What kind of features does z390 bring to the table?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
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What kind of features does z390 bring to the table?
I see it on newegg.com but I ordered my gfx card from newegg.ca and it says sold out, so I dunno :\
i don't know wtf i'm talking about and i need to keep reading up on things
I believe the chipset has on-board wifi, USB 3.1, and Bluetooth 5
Sparrowhawk
Member
Hey guys, here's my very first build from way back in late 2013.
The only things I've upgraded since 2013 was switching out a GTX 760 for the 980 when they came out, upgrading from Windows 8.1 to 10, and switching out the stock CPU fan for a GlacialTech Igloo 1100.
I'm looking to start upgrading sometime later this year or in early 2018. I'll probably end up getting another 2x4GB RAM since 8GB doesn't feel as sufficient as it did a few years ago. I'm also thinking of getting a 1080 and then selling my 980 - is this a good idea, or should I just wait at this point? The 980 was great when I had a 1080p monitor, but I upgraded to a 1440p 144hz Gsync monitor and it struggles with some newer stuff at that resolution. Another thing is my mobo being pretty meh even for 2013 standards, but I'm afraid that I'll have to buy Windows again since I upgraded to 10 from an 8.1 OEM disc.
Anyway, I'm totally open to suggestions, but I'm not trying to spend a ton or completely overhaul my build unless I have to.
The only things I've upgraded since 2013 was switching out a GTX 760 for the 980 when they came out, upgrading from Windows 8.1 to 10, and switching out the stock CPU fan for a GlacialTech Igloo 1100.
I'm looking to start upgrading sometime later this year or in early 2018. I'll probably end up getting another 2x4GB RAM since 8GB doesn't feel as sufficient as it did a few years ago. I'm also thinking of getting a 1080 and then selling my 980 - is this a good idea, or should I just wait at this point? The 980 was great when I had a 1080p monitor, but I upgraded to a 1440p 144hz Gsync monitor and it struggles with some newer stuff at that resolution. Another thing is my mobo being pretty meh even for 2013 standards, but I'm afraid that I'll have to buy Windows again since I upgraded to 10 from an 8.1 OEM disc.
Anyway, I'm totally open to suggestions, but I'm not trying to spend a ton or completely overhaul my build unless I have to.
Phatosaurus
Member
Hey guys, here's my very first build from way back in late 2013.
The only things I've upgraded since 2013 was switching out a GTX 760 for the 980 when they came out, upgrading from Windows 8.1 to 10, and switching out the stock CPU fan for a GlacialTech Igloo 1100.
I'm looking to start upgrading sometime later this year or in early 2018. I'll probably end up getting another 2x4GB RAM since 8GB doesn't feel as sufficient as it did a few years ago. I'm also thinking of getting a 1080 and then selling my 980 - is this a good idea, or should I just wait at this point? The 980 was great when I had a 1080p monitor, but I upgraded to a 1440p 144hz Gsync monitor and it struggles with some newer stuff at that resolution. Another thing is my mobo being pretty meh even for 2013 standards, but I'm afraid that I'll have to buy Windows again since I upgraded to 10 from an 8.1 OEM disc.
Anyway, I'm totally open to suggestions, but I'm not trying to spend a ton or completely overhaul my build unless I have to.
Looks like whatever you go for, it'll be a case of upgrading the CPU/MOBO/RAM at the bare minimum.
I find the Ryzen 1600 hits 144FPS while paired with a 1080 quite consistently, depending on the game, but if you were to go Intel, it's hard to recommend anything other than the 7700K, and even that's hard to recommend right now.
Unless you want to shop around for a second hand i7K on the same socket, but then I'm not sure if it'd be worthwhile to go that route since I'm not sure if you can overclock on your current motherboard.
Considering on getting the MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti DUKE. Anybody with this card have any impressions on it? Don't see a lot of videos about it online or anything.
ISee
Member
Native Support for WiFi and USB 3.1 (Controlled by CPU instead of third party chips). This will improve compatibility and free up pci lanes.
ISee
Member
Hey guys, here's my very first build from way back in late 2013.
The only things I've upgraded since 2013 was switching out a GTX 760 for the 980 when they came out, upgrading from Windows 8.1 to 10, and switching out the stock CPU fan for a GlacialTech Igloo 1100.
I'm looking to start upgrading sometime later this year or in early 2018. I'll probably end up getting another 2x4GB RAM since 8GB doesn't feel as sufficient as it did a few years ago. I'm also thinking of getting a 1080 and then selling my 980 - is this a good idea, or should I just wait at this point? The 980 was great when I had a 1080p monitor, but I upgraded to a 1440p 144hz Gsync monitor and it struggles with some newer stuff at that resolution. Another thing is my mobo being pretty meh even for 2013 standards, but I'm afraid that I'll have to buy Windows again since I upgraded to 10 from an 8.1 OEM disc.
Anyway, I'm totally open to suggestions, but I'm not trying to spend a ton or completely overhaul my build unless I have to.
980s and 1060s are very similar performance wise, with the 980 being a bit more powerful when overclocked. A 1080 is ~70% more powerful then a 980, so this is a huge step up in performance.
You CPU is still fine for 60 fps (at every resolution), but you'll need something more powerful if you want to reach consistent 100+ fps in every game (that's in general the problem with very high refresh rates, you need a lot CPU and GPU power for that and you also need to upgrade more often because of it). For very high FPS the 7700k is currently the best option, with the 8700k taking the throne (probably!) in the near future (~mid October). The best mid-high range CPU for new builds is currently the R5 1600 paried with a b350 board.
Newer/modern MBs will offer you the option go for nvme (m2) drives and usb 3.1, not really a deal breaker as of right now (e.g. NVME drives are faster but the real life performance gains over sata ssds are minimal) .
More RAM can be helpful, but it's not mandatory. I would only recommend going for 16 GB of DDR3 if you plan to stay on your MB/CPU for the next 2-3 years, because you won't be able to reuse it in a new build.
Your windows 10 License is bound to your Microsoft account and not to your hardware. You can reinstall windows 10 as often as you want and you can also use your License for a new PC (but the old PC needs to be deactivated; easily done in your microsoft account settings).
Thing on a Spring
Member
Hopefully someone can help me out. My brother has a gaming pc with the following components (has since upgraded to 16gb ram) and is interested in playing pubg at high or ultra settings at 1080p 60fps. He checked canirunit and was told that he needed to upgrade his processor. When he asked around, he was told that he needed to upgrade his mobo to accommodate a new processor. We're both noobs when it comes to PC gaming so I was hoping someone here could advise on some possible compatible upgrades to allow him to play this at these settings comfortably. He's not fussy about particular brands, just unsure of the required components. Any help is greatly appreciated.
ISee
Member
Hopefully someone can help me out. My brother has a gaming pc with the following components (has since upgraded to 16gb ram) and is interested in playing pubg at high or ultra settings at 1080p 60fps. He checked canirunit and was told that he needed to upgrade his processor. When he asked around, he was told that he needed to upgrade his mobo to accommodate a new processor. We're both noobs when it comes to PC gaming so I was hoping someone here could advise on some possible compatible upgrades to allow him to play this at these settings comfortably. He's not fussy about particular brands, just unsure of the required components. Any help is greatly appreciated.
PUBG is a pretty demanding game and going for 1080p/60 on ultra settings isn't an easy task.
A GTX 1060 (oc) is good enough to push the game at 1080p/60 on medium-high settings. If you want high-ultra you'll need a 1070 or something better. The best 1060/1060 cards on the market are EVGA FTW, MSI Gaming X, Asus Strix, Gigabyte G1
He will also need new RAM, a new CPU, and a new MB. An i5 7600k or a r5 1600 should be enough. I'd recommend going for the r5 1600 and to oc it to 3.8-3.9 GHz (4GHz are also sometimes possible, but it's not the norm). Get a nice B350 board to the r5 1600 and 16GB of DDR4 (higher clock speeds are preferable, 3000 MHz+). Check the MBs ram compatibility list before buying though.
The PSU can stay. No need to get a new one.
Quick question:
I have to build a new PC, all parts are arriving nicely, but Amazon will probably ship a single thing too late: Windows. And that's really annoying (especially when you paid extra for quick delivery)
I believe it's possible to install Windows 10 (Home, 64 bits) without a product key, and enter the product key later. Is there anything wrong by doing it this way? Do I need to be careful for anything (I really won't want to install it twice)?
The Windows I should receive is a Windows 10 32/64 Home, full version...
Also, is there a risk in installing Office 2016 (official, home&student version) *before* registering Windows itself?
I have to build a new PC, all parts are arriving nicely, but Amazon will probably ship a single thing too late: Windows. And that's really annoying (especially when you paid extra for quick delivery)
I believe it's possible to install Windows 10 (Home, 64 bits) without a product key, and enter the product key later. Is there anything wrong by doing it this way? Do I need to be careful for anything (I really won't want to install it twice)?
The Windows I should receive is a Windows 10 32/64 Home, full version...
Also, is there a risk in installing Office 2016 (official, home&student version) *before* registering Windows itself?
Still a couple months out from finishing my build but looking at grabbing the gpu this week. Was going to hold out until the bitter end and grab an EVGA 1080ti with the hopes of stepping up to Volta early next year but it doesn't sound like Nvidia is in a hurry to get Volta out.
TitanNut88
Member
Gaf, I need your help. This is my actual build:
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 4.40 GHz
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-D3H
RAM: G.Skill Trident X DDR3 2400 PC3-19200 16GB 2x8GB CL10
Graphics Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 Ti OC Windforce 3GB GDDR5
Power Supply: Corsair RM850 850W 80 Plus Gold Modular
SSD: Samsung 840 Evo SSD Series 250GB SATA3
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 2TB SATA3 64MB
Heatsink: Thermaltake Water 3.0 Pro 2x120mm
Case: Cooler Master CM Storm Enforcer
OS: Windows 10 Pro x64
I think it performs quite well for its age, but it may need some modifications to run games at 1440p 60fps with very high or ultra graphics. What do you think I should improve? Is it now the time to do that or I can keep living with it for some more years?
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 4.40 GHz
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-D3H
RAM: G.Skill Trident X DDR3 2400 PC3-19200 16GB 2x8GB CL10
Graphics Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 Ti OC Windforce 3GB GDDR5
Power Supply: Corsair RM850 850W 80 Plus Gold Modular
SSD: Samsung 840 Evo SSD Series 250GB SATA3
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 2TB SATA3 64MB
Heatsink: Thermaltake Water 3.0 Pro 2x120mm
Case: Cooler Master CM Storm Enforcer
OS: Windows 10 Pro x64
I think it performs quite well for its age, but it may need some modifications to run games at 1440p 60fps with very high or ultra graphics. What do you think I should improve? Is it now the time to do that or I can keep living with it for some more years?
JonnyDBrit
Member
GPU is the only thing that would need replacing. Pick up a GTX 1070 or a Vega 56 (if you can find one) and you're good to go.
Thing on a Spring
Member
Thank you very much for your help!
I'm with JonnyDBrit.
You and I have very similar builds, just get yourself at least a GTX 1070/RX Vega 56 or higher and you can do 1440p/60fps easily.
Voidwolf
Member
Don't worry about running Windows without the product key installed. Once you get your copy form Amazon it's as simple as entering the key that comes with it while having an internet connection and it'll activate. I'm not sure about Office, but I don't see why you would have an issue.
ISee
Member
JonnyDBrit and kuYuri are of course right. You need a new GPU, and a GTX 1070 is able to hit 1440p/60 and a Vega 56 is even better at it. BUT at least consider getting a GTX 1080 or Vega 64.
I upgraded to 1440p last year and I bought a GTX 1070 with my new monitor. I tried a couple of games and wasn't happy with the performance and the amount of settings I had to reduce to reach 60 fps (and I sacrifice settings in order to get better performance without hessitation). Amazon was so kind to allow me to return my 1070 and I ordered a GTX 1080 instead. It's a much better 1440p experience.
That said, a GTX 1070 will run games better at 1440p then your 780 Ti at 1080p....
TitanNut88
Member
Thanks all for your replies. I made some price comparisons and that is the output (in Spain):
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1 Gaming ~459,00
ASUS RoG Strix GTX 1080 OC ~689,00
Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G ~815,21
I think the 1080 Ti is now the price of the 1080 the last time I saw it, but both are too expensive for me to worth the upgrade today. Taking into account that the PC is not my main gaming platform (I still prefer the PS4 overall experience), I think I will wait for a price drop and then get the 1080 Ti. If I do so, will I get any kind of bottleneck with the rest of the components?
Jeff Stephen
Member
RumblingRosco
Member
I'm putting a new 1 TB SSD in my PC today and have a question. Here's my current setup:
1) 240 GB SSD (boot drive; won't be touching this)
2) 2.5 TB HDD (currently empty)
3) 500 GB HDD (I will replace this with the 1 TB SSD)
I will replace the 500 GB HDD with my 1 TB SSD. I want to copy the files (music mainly) and software (a few games and productivity software) to my new SSD. But, I don't want to deal with running another power/SATA cable, so I plan to move all the files from the 500 GB HDD to my 2.5 TB HDD, remove the 500 GB HDD, then install the 1 TB SSD and copy the files from the 2.5 TB HDD to the new 1 TB SSD.
Moving the music files will be very easy, but I'm wondering if there's any tricks or software I need to use to successfully copy the software without somehow breaking the software. Trying to avoid the need to reinstall 5-10 individual software if I can help it. Is it as simple as drag and drop?
Any suggestions?
1) 240 GB SSD (boot drive; won't be touching this)
2) 2.5 TB HDD (currently empty)
3) 500 GB HDD (I will replace this with the 1 TB SSD)
I will replace the 500 GB HDD with my 1 TB SSD. I want to copy the files (music mainly) and software (a few games and productivity software) to my new SSD. But, I don't want to deal with running another power/SATA cable, so I plan to move all the files from the 500 GB HDD to my 2.5 TB HDD, remove the 500 GB HDD, then install the 1 TB SSD and copy the files from the 2.5 TB HDD to the new 1 TB SSD.
Moving the music files will be very easy, but I'm wondering if there's any tricks or software I need to use to successfully copy the software without somehow breaking the software. Trying to avoid the need to reinstall 5-10 individual software if I can help it. Is it as simple as drag and drop?
Any suggestions?
JonnyDBrit
Member
Not especially so, though perhaps more as time goes on and the industry gets used to higher core counts as a default, thanks to the current competition between AMD's Ryzen and Intel. In that regard, I'd say wait on any CPU considerations just to see where the market is going.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Could pick up a used 970 if you're desperate.
JonnyDBrit
Member
On par with, slightly behind a 1060, so it'll handle most games at high or ultra settings at 1080p just fine, with minor tweaks here or there. Around half the currently inflated prices, depending on what you get and where from. Easy to pick up around ebay and the like.
Wait or either spend a little more for the 6gb version. $279 for the 6gb short EVGA one
TitanNut88
Member
Thanks again!
Canklestank
Neo Member
Yeah, and since you said that I've had my eye open for similar deals. I've got an Amazon and eBay tracker set up, but so far everything's been over $350 for used monitors. I think my best bet might be Black Friday.
What does everyone think will come first: Entry-level 8c16t Intel i7 or AMD Thunderbolt 3 support? I have a feeling both will be a few years away.
EDIT:
I would use software like Macrium Reflect or whatever to clone the drive, store the image on your 2.5 TB and restore it on your SSD. I would also make sure you make sure your SSD has the same drive letter as the 500GB, just to ensure maximum compatibility. I think that should work without breaking anything.
RumblingRosco
Member
People told me that the $290 deal for mine wasn't "that good" because you can get the monitor new for $350 regularly, but I'm super skeptical that we'll see a $350 new deal anytime soon. It seems like the word is out that they're great monitors for the price and it looks like prices have risen steadily in the past half year. So, I was and still am psyched about that price. It's the only time I'd ever seen it listed at under $315, so I was surprised they took my $290 offer.
And thanks for the MacRef suggestion. I'd heard of it and was considering that option, but was looking for a second opinion. Seems like an easy route, so I'm gonna work on that now. Thanks again.
Many thanks, that could be hugely helpful if I have everything except Windows tomorrow (since I need to leave thursday morning).
Being able to install everything, then entering the key in a couple days/weeks will be wonderful. Fingers crossed (for Office, too...)
RumblingRosco
Member
I just saw a LinusTechTips video where they sprayed water on a graphics card on accident, and to fix it, they poured a shit ton if isopropanol on it, then let it evaporate. Has anyone ever done something like that or seen it done? It actually makes sense to me, but it blew my mind watching them do it.
RumblingRosco
Member
Hey so I ended up getting the 1080 ti asus srtix oc, I'm excitedbut I saw nvida is giving away destiny 2 free with purchase. But Amazon is telling me they're not doing that promo? Any help??
Not all retailers run the promo, for whatever reason. I don't think you can get the code unless you buy it from a participating retailer, but you might be able to hit-up Nvidia directly and see if they'll hook you up.
Well Amazon is listed under as a retailer, but the customer service rep was like nope. So I'm confused. I may just hit up Nvidia directly
Super excitedjust placed the order! My very first custom PC. Went with a white aesthetic, even down to the PSU. It all arrives Friday.
As an aside, I had an absolute nightmare trying to order this from Amazon. They locked my account, erased my order transaction history, and removed all my digital content (e.g. Mr. Robot Season 2 on my Amazon account). After chats and emails they now want me to fax over information I've already provided several timesI don't have a fax machineand I said screw it, I'm done. Placed the order through Newegg and got ZERO problems. I even got Destiny 2 for free and $20 off the RAM.
I'll Google self-help guides on how to go about building a PC. Anyone aware of any particularly helpful starter guides or tutorials? Perhaps someone is aware of guides that will be especially helpful with the case/parts I ordered?
Thanks for your help through this ride! Can't wait.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($323.28 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-Z270X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($181.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($157.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($327.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Aorus Waterforce Xtreme Edition Video Card ($824.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx White 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor ($644.99 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Logitech - G Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech - G703 (White) Wireless Optical Mouse ($99.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $3051.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-22 18:01 EDT-0400
It all arrives Friday.As an aside, I had an absolute nightmare trying to order this from Amazon. They locked my account, erased my order transaction history, and removed all my digital content (e.g. Mr. Robot Season 2 on my Amazon account). After chats and emails they now want me to fax over information I've already provided several timesI don't have a fax machineand I said screw it, I'm done. Placed the order through Newegg and got ZERO problems. I even got Destiny 2 for free and $20 off the RAM.
I'll Google self-help guides on how to go about building a PC. Anyone aware of any particularly helpful starter guides or tutorials? Perhaps someone is aware of guides that will be especially helpful with the case/parts I ordered?
Thanks for your help through this ride! Can't wait.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($323.28 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-Z270X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($181.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($157.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($327.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Aorus Waterforce Xtreme Edition Video Card ($824.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx White 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor ($644.99 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Logitech - G Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech - G703 (White) Wireless Optical Mouse ($99.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $3051.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-22 18:01 EDT-0400
Did you try providing a screenshot or something showing that Amazon is part of the promo or maybe try talking to another Amazon rep?
Super excitedjust placed the order! My very first custom PC. Went with a white aesthetic, even down to the PSU.
As an aside, I had an absolute nightmare trying to order this from Amazon. They locked my account, erased my order transaction history, and removed all my digital content (e.g. Mr. Robot Season 2 on my Amazon account). After chats and emails they now want me to fax over information I've already provided several timesI don't have a fax machineand I said screw it, I'm done. Placed the order through Newegg and got ZERO problems. I even got Destiny 2 for free and $20 off the RAM.
I'll Google self-help guides on how to go about building a PC. Anyone aware of any particularly helpful starter guides or tutorials? Perhaps someone is aware of guides that will be especially helpful with the case/parts I ordered?
Thanks for your help through this ride! Can't wait.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($323.28 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-Z270X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($181.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($157.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($327.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Aorus Waterforce Xtreme Edition Video Card ($824.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx White 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor ($644.99 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Logitech - G Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech - G703 (White) Wireless Optical Mouse ($99.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $3051.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-22 18:01 EDT-0400
You missed the opportunity to purchase the white 1080 Ti from Gigabyte. Oh well.
I showed her a link and all she said was idk, should I try another rep?
Did you try providing a screenshot or something showing that Amazon is part of the promo or maybe try talking to another Amazon rep?
You missed the opportunity to purchase the white 1080 Ti from Gigabyte. Oh well.
Wait, what?! I can still return this one and get the white one if it's still available.
Is there a Waterforce AIO GPU 1080ti from Gigabyte available that's white???
MUST HAVE
Guys quick question:
I have an old 2500k, a CoolerMaster 750w PSU and an Asus mobo from 2012 as well. They are all pretty old I know but as of recently I've been getting a lot of BSOD when I run any type of OC. It started when I pushed the CPU to 4.8GHz I think but now even with a mild 4.0GHz OC I still get them occasionally.
I got really worried when one time after turning on the PC it smelled funny, like a dead PSU but everything has been working fine when there's no OC.
Which component is at fault here? I'm leaning more towards PSU but thought I'd ask since I know it could be the CPU or the mobo's power delivery when OC'ed.
I have an old 2500k, a CoolerMaster 750w PSU and an Asus mobo from 2012 as well. They are all pretty old I know but as of recently I've been getting a lot of BSOD when I run any type of OC. It started when I pushed the CPU to 4.8GHz I think but now even with a mild 4.0GHz OC I still get them occasionally.
I got really worried when one time after turning on the PC it smelled funny, like a dead PSU but everything has been working fine when there's no OC.
Which component is at fault here? I'm leaning more towards PSU but thought I'd ask since I know it could be the CPU or the mobo's power delivery when OC'ed.
eBay Huckster
Member
and my month-long RMA nightmare continues, as it turns out EVGA sent my replacement GPU to my former apartment's address even after I updated my account's shipping address
(getting a supervisor to look at the case & my ex-landlord's checking with the new tenants to make sure they didn't just throw it away, but jesus)
(getting a supervisor to look at the case & my ex-landlord's checking with the new tenants to make sure they didn't just throw it away, but jesus)
It's not waterforce unfortunately, it's one of their air cooled gaming ones.
http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TGAMING-OC-11G#kf
Galax also has one, but I dunno if they sell here in the US?
http://www.galax.com/en/graphics-card/10-series/galax-geforcer-gtx-1080-ti-exoc-w.html
smokeandmirrors
Banned
Suggestions on a good wireless card?
moving and can't do ethernet. need something that can get even something decently approaching gigabit speeds if at all possible.
moving and can't do ethernet. need something that can get even something decently approaching gigabit speeds if at all possible.
LightofRohan
Member
Soo, I think I'm going to just pull the trigger on this Monitor:
ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
Does anyone approve? Haha, just gotta do it!
ASUS PB277Q 27" WQHD 2560x1440 75Hz 1ms
Does anyone approve? Haha, just gotta do it!
RumblingRosco
Member
Hey, so I used Macrium Reflect and it copied everything over beautifully using the disk imaging option. However, I just realized that it only allocated as much space on my new 1 TB SSD as I had available on my old 500 GB HDD (~500 GB). The remaining ~500 GB of my SSD is now not showing up.
I see it is simply not allocated in Disk Management. Is there a way I can easily re-allocate it to the current 500 GB partition so that they're combined without losing everything I already cloned over? Or a way to re-clone my old disk image, but have it make the entire 1 TB of space allocated? I don't mind re-doing the process, but just want all 1 TB on one partition with my old data also cloned into that 1 TB of space.
EDIT: Away from my PC right now, but it looks like I can go to Disk Management and right-click the existing partition and click "Extend Volume" to basically absorb the currently unallocated 500 GB portion of my 1 TB drive, or so Google tells me. I'll try this later.
Super excitedjust placed the order! My very first custom PC. Went with a white aesthetic, even down to the PSU.
As an aside, I had an absolute nightmare trying to order this from Amazon. They locked my account, erased my order transaction history, and removed all my digital content (e.g. Mr. Robot Season 2 on my Amazon account). After chats and emails they now want me to fax over information I've already provided several timesI don't have a fax machineand I said screw it, I'm done. Placed the order through Newegg and got ZERO problems. I even got Destiny 2 for free and $20 off the RAM.
I'll Google self-help guides on how to go about building a PC. Anyone aware of any particularly helpful starter guides or tutorials? Perhaps someone is aware of guides that will be especially helpful with the case/parts I ordered?
Thanks for your help through this ride! Can't wait.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($323.28 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-Z270X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($181.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($157.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($327.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Aorus Waterforce Xtreme Edition Video Card ($824.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx White 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor ($644.99 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Logitech - G Pro Wired Gaming Keyboard ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech - G703 (White) Wireless Optical Mouse ($99.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $3051.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-22 18:01 EDT-0400
What I did was YT my parts on how to put it together then just YT a standard guide to put everything together. It's really not that hard, just a ton of stuff to do especially if you order parts that are annoying to put together in the first place. If I can put together a PC anybody can.
Hello,
I just built my first PC but I'm using an older graphics card. I don't really know much about anything, but I am having issues with vertical syncing when watching videos. My graphics card is an Nvidia GTX 650. I went to the Nvidia website and downloaded their GeForce Experience application. Is this what I want? This seems really game-by-game oriented.
What should I do to fix this vertical syncing problem?
I'm running Windows 7, by the way.
I just built my first PC but I'm using an older graphics card. I don't really know much about anything, but I am having issues with vertical syncing when watching videos. My graphics card is an Nvidia GTX 650. I went to the Nvidia website and downloaded their GeForce Experience application. Is this what I want? This seems really game-by-game oriented.
What should I do to fix this vertical syncing problem?
I'm running Windows 7, by the way.