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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
They are designed to mitigate heat issues and slow down when they get too hot, so there would be performance issues, but probably not risk of breaking if the area is too hot.
Some motherboards from MSI include a heat shield designed to spread the heat/dissipate it better. A review seems to have tested it incorrectly, which led many to think it doesn't work. Other reviews seemed to show that it helped slightly. There are third party products that are similar as well as some M.2s that come with mini heat sinks as well.
Bloodember
Member
Post a picture of the case, someone on here might know what it is.
Flying Toaster
Member
Detective GAF is wicked good I agree on posting pics.
Building a new PC for a friend when are graphics card prices going down again? never...
fluffydelusions
Member
Ok, so after doing some more tests, I think I've narrowed down the issue.
As some may be aware, GPUs like the Asus Strix and MSI's Gaming X come with different modes that you can set using the manufacturer's app, typically silent mode, "gaming" mode, and an overclocked mode.
It seems setting it to OC mode may be causing instability in my GPU, hence why it freezes. So either I really got bad luck in the silicon lottery with my 1080 Ti Gaming X, or the factory overclock is drawing way more power than expected.
I'm surprised if this is the case, as factory overclocks tend to be very modest compared to what's possible with manual overclocks.
I'll keep testing with the above assumption to make sure. But it seems the GPU is most stable at default settings.
Hard to tell due to crap quality, but it looks like a Corsair 400R.
This?
Corsair 650D http://www.corsair.com/en-us/obsidian-series-650d
Perhaps a mild revision, special edition or slightly revised from stock?
Flying Toaster
Member
Edit: And beaten by feist.
It looks like an Obsidian series I am on a cellphone so research is harder.
It looks like an Obsidian series I am on a cellphone so research is harder.
RumblingRosco
Member
What are your GPU temps like with the overclock? My understanding is that 1080 Ti are kind of maxed out and only the most modest of overclocks is ever possible, if that. It seems to be partially an issue of heating up, which causes the card to throttle itself.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
If you're looking for a mATX case, highly recommend you check out the Thermaltake Core V21. Rated very highly and I can see why. Not the flashiest but easy to work with; tons of orientation and mounting options. You can take off every panel (sides, top, bottom, and front) and spin the shit around and do whatever you want. The I/O port on the front can be relocated. Logo on the front is a magnet you can rotate. Great stuff. It's surprisingly accommodating for water-cooling especially if you stack two of them. Yup, you can stack the shit.
Official page: http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002559
$60 on Amazon.
I put the guts from my old machine into it (2600k, 32GBs RAM, three SSDs) and love it. Used some universal controller mounts I had and drilled into the case to make mouse and keyboard holders. Waiting for a RGB fan and maybe a LED strip or two to finish it off. Running Windows Server like a champ.
Official page: http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002559
$60 on Amazon.
I put the guts from my old machine into it (2600k, 32GBs RAM, three SSDs) and love it. Used some universal controller mounts I had and drilled into the case to make mouse and keyboard holders. Waiting for a RGB fan and maybe a LED strip or two to finish it off. Running Windows Server like a champ.
RumblingRosco
Member
Don't buy it for $60. It routinely is $60 with a $25 rebate. Like, literally about every few weeks since May it has had a rebate offer. Wait for the rebate if you aren't in a rush. Got mine with the rebate and I love it. Only complaint is a bit of a lack of cable management space behind the motherboard tray.
fluffydelusions
Member
·feist·;244878186 said:
This is the one
Note, even w/o flash on your camera try using a flashlight or other light source to help make photos you post for identification purposes easier to... err ID.
Graphite Series 600T Drivecage
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/graphite-series-600t-drivecage
HDD upgrade kit with 3x hard drive trays and secondary hard drive cage parts (Graphite 600T, 730T, 760T, 780T) (Obsidian 450D, 650D, 750D)
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hdd-up...ive-trays-and-secondary-hard-drive-cage-parts
Graphite Series 600T Drive tray
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/drive-tray-for-graphite-series-600t
Alternatively, get a 3.5"-5.25" HDD adapter and/or silencers since the 650D has 5.25" bays, unlike many newer cases:
Several years old and still one of the best: Scythe Himuro
http://www.scythe-eu.com/en/products/hdd-cooler/himuro.html
SilverStone CFP53B
http://www.silverstonetek.com/legacy.php?area=en&model=CFP53B
Various Lian Li - EX-H34, EX-H34S, EX-H33S, EX-34, etc. (mostly options found on page 2 link)
http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio_category/hdd-expansion-kits/
http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio_category/hdd-expansion-kits/page/2/
http://www.lian-li.com/en/dt_portfolio_category/hdd-expansion-kits/page/3/
Various Icy Dock
http://www.icydock.com/category.php?id=113
OWC Multi-Mount
https://eshop.macsales.com/owcpages/multimount/
As mentioned, mechanical drives should not be left unsecured inside a case.
fluffydelusions
Member
·feist·;244880139 said:
Thanks!
Does anyone have any recommendations for computer speakers? I checked some old threads but am hoping I get a more current recommendation.
Hardware
Browsing the previous thread, these Logic Z506 speakers look cool, but I am not sure if they will be compatible with my MacBook Pro or dock, or if they are even a good set of speakers.
Hardware
- Macbook Pro 2016 (USB-C and Headphone Jack connectors)
- Dell WD15 USB-C Dock
Browsing the previous thread, these Logic Z506 speakers look cool, but I am not sure if they will be compatible with my MacBook Pro or dock, or if they are even a good set of speakers.
They mostly use standard audio plugs, so compatibility shouldn't be an issue with any speakers you buy.
There are a few other options to consider listed here:
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-computer-speakers/
fluffydelusions
Member
GAF, what monitor should I get? Not looking to spend more than ~$250. I have an nvidia 1060. I've had both 144hz monitors and IPS ones in the past. I love the colors of the IPS and the feel of the 144hz. The 144hz colors looked washed out in comparison which kinda annoyed me. I don't know what to do lol. I know they have 144hz IPS monitors but they are expensive af last I looked.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Didn't know that but yeah if you can snag it for essentially $35 that's amazing; it's definitely worth more.
Agree with cable management bit too.
The highest temps I ever seen was 75-76°C, but it usually settles around 72°C, which is within normal temps under load based on most reviews.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Look into flashing a different BIOS to open up some headroom. Though they're most effective on cards with hybrid or custom-loop cooling, BIOSes like XOC can give you some improvement by removing power limits depending on what kind of temps you can sustain.
DirgeExtinction
Member
Hi guys, I currently have a prebuilt PC I got from Best Buy a few years ago. I already got a bigger psu(I think it's 450w, maybe more) and a GTX 660(though that's been giving me issues/no video signal when installed). It comes with 8gb ddr3 RAM and an i5-3330. I've been wanting to upgrade for a while now, and AMD seems tempting. How much better would a Ryzen 3 1200 be, if at all? Also, would a GTX 1050 Ti be better than the 660? Or would a 1060 be the obvious choice?
Bloodember
Member
I doubt they will go down anytime soon, maybe closer to the end of the year, if then.
My PC has an odd issue with some USB 2.0 devices. When I have my Xbox One controller dongle plugged in to my PC it doesn't always work on boot but if I pull the dongle out and plug it back in it works.
Anyone else have this and know of a way to fix it (if it helps I'm using Windows 10)?
Anyone else have this and know of a way to fix it (if it helps I'm using Windows 10)?
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
i'm thinking of building a system to use as a kind of file storage/server. i have so many external/usb drives lying about and i'm moving between OneDrive/Google Drive. I want all my stuff in the one place.
what i'm currently looking at is:
Intel G4560
8GB 2133 (2x4)
MSI B250M Pro-VH
Be Quiet Hybrid Modular 400W PSU
Fractal Design Define C
works out about £342. i have a 3.5" 1TB and some 2.5" drives i could use.
i was looking at getting a celeron cpu instead which is the G3930 or G3950 which would save about £10-20. all i want is something reliable to access stored files and possibly stream to my PS4/PC/phone.
what i'm currently looking at is:
Intel G4560
8GB 2133 (2x4)
MSI B250M Pro-VH
Be Quiet Hybrid Modular 400W PSU
Fractal Design Define C
works out about £342. i have a 3.5" 1TB and some 2.5" drives i could use.
i was looking at getting a celeron cpu instead which is the G3930 or G3950 which would save about £10-20. all i want is something reliable to access stored files and possibly stream to my PS4/PC/phone.
Aztechnology
Member
1060 is markedly better. You can get one on Jet for ~$250 right now for the 6GB too.
https://jet.com/product/ASUS-GeForc...-30-HDCP-Rea/9b876612e5ed40ff8c5143e069beed89
RandomExpletive
Member
Wuh oh, just blue-screened during a game of rocket league. Glanced at my temps before the reboot and nothing looked out of place, GPU was toasty at 85 degrees (r9 390) but other than that everything was fine.
Event viewer just noted it was a kernel power event id 41 category 63, the details didn't say anything I understood. Wasn't using any overclocks besides my RAM at 2933, which has been fine for weeks, and during far more stressful nights than this...
Is there somewhere I can look that'll have more info? Kinda used to my mac's crash log, was surprised to not see anything like that in event viewer
Event viewer just noted it was a kernel power event id 41 category 63, the details didn't say anything I understood. Wasn't using any overclocks besides my RAM at 2933, which has been fine for weeks, and during far more stressful nights than this...
Is there somewhere I can look that'll have more info? Kinda used to my mac's crash log, was surprised to not see anything like that in event viewer
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
download Blue Screen View and it should read the dump your system made if you have that enabled.
RandomExpletive
Member
Nice thanks, hope I can glean some useful info off this.
Can't imagine its my cpu voltage, since its at stock. But it could be my RAM, or maybe my PSU. Would be a bummer if my PSU was dying
ColdDeckEd
Member
I think its psu related. My brothers rig that i built for him and do the tech support for was throwing out the same errors afew months ago.
Clean out your rig and psu and clean out your dust filters. Is the psu new or old?
RandomExpletive
Member
PSUs from my build in 2012, but that build sat idle for ~ 2-3 years until 2014/15 and since then its been used a normal amount.
Recently moved it to a new case (fractal mini c), I wonder if the GPUs proximity and heat (never got this hot in my old build) overheated it? Probably a stretch but I wanna find out soon, don't wanna end up killing my new ryzen build on account of an old PSU
So. I think it's finally time to Upgrade my trusty i5 2500k, what a beast of a CPU this has been, running @ 4.2 on air for the past 6 YEARS. never a problem, man I will miss it. will need a new mobo too, which is also 6 years old.
But I'm seeing bottlenecking on my 1080 way too often @ 3440x1440.
To Ryzen or not, that is the question. Anyone have recommendations for a nice mobo with BS free oc capabilities, I've been out of the loop for a good while with mobos
But I'm seeing bottlenecking on my 1080 way too often @ 3440x1440.
To Ryzen or not, that is the question. Anyone have recommendations for a nice mobo with BS free oc capabilities, I've been out of the loop for a good while with mobos
Frankfurter
Member
Ryzen 5 1600 + a B350 board (X370 if you wanna do SLI in the future) is a good and affordable way to upgrade right now. OC that Ryzen to ~3.8 Ghz using the cooler that comes with it and you are all set. In terms of the mainboard it depends on what you actually want to have in terms of features. The MSI PC Mate for example is pretty basic, but also cheap. The Asus Prime B350-Plus is also a popular choice. In terms of RAM go for 3000 or 3200 Mhz RAM and make sure that it's on the compatibility list.
CrankyKong
Member
Would moving from a 6700K to 8700K be a substantial upgrade for high end gaming?
mostly the 2 extra cores
mostly the 2 extra cores
ColdDeckEd
Member
PSUs from my build in 2012, but that build sat idle for ~ 2-3 years until 2014/15 and since then its been used a normal amount.
Recently moved it to a new case (fractal mini c), I wonder if the GPUs proximity and heat (never got this hot in my old build) overheated it? Probably a stretch but I wanna find out soon, don't wanna end up killing my new ryzen build on account of an old PSU
Yea I would say your PSU is in the very least overheating. Try blowing the dust out of it and making sure the path of air to it is clear. But it could also be that it's failing and it's time for a new one. 5 years is alot of hours of use. I would look into getting a new one and then use the old one as a backup.
RandomExpletive
Member
Not really 5 years, max like 3 years of "actual" use, and there is a shroud separating the gpu and the PSU, but yeah, may just invest in a new one
Whats the "go-to" PSU these days? Mines a 750, is 600 enough for ryzen 7 & a 1080?
JonnyDBrit
Member
A little hard to tell when there's no benchmarks because the 8700k isn't even officially revealed yet.
Otherwise the probable answer - if following the usual intel trend - is not much, except in titles and contexts where more than 4 cores might actually be readily utilised. Stuff like Ashes of the Singularity, or streaming. If using less than a really high end card like a GTX 1070, most probable is that you seem an improvement to minimum FPS than really an improvement to your maximums or averages.
My PC sometimes does not recognize USB devices and having devices plugged in the two front ports at the same time straight up doesn't work.
Additionally, my PC sometimes needs several attempts to boot up. The screen will just stay black.
Also, I have two different unconnected Samsung Evo SSDs (256 and 512 GB variants) since when I have them plugged in my PC keeps freezing.
All of this has been a thing for over a year now but now I finally care to do something about it.
Since all of these issues appear to be related to a lack of power, I'm guessing the culprit is either the mainboard or the PSU?
Additionally, my PC sometimes needs several attempts to boot up. The screen will just stay black.
Also, I have two different unconnected Samsung Evo SSDs (256 and 512 GB variants) since when I have them plugged in my PC keeps freezing.
All of this has been a thing for over a year now but now I finally care to do something about it.
Since all of these issues appear to be related to a lack of power, I'm guessing the culprit is either the mainboard or the PSU?
Frankfurter
Member
This is good info for me as well. I'm in almost the same place as the person you responded to except my 1155 board died and they are shockingly expensive to replace these days.
Is there any other reason to go Ryzen 1600 over a 1700 except price/performance?
The Hamburglar
Banned
No. Absolute waste of money. These new Intel chips are going to have a lower Base clock due to the extra cores. You'll lose some performance imo unless on very select titles.
Stick to our cpu until 7nn and 8 core comes out if you have to upgrade.
I'm rocking a 930 oc to 4hz that's 8 years old and it's still blasting through games at 1440p.
Frankfurter
Member
I was pretty much in the same situation a month or two ago and upgraded to Ryzen ^^ Well, my mainboard didn't die totally, but it had some really weird issues.
1600 is like the best price/performance CPU. But 1700 is totally fine if you want to spend a bit more and/or if you do stuff like video editing. It can also be OCed to ~3.8 or so Ghz. I'm not quite sure if the stock cooler is still sufficient for this kind of overclock, though (it has two extra cores vs. the 1600, but uses the same cooler afaik).
ISee
Member
Currently single core performance and clockspeed is more important than having more than 4c/8t. A 6700k is able to reach 4.4-.4.6 GHz on air in most cases and the 7700k 4.6-4.8 GHz. The 8700k would need to reach stable 4.8-5.0 GHz on air to be considered a worthwhile 6700k replacement, if you want to play at very high frame rates (90-144 Hz) . The two extra cores will be a nice way to "future proof" your build though, because games will probably start to better utilize more than 4/8 threads in the coming 2 years.
Long story short: For high fps it will depend on coffee lakes single core performance. People on 6700k/7700k CPUs can probably stay on them for the next 3-4 years though, especially if they only aim for 60 fps.
Coffeelake could be an excellent buy for people on broadwell and haswell CPUs, especially if they are on i5s.
But we really need to wait for benchmarks/reviews first!
Of course. Even prices for no mining cards (like the 1080/1080Ti) are through the roof currently. An Asus 1080 strix costs nearly 700€ currently and I bought mine for just 560€ 6 months ago. The price increases for RAM and GPUs make PCs way too expansive.
Freezing sounds more like a MB or even driver issue tbh. I'd try to check if there is a new/updated bios version for your MB and than reinstall windows (fresh) after updating your bios (just to exclude a software issue).
But it could very well be PSU related, or even both...
Hello guys. How hard its to build a PC under 400$? This considering that i already have a case (mid-tower Cooler Master HAF 922).
I live in venezuela, and, because of everything, i had to sell my old rig-pc a few years ago. I had:
Intel core i7 930
Noctua NH-D14
gts 250
tr2-rx thermaltake PSU
Now, well, i only have the case and the processor. But i don't think that its good to build a pc for gaming around a intel processor that old, right?
What are my options?
I live in venezuela, and, because of everything, i had to sell my old rig-pc a few years ago. I had:
Intel core i7 930
Noctua NH-D14
gts 250
tr2-rx thermaltake PSU
Now, well, i only have the case and the processor. But i don't think that its good to build a pc for gaming around a intel processor that old, right?
What are my options?
ISee
Member
I'd honestly consider getting a used 1366 mainboard for 40-70$, 8-16 GB of 1066 MHz ddr3, overclock your 930 to 3.7-4.0 GHz (should be doable with that cooler) and to get a 1050Ti or 1060.
The problem here is that an overclocked 930 will be just as capable at gaming as a new low-end CPU and you can invest a bit more in a better GPU that way. Not an optimal solution though.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
where are you buying the parts?
If gaming is the objective then two options come to mind, 1) buy all the parts used directly from previous owners (like in Linus Tech Tip's Scrap Wars), 2) Buy a last year i3 Acer/HP/Asus/etc desktop, and a GPU (that you bough used).
crimsonheadGCN
Banned
Is it easy to transfer the license for Windows 10 Pro (retail version) from my old PC to the one that I will get? I installed Windows 10 on my old pc earlier in the year and tied it to my Microsoft account.
ISee
Member
Very easy. Just login with your Microsoft account and connect to the internet while installing. You can also use your old win 7/8 key if you don't want to connect to the internet during installation. BTW you can manage your windows 10 license(s) and activate/deactivate it for various PC(s) directly in your Microsoft Account.
Phatosaurus
Member
Should be pretty simple. It was for me anyway.
Install Win10 on your new PC, skip the product key part and then once it's installed, link/add your account in the settings.