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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!

Saiyan-Rox

Member
Hey guys how harsh is RiME on PC? so far I haven't managed to get 60FPS in anything but the main menu on ultra

1070, Skylake i7 and 16GB DDR4

I though my rig would yawn at it :O
 

Yort

Member
I managed to snag an RX 580 for regular price, and now I'm looking for a processor to pair with it. I'm thinking of getting an i5 7600k, but I don't know what cooler or motherboard to go with. I'm in Canada, for the record.

Newegg.ca has the 7600k and several mobos on sale until the end of today, so I was considering what they have.
 

Rex_DX

Gold Member
Weird. Well, there may certainly have been a BIOS update since then. You built the machine in December but your board was probably sitting on the shelves for a bit, so even if the most recent BIOS came out in Nov/Dec, doesn't mean your board has it.

Go into BIOS and look for the version number, then go to your motherboard's support/drivers page and compare. If out-of-date, then flash to the newest BIOS.

Also: are you OC'ing the RAM?

Good point on the BIOS. I looked it up this morning and it looks like I'm up to date.

I'm not overclocking, no. I also am using a single 16 gig stick and my board has to slots. Problem persists even when I change to the other one.

I'm beginning to think my board might just be defective. And that would really suck.
 
Okay, I'm about to start figuring out a build (last time I built a pc was a few years ago) and I've always gone intel.

But now I'm seeing ryzen cpus for the first time and I'm wondering if that's a better way to go versus an equivalent (performance-wise) intel chip. I've tried delving into the Ryzen thread but I was quickly overwhelmed with information.

Here are my uses (in priority order):

1. HD Video editing and exporting using Adobe Premiere
2. Image editing in photoshop
3. Audio editing / exporting via audacity
4. Eventually gaming and live streaming

Would I be better off (performance-wise) going intel or going ryzen?

And is there anything else to consider when choosing AMD versus Intel?
 

Magwik

Banned
Okay, I'm about to start figuring out a build (last time I built a pc was a few years ago) and I've always gone intel.

But now I'm seeing ryzen cpus for the first time and I'm wondering if that's a better way to go versus an equivalent (performance-wise) intel chip. I've tried delving into the Ryzen thread but I was quickly overwhelmed with information.

Here are my uses (in priority order):

1. HD Video editing and exporting using Adobe Premiere
2. Image editing in photoshop
3. Audio editing / exporting via audacity
4. Eventually gaming and live streaming

Would I be better off (performance-wise) going intel or going ryzen?

And is there anything else to consider when choosing AMD versus Intel?
If you're going to be doing a good amount of content creation and live streaming, you're definitely going to want to grab a Ryzen chip.
 

Skittles

Member
Need help with monitor suggestions. On a GTX 670 and looking for 2, 1080P monitors. One will be used for gaming(so g-sync needed) and the other for media viewing(so VA or IPS). Thinking of these 3 right now, if there's anything better let me know

For Gaming:
ASUS ROG SWIFT PG248Q 24" Full HD 1ms 180Hz DP HDMI Eye Care G-SYNC eSports Gaming Monitor with DP and HDMI ports

For Media Viewing:
BenQ GC2870H 28" FHD 1080p LED Eye-Care Monitor 1920x1080 Display VA Low Blue Light Technology Flicker-free BLACK
ASUS PB238Q 23" Full HD 1920x1080 IPS DisplayPort HDMI DVI VGA USB Monitor
 
So apparently the Gigabyte 10 series cards are having fan control issues? I just put together my new build with a Gigabyte 1060 6GB G1 and as soon as a game starts the the GPU temp gets above 50C or so, the fans seem to spin up to 100% and don't stop until I reboot the machine. I've tried reinstalling the drivers and playing with the fan profiles in the Gigabyte software and in Afterburner and I can make the fan spin up at any point, but don't seem to have any control in turning it down or off. Any suggestions?
 
So apparently the Gigabyte 10 series cards are having fan control issues? I just put together my new build with a Gigabyte 1060 6GB G1 and as soon as a game starts the the GPU temp gets above 50C or so, the fans seem to spin up to 100% and don't stop until I reboot the machine. I've tried reinstalling the drivers and playing with the fan profiles in the Gigabyte software and in Afterburner and I can make the fan spin up at any point, but don't seem to have any control in turning it down or off. Any suggestions?

Did it just start happening after a driver update?

I would go backwards if so. If not contact gigabyte directly and see what they say.
 

kevin1025

Banned
So apparently the Gigabyte 10 series cards are having fan control issues? I just put together my new build with a Gigabyte 1060 6GB G1 and as soon as a game starts the the GPU temp gets above 50C or so, the fans seem to spin up to 100% and don't stop until I reboot the machine. I've tried reinstalling the drivers and playing with the fan profiles in the Gigabyte software and in Afterburner and I can make the fan spin up at any point, but don't seem to have any control in turning it down or off. Any suggestions?

I just fired up Mafia III to check, since I have the same card (Rocket League wouldn't hit the temp limit, haha). Under their Xtreme Gaming Engine, mine is showing that it won't fire up the fans until it hits 60 degrees C. It goes to 40% fan speed, and then gradually higher if the temps go higher. Super weird that yours is going to 100% when it hits the fan starting point. Do you have it set to Turbo, Auto, or Silent in the fan section?
 
Did it just start happening after a driver update?

I would go backwards if so. If not contact gigabyte directly and see what they say.

I just put it together Friday and installed the latest drivers from Gigabyte (which I'm pretty sure are just whatever is hosted from Nvidia)

I just fired up Mafia III to check, since I have the same card (Rocket League wouldn't hit the temp limit, haha). Under their Xtreme Gaming Engine, mine is showing that it won't fire up the fans until it hits 60 degrees C. It goes to 40% fan speed, and then gradually higher if the temps go higher. Super weird that yours is going to 100% when it hits the fan starting point. Do you have it set to Turbo, Auto, or Silent in the fan section?

I've tried all the different pre-set configs on the GB software and the all work as intended on the way up, but don't seem to be able to turn the fan back down. Currently Silent Mode, temp is 33C right now, the monitor is reading 0RPM, but it is definitely on.
 

kevin1025

Banned
I just put it together Friday and installed the latest drivers from Gigabyte (which I'm pretty sure are just whatever is hosted from Nvidia)



I've tried all the different pre-set configs on the GB software and the all work as intended on the way up, but don't seem to be able to turn the fan back down. Currently Silent Mode, temp is 33C right now, the monitor is reading 0RPM, but it is definitely on.

Hmm... That's intriguing. I went from an HD7870 to this one, so going from the loudest video card I've ever had to do this may skew me on this, haha. As Flying Toaster mentioned, contacting Gigabyte may be in order. Might be a fan issue rather than a software issue, if tinkering and reinstalling didn't help.
 
Wow BlueScreenView is exactly as detailed as I was looking for. Looks like a graphics driver caused the blue screen, looks like an AMD graphics driver (atikmdag.sys+cac47) and according to google it is.

I just updated to the most recent AMD driver, guess I'm rolling back AGAIN. I figured they'd fixed the problems with the 17.x.x drivers by now :(

I can't remember what the latest "safe" AMD driver is either :(
 
I just put it together Friday and installed the latest drivers from Gigabyte (which I'm pretty sure are just whatever is hosted from Nvidia)



I've tried all the different pre-set configs on the GB software and the all work as intended on the way up, but don't seem to be able to turn the fan back down. Currently Silent Mode, temp is 33C right now, the monitor is reading 0RPM, but it is definitely on.

Time to send a friendly email to Gigabyte. It could easily be bad hardware and since it is new they should be good on fixing it.
 

Dr.Acula

Banned
I prefer to just use Newegg and NCIX rather than the 14 different stores. I was trying to go down the QVL lists for RAM and Mobos but it's kinda hard and a lot of RAM combinations don't go with Mobos that I see, so is this gonna be okay?

I also got an old optical drive and an old SSD 256gig that I'm gonna port over.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($269.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($104.98 @ NCIX)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($164.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($134.99 @ NCIX)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card ($909.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1584.94 CAD
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-30 17:46 EDT-0400
 
I prefer to just use Newegg and NCIX rather than the 14 different stores. I was trying to go down the QVL lists for RAM and Mobos but it's kinda hard and a lot of RAM combinations don't go with Mobos that I see, so is this gonna be okay?

I also got an old optical drive and an old SSD 256gig that I'm gonna port over.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($269.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($104.98 @ NCIX)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($164.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($134.99 @ NCIX)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card ($909.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1584.94 CAD
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-30 17:46 EDT-0400
If you're going to go for overclocking, the Asrock B350 Gaming K4 is a better pick, due to more controls over stuff like voltage and RAM speed.
 
Good point on the BIOS. I looked it up this morning and it looks like I'm up to date.

I'm not overclocking, no. I also am using a single 16 gig stick and my board has to slots. Problem persists even when I change to the other one.

I'm beginning to think my board might just be defective. And that would really suck.

Yeah I would probably lean towards the mobo. Hopefully you qualify for RMA?
 

Dr.Acula

Banned
Hmm, now I'm reading that single-ranked dimms clock higher than dual-ranked ones on Ryzen boards.

Has anyone gotten a ~3000Mhz clock with Ryzen? What RAM did you go with?
 

LegendX48

Member
I'm thinking of upgrading my little brother's pc. He's rocking a phenom II quad core at around 2ghz and uses his pc mainly for video editing with sony movie studio 13 platinum, some photoshop, and some light gaming (stuff like the lego games and some last gen stuff).

would a ryzen 5 cpu like the 1600 be a good choice?
 
Halp. My mouse just suddenly started to act up on me. It is randomly getting locked to the horizontal axis for like a split second at a time but at frequent intervals. Like 3-4 seconds apart.

It's a 2014 Razer Naga.

What do?
 

Bloodember

Member
I'm thinking of upgrading my little brother's pc. He's rocking a phenom II quad core at around 2ghz and uses his pc mainly for video editing with sony movie studio 13 platinum, some photoshop, and some light gaming (stuff like the lego games and some last gen stuff).

would a ryzen 5 cpu like the 1600 be a good choice?

Yes, that would be a good choice. Add 16GB of RAM and an SSD he should be set.
 

Magwik

Banned
I'm thinking of upgrading my little brother's pc. He's rocking a phenom II quad core at around 2ghz and uses his pc mainly for video editing with sony movie studio 13 platinum, some photoshop, and some light gaming (stuff like the lego games and some last gen stuff).

would a ryzen 5 cpu like the 1600 be a good choice?

Just a heads up but the Ryzen CPU doesn't have integrated graphics so you'll need a video card too since you hadn't mentioned it.
 

kevin1025

Banned
You can get a card/mobo for that but I go wired for my peripherals personally.

I'm a wired person usually, too, but I only recently discovered my pre-built I bought years back has the chip built in, haha, so I've been enjoying that more recently.

USB BT adapter.

Ah cool, I never considered the USB key thingies! My keyboard and mouse have one, so another wouldn't hurt (since I think that one only connects to them).

Thank you to you both!
 

kevin1025

Banned
Do you guys with nvidia 10xx cards leave the default fan curve as is where it kicks on at 60c or set something custom?

I left mine (GTX 1060) on Auto and have been very happy with it (I overclocked a couple of percentage points, not a ton)! But someone who knows a bit more can hopefully answer better, haha, in case you're looking for fan performance differences.
 
Hi guys, I currently have a prebuilt PC I got from Best Buy a few years ago. I already got a bigger psu(I think it's 450w, maybe more) and a GTX 660(though that's been giving me issues/no video signal when installed). It comes with 8gb ddr3 RAM and an i5-3330. I've been wanting to upgrade for a while now, and AMD seems tempting. How much better would a Ryzen 3 1200 be, if at all? Also, would a GTX 1050 Ti be better than the 660? Or would a 1060 be the obvious choice?

1060 is markedly better. You can get one on Jet for ~$250 right now for the 6GB too.

https://jet.com/product/ASUS-GeForc...-30-HDCP-Rea/9b876612e5ed40ff8c5143e069beed89
Thanks, I'll check it out. :)
 
Have I mentioned that it feels good to be back on a desktop PC again. Was using a gaming laptop for ~6 months or so but just doesn't feel the same. Sure it played all the games I wanted alright (not as good as a desktop) but it got uncomfortably warm playing on for more than an hour or so and the small screen/keyboard I found to be annoying.
 

Storm Brewer

Neo Member
Hey guys, so my gaming laptop just died last night after 5 years of valiant service, and I figure this time since portability isn't as much of a factor, I'd go with a desktop instead.

I'm still trying to go with a smaller build (mini ITX I guess?) since I do LANs still occasionally, but I really have no clue if I'm building things properly or not.

First off, here's the questionnaire filled out for a little more information:

Your Current Specs: Nada (got a mouse and headphones and that's it, mobo is fried on laptop and not gonna repair it).
Budget: Looking for ~$3,500 CAD (with tax), including a gsync/freesync monitor
Main Use:
Gaming (5),
Some emulation (GC/wii) (3)
and general use (word/excel/streaming) (3).
Monitor Resolution: Need a little help here, based off the nvidia build I have below I'd go for the 1440p/165hz Acer in the OP https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/ttnG3C/acer-monitor-xb271hubmiprz
But I'm not sure if I'd be better off with Vega/Freesync, or a different gsync monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Must run an adaptive display software, and looking for a minimum 60fps at 1440p for high-ultra settings for most modern games. Specific game include Battlegrounds at 60fps medium settings (cause it's early access) and a build that would hopefully cover destiny 2 other new releases at high-ultra 1440p 60fps (don't mind turning down performance for higher frame rate though).
Looking to reuse any parts?: N/A
When will you build?: The sooner the better, 2 weeks from now at most would be nice. I'm willing to wait a month or so if Ryzen is worth waiting for.
Will you be overclocking?: only if it doesn't cause heat problems in a mini ITX build (I know very little about OC'ing in general).

I had a friend help me put together a build on pc part picker as follows:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/Stormbrewer/saved/j2W23C

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor ($435.84 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U12S SE-AM4 CPU Cooler ($79.95 @ Newegg Canada Marketplace)
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($200.00 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($189.73 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($131.50 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Seagate - FireCuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($126.75 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($824.99 @ Memory Express)
Case: Fractal Design - Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($84.92 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Memory Express)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($179.50 @ Vuugo)
Monitor: Acer - XB271HU bmiprz 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($949.99 @ Memory Express)
Total: $3333.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-30 23:45 EDT-0400

Actual grand total is 3,600 with tax and preferred vendors (amazon, ncix and newegg).

Some points I'm unsure about:
Intel vs AMD: In particular I'm not doing any video editing/other media work, so I'm not sure if the extra cores from AMD are necessary? At the same time I'm willing to pay a bit extra if it helps future proof at all.

1080ti vs 1080: I'm currently going with a 1080 build, but I'm not sure if the extra 3GB of VRAM will make a huge difference for future proofing, and if the extra clock speed is necessary to bruteforce 60fps/1440p for some of the suboptimal ports we've been seeing (nier and dishonoured 2 come to mind). If it's significant enough I don't mind laying out the extra cash, but if it's more of a 4K/VR necessary expense I'm not as interested.

Nvidia vs AMD: this ones a little trickier, since Vega's just finally had its specs announced. It seems based off of AMD's figures there's higher min frame rates, but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle of trying to track down a new card when it seems like a great target for miners. If I can get the card at launch, the benchmarks match up with the 1080 and y'all think a 1080/64 card is enough for my needs I don't mind waiting, but again I'd prefer to build sooner rather than later.

Anyway sorry for the wall of text and hopefully the formatting isn't too bad since I'm writing this all on mobile (rip laptop), but any and all advice is greatly appreciated!
 
so i've had a problem since about this time on friday that i'm still trying to troubleshoot

- was playing a heavily modded cities: skylines and my computer suddenly black-screen crashed
- upon turning off the computer and trying to boot back in, the motherboard (ASUS Z97-PRO) LED cycled to the b2 code ("legacy option ROM initialization") and stayed there
- swapped out the GTX 780 in there for an HD 5850. managed to POST and get into windows (and was about to download AMD drivers), but promptly crashed after 5 minutes and would only boot to the same error code
- swapped out the 6-pin and 6+2-pin PSU cables I was using for the extras that came in the same box, same result
- booted without a GPU in any PCI-e slots, nothing wrong (POSTed, got into Windows, no crashes in games).
- swapped out the HD 5850 for a GT 430 I had lying around, similarly nothing wrong.

so it's either a GPU problem (given the error code), a PSU problem (given that the issues only happen when I try to run anything that requires the additional power), or both. what are my options if I don't have a spare PSU or know anyone willing to let me test?

(GPU is an EVGA GTX 780 SC that i already replaced two months ago; PSU is an EVGA SuperNova G2 750W. the GPU's still under warranty until 8/22, the PSU's under warranty until 2024.)
 

Bloodember

Member
Hey guys, so my gaming laptop just died last night after 5 years of valiant service, and I figure this time since portability isn't as much of a factor, I'd go with a desktop instead.

I'm still trying to go with a smaller build (mini ITX I guess?) since I do LANs still occasionally, but I really have no clue if I'm building things properly or not.

First off, here's the questionnaire filled out for a little more information:

Your Current Specs: Nada (got a mouse and headphones and that's it, mobo is fried on laptop and not gonna repair it).
Budget: Looking for ~$3,500 CAD (with tax), including a gsync/freesync monitor
Main Use:
Gaming (5),
Some emulation (GC/wii) (3)
and general use (word/excel/streaming) (3).
Monitor Resolution: Need a little help here, based off the nvidia build I have below I'd go for the 1440p/165hz Acer in the OP https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/ttnG3C/acer-monitor-xb271hubmiprz
But I'm not sure if I'd be better off with Vega/Freesync, or a different gsync monitor.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Must run an adaptive display software, and looking for a minimum 60fps at 1440p for high-ultra settings for most modern games. Specific game include Battlegrounds at 60fps medium settings (cause it's early access) and a build that would hopefully cover destiny 2 other new releases at high-ultra 1440p 60fps (don't mind turning down performance for higher frame rate though).
Looking to reuse any parts?: N/A
When will you build?: The sooner the better, 2 weeks from now at most would be nice. I'm willing to wait a month or so if Ryzen is worth waiting for.
Will you be overclocking?: only if it doesn't cause heat problems in a mini ITX build (I know very little about OC'ing in general).

I had a friend help me put together a build on pc part picker as follows:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/Stormbrewer/saved/j2W23C

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor ($435.84 @ DirectCanada)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U12S SE-AM4 CPU Cooler ($79.95 @ Newegg Canada Marketplace)
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($200.00 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($189.73 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($131.50 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Seagate - FireCuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($126.75 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($824.99 @ Memory Express)
Case: Fractal Design - Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($84.92 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Memory Express)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($179.50 @ Vuugo)
Monitor: Acer - XB271HU bmiprz 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($949.99 @ Memory Express)
Total: $3333.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-30 23:45 EDT-0400

Actual grand total is 3,600 with tax and preferred vendors (amazon, ncix and newegg).

Some points I'm unsure about:
Intel vs AMD: In particular I'm not doing any video editing/other media work, so I'm not sure if the extra cores from AMD are necessary? At the same time I'm willing to pay a bit extra if it helps future proof at all.

1080ti vs 1080: I'm currently going with a 1080 build, but I'm not sure if the extra 3GB of VRAM will make a huge difference for future proofing, and if the extra clock speed is necessary to bruteforce 60fps/1440p for some of the suboptimal ports we've been seeing (nier and dishonoured 2 come to mind). If it's significant enough I don't mind laying out the extra cash, but if it's more of a 4K/VR necessary expense I'm not as interested.

Nvidia vs AMD: this ones a little trickier, since Vega's just finally had its specs announced. It seems based off of AMD's figures there's higher min frame rates, but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle of trying to track down a new card when it seems like a great target for miners. If I can get the card at launch, the benchmarks match up with the 1080 and y'all think a 1080/64 card is enough for my needs I don't mind waiting, but again I'd prefer to build sooner rather than later.

Anyway sorry for the wall of text and hopefully the formatting isn't too bad since I'm writing this all on mobile (rip laptop), but any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

I changed a few things to save some money. The 1700 will do, and will overclock to the 1700X, plus it comes with a cooler. The motherboard I left alone, but if you can find a B350 mITX like the Asrock or Gigabyte switch to that, there's no reason for a X370 to even be in a mITX form factor. If your not going to use the Pro features, then just get Home. Unless you want to manually do updates then get Pro. Switched out the PSU for a better one and it's not as expensive. Changed your RAM also to something not as expensive and just as good. Not sure if it's on the QVL list though, but just because it's not doesn't mean it won't work.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($364.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($200.00 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($149.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($131.50 @ Vuugo)
Storage: Seagate - FireCuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($125.65 @ Amazon Canada)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($824.99 @ Memory Express)
Case: Fractal Design - Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case ($84.92 @ DirectCanada)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.98 @ NCIX)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($119.50 @ Vuugo)
Monitor: Acer - XB271HU bmiprz 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor ($859.00 @ Amazon Canada)
Total: $2960.52
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-31 01:53 EDT-0400
 

Mozendo

Member
Hey so I downgraded from W10 to W7 Ultimate since my friend had a CD and now I need to activate W7 with a cd-key.
What's the difference from a OEM key and a standard license key? Also should I even bother? All I hear is I get some late watermark with a black wallpaper.
 

Erheller

Member
Don't really know where to put this question, but I figured this would be the best place. I have a portable fan connected to a power strip, the same one my PC is connected to. I have an external hard drive connected to the top of my PC and rests on top of it. Whenever I turn the fan off, the hard drive disconnects and then reconnects to the PC. I can live without using the external hard drive, so it's not a huge issue, but I'm wondering what could cause this.
 

Retsudo

Member
Hi guys! So my Asus Prime A Z270 motherboard, just up and decided to fuck itself, and apparently killed all but two of the usb ports. They still give energy but nothing happens after that.

I've tried everything i can remember from uninstalling the drivers to a fresh windows install and nothing changed. The thing is, all the information i have seems to show everything is alright, but quite clearly is not.

I just turned the computer off, and everything was fine, next time i turned it on it was like this. :(
 

Dibbs

Member
Hi guys! So my Asus Prime A Z270 motherboard, just up and decided to fuck itself, and apparently killed all but two of the usb ports. They still give energy but nothing happens after that.

I've tried everything i can remember from uninstalling the drivers to a fresh windows install and nothing changed. The thing is, all the information i have seems to show everything is alright, but quite clearly is not.

I just turned the computer off, and everything was fine, next time i turned it on it was like this. :(

Got warranty for it?



edit:

Im ready to order my new rig (link), the only thing that kinda splits me is the GPU. Go 1070 8GB or a cheap 1080?
 

ISee

Member
Got warranty for it?



edit:

Im ready to order my new rig (link), the only thing that kinda splits me is the GPU. Go 1070 8GB or a cheap 1080?

What 1080 vs 1070 are we talking about?

In general: A cheap 1080 will always be faster than even a highly overclocked 1070. So if performance is your main criteria...
 
Hmm, now I'm reading that single-ranked dimms clock higher than dual-ranked ones on Ryzen boards.

Has anyone gotten a ~3000Mhz clock with Ryzen? What RAM did you go with?

I have an MSI B350M Gaming Pro on the April BIOS (not the AGESA 1.0.0.6/most recent one from late June). Running 2x8 GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 MHz at 2933 MHz on 1.35V. All I did was enable the second XMP profile and manually adjust DRAM V to 1.35V and it was totally stable in all my Prime95 tests. The timings are still at the stock ratings.

The specific part number is CMK16GX4M2B3000C15. Last I checked, it wasn't even on the QVL for my mobo. I only bought it because I got it brand new for $90 in June, but it has worked really well.
 

ISee

Member


The cheapest 1080 seems to cost only 70$ more (according to pcpart), which wouldn't be too bad for additional 30% more gpu power. Especially as the asus 1070 dual isn't considered to be a high end 1070 anyway (only matters if you plan to oc above 2000 MHz and if you are worried about temeperatures and noise and even then it's not to big of a deal for the most part).
 

Dibbs

Member
The cheapest 1080 seems to cost only 70$ more (according to pcpart), which wouldn't be too bad for additional 30% more gpu power. Especially as the asus 1070 dual isn't considered to be a high end 1070 anyway (only matters if you plan to oc above 2000 MHz and if you are worried about temeperatures and noise and even then it's not to big of a deal for the most part).

Yeah it's not that big of a price difference between em. Might as well go with the 1080 then.
 
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