Bloodember
Member
Have you tried different ones?
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
Bloodember
Member
I'm not sure what else to do, seems like you got a dud. If your not happy with it return it.
I have an Asus VE278Q and it took some time to get the setting where I like them. The reds are still not right but I'm happy with it since it is a TFT display and it will never be perfect.
It's an Asus motherboard. I left packaging feedback and if it gives me any troubles when I install it I'll point to that when making my case to Amazon. Otherwise, I'm just hoping it isn't damaged, which it doesn't appear to be.
ehead
Member
AIDA64, 3DMark, Valley Benchmark, etc. They all have free versions out there, so you can try em out.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Start playing that game you wanted to play at 1080p60 for so long
Use Fraps or Rivatuner Statistics Server, and just watch the framerate at max settings.
ISee
Member
Get one of the newest, most awesome looking games out there. Set things to reasonable ultra settings. Get a FPS counter. Stare at numbers instead of playing the game. That's what I do, at least.
GAF,
I need a recommendation for a friend: 27" 1080p IPS display, 60hz. What's good and not too expansive?
metareferential
Member
+1
Some of the most used games also have a built-in benchmark suite, like Rise of the Tomb Raider or Crysis 3 (iirc).
Hey guys. My girl has expressed interest in a new PC. Which means that it can give her my current rig in favor of a new one! So i need your help. I want to really push my 21:9 1440p monitor and prep for 4k in the future (when displays getbetter with lower prices). I also want to begin to get into a bit of streaming as well. I can set the budget at $1500-2000 for the rig. So i really want to step into the higher tier. This is for gaming/streaing/entertainment.
So woth Ryzen out, it seems to be a streaming beast. Is this a consideration? The jury seems to a bit out. Any thoughts? Or is an i7 still the best bet?
Also i live in the southwest and it gets hot as hell here. Should water cooling be considered or is it a pain or a nice luxury?
The guides in the OP are very good just has some question and any extra suggestions are welcome.
So woth Ryzen out, it seems to be a streaming beast. Is this a consideration? The jury seems to a bit out. Any thoughts? Or is an i7 still the best bet?
Also i live in the southwest and it gets hot as hell here. Should water cooling be considered or is it a pain or a nice luxury?
The guides in the OP are very good just has some question and any extra suggestions are welcome.
ShadowKingpin
Member
Water cooling and Ryzen are by far your best bets. Just make sure to nab Ryzen 7 for those 8 cores.
JonnyDBrit
Member
For streaming purposes, Ryzen is best on balance yes. The i7-7700k reigns for raw game performance, but when more cores are necessary, the R7's hold out better.
demosthenes
Member
Friend put together a new pc, Windows 10 pro. Ethernet doesn't have valid ip config. I'm omw there now, he says hes don't everything he can find. Thoughts? Is this common on new builds?
LQX
Member
In all the years I have been buying PC parts new none has shipped in the manufacturer box alone. Shipping it in the original box is something you maybe do if you selling it used and provide extra padding. I would return it on principle alone or ask for discount because of the condition it arrived in.
Would it just be easier to put together a small Ryzen based streamig pc instead if i get into it pretty seep?
If you have access to a costco membership - https://www.costco.com/Dell-SE2717HR-27"-Full-HD-Monitor.product.100337050.html . And it'z 75hz and freesync (48-75 range) to boot. It doesn't say on the page but it should be IPS. It's on sale until May 21.
I made things easier so people know.
Latest pic of setup.
Nice setup Kadey!
Do you guess that will be able to run destiny 2 at 60 FPS with ultra settings?
Ploid 3.0
Member
To add to your information gathering. This guy, a tech youtube personality, has put up what his impressions on Ryzen stuff for streaming, and other content creation stuff.
https://youtu.be/Vf_pUECRmAo?t=124
Looks impressive, still kicking myself for not knowing about Ryzen being around the corner. I would have gotten this even though I'd never get into streaming or encoding. It looks like a multitasking beast. (Edit: I would have gotten the 1700 if I could turn back time)
TC McQueen
Member
Pro tip: When overclocking a Ryzen chip on an X370 Gaming K4, DO NOT touch the CPU voltage setting in the Voltage Control section of the UEFI. Set the voltage up top, under the core clock speed, and that's it. Otherwise you get locked to 2.2GHz, no matter what voltage you put.
Also, setting the SOC voltage to 1.1 helps the RAM.
Also, setting the SOC voltage to 1.1 helps the RAM.
SolarMystic
Member
Quick questions about Freesync. What happens if I go under 48fps, does it start stuttering and tearing? I guess I can cap fps at 75 to prevent going over. Plus, are most 75hz monitors in the 48-75 range? What's the range on 144hz monitors?
I'm not an expert on this but my understanding is that you use FreeSync in conjuction with VSync. As long as your graphics card produces frames at a pace faster than the screen can display them VSync will force the card to wait on the monitor to prevent tearing as is normal. The same is true if the framerate drops below the monitor's sync range*.
The only difference is when the graphics card is not able to max out the monitor but still deliver frames within the sync range. In that case the monitor will wait for the graphics card instead of the card having to wait for the monitor. The result of this is that within the sync range you will have a much smoother experience with FreeSync than without.
*
The only difference is when the graphics card is not able to max out the monitor but still deliver frames within the sync range. In that case the monitor will wait for the graphics card instead of the card having to wait for the monitor. The result of this is that within the sync range you will have a much smoother experience with FreeSync than without.
*
Apparently if the max sync range of the monitor is at least twice the minimum sync range, AMD's drivers can use something called Low Framerate Compensation to smooth thing out even below min sync. I have no idea how that works.
His results are pretty impressive!
My local friend who runs a PC shop recommended the i7 chip still so the debate rages on. It looks like that either way is a good choice.
The ideal way, as the previous poster says, is to use this in conjunction with vsync. Vsync will cap your FPS to 75hz. At the same time you have freesync on, and that will kick in anytime your fps drops below 75hz. Between 75hz and your minimum freesync range (in this case 48), you will experience no screen tearing and freesync will be active. Anytime your FPS dips below 48 for more then just a few frames, you might experience some partial tearing.
Ideally the freesync range should be 30-75hz for AMD's LFC technology, but at this price point, you have to sacrifice something. AMD has some made some promises going forward to what they are calling freesync 2. They are saying double the monitors this year will have freesync and all of the freesync 2 ones will have a big enough range for LFC. Hopefully this means we will be seeing some bigger freesync ranges on the budget monitors.
As far as ranges go, this website has the list for all the ranges on all the monitors that officially support freesync (People actually found a way to enable freesync on non-freesync monitors, see here and here). 48-75 and 40-75 are the two most common ranges for 75hz monitors. For 144hz monitors, the most common ones are 30-144, 40-144, 48-144 .
Now that program that can actually make non-freesync monitors use freesync can also be used to "overclock" the freesync ranges of monitors. I haven't tested it myself and it will obviously vary monitor to monitor but I've heard people being able to push their ranges by +- 10 in some cases while in other cases the whole range moves (i.e. 48-75 -> 30-60).
SolarMystic
Member
So I installed a Ryzen 1700x with Asia b350 plus in an NZXT S340 elite. Everything works well and BIOS comes up. I go to load Windows 7 from a USB and once in the install process I can't move the keyboard and mouse. I'm pretty sure it's a USB thing but I can't find any fixes in the bios. Any ideas? I do not have a ps2 adapter at the moment..
lordfuzzybutt
Member
It might be worth it to go with even faster RAM as Ryzen's CCX design benefits greatly from it, even if you can't run it right now. AMD is supposed to release new microcode update during May which may help with better RAM compatibility.
Yeah you have to use one of the workarounds listed here because ryzen doesn't officially support windows 7.
ISee
Member
Burgess_101
Member
So I have a bit of a dilemma and I'm not sure how to go about it.
I currently have a 5820k in a HTPC case (Silverstone GD05 I think it is) and whilst it all works and keeps to decent temperatures all things considered it's just a bit too loud and hot for my liking. The 5820k is a 140w TDP CPU so maybe not the best choice for my build.
I can sell my motherboard and CPU for around £380 possibly a bit more.
I was looking at either the ryzen 1600 or the 1700. Now I was also looking at getting an SFX fully modular PSU because my atx sized semi modular wires get in the way big time of the exhaust fan. If I wanted to do that I couldn't afford the 1700 so I'd have to stick with the 1600.
I majority play games on my pc but I have a bit of an operation going with ripping blu rays and transcoding them for my Plex server. Will the 1700 really make a £100 difference to transcoding and gaming? For note I am not adverse to overclocking.
To summarise my options are such:
£400 budget
1700 £300, motherboard £80-90 - £390ish
1600 £200, motherboard £80-90, corsair 600w SFX PSU £90 - £380ish
Thoughts? I'm personally leaning towards the latter with the thought I can always upgrade the CPU in future.
I currently have a 5820k in a HTPC case (Silverstone GD05 I think it is) and whilst it all works and keeps to decent temperatures all things considered it's just a bit too loud and hot for my liking. The 5820k is a 140w TDP CPU so maybe not the best choice for my build.
I can sell my motherboard and CPU for around £380 possibly a bit more.
I was looking at either the ryzen 1600 or the 1700. Now I was also looking at getting an SFX fully modular PSU because my atx sized semi modular wires get in the way big time of the exhaust fan. If I wanted to do that I couldn't afford the 1700 so I'd have to stick with the 1600.
I majority play games on my pc but I have a bit of an operation going with ripping blu rays and transcoding them for my Plex server. Will the 1700 really make a £100 difference to transcoding and gaming? For note I am not adverse to overclocking.
To summarise my options are such:
£400 budget
1700 £300, motherboard £80-90 - £390ish
1600 £200, motherboard £80-90, corsair 600w SFX PSU £90 - £380ish
Thoughts? I'm personally leaning towards the latter with the thought I can always upgrade the CPU in future.
Just looking to see if anyone can recommend a monitor stand for me to get. Currently have 2 ASUS VG248QE and think i would be best to put them on a stand so i can get a bit more room on my desk as well as have them higher as i am tall as it is. In the UK so would need to be probably a site from there. Thanks
Here are my thoughts.
The extra 2 cores/4 threads would probably make a notable difference IMO as long as the software you're using using is capable of utilizing all 16 threads. It's hard to say how bad your cooling situation is but if you are getting good temps on the 5820K already I can't see Ryzen making that a bottleneck.
Also regarding cooling the CPU,I'm assuming since it's an HTPC and you're having wire issues that it is fairly small. I'm not sure how large your case but will the Wraith cooler even fit? It's quite a bit larger than the stock intel coolers. Do you already have another solution?
No I would need quad sli titan xps.
Burgess_101
Member
My room is a bit of an anomaly when it comes to temperature. I only live in the UK but my room is either freezing cold or boiling hot, nowhere in between. When it gets to summer I worry that the 5820k will get way too hot. It idles at around 55-60c when its cold, I am using a Scythe Big Shuriken 2 which is really low profile. If I went to AM4 I'd have to get another heatsink because its not supported. The clearance isn't a lot, especially with a blu ray drive but I am sure I can find something.
It is a really tricky one, hopefully I can sell on my parts and scrape enough together to afford the 1700.
Vic_Viper
Member
Lenovo y50-70
Last night I woke up my Laptop from being in sleep mode when I got home from work. Went downstairs to eat dinner and when I came back up it was sitting at an error screen saying: EPI Network 0 for IPv4. Found out it couldnt boot from the HDD which probably means the drive failed or is dead. I opened up the back and dried disconnecting and reconnecting the HDD and still no luck. Also tried switching the boot to legacy but that would just cause it to endlessly loop booting saying to check the cable, drive failed.
Is there anyway to save the drive? Is there any way to clone the HDD?
Anyone here have any recommendations for a good Laptop around or under $500? Not looking for a gaming laptop. Just something I can use for work/school with the fastest Wifi card possible and high resolution for videos. Im getting a good external drive so I dont run into this problem again.
Last night I woke up my Laptop from being in sleep mode when I got home from work. Went downstairs to eat dinner and when I came back up it was sitting at an error screen saying: EPI Network 0 for IPv4. Found out it couldnt boot from the HDD which probably means the drive failed or is dead. I opened up the back and dried disconnecting and reconnecting the HDD and still no luck. Also tried switching the boot to legacy but that would just cause it to endlessly loop booting saying to check the cable, drive failed.
Is there anyway to save the drive? Is there any way to clone the HDD?
Anyone here have any recommendations for a good Laptop around or under $500? Not looking for a gaming laptop. Just something I can use for work/school with the fastest Wifi card possible and high resolution for videos. Im getting a good external drive so I dont run into this problem again.
Bloodember
Member
If its just the hard drive, replace that.
Built my last PC about 5 years ago (i5 3570k and GTX 670) and looking to upgrade this year to:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor (£239.48 @ CCL Computers)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X52 Liquid CPU Cooler (£133.80 @ Alza)
Motherboard: MSI B350M MORTAR ARCTIC Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£93.80 @ Alza)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£127.20 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card (£414.98 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C with Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£70.98 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1080.24
I have a Corsair TX650 PSU and HDD/SDDs that I will re-use and I'm currently gaming at 2560x1080p
I'm waiting on Vega news before pulling the trigger but had some questions I'm hoping GAF can help me with:
1. Ryzen 1600 or 1600X? I can't make up my mind, I will definitely be looking into overclocking and have heard the 1600 overclocks as well as the 1600X, but also that the stock AMD cooler won't cut it for overclocking. Not sure which way to go, this related to question...
2. I've also been reading about the need to keep Ryzen sub 70^C and therefore the need for a good cooling solution. Originally I was just going to get a Cryorig H7 but then saw a video on YouTube which suggested it would struggle to keep an 1600/X overclock sub 70^C. But I've also been reading about temps being reported incorrectly with a +20^C offset... the whole thing is really confusing me, can someone please help me to understand what is going on with temps on Ryzen?
3. RAM compatibility. I've checked the MSI website and it says that the Mortar does support Corsair RAM up to 3200, but also read many reports of people having issues with 3200 speed RAM. I'm assuming all these types of issues get ironed out over time?
Thanks.
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor (£239.48 @ CCL Computers)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X52 Liquid CPU Cooler (£133.80 @ Alza)
Motherboard: MSI B350M MORTAR ARCTIC Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£93.80 @ Alza)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£127.20 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card (£414.98 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Define Mini C with Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£70.98 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £1080.24
I have a Corsair TX650 PSU and HDD/SDDs that I will re-use and I'm currently gaming at 2560x1080p
I'm waiting on Vega news before pulling the trigger but had some questions I'm hoping GAF can help me with:
1. Ryzen 1600 or 1600X? I can't make up my mind, I will definitely be looking into overclocking and have heard the 1600 overclocks as well as the 1600X, but also that the stock AMD cooler won't cut it for overclocking. Not sure which way to go, this related to question...
2. I've also been reading about the need to keep Ryzen sub 70^C and therefore the need for a good cooling solution. Originally I was just going to get a Cryorig H7 but then saw a video on YouTube which suggested it would struggle to keep an 1600/X overclock sub 70^C. But I've also been reading about temps being reported incorrectly with a +20^C offset... the whole thing is really confusing me, can someone please help me to understand what is going on with temps on Ryzen?
3. RAM compatibility. I've checked the MSI website and it says that the Mortar does support Corsair RAM up to 3200, but also read many reports of people having issues with 3200 speed RAM. I'm assuming all these types of issues get ironed out over time?
Thanks.
Vic_Viper
Member
I have a spare laptop drive at the house. What do I need to do other than replacing it?
Theres no disk drive and I dont have a spare Windows 10 disk to use with the external disk drive.
You will need to come up with a Win10 license. For ease if you don't have another PC, just buy it from Amazon already on a USB stick.
1. Lot of base 1600 will go to 4.0. 1600X are binned chips that take some of the luck out of the silicon lottery.
2. The 20 degree offset is just R7 chips. The wraith spire is a good stock cooler but is unlikely to be enough to hit max OC. Some ppl report after market air coolers being fine up to 3.9-4.0, some don't.
3. You might not get to 3200 straight away but usually bios updates fix that stuff. Big updates on memory compatibility expected this month (May).
Vic_Viper
Member
Installed the spare HDD I had and I still have the same issue. Mind you this spare HDD didnt have Windows installed.
Is this good or bad?
I'm not familiar with the error codes for your specific PC, but in general an empty hard drive is the same as a broken hard drive. The device is trying to do something with the contents of the drive, so if it's broken or empty it'll probably look the same from the user perspective.
If you want to save the drive, or try to, get a Sata->USB connector and just plug it into another computer and try to access the files that way. Always worked for me, assuming the drive isn't completely dead.
Did you already try entering Windows Recovery with your old HDD still installed?
Thanks! Just waiting on Vega then.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Realistically, water-cooled builds are to chase numbers on OC. Not sure how many people actually go that route because they live in a hot place and I don't think that's a major concern. I mean you use AC, right? So your ambient temps are going to be reasonable.
Is it a pain? Well, let's see: you gotta buy a ton more shit that's not particularly cheap, learn how the components work, make sure everything is compatible, put it all together, survive the leak test, and then maintain it. So, yes, it's a pain. As someone who is almost finished with a new water build I can also say it's been some of the most fun I've had building a PC.
Unless you're really compelled to do it for the purposes of achieving maximum OC and squeezing a few more fps, hybrid is probably the route for you.
At your budget you can get a solid rig. For god's sake just don't skimp on the GPU. A 1080Ti with hybrid cooling would be my suggestion. That does eat like 700-some-odd dollars right out of your budget but you said you wanted to go high tier, right?
Realistically, water-cooled builds are to chase numbers on OC. Not sure how many people actually go that route because they live in a hot place and I don't think that's a major concern. I mean you use AC, right? So your ambient temps are going to be reasonable.
Is it a pain? Well, let's see: you gotta buy a ton more shit that's not particularly cheap, learn how the components work, make sure everything is compatible, put it all together, survive the leak test, and then maintain it. So, yes, it's a pain. As someone who is almost finished with a new water build I can also say it's been some of the most fun I've had building a PC.
Unless you're really compelled to do it for the purposes of achieving maximum OC and squeezing a few more fps, hybrid is probably the route for you.
At your budget you can get a solid rig. For god's sake just don't skimp on the GPU. A 1080Ti with hybrid cooling would be my suggestion. That does eat like 700-some-odd dollars right out of your budget but you said you wanted to go high tier, right?
Thanks for the knowledge. I appreciate it. That does sound both fun and a pain. Something to think about. And no, i wont skimp on the GPU!
Really just decideing between Ryzen 7 and i7.
Burgess_101
Member
Is anyone here using an AM4 MicroATX board? Any recommendations? I just can't choose. I liked the gigabyte D3H but I can't find it anywhere in the UK.
D
Deleted member 22576
Unconfirmed Member
Shiiieeet, guess my CPU cooler is starting to give up the ghost. Its pretty hot today but my CPU temp in Dirt Rally VR was like 87c or something insane like that.