V1LÆM
Gold Member
WD blues still as good as previously reported? I'm looking for a 2TB HD but the blues only come at 5400 RPM.
yeah they are still good as far as i know. i always buy them. i think if you want 7200rpm 2TB you need the black one
WD blues still as good as previously reported? I'm looking for a 2TB HD but the blues only come at 5400 RPM.
I have an MSI B350M Gaming Pro on the April BIOS (not the AGESA 1.0.0.6/most recent one from late June). Running 2x8 GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 MHz at 2933 MHz on 1.35V. All I did was enable the second XMP profile and manually adjust DRAM V to 1.35V and it was totally stable in all my Prime95 tests. The timings are still at the stock ratings.
The specific part number is CMK16GX4M2B3000C15. Last I checked, it wasn't even on the QVL for my mobo. I only bought it because I got it brand new for $90 in June, but it has worked really well.
I have a question. this is the first build I am doing, I should start building this weekend when my components come in the mail.
I bought this case:
http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P400-TemperedGlass.html
it comes with 2 fans, but I am planning to add 2 more fans (3 in front and in 1 the back).
for the total of 4 fans, where do I connect them? in the motherboard or PSU? This particular case has a fan control where you can choose the speed, so I guess to take advantage of that I need to plug in the mobo itself?
If I don't have enough plugs available in the mobo for 4 fans, what do I do?
Plug them into the motherboard. Typically there are 4 pin headers on the mobo labeled "CHA_FAN" or "CASE FAN" or something like that. If you don't have enough headers on the mobo, you can buy fan splitter cables that splits one header into two to connect two fans to one header. Molex connection is also an option if the fans still have that connection, which are connected to the power supple, but they are becoming rare now.
Since your case has a fan control header, you plug the fans in there, then I believe the fan control header pin goes to the mobo.
I just checked the MOBO manual (asus b350 strix) and there is 3 cHA_Fan slots, and oneAIO_PUMP slot that looks exactly the same. can I connect my 4th fan to that AIO_Pump connector?
So I bought a used, "very good" condition Dell S2417DG from Adorama via Ebay for $290 shipped. Brand new, MSRP is $500, Amazon usually has it for about $425, and there are rare sales that drop it down to the $350 or $325 range. The "very good" condition means it might have scrapes, dings, or bruises but is in "fully functioning condition" and nothing that should "affect picture quality" so I'm hoping for the best.
Anyone ever purchased a used item from Adorama? Gonna try to be home when it is delivered to inspect it quickly and sign for it right there or reject it if it's in shit shape/the shipping box is mangled.
I'm psyched for <$300 1440p/165Hz/1ms/GSync goodness. 24" may seems small to most people, but it fits my desk perfectly and the 24" version of this monitor (as opposed to the 27") seems to have overall better reviews and of course a higher pixel density.
So I bought a used, "very good" condition Dell S2417DG from Adorama via Ebay for $290 shipped. Brand new, MSRP is $500, Amazon usually has it for about $425, and there are rare sales that drop it down to the $350 or $325 range. The "very good" condition means it might have scrapes, dings, or bruises but is in "fully functioning condition" and nothing that should "affect picture quality" so I'm hoping for the best.
Anyone ever purchased a used item from Adorama? Gonna try to be home when it is delivered to inspect it quickly and sign for it right there or reject it if it's in shit shape/the shipping box is mangled.
I'm psyched for <$300 1440p/165Hz/1ms/GSync goodness. 24" may seems small to most people, but it fits my desk perfectly and the 24" version of this monitor (as opposed to the 27") seems to have overall better reviews and of course a higher pixel density.
Which ryzen offers the best price to performance ratio? I want to use it for development and gaming.
Late response, but I'm so jealous of this deal. I'd been checking Amazon Warehouse deals, but it hadn't occurred to me to check Adorama. I'll keep an eye out for a similar price. If you haven't already, let us know what condition it's in when it arrives!
That's a really good deal. I've bought used lenses from Adorama and they've always come as described. Never had an issue with them.
Okay, gonna go with this, last check, looks good? Mobo is $125 from another store.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($266.50 @ shopRBC)
Motherboard: ASRock - Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($125.00 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($164.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($124.40 @ Amazon Canada)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card ($904.99 @ PC Canada)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1585.88 CAD
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-31 11:22 EDT-0400
First time posting in this thread, looking to upgrade from my current build which is a 2500k.
Looking to get a good future proof build for gaming with good price to perf ratio.
This is what I have so far, I'd like to have some suggestions on what I can tweak or maybe cut back on thanks!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($308.87 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($57.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($204.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card ($719.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($104.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.77 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1796.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-31 11:44 EDT-0400
Looks really solid. You could save a bit if you cut from an M.2 to a standard SATA SSD; I don't know if the performance on M.2 is really much better, but it might be looking into if you want to save $20-$40.
I know I'm going to be super fucking annoying with this question but at least I think I already have the answer. Do we have any idea when consumer Volta is coming? I want to build a new rig and have every intention of going 1080ti. We don't expect a magical debut/release in the next month or three, right?
another stupid question (I am a noob, please be patient):
I am building a system with Ryzen 6 1600, gygabyte GTX 1080 windoforce.
My case is p400s, and it comes with 2 case fans(in front, one rear). 120mm
how many fans should I use? I plan to overclock the ryzen a bit, nothing fancy.
I was thinking adding a 140mm in the rear (exhaust), and put 2 120mm in the front as intake. Do I add a third fan as front intake? any need for top fans (exhaust or intake?)
another stupid question (I am a noob, please be patient):
I am building a system with Ryzen 6 1600, gygabyte GTX 1080 windoforce.
My case is p400s, and it comes with 2 case fans(in front, one rear). 120mm
how many fans should I use? I plan to overclock the ryzen a bit, nothing fancy.
I was thinking adding a 140mm in the rear (exhaust), and put 2 120mm in the front as intake. Do I add a third fan as front intake? any need for top fans (exhaust or intake?)
It always varies by case, ambient temperature, and your components, but in general, having a slightly positive pressure (more air being pushed in than being pushed out) is considered beneficial. It's super rough, but what I do is look at the rated air displacement (cubic foot per minute, CFM) of each fan (which is often given for their max speed) and try to roughly balance my case fans based on their CFMs.
So if you have 2 fans at default, one front 120mm as an intake and one rear 120mm as an exhaust, and the intake fan is rated at 60 CFM while the exhaust fan is rated at 50 CFM, that means you should have slightly positive pressure (more air pushing in to your PC than being exhausted).
In general, one intake and one exhaust is probably "good enough" for most builds, but adding more certainly doesn't hurt, and adding more often gives you the option of reducing the RPMs of each fan so that they're individaually quieter, but still pull/push more air overall (basically, more fans = they can run slower/at a lower RPM = they run quieter = their quantity compensates for their reduced individual RPM).
If you want to add one more intake and one more exhaust to the two fans that are already included, I think that should more than suffice. More is fine and probably would let you see minor temperature increases, but I do think there are some diminishing returns when you start getting into the 5+ case fan territory... though as mentioned at the beginning of the post, it's all case-by-case, so there's no one answer fits all.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - X370 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($149.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LED 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($332.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($178.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - Black 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($63.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($519.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Inwin - 301 Black MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ B&H)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($19.11 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($19.11 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($19.11 @ Newegg)
Total: $1846.03
Planning on going from a 970+6600k to 1080ti+7700k on a 1440p 165hz setup. Should I upgrade my Mobo and RAM too or does that matter too much in higher fps? Currently have 8GB DDR4 2400mhz. Getting another 8GB anyways.
So my current PC is on the death row so I'm started doing some research building one from scratch. However, I don't really play many games these days because I don't have the time, so I'm not looking to get a top of the line machine. Nonetheless, I still want to be able to play Final Fantasy XIV and other games at max settings so it's not like I want something that's on a tight budget. As long as I can open 30 tabs on Chrome while playing an old game is good enough for me for now.
The problem is that I have no idea how much I should be spending for a machine like that. I don't mind spending between $1000-1500 CAD for a good machine but it kinda feels to high at times when I remember I only play new games on my PC aside from my MMOs once every 6 months. However, I also want the ability to run most new games that are coming out in the near future even if they're not running optimally. It's always nice to have the option so I don't want to hamstring myself. If I'm spending that type of money, then might as well get something good, right?
Here's a quick overview because I always wanted to fill this out:
Your Current Specs: lol
Budget: $1000-1500
Main Use: Light gaming (FFXIV mostly), Streaming games in HD (3), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (5)
Monitor Resolution: 1080p but willing to upgrade to 1440p if it fits the budget. I will be buying a new monitor too.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Final Fantasy XIV at 1080/60fps is the bare minimum.
When will you build: Over the next month or two. I don't have a set deadline but the sooner I can upgrade the better.
Will you be overclocking?: I want to say no but I just know that I'll end up saying yes in the end.
Sorry for all the noob questions. I'm still reading through a bunch of guides which are really helpful to find out what I need, but I also wanted to get some more personal help on how to begin tackling this so that's why I'm posting here despite not having much so far.
What do I want to do with it?
How much physical space do I want the PC to take up?
How long do I want this PC to last with no/only minor upgrades?
What is my budget?
This is my final specs. End up going with 1080 lol. Will use this with my existing Dell U2515H and cintiq 13"
I hope the G1 gaming won't have coil whine though >_<
This is my final specs. End up going with 1080 lol. Will use this with my existing Dell U2515H and cintiq 13"
I hope the G1 gaming won't have coil whine though >_<
Hi all, a little off topic, but I'm beginning to get desperate. I'm looking for a bit of advice.
I have a brand new EVGA GTX1060 6GB and I think it's faulty. I installed it and when I booted up there were a lot of artifacts on the screen (horizontal lines flickering). I assumed it was because I needed to install drivers so I installed the drivers from the cd. After rebooting it seemed ok, I played a few games and everything seemed fine. The next day I boot up my machine and notice very faint horizontal lines, barely visible. I decided to check for updated drivers, downloaded and installed them.
After installing I rebooted and now I get absolutely nothing on my display. Not even the boot splash screen. My display just goes from "no signal" message to a plain black screen. I can remote access my PC and took a look at the device manager which says "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)"
I have googled it and there are a few reports of similar issues. I have tried most so called solutions without success. I have uninstalled it, removed drivers using DDU and re-installed, updated the motherboard bios, held down the power button for over a minute. Nothing has changed.
So that's my current situation, if anyone has experienced this, is my GPU dead? Should I keep searching for a solution or should I just accept that the GPU is dead and RMA it?
Any advice would be appreciated, I'm literally having a sleepless night!
I doubt this'll fix it, but try removing your GPU and reinstalling it.
Hi, yeah tried that too. Checked all connections over again. I even removed it and booted from the onboard graphics (which works fine).
CPU: i7-6700K
CPU Cooler: Corsair H75 Liquid
MOBO:MSI Z170A SLI ATX
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8) 2400MHZ
Storage: Sandisk Z400s 128GB SSD
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 7200RPM HDD
GPU: Radeon R9 Nano 4gb
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400S Black
PSU: EVGA 500W 80+ Broze ATX
OS: Windows 10 Home
Might be time to return it then, or if you can't do that, RMA it. You're sure your PSU has a high enough wattage for it right?
Back again, and now after having done some more research I really want some advice on what card to buy. After having spent the last week or so looking at the top end cards and ultrawide monitors, I've finally decided for sure that I want an ultrawide. I'll be getting a refurbished LG 34UM88C (probably not curved since holy moly that is expensive, but it's still up in the air for now). 3440x1440, 60hz, Freesync. I don't play competitive shooters or MOBAs or anything, so I really don't mind capping at 60fps and would prefer the higher resolution and aspect ratio.
All that said, I'm now at a standstill. I was planning on sucking it up and getting a 1080 Ti that will last me for a good number of years and pairing that with the flat LG ultrawide. Unfortunately... I've only just realized that adaptive framerate just straight up won't work with that setup. Cut me some slack please, I'm new. �� So my question to you guys is: should I get a Vega? Ultrawide with G-Sync is waaaaay out of my budget, so it's either the 1080-level Vega with working Freesync, or the more powerful 1080 Ti without. To add to that, if I do end up getting the Vega, I might even be able to more comfortably splurge on the curved version of the monitor.
I'm so close to finally nailing what I want, but I'm nervous because I've never had an AMD card and don't know if Freesync is worth switching over. Any advice is extremely appreciated.
edit:
woooaaahhh holy moly this looks like a steal. Cheaper card PLUS $200 off the ultrawide PLUS two games I want? I think I might be sold on Vega.
edit again: oh nvm it's only the $900 Samsung. Since the bundle is $600 it's still $100 less than the 1080 Ti... but I'd really have to go out of my way for that monitor. God damn why does all of this have to be such a pain in the ass. I have a boatload of Amazon credit about to come in so whatever I buy has to be on there.
Bleh, now my credit card got rejected by newegg, and I'm waiting on their customer service...
edit: there's no one there, this is the worst
Must be a coffee break or something.
Purolator sent my 1700 back because they "had trouble delivering to the designated address" and Newegg CS' response was "well we refunded you so you can re-order it if you want" despite the only reason I bought it was due to it being on sale at the time.
Yeah, i'm waiting on Threadripper now and not tapping Newegg for that.
Would I be stupid to buy a 4K monitor if my PC can't really handle 4K 60hz? I have a 6700K/1070. I did consider getting a 1080 ti but ideally would like to wait until Volta comes out so I can get that kind of performance for a bit cheaper.
I want a larger screen with higher pixel density. My 1080p is not cutting it. Since the 1070 is not powerful enough for 4K i was thinking of just continue playing at 1440p but would it look bad? I guess I could also just run in window mode but then the G-sync feature wouldn't work right?
so i've had a problem since about this time on friday that i'm still trying to troubleshoot
- was playing a heavily modded cities: skylines and my computer suddenly black-screen crashed
- upon turning off the computer and trying to boot back in, the motherboard (ASUS Z97-PRO) LED cycled to the b2 code ("legacy option ROM initialization") and stayed there
- swapped out the GTX 780 in there for an HD 5850. managed to POST and get into windows (and was about to download AMD drivers), but promptly crashed after 5 minutes and would only boot to the same error code
- swapped out the 6-pin and 6+2-pin PSU cables I was using for the extras that came in the same box, same result
- booted without a GPU in any PCI-e slots, nothing wrong (POSTed, got into Windows, no crashes in games).
- swapped out the HD 5850 for a GT 430 I had lying around, similarly nothing wrong.
so it's either a GPU problem (given the error code), a PSU problem (given that the issues only happen when I try to run anything that requires the additional power), or both. what are my options if I don't have a spare PSU or know anyone willing to let me test?
(GPU is an EVGA GTX 780 SC that i already replaced two months ago; PSU is an EVGA SuperNova G2 750W. the GPU's still under warranty until 8/22, the PSU's under warranty until 2024.)
Depends on what games you play and how much you're willing to adjust settings. I'm happy with my 1070 at 1440p/144hz. I'd probably be mostly happy with it at 4k/60, just depends on the games you play.
I'm looking to sell my current PC I'm wondering if you guys think $750 is reasonable to ask for it.
I payed about $1400 for it initially but later upgraded the Mobo to a full ATX one added a water cooler to the CPU, got a new case, and side graded the PSU (same wattage different PSU). The list below reflects the current specs.