Celcius
°Temp. member
What cpu and cooler do you have?
When's the last time you opened up the PC and cleaned dust out of the heatsink?
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
What cpu and cooler do you have?
When's the last time you opened up the PC and cleaned dust out of the heatsink?
Im about to begin assembling 2 pcs (have the parts) and was going to run ethernet to where they will be...upon closer inspection, tthis cable run is way harder than i thought (AC ducts in way).
So question, powerline adaptors with 2 ports, do they act like an internet switch? Can i run 2 devices at the same time on a 2 port powerline? If not can an internet switch be used with a powerline adaptor?
(I may just pay a local handy man we know to just run the damn cable still...)
So question, powerline adaptors with 2 ports, do they act like an internet switch? Can i run 2 devices at the same time on a 2 port powerline? If not can an internet switch be used with a powerline adaptor?
(I may just pay a local handy man we know to just run the damn cable still...)
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
3770k with stock cooler. I've recently completely disassembled my rig multiple times for a big casemod/upgrade I performed. I ran a whole can of through it at the time. Its just like 4 years old now and its 90f here in CA and the VR room is upstairs in a room that gets very hot because of the number of windows. It might even be hotter in that room than it is outside? There are windows on everywall. Blinds of course, but heat still gets in and bakes the room like an oven. Not ideal for a constricted SFF case. :\
I've been going back and forth on which cooler to get for a while but didn't feel a sense of urgency.
Blech. Hopefully once the sun goes down I can get back in there.
I wanna get a portable A/C unit and seal the whole thing in the closet.
You can download a program from Microsoft, which will put the W10 install files onto a USB thumb drive. Then you boot to that drive and install windows.
Hopefully you have your windows key somewhere.word on the street is that W10 installations are still accepting keys from older versions of windows.
For recovering the dead drive, connect it with a Sata to USB connector ir install it into a desktop tower. If you can't access the drive and easily drag/drop files you want to keep due to corruption or something: I like to use Recuva (associated with the Crapcleaner company) to recover deleted files or try to get stuff from corrupt/damaged partitions. Do a deepscan and tell it to put the recovered files on a different drive. A deepscan will take a long time.
Also, make sure power saving features are turned on in your bios and that windows power mode is set to "balanced" when you aren't gaming, so that it can use the power saving/heat saving features.
So I'm going to pull the trigger very soon.
This is what my final PC will look like.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($300.00)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110 94.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($0.00)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS IX CODE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($278.03 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($139.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB HYBRID Video Card ($0.00)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($137.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1173 <- Edited by me to reflect my real final price
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-01 23:31 EDT-0400
The only thing I need clarification on is this:
What exactly does this mean? How does this affect me since I will be using an M.2 SSD for the OS and a regular SSD? Will my SSD run slower?
According to the user manual, "When the M.2_1(Socket 3) is operating in SATA mode, SATA port 1 (SATA6G_1) will be disabled."
If you don't use the SATA6G_1 slot, the SSD will run just fine.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Hmm, open hardware monitor monitor and speedfan are reporting different cpu temperatures..
Thats sorta frustrating.
Thats sorta frustrating.
Try HWinfo.
Felix Lighter
Member
Ever since I installed my 1080ti, I've been getting occasional BSODs referencing the Nvidia driver and it happens only when running Chrome, specifically when changing tabs or switching displays while chrome is open and a video is playing. It has never occured while playing any games and I have played quite a few for long durations. I tried uninstalling and reinstalling the driver, that didn't fix it. I tried disabling hardware acceleration in chrome, which seemed to work until just now when it happened again. I just uninstalled chrome and reinstalled to see if maybe that helps.
Any other suggestions?
Any other suggestions?
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Well you're not going to be running the M.2 in SATA mode so it doesn't matter. You're going to be running in PCI-E mode.
Best of luck on the build.
Weird. Did you update Chrome?
Like Drak said maybe older nVidia driver or beta driver.
Felix Lighter
Member
It's been happening with the last 2 driver releases, which is all I've used with this card. I'm not sure which release is the first official release that supports the 1080ti, I'm not sure I can really drop back too far. I haven't seen any widespread issue during me searches.
I would hate HATE to have to return the card because it runs very cool and boosts very well and has been flawless during gaming, with no additional overclock or voltage. Only chrome triggers the BSODs and the card is running at low 2D clock speeds. Super frustrating.
I would hate HATE to have to return the card because it runs very cool and boosts very well and has been flawless during gaming, with no additional overclock or voltage. Only chrome triggers the BSODs and the card is running at low 2D clock speeds. Super frustrating.
Hmmm, I wasn't really sure if it was going to be SATA or PCI-E. Thanks then!
Also I hear you about the deliding (did I spell that right?) I looked up what that was. Not sure how I'd feel about doing that for the first time on a 7700k. Maybe, I'll think about it. If only I had some practice I'd do it.
And regarding my case, I love my case. It's very wide and it hides cables very nicely. Not that I'm all that good at cable management anyway. There's a big glass panel on the left side so it's possible to show off the hardware.
I run a much older card and have similar issues, plus a few more. BSOD, plus the screen hanging for 5 seconds randomly about twice an hour. I used DDU in safe mode on a temp admin account, then manually applied the nvidia drivers without installing Gforce Experience. The hangs are gone and i only get BSOD while playing Halo 5 Forge (without the Halo App). Not sure if it will help but it worked for me.
Sectorseven
Member
Are there any computer desks with keyboard trays that are wide enough for a mouse as well, or is there a reason almost every desk has the mouse higher up on the desk itself?
Chezzymann
Member
Built my first pc! Its for rendering stuff in maya and some light gaming on the side. The ryzen 7 processor is fantastic and beats any comparable pricetag i7 out there for rendering cause of its 8 cores and 16 threads
Specs:
Ryzen 7 1700
16 GB DDR4 3000 ram
250GB SSD
GeForce 750ti (hand me down from my brother, not important for what Im doing. Might upgrade in the future when I have the money)
Specs:
Ryzen 7 1700
16 GB DDR4 3000 ram
250GB SSD
GeForce 750ti (hand me down from my brother, not important for what Im doing. Might upgrade in the future when I have the money)
How do you know if it is running SATA vs. PCI-E mode? I was in a similar boat when purchasing came around.
Hopefully this is an appropriate question for this thread, apologies if it is not.
I have an older Lattitude laptop with an i7 in it, and I was wondering if it would be possible/worth it to put it in my girlfriend's desktop PC.
The PC is very small and pretty low end, but has 8GBs of ram and an i3 right now. Is this something that is even possible? Are there any guides on how to do it?
Otherwise, would it be likely that I can just buy an i5-i7 for it and plop it in (if the laptop one is not compatible)?
Thanks in advance for any guidance, PC hardware is my geek blindspot so I can use all the help I can get.
I have an older Lattitude laptop with an i7 in it, and I was wondering if it would be possible/worth it to put it in my girlfriend's desktop PC.
The PC is very small and pretty low end, but has 8GBs of ram and an i3 right now. Is this something that is even possible? Are there any guides on how to do it?
Otherwise, would it be likely that I can just buy an i5-i7 for it and plop it in (if the laptop one is not compatible)?
Thanks in advance for any guidance, PC hardware is my geek blindspot so I can use all the help I can get.
BolognaOni
Member
Not 100% sure, but usually the sockets mobile processor plug into are different, so they would likely not be compatible.
What sort of desktop PC is it, and what do you want to do with it? If it's an older model at all, upgrading processors is usually not worth it, as finding compatible parts gets difficult (unless you get something used).
However, if you just want to do some basic gaming, it may work fine if you drop a decent video card in there.
OK, I need one last bit of "you can do this" as I embark on building twin PCs for my kids (ones white and blue, ones black and purple, thats the only difference.).
Im either sitting on the parts, or they are showing up by tomorrow (minus the GPU - Im waiting to see if the rx560 or the 1050ti makes most sense - I have 2 freesync monitors, so Im hoping the 560 will be able to compete, but its a couple weeks away)
To install W10 on these driveless computers, I will download the USB tool from here:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
This will go onto a blank 32gb flash drive. Once I am done assembling the components, I will go into BIOS, and change the boot order to USB first. Restart with USB in, and Viola!? it will begin the windows installation process. (It says I need a license, you can do that after the fact correct?)
Yes?
Then, I will need to use my laptop to go to the ASROCK website to grab the LAN driver, and then unpack it onto the desktop of the new PC - run the exe (or whatever it is), and then I'll have a LAN connection (? yes?)
From there, I can grab the remaining drivers and install them.
Boom, I just made a PC right?
Im either sitting on the parts, or they are showing up by tomorrow (minus the GPU - Im waiting to see if the rx560 or the 1050ti makes most sense - I have 2 freesync monitors, so Im hoping the 560 will be able to compete, but its a couple weeks away)
To install W10 on these driveless computers, I will download the USB tool from here:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
This will go onto a blank 32gb flash drive. Once I am done assembling the components, I will go into BIOS, and change the boot order to USB first. Restart with USB in, and Viola!? it will begin the windows installation process. (It says I need a license, you can do that after the fact correct?)
Yes?
Then, I will need to use my laptop to go to the ASROCK website to grab the LAN driver, and then unpack it onto the desktop of the new PC - run the exe (or whatever it is), and then I'll have a LAN connection (? yes?)
From there, I can grab the remaining drivers and install them.
Boom, I just made a PC right?
BolognaOni
Member
I take it you haven't been able to OC your 5820k much? I was able to get 4.5GHz on mine, but it's got a NH D-15 on it... At stock clocks the 1700 is probably quite a bit better (and definitely much less power).
Something else you might want to consider... I normally don't think that much of them but in your case a single-fan AIO cooler might actually help a fair amount. It's really helpful to be able to directly exhaust heat in these small cases, instead of depending on the case fans to get it out, when the CPU cooler is potentially fighting them and blowing stuff ever which way. Personally I'd be more inclined to try that before swapping power supplies (and maybe even before swapping CPUs). Perhaps someone else on here has some experience with small radiators in tight cases?
TC McQueen
Member
You might not need to get the specific driver to get an internet connection, since Windows might have a generic driver that works, but that specific driver would probably make it perform better.
Aside from that, that's how it works.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
BIOS
AMD and Intel's TDP ratings are not directly comparable. You wont save power/heat by going to an 8 core Ryzen.
Your case actually has good ventilation. 60C or more for idle means something is probably wrong.
On that case, around the CPU, you have rear ventilation and two fan vents on the right side (right side, from front of case).
I would do two things:
Make those two fan ports exhaust. If you don't have some fans there, get some and make them exhaust.
Remove your CPU heatsink. Clean it and your CPU with paper towels and alcohol.
Reinstall it with some quality thermal compound. I suspect the current installation may not have good coverage.
Be careful to use a good application method for the thermal compound. It can be tricky with exposed heat pipes on the base. I like to use an applicator tool or a razor blade, to fill in the grooves around the pipes, first. Then follow through with typical methods, such as two half rice grain sized dollops, etc.
My favorite is Gelid GC Xtreme. If you can't get that, I recommend Noctua's thermal compound or Arctic Silver Ceramique.
Gelid is tops, but all three give competitive thermal potential and will last a couple of years before drying out.
Dont suffocate your case on a shelf. It will just drown in its own hot air. Try to set it on top of a desk or stand.
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
Looks stunning. What case is that?
I'm looking to build a second rig with Ryzen expressely for the purpose of rendering like you and I'll try a white case this time.
Celcius
°Temp. member
Congrats, it looks great!
So it looks like I'll be doing a system build this weekend. If I buy a Windows 10 Home key direct from MS or from Amazon, will that allow me to use that product key with the installation media created with the Windows 10 USB image making tool thing here? https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
I've done this once before but it was with an education key, and I'm not clear on if I need to have an O/S in place before I can use the retail key to install.
I've done this once before but it was with an education key, and I'm not clear on if I need to have an O/S in place before I can use the retail key to install.
Thanks. Just needed a final spoonful of confidence.
So my GF wants a new gaming PC. She primarily plays MMOs and Overwatch and was interested in Ryzen.
I am thinking since she's not into the really, super graphics heavy games like me, AMD is fine?
So im thinking this to begin:
Ryzen 5 1600
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113435&ignorebbr=1
MSI b350 tomahawk
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144018&ignorebbr=1
16 gigs DDr4 memory and a 1070. that should work for what she is into right?
I am thinking since she's not into the really, super graphics heavy games like me, AMD is fine?
So im thinking this to begin:
Ryzen 5 1600
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113435&ignorebbr=1
MSI b350 tomahawk
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144018&ignorebbr=1
16 gigs DDr4 memory and a 1070. that should work for what she is into right?
hououinkyouma00
Member
I'm an idiot I read that as Mobas not MMOs
sometimes MMOs can be pretty intense due to all the people on screen and effects.
I'm building my gf a computer. She does some gaming and editing/productivity stuff. So if overclocked Ryzen 1700 can get close to a stock 7700k when using high speed RAM, and games are going to become more multi-threaded over time, it seems like Ryzen might be the better choice since she doesn't need framerates above 60hz and she's expecting not to upgrade for many years. Thoughts?
I want to do really light gaming on it, so hopefully things work out. Bummer that it probably wont be compatible, but I guess there is no harm in trying it since I never use it now anyway.
The PC isn't that old as far as I know. It is this model
HP Slimline Desktop - 260-p020t
http://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-slimline-desktop---260-p020t-cto?jumpid=cs_con_dt_np&prodsku=V9A76AA%23ABA&utm_medium=cs&utm_source=ga&utm_campaign=PSG%20Consumer%20PCs&utm_content=sp&adid=51202004387&addisttype=gpla&CAWELAID=120281700000077232&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=10542272627&CATCI=pla-284129777006&CATARGETID=120281700000149595&cadevice=c
But it has an i3 in it.
Could I get a new video card for this thing?
Thanks!
If she's playing at 1080p, a 1070 for MMOs is overkill. An RX 580 would be perfectly fine here.
According to this, you are limited to low voltage CPUs, which in itself is not much of a problem. What is more of a problem is that the case (and PSU) are rather small/weak for a really useful graphics card.
In fact, going by what I can gleam from found pictures of the back of the case in the manual it offers you one half size expansion slot. The fastest GPU for that format would probably be a Geforce 730 or Radeon 240, both of which might actually be slower than the CPU integrated graphics unit.
The CPU swap Laptop to Desktop is very unlikely to work:
a) As long as the Laptop does not use a desktop CPU but a mobile CPU they have a different amount of pins and thus are physically incompatible.
b) The laptop CPU is very likely to be soldered onto the mainboard.
c) It would have to be a 6th or 7th generation CPU (designated by the iX-6XXX in the model number).
d) The BIOS of the mainboard would actually need to support it. And at least according to the previously linked specifications it doesn't do so.
So in short: If you want to game in some kind of quality on it you are looking at a somewhat larger project on which you would not only replace the CPU, but also the case and the PSU in addition to buying a GPU.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($337.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($178.82 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($134.49 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($134.49 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($245.98 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.66 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card ($779.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($86.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2061.06
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-03 02:50 EDT-0400
Welp. This is what I have picked out so far. I can't decide on which 1080ti to aim for but I usually buy EVGA GPUs so I put that in there for now. I'm sure this can be tweaked but any suggestions are welcome. I mainly used this as a way to set the budget and what I will be looking out for while I save.
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($337.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($178.82 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($134.49 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($134.49 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($245.98 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.66 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card ($779.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($86.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2061.06
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-03 02:50 EDT-0400
Welp. This is what I have picked out so far. I can't decide on which 1080ti to aim for but I usually buy EVGA GPUs so I put that in there for now. I'm sure this can be tweaked but any suggestions are welcome. I mainly used this as a way to set the budget and what I will be looking out for while I save.
A couple of suggestions:
- Do you really need 32GB of RAM? 16GB is more than enough for anything except doing stuff like 3D modelling or video rendering, and if that was your primary use you'd be going Ryzen.
- I'd change the Hyper 212 for a Cryorig H7. It's cooler, quieter, easier to install and a similar price.
- You don't have a power supply, do you already have one that isn't costed in?
- You have a good point. While I would like to start some light streaming/encoding, its primary use is gaming. I can always add more RAM later.
- Took a look at this and liked what I saw. Added.
- I have a nice power supply I would like to use.
Updated:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($337.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($178.82 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($134.49 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($245.98 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.66 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card ($779.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($86.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1936.58
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-03 03:13 EDT-0400
Coulomb_Barrier
Member
Yeah a Ryzen 1600 is fast and the best bang-for-buck CPU out there at the higher end so I would get one of those. Total platform cost is lower versus Intel and Ryzen's AM4 motherboards now will take at least two more future gens of Ryzen CPUs so it makes the most sense.
Gonna be looking into purchasing a new case for my PC, feeling like a change.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what to get?
Im thinking mid-tower sized. I don't like anything crazy/flashy, I don't want anything super understated if that makes any sense... mainly nice and sleek stuff
I do however really like those limited edition NZXT Hyper Beast cases but I can't find any for sale anywhere...
Any suggestions guys?
CPU: i7 4790k
GPU: GTX 980ti
RAM: 16GB DDR3
MOBO: Gigabyte UD3
PSU: EVGA SuperNova P2 750w
Does anyone have any suggestions on what to get?
Im thinking mid-tower sized. I don't like anything crazy/flashy, I don't want anything super understated if that makes any sense... mainly nice and sleek stuff
I do however really like those limited edition NZXT Hyper Beast cases but I can't find any for sale anywhere...
Any suggestions guys?
CPU: i7 4790k
GPU: GTX 980ti
RAM: 16GB DDR3
MOBO: Gigabyte UD3
PSU: EVGA SuperNova P2 750w
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
what do you think about a In Win 303 ? about time In Win made some affordable cases with tempered glass.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Just to double check, but wouldn't that motherboard need BIOS from after the Kabylake launch, in order to support that line of CPUs? Since it's a Z170 board rather than Z270.
Yeah its still a 1080p monitor. Thanks ill look into the 580.
Never heard of em until now, just checked them out and they have some pretty nice stuff! Will add to the short list, thanks! Digging the white w/ tempered glass.
I think you are right after looking into it. Let me see...switched it out with the Strix which was a Z270 chipset.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($337.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($186.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($134.49 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($245.98 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.45 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card ($779.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($86.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1944.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-03 12:51 EDT-0400