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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Vipu

Banned
So... my G402 mouse is experiencing the dreaded double-click issue after a little more than a year. Anyone have any suggestions for a replacement that will actually last for more than a year? I used to have a few of the Microsoft Bluetrack mice, but they didn't last long either.

edit: Use-case is both gaming and work, but I suspect that most of the wear is from gaming...

G403 wireless
 
Aright GAF, build has been completed!

Items have arrived...

fl7YZqm.jpg

Case has arrived (Dark Base Pro 900):


Ginormous CPU Cooler in place! (PS. Noctua is legit, this thing is the shit):


Mobo in place!


We've got a POST!!!


I've got POST and GPU's in :)


Here's the final product:


This is one of the best moments of my life. My previous build worked well but was half assed, this build was all love.
 

clashfan

Member
Aright GAF, build has been completed!

Items have arrived...



Case has arrived (Dark Base Pro 900):



Ginormous CPU Cooler in place! (PS. Noctua is legit, this thing is the shit):



Mobo in place!



We've got a POST!!!



I've got POST and GPU's in :)



Here's the final product:



This is one of the best moments of my life. My previous build worked well but was half assed, this build was all love.


Congrats on the build. I'm new to pc building so if this sounds dumb I'm sorry but the psu fan faces the inside of the case. Is this the correct orientation?
 
I had to end up stopping windows 10 updates ( in services chose 'disable').
Video of how to do it. https://youtu.be/iIMGJtwtc38
I haven't run into any problems, but would recommend doing some research on it before disabling it.
Why? because my system downloads the ' anniversary update', but during the long process of preparing for the installation and then the install process, it always freezes up. So from keeping it from automatically downloading it again and attempting to install it which takes a long time , (which it has already done again) I decided to disable it.

So that means I can't download anything, or games that require the windows 10 anniversary patch on the win 10 store. Nothing to worry about because I wouldn't want to download anything from there anyway!
 
Congrats on the build. I'm new to pc building so if this sounds dumb I'm sorry but the psu fan faces the inside of the case. Is this the correct orientation?

Thanks! PSU Facing up was the best orientation for my build strictly because it was using air inside of the case to cool the PSU. If I faced it upside down then it would grab air from the floor to coo the PSU and not ideal.
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Depends what the bsod error code was, it's possible but it's more likely the OC.
What did you use to test for stability?
What is the CPU clock speed?
Are you using manual or adaptive vcore?
What LLC level?
Is the ram running over 2133mhz?

I think the code was IRQL not less or equal.

The cpu is at 4.5GHz and I used a mix of Prime95, Aida64, x264, Time Spy. Prime95 for an hour and Aida64 about an hour too. Games I've been playing are Doom, Overwatch, Diablo 3, The Division, GTA V, Rocket League, Elder Scrolls Online, Watch Dogs 2. Again it crashed while playing Rocket League so wasn't really being pushed hard.

Well I set the cpu voltage manually to 1.335V but it adjusts dynamically based on load and isn't running constantly. Same goes for the clock speed. My motherboards LLC only has auto and mode 1 options. I have it at auto. I think it's working because despite locking voltage to 1.335V i was seeing voltage of 1.344 being applied under full load. Now it is locked at 1.34V and can go to 1.352 under load. I am seeing this in CPU-z

My ram is running at 2666 with 1.2V
 

OkayRene

Member
Hypothetically if you were forced to play a game at 1080 on a 1440 monitor, it would look worse then if you had played it on a 1080 monitor of the same size, right?
 

cwistofu

Member
Does anyone have any experience with the Acer Predator XB241H? I'm looking to get a monitor for my 1070 and this seems like the cheapest option available to gsync.

It's only 1080p but I'm honestly fine with that. I'd rather run games at max settings at 1080p than lowering settings for 1440p.

For $400, is this a good monitor? Or am I better served getting a 1440p 144hz without gsync?

I ended up ordering this monitor. A couple questions:

- How does Gsync work with vsync? I enable Gsync in the monitor and turn off Vsync in all my games?

- How does 144Hz work with games that are limited to 30/60fps options?
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
The demand for Samsung 960 Pro ssd's is unreal. The thing launched back in October and you STILL can't get one in stock at amazon, newegg, or samsung.com. I've been building PC's since 2004 and don't ever remember a PC component being so hard to get your hands on that wasn't limited edition or something.
 

Skel1ingt0n

I can't *believe* these lazy developers keep making file sizes so damn large. Btw, how does technology work?
So... my G402 mouse is experiencing the dreaded double-click issue after a little more than a year. Anyone have any suggestions for a replacement that will actually last for more than a year? I used to have a few of the Microsoft Bluetrack mice, but they didn't last long either.

edit: Use-case is both gaming and work, but I suspect that most of the wear is from gaming...

The warranty should be 3 years - I got a replacement with little issue from Logi.
 

Arex

Member
So... my G402 mouse is experiencing the dreaded double-click issue after a little more than a year. Anyone have any suggestions for a replacement that will actually last for more than a year? I used to have a few of the Microsoft Bluetrack mice, but they didn't last long either.

edit: Use-case is both gaming and work, but I suspect that most of the wear is from gaming...

If you're not gonna return the G402 and you have time, you can try this method; I did it with my G602 and fixed the stuck/ double left clicking problem it had :) Putting back the spring took some time though lol

http://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-mouse-with-double-click-problem/
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Hypothetically if you were forced to play a game at 1080 on a 1440 monitor, it would look worse then if you had played it on a 1080 monitor of the same size, right?

Yes but I had this exact same question too and ended up buying a 25" 1440p monitor and set the resolution to 1080p just for curiousity and was surprised that it didn't look bad at all. I would have been completely happy to play at 1080p. Of course it looks better on a native 24" 1080p screen but i would say only very slightly.

I don't even think 1440p is a huge step up over 1080p though. Ended up going back to my 1080p monitor because the new 1440p had quality issues (dell u2515h). Games look pretty much the same to me but what I miss about the 25" 1440p screen is the larger screen size and resolution bump while using the desktop...for gaming i don't think it's a huge difference. Not worth paying £290 at least.

I will be just holding onto my 1080p screen and playing at that resolution with the odd downsampling. Next monitor I get will be a 4K screen.

Is a good quality 650w PSU enough these days running the latest hardware, such as i7, 1080/1070 and other components?

Yep thanks to the lower power consumption of pascal. I have an EVGA 750W G2 psu because i originally bought n i5-4590 and a R9 290 (TDP OF 300W) and planned on doing xfire but never did. Now i have an i7-6700K and a 1070 and 750W is just waaaaay too much even with it all overclocked. Could probably get away with a 500W psu. If you are doing some heavy overclocking then maybe 550W.

The difference in my power bill since upgrading my PC has been huge. Using way less. 750W is overkill but at least i know it won't struggle.
 

Rizific

Member
Thanks! PSU Facing up was the best orientation for my build strictly because it was using air inside of the case to cool the PSU. If I faced it upside down then it would grab air from the floor to coo the PSU and not ideal.
Wait, that case has a filter on the bottom for the psu fan that will allow you to face the fan side down. Orienting it like the way you have you are pulling hot air from the inside of your case through your psu. Putting your psu fan side down allows your psu to draw cool air from outside the case to cool your psu, the ideal situation.
 
i recently began getting random reboots on my computer when running games, i checked event viewer and all i'm getting is this error

task category: (63)
(70368744177664),(2)

i began getting random reboots last month and i switched power supplies and it worked fine for a while and now it is doing it again. any clues?

current specs
i7 3770k (running stock)
32gb 1600mhz ram
EVGA GTX 1070 sc
OS is running on a 120gb samsung 840 SSD
 

iamblades

Member
I was just about to ask about whether Seasonic is worth the price. Think it will be my next PSU after doing some research on it.

Seasonic is my go to brand. Current build has a seasonic snow silent, it's pretty sweet.

With the PSU fan turning off at less than 40% load, my PC is basically silent aside from the water pump at idle or just browsing the web.

My last PC has an XFX PSu that was Seasonic OEM as well.
 
So, I'm very likely to come into ownership of an i7-6700K soon. Would it be worth getting a Z270 board to go with that, and if so, what would people recommend? If not, then what would people recommend instead? I may do overclocking but it's not a priority, and live in the UK.

Reviving this question, as the CPU arrived today.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
I'm aware that on the modern Intel CPUs you can overclock the cpu core and cache separately... do you guys overclock the cpu with the cache at stock and then once you find a stable clock go back and repeat the process for the cache? (since the cache usually can't run 1:1 once overclocked) Or do you guys just leave the cache at stock? (I hear it makes a very small real-world difference?)

Also, do you guys still use Prime 95 or something else like Asus realbench to test for stability?
 

Kito

Member
I had to end up stopping windows 10 updates ( in services chose 'disable').
Video of how to do it. https://youtu.be/iIMGJtwtc38
I haven't run into any problems, but would recommend doing some research on it before disabling it.
Why? because my system downloads the ' anniversary update', but during the long process of preparing for the installation and then the install process, it always freezes up.

I've had updates, firewall and defender turned off for about a year now. They made my PC (iMac 2011 bootcamp) a slug; constantly using 90-100% of disk and memory.
 

DJ_Lae

Member
Man, the one thing that I remember reading about the R5 was that the included adapter for the motherboard standoffs was cheap, but people really weren't kidding. I almost stripped the top clean after only tightening two of them, and I was being gentle.

I do have a couple of questions, though - can anyone with a Corsair H100i confirm that the backplate is loose after its standoffs are installed? I've read varying reports, with some people saying it tightens up after you install the frontplate, others say it doesn't and had to resort to washers on the back.

I also gather the quietest place to install the H100 is on the front of the R5? It seems doable although I'd definitely have to shuffle the lower drive mount around and remove the larger one.
 

Draft

Member
Reviving this question, as the CPU arrived today.
I've been doing an enormous amount of research about 270 boards for the last couple days and I decided to get the MSI Z270 Carbon Gaming. It has plenty of good reviews, seems like a solid overclocker, I think it's rather attractive, and it is on the cheaper end of the enthusiast level price range. The Gigabyte Auros and ASUS ROG boards both also seem fine. I went MSI because I liked how it looked, I like the stuff I read about the overclocking, and because they brand their RGB solution "mystic light."

Speaking of which, just pulled the trigger:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($108.13 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z270 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($174.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($105.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($169.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($429.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT H440 (Glossy White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($93.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ B&H)
Total: $1421.57
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-17 12:37 EST-0500

I'm back, baby. I'm back in the world of high end PC hardware. This will be my first experience water cooling and I'm very excited.
 

OkayRene

Member
Yes but I had this exact same question too and ended up buying a 25" 1440p monitor and set the resolution to 1080p just for curiousity and was surprised that it didn't look bad at all. I would have been completely happy to play at 1080p. Of course it looks better on a native 24" 1080p screen but i would say only very slightly.

I don't even think 1440p is a huge step up over 1080p though. Ended up going back to my 1080p monitor because the new 1440p had quality issues (dell u2515h). Games look pretty much the same to me but what I miss about the 25" 1440p screen is the larger screen size and resolution bump while using the desktop...for gaming i don't think it's a huge difference. Not worth paying £290 at least.

I will be just holding onto my 1080p screen and playing at that resolution with the odd downsampling. Next monitor I get will be a 4K screen.

Thanks, it sounds like I can buy a 1440p with confidence. I was afraid gaming at 1440p would put too much burden on my 1070 and I'd be dropping down to 1080 often where it would look like crap. But it sounds like that's not the case.
 

Tabasco

Member
Can any of you guys recommend me a PC build with the following requirements?

Monitor (1080p 60 Hz), mouse, keyboard, OS (preferably Windows 10)
SSD for booting and few games, HDD for everything else
Can handle demanding games at reasonable framerates

Budget not too high, maybe $500-700?
 
So I just did something I normally wouldn't do and purchased a RX 480 on a whim. It's going to replace an r9 280x.

Can I pop and swap, or are there steps I need to take. I read it consumes less power, is that correct? Any weird driver stuff that needs to be uninstalled?
 

paskowitz

Member
Can any of you guys recommend me a PC build with the following requirements?

Monitor (1080p 60 Hz), mouse, keyboard, OS (preferably Windows 10)
SSD for booting and few games, HDD for everything else
Can handle demanding games at reasonable framerates

Budget not too high, maybe $500-700?

You want the monitor, mouse, keyboard and OS part of the total price?

Getting below $700 isn't easy. If you can stretch it, I would go for something like this...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($109.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus H110M-E/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($55.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($61.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: ADATA SP900 M.2 128GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($53.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.66 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 470 4GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($161.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($41.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.70 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: HP 22cwa 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($33.75 @ Amazon)
Other: Windows 10 64bit at r/microsoftsoftwareswap ($40.00)
Total: $784.04
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-17 16:53 EST-0500

Don't forget, buying used parts is an option. Reddit, GAF BST, CL, eBay, etc. Also, scavenging for good prebuilt sales may be worth your while at this price point.
 

LilJoka

Member
I'm aware that on the modern Intel CPUs you can overclock the cpu core and cache separately... do you guys overclock the cpu with the cache at stock and then once you find a stable clock go back and repeat the process for the cache? (since the cache usually can't run 1:1 once overclocked) Or do you guys just leave the cache at stock? (I hear it makes a very small real-world difference?)

Also, do you guys still use Prime 95 or something else like Asus realbench to test for stability?

I leave cache at stock since the increase in performance is negligible at the cost of vcore and ultimate core speed.
 

SRG01

Member
If you're not gonna return the G402 and you have time, you can try this method; I did it with my G602 and fixed the stuck/ double left clicking problem it had :) Putting back the spring took some time though lol

http://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-mouse-with-double-click-problem/

Well, here's the thing: I have enough of an electronics background to take this entire thing apart and replace the switch on the PCB... but I work insanely long hours, so having time to actually fix it is the issue :/
 
Can any of you guys recommend me a PC build with the following requirements?

Monitor (1080p 60 Hz), mouse, keyboard, OS (preferably Windows 10)
SSD for booting and few games, HDD for everything else
Can handle demanding games at reasonable framerates

Budget not too high, maybe $500-700?

Honestly might suggest picking up this thing:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1332569

Comes with everything but a monitor for $650, so you could get paskowitz' suggested monitor and come out with a more powerful CPU and GPU.
 
Wait, that case has a filter on the bottom for the psu fan that will allow you to face the fan side down. Orienting it like the way you have you are pulling hot air from the inside of your case through your psu. Putting your psu fan side down allows your psu to draw cool air from outside the case to cool your psu, the ideal situation.

Very good point amigo. I went back, thought about it and flipped the PSU, it's now facing down because I do have the vents in my case.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
So today I decided that it's 2017 and I'm going to ditch my internal optical drive. I returned the one I bought the other day and instead bought an external drive for whenever I want to rip or burn a CD. Now that it's no longer inside my computer, later then month whenever I can finally get my hands on a Samsung 960 M.2 ssd then my PC won't have any SATA devices and everything will be directly connected to the motherboard. PC innards are going to be tidy :)

My GPU (1080 FE) is at 82-85 C during load, is that normal? Seems kinda high.

That's normal, the GTX 1080 comes with a stock temperature limit of 83C, after which it will reduce clock speeds to get back down to maintain 83C. The founder's edition is going to run at that limit on the stock fan profile.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/10325/the-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-and-1070-founders-edition-review/30
 
Okay so I OC'd my i5-7600k to 4.8 GHz at 1.31v and I'm currently stress testing it in AIDA64...After like 10 mins, the highest core temp I got was 66c. For some reason this feels fairly low for stress testing. Are there any settings I'm missing? It's stressing everything but the GPU.

I'm also running a DH-D15 cooler on it.
 

SpacLock

Member
OK.

After sleeping on my previous build and going with some GAF suggestions I decided to upgrade a few components.

If someone could take a look at this build and let me know if it seems legit enough for the cash I would really appreciate it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.69 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 74.3 CFM CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A KRAIT GAMING 3X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($122.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($101.93 @ Amazon)
Storage: PNY CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($74.99 @ Jet)
Video Card: XFX Radeon RX 480 8GB GTR Video Card ($279.87 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.33 @ OutletPC)
Total: $983.57
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-18 00:55 EST-0500

I'm currently most concerned with the mobo since I haven't seen enough reviews on it.

Edit: I should mention I already own additional extremely storage as a short term fix to the storage weakness.
 

goober

Member
I just got a rx480, is it worth purchasing a freesync monitor?
what does a freesync monitor do that makes it worthwhile over just a regular 1080p monitor?
 
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