Nope. The slots are fully backwards compatible but Skylake boards are 3.0 anyway.
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Nope. The slots are fully backwards compatible but Skylake boards are 3.0 anyway.
The GTX 770 is only 3.0 http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-770/specifications
Either way it really means nothing from a compatibility standpoint. They are backwards compatible. Forward as well.
Thanks,another question
a PC with i5 6500 and 8GB ddr4 with psu 600w
Will it support with this card?
Because it has 2X 8 pin power port.
CPU and Memory wise it will support it.
And a PSU with 600W is enough for that graphics card but you should see if your PSU has 2 per 8 pin connectros as you stated. If it doesn't you will need to buy an adapter or a new PSU if you want to use it in future rigs.
Only thing that matters here is if the PSU has 2 8 pin connectors. 600W is more than you would need for a 1080 and and on overclocked i7.
what does the VER : 3.1 mean?
Likely just the hardware revision. Devices get tweaked all the time during manufacturing to reduce cost or increase output.
someone wants you to buy a new GPU, through them naturally
both planet coaster and cities skyline will suck your CPU and GPU dry with huge maps no matter what's thrown at it so it's all down to your budget. An i7 will give more legs to your pc, but both amd and intel have new products coming very soon
WhiskeyDiver
Member
Plz help GAF. I'm having trouble picking out a new case.
First option - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9UC2YW/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Main reason I'm looking at it - It comes with 3 fans in the front and a rear exhaust. That means I can divert the 4 fans I have in my current tower to other devices in my household. Aesthetically, I like the look of the tower, but that's just me. Not everyone is going to like the look.
Second option - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FG9XS5I/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Main reason I'm looking at it - I'll be honest. I love the look of it. There's not much more to it than that. I'm just not sure how many fans it comes with. It says it comes with a rear exhaust fan only, but I'm not sure. Maybe the wording is confusing me.
Third and final option - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF9KXA/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Main reason(s) I'm looking at it- Comes with 4 fans, looks dead sexy, and has plenty of room for more drives as I need them. This is the only full tower ATX case I'm looking at possibly getting.
I can't decide. Any help would be appreciated.
First option - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9UC2YW/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Main reason I'm looking at it - It comes with 3 fans in the front and a rear exhaust. That means I can divert the 4 fans I have in my current tower to other devices in my household. Aesthetically, I like the look of the tower, but that's just me. Not everyone is going to like the look.
Second option - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FG9XS5I/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Main reason I'm looking at it - I'll be honest. I love the look of it. There's not much more to it than that. I'm just not sure how many fans it comes with. It says it comes with a rear exhaust fan only, but I'm not sure. Maybe the wording is confusing me.
Third and final option - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF9KXA/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Main reason(s) I'm looking at it- Comes with 4 fans, looks dead sexy, and has plenty of room for more drives as I need them. This is the only full tower ATX case I'm looking at possibly getting.
I can't decide. Any help would be appreciated.
Regginator
Member
Hi peeps, I hope you can help me. I want to replace the RAM in my father's PC. He has a Core i3 2130, a GTX 550 Ti and just 4GB of 1066 MHz RAM. I think the RAM is kinda bottlenecking him, a lot of times it's hugging the 4GB ceiling and it causes some slowdowns. I was thinking of putting my own 8GB 1600MHz in there, and then buy a new 16GB 2400MHz DDR4 for myself. But I have one question:
He has an MSI H61MP23 B3 motherboard (2 DIMM slots), and the Intel site says:
But seeing as how he has a Core i3 2310 (Sandy Bridge), that should mean 1600 MHz is not supported on his motherboard. But... am I right to assume it'll simply down-clock the memory speed from 1600 MHz to whatever his motherboard can handle (in this case 1333 MHz), or will it simply not work at all?
He has an MSI H61MP23 B3 motherboard (2 DIMM slots), and the Intel site says:
But seeing as how he has a Core i3 2310 (Sandy Bridge), that should mean 1600 MHz is not supported on his motherboard. But... am I right to assume it'll simply down-clock the memory speed from 1600 MHz to whatever his motherboard can handle (in this case 1333 MHz), or will it simply not work at all?
It would either downclock or not work at all. But downclock is the most likely.
However. If you are giving him ddr 3 from your computer. You'd need to get ddr3 to replace it. DDR4 wont work in a ddr3 system.
Orangepeel
Member
Question. I know this isn't a particularly strong setup I've got here but ehhhh
AMD A10 6400k
Gigabyte GA-F2A88X-D3H ATX FM2+ Motherboard
Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
GTX 770
I'm trying to play battlefield 1 on conquest but every time I get in there the game crashes with a "we ran outa memory" message
Should I upgrade RAM OR my video card?
I've been eyeing the RX 480 ($200 ish) or some ram (2x8gb) for $150 ish?
AMD A10 6400k
Gigabyte GA-F2A88X-D3H ATX FM2+ Motherboard
Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
GTX 770
I'm trying to play battlefield 1 on conquest but every time I get in there the game crashes with a "we ran outa memory" message
Should I upgrade RAM OR my video card?
I've been eyeing the RX 480 ($200 ish) or some ram (2x8gb) for $150 ish?
Regginator
Member
Yes, my current memory is DDR3 (8GB 1600 MHz), which is the one I was planning on replacing it with.
As for whether or not it'll downclock automatically, is there a way for me to find out for sure? Or should I just stick it in and hope for the best? I don't want to brick my old man's computer, lol.
It'll just work if it'll just work.
Ok good about your system. You mentioned specificallly getting ddr4 so making sure you know it won't work.
DarkChronic
Member
Got my new 750W PSU as a Christmas gift. Now I gotta youtube how to plug that baby back in, because the last time I did all this was in 2011.
Worried that my fried old PSU took out other parts with it. Guess we'll find out soon enough.
I think if everything else is wiped, I'll sit out for a year and wait for the next major CPU/GPU upgrade to come out.
Worried that my fried old PSU took out other parts with it. Guess we'll find out soon enough.
I think if everything else is wiped, I'll sit out for a year and wait for the next major CPU/GPU upgrade to come out.
Thermaltake - Tacky cheap plastic. Will look and feel cheap in person.
Silverstone is much better quality and won't look as tacky.
You don't need so many fans, even 2 fans are enough, 3 if you want negative/positive pressure.
Have a look at Fractal Design, NZXT, Phanteks and Corsair too.
The more curves/crevices and inverted corners the more disgusting it'll look in 3 months when you can't clean the dust from these spots.
Turning attention to storage, I'm curious what others think here. I have an old Intel 530 SSD @ 240GB as my OS drive, an even older 120GB OCZ Vertex 3 that I use for some games, and a 500GB SATA drive that has most of my data. So you can see case space and cabling is a little messy at the moment.
I'm about to pull the trigger on a CPU/RAM/mobo upgrade, but the SSD has been harder to decide. My new motherboard will have an M.2 slot which seems really attractive from a space perspective. The Samsung NVMe options look awesome, but so damn expensive. For half the price, I can get an equivalent sized Intel 600p - but then it looks like performance takes a severe hit. Doesn't seem like there's much middle ground at the moment.
I'd like to upgrade to at least a 500GB SSD so I can retire that OCZ drive. Is the 600p worth it despite the relative poor performance? ($150 for 512GB is such a great price point....) Or best to just live with my current setup until prices come down or better options are released?
I'm about to pull the trigger on a CPU/RAM/mobo upgrade, but the SSD has been harder to decide. My new motherboard will have an M.2 slot which seems really attractive from a space perspective. The Samsung NVMe options look awesome, but so damn expensive. For half the price, I can get an equivalent sized Intel 600p - but then it looks like performance takes a severe hit. Doesn't seem like there's much middle ground at the moment.
I'd like to upgrade to at least a 500GB SSD so I can retire that OCZ drive. Is the 600p worth it despite the relative poor performance? ($150 for 512GB is such a great price point....) Or best to just live with my current setup until prices come down or better options are released?
Who is this person because I would not be getting any more advice from him/her let alone paying them for anything.
All modern GPUs will be compatible with modern motherboards. It has nothing to do with system RAM. And when I say modern I mean last 10 years atleast.
The CPU socket 1150 is Haswell which only supports DDR3 memory. This is independent to GPU choice.
Buying an SSD is like arguing between a Ferrari and a Lamborghini, you aren't going to notice anything especially for just the OS/Games. The 600P is more than enough.
It won't be quad channel, just 2 sets of dual channel.
With a rig like this you won't notice a difference dropping to 1333mhz, but really you should be able to find 1600mhz for very similar price nowadays.
The ram would not run at 1600mhz by default. It'll run at the currently configured memory speed or the lowest speed supported by existing ram modules. To run at 1600mhz you would have to go into the bios and force it, or enable the XMP profile.
So by default it'll just work at the speed configured or the default speed of 1067Mhz, until you set it to run faster - if you want.
At that price it's probably used. RAM prices are stupid in Canada. Easily have doubled in the last 4 months. Should have upgraded to 16gig when I had the chance. Went from $80 to $150.
Oh yeh good point ddr3 is entering that awful time where prices start to bloat as production stops I guess.
Reposting this fromorning VR thread.
I recently got this gaming laptop that's equipped with a 1070 and an i7 6700k HQ.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1INYD0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I got it since I need a workhorse for coding and development that I could take on the go. I got it for a good price at MicroCenter.
I decided to try out the Rift with Elite
angerous on this thing and it runs it smoothly on high settings! It's amazing to me that laptops can now run demanding VR games such as Elite really well. It's mindblowing really.
I recently got this gaming laptop that's equipped with a 1070 and an i7 6700k HQ.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1INYD0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I got it since I need a workhorse for coding and development that I could take on the go. I got it for a good price at MicroCenter.
I decided to try out the Rift with Elite
angerous on this thing and it runs it smoothly on high settings! It's amazing to me that laptops can now run demanding VR games such as Elite really well. It's mindblowing really.Reposting this fromorning VR thread.
I recently got this gaming laptop that's equipped with a 1070 and an i7 6700k HQ.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1INYD0/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I got it since I need a workhorse for coding and development that I could take on the go. I got it for a good price at MicroCenter.
I decided to try out the Rift with Elite
The CPU itself is just a downclocked desktop 6700k - so quite the beast, it'll probably match a desktop 3770k.
And since GPU TDPs dropped (desktop 1070 is 150W), the laptops really can get close to desktop performance now. It's the same story with the CPU. Very good stuff.
On the 1070
JonnyDBrit
Member
Well, Battlefield 1's minimum spec is 8 GB of RAM, versus a GTX 660 GPU. Especially since you've got separate sticks, I'd imagine you're probably pushing it to the max. So your short term solution should be to get more RAM. That said, I would also suspect possible issues with the CPU (whether its an A6-6400k or an A10-6800k), as it would be a fair bit below the game's suggested minimum spec.
the 600p is a middle, absurdly fast, ground to the full out enterprise NVMe drives and sata3 based stuff, also make sure your motherboard supports NVMe drives and not only sata
Laptop crapped out on me and i've deceided to build a PC for the 1st time. Looking at the following parts for the build, but not sure if overkill on some parts or if cheaper alternatives will work just a effectively or better. Primarily going to be used for Gaming and the usual browsing. Want something that can last long term. Only looked into Overclocking a little but not something i'll look to do straight away and maybe will look at it in the future. Any feedback is appreciated!
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CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£315.95 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£29.98 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£129.95 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£89 @ Amazon Uk)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£144.28 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£66.00 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card (£399.93 @ Amazon UK)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (£54.95 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£66.38 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (£85)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card (£23.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1409.
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CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£315.95 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£29.98 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (£129.95 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£89 @ Amazon Uk)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£144.28 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£66.00 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card (£399.93 @ Amazon UK)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (£54.95 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£66.38 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (£85)
Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card (£23.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1409.
Evolution of Metal
Member
Thanks
Consider mini ITX, no need for ATX these days.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£289.98 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£29.98 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (£119.99 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£87.50 @ Aria PC)
Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£119.62 @ CCL Computers)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£35.94 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB STRIX Video Card (£402.99 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case (£49.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£80.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1216.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-28 01:05 GMT+0000
First time build question:
Trying to assemble a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo on my msi b150m pro vdh motherboard. Screw's out of place for the mount and will need to go in the furthest hole to actually fit. How do you get the thing out?
http://imgur.com/a/lniAn
Trying to assemble a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo on my msi b150m pro vdh motherboard. Screw's out of place for the mount and will need to go in the furthest hole to actually fit. How do you get the thing out?
http://imgur.com/a/lniAn
I beleive you need to pull the screw upwards and that should allow it to shift holes.
let me chime in and say that motherboard out of the box does not handle overclock/video encoding testing loads well at all, no heat spreaders on the voltage regulators to my knowledge
Fair enough, personally I've gone off gigabyte, doesn't OC the best nor as stable as Asus. I have the Asus Z170I and it's one of the best boards I've owned, right behind the X79 Rampage Gene IV that I had.
The Asus boards sometimes have cash back which make them the same price as the gigabyte "equivalent".
Thanks for this. Definitely some cheaper alternatives here i'll look at. Just curious as to why the Video Card change?
yeah, the board itself has worse OC options than my mATX ASRock board I got for my 2500K
a bigger heatsink means higher time at boost clock. anyways, swapped the motherboard with one that should be more OC friendly, also consider a gander at the intel 600p NVMe SSDs. those things are wicked fast for slightly higher price than sata based ones (but also need win10 or patched win7 disk to be a boot drive)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (£289.98 @ Aria PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler (£29.98 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (£144.99 @ Ebuyer)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (£87.50 @ Aria PC)
Storage: Crucial MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£119.62 @ CCL Computers)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£35.94 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB STRIX Video Card (£402.99 @ Ebuyer)
Case: Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case (£49.99 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£80.99 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1241.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-28 01:50 GMT+0000
If you can fit the Palit or Zotac 3 slot card, then I'd actually get those since they'll run quieter and cooler thus higher sustained boost clocks.
Gigabyte runs a bit louder, no massive differences.
Hey guys, building a PC for the first time. Went with the following build based off a build guide on pcpartpicker. How's it look?
Graphics: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1 Gaming Graphics Card - 399.99 (NO TAX!)
Mobo: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 LGA 1151 ATX Intel Motherboard - $129.99, minus a $20 mail in rebate
Processor: Intel Core i5-6600K SkyLake 3.5GHz 1151 - $189.99
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB - $169.95
PSU: SeaSonic SSR-650RM 650W ATX12V - $69.99, minus a $15 mail in rebate
RAM: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 - $69.99
Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H100i V2 - $99.99, minus a $10 mail in rebate
Case: Corsair Carbide Clear 400C Mid-Tower Case (White) - $91.72 (NO TAX!)
Windows 10 - $84 from a new third party Amazon seller with no feedback (lol)
Total with tax and minus rebates comes out to about $1340.
Graphics: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1 Gaming Graphics Card - 399.99 (NO TAX!)
Mobo: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 LGA 1151 ATX Intel Motherboard - $129.99, minus a $20 mail in rebate
Processor: Intel Core i5-6600K SkyLake 3.5GHz 1151 - $189.99
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB - $169.95
PSU: SeaSonic SSR-650RM 650W ATX12V - $69.99, minus a $15 mail in rebate
RAM: Avexir Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 - $69.99
Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series H100i V2 - $99.99, minus a $10 mail in rebate
Case: Corsair Carbide Clear 400C Mid-Tower Case (White) - $91.72 (NO TAX!)
Windows 10 - $84 from a new third party Amazon seller with no feedback (lol)
Total with tax and minus rebates comes out to about $1340.
Orangepeel
Member
Woa woa woa, I'm a bit confused about ram I guess.
You said I have separate sticks? I'm sure the 2x4 that I have are the same though.
I read that battlefield utilizes dual channeled ram specifically so I'm assuming this means I should theoretically see better performance with 2x8 gig sticks vs 4x4 gigs... right?
I do have a question about my CPU... originally this computer was meant to be JUST an HTPC for netflix, rentals, kids to play pbskids.com ya get it? Then I was all, shit, why don't I just throw in a decent card and play some cool games while I'm at it. So yeah my CPU sorta sucks for games I know. But I don't think I can just upgrade my CPU to anything I want, I'm held back now by my motherboard so blah. At least I think it's a blah situation, maybe I need to look into this some more.
CreepingFear
Member
Samsung's Magician Software and Crystal Disk Mark Info should help you see the condition and benchmark the speeds. Make sure you enable Rapid Mode with the Samsung Magician Software. Congrats on that 960 Evo. I just ordered the 1TB version myself. Combined Christmas present from my mom and from myself ha ha.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Separate as in physically so. You have two separate sticks of 4GB RAM, rather than one stick of 8 GB RAM. Apologies for the phrasing, I didn't mean separate brands or the like.
And unfortunately yeah, your CPU choices are determined by your motherboard, so you'd have to swap that out, which in turn raises the question of what to replace it with. Of course, the major CPU providers have got new architectures lined up for next year, so that could affect pricing.
Aside from the previously mentioned Samsung Magician, make sure you get and install the specific Samsung NVMe Driver. (Look for the Driver section.) That'll make sure you're getting all the oomph out of that M.2 drive that you're supposed to.
Orangepeel
Member
Well thanks for the replies, I think you convinced me to go with ram then for right now. Now I've just gota find some that isn't damned expensive.
looks good, but maybe ebay would have more legit keys than amazon for windows
Guess I'll do this, wow. Is there any reason I wouldn't want Pro over the regular home edition?
For real? This might be my life preserver tomorrow. Play-asia?
I've imported games from them but OS keys? Weird.
edit: okay. this is oem and won't transfer. That the catch? Still seem too good to be true. May use when I cobble back together this crap I'm replacing.
I hope my re-activation works. I'll let y'all know how it goes.
Working on a plan.
edit again: plan - looking for feedback.
Going to throw existing sata ssd(OS) into new mobo/proc setup
Clean install win10 and bypass keys
Login to MS account and do new hardware thing.
If that works shut down and put nvme drive and try to install win10 on that.
That borks out buy a fucking windows key ~ from playasia?!
Any holes in that? Holler PC GAF
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