Bloodember
Member
Here you go. The case is a stand in as that is personal preference. Windows can be had at lower prices from some websites.
What resolution?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
Here you go. The case is a stand in as that is personal preference. Windows can be had at lower prices from some websites.
What resolution?
Thanks. Wouldn't it make sense to wait for the new Intel CPUs then?
I'm planning on a new 1600x build with that same motherboard (and a 1070 I already own) in the next couple of weeks. I was thinking of getting 3200mhz ram though. Is it worth the extra money if I can fit it in the budget?
Will be gaming at 1080p/60 and also VR.
Lactose_Intolerant
Member
If you think you will be able to hit 3200 with your ram with that board, then yes it is worth it. I would do some research on this subject though, I know a lot of boards for Ryzen can't hit that even with bios updates.
Good to know, time to start digging through some reviews.
Celcius
°Temp. member
How long have you had the card?
If it was DOA out of the box or you've only had it like a week then I'd go to newegg. If it's been like 2 years then through evga.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
If you're talking about X370-F, that's rated for DDR4 3200.
I'm thinking about the b350 board https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-B350-F-GAMING/
I'm seeing "some" people with success at 3200 but I'm starting to think the benefit isn't worth the risk of problems and troubleshooting I might run into. Something slower from the qvl seems like the safer way to go.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Looks solid.
Likely may not have done as much research as you but 3000Mhz+ support for this board was said to be "excellent" by Bit-Tech: https://www.bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/asus-rog-strix-b350-f-gaming-review/9/
Maybe do the mid-point and go 3000 if you're concerned but sounds like 3200 would be fine.
3000 seems wise considering my needs aren't all that demanding and my tolerance for incompatibility problems is at an all time low these days. Ok I feel better now and ready to pull the trigger. Thank you all.
RandomExpletive
Member
Deciding between going cheap (Asus - PB277Q) or going big (AOC - AG271QX.)
I have a feeling I'm just gonna pick the AOC - AG271QX, but I'm definitely gonna sleep on it for now... Hopefully the price stays at 400 this weekend
I have a feeling I'm just gonna pick the AOC - AG271QX, but I'm definitely gonna sleep on it for now... Hopefully the price stays at 400 this weekend
DOA, yeah. Just received it yesterday, never worked.
Didn't get an answer a few pages back, maybe someone can help me?: I "reserved" win 10 during the upgrade... debacle, but I'm still running on win 7. For my next build since it's a 7700k I'll need win10 so I was wondering if my win7 key will work or if I need to transform it/do something?
Bloodember
Member
You can try just installing Windows 10 then using your Windows 7 key. If it doesn't work then you'll just have to install Windows 7 then upgrade to Windows 10.
longdi
Banned
Last i read, you can still get a free upgrade from win7 to win10.
Once you got your win10 key, you dont need to install win7 first
http://www.pcgamer.com/you-can-still-upgrade-to-windows-10-for-free-thanks-to-loophole/
ColdDeckEd
Member
Definitely go through the retailer then.
RumblingRosco
Member
If your want a TN, 1440p, and 144Hz as well, the Dell S2716DG is great. Often goes on sale too.
Sure, what are the full specs?
Don't think there is any reason to wait for new CPUs to arrive.
I was thinking of jumping in for gen 2 vr, which should see noticable increases to screen res. So i wasnt sure how demanding that would be.
Cpu: i7 875k
Gpu: gigabyte gtx 670
ssd: sandisk ultra 2 480gb
Ram: CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Sound: xonar dx
Case: antec p183
Mobo: ASUS P7P55D-E Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Psu: CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI
Might sell monitor too
ASUS VH236H Black 23"
ISee
Member
i7 875k ~ 110-130€/$
Mainboard = ? probably 50-80 €/$
GTX 670 ~ 90-100€/$
Sandisk ultra 2 480 GB ~130-150 €/$
RAM ~ 90 - 100€/$
Sound card ~ 50€/$
case = ?
PSU = ?
Total: 520 - 610 €/$
But keep the SSD and reuse it.
VR '2' is such a thing. No idea when it's coming or even IF it is coming. OR seems to target the GearVR crowd with their next product in 2018 (PC free Headset with a build in snapdragon for $200). Valve is working on a new motion controller, but there is no word about a new headset (currently) and the future of PSVR is unknown (also some rumors about a Move 2 controller from sony, but again nothing about a new headset...)
The 4k headsets from asia are nice, but only support 60Hz which is a big problem.
Oops forgot a few things
Case: antec p183
Mobo: ASUS P7P55D-E Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Psu: CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI
Valve has their knuckle controller and gen 2 lighthouse ready to go. Just need a headset manufacturer at this point. So maybe 1-2 years
Frankfurter
Member
It really depends how soon you wanna build your PC and how much you'd like to spend.
RumblingRosco
Member
Finished turning my 1080 Ti SC Black into a water-cooled hybrid! A little scary, I'll kid you not, but I'm happy it worked out in the end.
Still testing, but it seems like my load temperatures in Valley benchmarks dropped from ~70C to about 32C after 20 minutes in each. Need to let the water cooling run a little longer though to let the water equilibrate, but I'd be surprised if it goes above 45C. I'm pretty psyched to say the least, especially cramming this all into a mATX case.
Still testing, but it seems like my load temperatures in Valley benchmarks dropped from ~70C to about 32C after 20 minutes in each. Need to let the water cooling run a little longer though to let the water equilibrate, but I'd be surprised if it goes above 45C. I'm pretty psyched to say the least, especially cramming this all into a mATX case.
Phatosaurus
Member
Anyone had issues connecting through an Ethernet cable with a new PC/motherboard? Because I'm well and truly stumped right now.
I've switched cables, googled around and so on but I don't know what to do still.
I've run the troubleshoot and it just says to plug an Ethernet cable in, but obviously I'm not that thick and I've already plugged it in and there's a light on indicating that it is indeed connected.
Edit: Nevermind, fixed it. Had to download the drivers on another PC and transfer them over.
Edit 2: Possibly I am that thick.
I've switched cables, googled around and so on but I don't know what to do still.
I've run the troubleshoot and it just says to plug an Ethernet cable in, but obviously I'm not that thick and I've already plugged it in and there's a light on indicating that it is indeed connected.
Edit: Nevermind, fixed it. Had to download the drivers on another PC and transfer them over.
Edit 2: Possibly I am that thick.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
Need some advice guys.
I am doing a lot of research on trying to build my first gaming PC. Mining really screw us up, but yesterday I was able to buy this card from Amazon for $380
ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 O8GB Dual-fan OC Edition 4K/VR Ready Dual HDMI DP 1.4 Gaming Graphics Card (DUAL-GTX1070-O8G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JHQSZ40/?tag=neogaf0e-20
It sold out within an hour. Will only ship in 1 to 2 weeks, so I have some time to decide.
The lowest price at Amazon was $ 364 in December 2016, so I guess the price was good
1. Any feedback about this particular card?
2. Should I wait a bit longer for black Friday, hoping the supply will be better.
3. Should I wait for 1080 price drop?
4. This was my first conponent bought, lol, so if I am keeping it I have to start buying the other stuff
Thanks
I am doing a lot of research on trying to build my first gaming PC. Mining really screw us up, but yesterday I was able to buy this card from Amazon for $380
ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 O8GB Dual-fan OC Edition 4K/VR Ready Dual HDMI DP 1.4 Gaming Graphics Card (DUAL-GTX1070-O8G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JHQSZ40/?tag=neogaf0e-20
It sold out within an hour. Will only ship in 1 to 2 weeks, so I have some time to decide.
The lowest price at Amazon was $ 364 in December 2016, so I guess the price was good
1. Any feedback about this particular card?
2. Should I wait a bit longer for black Friday, hoping the supply will be better.
3. Should I wait for 1080 price drop?
4. This was my first conponent bought, lol, so if I am keeping it I have to start buying the other stuff
Thanks
Jeff Stephen
Member
Would anyone perhaps be interested in a 1070 FTW for $415 shipped? If you're in the NY metro area then I'll bring it down to $400. PM if interested.
ISee
Member
Case: antec p183 --> 70-150€/$
Good case, but most people want something with glass and LEDs today. Depends on the buyer.
Mobo: ASUS P7P55D-E Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard --> 70-100 €/$
Psu: CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI ~40-60€/$
1060 6GB is about as fast as a GTX 980 (980 is faster at very high overclocks though). The 1060 3GB is about 10-15% slower than the 6GB variant, but the real problem are the 3GB of VRAM.
My current build is kinda old at this point but I was considering a GPU upgrade (1060?) from my AMD 7950. I'd hope that I'd say some improvement by doing so but given what else I have do you think limitations of that hardware would hold me back to the point where it wouldn't be worth it? I know that's pretty subjective but any opinions would be appreciated. Here's my current build:
CPU: Intel - Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($275.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock - Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($62.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Kingston - HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($126.09 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 840 Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($186.90 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.00 @ B&H)
Video Card: Gigabyte - Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card
Case: Antec - Three Hundred ATX Mid Tower Case ($199.48 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Power Supply: Corsair - Enthusiast 650W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
CPU: Intel - Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($275.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock - Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($62.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Kingston - HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($126.09 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 840 Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($186.90 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.00 @ B&H)
Video Card: Gigabyte - Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card
Case: Antec - Three Hundred ATX Mid Tower Case ($199.48 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Power Supply: Corsair - Enthusiast 650W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
ISee
Member
What kind of crash (e.g. restarts, bluescreens) and in what kind of situation.
It's not as bad as you make it out to be. A 3570k is still able to push for 60 fps in most games, especially overclocked. You may run into some drops to the mid 50s in some scenarios and games, but it's still a valid gaming CPU. Going for a 1060 6GB will definitely boost your performance and you should be able to easily go for 1080p@60 fps on high(ish) settings.
Is it normal for steam downloads to kill the pc performance?
Downloading Rise of the Tomb Raider and my pc is very choppy, slow, mouse jumping around, typing this is even laggy. I don't recall this happening on my old pc.
If I pause the download it goes away.
Downloading
Paused
Downloading Rise of the Tomb Raider and my pc is very choppy, slow, mouse jumping around, typing this is even laggy. I don't recall this happening on my old pc.
If I pause the download it goes away.
Downloading
Paused
Reposting from the AMD thread:
So what do you all think?
Tried to OC the memory to 2666MT/s but didn't have much luck with that...at 1.35V it seemed ok but got a BSOD after running a memory test for a while.....backed it back down to stock 2400MT/s @ 1.2V
So what do you all think?
Tried to OC the memory to 2666MT/s but didn't have much luck with that...at 1.35V it seemed ok but got a BSOD after running a memory test for a while.....backed it back down to stock 2400MT/s @ 1.2V
Typically, it happens when I'm doing general gaming. It's fairly random when it happens. It happened once at the initial load of ME: Andromeda before I even reached the main menu. Just now, It happened after the first few minutes of trying out Crysis 3. I've gone longer without crashes, but I'd have to test it more extensively. I've considered the possibility that the PSU and GPU are both a contributing factor when taken together.
Here's a pic I took just after Crysis 3 crashed, I had MSI Afterburner's OSD running in case it happened again. I don't know how useful it is, but I figured I'd post it just in case. Is there any other graph I should be looking at within Afterburner?
ISee
Member
CPU temperatures are a bit high, but not in the red area. If your PC reboots it is most probably your PSU (or overheating CPU if it just turns off). If the game just crashes to desktop I'd try reinstalling gpu drivers and check for stability under heavy load (memory, gpu and cpu). If it freezes it could be ram or drive related. You could also take a look at the windows event viewer, maybe there is a conflict somewhere.
crimsondynamics
Member
Okay, I'm about to bite the bullet and upgrade my gaming-only PC after a blackout fried three of my RAM banks on a Sandy Bridge i5 2600K / AsRock P67Extreme4 Gen3 and 4x4GB G.Skill RipJaws DDR3 1600 RAM I built nearly seven years ago. It's still more than enough to keep most of my games in the Ultra settings, having to only lower certain Battlefield 4 settings to Very High in order to achieve desirable framerates.
After reading the reviews, I am more inclined to go with Ryzen, so I specced a parts list of what would need to be replaced:
AMD Ryzen 5 1600X
GIGABYTE GA-AX370-GAMING 5
Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2666MHz (4x4GB)
My budget is roughly USD500.
What is salvageable from my current rig for the new build are:
2x AMD Radeon RX570 (in Crossfire)
Nvidia GT430 (for PhysX)
Silverstone Strider Essential 700W (80Plus Silver) PSU
240GB SSD
750GB Seagate Momentus XT
Currently, I have Windows 10 and some large, long-loading games on the SSD and smaller games on the 750GB drive.
The GA-AX370-GAMING 5 comes with an M.2 slot that supports both PCI-E and SATA. I was thinking of buying a Samsung 850 EVO M.2 128GB to boot from and only store Windows, Steam, Origin and some essential programs on it, and moving my large games to the 240GB SSD. I know the SATA M.2 isn't as fast as a PCI-E M.2, but I need the lanes for my 2x Crossfire / Nvidia PhysX combination. In any case, SATA SSDs are plenty fast for me at the moment anyhow.
I also know that this mainboard doesn't feature Wi-Fi but the computer is connected to the modem via LAN cable.
Does this sound like a good build for upgrading my current gaming-only rig? I don't do any sort of productivity on it - it is a dedicated gaming rig.
Now I know many on the blue team will say that an i5-7600K is faster for gaming - and it's generally true - but games aren't optimized for Ryzen and it seems that future games will benefit from more cores on the CPU.
Or, should I do something different? Should I just stick with what I have and buy a replacement mainboard (which I can get brand new for roughly USD250, and wait to see if Ryzen sticks around, or whether Coffee Lake provides a core / thread / value proposition that decidedly skews the equation back to Intel's favor?
Any suggestions welcome!
After reading the reviews, I am more inclined to go with Ryzen, so I specced a parts list of what would need to be replaced:
AMD Ryzen 5 1600X
GIGABYTE GA-AX370-GAMING 5
Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2666MHz (4x4GB)
My budget is roughly USD500.
What is salvageable from my current rig for the new build are:
2x AMD Radeon RX570 (in Crossfire)
Nvidia GT430 (for PhysX)
Silverstone Strider Essential 700W (80Plus Silver) PSU
240GB SSD
750GB Seagate Momentus XT
Currently, I have Windows 10 and some large, long-loading games on the SSD and smaller games on the 750GB drive.
The GA-AX370-GAMING 5 comes with an M.2 slot that supports both PCI-E and SATA. I was thinking of buying a Samsung 850 EVO M.2 128GB to boot from and only store Windows, Steam, Origin and some essential programs on it, and moving my large games to the 240GB SSD. I know the SATA M.2 isn't as fast as a PCI-E M.2, but I need the lanes for my 2x Crossfire / Nvidia PhysX combination. In any case, SATA SSDs are plenty fast for me at the moment anyhow.
I also know that this mainboard doesn't feature Wi-Fi but the computer is connected to the modem via LAN cable.
Does this sound like a good build for upgrading my current gaming-only rig? I don't do any sort of productivity on it - it is a dedicated gaming rig.
Now I know many on the blue team will say that an i5-7600K is faster for gaming - and it's generally true - but games aren't optimized for Ryzen and it seems that future games will benefit from more cores on the CPU.
Or, should I do something different? Should I just stick with what I have and buy a replacement mainboard (which I can get brand new for roughly USD250, and wait to see if Ryzen sticks around, or whether Coffee Lake provides a core / thread / value proposition that decidedly skews the equation back to Intel's favor?
Any suggestions welcome!
The symptoms you described is definitely freezing. Crysis 3 (and other games) froze in place, hence how I was able to take that picture with my phone above. I then have to hard reset it since it would never respond. I haven't seen it crash to desktop nor has the PC been rebooting on its own.
When you say drive related issues, do you mean my hard drive?
I suppose I can start running tests related to memory and see if my DDR3 sticks are showing its age.
While I do notice my CPU was getting in the 70s under load, I have yet to see it go any further up than that, so I can't imagine it's an overheating CPU.
I'm not sure how to read the Windows event viewer well, what should I be looking at specifically?
opticalmace
Member
Just ordered a 1TB 960 Evo off Amazon. Was looking at it yesterday and it dropped a bit today down to $447. Looking forward to having a nice M.2 drive.
Only downside is that to use it at full speed on my motherboard will disable 4 of my 6 SATA ports lol. Luckily I only need a couple devices so it won't be a problem.
Only downside is that to use it at full speed on my motherboard will disable 4 of my 6 SATA ports lol. Luckily I only need a couple devices so it won't be a problem.
littlegrasshopper
Member
Current Specs:
PC Gaf, I need some advice. I currently have my PC hooked up to a Sony XBR49X900E. I want to get the most of out my TV by upgrading my PC. I can currently do some 4K gaming with some games when lowering certain settings with 30-40fps. I can watch 4K videos with no problem depending on where its from. If it's a raw file my computer will chug but if its YouTube or a good mkv, it can run it fine.
I want to know if its worth it buying a GTX 1070 or 1080 without upgrading the rest of my rig? Will this be a pointless upgrade? Will my CPU hold the power of the new GPU back? Or should I wait till I can get a new CPU and motherboard?
Thanks in advance!
- i5-3570k
- 16gigs ddr3
- evga geforce gtx 980 oc
PC Gaf, I need some advice. I currently have my PC hooked up to a Sony XBR49X900E. I want to get the most of out my TV by upgrading my PC. I can currently do some 4K gaming with some games when lowering certain settings with 30-40fps. I can watch 4K videos with no problem depending on where its from. If it's a raw file my computer will chug but if its YouTube or a good mkv, it can run it fine.
I want to know if its worth it buying a GTX 1070 or 1080 without upgrading the rest of my rig? Will this be a pointless upgrade? Will my CPU hold the power of the new GPU back? Or should I wait till I can get a new CPU and motherboard?
Thanks in advance!
opticalmace
Member
Is it an i5-3570k or i7-3770k?
At 4k you probably want a new GPU...
If I were you I would check some specific benchmarks for the games you're interested in. Some are more CPU dependent than others. If you have a 3770k I'd probably just upgrade the GPU. If you have the 3570k then I'd determine based on the needs of the games you wanna play.
RumblingRosco
Member
I love the new build you plan to do. Is the 1600x that much better then a 1600 or could you get the 1600 to save some cash and over clock it?
rand0mZer0
Banned
I ended up contacting Gigabyte and they had no problems connecting everything with the same graphics card I had.
So I brought out an old Samsung panel I still have and sure enough, plugged it in and both the monitor and the Samsung worked fine.
I'm guessing it's the HDMI cable I'm using with the LG that is causing it because it can't be anything else.
Thank you gamma for the help, as well as everyone else who lent a hand. I appreciate it.
Hey guys, I'm looking to build a PC for my aunt. It's for general use, but also some gaming @1080p, and probably some streaming to a Steam Link box. I want to keep it at a cool $1,000 USD.
Here's what I picked out, and I'm looking for suggestions.
Originally, I had the Gigabyte GTX 1060 Windforce for ~$230, but it sold out already, so I'm in a bit of a pickle on that front.
Here's what I picked out, and I'm looking for suggestions.
Originally, I had the Gigabyte GTX 1060 Windforce for ~$230, but it sold out already, so I'm in a bit of a pickle on that front.
Bought myself a new monitor recently, this is the one: Dell 24 Gaming Monitor - S2417DG
Since I bought that new monitor, I'm looking at a whole new system because I'm still on a 2600K CPU. I want to piece out this system, so I'm taking the 980TI I have in here along with my hard drives and putting it in my new system, so that's why they are missing on my part list.
The part list is below, I'm looking for heavy gaming/streaming with this. I want to see if I can get it as close to $1000 CAD if possible before taxes so that I can save up some money for a new video card in the future. The 7700K is probably the only thing I won't compromise too much on because I like having a CPU for a few years before upgrading, so I tend to buy the "best" I can at the moment. I might drop it down to the 7600K if needed, but I'm trying not to.
My price/part list is below:
Since I bought that new monitor, I'm looking at a whole new system because I'm still on a 2600K CPU. I want to piece out this system, so I'm taking the 980TI I have in here along with my hard drives and putting it in my new system, so that's why they are missing on my part list.
The part list is below, I'm looking for heavy gaming/streaming with this. I want to see if I can get it as close to $1000 CAD if possible before taxes so that I can save up some money for a new video card in the future. The 7700K is probably the only thing I won't compromise too much on because I like having a CPU for a few years before upgrading, so I tend to buy the "best" I can at the moment. I might drop it down to the 7600K if needed, but I'm trying not to.
My price/part list is below:
If you're OK with ebay then you can get faster RAM for just a few dollars more. Two of us in this thread have bought from this seller without a problem:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-Ven...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
ISee
Member
Yes I meant your hard drive, but also start looking into your memory. It could of course be something else though, but starting with thise two makes sense in your case. Just move or install the game to another drive. For memory try installing one module at once. You can also use software.
The event viewer could give you a clue what caused a crash if you look at the timestamp of the crash.