DrForester
Kills Photobucket
Any noticeable difference between the Samsung 960 EVO and 960 Pro NVMe drives? I'm not seeing what's causing the nearly $100 price difference.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
The Pro is intended for high-end production work IIRC. I read the reviews at launch, and it was mostly "you really probably don't need this level of speed", especially not for gaming, especially for the price. Unless you absolutely need the longer warranty and increased endurance.
DrForester
Kills Photobucket
Just gaming. Glad to know I can go with the cheaper option.
No sense going for the old 4460, especially if future proofing is your goal. Either go for a i5 7500 or a r5 1600 build. The only upgrade path in your build is to get a new gpu down the road.
i5 build.
Upgrade paths are:
i5 7500 + stock cooler --> 7700k + new cooler + oc
Get additional ram, once needed
Get a better GPU
Get modern m2 ssd drives
The MB supports usb 3.1
r5 build
Upgrade paths are
r5 1600 + stock cooler --> new cooler + oc; new and better ryzen CPU
Get additional ram, once needed
Get a better GPU
Get modern m2 ssd drives
The MB supports usb 3.1
Both builds are stronger, have more modern components, better upgrade paths, are capable 1080p/60 gaming rigs and it will be easier for them to stand the test of time in comparison to the i5-4460 haswell build.
If you don't want tp upgrade the i5 system get a h270 mainboard and ddr4 2400 MHz ram instead.
Performance wise the r5 build is a bit stronger, but the i5 build will be more powerful once you upgrade to the 7700k. That said, ryzen has the potential to become the better cpu for gaming in the future because of the core/thread advantage. Just get whatever you and your brother prefer.
Thanks for the input, you are certainly right about performance, but I bought a noise isolated case and I'd need to remove parts of the isolation to mount the waterblock... that's easily done but than my case wouldn't be noise isolated anymore.
I'll play around with the cryorig r1 universal over the weekend and if it is too loud I'll get the bequiet dark rock pro, i think.
Thanks to both you and Bloodember!
For the CPU, how about meeting in the middle for an i5-7600k? He will want to upgrade to an i7 or i9 in much later, but we can definitely afford pushing for a kaby lake.Was having a hard time finding a mobo that was guaranteed to be compatible with a 7600k without updating BIOS. We could go with a 6600K?
Did some research and we're settling on the 7500 with a MSI - Z270 A PRO. Thanks ya'll!
Putting together a new machine. How do things look?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($294.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI - H270M MORTAR ARCTIC Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($98.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($247.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($393.89 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design - Define Mini C MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1415.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-17 22:03 EDT-0400
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($294.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI - H270M MORTAR ARCTIC Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($98.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($219.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($247.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($393.89 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design - Define Mini C MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1415.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-17 22:03 EDT-0400
Unless you really need the 32GB or RAM you might want to consider 16 and then take the savings and bump your video card to a 1080. Assuming that this is for gaming that would be a more effective use of your money.
I'm going back and forth on this yea.
It's mixed use gaming, game dev, and machine learning.
I appreciate the recommendation, but I'm looking for something a little cheaper. I know there's a $500 Bekant, but the specific one I have my eye on is $210.
What the guy above me said AND could save almost 100$ getting something like 850 evo 500gb ssd, if you dont do some big file handling like video editing or something your not gonna see the difference of that 960 evo.
If you're of mixed minds one thing to keep in mind is that it's easier/cheaper to upgrade 16 to 32 down the road than it would be to sell your 1070 and buy a 1080.
Also, I'm sure you know, but you'll need a CPU cooler. The cost of bumping from a 7700 to a 7700k might be worth it as well given how you'll use it (even if you don't overclock it will run faster).
I thought the non-k's came with a cooler. If they do I don't see a need for buying one just cause. I've never had problems with stock coolers before.
And my previous experience with Factal Design Define cases is that it shields enough noise where you can't hear the fans at all ever -- so I don't see a gain from a noise perspective either.
EDIT: my bad, looks like I will have to get a cooler. lame.
Just assembled my VR PC! Shout out to everyone holding down the fort here- this thread inspired me 5+ years ago that building my own PC was possible.
Ignore my question. But I can confirm the Noctua NH-D15 fits in the NZXT S340 case. However it's been really painful plugging in everything around it.
Ignore my question. But I can confirm the Noctua NH-D15 fits in the NZXT S340 case. However it's been really painful plugging in everything around it.
That's funny, I was about to reply with "my bad" as well. I forgot it came with a stock cooler, although as you say it's not meant to be very good if you're pushing the CPU hard.
I'm using a 7700 with the stock cooler and it doesn't throttle.
edit: here's 10 minutes of aida64.
During gaming it stays near 68C.
Chinbo37
Member
I dont like quoting myself but I always have bad luck in this thread getting responses.
Can anyone think of what would be going on in the above?
Chinbo37
Member
Yes both with Borderlands 2.
Vsync on in both situations.
I need to check GPU and CPU use. What do I use CPU Z?
Thank you guys for the help, it's really appreciated! So, you convinced me to upgrade, especially since I thought I was going to spend more. I live in Italy and don't know if I can order from Newegg, besides the package would take a long time to arrive and I'd have to pay 20% on taxes when it does. So I searched on Amazon and found the same RAM for €60 on Amazon and the same processor for €60 on Amazon, the motherboard goes for €63 new on Amazon, or €55 on Amazon warehouse deals. So €183 or €175 total.
What do you say? Is it still worth it for those parts? Also,how do I know if my case is ok for the new motherboard (should I post a photo or are cases universal nowadays)? Should I change my power supply as well? Could I play newer AAA games with those parts? I mean not at max settings of course, but could I play, let's say The Witcher III at medium settings or something along those lines, or would I build just a more powerful indie machine? Is that more of a graphics card thing?
Sorry for the many questions, I really suck with this stuff and I want to be sure I'm doing the right thing. You guys are a big help. =)
ColdDeckEd
Member
That's stock voltage? Did you use a liquid metal between the die and heat spreader? Scrape off the old adhesive? Did you run realbench before delidding? I'd say try remounting your noctua before buying a new one.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Since you'd be paying 63 on the motherboard, I'd suggest going straight for this:
https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01N7MLXOK/
Which will have native kabylake support.
As for performance, you'll still be bound by your GPU, but you would be able to play a game like the Witcher 3, and get performance ranging from 30 fps to 60 fps depending on settings. See here:
https://youtu.be/z9icA4wyRXA
Which means by the time you pick up a more capable GPU, you should be able to sustain high performance, even with tweaked high or ultra settings. See:
https://youtu.be/SW_e_m89j-c
(This was with a Titan card, to remove GPU bottleneck and all)
The G4560 is an astonishingly capable budget CPU.
Bloodember
Member
Crucial and Kingston make good ssd's.
Tajaz2426
Psychology PhD from Wikipedia University
I have a Crucial MX300 1TB M.2 and it is pretty darn snappy.
ISee
Member
Is it actually a problem for an i7 7700k to run at ~70°C (package temperature) for several hours?
I'm playing around with overclocking and voltage controls and that thing is really getting hot quick, 5GHz are undoable. 4.8 GHz at 1.245V (max) seems to be the sweetspot for my silicon. Aida64 and realbench can run for hours. Temperature is around 75°C there.
I'm right now testing stability in gaming scenarios and temperature is also rather high there if CPU load goes up (e.g. if I unlock the frame rate). 70°C during synthetic benchmarks is okay , but doesn't feel good (safe) during gaming.
If it is a modern, cheap kabylake-laptop intel optane drives might be a worthwhile solution.
I'm playing around with overclocking and voltage controls and that thing is really getting hot quick, 5GHz are undoable. 4.8 GHz at 1.245V (max) seems to be the sweetspot for my silicon. Aida64 and realbench can run for hours. Temperature is around 75°C there.
I'm right now testing stability in gaming scenarios and temperature is also rather high there if CPU load goes up (e.g. if I unlock the frame rate). 70°C during synthetic benchmarks is okay , but doesn't feel good (safe) during gaming.
If it is a modern, cheap kabylake-laptop intel optane drives might be a worthwhile solution.
Is this really feasible ? I wasn't prepared to have to basically start a whole new build with new mobo ram and cpu. But would a new gpu barely make a difference due to everything else being the same, or no ?
It is at stock voltage, which is a bit over 1.3v. Which makes me think I should try undervolting the core before thinking maybe it's a terrible core. I used Liquid Metal from Thermal Grizzly, scraped old adhesive off. Re-did this after I saw my temps to ensure everything was perfect, got the same high temps.
1.3v is way too much. That's 4.8-5ghz territory,
If the VID really is 1.3v at stock it's not so great
1.3v is way too much. That's 4.8-5ghz territory,
If the VID really is 1.3v at stock it's not so great
Yea, it's the highest VID I've seen for stock settings. I'll tinker around with the overclock settings and see what the results are. Selling this core and re-buying another isn't out of the question if it's really bad.
ISee
Member
This depends mainly on your budget, the settings you want to use and the resolution/fps you want to reach. Normally a 1060 is considered to be enough for high settings @1080p/60. A 1080 would allow you to play at higher refresh rates, "ultra" settings and give you more headroom for the future. Is it worth the extra cost? No, idea. That's your decision
The first vega iteration will be called Frontiers Edition and will be targeted at professional consumers. It will take a couple more months before gaming cards are going to be available.
It will most probably be a 13 tflops card (GTX 1080 overclocked = 10tflops). But so far AMD needs more tflops to reach the performance of nvidia gpus, in gaming scenarios. For example a rx 580 and gtx 1060 are more or less similar in performance, but the 580 is a 6.1 tflops card and the 1060 is a 4.8 tflops card. This could of course change with vega, but it's to early to make recommendations here.
See how far you can downvolt or even overclock it and aim for 1.25-1.3v. Might still be a good chip, VID isn't everything.
And make sure the bios is updated,
DrForester
Kills Photobucket
Gentlemen, I am upgrading my processor and joining the NVMe world with a new 1080ti.
See you on the flip side.
See you on the flip side.
ChoklitReign
Member
Ordered everything last night. Parts list:
GPU: GIGABYTE Radeon RX 580
CPU: AMD RYZEN 5 1600
RAM: G.SKILL Flare X Series 16GB DDR4 2400 Model F4-2400C15D-16GFX
MB: GIGABYTE GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 (rev. 1.0)
HDD: Hitachi HGST Deskstar 7K2000 2TB
Case: ZALMAN Z3
Monitor: LG 29UM67P 29" Free-Sync 21:9 UltraWide
[reusing SSD w/ Windows and PSU]
Asking for support:
1. Guide to the specific motherboard and how to overclock CPU and RAM
2. How to move Windows on an SSD to a new computer without buying a new key (call MS I think?)
GPU: GIGABYTE Radeon RX 580
CPU: AMD RYZEN 5 1600
RAM: G.SKILL Flare X Series 16GB DDR4 2400 Model F4-2400C15D-16GFX
MB: GIGABYTE GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 (rev. 1.0)
HDD: Hitachi HGST Deskstar 7K2000 2TB
Case: ZALMAN Z3
Monitor: LG 29UM67P 29" Free-Sync 21:9 UltraWide
[reusing SSD w/ Windows and PSU]
Asking for support:
1. Guide to the specific motherboard and how to overclock CPU and RAM
2. How to move Windows on an SSD to a new computer without buying a new key (call MS I think?)
Bubba_Sparks
Member
I'm currently looking at getting the AOC AGON AG271QG. Does anyone have any experience with this monitor? I checked out a couple of reviews and they seemed pretty positive!
I'm looking at mating it to this system:
CPU: Intel Core i7 7700k
Cooler: Corsair H100i v2
Mobo: ASUS MAXIMUS IX Hero
RAM: G.SKILL TRIDENT Z RGB 3200 Mhz 16Gb
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 TI ARMOR 11G OC
I'm looking at mating it to this system:
CPU: Intel Core i7 7700k
Cooler: Corsair H100i v2
Mobo: ASUS MAXIMUS IX Hero
RAM: G.SKILL TRIDENT Z RGB 3200 Mhz 16Gb
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 TI ARMOR 11G OC
My computer keeps randomly shutting off while browsing the web.
The first time it happened I just suddenly had a black screen and one of the fans kicked up. So I started monitoring temps. Temps never went above 30-40c on either the CPU or GPU while browsing right up until another crash.
Second time it happened I got an error saying atimdag.sys system_error_exception with a blue screen
Third time it happened it shut off before it even got last the bios screen.
Did the normal trouble shooting steps tightened internal connections and tried removing all but 1 ram stick. Got back on but crashed to a black screen with no error again.
I've tried about 3 times now to run a graphics card driver update to no avail. The third time it actually ran through but said there was an error and the registry was possibly corrupt. I ran sfc scan but it found no errors.
I think it is GPU related but my Mobo has no video output for some reason (only a USB type C port??) and I don't just keep spares of those lying around.
Currently I'm attempting a clean uninstall of drivers to see if that works.
Specs
CPU: i7-6700k
RAM: 16GB
GPU: R9 Nano
Everything is stock no overclocking
edit: Clean removal and re-installation of the drivers seems to fixed it fingers crossed.
double edit: getting weird visual artifacts on the top of the screen when scrolling through web pages now. It looks similar to screen tearing.
Triple edit: updating to Radeon Beta Drivers fixed the artifacting
The first time it happened I just suddenly had a black screen and one of the fans kicked up. So I started monitoring temps. Temps never went above 30-40c on either the CPU or GPU while browsing right up until another crash.
Second time it happened I got an error saying atimdag.sys system_error_exception with a blue screen
Third time it happened it shut off before it even got last the bios screen.
Did the normal trouble shooting steps tightened internal connections and tried removing all but 1 ram stick. Got back on but crashed to a black screen with no error again.
I've tried about 3 times now to run a graphics card driver update to no avail. The third time it actually ran through but said there was an error and the registry was possibly corrupt. I ran sfc scan but it found no errors.
I think it is GPU related but my Mobo has no video output for some reason (only a USB type C port??) and I don't just keep spares of those lying around.
Currently I'm attempting a clean uninstall of drivers to see if that works.
Specs
CPU: i7-6700k
RAM: 16GB
GPU: R9 Nano
Everything is stock no overclocking
edit: Clean removal and re-installation of the drivers seems to fixed it fingers crossed.
double edit: getting weird visual artifacts on the top of the screen when scrolling through web pages now. It looks similar to screen tearing.
Triple edit: updating to Radeon Beta Drivers fixed the artifacting
Celcius
°Temp. member
Finally got around to updating the bios on my Asus Maximus IX Hero.
I got it the first week of January and the bios was from December but today I saw that the latest bios available was from late March and the notes mentioned improved stability, improved performance, and other things so I figured why not. Beforehand I took bios screenshots of all my settings and then after updating it I just viewed the pictures on my laptop while entering the settings on my pc. Feels good.
I got it the first week of January and the bios was from December but today I saw that the latest bios available was from late March and the notes mentioned improved stability, improved performance, and other things so I figured why not. Beforehand I took bios screenshots of all my settings and then after updating it I just viewed the pictures on my laptop while entering the settings on my pc. Feels good.
I just did a fresh install to W10 Creators Edition....
Can someone tell me why my CPU is not staying at 4.5ghz? Nothing has changed in BIOS. I've always had it set to manual, and it was a steady 4.5, until I just updated W10. Now it shows the following:
Check multiplier section. It's never been like that before and like I mentioned, I haven't changed anything in BIOS...
Can someone tell me why my CPU is not staying at 4.5ghz? Nothing has changed in BIOS. I've always had it set to manual, and it was a steady 4.5, until I just updated W10. Now it shows the following:
Check multiplier section. It's never been like that before and like I mentioned, I haven't changed anything in BIOS...
SirMossyBloke
Member
Hey guys.
Looks like I'm going to upgrade my GPU tomorrow from my 970. I was going to go for a 1080ti but the prices...man In canada I can't find one for any less than around $950+.
Anyway, I'll be getting the 1080 instead which should be a massive upgrade for me, but a couple of questions:
1. Looking at the Asus ROG, but a friend of mine said be careful I don't get the one with thermal issues. I should be looking for an "A" in the product code, so is "STRIX-GTX1080-A8G-GAMING" the right one then?
2. I read on here maybe theres two ways of connecting power, something like that/ I'm probably confused but there seemed to be multiple connectors on the top of the card not including the SLI one, is this true or am I completely wrong? Just want to make sure I don't screw anything up.
Edit: There's also the Gigabyte G1 Gaming edition which has a higher boost clock than the Asus, and is $50 cheaper. It's the "GV-N1080G1 GAMING-8GD" Anyone know which one is better?
Looks like I'm going to upgrade my GPU tomorrow from my 970. I was going to go for a 1080ti but the prices...man
In canada I can't find one for any less than around $950+.Anyway, I'll be getting the 1080 instead which should be a massive upgrade for me, but a couple of questions:
1. Looking at the Asus ROG, but a friend of mine said be careful I don't get the one with thermal issues. I should be looking for an "A" in the product code, so is "STRIX-GTX1080-A8G-GAMING" the right one then?
2. I read on here maybe theres two ways of connecting power, something like that/ I'm probably confused but there seemed to be multiple connectors on the top of the card not including the SLI one, is this true or am I completely wrong? Just want to make sure I don't screw anything up.
Edit: There's also the Gigabyte G1 Gaming edition which has a higher boost clock than the Asus, and is $50 cheaper. It's the "GV-N1080G1 GAMING-8GD" Anyone know which one is better?
Celcius
°Temp. member
Does it only downclock when idle or does it stay at that speed even under load?
Are you running under the "high performance" power plan setting?
It constantly changes -- looking at cpu-z and hwinfo64
ran heaven test and it maxes at 3.4ghz, which is my stock clock, even though the multiplier is set to 45 and it says (12 - 45) right in cpu z
e: Looks like changing the power plan from 'balanced' to 'high performance' solved the problem
So, I'm considering buying a new case and liquid cooler; the NZXT S340 Elite and Kraken X62.
However, I'm reading rumours of new intel chips coming in the summer with a new socket. I'm wondering if it's better to wait and check for compatibility (particularly on the cooler) before spending my hard-earned as I would like to upgrade my CPU at some point in time.
Thoughts?
However, I'm reading rumours of new intel chips coming in the summer with a new socket. I'm wondering if it's better to wait and check for compatibility (particularly on the cooler) before spending my hard-earned as I would like to upgrade my CPU at some point in time.
Thoughts?
Hey guys.
Looks like I'm going to upgrade my GPU tomorrow from my 970. I was going to go for a 1080ti but the prices...man
Anyway, I'll be getting the 1080 instead which should be a massive upgrade for me, but a couple of questions:
1. Looking at the Asus ROG, but a friend of mine said be careful I don't get the one with thermal issues. I should be looking for an "A" in the product code, so is "STRIX-GTX1080-A8G-GAMING" the right one then?
2. I read on here maybe theres two ways of connecting power, something like that/ I'm probably confused but there seemed to be multiple connectors on the top of the card not including the SLI one, is this true or am I completely wrong? Just want to make sure I don't screw anything up.
Edit: There's also the Gigabyte G1 Gaming edition which has a higher boost clock than the Asus, and is $50 cheaper. It's the "GV-N1080G1 GAMING-8GD" Anyone know which one is better?
I don't have an answer but I'm interested in this too as I might go for a 1080 instead of a 1070.
opticalmace
Member
What cpu/cooler do you have now?