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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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I'm planning on upgrading my PC this fall (currently have an old gtx660ti, and i5 2500K) but I'm curious if I can get away with keeping my old RAM, to save on money.

I currently have 8GBs (maybe 16 I forgot) of 1333 RAM.

Would that RAM be a bottleneck if I'm planning on getting the GTX 1070 and an i5 6600K?
 
I'm planning on upgrading my PC this fall (currently have an old gtx660ti, and i5 2500K) but I'm curious if I can get away with keeping my old RAM, to save on money.

I currently have 8GBs (maybe 16 I forgot) of 1333 RAM.

Would that RAM be a bottleneck if I'm planning on getting the GTX 1070 and an i5 6600K?

You'll need new ram for Skylake (it uses DDR4). It's pretty cheap though, so I wouldn't get hung up on that.

You could sell your old PC if you wanted. The 2500k is still quite desireable.
 
You'll need new ram for Skylake (it uses DDR4). It's pretty cheap though, so I wouldn't get hung up on that.

You could sell your old PC if you wanted. The 2500k is still quite desireable.
Yeah, I'm definitely planning on getting some money on my current PC components. I think I might even have the i5 3570k now that I think about it.

I meant to do that last time I upgraded my PC (an old AMD build back in 2009), but I fucked up taking it apart and got thermal paste all over the CPU pins. 😣
 

kennah

Member
It does also support DDR3L.

There is no point.

a) People will probably not already have DDR3L
b) it requires totally different motherboards that aren't common
c) DDR3L is more expensive than DDR4.

It's slower, there's really no point in bringing this up.
 

LostDonkey

Member
Yeah, I was glossing over that though because he most likely doesn't have it and it's not worth sourcing out a board that does imho.

Well you "can" actually use DDR3. It does work. But only "officially" supports DDR3L is what I was getting at.

But I believe intel sent a warning out saying it "may" damage the processor.

I have a friend who has been using a 6700k with 16gbs of DDR3 and its still alive.
 
I have the same GPU, with a very mild 100MHz OC on the core clock and a slightly adjusted fan curve. I haven't see it hit above 70C (63C average on GPU-Z log) under full sustained load (Witcher 3 @ 3440x1440/uncapped framerate for a hour, plus various stress testing utilities) My case is a Corsair 750D (Stock. Not AFE)

Perhaps your CPU heatsink is heating up the case a tad? (My rig has a H115i AIO for perspective) Granted, it should be negligible, but poor case airflow will exacerbate that issue.

Either way, I personally recommend both the 750D and Air 540, fantastic cases.


Edit: No improvement when using an aggressive fan curve indicates an exhaust issue to me. Try adding another fan as rear or top exhaust if possible.

Yea, this is really starting to drive me nuts. As the GPU sits in the case, it's about 4.5" from the metal they use to separate the PSU housing, etc. The intake seems to not blow enough air to cool that section of the case. As soon as I remove the front panel, to expose the front fans, the temps drop like a rock. I was looking at the Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Glass, but I don't see how that'd be any different. It's still restricting front airflow.

Do you think it's worth buying static pressure fans for the front and seeing if it helps, or should I just buy a new case? I'd like a mid tower if possible. Something that can sit on my desk that isn't too monsterous.
 
question for anyone that can answer/give advice...

on ebay the Acer XB240HABPR is $269.99 manufacturer refurbished from Acer

1080p/144Hz/G-Sync...Worth taking a risk on refurbished or no? Brand new monitors like that one are at least $100+ more expensive. I could get that monitor with a EVGA 980Ti Classified for about $635 combined or get a GTX 1070 when they are available and get the monitor separately.

Bad decision?...Good decision?...
 

e90Mark

Member
question for anyone that can answer/give advice...

on ebay the Acer XB240HABPR is $269.99 manufacturer refurbished from Acer

1080p/144Hz/G-Sync...Worth taking a risk on refurbished or no? Brand new monitors like that one are at least $100+ more expensive. I could get that monitor with a EVGA 980Ti Classified for about $635 combined or get a GTX 1070 when they are available and get the monitor separately.

Bad decision?...Good decision?...

I'd say it's worth taking the chance. People have been buying the XB271hu refurbished with good results.
 
Got the Strix but now i keep getting blue screen after installation. Also when it feels like working the fans rev up to max and i cant control the speed with other programs since it thinks its at 0 rpm.
 

kuYuri

Member
So I just brought a case for my new PC and Google comes up and say they will give me free purchase protection because Newegg is legit and ranks highly, I know google is find but what I really wanna know is is there some type of catch?

I've done it before and never noticed any catches.
 

LogicStep

Member
I'm trying to figure out if I want to use my PC on my 1080p tv or go with a high end gsync monitor. Obviously the monitor will give me a better picture but what worries me is actually taking advantage of it. I'm looking to get either 1070 or 1080 but I'm wondering how many games or for how long will it be able to push 1440p with max settings and on top of that high fps for the 144hz thing.. I'm not sure what to go with.
 
So, I fucked up my motherboard.

I got so excited when my 1080s were delivered that I yanked my 970 too hard from the pci-e slot, forgetting to push back the little clip, and broke off the plastic insert, the pins are all crooked and bent. I don't even want to start it out fear of the pins touching each other and short circuiting.

I ordered another one, smh.

What's the process? Just straight up replace and start up? Any issues with windows 10 and drivers? Will i have to buy another Windows license?
 

e90Mark

Member
So, I fucked up my motherboard.

I got so excited when my 1080s were delivered that I yanked my 970 too hard from the pci-e slot, forgetting to push back the little clip, and broke off the plastic insert, the pins are all crooked and bent. I don't even want to start it out fear of the pins touching each other and short circuiting.

I ordered another one, smh.

What's the process? Just straight up replace and start up? Any issues with windows 10 and drivers? Will i have to buy another Windows license?

Same board? Should be just replace and start up. When I had to do this, W10 didn't ask to re-activate my windows key.
 
So, I fucked up my motherboard.

I got so excited when my 1080s were delivered that I yanked my 970 too hard from the pci-e slot, forgetting to push back the little clip, and broke off the plastic insert, the pins are all crooked and bent. I don't even want to start it out fear of the pins touching each other and short circuiting.

I ordered another one, smh.

What's the process? Just straight up replace and start up? Any issues with windows 10 and drivers? Will i have to buy another Windows license?

You might be able to just use a different PCIe slot. You'd have to do some googling about the touching pins but I wouldn't be surprised if the motherboard is still serviceable. YMMV though, and if you do try it out, I would remove basically everything.
 
Humming along at 4.6 GHz on 1.33v now, thanks for your help guys. Temps are still a little bit iffy on Prime95 small FFT, but I doubt I'll get that stress in real world use.
 
Same board? Should be just replace and start up. When I had to do this, W10 didn't ask to re-activate my windows key.

No, my current one is an MSI Z87-G45. I ordered an MSI Z97 Gaming 5. Couldn't find the same mobo for sale anywhere brand new. Not surprising, its a bit dated.

You might be able to just use a different PCIe slot. You'd have to do some googling about the touching pins but I wouldn't be surprised if the motherboard is still serviceable. YMMV though, and if you do try it out, I would remove basically everything.

I'd honestly rather go through with another new board. Don't really want to risk anything and using slots 1 and 3 looks awful (slot 2 is the broken one). $130 for a new one with no risk involved is a piece of mind and doesn't exactly break the bank.
 
Friend asked to help her build a new rig for "For programs for texturizing and lighting. Mudbox, Unreal Engine 4 and gaming"

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($314.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($182.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic ATX Mid Tower Case ($77.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($115.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1120.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-14 23:09 EDT-0400

Talked to her about new cards and she wants to snag a 1080 when she can as well. Any thoughts/recommendations?

she gave me a budget of $2000-$3000 as well.
 
I made it about 48 hours subscribed to /r/pcmasterrace before having to leave

I hate the term but I'm always looking for new PC gaming communities to join. But holy crap those people are insufferable
 
I made it about 48 hours subscribed to /r/pcmasterrace before having to leave

I hate the term but I'm always looking for new PC gaming communities to join. But holy crap those people are insufferable

From what I've heard they take the "master race" thing literally. That should tell you everything you need to know ^^
 
Friend asked to help her build a new rig for "For programs for texturizing and lighting. Mudbox, Unreal Engine 4 and gaming"

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($314.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($182.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($76.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic ATX Mid Tower Case ($77.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($115.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1120.88
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-14 23:09 EDT-0400

Talked to her about new cards and she wants to snag a 1080 when she can as well. Any thoughts/recommendations?

she gave me a budget of $2000-$3000 as well.

Up the CPU to a Broadwell-E if you have the budget left.
 

fanboi

Banned
How is this monitor:
ASUS 24" MG24UQ 4K

Is there any other monitor that I should pick instead? 4k IPS seems fine (going to get a 1080 GPU).

EDIT: Also which one of the reviewed 1080 cards is the best one, so far, to get?
 
Yesterday I finally built my first PC. I did it by myself, with only Google to help me out. It was a long process but in the end I found it pretty darn rewarding. So, I figured I should put a summary of events somewhere.

First, the part list. Everything but the case and OS were bought on Newegg. this was mostly because they generally had the best prices and (for the most part) free shipping. The case was bought on Amazon. The OS I got on eBay.

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K - $235
GPU: ASUS Nvidia GTX 970 OC - $299
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2400 - $45
Motherboard: ASUS Z170-A - $135 + $11 S&H = $146
PSU: Corsair CS-M Series 550W 80+ Gold Semi-Modular - $80
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper EVO 212 - $30
Storage: Corsair Force 2.5" 240GB SSD - $59
Case: NZXT S340 ATX Mid Tower Case Matte Black/Red - $85
OS: Windows 10 Pro - $20
Total: $999

So, a few things to note here. First, the CPU, GPU, and RAM were bought piecemeal 1-2 months before the rest of the components. This was mostly because of sales and the like. This also means that when I bought the 970 the Pascal architecture hadn't been announced yet. If it was, I may have sprung for a 1070. However, doing so would've added another $80-150 to the build, which would've pushed the build back 2-3 weeks.

Second, yes, I know, the storage there is paltry. When it came down to it, I only had enough left for an SSD or an HDD, not both. Given the option, I went with a small capacity SSD to serve as my boot drive. Plus, I'm only going to be slumming it with my SSD for a short while. Come Monday I'll be buying a 1-2TB HDD to serve as my primary storage drive. At the same time I'll also be buying a PCI Wi-Fi card. Getting a good ATX Z170 motherboard with wi-fi built in just wasn't an option. At the same time, using a cheap USB dongle (as I am right now) just isn't cutting it. Factoring the price of a 2TB drive (~$65) and the Wi-Fi card ($30-50), the total build will be about $1,100.

Also, yeah, I know, the price on that OS is mad low. This is the one area where I really cut corners in the build. I previously thought I had a way to get Windows free (legally), but it turns out I didn't. So, I had to scramble to get a copy of Windows 10 as cheaply as possible. Turns out people sell products keys on eBay on the cheap. Whether the keys are legit or not, it worked for me. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Anyway, the build was supposed to happen sometime Friday or Saturday. However, the person who sold the case on Amazon (they went by CHERRY BOMB) didn't bother to actually ship the thing until the end of the week, despite the order going in on Monday night, along with all the other components. So, I got an email from Amazon telling me my case had just shipped about an hour after the rest of the components showed up at my door. It eventually showed up on Monday.

The build itself went okay. There were only a few real hangups. I ended up having to apply thermal paste 3 times. I had to remove it the first time because I skipped a step or three putting on the cooler.. The second time I actually put the cooler on the wrong way. Beyond that, it was mostly getting getting cables where they were supposed to be. It took me about 20-30 minutes to figure out where the front panel LEDs plugged in.

The cords that came with the PSU had one quirk that has my PC looking less than ideal: the SATA power cords come in at a direction that clashes with the mounting of my SSD. So, my SSD is lifted up on one side to let the cable get to the port. Also the PSU I have has only 3 peripheral ports and one PCIe port. I have one peripheral port not being used right now. Not a huge amount of expandability there but for right now it'll work. Beyond that, cables on the one side are out of the way and unobtrusive. On the other side... well, they're kinda just stuck in corners. But that's okay!

After some monkeying with drivers and such I finally had a PC again! At least, one I could play games on that weren't Duck Game (which even on my laptop had framerate issues on certain user maps). The thing that stuck me the most was the boot time. I've only ever had PCs with HDD and not exactly fast CPUs. Seeing this thing go from power button to login screen in 20 seconds was and still is insane to me. Beyond that, I've thrown a few games at it and have had fantastic results.

The first thing I threw at it was DOOM 2016, specifically the demo of it. Everything was cranked to it's highest setting, apart from textures, which I literally could not put at max due to the 970's 4GB of VRAM. Literally never saw the FPS counter go below 60fps. This was even while I was recording the game via GameBar.

The next game was The Division, which I got for free with my graphics card. Results are less positive there. I had to tone more than a few settings down to get it to a stable 60. Having said that, it looks great even at that level.

Star Wars: Battlefront was next and it didn't even break a sweat. Stuck everything on Ultra, doesn't matter. 60. I even tried doing some downsampling, but I'm not 100% sure where I can stick that and still keep the 60. Still cool that it does it in-engine without requiring out of game fiddling. Speaking of which...

Next I tried CS:GO. Now, I knew it would handle max setting no problem. However, I decided to experiment with downsampling. I was able to get the Nvidia Control Panel to output in 1440p, but I wasn't able to for 4k. Will need to tinker with that. Regardless, it took didn't break a sweat.

Finally, the last thing I stuck in it was Forza Motorsport 6: Apex. After literally 2 days of downloading it (what the hell is up with the slow downloads in the Windows Store?) I powered it up, stuck everything on max, and the PC didn't even cough. What a beautiful game, JFC. Interestingly enough, it offers 1440p and (I'm assuming) 4k as resolution options in game. Might be worth a try for shits and gigs. However, one thing that sucks about it (and I certain this is due to UWP bollocks) is that Shadowplay refused to work in it. Possibly because it couldn't find the game on my drive. Makes sense, given that it's in a hidden file that even when revealed I can't access, despite having administrator privileges. Thanks Microsoft. I'll have to find some other way to track framerate in Store games.

Anyway, that's that. I hope some of you find this interesting? I kinda just wanted to get that down in words somewhere. It was certainly a learning experience. I'll definitely be reading more about the PSU next time. That is the only real down part of the build for me. Here are some pics of the system in you care:

O1PaTmE.jpg

q8XSU2C.jpg

AySUb5n.jpg

4ZrNj3F.jpg

LxCtMVU.jpg
 

DesuNe

Member
Been waiting for these new cards to replace my 760 with a 1070.
How hard am I going to get bottlenecked by my amd phenom ii x6 1050t? Should I work to replace the CPU first?
 

Akoi

Member

joecanada

Member
hi this question feels really dumb but I swear I tried to work it out on my own.... I just bought a IPS235 LED Flattron for real cheap but I can't for the life of me figure out how to tilt the bloody thing. I have had numerous monitors over the years and never come across this before, it is basically tilted forward which sucks and I can't figure how to tilt it back... the manual just says grab it and tilt it but its not moving and I'm basically bending it....

heres the manual even it doesn't say shit...

"Mounting on a table
1 Lift and tilt the Monitor set into its upright
position on a table.
Leave a 10 cm (minimum) space from the wall
for proper ventilation."

http://www.lg.com/hk_en/support/man...ateId=CT20136040&modelNum=IPS235V-BN&keyword=

like wtf !!!????
 

McBryBry

Member
Looking to get some kind of SD Card reader for the tower. I have an open 3.5" under my DVD drive that something could go in, but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations.
 

BajiBoxer

Banned
Doing a rebuild after a long time (currently have a Phenom II X4 965) and I'm going with the 6700K since Newegg had it marked down to around $300.

So, anyway, my package from Newegg showed up with my new mobo, ram, and cooling, but they forgot to put the 6700K in the box :-( Had to contact them and go through the claims process. Got my new case showing up tomorrow. It sucks having all my parts except the CPU... just this big box sitting on my floor waiting to be assembled.
 

Jamaro85

Member
So I just read the footnote that unexpected power loss with an SSD can cause you to lose all data. How are you guys backing up your SSD data? I haven't used any backup utility software in over a decade, but I'm thinking that I'd like some automated process to be able to mirror backup my SSD to a HDD with incremental changes. Something that would allow me to schedule it or do it at times of my choosing.

How are you guys handling this? Right now with my laptop I just backup critical files to a NAS on my local network, but with the SSD I think I'm going to want to take it a step further.

Also, how many of you are using battery backups to help protect from sudden power loss?
 

Azulsky

Member
So I just read the footnote that unexpected power loss with an SSD can cause you to lose all data. How are you guys backing up your SSD data? I haven't used any backup utility software in over a decade, but I'm thinking that I'd like some automated process to be able to mirror backup my SSD to a HDD with incremental changes. Something that would allow me to schedule it or do it at times of my choosing.

How are you guys handling this? Right now with my laptop I just backup critical files to a NAS on my local network, but with the SSD I think I'm going to want to take it a step further.

Also, how many of you are using battery backups to help protect from sudden power loss?

I use Acronis to make differential backups of my SSD to my RAID 1 HDDs on a schedule(nightly) and it keeps the last 10. I keep all the stuff I want to survive on my NAS. I keep some important photos and scans of important documents on the cloud as well in case my house burns down/tornado/etc.

With a laptop you could have an external drive and configure something like SyncBack to do a backup and let it run whenever it detects the drive being inserted. For files you can have it run an FTP backup that runs on a schedule
for specific directories. I do the latter with my document files to my NAS nightly.

I dont have my PC on UPS. I have my network gear and my NAS on one though. The RAID card has a battery that helps it deal with some power loss issues but that is about it. I just have surge protection on the Power and Network cables going into the PC and its Yolo from there. Need to get the surge arrestor that goes onto the main feed(Square D) instead of dealing with fancier surge protection strips or PDUs.
 

LilJoka

Member
So I just read the footnote that unexpected power loss with an SSD can cause you to lose all data. How are you guys backing up your SSD data? I haven't used any backup utility software in over a decade, but I'm thinking that I'd like some automated process to be able to mirror backup my SSD to a HDD with incremental changes. Something that would allow me to schedule it or do it at times of my choosing.

How are you guys handling this? Right now with my laptop I just backup critical files to a NAS on my local network, but with the SSD I think I'm going to want to take it a step further.

Also, how many of you are using battery backups to help protect from sudden power loss?

Afaik this happened to old crucial drives, I never saw this otherwise.
 

Brandon F

Well congratulations! You got yourself caught!
No, my current one is an MSI Z87-G45. I ordered an MSI Z97 Gaming 5. Couldn't find the same mobo for sale anywhere brand new. Not surprising, its a bit dated.

I had to replace a motherboard recently in my PC as it went faulty and dealt with license issues myself.

Windows 10 will require verification of your license and presume its a new PC once you switch boards. You will get a pop-up asking you to either input a new license or call support to verify info(if same PC). I just called the given number, which linked me to a special MS website on my phone from the call. Inputted a few ID #'s provided to me and I was up and running. A bit of a pain, but took all of like 7 minutes.
 

Korezo

Member
The acer predetor XB271HK monitors are terrible quality. And Acer states they are IPS but the 2 that I've tried look like TN, looking at it from different angles or swiveling changes contrast making it look washed and fadded out just like a TN. And don't get me started with the terrible light bleeds where a entire side is yellow and the other white...
 
GAF I Need help for my Troubleshooting :

I have recently built a tower with second Hand elements. What I found out was that I could not start Windows on it. I also get this strange message :


I removed my graphics Card and I could overclock my RAM in the BIOS so it shouldn't be the Problem. The CPU has normal temps. I tried to put in my SSD back into my former PC but it's not booting completely now and the screen remains black.

Now you would say that I need to slot in a different SSD and give it a try. The issue is that I don't have any spare SSD lying around otherwise, I would have tried to put it in. What advice do you have for me GAF ? Thanks in advance.
 
GAF I Need help for my Troubleshooting :

I have recently built a tower with second Hand elements. What I found out was that I could not start Windows on it. I also get this strange message :



I removed my graphics Card and I could overclock my RAM in the BIOS so it shouldn't be the Problem. The CPU has normal temps. I tried to put in my SSD back into my former PC but it's not booting completely now and the screen remains black.

Now you would say that I need to slot in a different SSD and give it a try. The issue is that I don't have any spare SSD lying around otherwise, I would have tried to put it in. What advice do you have for me GAF ? Thanks in advance.

You should reset the CMOS battery. Check your motherboard about how (you can just pop it out and wait a minute before putting it back in normally).

If you can get into the BIOS, reset to optimized defaults (removing overclocks) and see if it works okay.

edit: oh, missed the fact that you were trying to use an old install of windows. What LilJoka said.
 

LilJoka

Member
GAF I Need help for my Troubleshooting :

I have recently built a tower with second Hand elements. What I found out was that I could not start Windows on it. I also get this strange message :



I removed my graphics Card and I could overclock my RAM in the BIOS so it shouldn't be the Problem. The CPU has normal temps. I tried to put in my SSD back into my former PC but it's not booting completely now and the screen remains black.

Now you would say that I need to slot in a different SSD and give it a try. The issue is that I don't have any spare SSD lying around otherwise, I would have tried to put it in. What advice do you have for me GAF ? Thanks in advance.

You built a new PC and expect an old install of Windows to work? You might need a fresh install of Windows.
 

mhayze

Member
I'm planning on upgrading my PC this fall (currently have an old gtx660ti, and i5 2500K) but I'm curious if I can get away with keeping my old RAM, to save on money.

I currently have 8GBs (maybe 16 I forgot) of 1333 RAM.

Would that RAM be a bottleneck if I'm planning on getting the GTX 1070 and an i5 6600K?

Sell the RAM when you sell the CPU / mobo. In every way, keeping it will be a compromise.
 
I'm planning on upgrading my PC this fall (currently have an old gtx660ti, and i5 2500K) but I'm curious if I can get away with keeping my old RAM, to save on money.

I currently have 8GBs (maybe 16 I forgot) of 1333 RAM.

Would that RAM be a bottleneck if I'm planning on getting the GTX 1070 and an i5 6600K?



Sell the RAM when you sell the CPU / mobo. In every way, keeping it will be a compromise.
You have DDR3 RAM, your new setup needs DDR4.
It won't work in your new motherboard.
 
I had to replace a motherboard recently in my PC as it went faulty and dealt with license issues myself.

Windows 10 will require verification of your license and presume its a new PC once you switch boards. You will get a pop-up asking you to either input a new license or call support to verify info(if same PC). I just called the given number, which linked me to a special MS website on my phone from the call. Inputted a few ID #'s provided to me and I was up and running. A bit of a pain, but took all of like 7 minutes.

Good to know.

Any drivers issues? Once got the license recovered, did you reinstall windows and start from a clean slate?
 
Okay guys, so I have a Corsair Strafe RGB keyboard which is equipped w/ USB pass-through (there's a USB input on the top of the keyboard). In order to utilize this feature, there's two USB outputs on the end of the keyboard's wire and both have to be plugged in.

I use my PC in my living room and have the keyboard connected via a USB extension. If I wanted to use my Logitech F310 wired controller through the keyboard's USB port (for 2d platformers and such), can I just plug both the keyboard's outputs into a USB splitter of some sort? I'd rather not have two extension cords running across my living room, and don't want to splurge on a new wireless gamepad.

Also, if so would I need something like this:

81j1TYALbYL._SY355_.jpg


or would something this simple work:

cha_14_usb_spl.jpg
 

ElyrionX

Member
I am currently running an i5 2500k with 8GB RAM and a 560Ti on a 1200p monitor.

I am thinking of building a new rig right now (will probably re-use my case, PSU and storage HDDs) but since I don't play much games these days, would just changing the GPU to a 1070 be a more cost effective upgrade option? How much would I be bottlenecked by my current CPU and RAM?

And what if I upgrade my monitor to 27" 1440? Will I be able to get 60fps at 1440 on high settings with the 2500k and a 1070 GPU?
 

kuYuri

Member
I am currently running an i5 2500k with 8GB RAM and a 560Ti on a 1200p monitor.

I am thinking of building a new rig right now (will probably re-use my case, PSU and storage HDDs) but since I don't play much games these days, would just changing the GPU to a 1070 be a more cost effective upgrade option? How much would I be bottlenecked by my current CPU and RAM?

And what if I upgrade my monitor to 27" 1440? Will I be able to get 60fps at 1440 on high settings with the 2500k and a 1070 GPU?

This video makes me think you will get respectable performance at 1080p in some demanding games from the past few years. The video uses a Titan X, but since the 1070 is roughly Titan X levels, you can more or less extrapolate similar performance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZ_5p9wd2dk
 

hateradio

The Most Dangerous Yes Man
Okay guys, so I have a Corsair Strafe RGB keyboard which is equipped w/ USB pass-through (there's a USB input on the top of the keyboard). In order to utilize this feature, there's two USB outputs on the end of the keyboard's wire and both have to be plugged in.

I use my PC in my living room and have the keyboard connected via a USB extension. If I wanted to use my Logitech F310 wired controller through the keyboard's USB port (for 2d platformers and such), can I just plug both the keyboard's outputs into a USB splitter of some sort? I'd rather not have two extension cords running across my living room, and don't want to splurge on a new wireless gamepad.
It's odd that you'd have to have both ports connected. I assume that it just has an internal HUB, but I'd get the Amazon one with three ports and forget about using the keyboard's pass through. :p
 
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