I think you just need to tinker more. Take out the mobo so you can move it around. You should only need a screwdriver to be honest. I got faittthhhhhh. I can't help you (unless you live in Taiwan or maybe video chat but that is ackward) as I can't really see it. What is the exact case and model?
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I think you just need to tinker more. Take out the mobo so you can move it around. You should only need a screwdriver to be honest. I got faittthhhhhh. I can't help you (unless you live in Taiwan or maybe video chat but that is ackward) as I can't really see it. What is the exact case and model?
=) you've been awesome but I'm talking about the front. The mobo is out but every screw that would fasten the front panel is not a typical flat or Philips head screw.
Also as I added to my previous post these fans are too large for the case anyways. =/
Corsair Carbide 200R is the case.
Ah well that solves that. Should be enough to cover the flow.
What is the case model #? I can do some research.
Here is my case:
http://www.microcenter.com/product/438345/Carbide_Series_200R_Windowed_Compact_ATX_Case
I appreciate you being willing to help but please don't go out of your way.
Going out of my way would be driving twenty minutes north to see if they got this in person so I can tinker.
=p
AND I am building my friends today and he has the 400R! So I will see if it is the same..
Yep, front panel comes off which gives you access to some screws.
Just watched a review that confirmed the front panel isn't removable on the 200R. What if I remove the back fans and install the two fans on the top?
I was told the back is still a better choice. But I don't know if having two good ones top would be helpful as the air might immediately get sucked out.
I see and that makes sense. Looks like I'll be looking to upgrade case sooner than later.
Many thanks to you for taking the time to help me out. =)
NippleViking
Banned
Per this build, does this have integrated Wifi support, or will I need some extra adapter? Will probably be on Wifi for a few months, before switching to ethernet.
Aztechnology
Member
You'd need a wireless card, or USB adapter. Which honestly you should do anyway, as the on-board Wifi is usually not great on motherboards.
He has the mid 200R turns out. Same as yours. If you take out the HDD/SSD you can take it off. We just changed his.
Finally done. Need to sleep but will finish with the software side tomorrow.
Thank you for all the help guys, can't wait to really start going with this.
Edit:
Nice! Will need to get different fans first but that's going to be down the line.
Thank you for all the help guys, can't wait to really start going with this.
Edit:
Nice! Will need to get different fans first but that's going to be down the line.
yo so does anyone else know wtf is up with GPU manufacturors and using like 8 diferent screw sets on the card?
Just got done installing an EVGA hybrid cooler on my 980ti, and it was a pain in the ass due both to how cheap the screws (one of the 1.5mm hex on the front of the card striped out as soon as I put a touch of pressure on it
ffs...) were and having to buy 2 different screwdriver sets to get the bastard open because the 2mm hex screw they used on the side was so weird the first set I used wasn't able to get it open.
Totally worth it, though. Booting up my rig and seeing my gpu idling at like 30 degrees was mind boggling.
Just got done installing an EVGA hybrid cooler on my 980ti, and it was a pain in the ass due both to how cheap the screws (one of the 1.5mm hex on the front of the card striped out as soon as I put a touch of pressure on it
ffs...) were and having to buy 2 different screwdriver sets to get the bastard open because the 2mm hex screw they used on the side was so weird the first set I used wasn't able to get it open. Totally worth it, though. Booting up my rig and seeing my gpu idling at like 30 degrees was mind boggling.
lostsupper
Banned
Move your cooler fan to the other side.
super-famicom
Member
Yeah, with the way it's positioned, it is gonna blow hot air from the heatsink into the center of the case, and not out towards the exhaust fan in the rear.
OK cool will do, thanks guys. Definitely wasn't think on that one. =)
Hint, put quotes around your images so they aren't huge!
Also ours look almost the same:
Now to move on cable tying and management.
Thing is I hear no beeps, I didn't find a speaker thing in the mobo packaging...
Jezbollah
Member
The Hamburglar
Banned
UKers note these codes dont work for us
You could import from Amazon.com
I just finished my Broadwell-E/Pascal (6900K/1080) build. I'm coming from many great years of use out of my i7-920, and a GTX 670. The 920 was such a fantastic CPU.
I decided on minimal levels of lighting. It comes off a little as blue in the images, but they're white LEDs. I may even turn down the GPU LEDs further.
It's a little crazy that nearly everything (MB, GPU, Case, and Fans) had LEDs of some kind. I purposely disabled the Primo's blue LED strip, PWR button LED, and HDD activity LED. I also replaced the 2x front blue LED fans with white versions.
I have to say the Enthoo Primo has to be the best case I've ever worked in. It looks fantastic as well. My fan setup consists of 2x front intake, 2x botton intake, and 1x top rear outtake.
I decided on minimal levels of lighting. It comes off a little as blue in the images, but they're white LEDs. I may even turn down the GPU LEDs further.
It's a little crazy that nearly everything (MB, GPU, Case, and Fans) had LEDs of some kind. I purposely disabled the Primo's blue LED strip, PWR button LED, and HDD activity LED. I also replaced the 2x front blue LED fans with white versions.
I have to say the Enthoo Primo has to be the best case I've ever worked in. It looks fantastic as well. My fan setup consists of 2x front intake, 2x botton intake, and 1x top rear outtake.
The Hamburglar
Banned
Does that cpu upgrade really make a difference? I have an i7 930 overclocked and I'm thinking of going sky lake soon.
Skylake still represents best value for gaming, and overall. It's not going to make much of a difference for most people. Unless you have reason to, have a very flexible budget, or just find the idea of going from four physical cores to the same unappealing, then Skylake will do just fine.
3 years ago I posted in here declaring my intention to build a computer. Virgin here. Other priorities took over and I disappeared. Back again and doing my research from the ground-up this time: What exactly is a motherboard?what's the functional difference between a HDD and SSD? etc etc. Really basic shit. I've never really been into computers. I've been able to use them well enough, but never delved into what's going on inside. Pretty neat figuring everything out...finally.
Anyway I'll have some questions soon about an exact build but meanwhile...
If I've got an 'excellent' (though not enthusiast) build, how significant is the energy cost per month? I'm coming from regular laptop use. Will I notice a difference each month or is it a matter of a few bucks/quid?
Anyway I'll have some questions soon about an exact build but meanwhile...
If I've got an 'excellent' (though not enthusiast) build, how significant is the energy cost per month? I'm coming from regular laptop use. Will I notice a difference each month or is it a matter of a few bucks/quid?
I'm still on nehalem too (960), and I say no unless you're shooting for 120/144 fps and/or 4k. If you're at 1080p60hz then you still really don't have a need to upgrade yet. I mean yeah stuff like native usb3.0, ddr4 (coming from 1066 ddr3), etc is nice but that's a ton of money to do a rebuild for that unless you plan on moving upwards in the display area too to really take advantage of the gains.
At this point I've given up on Intel and am just waiting on my mobo to fry out. God bless this cpu, Lord knows I had no idea it'd be the last cpu I'd buy for probably 10 years when I bought it.
Lockjaw333
Member
Finally done. Need to sleep but will finish with the software side tomorrow.
Thank you for all the help guys, can't wait to really start going with this.
Is that the $99 for prime members gigabyte board? Im seeing lots of people with it in this thread.
I am going to upgrade my r9 270x during the next month or so. At first I was going to get the RX 480 or GTX 1060 but there is a R9 Nano available for similar price that those 2. (new, around 50 euros more expensive) Are the newer cards still a better choice than the older nano?
drotahorror
Member
And mine looks similar too while we're at it hah.
Yeah there's some dust and my cable management is non existent. This pic was took about 3 weeks after I built it. I was just putting in a hard drive (well taking one out since I got sent the wrong one) *Never could figure out how to properly put an SSD in those corsair cases w/o a 3.5" adapter.
This is the computer I replaced
To those who own or have built in an s340 case: I'm still rather confused as to whether or not I installed the motherboard incorrectly with respect to the standoffs. As as I can tell, they are pre installed so by simply screwing the mobo into the raised holes, I'm covered. However, the case came with one standoff in a separate baggie that I did not use and am unsure where it goes. Also, my mobo has six holes and I've only used 5 as one of the screw holes doesn't have anything to screw into on the case. Pic of unscrewed open holr you can see because of the light: http://i.imgur.com/rpS99N5.jpg
Edit: judging from size of the included standoff, I bet if I were to take the whole thing off I could put it in the case then screw the unscrewed in hole linked above on the mobo... thinking about just leaving it becuase i have 5 of 6 holes screwed in, so I imagine it isnt the hugest deal.
Edit: judging from size of the included standoff, I bet if I were to take the whole thing off I could put it in the case then screw the unscrewed in hole linked above on the mobo... thinking about just leaving it becuase i have 5 of 6 holes screwed in, so I imagine it isnt the hugest deal.
Oops sorry! I knew about quoting but totally didn't think about it since I was posting from my phone. Should be better now, thanks for the heads up.
Yeah it's the Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 LGA 1151 board and can be found on amazon for $89 if you're a prime member. Working fine for me but I guess there's an issue where it can arrive doa.
lostsupper
Banned
Without any other information about your use case, any answer you get here would be a guess.
Use an online calculator to estimate real power draw at idle and under load. Estimate how much of each your pc will see. Multiply those watts by what your power utility charges per kW/h.
super-famicom
Member
I bought the S340 for my build, though I haven't built it yet, since I'm waiting for my thermal paste to arrive.
But the standoffs do come pre-installed and they give you a spare. From videos I've watched, not all motherboards have the same hole patterns for the standoffs. It helps if you put the motherboard on a piece of paper and use a pencil to fill in the holes where the standoffs would go. Then you put the piece of paper in the motherboard to make sure the standoffs line up and adjust accordingly.
Its fine to have missed one of the motherboard screws.
As for the stand offs, without them the IO shield will not line up, so if that is lined up then forget about it.
opticalmace
Member
How are there taxes on a used card? And that you can use a gift card towards it?
If new I would say go for it, though I'm not 100% up on how much 1070s go for there. Used, I dunno.
ItsTheNew
I believe any game made before 1997 is "essentially cave man art."
I'm in the us. Brand new 1070's are at an eyegoungingly high $450. This after everything is said and done will be $260.
If I use the $100 giftcard towards a brand new 1070 it'll be about $400 after taxes ATM.
opticalmace
Member
Where is the gift card to? Does this card come with a warranty? I dont get where you're buying it.
ItsTheNew
I believe any game made before 1997 is "essentially cave man art."
A giftcard is store credit on a card. The used GPU has a 90 day warranty.
Alright this is what I thought. Thanks o much for your help! Should be finishing up the build tonight!
SCB3
Member
Need help on adding better sound to my build -
So, I am planning on adding a new sound card with speakers/headphones for nighttime gaming, what are some good options for 5.1 to 7.1 audio?
Current on board sound is from an ASUS m5A97 2.0 evo
Also is there an easier way to add more sata hdd's internally, I have 2 inside and use another 2tb HDD as an external on a USB 3.0 port, I would like to have it all inside my PC if possible
So, I am planning on adding a new sound card with speakers/headphones for nighttime gaming, what are some good options for 5.1 to 7.1 audio?
Current on board sound is from an ASUS m5A97 2.0 evo
Also is there an easier way to add more sata hdd's internally, I have 2 inside and use another 2tb HDD as an external on a USB 3.0 port, I would like to have it all inside my PC if possible
opticalmace
Member
Up to you. I'd be a little put off by the short warranty personally.
That depends on what better sound is to you.
In my opinion, a sound card today is near pointless unless you need virtual 3D tech such as CMSS-3D and Dolby Headphones. While significantly better than headsets with multiple drivers, they're not what they used to be. Today they only take in 5.1/7.1 information and muddy the sound to achieve their results. In the early 00s, we had APIs (DirectSound3D, OpenAL) that would provide accurate positional information of any 3D position around you, and the result was much more convincing and of better quality.
I would recommend an external USB DAC (and Amp if required) with a good pair of open headphones, ideally one with a decent soundstage. The ODAC for instance, or O2/ODAC if you need the Amp. The Schiit stack is as good too.
SCB3
Member
Thanks, at the moment I use a pair of Sony PS4 Wireless Gold Headphones, they're great for wireless stereo sound and really comfortable,
Any programs out there that can improve virtual sound?
I have a set of AKG K550's and an onboard soundcard. What stack would you recommend for that type of headset?
Bloodember
Member
Most heatsinks come with thermal paste preinstalled, you probably don't need the paste your waiting for.
BizzyBum
Member
I'm a real beginner when it comes to overclocking, so how exactly do you do it? I heard it's easier to do nowadays than in the past so why not.
I have a stock i7 6800K and GTX 1080. I'm looking to get the 6800K to 4.5GHz which I hear is not hard to do and for the 1080 essentially the same sort of overclock where it's "safe" where I don't have to play with voltages and worry about temps for hours.
Is overclocking RAM even a thing? If so, is it worth it?
Thanks for any help.
I have a stock i7 6800K and GTX 1080. I'm looking to get the 6800K to 4.5GHz which I hear is not hard to do and for the 1080 essentially the same sort of overclock where it's "safe" where I don't have to play with voltages and worry about temps for hours.
Is overclocking RAM even a thing? If so, is it worth it?
Thanks for any help.
For the CPU, go into your BIOS and dig around (probably a section in your mobo manual). I wouldn't recommend OCing unless you're using a non-stock cooler. Otherwise it's really easy to do it, just change the clock modifier. I think you can mess with the RAM there, too. I've never done it though.
As for the GPU, there are a bunch of different programs you can use to overclock. I've used Nvidia Inspector and MSI Afterburner. I prefer the latter. There's a simple dial you use to manually change the clocks. Really straightforward. You can set a manual fan curve as well. I did that when overclocking my Titan Black and it runs really cool now (~34c idle and 75c under load) at the cost of slightly more noise.
Just make sure you're monitoring your temps on both the CPU and GPU. You'll probably want to stress test too (Prime95 is a good way to test the processor).
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