JonnyDBrit
Member
A 270 with a kabylake CPU will also let you stream stuff like Netflix in 4K, as a minor bonus. Intel has a weird DRM thing locked in.
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A 270 with a kabylake CPU will also let you stream stuff like Netflix in 4K, as a minor bonus. Intel has a weird DRM thing locked in.
And by buying kabylake we tell Intel its fine to lock stuff like that to cpu they want and leave rest out.
They will keep doing it and leave other features out too to sell new cpu:s.
ColonialRaptor
Member
I doubt the internet in Australia is fast enough to handle that anyway so as a bonus it's great but probably irrelevant. This DRM thing I'm interested in... reading now.
Edit1 : It will work with Windows 8 though right?
Edit 2 : Ahhh it has to do with streaming, I see. Doesn't matter to me they're not going to be recording anything anyway. Weird now that I'm reading about the kabylake I don't know why Intel bothered it's not smaller or a new architecture. We've hit the ceiling on CPU gains here IMO. My CPU is almost 7 years old and still holds its own on all modern games
I thought the same after comparing some SkyLake/KabyLake i5 specs. The only real difference was 0.1GHz extra speed.
Anyone with an Asus Z270 board has checked the temperatures on a monitoring program?
I tried HWMonitor and everything was super cool , except it said the mainboard was over 100º celsius. Checked the bios and everything is within normal parameters or lower. The case is cold as fuck and i feel no heat coming from the motherboard itself. Is it just the program going insane? Should i be worried?
I tried HWMonitor and everything was super cool , except it said the mainboard was over 100º celsius. Checked the bios and everything is within normal parameters or lower. The case is cold as fuck and i feel no heat coming from the motherboard itself. Is it just the program going insane? Should i be worried?
lostsupper
Banned
Stop using HWMonitor. HWiNFO64 gives accurate readings.
that's a huge bummer considering it's not really a CPU limitation on high end CPUs, my 2500K @ 4.1 Ghz could play 4K youtube
Nyteshade517
Member
it's possible I could save some money on certain parts to be able to afford a 256GB Samsung 850 PRO SSD (not actively pursuing that but it's an option)
If I do that would it be better to run the OS on that or an Intel 600p M.2?
If I do that would it be better to run the OS on that or an Intel 600p M.2?
Celcius
°Temp. member
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...=1&cm_re=seasonic_gold-_-17-151-119-_-Product
$70, semi-modular, 80+ gold efficient, 550 watt, Seasonic brand, quiet, 5 year warranty.
https://seasonic.com/product/g-550/
If you feel like splurging: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...121&cm_re=seasonic_660-_-17-151-121-_-Product
$120, 660 watt, fully modular, Seasonic brand, 80+ platinum efficient, fan completely turns off at low loads and runs silent for longer because it's higher wattage. Also, the additional wattage will give you room to grow in the future if you upgrade something like a video card.
Speedwagon
Michelangelo painted the Sistine Chapel. Yabuki turned off voice chat in Mario Kart races. True artists of their time.
DJ_Lae
Member
Finally done the new build - it starts up fine, although I'm going to leave the Windows install and everything else (transferring hard drives and such) until tomorrow as it's just too late.
I spent more time with cable management than last time, although I wasn't able to get any satisfactory fix to the snakes nest beside the power supply. Maybe there is no good way around it.
Also, the photo was taken before I realized I forgot the USB cable to the H100i...which completely ruins the aesthetic. I don't know how I'll route that thing around without it looking hideous.
I spent more time with cable management than last time, although I wasn't able to get any satisfactory fix to the snakes nest beside the power supply. Maybe there is no good way around it.
Also, the photo was taken before I realized I forgot the USB cable to the H100i...which completely ruins the aesthetic. I don't know how I'll route that thing around without it looking hideous.
Aztechnology
Member
Save yourself some more money.
Reference 480 8GB $175.
https://slickdeals.net/f/9674500-vi...promo-email?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1
or XFX RS 8GB $209.99
https://slickdeals.net/f/9680096-xf...-newegg-com?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1
Seriously, I really took the availability and cheapness of PC parts in the US for granted, now that I'm in Germany.... :c
Wow. Thank you!
I completely forgot about the existence of mail-in rebates until I decided to build a PC. What is up with that? Why is this still common practice in the PC world? Not that I'm complaining about saving money.
TatteredHat
Member
I'm looking to spend about 2200 euros on something that I see popping up in this thread for around $1600.
RIP Europe.Aztechnology
Member
I hate it as well. Even without the MIR it's cheaper though. Essentially they just figure people won't do it. It's not on Newegg or anything, it's the manufacturers.
Hesemonni
Banned
The OS gains tend to plateau at certain point with SSDs. Samsung PROs are excellent SSDs, but look at Crucial mx300s, Samsung EVOs and the likes too. It's hard to go wrong with these.
Necro900
Member
Hi guys, I'm building a mini-itx pc for the living room which will function as a modest gaming platform and media center, and I'm still unsure about the power supply.
I'd like to keep the energy footprint down, as in I'm not going to overclock anything or do crazy stuff with it, so a "good enough to power the rig properly" power supply would be fine.
These are the specs I've come up with:
Case: Thermaltake Core V1
Mobo: Asrock H170M-ITX/DL
Ram: HyperX FURY 8GB 2133MHz DDR4
VGA: Zotac GTX 1060 Mini 3GB (or 6GB, will decide)
HDD: WD 1 TB 7200 rpm
CPU: Core i5-6500 3.2 GHz
What am I looking at? 500W? 550W? Less?
Also, what brand?
Thanks
I'd like to keep the energy footprint down, as in I'm not going to overclock anything or do crazy stuff with it, so a "good enough to power the rig properly" power supply would be fine.
These are the specs I've come up with:
Case: Thermaltake Core V1
Mobo: Asrock H170M-ITX/DL
Ram: HyperX FURY 8GB 2133MHz DDR4
VGA: Zotac GTX 1060 Mini 3GB (or 6GB, will decide)
HDD: WD 1 TB 7200 rpm
CPU: Core i5-6500 3.2 GHz
What am I looking at? 500W? 550W? Less?
Also, what brand?
Thanks
lordfuzzybutt
Member
Hi guys, I'm building a mini-itx pc for the living room which will function as a modest gaming platform and media center, and I'm still unsure about the power supply.
I'd like to keep the energy footprint down, as in I'm not going to overclock anything or do crazy stuff with it, so a "good enough to power the rig properly" power supply would be fine.
These are the specs I've come up with:
Case: Thermaltake Core V1
Mobo: Asrock H170M-ITX/DL
Ram: HyperX FURY 8GB 2133MHz DDR4
VGA: Zotac GTX 1060 Mini 3GB (or 6GB, will decide)
HDD: WD 1 TB 7200 rpm
CPU: Core i5-6500 3.2 GHz
What am I looking at? 500W? 550W? Less?
Also, what brand?
Thanks
450W is enough.
Brands:
Seasonic is one of, if not the best.
XFX's PSUs are also designed and manufactured by Seasonic.
Go with either one of those for the best bet, just take the cheaper.
dancrane212
Member
Mulling over upgrading my PC for Halo Wars 2. Where my last upgrade was 2012 I was hoping that the lower-tier and priced CPG/GPUs from today would push (if such a CPU would even be supported by my motherboard) me over the edge without needing to replace my motherboard or spring for a higher watt PSU.
MB8H61-M (Supported CPUs)
CPU: AMD PHENOM II X6 1045T PROCESSOR
GPU: MSI Radeon HD 7770 1000MHZ 1GB 4.5GHZ GDDR5
Any suggestions?
MB
8H61-M (Supported CPUs)CPU: AMD PHENOM II X6 1045T PROCESSOR
GPU: MSI Radeon HD 7770 1000MHZ 1GB 4.5GHZ GDDR5
Any suggestions?
JonnyDBrit
Member
Mulling over upgrading my PC for Halo Wars 2. Where my last upgrade was 2012 I was hoping that the lower-tier and priced CPG/GPUs from today would push (if such a CPU would even be supported by my motherboard) me over the edge without needing to replace my motherboard or spring for a higher watt PSU.
MB
CPU: AMD PHENOM II X6 1045T PROCESSOR
GPU: MSI Radeon HD 7770 1000MHZ 1GB 4.5GHZ GDDR5
Any suggestions?
...Wait, how are you running that CPU off that motherboard? The site you linked doesn't list it being compatible.
Otherwise, you are probably gonna have to go for an overhaul in general.
dancrane212
Member
Whoops, grabbed the wrong processor from my spreadsheet. Should be a 960T though that's not on the sheet either.
Good to know about about needing an overhaul though; I'll just stick with the XB1 version for the time being then.
Hey guys was wondering if you knew what is going on here.
So I have an i7 6700K running on stock 4.0 (4.2 turbo) at 1.25 (manually adjusted read why)
I also have 16 (2x8) GB of 3200mHz Corsair LPX DDR4 RAM with the XMP enabled on the motherboard.
The motherboard being an ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming.
I can't seem to get the i7 to OC at all, not even a .1 uptick to 4.3 gHz. Additionally I had to manually set the CPU Voltage to 1.25 since if I left it on auto it would shoot up to 1.4X which is scarily high. I tried multiple configs of 4.3/4.4/4.5 from voltages ranging from 1.25 to 1.40 and every time without fail the system bluescreens when I run an AIDA64 stress test. The temps shoot up almost instantly (from an idle 26-32 degrees celcius) to 80+.
Obviously something is wrong, and this chip should be able to sustain at least a minor overclock no?
So I have an i7 6700K running on stock 4.0 (4.2 turbo) at 1.25 (manually adjusted read why)
I also have 16 (2x8) GB of 3200mHz Corsair LPX DDR4 RAM with the XMP enabled on the motherboard.
The motherboard being an ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming.
I can't seem to get the i7 to OC at all, not even a .1 uptick to 4.3 gHz. Additionally I had to manually set the CPU Voltage to 1.25 since if I left it on auto it would shoot up to 1.4X which is scarily high. I tried multiple configs of 4.3/4.4/4.5 from voltages ranging from 1.25 to 1.40 and every time without fail the system bluescreens when I run an AIDA64 stress test. The temps shoot up almost instantly (from an idle 26-32 degrees celcius) to 80+.
Obviously something is wrong, and this chip should be able to sustain at least a minor overclock no?
I've been out of the loop for so long, but mulling over some parts upgrading for this year.
What's the issue with Kaby Lake? Is it not recommended to go down that route? I was just going to go with the latest gen I must admit, but is it recommended to stick with the 6th gen?
What's the issue with Kaby Lake? Is it not recommended to go down that route? I was just going to go with the latest gen I must admit, but is it recommended to stick with the 6th gen?
opticalmace
Member
Get Kaby Lake. No point in not doing so now (unless you get an insane deal on the older parts).
Bought a PC from newegg prebuilt since I figured I could just buy better parts later when I have more money.
Anything I should focus on replacing?
https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16883230165/specs
Anything I should focus on replacing?
https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16883230165/specs
OriginofHysteria
Banned
Depends, what settings do you want to game at (if you want to game at all)
I'm fine with medium settings.
OriginofHysteria
Banned
1050ti should be fine at medium settings at 1080p.
YuriLowell
Member
So I am thinking about going with this motherboard for my next build.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157746&cm_re=z270-_-13-157-746-_-Product
Seems like all these other boards are just charging like an $70 for some stupid RGB lighting that I don't care about.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157746&cm_re=z270-_-13-157-746-_-Product
Seems like all these other boards are just charging like an $70 for some stupid RGB lighting that I don't care about.
Amd 8320 Release Date : November 2012.
Bloodember
Member
Is your heatsink seated properly? Is the bios up to date?
lostsupper
Banned
You chip CAN sustain a minor overclock if you don't starve it of voltage. Who told you 1.4v is "scary?" You literally don't know what you're doing. Start here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1570313/skylake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics
If you find terms you don't understand, take the time to learn them.
So I should just replace the processor then?
JonnyDBrit
Member
That would require replacing the motherboard then. At that stage you're gutting most of the machine.
Yes and yes.
I had read up on it previously and most places I found to advise not pushing the voltage past 1.4. And what would you consider a "minor" overclock?
Is there really no easy way to do it? This was all I could afford.
opticalmace
Member
What cooler are you using? What temps do you get when not overclocking at load? What technique did you use to apply thermal paste? I don't use AIDA64 but maybe also try another benchmark (some are harder on your system than others).
As an aside, when you're testing the CPU for OC'ing you should drop your ram back down for now (say to default 2133 mhz). Then if you get a stable CPU overclock tune the ram back up and see if you need to give up a bit on the CPU for overall stability.
JonnyDBrit
Member
It's an issue of limited options. Above the 8320 you've got the 8350, 8370, and 9590. The first two would be mostly incremental from what you have, while the latter is a power hog that needs liquid cooling to run. There's nothing else on that socket type and there never will be, as AMD are preparing to launch Ryzen, which is AM4 instead of AM3.
That said, the 8320 isn't exactly terrible for current games - especially as you're aiming for medium settings. What you can also do, if you're up for it, is overclock it to get a little extra processing power out of it.
I will say, I had and have the same issue. Bought an FX-6350 because it was fairly affordable for my first build, but soon realised how limited it was. Slowly taking steps to rectify it, but it's not exactly a difficult area to misstep if not familiar with current CPU standards.
What cooler are you using?
Corsair H50, but I am upgrading it to an H60 next week.
What temps do you get when not overclocking at load?
Between 45-55 or so on load. 20-30 Idle.
What technique did you use to apply thermal paste?
I just pressed a tiny bit onto the center of the CPU plate. Using Artic Silver 5.
Are the voltage increases across CPU and RAM both added, leading to more heat and strain? Should I not be using the XMP profile?
Would you suggest returning what I bought and getting a different computer or sticking it out?
opticalmace
Member
I would imagine the H50 and H60 are probably quite similar, so I doubt it would be worth the bother.
LilJoka and others can chime in better about OC stability, but there's definitely more strain when you're overclocking both ram and cpu.
At stock your cpu is 4 ghz (all cores) and 4.2 ghz (one core), if I'm not mistaken. How about a small OC first, to say 4.2 ghz (all cores). And turn off XMP just for now for testing. I would run a fixed vcore for now just to determine stability.
lostsupper
Banned
100MHz is the smallest basic increment of overclock available. I have never heard of a Skylake chip that couldn't hit 4.5GHz. Intel's Skylake spec sheet lists max voltage at 1.52v. Most motherboard manufacturers list 1.45v as the max safe 24/7 voltage for Skylake.
Again, if you don't understand why you can't achieve a stable 4.3GHz on Skylake while limiting its supplied voltage to 1.25v you're missing a basic concept of overclocking.
The H50 I have is a few years old, and I got the H60 for next to nothing so I figured I might as well switch it out even if it is a minimal difference.
If I bump it up to 4.2 (which is a single core turbo boost) should I turn off Intel Speedstep (which is driving the boost?) to essentially elimated any sort of "turbo boost" in favour of simply having a higher clock at all times?
I think I may have explained poorly. I know I cannot overclock on a limited voltage like 1.25.
What I was saying was that after applying my XMP profile to my RAM, the CPU voltage (which was still set to auto since I hadn't tried OCing it yet) was at 1.41 or 1.42 or something which was causing it to BSOD, so I manually changed the voltage to 1.25 and ran a stress test on stock clocks with XMP enabled for the RAM and it was stable. However if I try to push PAST stock clocks (while raising the voltage from 1.25!) I seem to get BSOD even at minimal OC such as 4.4 @ 1.35 or so
JonnyDBrit
Member
Well, you mentioned it partly being a matter of what you could afford. And actually looking at the price you paid for it...
If you can return it and get the refund, do so, and get this, if you want a prebuilt machine. Put in the code HVR150 at checkout, and it'll cost $649.99 (before taxes).
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