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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Looking on Newegg, there's like 8+ options for a given 1060. Is there anything in particular to look for on those cards?
MSI 1060 Gaming X, Asus 1060 Dual or Strix, EVGA 1060 SC or SSC (not the quietest or coolest, but often cheaper, avoid the non-SC even though it looks the same)
Also consider what kind of fan it uses. Is it venting the air out the back or into the case? If you have a case with good air flow, get a fan that vents into the case.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Thanks for the help guys.
I'll pass these posts onto him and let him make the final call!
I'll pass these posts onto him and let him make the final call!
MissCauthon
Member
So im about to upgrade real soon thinking of going with the i7-7700k altho people keep saying theres heating issues, should i wait? Also i read on gamespot that intel are readying some i9's??? Should i wait or what.
metareferential
Member
It depends; are going to play only on this rig? Are doing rendering?
If you're mainly gaming and doing some work, a 7700k is still the best choice.
If you want a capable machine that can handle multithreaded workloads you could go the Ryzen route. A Ryzen 7 1700, for example. Or a Ryzen 5 1600/1600x.
Vic_Viper
Member
Need help finding a good Wireless Network PCI-E Card for my PC
Looking to get a better Wireless Network card for my PC. Was looking at the Asus AC3100 but it looks like it's about to be out of stock on Amazon with no more coming in. Is it about to be replaced with something else? I can get them on Newegg but I'd rather buy from Amazon, and I can wait if there's something new replacing it.
Are there any other Wifi A/C PCI-E cards I should look at also that are comparable? I'd like something that can connect to 5Ghz and has the wired antenna.
https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/PCE-AC88/
Just got a new Laptop with a 5Ghz compatible network card and the connection speeds are ridiculous compared to my PC.
Also, what is Neweggs return policy regarding unboxed items? If I hook it up and it doesnt end up solving my issue can I return it? Pretty sure I can with Amazon but it doesnt seem like they are currently selling the card im looking at, only 3rd party sellers atm.
Looking to get a better Wireless Network card for my PC. Was looking at the Asus AC3100 but it looks like it's about to be out of stock on Amazon with no more coming in. Is it about to be replaced with something else? I can get them on Newegg but I'd rather buy from Amazon, and I can wait if there's something new replacing it.
Are there any other Wifi A/C PCI-E cards I should look at also that are comparable? I'd like something that can connect to 5Ghz and has the wired antenna.
https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/PCE-AC88/
Just got a new Laptop with a 5Ghz compatible network card and the connection speeds are ridiculous compared to my PC.
Also, what is Neweggs return policy regarding unboxed items? If I hook it up and it doesnt end up solving my issue can I return it? Pretty sure I can with Amazon but it doesnt seem like they are currently selling the card im looking at, only 3rd party sellers atm.
Chinbo37
Member
I put this in the stupid gaming questions thread but no one answered. Maybe someone here can help?
I got a 144hz monitor and I was playing Borderlands 2 with all my settings cranked up to max. I have a GTX 970 and 7700K. The game ran pretty much locked to 144 fps.
But then I loaded up a co-op game with my friend and I noticed the FPS was dipping down to below 100 even below 60 sometimes.
Is that somehow related to my setup or is that due to network issues? I have a fiber connection its pretty fast.
Anyways I was just wondering what would cause that?
I got a 144hz monitor and I was playing Borderlands 2 with all my settings cranked up to max. I have a GTX 970 and 7700K. The game ran pretty much locked to 144 fps.
But then I loaded up a co-op game with my friend and I noticed the FPS was dipping down to below 100 even below 60 sometimes.
Is that somehow related to my setup or is that due to network issues? I have a fiber connection its pretty fast.
Anyways I was just wondering what would cause that?
Chinbo37
Member
I have one and its a great CPU super fast but it gets hot and spins the fans up often. I only installed it last week and I noticed it seems to be getting better.
Runs between 34-40 idling but sometimes the CPU temp will jump up to 50/60 for seemingly no reason other than opening a simple program or window. Then it usually goes back down a couple seconds after. So far the highest Ive seen it get was the mid 70s while gaming.
Im keeping mine because I got it due to a RMA of a 6700k (which also had very similar issues but that isnt why I RMAed it). No plans to overclock but maybe later.
TC McQueen
Member
Yeah, Newegg will take the return and give you a refund. You'll have to pay the return shipping though.
Vic_Viper
Member
If I have opened the item and tried it out? Not saying im going to return it, but if it doesnt solve my problem Id like to be able to. Amazon has the AC3100 and AC1900 available as used-like new currently and I can always return them if Newegg doesnt take open item returns.
TC McQueen
Member
Yup. Done that with mobos in the past. You need to fill out the RMA form and tell them why you're returning it via a drop-down box.
JonnyDBrit
Member
MSI Afterburner (using rivatuner statistics server) can provide an actual line graph to see how temps rise and fall.
Hi guys, I need your help.
I've got a Pentium Dual-Core E5300 2.60 GHz, 2 GB DDR2 RAM, ASRock G41M-S motherboard, Nvidia GeForce GTX 750 graphics card, with Windows 7 (64 bit) installed.
So it's clear that I have an old ass processor and RAM. Nowadays trying to play some recent indie stuff like Abzu or The Witness has been a pain (slowdowns, stuttering), others plainly won't work (Torment) and I have to keep any other applications shut while I play some games, and even then my memory usage is still at max. I think it's mainly due to the RAM, moreso than on the processor, but I could be mistaken, so please do tell me. Anyway, my idea was to buy some RAM as a stopgap before I change the whole rig, so I'd like something very cheap.
Do you have any idea about what can I mount on my motherboard? Also, should I mount both my old one and my new one together or just replace the old one? Would it be wise and is it possible to buy something that I could reuse on my future rig? On Amazon I've seen:
- Crucial CT102464BF160B Memoria da 8 GB, DDR3L, 1600 MT/s, PC3L-12800, 204-Pin (€50)
- Kingston KVR16LS11/4 Memoria RAM da 4 GB, 1600 MHz, DDR3L, Non-ECC CL11 SODIMM, 1.35 V, 204-pin (€31)
What do you guys say? Any help is appreciated because I have no clue about hardware stuff.
I've got a Pentium Dual-Core E5300 2.60 GHz, 2 GB DDR2 RAM, ASRock G41M-S motherboard, Nvidia GeForce GTX 750 graphics card, with Windows 7 (64 bit) installed.
So it's clear that I have an old ass processor and RAM. Nowadays trying to play some recent indie stuff like Abzu or The Witness has been a pain (slowdowns, stuttering), others plainly won't work (Torment) and I have to keep any other applications shut while I play some games, and even then my memory usage is still at max. I think it's mainly due to the RAM, moreso than on the processor, but I could be mistaken, so please do tell me. Anyway, my idea was to buy some RAM as a stopgap before I change the whole rig, so I'd like something very cheap.
Do you have any idea about what can I mount on my motherboard? Also, should I mount both my old one and my new one together or just replace the old one? Would it be wise and is it possible to buy something that I could reuse on my future rig? On Amazon I've seen:
- Crucial CT102464BF160B Memoria da 8 GB, DDR3L, 1600 MT/s, PC3L-12800, 204-Pin (€50)
- Kingston KVR16LS11/4 Memoria RAM da 4 GB, 1600 MHz, DDR3L, Non-ECC CL11 SODIMM, 1.35 V, 204-pin (€31)
What do you guys say? Any help is appreciated because I have no clue about hardware stuff.
JonnyDBrit
Member
The problem in this regard is that unless you buy an older CPU and motherboard, that RAM would be incompatible with whatever you'd buy new - DDR4 is now the standard, and is incompatible with DDR3 sticks. Honestly, I'd stuck budgeting for a new build - at the very least, replacing the motherboard, CPU, and RAM.
thnx
Hey guys, building my first gaming PC since 2010 and have a couple of questions I could use some advice on.
Budget: $2000~, in the US, have access to a MicroCenter
Main Use: 5, possibly VR
Monitor Resolution: 1080p-1440p and would like to try gsync
When will you build?: Can wait until black friday
Will you be overclocking?: Probably not
1. My budget is around $2000 for the tower + monitor + OS. Is there anything new cpu/gpu-wise coming out and/or are the deals on black friday generally good enough to warrant waiting 6 more months to get the most bang for my budget?
2. Is the Acer XB271HU in the OP THE gsync monitor to get or are there other alternatives that are equally recommended?
3. I'm looking at the $1300 'Excellent' build on the PC build sheet in the OP as a baseline for my budget. Since I've been out of it for so long, is there anything I should watch out for in terms of compatibility if I want to substitute any of the parts for something else? (assume I'm essentially a novice)
4. What are the best PC to TV solutions? My desk is about 15 feet away from my TV so I was considering just using a long HDMI cable but how is the lag/performance on things like the steam link?
Budget: $2000~, in the US, have access to a MicroCenter
Main Use: 5, possibly VR
Monitor Resolution: 1080p-1440p and would like to try gsync
When will you build?: Can wait until black friday
Will you be overclocking?: Probably not
1. My budget is around $2000 for the tower + monitor + OS. Is there anything new cpu/gpu-wise coming out and/or are the deals on black friday generally good enough to warrant waiting 6 more months to get the most bang for my budget?
2. Is the Acer XB271HU in the OP THE gsync monitor to get or are there other alternatives that are equally recommended?
3. I'm looking at the $1300 'Excellent' build on the PC build sheet in the OP as a baseline for my budget. Since I've been out of it for so long, is there anything I should watch out for in terms of compatibility if I want to substitute any of the parts for something else? (assume I'm essentially a novice)
4. What are the best PC to TV solutions? My desk is about 15 feet away from my TV so I was considering just using a long HDMI cable but how is the lag/performance on things like the steam link?
Here are some good reviews that show a range of different options and how they compare.
http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/8041/enermax-ets-t50-axe-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html
http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/80...irit-140-direct-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html
You looking for a quiet solution?
If you don't mind absolutely massive, Noctua DH-15 or Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 3.
Noctua's probably the best air cooler out there, but it's so massive that it can be hard to fit in a lot of setups, and it's kind of ugly to boot. I'm liking the Be Quiet, though for the jet black colour.
Note that I haven't had any personal experience with either. But if you're going high-end air I'm assuming low-noise is a reason, otherwise you would go for an AIO liquid cooler.
I'm actually really liking that TRUE 140. I had the old Thermalright 120 Ultra Extreme and it was great.
Sometimes you really need to balance effectiveness with size. While some of the massive coolers are awesome, they are an absolute pain to work around. Want to take out RAM or GPU without unseating your cooler? Good luck. It'll be doable, but it'll be a complete pain in the ass. Main reason I went with an AIO, despite not the greatest low dB performance.
Owlowiscious
Member
not truely "new pc" related.
my hard drive full of decades of stuff I want to keep shows this
Any suggestions on file recovery programs? Or what thread I should ask this in?
my hard drive full of decades of stuff I want to keep shows this
Any suggestions on file recovery programs? Or what thread I should ask this in?
opticalmace
Member
Any case suggestions?
- it's for work, so something quiet and not too garrish would be nice.
- take a regular ATX board
- I would like the PSU to be hidden (sleeve/cover built in)
- easy cable routing
- no external drive bays
Price is flexible, but under $100 (USD) or so is about right. Thanks.
- it's for work, so something quiet and not too garrish would be nice.
- take a regular ATX board
- I would like the PSU to be hidden (sleeve/cover built in)
- easy cable routing
- no external drive bays
Price is flexible, but under $100 (USD) or so is about right. Thanks.
DDR2 memory? Darn that's old.
I'm afraid even going up to 4GB RAM would make little difference. Your best bet would be to save up some money and replace the CPU, motherboard and RAM in one go. $150 would do it.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($57.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus - H110M-A/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($41.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $154.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-17 02:23 EDT-0400
When buying the motherboard, ring up before ordering and ask if they'll update the BIOS so you can use a Kaby Lake processor.
Budget is perfectly fine, and if you're near a Microcenter you can get a decent board/CPU bundle. Going for the Excellent build with a 1070 will be great for 1440p (or a 1080 if the budget allows). I'm not too sure about monitors but for your PC/TV connection just use HDMI - if you're only gonna do Steam then a SteamLink is fine if networked in (not wireless).
Any of these should be good
Case: Corsair - 270R ATX Mid Tower Case ($42.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair - 270R Windowed ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.55 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Case: Fractal Design - Define C ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design - Define C with Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($82.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair - Carbide 400Q ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Corsair)
ISee
Member
Thank you two. Yes, size and noise matters. Was thinking about going for the Noctua DH15, but it's just too massive. The beQuiet! Dark pro 3 looks very nice, noise levels are very good, but cooling isn't as good as I'd like it to be. It's still on the list though.
An AIO is certainly a valid option, but I've read some articles saying that aircoolers help in cooling down some parts on the Mainboard and it could come to complication without it, so I'm a bit hesitant here.
Thinking about getting the Cryorig 1 Universal. Looks nice (at least a good fit for an asus z270 a), size isn't monstrous, ram isn't an issue, cooling and noise are okayish. But never heard of Cryorig before. Are they good and reliable?
Take a look at the Thermaltake Suppressor line. There is a mid (f31) and a big tower variant (f51). They are noise and dust isolated, have a no gamer look and good cable management. The more expansive power editions have a clear (see through) side panel.
An AIO is certainly a valid option, but I've read some articles saying that aircoolers help in cooling down some parts on the Mainboard and it could come to complication without it, so I'm a bit hesitant here.
Thinking about getting the Cryorig 1 Universal. Looks nice (at least a good fit for an asus z270 a), size isn't monstrous, ram isn't an issue, cooling and noise are okayish. But never heard of Cryorig before. Are they good and reliable?
Take a look at the Thermaltake Suppressor line. There is a mid (f31) and a big tower variant (f51). They are noise and dust isolated, have a no gamer look and good cable management. The more expansive power editions have a clear (see through) side panel.
Cryorig is a very good brand, I've installed one of these for a friend, nice cooler.
not truely "new pc" related.
my hard drive full of decades of stuff I want to keep shows this
Any suggestions on file recovery programs? Or what thread I should ask this in?
I always had luck with "get data back".
https://www.runtime.org/data-recovery-software.htm
Ok I give up... GSync is still way too expensive...
Any good recommendations for a 27" IPS screen?
I imagine it would automatically be a 1440p (which makes sense) but do modern monitors have good scalers? I like to plug my consoles into my monitor when I want to play a game and watch TV at the same time so it would need good 1080p support.
Edit: Now that I think about it, going for a 1080p would probably make more sense... I would save money, it would avoid my scaling issues and it's more logical to pay less now and upgrade to GSync in a couple of years when the price drops.
Edit 2: So turns out 27" IPS 1080p monitor don't really exist lol...
What do you guys think of that one?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KYCSRSG/
Any good recommendations for a 27" IPS screen?
I imagine it would automatically be a 1440p (which makes sense) but do modern monitors have good scalers? I like to plug my consoles into my monitor when I want to play a game and watch TV at the same time so it would need good 1080p support.
Edit: Now that I think about it, going for a 1080p would probably make more sense... I would save money, it would avoid my scaling issues and it's more logical to pay less now and upgrade to GSync in a couple of years when the price drops.
Edit 2: So turns out 27" IPS 1080p monitor don't really exist lol...
What do you guys think of that one?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KYCSRSG/
ISee
Member
Gsync will probably never get cheap...
I went for the Asus PB278QR (1440p) during the last amazon cyber monday event. Was thinking about an UHD display but GPU performance isn't good enough (yet) and 4k displays have no HDR support (or are way to expansive). So I settled for a cheaper 1440p/60 screen (interim solution for 1-2 years).
I recently plugged in my PS4PRo into the 1440p display and noticed the up-scaling immediately in games. Even with games that are being downsampled on the pro in 1080p mode (like Horizon Zero Dawn). Probably because the game is being downsampled from 2160c to 1080p by the Pro and than back up to 1440p by the display.
But for office work and gaming 1440p over 1080p is a noticeable and nice upgrade. If you're also looking for a interim solution the PB278QR is a nice pick and I plan to hold on to it as my second screen once 4k/hdr is doable.
Thx, I took you by your word and ordered it.
It should arrive on Friday. I also ordered the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermalpaste, Everybody seems to be crazy about it and I also wanted to give those overpriced thermal compounds a go (for once, at least). It's also just 5€, so whatever.
opticalmace
Member
Any of these should be good
Case: Corsair - 270R ATX Mid Tower Case ($42.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair - 270R Windowed ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.55 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Case: Fractal Design - Define C ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design - Define C with Window ATX Mid Tower Case ($82.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair - Carbide 400Q ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Corsair)
Thanks, checking them out now.
Bloodember
Member
Not sure where your looking but there are alot of 27" ips 1080p monitors, check newegg.com. They are a computer store, not Amazon. Then if you want to buy it from amazon do a search for that particular monitor.
CaptainABAB
Member
Where can I find some info about making a PC as SILENT as possible? Are there any recommended guides, sites, etc. that I can check out?
Anyone mind giving my projected build a review?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/f89GYr
Teaching my brother how to build a gaming PC on a budget of $950. He'll currently be playing at 1080p/60FPS, mostly playing Counter Strike, is looking forward to Rainbow Six, plays Dark Souls; wants to learn programming languages and learn/Linux (we'll be dual booting Mint/Windows 10)... he's cool with the benchmarks the 1060 6gb hits, and we're trying to future proof him in the sense that what we're building now will be easily upgradable in the next 5+ years.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/f89GYr
Teaching my brother how to build a gaming PC on a budget of $950. He'll currently be playing at 1080p/60FPS, mostly playing Counter Strike, is looking forward to Rainbow Six, plays Dark Souls; wants to learn programming languages and learn/Linux (we'll be dual booting Mint/Windows 10)... he's cool with the benchmarks the 1060 6gb hits, and we're trying to future proof him in the sense that what we're building now will be easily upgradable in the next 5+ years.
If you're looking for performance and have an appropriate case for it, just get an AIO. I wouldn't worry about mainboard cooling at all...I've never heard of anyone being limited in their overclocks with an AIO due to worse mainboard cooling. I'm sure your case will have plenty of airflow.
In fact, if your airflow setup is right, AIO cooling should be better for the mainboard because your RADs can directly exhaust instead of your heatsink's hot air blowing over the VRMs.
Do you have a spot for a 280mm RAD? Grab a Corsair H115i and call it a day.
I just wouldn't recommend an AIO if you're going for maximum silence. Due to needing sufficient static pressure for the rad, AIO will tend to be on the louder side of air coolers, since you need to maintain enough fan speed to generate enough pressure. I have to run my 140mm fans at around 800RPM. My old rig, by comparison, ran at around 400RPM on air. That being said, there may be some non-Corsair fans that would do a better job at low RPM...haven't really explored the possibilities there.
Bloodember
Member
Anyone mind giving my projected build a review?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/f89GYr
Teaching my brother how to build a gaming PC on a budget of $950. He'll currently be playing at 1080p/60FPS, mostly playing Counter Strike, is looking forward to Rainbow Six, plays Dark Souls; wants to learn programming languages and learn/Linux (we'll be dual booting Mint/Windows 10)... he's cool with the benchmarks the 1060 6gb hits, and we're trying to future proof him in the sense that what we're building now will be easily upgradable in the next 5+ years.
That CPU is very old, if you want to future proof him he needs kaby lake.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Nqv3nn
Here's a better build, if you can sqeeze a little more, try to get a SSD for your OS, you can do that by getting your Windows key from playasia.com, and downloading the iso from microsoft.
ISee
Member
Anyone mind giving my projected build a review?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/f89GYr
Teaching my brother how to build a gaming PC on a budget of $950. He'll currently be playing at 1080p/60FPS, mostly playing Counter Strike, is looking forward to Rainbow Six, plays Dark Souls; wants to learn programming languages and learn/Linux (we'll be dual booting Mint/Windows 10)... he's cool with the benchmarks the 1060 6gb hits, and we're trying to future proof him in the sense that what we're building now will be easily upgradable in the next 5+ years.
No sense going for the old 4460, especially if future proofing is your goal. Either go for a i5 7500 or a r5 1600 build. The only upgrade path in your build is to get a new gpu down the road.
i5 build.
Upgrade paths are:
i5 7500 + stock cooler --> 7700k + new cooler + oc
Get additional ram, once needed
Get a better GPU
Get modern m2 ssd drives
The MB supports usb 3.1
r5 build
Upgrade paths are
r5 1600 + stock cooler --> new cooler + oc; new and better ryzen CPU
Get additional ram, once needed
Get a better GPU
Get modern m2 ssd drives
The MB supports usb 3.1
Both builds are stronger, have more modern components, better upgrade paths, are capable 1080p/60 gaming rigs and it will be easier for them to stand the test of time in comparison to the i5-4460 haswell build.
If you don't want tp upgrade the i5 system get a h270 mainboard and ddr4 2400 MHz ram instead.
Performance wise the r5 build is a bit stronger, but the i5 build will be more powerful once you upgrade to the 7700k. That said, ryzen has the potential to become the better cpu for gaming in the future because of the core/thread advantage. Just get whatever you and your brother prefer.
Thanks for the input, you are certainly right about performance, but I bought a noise isolated case and I'd need to remove parts of the isolation to mount the waterblock... that's easily done but than my case wouldn't be noise isolated anymore.
I'll play around with the cryorig r1 universal over the weekend and if it is too loud I'll get the bequiet dark rock pro, i think.
BolognaOni
Member
Appreciable as in better overall performance, just for the CPU? No.
The EK kits are for custom loops- you're going to be doing a lot more work to get them running and keep them running but they'll be much more flexible if you also want the GPU on liquid.
Could I get a quick review of my build to see if there's anything glaring that I should replace/change? I do have access to a 50% off intel employee discount from a family member which I could leverage for the cpu but I'm still not sure if it's worth it to get an i7 over the i5 for the extra cost.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/YVQq8K
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/YVQq8K
Bloodember
Member
Looks good, if your only going to use it for gaming, the I5 will be fine. If your doing other things like video editing, photo editing or other CPU intensive stuff get the I7. In my opinion though, if I could get an I7 for 50% off, I'd get that, it's a no brainer.
TC McQueen
Member
If you can get a discount on an i7, do it. Enough games are starting to use more cores/threads that it's a worthwhile investment.
The cost you are paying for that K CPU is higher than going for an i7 7700.
JonnyDBrit
Member
Purely for gaming? Then yes, the 7700k remains king, for the time being.