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[nightmare-slain]

so that will give me at elast 3 years of gaming on 1080p 60fps on high settings righ?

i don't know about 3 years but right now and for a while yet that's good for 1080p 60fps. if you really want to future proof then you'd probably be better with an i7 you can overclock such as a 6700K or 7700K. Maybe even a Ryzen CPU.

 

[opticalmace]

I bet 1440p 144hz would look great but this is exactly why I'm not going after higher framerates. It's too expensive to achieve. Like someone said even a 1080 will struggle. If you're serious about it then you'll need a 1080ti and a gsync monitor would help because not even a 1080 ti can hit 144fps in most games at 1440p but it's the closest you'll get right now. If you do hit 144 then you'll struggle to go back to 60.

Sometimes I feel like 60hz is too slow but I'm perfectly fine with it. My wallet thanks me too.

I think that's a bit extreme. If you are willing to turn down a few settings you can have a great experience with something like a 1070. In my experience most of the benefit of high refresh rate displays is there around the 90 Hz or so mark, so that is around what I aim for (unless it's not demanding and can push it higher).

 

[Samaritan]

Finalized the rig I'm building for my girlfriend and started ordering parts:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $209.99)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $93.98)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($131.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Best Buy)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SSC GAMING Video Card (Purchased For $296.99)
Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $99.98)
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $37.99)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Best Buy)
Monitor: Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($84.99)
Keyboard: Logitech - G410 Atlas Spectrum Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For $69.95)
Mouse: Logitech - G203 Prodigy Wired Optical Mouse (Purchased For $29.99)
Headphones: SteelSeries - Arctis 5 7.1 Channel Headset ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1298.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-21 12:00 EDT-0400

Huge thanks to Bloodember, LelouchZero, kuYuri, Renekton, and Booker.DeWitt for steering me in the right direction and for all of the useful suggestions/changes! Thanks guys/gals!

 

[kmfdmpig]

My current part list..


Probably can ignore the pricing (I'm in SEA region), but any potential problem? I have a 3TB 3.5" HDD that I'll probably reuse also.

Anyone here has the Zotac 1070 Amp? Do they have vrm problem like the 1080ti amp extreme? I wanted the msi 1070 gaming 8g, but can't find it anywhere lol

Also, is it safe to put sticker on top of graphic card's backplate? Just in case I don't like the yellow stripes haha

Unless you really need 32GB of RAM you might be better off spending that on a faster CPU or GPU. For most people that would give a better bang for the buck.

 

[bomblord1]

Not sure if this is possible but my brother is looking for a VR ready laptop (aka 1060 minimum) for under $1k

Is that possible? He's a student so he can get student discounts.

 

[rtcn63]

Not sure if this is possible but my brother is looking for a VR ready laptop (aka 1060 minimum) for under $1k

Is that possible? He's a student so he can get student discounts.

Alienware R13 or 15 maybe? Assuming the student discount applies to Dell and is uh... very significant.

 

[bomblord1]

Alienware R13 or 15 maybe? Assuming the student discount applies to Dell and is uh... very significant.

Thanks, I checked it out and even with a student discount it seems the cheapest you can get a 1060 variant of an alienware laptop is $1500

 

[darkslayer101]

pcgaf I'm stuck between 2 mobos... msi z270 gaming m7 or maximus IX Hero

not sure which one to go with... the latter is on sale at newegg but I already bought an msi card and want to go all msi...idk i am stuck lol

 

[bomblord1]

pcgaf I'm stuck between 2 mobos... msi z270 gaming m7 or maximus IX Hero

not sure which one to go with... the latter is on sale at newegg but I already bought an msi card and want to go all msi...idk i am stuck lol

If they're both z270's and you're worried about performance or parts compatibility there's nothing that should work on one board that won't on another (as far as basic components go). You also won't magically get better performance out of one either in a normal build. My advice is to go with the cheaper one because the performance won't change.

I can only see a few scenarios where one might be better. Ex. if you're trying to color code your build, you want all your LED's to run on the same lighting software, or something similar. In that case just get whatever you prefer

 

[Arex]

Unless you really need 32GB of RAM you might be better off spending that on a faster CPU or GPU. For most people that would give a better bang for the buck.

Yeah the 32GB of RAM will cost quite a bit here haha, but I figure what I do (multitasking of 3D modeling, Zbrush, Photoshop, Unreal Engine, game art stuff) would benefit from the RAM

The GTX 1070 should be enough to drive dual 1080p monitors yah?

 

[bomblord1]

Yeah the 32GB of RAM will cost quite a bit here haha, but I figure what I do (multitasking of 3D modeling, Zbrush, Photoshop, Unreal Engine, game art stuff) would benefit from the RAM

The GTX 1070 should be enough to drive dual 1080p monitors yah?

An Intel Atom iGPU will run 2 1080p monitors. So yes.

 

[Bloodember]

I've got 16GB's of ram.

I went into Windows, and did ''Error Checking'' on my HDD which came up with nothing. Do I need a more in-depth health check app on my HDD?

Appreciate the help.

Edit: Downloaded Western Digital's health check app, and after using their quick test, it said it was good. I'll give their extended test a go tomorrow when I have more time, however its looking like it may be the 16GB Samsung RAM. :/

Edit 2: To add, Rainbow Six Siege plays with nil issues/lag for 20 minutes before it crashes.

Yeah, your next step would be doing a memery test on your RAM. If that checks out fine, we'll go onto the next item.

 

[Arex]

pcgaf I'm stuck between 2 mobos... msi z270 gaming m7 or maximus IX Hero

not sure which one to go with... the latter is on sale at newegg but I already bought an msi card and want to go all msi...idk i am stuck lol

Whoa the Hero has double number of the usb ports. I'd pick that if the price is similar haha

An Intel Atom iGPU will run 2 1080p monitors. So yes.

lol I should've known.

 

[RumblingRosco]

I'm taking apart my 1080 Ti this weekend to attach an AIO liquid cooler to it. I've watched a bunch of videos and am confident I can do it, but oh man, I will be taking pictures each step of the way out of fear I forget where a screw goes in case I need to reassemble it. I found at least one other person that used my case with the cooler I plan to use, so my only concern was that it wouldn't fit, but it seems that won't be an issue. I measured things out a bit this morning before I take it all apart I think I'm in the clear.

Even got a stupid 4mm hex socket to remove the dumb-ass nuts that EVGA throws in the back of these things.

 

[hitme]

Best CPU for editing (+high/med gaming)? Looking at 1700X right now since it's on sale for $290.

 

[GodofWine]

I need help guys

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-g1...ed/5614800.p?skuId=5614800&productCategoryId=

$746 bucks for a open box like new, with 1 year warranty fromBB.

It seems to be super worth it considering 1060 6gb, SSD 500gb, 16gb ram.

what do you guys say?

I saw you asking if this would give you 3 years of 1080p / 60 gaming, and I'd say easily. Of course if you are playing bleeding edge graphics games it may bog down somewhere in year 3.

I have a g4560/1050ti combo and expect 3 years of 1080p/60 high gaming on it. Esports-ish titles like CSGO, OW, Paladins Im getting 200+, 100+, and 120+ frames on ultra, and in PUBG I get 55-70 on medium/mixed settings.

I say it alot, but 1080/60 PC gaming is easy and INEXPENSIVE to get, I got my 1050ti right before etherium blew up and built my PC for $450 (and thats with 16gb DDR4 2400), $550 counting Monitor (refurbed 1080/75 for $72) and KBM. Windows is still telling me to activate it...maybe one day...

Your PC will be far more powerful than mine.

 

[RumblingRosco]

Best CPU for editing (+high/med gaming)? Looking at 1700X right now since it's on sale for $290.

The 1700X is comparable to the 1700 to be honest, so if you want to save a few bucks you can go for the 1700. But otherwise, yeah, the 1700/1700X are amazing bang-for-your buck, with the 1800 a slight lead but probably not worth the price difference.

 

[JonnyDBrit]

Best CPU for editing (+high/med gaming)? Looking at 1700X right now since it's on sale for $290.

Something in that range, yeah. At the very least keep your eyes on Ryzen, unless you wanna shell out for an X299 board and CPU now, in which case you'd be better off just waiting for Threadripper to drop. Presuming that's a bit over your budget though.

 

[bomblord1]

Best CPU for editing (+high/med gaming)? Looking at 1700X right now since it's on sale for $290.

Don't bother with the X the only thing it has is a slightly higher stock clock than the non-x and the auto OC feature. It also doesn't come with a cooler despite having a $30+ premium.

1700 (non X) has the same cores as the 1700, 1800, and 1800X and can be OC'd to match or exceed their performance. It comes with a fairly nice cooler as well so you won't have to spend extra to pick one up.

https://www.pcper.com/reviews/Processors/Overclocking-AMD-Ryzen-7-1700-Real-Winner

 

[RumblingRosco]

Don't bother with the X the only thing it has is a slightly higher clock than the non-x and the auto OC feature. It also doesn't come with a cooler despite having a $30+ premium.

1700 (non X) is the best Ryzen CPU as it has the same cores as the 1700, 1800, and1800X and can be OC'd to match or exceed their performance. It comes with a fairly nice cooler as well so you won't have to spend extra to pick one up.

https://www.pcper.com/reviews/Processors/Overclocking-AMD-Ryzen-7-1700-Real-Winner

The bolded never makes sense to me. The 1700X and 1800X are presumably binned has higher-clockable chips, right? I'd be very surprised if the average 1700X or 1800X can't reach at least 100 MHz higher clock than a 1700.

So I mean, I agree that the 1700 is probably the way to go for almost everyone, but I'll never understand why charts like what you're showing don't include 1700X or 1800X overclocked for a comparison. It feels like a badly designed test.

 

[VoxPop]

Just read on Reddit that there is a problem with Gigabyte Z270 mobos and XMP. Something about having outages before restarting? I feel like I had this exact issue when I was POST booting yesterday too.

 

[bomblord1]

The bolded never makes sense to me. The 1700X and 1800X are presumably binned has higher-clockable chips, right? I'd be very surprised if the average 1700X or 1800X can't reach at least 100 MHz higher clock than a 1700.

So I mean, I agree that the 1700 is probably the way to go for almost everyone, but I'll never understand why charts like what you're showing don't include 1700X or 1800X overclocked for a comparison. It feels like a badly designed test.

While that seems like common sense some website's testing actually shows it beating the 1700x when comparing all of them at their max OC. And even then the difference between all of them OC'd is actually really small.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/overclocking-amd-ryzen,5011-5.html

 

[RumblingRosco]

While that seems like common sense some website testing actually shows it beating the 1700x when comparing all of them at their max OC. And even then the difference between all of them OC'd is almost non-existent.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/overclocking-amd-ryzen,5011-5.html

This blows my mind.

Like, is it just that this test won the silicon lottery on the 1700 and lost it on the 1700x or 1800x? Or is it just entirely due to the stock voltage as the article mentions? Thanks for sharing this. Makes me feel even better about my 1700, though maybe I should really push it beyond the 3.7 GHz I have right now.

 

[bomblord1]

This blows my mind.

Like, is it just that this test won the silicon lottery on the 1700 and lost it on the 1700x or 1800x? Or is it just entirely due to the stock voltage as the article mentions? Thanks for sharing this. Makes me feel even better about my 1700, though maybe I should really push it beyond the 3.7 GHz I have right now.

Probably it but you would think it shouldn't happen like that at all considering the price difference.

 

[RumblingRosco]

Probably it but you would think it shouldn't happen like that at all considering the price difference.

Agreed. Would be nice to see more tests with maybe 5x of each processor.

 

[CazTGG]

Don't bother with the X the only thing it has is a slightly higher stock clock than the non-x and the auto OC feature. It also doesn't come with a cooler despite having a $30+ premium.

1700 (non X) has the same cores as the 1700, 1800, and 1800X and can be OC'd to match or exceed their performance. It comes with a fairly nice cooler as well so you won't have to spend extra to pick one up.

https://www.pcper.com/reviews/Processors/Overclocking-AMD-Ryzen-7-1700-Real-Winner

How high can a 1700 be overclocked before it becomes unstable? I know 4.0-4.1 GHz is the most popular overclock for the CPU, but can it be pushed further with the right cooler and careful voltage?

 

[JonnyDBrit]

How high can a 1700 be overclocked before it becomes unstable? I know 4.0-4.1 GHz is the most popular overclock for the CPU, but can it be pushed further with the right cooler and careful voltage?

Very much a YMMV experience atm. General indication is that the silicon lottery just isn't favourable for such speeds on Ryzen CPUs, but there is the continued issue of optimisation for the platform. 4.0 GHz may provide a low ceiling, but it is generally an achievable one.

 

[RumblingRosco]

How high can a 1700 be overclocked before it becomes unstable? I know 4.0-4.1 GHz is the most popular overclock for the CPU, but can it be pushed further with the right cooler and careful voltage?

4.1 GHz is the highest I've heaerd of for the 1700/1700x/1800 honestly. I'm sure a little higher might be possible, but I bet the cap anyone will hit is 4.2 or maybe 4.3 given what we've seen now.

3.7 is essentially guaranteed on the 1700. Above that is up to the silicon lottery it seems.

 

[RandomExpletive]

Not sure if this is possible but my brother is looking for a VR ready laptop (aka 1060 minimum) for under $1k

Is that possible? He's a student so he can get student discounts.

Alienware R13 or 15 maybe? Assuming the student discount applies to Dell and is uh... very significant.

I swear I just saw a 1060 laptop for around 1k. Must've been a LTT review.

Yeah the Acer Predator Helios 300, $1100

Not sub 1k but I imagine that's as close as you'll get without a killer deal

 

[darkslayer101]

Whoa the Hero has double number of the usb ports. I'd pick that if the price is similar haha

I am wondering if I am missing out on anything if I went with maximus hero + msi duke instead of M7 + msi duke

 

[kuYuri]

Finalized the rig I'm building for my girlfriend and started ordering parts:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant



Huge thanks to Bloodember, LelouchZero, kuYuri, Renekton, and Booker.DeWitt for steering me in the right direction and for all of the useful suggestions/changes! Thanks guys/gals!

Looks good. Let us know how things go. ^^

 

[Voidwolf]

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZHJtf8
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZHJtf8/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel - Core i7-7740X 4.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($341.89 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.78 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX X299-E GAMING ATX LGA2066 Motherboard ($349.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($332.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($178.09 @ OutletPC)
Case: Corsair - 750D Airflow Edition ATX Full Tower Case ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair - 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($164.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG - WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($58.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1696.60
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-21 15:26 EDT-0400

Just ordered the final parts for my new build (PSU and case) now I just gotta wait for it to arrive so I can put it together. I'm taking the 1TB Velociraptor, 4TB storage HDD and 970 out of my current PC and putting it in this one. I'll pick up a 1080ti sometime in the next few months and replace the Velociraptor with a 1TB SSD in the near future.

 

[bomblord1]

Just ordered the final parts for my new build (PSU and case) now I just gotta wait for it to arrive so I can put it together. I'm taking the 1TB Velociraptor, 4TB storage HDD and 970 out of my current PC and putting it in this one. I'll pick up a 1080ti sometime in the next few months and replace the Velociraptor with a 1TB SSD in the near future.

How did you manage to spend $1600 without a new GPU?

Looks like a pretty freaking awesome build but dang I feel like you went overboard on several parts lol.

 

[Hopeford]

I've learned my lesson: next time, take my computer to a store/friend more used to upgrading instead of trying to do it myself. Hell, might still have to take it somewhere to fix this...

So, my new 1060 arrived and I installed it fairly easily. Removed my old 660ti, installed it, perfectly fine. But now when I try turning the computer on, I get this screen:

Aaaand I have no idea what to do next.

 

[kmfdmpig]

I've learned my lesson: next time, take my computer to a store/friend more used to upgrading instead of trying to do it myself. Hell, might still have to take it somewhere to fix this...

So, my new 1060 arrived and I installed it fairly easily. Removed my old 660ti, installed it, perfectly fine. But now when I try turning the computer on, I get this screen:



Aaaand I have no idea what to do next.

I'm confused. Do you have both video cards installed in the same system?

I'm assuming it gets stuck on that boot screen? Have you tried F12?

 

[bomblord1]

I've learned my lesson: next time, take my computer to a store/friend more used to upgrading instead of trying to do it myself. Hell, might still have to take it somewhere to fix this...

So, my new 1060 arrived and I installed it fairly easily. Removed my old 660ti, installed it, perfectly fine. But now when I try turning the computer on, I get this screen:



Aaaand I have no idea what to do next.

Trying hitting f12 and choosing either your primary HDD or Windows UEFI boot.

Also check you didn't accidentally pull out the SATA and or Power cable running to your Hard Drive (check both ends and make sure the connection is secure).

If that doesn't work.

What video out do you have it plugged into (mobo or 1060)?

If you remove the 1060 and use the mobo video out does it boot properly? If so try going into Windows and removing any Nvidia graphics drivers.

 

[Hopeford]

I'm confused. Do you have both video cards installed in the same system?

I'm assuming it gets stuck on that boot screen? Have you tried F12?

No, only the 1060. I took the 660ti out before installing it.

Yeah, I tried hitting F12. It doesn't work unless I mash it as I'm turning on. I get the option of selecting something to boot from, but there's only one option there. I selected the only thing there, and I got a Windows screen like this:

Aaaand then it froze and went back to the F12/delete screen.

Trying hitting f12 and choosing either your primary HDD or Windows UEFI boot.

If that doesn't work.

What video out do you have it plugged into (mobo or 1060)?

If you remove the 1060 and use the mobo video out does it boot properly? If so try going into Windows and removing any Nvidia graphics drivers.

I tried hitting f12 and yeah, it basically just looped me back to the same old screen. I have the 1060 connected to my monitor with the HDMI cable. I'm going to try removing the 1060 and seeing if that solves anything.

I had already removed the Nvidia graphics drivers before uninstalling my 660ti, but I'll give it a shot again in case that works.

 

[bomblord1]

No, only the 1060. I took the 660ti out before installing it.

Yeah, I tried hitting F12. It doesn't work unless I mash it as I'm turning on. I get the option of selecting something to boot from, but there's only one option there. I selected the only thing there, and I got a Windows screen like this:


Aaaand then it froze and went back to the F12/delete screen.

Just to double check you did fully plug in the power connectors to the 1060 right? Every single pin available should have a power cable running to it. (probably a single 6 or 8 pin connector)

edit: I see there is a windows boot screen try mashing f8 in 1 second intervals and seeing if you can boot into safe mode.

 

[Hopeford]

Just to double check you did fully plug in the power connectors to the 1060 right? Every single pin available should have a power cable running to it. (probably a single 6 or 8 pin connector)

edit: I see there is a windows boot screen try mashing f8 and using safe mode.

On it, gonna try mashing f8 to see if that gets me anywhere.

 

[Hopeford]

...So. Uh. I literally didn't do anything, I went to make some coffee figuring this was gonna be a long day. Came back, booted the computer on, just like before. Literally having done nothing since last time I posted.

...Then this time it booted into this screen:

Then it beeped like it was possessed by R2-D2's satanic cousin, and rebooted into my desktop with a resolution that didn't show the bottom of the screen. I...think now I should try taking care of the 1060's drivers?

...This thing is haunted.

 

[RumblingRosco]

...So. Uh. I literally didn't do anything, I went to make some coffee figuring this was gonna be a long day. Came back, booted the computer on, just like before. Literally having done nothing since last time I posted.

...Then this time it booted into this screen:



Then it beeped like it was possessed by R2-D2's satanic cousin, and rebooted into my desktop with a resolution that didn't show the bottom of the screen. I...think now I should try taking care of the 1060's drivers?

...This thing is haunted.

Turn off your PC and unplug it from the power outlet.

Remove the 1060 and pop in your old GPU. Plug your PC back in and turn it on. Check to see if it works with the old GPU. Your new one may be a dead card, as one possibility, so this will be a way to check.

 

[Killcaustic68]

I'm currently lightly gaming on a laptop with a 670m. Moving into a new house where I'll have room for a proper set up so finally time to build a better desktop. Having a hard time deciding on an intel or amd build. Have done a bit of research and know the gpu and ram markets have risen quite a bit.

Budget: Prefer to stay in the 1000 range but max is 1200
Main Use: Will be games such as PUBG, H1Z1, probably lawbreakers and destiny 2 preferably at 60 fps+ and may dip my toes into streaming
Monitor Resolution: ASUS 23-inch VX238H 1080p will be the current monitor used for the build with a good chance to add a second better monitor if I need something prettier later on.
When will you build?: Would like to build it within the next month or two but would definitely like to have it built before the end of october
Will you be overclocking?: most likely in the future.

 

[Hopeford]

So I've done effectively nothing because life called and I couldn't work on the PC for a bit. Came back, it booted just fine. Recognized card and everything. Apparently only thing left is updating the drivers.

I don't know which of you used a long distance magic spell to fix this, but uh thank you.

 

[kmfdmpig]

So I've done effectively nothing because life called and I couldn't work on the PC for a bit. Came back, it booted just fine. Recognized card and everything. Apparently only thing left is updating the drivers.

I don't know which of you used a long distance magic spell to fix this, but uh thank you.

I've had similar things happen to me over the years. Suddenly something just works with no changes or rational reason why.

 

[Phatosaurus]

I don't know about the European GPU market, but in general, 1080 prices haven't been affected too much by the current climate. You should be able to get a 1080 for MSRP or even a little lower.

That's the thing, it seems too cheap to me. Like Amazon UK are selling the same card for £570, but I'm not sure if that's Amazon over charging or Newegg vastly undercharging because I haven't followed high end graphics card pricing much at all.

 

[Hopeford]

I SPOKE TOO SOON I JINXED IT SHIT

Updated drivers with Geforce Experience. Asked for a reinstall after the drivers were done so I was like "Okay cool computer, go ahead."

Then I got that.

I'm torn between attempting any sort of troubleshooting or just like, leaving it be for one hour and seeing if it fixes itself again.

EDIT:

I didn't do shit, it's now working again. Um. This seems...odd. It's like it's a coin flip whether it boots or not, but once it does it runs 100% fine.

 

[kmfdmpig]

I SPOKE TOO SOON I JINXED IT SHIT



Updated drivers with Geforce Experience. Asked for a reinstall after the drivers were done so I was like "Okay cool computer, go ahead."

Then I got that.

I'm torn between attempting any sort of troubleshooting or just like, leaving it be for one hour and seeing if it fixes itself again.

EDIT:

I didn't do shit, it's not working again. Um. This seems...odd. It's like it's a coin flip whether it boots or not, but once it does it runs 100% fine.

So the edit should be "now working again", right? If so, that's good news at least.

Is it possible that there's a wire/connection loose? You may want to double check the connections inside to see if anything is loose.

 

[Booker.DeWitt]

I think the cpu could be bottleneck, 6400 only has 4 core 4 threads. It would've been better if it has R5 1400,1500 or 1600 at least, imo.

Depends on what the next generational leap brings. Otherwise, it'll do Ultra on most games now, so if it holds up like the GTX 970 has, yes, it should handle high - maybe medium if necessary - for a good while.

Ok, I will think about it. Maybe wait for a better deal, black Friday , dont know

 

[RandomExpletive]

Weird

Just tried OCing my 1700 to 3.7 @ 1.3.

Only changed the frequency (from auto -> 3700), the core voltage (auto-1.3)

The AMD quiet-cool thing turned itself off, and when I boot I'm seeing 1550 MHz, and it never clocks up to 3700.

Cinebench @ stock (3.0) was 1420, now with this weird overclock-turned-downclock I'm at 572. Cinebench even reports 3.7 Ghz on the new test

What'd I forget to do??

 

[Hopeford]

So the edit should be "now working again", right? If so, that's good news at least.

Is it possible that there's a wire/connection loose? You may want to double check the connections inside to see if anything is loose.

Oops, yeah that's what I meant in the edit. Autocorrect got to me. Also, turns out it wasn't working perfectly. Windows said the adapter had stopped working, so all I could do was run the desktop at 1080p again but actual games and stuff just wouldn't use the GPU. I'm confused.

Nothing loose, but I double checked and redid the connections just in case. Still nothing. I tried using my old graphics card and that worked just fine.

Also, booting time was a lot shorter when I used my old graphics card, which...is a thing. No idea.

So what I did was use my old graphics card, boot into safe mode, uninstall all drivers, got the new GPU in again. Got weird error messages, but got through to the desktop this time. Installed drivers. Restarting.

Now, waiting for the longest restart of all time to go through and I'll see how that turns out...

EDIT: Nope. Very, very long booting sequence but no errors. At the same time, GPU is not working. It's listed under Device Manager, but it has that error exclamation mark beside it. "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems (Code 43)" is what I'm getting.