longdi
Banned
Dun bother with it really.
Yes 90dC when gaming is rather high. Normally you should not go beyond 70~75dC on a 30dC ambient
I will just tweak the bios settings, make sure you are not using fixed voltage, or too high a LLC.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
Dun bother with it really.
Yes 90dC when gaming is rather high. Normally you should not go beyond 70~75dC on a 30dC ambient
I will just tweak the bios settings, make sure you are not using fixed voltage, or too high a LLC.
AyaisMUsikWhore
Member
So finally after 10 hours, I was finally able to complete my build but it didn't come with some boo boos that I'm still worried about. I had to take off the cooler and reapply paste but I made the mistake of taking out the CPU and went putting it back in, it dropped awkwardly inside. So I tried to take it up with both of my nails and what end up happening was I smudged the bottom with my fingerprint and a tiny bit of the thermal paste that was on my hand also showed up on it. Is there any tips on how I can clean this or do I have to by a new CPU now 
I think you're probably right. Removed my motherboard's OC and I'm at max 60 C under load. I'll look up some guides since I'm not a high end user.
edit: Dumb question but how do I adjust with offset voltage?
I mean, I'm literally never going to do this again so I don't really need the tool. I'm more than comfortable paying a small premium to have a professional take care of it for me. I built the PC and even took apart my 1070 for the thermal pad upgrades and I'd rather not have the hassle.
So finally after 10 hours, I was finally able to complete my build but it didn't come with some boo boos that I'm still worried about. I had to take off the cooler and reapply paste but I made the mistake of taking out the CPU and went putting it back in, it dropped awkwardly inside. So I tried to take it up with both of my nails and what end up happening was I smudged the bottom with my fingerprint and a tiny bit of the thermal paste that was on my hand also showed up on it. Is there any tips on how I can clean this or do I have to by a new CPU now
Fingerprint on the bottom of the Intel CPU should be no big deal as long as we're not talking physical damage, you can just use a Q-tip with 90% isopropyl alcohol to wipe it a bit gently and let it dry. But thermal paste on the bottom side is no good. If that stuff ends up on the motherboard pins where the CPU rests, that's gonna mess up the motherboard I think. Clean asap. If any thermal paste ended up on the motherboard where the CPU goes, you might be fucked if it's conductive thermal paste.
AyaisMUsikWhore
Member
Oh crap. I'll pull it apart tomorrow then. And see if I can definitely fix it. Thanks so much!
So I'm in the process of planning for my next PC build. I have selected these parts from the Enthusiast - Nice thing build:
i7 - 7700k
ASUS Strix Z270 (mATX)
2x8Gb DDR4 3600Mhz
Corsair RM650x
Phanteks Enthoo Evolve (mATX or ATX I'm still deciding, the tempered glass looks really nice ...)
GTX 1080Ti (Probably at the end of the year as my friend will sell me his one for cheap, I will use my 970 for now)
I have not settled on coolers. Is there a big different between the Noctua NH-U12s and the NH-15S? If I go with the mATX build will the NH-15S even fit? Can anyone advice me on the coolers selection, what are my options that will allow me to do decent OC with relatively quiet fan noise? I am open to water cooling as well but from what I read in the other 7700k heat problem threat, a well setup air cooler is superior to water cooler? I live in Singapore so the ambient temperature is quite high. Thanks!
i7 - 7700k
ASUS Strix Z270 (mATX)
2x8Gb DDR4 3600Mhz
Corsair RM650x
Phanteks Enthoo Evolve (mATX or ATX I'm still deciding, the tempered glass looks really nice ...)
GTX 1080Ti (Probably at the end of the year as my friend will sell me his one for cheap, I will use my 970 for now)
I have not settled on coolers. Is there a big different between the Noctua NH-U12s and the NH-15S? If I go with the mATX build will the NH-15S even fit? Can anyone advice me on the coolers selection, what are my options that will allow me to do decent OC with relatively quiet fan noise? I am open to water cooling as well but from what I read in the other 7700k heat problem threat, a well setup air cooler is superior to water cooler? I live in Singapore so the ambient temperature is quite high. Thanks!
No problem. Also be aware that if indeed some thermal paste got into the motherboard CPU socket and you decide to clean it up, be extremely careful. The pins on the motherboard where the CPU goes are super sensitive and if bent can mess up the board.
My advice is to double check carefully that none of the thermal paste got into the motherboard CPU socket and let us know in the thread if it's the case or not. Good luck!
RandomExpletive
Member
My friend in Japan is ditching his laptop for a PC, wanted to make sur I'm not missing anything important here.
With all that in mind I think the "Great" build from the OT would fit him pretty well, though with Ryzen 5 on the horizon I wonder if thats a better fit for the cost, plus he'd get to hold onto the motherboard for an extra generation (though I may be projecting my Ryzen hype onto this...).
I also wonder how far to take the GPU if he's only looking at 1080/60 gaming, surely a 1070 would be overkill here.
Here is my woefully overkill parts list for him:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($169.00) [Placeholder for the 1400x]
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.89 @ OutletPC) [Included out of habit, probably unneeded]
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($94.79 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($114.99 @ Amazon) [Why is RAM so pricy, and why is the LED ram the cheapest?!]
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($177.89 @ OutletPC) [My baseline, leaving these up to him]
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.49 @ OutletPC) [My baseline, leaving these up to him]
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 480 8GB NITRO+ OC Video Card ($253.49 @ SuperBiiz) [I've heard good things about Sapphire but wonder if a different vendor has a better value?]
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C with Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz) [My baseline, leaving these up to him]
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($77.88 @ OutletPC) [again probably overkill, I've still got a 80+ bronze from my first build]
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($149.99 @ Newegg) [My baseline, leaving these up to him]
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($149.99 @ Newegg) [My baseline, leaving these up to him]
Keyboard: ??? [Leaving these up to him]
Mouse: ??? [Leaving these up to him]
Total: $1351.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-09 16:17 EDT-0400
- Budget: $1500 on parts (including monitors, accessories), he'll pay the extra shipping (but he lives in Japan so that might be a lot)
- Main Use: Gaming - 5
- Monitor Resolution: 1080p, dual monitor, buying the monitors
- List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: He wants to start playing The Witcher 3 & Nier Automata @ 1080p, high settings, near/locked 60
- Looking to reuse any parts?: No, moving up from a laptop (with a dying HDD)
- When will you build?: The sooner the better
- Will you be overclocking?: No, apparently his apartment has lackluster AC and it gets hot during the summer
With all that in mind I think the "Great" build from the OT would fit him pretty well, though with Ryzen 5 on the horizon I wonder if thats a better fit for the cost, plus he'd get to hold onto the motherboard for an extra generation (though I may be projecting my Ryzen hype onto this...).
I also wonder how far to take the GPU if he's only looking at 1080/60 gaming, surely a 1070 would be overkill here.
Here is my woefully overkill parts list for him:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($169.00) [Placeholder for the 1400x]
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.89 @ OutletPC) [Included out of habit, probably unneeded]
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($94.79 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($114.99 @ Amazon) [Why is RAM so pricy, and why is the LED ram the cheapest?!]
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($177.89 @ OutletPC) [My baseline, leaving these up to him]
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.49 @ OutletPC) [My baseline, leaving these up to him]
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 480 8GB NITRO+ OC Video Card ($253.49 @ SuperBiiz) [I've heard good things about Sapphire but wonder if a different vendor has a better value?]
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C with Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz) [My baseline, leaving these up to him]
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($77.88 @ OutletPC) [again probably overkill, I've still got a 80+ bronze from my first build]
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($149.99 @ Newegg) [My baseline, leaving these up to him]
Monitor: Acer H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($149.99 @ Newegg) [My baseline, leaving these up to him]
Keyboard: ??? [Leaving these up to him]
Mouse: ??? [Leaving these up to him]
Total: $1351.39
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-09 16:17 EDT-0400
Well I was soooo proud of myself, after having a bunk power supply I got my Ryzen PC all put together and everything installed.
However now I am in a bad spot where when I go to do something such as play a game I get about 30 seconds in and it crashes the whole PC.
3dMark does not run either, it goes to gathering system information and then just drops out.
Sigh, I made sure it booted out of the box, but don't have any way of knowing if it is the video card, the board or what. Google is failing me so can someone point me in the right direction? I will forever be in their debit.
However now I am in a bad spot where when I go to do something such as play a game I get about 30 seconds in and it crashes the whole PC.
3dMark does not run either, it goes to gathering system information and then just drops out.
Sigh, I made sure it booted out of the box, but don't have any way of knowing if it is the video card, the board or what. Google is failing me so can someone point me in the right direction? I will forever be in their debit.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Might mean something isn't seated right. RAM is easiest to check, so reseat that first.
Poetic.Injustice
Member
I've got white horizontal lines running across my screen. My GPU seems to be at an end.
Is there any possible fix for the GPU?
Is there any possible fix for the GPU?
Just built a system with a Phanteks Cryorig R1 Ultiamte, GTX 1080 and Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX. Lovely build. Its also running 7700k @ 4.9Ghz.
I don't know much Ryzen motherboards. Your current PSU should be fine, but you'll have to upgrade to DDR4. Also recently Microsoft announced that they wouldn't officially support Windows 7 on Ryzen.
Hope this helps.
What are you installing from optical media?
lostsupper
Banned
You don't need a disc drive for any of that.
lostsupper
Banned
I just finished a mATX build with the Asus z270 and a Noctua NH-D15S. Having done so, I'd recommend the NH-U14S. The performance difference is extremely slim and it will make building and maintaining much easier.
j0hnny_385
Member
Why didn't you download everything on a USB drive before the new build?
Ethernet drivers
Chipset drivers
Audio
GeForce
etc.
It's the standard procedure...
I haven't installed anything off of CD/DVDs you get with MBO/GPU because the drivers on there are always old.
Pagusas
Elden Member
Why?? I havnt put an optical drive in a build sense 2013. Seriously it's a wasted component now.
That's an awfully personal preference. I use mine all the time to rip movies or music.
Hey guys.
I'm getting a little irritated at the noise of my computer. I have noctua fans, an asus strix 1080, and a noctua D15 on top of a 6700k.
From what I can tell, my noise is not being highly contributed due to the cpu or gpu fans. I open the case and most of the time the cpu fans aren't even running (and when they do they are pretty quiet.)
I think my PSU is the highest contributer to the noise. I currently have
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004P1IWZU/?tag=neogaf0e-20
While it's rated well overall, there are a few reviews that talk about bad units.
What would be the suggestion for a very quiet 1000w top quality psu? I don't have a budget, i could get whatever.
I'm getting a little irritated at the noise of my computer. I have noctua fans, an asus strix 1080, and a noctua D15 on top of a 6700k.
From what I can tell, my noise is not being highly contributed due to the cpu or gpu fans. I open the case and most of the time the cpu fans aren't even running (and when they do they are pretty quiet.)
I think my PSU is the highest contributer to the noise. I currently have
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004P1IWZU/?tag=neogaf0e-20
While it's rated well overall, there are a few reviews that talk about bad units.
What would be the suggestion for a very quiet 1000w top quality psu? I don't have a budget, i could get whatever.
JonnyDBrit
Member
By Black Friday? There'll be 560s/570s on the market, so you might want to keep an eye out on those.
I've had really good luck with the high end Seasonic units.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Congrats, be sure to post a pic of the finished product!
Seasonic is also my fav psu manufacturer on the market today.
For a 6700k and single GTX 1080, this should be plenty: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ETEFTK/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I use the 750 watt version myself and it's been running great for years.
If you just want to splurge then you could get this: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...m_re=seasonic_titanium-_-17-151-160-_-Product
Just use any machine to get the network driver? Motherboard cd will have old outdated drivers. My usual advice is to throw it in the box and pretend it's not there.
Also get some rig pics uploaded
Well I love my build except for I need to RMA my Graphics card I think, as anytime it goes to do anything 3D like basic games or Eyefinity (my killer app) everything crashes. I went to microcenter and debated buying another card to see for sure... but I can't rationally have two graphics cards. I got the 480 8 gig that goes for 250 most places.. what would happen if I pared that with a 460?
I don't go over 1080, and outside of having four monitors have no need for it. Outside of that my boot time seems to defy physics, I wonder how much of that is the overall upgrade or that I put an M2 in it. But for a bit it seems like work will be the only thing that puts it through it's paces.
I don't go over 1080, and outside of having four monitors have no need for it. Outside of that my boot time seems to defy physics, I wonder how much of that is the overall upgrade or that I put an M2 in it. But for a bit it seems like work will be the only thing that puts it through it's paces.
So I bought ram before I got anything else, and the height on these G.Skill TridentZ is 44m, the Noctua NH-D15 only allows 32mm for ram clearance, but you can make space by moving the fan upwards.
I've seen te NH-D15 get great reviews everywhere, so I suppose this is still the among the best options?
Did not really take this into consideration when I bought the ram unfortunately.
I've seen te NH-D15 get great reviews everywhere, so I suppose this is still the among the best options?
Did not really take this into consideration when I bought the ram unfortunately.
opticalmace
Member
You should check how much clearance you'll have before the fan will hit the side panel of the case. I shift my D15's fan up a tiny bit and still have plenty of room, but YMMV.
Phanteks is releasing a tempered glass version of the mATX Evolv in the next month or so
The NH-D15 S sounds like it would be perfect for you. It only has a single fan in the middle so the clearance for RAM is pretty huge. Very happy with the acoustics and performance.
I would maybe send it back period for a refund (optical drive). They rarely have any use nowadays and the drivers you were referencing are always outdated anyway.
Congrats on the completed build!
CadetMahoney
Member
I smiled.
Has anyone used the Rockit cool to delid their processor? If so, how safe did it seem? do you recommend it? I just built a new rig with a 7700k and yesterday I was hitting temps as high as 72 while playing Mass Effect (I will admit that the room itself was pretty hot, probably about 74* F). I'm using an H100 liquid cooler so I'm not sure why the temps are so high. Thinking I might delid this thing.
RamaTheVoice
Member
Build as in put together or build as in choose the components? The second we can do, the first may be harder.
Where do you live? In my neck of the woods there's no shortage of online retailers that'll let you buy your parts from them (and check for compatibility) and then build the PC for a small fee.
TheOnlyMook
Member
Still rocking a 2500K from 2011 and it's getting more and more obvious that my CPU is becoming a glaring bottleneck in my system. Looking to upgrade sometime this year and would like some advice. Should I go with Kaby Lake? Anything I should be aware of on the horizon?
Also as far as what I'll need to upgrade: New CPU = new Mobo + RAM, correct? Will I need a new Windows license? I've been seeing conflicting answers.
Any help is much appreciated
Also as far as what I'll need to upgrade: New CPU = new Mobo + RAM, correct? Will I need a new Windows license? I've been seeing conflicting answers.
Any help is much appreciated
I'd say Kaby Lake is the way to go. You won't save much by going with Sky lake. As for the parts you mentioned, that is correct. Since you're moving to a new socket you need to replace the mobo along with the RAM.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
"Coffee Lake" chips later this year. ~15% performance increase (over Kaby Lake) is the number thrown around, if you want to wait.
Otherwise I'd just go for a 7700k. And yes, new mobo and RAM.
Only need new Windows license if your current license came with a prebuilt PC. If you bought it separately you can uninstall the key via cmd, then just activate on the new.
SALE ALERT: ASUS 1080 Strix is currently on sale and ends up $504.99 after additional $30 rebate card (normally $564.99). Free shipping. Comes with Ghost Recon Wildlands or For Honor. 2 days left. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod..._mmc=EMC-GD041017-_-index-_-Item-_-14-126-116
Thanks. The NH-D15S looks very nice. As long as it doesnt take too much of a hit from only having a single fan, that should work fine.
Last question, I really want to consider Ryzen for my build but I just don't think I do the productivity kind of work to really benefit from it. I'd game in 1440p/4k and I will browse the net at the same time. (I like gaming in bordered window, doing multiple things at the same time).
I'd go for the Ryzen here if the difference is only a few frames, I don't mind that too much. But then I saw someone mention if I'd want to game in 144hz, the i7 7700k is better by default. Is this true? This final choice on what to go for is probably going to be the toughest one.
ndawgdrake
Member
I just went from a 2500k to a 3770k as a stopgap. Wanted my next full platform upgrade to be a hex core. If you're only aiming for 60fps, the 3770k is a very viable option without having to change out the Mobo and ram.
TheOnlyMook
Member
This isn't an awful option if I could find a good deal used, but I think I might rather just go with a newer chip and replace the mobo and RAM all in one go rather than a half-step upgrade.
Thanks for the answers above as well. Good to know I most likely won't need another Windows license.
ColdDeckEd
Member
Like lostsupper has said it's really fool proof. It's alittle scary but just keep going till you hear the pop and you're done. It's actually more difficult to put the clu on than delidding using a tool. I wouldn't delid any other way.
I suggest checking if the chip is a good overclocker first before delidding though.
Thanks for the response. After some thought I think I'm just going to try applying a new thermal paste. I had an old coollaboratory Liquid pro sitting around from an old build. I didn't even do a good job of applying it. I just used a small dot on the center of the cpu and placed the cooler on top of it. That method usually works well but I forgot that with the Liquid pro it's recommended that you spread it across the top of the IHS evenly. I ordered some Arctic MX-4. Hopefully that will do the trick.
I wouldn't expect much from this since the real issue with these CPUs is below the heatspreader.