I'll see if I can thank you.
But would I be able to replace the parts in this system much easier if need be?
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I'll see if I can thank you.
But would I be able to replace the parts in this system much easier if need be?
If you want to replace parts, build one from scratch.
If you want to wait a few years and replace the whole machkne, get a prebuilt
JonnyDBrit
Member
Yes. With particular regards to the motherboard and CPU, the i5-6400 is an LGA 1151 CPU. That means you can replace the motherboard with anything from the last few years and still have it be compatible - even the new 200-series boards meant for Kabylake - or get a new CPU of the same socket type and put it in the existing motherboard. Also the RX 480 is more powerful than the 1050 Ti you have right now, even if it's likely the 4GB version of the card.
Hi guys,
building a pc for my brother.
Sharkoon VG4-S - Midtowermodel
34,49
ASRock FM2A68M-HD+ - motherboard
48,96
Intel Core i7 6700 - 3.4 GHz
337,14
HPE - DDR3
69,91
MSI GeForce GTX 1060 3G OC 3GB ATX
232,95
MS-Tech MS-N750-VAL - Rev B
56,98
I have a SSD 850 500gb and crosshair h70 lying around.
I want to know, should I wait for the new graphics cards/or processor?
Are there any bottlenecks?
If you would advice a better power supply for instance, because you have power supply that is very silent, I would love to hear your advice. I don't want to buy crap! I am willing to spend more, but only if the things on list are not worth it.
Chances are he will only play CSGO (maybe BF1, or shooting games) but he now plays CSGO on his laptop on low settings and he is fine with this, but his birthday comes up and want to buy him this rig.
Thanks.
building a pc for my brother.
Sharkoon VG4-S - Midtowermodel
34,49
ASRock FM2A68M-HD+ - motherboard
48,96
Intel Core i7 6700 - 3.4 GHz
337,14
HPE - DDR3
69,91
MSI GeForce GTX 1060 3G OC 3GB ATX
232,95
MS-Tech MS-N750-VAL - Rev B
56,98
I have a SSD 850 500gb and crosshair h70 lying around.
I want to know, should I wait for the new graphics cards/or processor?
Are there any bottlenecks?
If you would advice a better power supply for instance, because you have power supply that is very silent, I would love to hear your advice. I don't want to buy crap! I am willing to spend more, but only if the things on list are not worth it.
Chances are he will only play CSGO (maybe BF1, or shooting games) but he now plays CSGO on his laptop on low settings and he is fine with this, but his birthday comes up and want to buy him this rig.
Thanks.
Jezbollah
Member
I think you've got a nice setup there for some good 1080p gaming. Personally speaking I would spend a bit more on a better PSU (I don't think you need a 750w, maybe a 600-650w modular one?)
Yes, with a PSU of 650 Watts you have more than enough. With a 600W you would do too as you probably aren't going to overclock it.
Here is a list of the different tiers of PSUs: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/631048-psu-tier-list-updated/
lostsupper
Banned
Too much voltage (within spec) results in excess heat. BSOD is usually the result of too little applied voltage or vdroop.
What motherboard are you using? And what exact settings have you changed?
OriginofHysteria
Banned
What's your budget?
That motherboard doesn't work with that processor. It's for AMD fm2 chips. You need a socket 1151 Intel motherboard for that CPU.
opticalmace
Member
What kennah said, plus you'll need DDR4 ram.
700-800
ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming with the most recent BIOS installed.
I currently have
CPU Core Ratio - 43
Turbo / Speedstep - Both Enabled
Manual Vcore - 1.265
^These settings appear just barely stable, no BSOD but the CPU runs into the 80C range fairly quickly once put under load. I am starting to think the current CPU cooler might not be functioning properly (will be able to test that next week once the cooler upgrade shows up) but my idle temps are very low which would imply that the cooling is working as intended?
And here are the temps after about a minute of AIDA64 stress testing (all components)
Seems barely reasonable IMO, and if I push the CPU core or vcore any higher it'll definitely overheat. a 4.3 gHz at 1.265 should not be doing this much heat...?
Hmm, potential new PC build.
Just throwing ideas around at the moment and, by extension, looking for advice from people who actually know their onions.
Main usage case is being able to throw any game at it and get 1080/60 at high/ultra. Not too concerned with supersampling or 4K. VR also isn't a priority but is something I might like to dabble with down the line, so the option would be nice but not essential.
CPU: i5 7500 Kaby Lake
Motherboard: Gigabyte H270
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4
GPU: EVGA GTX 1060 6GB
HDD: Toshiba 1TB
SSD: Samsung 250GB
PSU: EVGA 550w
Case: Fractal Design R4 Mid Tower
I guess my main questions would be;
1.) Is this overkill and/or badly planned? Can I get what I want to achieve more effeciently and cheaper? I'm willing to save money if I can. Only component I'm locked to is the case as I love those and don't mind paying more for it.
2.) Is a 550w PSU fine to power all that safely?
3.) Everything will fit in that case fine, right?
Just throwing ideas around at the moment and, by extension, looking for advice from people who actually know their onions.
Main usage case is being able to throw any game at it and get 1080/60 at high/ultra. Not too concerned with supersampling or 4K. VR also isn't a priority but is something I might like to dabble with down the line, so the option would be nice but not essential.
CPU: i5 7500 Kaby Lake
Motherboard: Gigabyte H270
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR4
GPU: EVGA GTX 1060 6GB
HDD: Toshiba 1TB
SSD: Samsung 250GB
PSU: EVGA 550w
Case: Fractal Design R4 Mid Tower
I guess my main questions would be;
1.) Is this overkill and/or badly planned? Can I get what I want to achieve more effeciently and cheaper? I'm willing to save money if I can. Only component I'm locked to is the case as I love those and don't mind paying more for it.
2.) Is a 550w PSU fine to power all that safely?
3.) Everything will fit in that case fine, right?
Temps are fine, if they hit 90c then you worry.
A stress test is just that, stress. You will never get that kind of load using a computer normally, and never hit temps that high.
P.S. I've been running my 2500k at 1.55v with a nhd-14 for years with no issues. Temps under normal use never top 75c but can spike under stress tests.
lostsupper
Banned
First, reseat your cooler. Then go into your bios and start fresh. Load optimized defaults and follow the OC guide I linked.
In broad strokes, you're going to increase your multiplier to 45. Raise your voltage in manual mode until it's stable at that rate. If your temperatures go above 85C or stability requires more than 1.45v, stop.
If after reseating your cooler you still can't keep it cool, replace the cooler and/or delid. Repeat the above process. Once you determine the voltage needed for a given clock speed, then you change voltage from manual to adaptive or offset. But all that comes after you figure out this initial step.
Updated the bios?
Edit read it's latest.
What's the load vcore in CPUz?
Set load line calibration to level 5.
And turn XMP off for now.
Alright, I won't even bother with that until the H60 shows up next week. I'll report back, thanks for your help!
1.248 Volts is what CPU-Z is reporting.
I have LLC set to Level 3, should I bump it up to 5 then?
I've disabled XMP and manually set my RAM timings to no ill effect.
Hey PC GAF, I am in the market for a new computer, and really thought I would build one, but I saw this on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HNBLHAA/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I dont think I can buy the parts cheap enough to build this, and this looks like a solid PC all I want is a 1080/60 beast that will do those for a long time...can someone tell me their thoughts on this.
It looks like $425 to buy the cpu/gpu alone in parts.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HNBLHAA/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I dont think I can buy the parts cheap enough to build this, and this looks like a solid PC all I want is a 1080/60 beast that will do those for a long time...can someone tell me their thoughts on this.
It looks like $425 to buy the cpu/gpu alone in parts.
JonnyDBrit
Member
If you're looking at that, look at this instead:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1332569&highlight=6400
Basically the same build, slightly cheaper.
Bloodember
Member
Just disable her.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Is it possible for monitor technology, particularly the backlight response time, to deteriorate?
I ask because I'm noticing the LCD IPS blur on my monitor more often these days, specifically in scenarios where light and dark colours are contrasting in motion. For example, the white mouse moving around on a dark background, or scrolling down a website where lightly coloured text is displayed on dark background.
I know LCD/IPS has this issue anyway, and is inherently problematic with the technology (hence strobe related features). It's not so bad that's ruining my usage. I'm just wondering if it's deteriorating or purely me paying too much attention.
I ask because I'm noticing the LCD IPS blur on my monitor more often these days, specifically in scenarios where light and dark colours are contrasting in motion. For example, the white mouse moving around on a dark background, or scrolling down a website where lightly coloured text is displayed on dark background.
I know LCD/IPS has this issue anyway, and is inherently problematic with the technology (hence strobe related features). It's not so bad that's ruining my usage. I'm just wondering if it's deteriorating or purely me paying too much attention.
She still hogs the disk if you check Task Manager. And if you uninstall Cortana altogether, you lose the search function.
Bloodember
Member
Huh, guess I've never noticed.
Nyteshade517
Member
I know I made a parts list a few days ago that was "final" but here is my truly final list of parts that I'm looking at for a build...if anyone has suggestions on what I should change feel free to say so because all advice is appreciated
also wanted to say thank you again to everyone that has answered my questions recently
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15
Motherboard: ASUS STRIX Z270E GAMING
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3200
Storage: Intel 600p Series 512GB M.2 NVMe PCIe 3.0 x4 SSD
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750W
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC 8GB (already have this card)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Titanium (already have this case)
also wanted to say thank you again to everyone that has answered my questions recently
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15
Motherboard: ASUS STRIX Z270E GAMING
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3200
Storage: Intel 600p Series 512GB M.2 NVMe PCIe 3.0 x4 SSD
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750W
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC 8GB (already have this card)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Titanium (already have this case)
Only choose Samsung for M.2 SSDs. Significantly better performance in all benchmark comparisons.
Nyteshade517
Member
the motherboard has M key sockets for M.2...the Samsung M.2 that I could afford would be the 850 EVO and it uses B+M
or would it still work?...I honestly have no idea
Hi GAF I'm about to pick GPU for my PC. I previously got pc with i5 6400 with no GPU and for psu I got seasonic 520 w PSU. Which would be the better GPU options: gtx 1060 6gb or rx 480 8gb? I plan to use the gpu for some time due to budget reason. Is there any issue with gtx 1060 6gb memory?
Bloodember
Member
Honestly in day to day operations of you computer you won't notice a difference in speed from a 960 to the 600p, unless your all about benchmarks or you transfer large files to and from it. The 600p will do just fine.
it would still work, but the 600p is a better overall product for the same price with 3x read speed
I believe both are nearly equal with in game performance so pick whatever, although I'd go with a 480 for more VRAM
This hp is your best bet. Future upgrades would include new PSU and it could take a 4ghz i7. But would be solid for the money for a couple years.
this review says 30+ FPS ultra quality on a FE card, so it should be fine on a aftermarket air cooler (which the blade should handle fine, after checking again.) Although, you may need to lower settings if you are using passthrough on the card to the laptop assuming you own a razer laptop of some kind. Also, the laptop may cut some FPS on top of that with a weaker CPU
Wolf Akela
Member
Don't want to start a new thread for this but there's no Origins community topic so...
Which Sims game should I play? I have Sims 2 Ultimate and vanilla Sims 3 and I don't think I'll buy any expansion. I've played Sims 1 but I usually get bored by the time it requires you to have too many friends to to move up the career ladder.
My favorite part was probably making the house.
Which Sims game should I play? I have Sims 2 Ultimate and vanilla Sims 3 and I don't think I'll buy any expansion. I've played Sims 1 but I usually get bored by the time it requires you to have too many friends to to move up the career ladder.
My favorite part was probably making the house.
yeah, you can pick any settings you want with any resolution with PC games
I liked both for various reasons but 2 with expansions might have more things to do and house building over 3, although it's not easy to say what would be the superior experience as both games would have different exclusive experiences to have. I used to play the sims a whole lot when I was younger, heh.
So I've got a 1440p 144hz monitor with gsync on its way, but a quick question. With a 1070, is there any reason for me to ever use 100hz, 120hz, or even 60hz instead of 144hz? Like, day my card can't handle games at max settings at 144fps, I'd want to lower the refresh rate to reduce stuttering, right? Or does Gsync basically make it so I can play any game at 144hz with perfect smoothness (provided I maintain 40+fps)?
I guess I'm having trouble wrapping my brain around how gsync's magic actually works.
Edit: I guess 144hz would introduce weird issues with movies and stuff, no?
I guess I'm having trouble wrapping my brain around how gsync's magic actually works.
Edit: I guess 144hz would introduce weird issues with movies and stuff, no?
Wowfunhappy
Member
Does anyone know of a good way to organize UNPLUGGED wires? I have a bunch of usb cables, audio cables, power cables, extensions, adaptors, and the like sitting in a big box in my closet. They take up a lot of space, and getting any one wire out is a chore because they all get hopelessly tangled together. Surely there's a better way?
Velcro straps works great to tie wires.
Strafebogey
Member
G-Sync works in the range of 30fps up to the highest refresh rate the display panel is built to. I'ld leave it to the highest it could do and leave it there.
I'm using the PG348Q panel with G-Sync capable up to 100hz, but I had to CAP my PC performance framerate to 100fps so that I'll stay inside the G-Sync framerate window. I constantly get framerates above 135fps on most games set at Very High/Ultra except Crysis 3.
ph1l0z0ph3r
Member
So thinking about doing a nice fresh build. Currently rocking a struggle FX-4100 with a GTX 970. Keeping the 970 but everything else I want new. Looking at this build so far. Any ideas on where to cut cost at? Honestly debating if I want a K series since I'm not sure I want to overclock anymore although it did give me a bit more oomph out of my FX
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H55 57.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.54 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270-K ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($142.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($99.80 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.66 @ OutletPC)
Case: Inwin 303 White ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $831.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-20 02:51 EST-0500
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($239.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H55 57.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.54 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z270-K ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($142.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($99.80 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.66 @ OutletPC)
Case: Inwin 303 White ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $831.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-20 02:51 EST-0500
ISee
Member
If your cooling is good enough and you can reach higher clock speeds in a reasonable voltage range then cpu overclocking is just fine. A 7600k should be able to reach at least 4.8ghz without any kind of problems.
I also have the feeling you're trying to build a foundation for a future 'high end' gpu upgrade (whatever high end means). If that's true please consider to get higher clocked xmp ddr4 ram (3000+mhz). All Intel CPUs seem to profit from higher clocked ram, especially in CPU bound scenarios.
And I know you asked about saving money and not spending even more, but I really think it makes sense to invest the extra $30.
Darkstorne
Member
What's the overall opinion on PCIe SSDs as boot drives these days? I read into this 12 months ago and there were a lot of mixed reactions - some people saying they got speed increases over SATA SSDs, some saying no difference, and some saying their PC even booted slower. Tried Googling for some new articles on using them as boot drives, but top hits are still the exact same topics and articles from 2015 and early 2016...
On paper they're around 5 or 6 times faster than SATA SSDs, so I'd love to know that I can genuinely have a PC that boots literally in 5-10 seconds one day.
On paper they're around 5 or 6 times faster than SATA SSDs, so I'd love to know that I can genuinely have a PC that boots literally in 5-10 seconds one day.
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