nightmare-slain
Gold Member
yeah they are still good as far as i know. i always buy them. i think if you want 7200rpm 2TB you need the black one
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
yeah they are still good as far as i know. i always buy them. i think if you want 7200rpm 2TB you need the black one
I looped back to that exact set of dimms, it's on an amd.com AM4 support list .pdf (link to the cache so ppl don't have to DL the direct .pdf):
https://webcache.googleusercontent....pport-list-en_0.pdf+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us
Booker.DeWitt
Member
I have a question. this is the first build I am doing, I should start building this weekend when my components come in the mail.
I bought this case:
http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P400-TemperedGlass.html
it comes with 2 fans, but I am planning to add 2 more fans (3 in front and in 1 the back).
for the total of 4 fans, where do I connect them? in the motherboard or PSU? This particular case has a fan control where you can choose the speed, so I guess to take advantage of that I need to plug in the mobo itself?
If I don't have enough plugs available in the mobo for 4 fans, what do I do?
I bought this case:
http://www.phanteks.com/Eclipse-P400-TemperedGlass.html
it comes with 2 fans, but I am planning to add 2 more fans (3 in front and in 1 the back).
for the total of 4 fans, where do I connect them? in the motherboard or PSU? This particular case has a fan control where you can choose the speed, so I guess to take advantage of that I need to plug in the mobo itself?
If I don't have enough plugs available in the mobo for 4 fans, what do I do?
Plug them into the motherboard. Typically there are 4 pin headers on the mobo labeled "CHA_FAN" or "CASE FAN" or something like that. If you don't have enough headers on the mobo, you can buy fan splitter cables that splits one header into two to connect two fans to one header. Molex connection is also an option if the fans still have that connection, which are connected to the power supply, but they are becoming rare now.
Since your case has a fan control header, you plug the fans in there, then I believe the fan control header pin goes to the mobo.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
I just checked the MOBO manual (asus b350 strix) and there is 3 cHA_Fan slots, and oneAIO_PUMP slot that looks exactly the same. can I connect my 4th fan to that AIO_Pump connector?
I want to say yes, but since I've never dealt with a mobo that had a AIO pump connector, I don't know if it works for sure. I don't see why it wouldn't, but maybe someone else with more experience with those can chime in.
so I just received most of my parts, should be getting the CPU and GPU tomorrow, but I'm thinking I might also need an extra fan. Does anyone have any recommendations regarding fans?
This is the case I'm getting:
http://www.coolermaster.com/case/mid-tower/masterbox-lite-5/
it has room for 3 fans in the front, but I'll only be putting 1 there and one in the back.
This is the case I'm getting:
http://www.coolermaster.com/case/mid-tower/masterbox-lite-5/
it has room for 3 fans in the front, but I'll only be putting 1 there and one in the back.
Canklestank
Neo Member
Late response, but I'm so jealous of this deal. I'd been checking Amazon Warehouse deals, but it hadn't occurred to me to check Adorama. I'll keep an eye out for a similar price. If you haven't already, let us know what condition it's in when it arrives!
That's a really good deal. I've bought used lenses from Adorama and they've always come as described. Never had an issue with them.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
ryzen 5 1600
RumblingRosco
Member
I'll share pics here when it arrives. It was listed on Ebay at $309 for a Buy It Now auction with a "Make an offer" option also available, so I offered $290 and it was instantly accepted. That was late Thursday night though and it hasn't shipped yet... I sent them a message via Ebay on Saturday but haven't heard back. I'm starting to wonder if it wasn't a mistake of some sort with pricing, but we'll see. I don't think $290 for a "very good" S2417DG is that low that they wouldn't honor the sale, but we'll see. Estimated delivery is this Thursday despite having not shipped yet.
Sounds promising! Thanks.
Can I expect the 1080TI prices to go down along with other videocards when this whole ethereum mining settles down, or will they stay at ~$800? also, are there any brands or models I should avoid or will pretty much any evga/asus/msi/gigabyte be good if I'm not going to be heavily overclocking it
I'm getting a 1440p 144hz gsync monitor which is why I'm looking to upgrade from the 970, but maybe a 1080ti is overkill and 1080 is good enough since neither will be maxing out all the games at 144hz?
I'm getting a 1440p 144hz gsync monitor which is why I'm looking to upgrade from the 970, but maybe a 1080ti is overkill and 1080 is good enough since neither will be maxing out all the games at 144hz?
Okay, gonna go with this, last check, looks good? Mobo is $125 from another store.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($266.50 @ shopRBC)
Motherboard: ASRock - Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($125.00 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($164.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($124.40 @ Amazon Canada)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card ($904.99 @ PC Canada)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1585.88 CAD
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-31 11:22 EDT-0400
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($266.50 @ shopRBC)
Motherboard: ASRock - Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($125.00 @ Vuugo)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($164.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($124.40 @ Amazon Canada)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card ($904.99 @ PC Canada)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00)
Total: $1585.88 CAD
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-31 11:22 EDT-0400
First time posting in this thread, looking to upgrade from my current build which is a 2500k.
Looking to get a good future proof build for gaming with good price to perf ratio.
This is what I have so far, I'd like to have some suggestions on what I can tweak or maybe cut back on thanks!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($308.87 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($57.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($204.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card ($719.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($104.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.77 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1796.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-31 11:44 EDT-0400
Looking to get a good future proof build for gaming with good price to perf ratio.
This is what I have so far, I'd like to have some suggestions on what I can tweak or maybe cut back on thanks!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($308.87 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($57.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus - MAXIMUS IX HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($204.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC Black Edition Video Card ($719.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($104.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.77 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1796.48
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-31 11:44 EDT-0400
fluffydelusions
Member
Guys what monitor should I get? Not to looking to spend a fortune as in more than $300. I have an nvidia 1060
RumblingRosco
Member
Looks really solid. You could save a bit if you cut from an M.2 to a standard SATA SSD; I don't know if the performance on M.2 is really much better, but it might be looking into if you want to save $20-$40.
It depends on your needs, but you might want to consider AMD's Ryzen 1600 with a matching motherboard and appropriate RAM. You can use the stock cooler for overclocking to 3.7-3.8 GHz, which would not only save you on the cost of a cooler, but the 1600 is cheaper than the 7700k anyway. You also can cut down easily to a 650w power supply to save a bit more money there.
I'll think about it, do some more research. I'm gonna pick up the ram/mobo/cpu today at least, the m.2 is on backorder at the store near me.
I really just want to have it as a gadget, lol. Maybe I'll buy a normal ssd and get an m.2 later.
Will keep reading up, thx.
I know I'm going to be super fucking annoying with this question but at least I think I already have the answer. Do we have any idea when consumer Volta is coming? I want to build a new rig and have every intention of going 1080ti. We don't expect a magical debut/release in the next month or three, right?
RumblingRosco
Member
We don't know for sure. The absolute earliest would be very late 2017, but it seems like early 2018 is the most accepted rumor these days.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
another stupid question (I am a noob, please be patient):
I am building a system with Ryzen 6 1600, gygabyte GTX 1080 windoforce.
My case is p400s, and it comes with 2 case fans(in front, one rear). 120mm
how many fans should I use? I plan to overclock the ryzen a bit, nothing fancy.
I was thinking adding a 140mm in the rear (exhaust), and put 2 120mm in the front as intake. Do I add a third fan as front intake? any need for top fans (exhaust or intake?)
I am building a system with Ryzen 6 1600, gygabyte GTX 1080 windoforce.
My case is p400s, and it comes with 2 case fans(in front, one rear). 120mm
how many fans should I use? I plan to overclock the ryzen a bit, nothing fancy.
I was thinking adding a 140mm in the rear (exhaust), and put 2 120mm in the front as intake. Do I add a third fan as front intake? any need for top fans (exhaust or intake?)
RumblingRosco
Member
It always varies by case, ambient temperature, and your components, but in general, having a slightly positive pressure (more air being pushed in than being pushed out) is considered beneficial. It's super rough, but what I do is look at the rated air displacement (cubic foot per minute, CFM) of each fan (which is often given for their max speed) and try to roughly balance my case fans based on their CFMs.
So if you have 2 fans at default, one front 120mm as an intake and one rear 120mm as an exhaust, and the intake fan is rated at 60 CFM while the exhaust fan is rated at 50 CFM, that means you should have slightly positive pressure (more air pushing in to your PC than being exhausted).
In general, one intake and one exhaust is probably "good enough" for most builds, but adding more certainly doesn't hurt, and adding more often gives you the option of reducing the RPMs of each fan so that they're individaually quieter, but still pull/push more air overall (basically, more fans = they can run slower/at a lower RPM = they run quieter = their quantity compensates for their reduced individual RPM).
If you want to add one more intake and one more exhaust to the two fans that are already included, I think that should more than suffice. More is fine and probably would let you see minor temperature improvements, but I do think there are some diminishing returns when you start getting into the 5+ case fan territory... though as mentioned at the beginning of the post, it's all case-by-case, so there's no one answer fits all.
Looking at your case, since it has very little venting on the side panels and the front panel is solid (with what I think are just small slits on the edges for air to get in?), it might make sense to add a few more fans than normal to help really pull air in; adding an exhaust fan to the top is probably not a bad idea at all since there's a bit less resistance there for air to get through since it is just a dust filter on top of the mesh, rather than a more closed-feeling like the front has.
Frankfurter
Member
2 fans + the GPU is just fine.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
nice, thank you for your explanation. I will probably add an extra f120mm front intake, for a total of 2 120mm front and 1 120mm exhaust. thanks
Braag
Member
I know this question isn't really best suited for this thread but I thought maybe someone here can still help me out with this issue.
I upgraded my PC about a month ago (Mobo, CPU, RAM) and everythings been working great so far, until today.
Out of nowhere my PC has completely lost sound. My speakers nor headphones have sound when plugged in.
I checked if "Windows Audio" and "Windows Audio Endpoint Builder" are running and on automatic, they are.
I made sure my onboard soundcard is enabled in BIOS, it is.
I uninstalled my audio drivers on 3 different occasions, first I let Windows 10 install them automatically again, then I tried installing the drivers which ASUS is providing on their website for my MOBO and lastly I tried installing the latest Realtek High Definition Audio Codecs from Realtek's website.
None of these worked.
The funny thing is under sound options I have Speakers and Realtek Digital Output enabled. Windows 10 troubleshooting says "Windows Audio" is not responding even though I've made sure it's running and restarted it several times.
When I try to play an audio file via windows media player I get the following message: "Windows Media Player cannot play the file because there is a problem with your sound device. There might not be a sound device installed on your computer, it might be in use by another program or it might not be functioning properly."
I've done everything and spent the entire day googling different solutions but nothing works. I guess my onboard soundcard is busted then?
I guess it's time to RMA my mobo?
I upgraded my PC about a month ago (Mobo, CPU, RAM) and everythings been working great so far, until today.
Out of nowhere my PC has completely lost sound. My speakers nor headphones have sound when plugged in.
I checked if "Windows Audio" and "Windows Audio Endpoint Builder" are running and on automatic, they are.
I made sure my onboard soundcard is enabled in BIOS, it is.
I uninstalled my audio drivers on 3 different occasions, first I let Windows 10 install them automatically again, then I tried installing the drivers which ASUS is providing on their website for my MOBO and lastly I tried installing the latest Realtek High Definition Audio Codecs from Realtek's website.
None of these worked.
The funny thing is under sound options I have Speakers and Realtek Digital Output enabled. Windows 10 troubleshooting says "Windows Audio" is not responding even though I've made sure it's running and restarted it several times.
When I try to play an audio file via windows media player I get the following message: "Windows Media Player cannot play the file because there is a problem with your sound device. There might not be a sound device installed on your computer, it might be in use by another program or it might not be functioning properly."
I've done everything and spent the entire day googling different solutions but nothing works. I guess my onboard soundcard is busted then?
I guess it's time to RMA my mobo?
Collateral22
Member
Planning on going from a 970+6600k to 1080ti+7700k on a 1440p 165hz setup. Should I upgrade my Mobo and RAM too or does that matter too much in higher fps? Currently have 8GB DDR4 2400mhz. Getting another 8GB anyways.
So my current PC is on the death row so I'm started doing some research building one from scratch. However, I don't really play many games these days because I don't have the time, so I'm not looking to get a top of the line machine. Nonetheless, I still want to be able to play Final Fantasy XIV and other games at max settings so it's not like I want something that's on a tight budget. As long as I can open 30 tabs on Chrome while playing an old game is good enough for me for now.
The problem is that I have no idea how much I should be spending for a machine like that. I don't mind spending between $1000-1500 CAD for a good machine but it kinda feels to high at times when I remember I only play new games on my PC aside from my MMOs once every 6 months. However, I also want the ability to run most new games that are coming out in the near future even if they're not running optimally. It's always nice to have the option so I don't want to hamstring myself. If I'm spending that type of money, then might as well get something good, right?
Here's a quick overview because I always wanted to fill this out:
Your Current Specs: lol
Budget: $1000-1500
Main Use: Light gaming (FFXIV mostly), Streaming games in HD (3), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (5)
Monitor Resolution: 1080p but willing to upgrade to 1440p if it fits the budget. I will be buying a new monitor too.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Final Fantasy XIV at 1080/60fps is the bare minimum.
When will you build: Over the next month or two. I don't have a set deadline but the sooner I can upgrade the better.
Will you be overclocking?: I want to say no but I just know that I'll end up saying yes in the end.
Sorry for all the noob questions. I'm still reading through a bunch of guides which are really helpful to find out what I need, but I also wanted to get some more personal help on how to begin tackling this so that's why I'm posting here despite not having much so far.
The problem is that I have no idea how much I should be spending for a machine like that. I don't mind spending between $1000-1500 CAD for a good machine but it kinda feels to high at times when I remember I only play new games on my PC aside from my MMOs once every 6 months. However, I also want the ability to run most new games that are coming out in the near future even if they're not running optimally. It's always nice to have the option so I don't want to hamstring myself. If I'm spending that type of money, then might as well get something good, right?
Here's a quick overview because I always wanted to fill this out:
Your Current Specs: lol
Budget: $1000-1500
Main Use: Light gaming (FFXIV mostly), Streaming games in HD (3), General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) (5)
Monitor Resolution: 1080p but willing to upgrade to 1440p if it fits the budget. I will be buying a new monitor too.
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Final Fantasy XIV at 1080/60fps is the bare minimum.
When will you build: Over the next month or two. I don't have a set deadline but the sooner I can upgrade the better.
Will you be overclocking?: I want to say no but I just know that I'll end up saying yes in the end.
Sorry for all the noob questions. I'm still reading through a bunch of guides which are really helpful to find out what I need, but I also wanted to get some more personal help on how to begin tackling this so that's why I'm posting here despite not having much so far.
RumblingRosco
Member
No need for a new mobo unless your current one specifically lacks features you need (more RAM slots, some obscure connector, etc). I would think there's no reason to replace the mobo.
Upgrading to 16 GB of RAM is a nice idea though. I wouldn't worry about replacing your current sticks, but just buy another 8GB of the stick(s) you already have and pop 'em in. 16 GB isn't a requirement by any means, but it can help if you've got a lot going on at once.
Things I think about when I am building a PC:
I think a $1,000-$1,500 CAD budget is plenty to get a solid system for most modern games and FFXIV at 1080p, and honestly, you can probably push into 1440p territory pretty easily with that budget (if my Canadian mental budget is correct - all my prices are USD which tends to be a bit easier on the wallet). If you want 1440p, you'll really need to look at at least an Nvidia 1070; the 1060 6GB can do some 1440p, but with pretty significant sacrifices in quality for most games. The 1070 isn't perfect at 1440p, but will handle it pretty dang well. As a starter, you might want to look at this Logical Increments guide - for FFXIV at 1440p, you'll probably want to aim for the Excellent-level build (if not one tier higher) to make sure your bases are covered. This isn't the end-all-be-all of guides, but is a nice rough starting point.
This is my final specs. End up going with 1080 lol. Will use this with my existing Dell U2515H and cintiq 13"
I hope the G1 gaming won't have coil whine though >_<
Great build. That'll carry you far. Have fun building it, tweaking it, and gaming on it
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
This is my final specs. End up going with 1080 lol. Will use this with my existing Dell U2515H and cintiq 13"
I hope the G1 gaming won't have coil whine though >_<
Almost every card has coil whine depending on load; just a matter of how audible it is. It's not a defect as much it is the nature of the technology.
I think most manufacturers now accept excessive coil whine as a grounds for RMA though, so if you get one that's mouthing off really bad you could potentially replace it. Whether you get one that's quieter is, of course, another luck of the draw.
NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 965M 2GB GPU
This is apparently what's in the Surface Book.
If a buy a Surface Book and a Surface Dock, will I be able to make use of NVIDIA G-Sync, such as in the Dell S2716DG 27.0" monitor that the dock would help me hook up to?
Or am I not understanding this Surface Dock thing at all?
This is apparently what's in the Surface Book.
If a buy a Surface Book and a Surface Dock, will I be able to make use of NVIDIA G-Sync, such as in the Dell S2716DG 27.0" monitor that the dock would help me hook up to?
Or am I not understanding this Surface Dock thing at all?
Hands of Stone
Member
Whats the best program to recover data from a hard drive?
I dunno how but my secondary drive wiped itself on Saturday night. I've scanned the drive using the windows check disk utility and CrystalDiskInfo, both showed no errors.
Bought 2 more HDD's, I just wanna transfer any data I can salvage but I'm not sure which (ideally free) program to use.
I dunno how but my secondary drive wiped itself on Saturday night. I've scanned the drive using the windows check disk utility and CrystalDiskInfo, both showed no errors.
Bought 2 more HDD's, I just wanna transfer any data I can salvage but I'm not sure which (ideally free) program to use.
Hi all, a little off topic, but I'm beginning to get desperate. I'm looking for a bit of advice.
I have a brand new EVGA GTX1060 6GB and I think it's faulty. I installed it and when I booted up there were a lot of artifacts on the screen (horizontal lines flickering). I assumed it was because I needed to install drivers so I installed the drivers from the cd. After rebooting it seemed ok, I played a few games and everything seemed fine. The next day I boot up my machine and notice very faint horizontal lines, barely visible. I decided to check for updated drivers, downloaded and installed them.
After installing I rebooted and now I get absolutely nothing on my display. Not even the boot splash screen. My display just goes from "no signal" message to a plain black screen. I can remote access my PC and took a look at the device manager which says "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)"
I have googled it and there are a few reports of similar issues. I have tried most so called solutions without success. I have uninstalled it, removed drivers using DDU and re-installed, updated the motherboard bios, held down the power button for over a minute. Nothing has changed.
So that's my current situation, if anyone has experienced this, is my GPU dead? Should I keep searching for a solution or should I just accept that the GPU is dead and RMA it?
Any advice would be appreciated, I'm literally having a sleepless night!
I have a brand new EVGA GTX1060 6GB and I think it's faulty. I installed it and when I booted up there were a lot of artifacts on the screen (horizontal lines flickering). I assumed it was because I needed to install drivers so I installed the drivers from the cd. After rebooting it seemed ok, I played a few games and everything seemed fine. The next day I boot up my machine and notice very faint horizontal lines, barely visible. I decided to check for updated drivers, downloaded and installed them.
After installing I rebooted and now I get absolutely nothing on my display. Not even the boot splash screen. My display just goes from "no signal" message to a plain black screen. I can remote access my PC and took a look at the device manager which says "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)"
I have googled it and there are a few reports of similar issues. I have tried most so called solutions without success. I have uninstalled it, removed drivers using DDU and re-installed, updated the motherboard bios, held down the power button for over a minute. Nothing has changed.
So that's my current situation, if anyone has experienced this, is my GPU dead? Should I keep searching for a solution or should I just accept that the GPU is dead and RMA it?
Any advice would be appreciated, I'm literally having a sleepless night!
RumblingRosco
Member
I doubt this'll fix it, but try removing your GPU and reinstalling it.
Back again, and now after having done some more research I really want some advice on what card to buy. After having spent the last week or so looking at the top end cards and ultrawide monitors, I've finally decided for sure that I want an ultrawide. I'll be getting a refurbished LG 34UM88C (probably not curved since holy moly that is expensive, but it's still up in the air for now). 3440x1440, 60hz, Freesync. I don't play competitive shooters or MOBAs or anything, so I really don't mind capping at 60fps and would prefer the higher resolution and aspect ratio.
All that said, I'm now at a standstill. I was planning on sucking it up and getting a 1080 Ti that will last me for a good number of years and pairing that with the flat LG ultrawide. Unfortunately... I've only just realized that adaptive framerate just straight up won't work with that setup. Cut me some slack please, I'm new. �� So my question to you guys is: should I get a Vega? Ultrawide with G-Sync is waaaaay out of my budget, so it's either the 1080-level Vega with working Freesync, or the more powerful 1080 Ti without. To add to that, if I do end up getting the Vega, I might even be able to more comfortably splurge on the curved version of the monitor.
I'm so close to finally nailing what I want, but I'm nervous because I've never had an AMD card and don't know if Freesync is worth switching over. Any advice is extremely appreciated.
edit:
woooaaahhh holy moly this looks like a steal. Cheaper card PLUS $200 off the ultrawide PLUS two games I want? I think I might be sold on Vega.
edit again: oh nvm it's only the $900 Samsung. Since the bundle is $600 it's still $100 less than the 1080 Ti... but I'd really have to go out of my way for that monitor. God damn why does all of this have to be such a pain in the ass. I have a boatload of Amazon credit about to come in so whatever I buy has to be on there.
All that said, I'm now at a standstill. I was planning on sucking it up and getting a 1080 Ti that will last me for a good number of years and pairing that with the flat LG ultrawide. Unfortunately... I've only just realized that adaptive framerate just straight up won't work with that setup. Cut me some slack please, I'm new. �� So my question to you guys is: should I get a Vega? Ultrawide with G-Sync is waaaaay out of my budget, so it's either the 1080-level Vega with working Freesync, or the more powerful 1080 Ti without. To add to that, if I do end up getting the Vega, I might even be able to more comfortably splurge on the curved version of the monitor.
I'm so close to finally nailing what I want, but I'm nervous because I've never had an AMD card and don't know if Freesync is worth switching over. Any advice is extremely appreciated.
edit:
woooaaahhh holy moly this looks like a steal. Cheaper card PLUS $200 off the ultrawide PLUS two games I want? I think I might be sold on Vega.
edit again: oh nvm it's only the $900 Samsung. Since the bundle is $600 it's still $100 less than the 1080 Ti... but I'd really have to go out of my way for that monitor. God damn why does all of this have to be such a pain in the ass. I have a boatload of Amazon credit about to come in so whatever I buy has to be on there.
Hi, yeah tried that too. Checked all connections over again. I even removed it and booted from the onboard graphics (which works fine).
RumblingRosco
Member
Might be time to return it then, or if you can't do that, RMA it. You're sure your PSU has a high enough wattage for it right?
I'm looking to sell my current PC I'm wondering if you guys think $750 is reasonable to ask for it.
I payed about $1400 for it initially but later upgraded the Mobo to a full ATX one added a water cooler to the CPU, got a new case, and side graded the PSU (same wattage different PSU). The list below reflects the current specs.
I payed about $1400 for it initially but later upgraded the Mobo to a full ATX one added a water cooler to the CPU, got a new case, and side graded the PSU (same wattage different PSU). The list below reflects the current specs.
600watt PSU, thanks for your help. I think it's time to call it a day and return it.
Wait a little longer until benchmarks for RX Vega come out from reviewers. Then decide from there.
Bleh, now my credit card got rejected by newegg, and I'm waiting on their customer service...
edit: there's no one there, this is the worst
Must be a coffee break or something.
Purolator sent my 1700 back because they "had trouble delivering to the designated address" and Newegg CS' response was "well we refunded you so you can re-order it if you want" despite the only reason I bought it was due to it being on sale at the time.
Yeah, i'm waiting on Threadripper now and not tapping Newegg for that.
Bleh, customer service tried to help, just said to cancel and resub. Went with standard visa over "verified by visa" and declined again.
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
Would I be stupid to buy a 4K monitor if my PC can't really handle 4K 60hz? I have a 6700K/1070. I did consider getting a 1080 ti but ideally would like to wait until Volta comes out so I can get that kind of performance for a bit cheaper.
I want a larger screen with higher pixel density. My 1080p is not cutting it. Since the 1070 is not powerful enough for 4K i was thinking of just continue playing at 1440p but would it look bad? I guess I could also just run in window mode but then the G-sync feature wouldn't work right?
I want a larger screen with higher pixel density. My 1080p is not cutting it. Since the 1070 is not powerful enough for 4K i was thinking of just continue playing at 1440p but would it look bad? I guess I could also just run in window mode but then the G-sync feature wouldn't work right?
opticalmace
Member
Depends on what games you play and how much you're willing to adjust settings. I'm happy with my 1070 at 1440p/144hz. I'd probably be mostly happy with it at 4k/60, just depends on the games you play.
eBay Huckster
Member
i've got an update!
- barebones worked throughout today
- the PCI-e slots worked with another HD 5850 that didn't have a blind idiot install the heatsink, but my SSD and HDD suddenly stopped showing up anywhere and now don't even show up as slave drives on another PC
pretty sure my friend and i managed to isolate it to either the mobo (ASUS Z97-PRO(Wi-Fi ac)), PSU, or both. also pretty sure i need to harass someone at Crucial, because my SSD should still be under warranty for at least another week or three. have submitted an RMA request for the HDD already, while i'm still working through things with ASUS and EVGA to get to the RMA process
nightmare-slain
Gold Member
i'm about to put a second 1TB drive into my PC and i hope to use it to back up files from my main 1TB ssd and also serve files to my PS4 through DLNA. if anything were ever to happen to my PC would i be able to remove the secondary drive and stick it into another PC and still access all the files? i wouldn't need to format it, right? it's just i currently have an external HDD that i have all my files stored onto but i'm tired of constantly inserting/removing it into both my PS4/PC. i have looked into a NAS drive but they are too expensive.
right now i have GTA V, The Witcher 3, Gwent, Rocket League, Diablo 3, Overwatch, Elder Scrolls: Online installed.
I play them all at 1440p 60fps except for Rocket League at 1800p because that's as far as my monitor will let me go to downsample.
right now i have GTA V, The Witcher 3, Gwent, Rocket League, Diablo 3, Overwatch, Elder Scrolls: Online installed.
I play them all at 1440p 60fps except for Rocket League at 1800p because that's as far as my monitor will let me go to downsample.
RumblingRosco
Member
That seems like a very fair price.