That's Galax here in the US, at least.
http://www.galax.com/en/graphics-card/10-series/galax-geforcer-gtx-1080-exoc.html
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"I Need a New PC!" 2017 The Ryzing of Kaby Lake and NVMwhee!
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
That's Galax here in the US, at least.
http://www.galax.com/en/graphics-card/10-series/galax-geforcer-gtx-1080-exoc.html
Ok, is the brand(s) good then?
Since your main goal is content creation I would go with a Ryzen the extra cores will help.
Since you do not intend to overclock you can save on the Mobo.
The 1700 performs near identically to the more expensive 1700X so it's better to go with that IMO the differences is under 1% in most loads.
No need to go so ham on the RAM. Cheaper and slower the real world performance difference will never be felt.
You need a lot more than 250GB if you are aiming for content creation. For the same price you can get a slower 120GB SSD for Windows and a second 1TB HDD to store the stuff you've made.
480 8Gb is a solid GPU
Case is a matter of personal taste so I didn't touch it.
I also dropped the PSU down a bit since it was cheaper, the same bronze rating, and well within your power threshold.
As for wifi you can get one that will slot into your other PCIE slot or just go with a slower USB based one. It's really up to you it's not much more expensive either way.
T.Slothrop
Member
Sooo...
I'm currently rocking an i5 2500 That I've modestly overclocked with 8gb of ram in concert with a GTX 970.
I play a fair amount of Oculus VR and use a 1080p monitor. It runs surprisingly well! That said, I've got some extra cash and I'm assuming my next GPU will be bottlenecked by my CPU (if it isn't already)
Oh great and wise PC Gaf gods:What should I upgrade to?
I've had this setup since 2012 sans updated gpu. Would love to get the same life out of my next cpu/mobo and will spend accordingly.
I'm currently rocking an i5 2500 That I've modestly overclocked with 8gb of ram in concert with a GTX 970.
I play a fair amount of Oculus VR and use a 1080p monitor. It runs surprisingly well! That said, I've got some extra cash and I'm assuming my next GPU will be bottlenecked by my CPU (if it isn't already)
Oh great and wise PC Gaf gods:What should I upgrade to?
I've had this setup since 2012 sans updated gpu. Would love to get the same life out of my next cpu/mobo and will spend accordingly.
RamaTheVoice
Member
Good cards, shit support.
When you say spend accordingly how much are you aiming for? Because you will be replacing your MOBO, CPU, and RAM.
Also, is your main goal VR?
Fruitster
Member
PC Gaf, i'm about to upgrade my current PC with either a new graphics card or a new processor. This is currently only for 1080p gaming, although I want to make the step to 1440p, hence the upgrade. For people that have built their own pc's, i'd welcome some advice.
My pc has a GTX 970, and I plan to go for the 1070. However the processor is an AMD 6350 and is sure to be a bottleneck. Does anyone here know how badly that processor would hamper the 1070? The processor is certainly going to hold back my pc going forward and will need to be replaced.
The better idea currently seems to be to get an i5 7600 bundle (the processor, cooler, new motherboard and DDR4 Ram), stick with the 970 for now and get the 1070 later on. Or just get a whole new PC I guess.
My pc has a GTX 970, and I plan to go for the 1070. However the processor is an AMD 6350 and is sure to be a bottleneck. Does anyone here know how badly that processor would hamper the 1070? The processor is certainly going to hold back my pc going forward and will need to be replaced.
The better idea currently seems to be to get an i5 7600 bundle (the processor, cooler, new motherboard and DDR4 Ram), stick with the 970 for now and get the 1070 later on. Or just get a whole new PC I guess.
That processor would be a massive bottleneck. I'm talking current Pentium processors should outperform it bad.
You would be better off upgrading your processor/mobo/ram as the 970 isn't a bad card by any stretch of the imagination and should be able to do 1440p just by lowering some settings.
The other choice would be as you mentioned just starting a new build (you could re-use your case, PSU, and HDD)
Fruitster
Member
Thank you, that was certainly what I imagined
I'll certainly go for the i5 7600 then - as that requires a whole new motherboard and Ram, it's not far off a new build - I already changed out the power supply when I upgraded to the 970 from the old 660.
Thanks again, I appreciate the advice.
So you were one of the candidates for the AMD Ryzen build, I suggested (highly) you go with a 1700 CPU (include free cooler). Not the Intel
You're getting twice the cores for the same price and gaming is secondary.But which model card? GTX xxxx? Either way doesn't matter, like I said I'd go for cheaper option.
That or wait for Ryzen 5 in a month.Thank you, that was certainly what I imagined
I'll certainly go for the i5 7600 then - as that requires a whole new motherboard and Ram, it's not far off a new build - I already changed out the power supply when I upgraded to the 970 from the old 660.
Thanks again, I appreciate the advice.
What the hell is up with the Ryzen motherboards? Essentially none in-stock, especially the ones that accept 3000-3200mhz ram. Got all my shit here but a motherboard for Ryzen build-- the 1080ti that just arrived has been confirmed to be bottlenecked by my 2500k... to the surprise of no one lol
It's a super annoying situation right now. There's plenty here in the UK, but supply is still thin - add to that zero reviews and dodgy compatibility, and I'm starting to fear deciding on one for my build.
PlayALLtheGames
Banned
Sweet. A buddy of mine who is kind of OCD and constantly switching and upgrading his setup suddenly decided he wants a Ryzen build so selling me his 2 month old 7700k and Maximus IX Code mobo for 250 each. Lowest I found was 292 for 7700k and 286 for code so saving 80 bucks for basically new equipment with all original accessories and even boxes.
Thermaltake P5 case arrived a couple of days ago and I'll be putting it together this afternoon so I can take measurements and make sure everything I've got lined up will fit as expected.
Wish EVGA would hurry up with this damn 1080Ti step-up!
Thermaltake P5 case arrived a couple of days ago and I'll be putting it together this afternoon so I can take measurements and make sure everything I've got lined up will fit as expected.
Wish EVGA would hurry up with this damn 1080Ti step-up!
Yeah agreed. Thoughts on this?: http://www.ebuyer.com/739139-lg-29um68-29-ips-led-ultrawide-fhd-gaming-monitor-29um68-p
It ticks all the boxes (IPS, FreeSync, DisplayPort, FHD etc.), but I am a little worried about that extended Ultrawide resolution taxing my RX 480...
A good friend of mine surprised me by sending me the Rockit Cool delid/relid kit and Coolab's liquid metal, without my knowledge. Took a little over an hour to complete the procedure.
On Intel Burn Test high setting, went from 74c max to 48c. 6700k stock.
4.7ghz @1.32. burn test was 64c max on standard. Pre-delid it hit 98c.
On Intel Burn Test high setting, went from 74c max to 48c. 6700k stock.
4.7ghz @1.32. burn test was 64c max on standard. Pre-delid it hit 98c.
So you were one of the candidates for the AMD Ryzen build, I suggested (highly) you go with a 1700 CPU (include free cooler). Not the Intel
Do you mind if I PM you?
SystemShark
Member
So thanks to this thread I have purchased my new computer (first time building) since 2007!
Ended up with:
i5 7500
16 GB DDR4 ram
1T Barracuda HD
250GB Samsung SSD
EVGA GTX 1060 SC 3GB (wanted more but kept it within budget)
LG Bluray DVD writer optical drive (wanted the Bluray writer so bad, but the cost didn't justify the use; Harmy on Bluray instead of DVD DL )
Went with the MasterBox 3 Lite case, and I do have to say with the 600W EVGA PSU, it's not a ton of room for all the bloody cables. In any case, it all went together very smoothly, though I'm not actually sure I've got the LED cables plugged in properly, not that I care.
My only hiccup is I was planning on running my existing 22" HP w2207 monitor, sadly at 1680 x 1050 resolution only. Quickly discovered that the GTX 1060 doesn't have a VGA port, only a DVI-D port. Minor misstep on my part. Thankfully the Gigabyte motherboard has one and I can now use a dual monitor setup as my cousin has a 21" Samsung I may be able to get off him to hook up to the GPU via HDMI.
Now I'm excited to dip into my Steam library once I actually hook up to the GPU.
Quite surprised at how easy it all goes together. I did chicken out and had the tech guys I purchased from do a quick mount and install the CPU and RAM onto the motherboard for me, free of charge.
In any case, I had been wanting to do this for a long time, and if it wasn't for the awesome OP, I probably would have settled on a prebuilt Best Buy computer or something.
So thank you!
Ended up with:
i5 7500
16 GB DDR4 ram
1T Barracuda HD
250GB Samsung SSD
EVGA GTX 1060 SC 3GB (wanted more but kept it within budget)
LG Bluray DVD writer optical drive (wanted the Bluray writer so bad, but the cost didn't justify the use; Harmy on Bluray instead of DVD DL
)Went with the MasterBox 3 Lite case, and I do have to say with the 600W EVGA PSU, it's not a ton of room for all the bloody cables. In any case, it all went together very smoothly, though I'm not actually sure I've got the LED cables plugged in properly, not that I care.
My only hiccup is I was planning on running my existing 22" HP w2207 monitor, sadly at 1680 x 1050 resolution only. Quickly discovered that the GTX 1060 doesn't have a VGA port, only a DVI-D port. Minor misstep on my part. Thankfully the Gigabyte motherboard has one and I can now use a dual monitor setup as my cousin has a 21" Samsung I may be able to get off him to hook up to the GPU via HDMI.
Now I'm excited to dip into my Steam library once I actually hook up to the GPU.
Quite surprised at how easy it all goes together. I did chicken out and had the tech guys I purchased from do a quick mount and install the CPU and RAM onto the motherboard for me, free of charge.
In any case, I had been wanting to do this for a long time, and if it wasn't for the awesome OP, I probably would have settled on a prebuilt Best Buy computer or something.
So thank you!
Ah! EVGA 1080 FTW or EVGA 1080 FTW HYBRID. The difference is like 50 bucks. Was wondering if the water cooled (FTW HYBRID) would actually cool better when gaming in a room with AC.
T.Slothrop
Member
Making goal is VR and by spend accordingly I mean I will spend any amount.
metareferential
Member
Your friend is crazy xD
Good for you. Now get a good cooler and overclock that baby, you'll be putting together a great rig.
D
Deleted member 325805
Unconfirmed Member
Is this good RAM? I've never heard of the brand, it's about £30 cheaper than Corsair Vengeance. The timings are worse than Corsair's offering but I'm not sure how much of a difference that would make in gaming.
http://www.adata.com/us/xpg-dram/feature/301
DDR3-2133 PC3-17000 8GB x 2 CL10-12-12-30 1.65V Black (Red+Gold)
http://www.adata.com/us/xpg-dram/feature/301
DDR3-2133 PC3-17000 8GB x 2 CL10-12-12-30 1.65V Black (Red+Gold)
SystemShark
Member
Success! Hooked up a 22" Samsung 5000 series and now have a second monitor at 1080p.
What are some decent games I could try out to see how this new build runs?
I have Steam and am currently downloading Left 4 Dead 2 and from what I remember running on my old computer, I already know I'll see a marked increase.
What are some decent games I could try out to see how this new build runs?
I have Steam and am currently downloading Left 4 Dead 2 and from what I remember running on my old computer, I already know I'll see a marked increase.
Overclock is basically capped so temps don't mean anything.
Grats!So thanks to this thread I have purchased my new computer (first time building) since 2007!
Ended up with:
i5 7500
16 GB DDR4 ram
1T Barracuda HD
250GB Samsung SSD
EVGA GTX 1060 SC 3GB (wanted more but kept it within budget)
LG Bluray DVD writer optical drive (wanted the Bluray writer so bad, but the cost didn't justify the use; Harmy on Bluray instead of DVD DL
Went with the MasterBox 3 Lite case, and I do have to say with the 600W EVGA PSU, it's not a ton of room for all the bloody cables. In any case, it all went together very smoothly, though I'm not actually sure I've got the LED cables plugged in properly, not that I care.
My only hiccup is I was planning on running my existing 22" HP w2207 monitor, sadly at 1680 x 1050 resolution only. Quickly discovered that the GTX 1060 doesn't have a VGA port, only a DVI-D port. Minor misstep on my part. Thankfully the Gigabyte motherboard has one and I can now use a dual monitor setup as my cousin has a 21" Samsung I may be able to get off him to hook up to the GPU via HDMI.
Now I'm excited to dip into my Steam library once I actually hook up to the GPU.
Quite surprised at how easy it all goes together. I did chicken out and had the tech guys I purchased from do a quick mount and install the CPU and RAM onto the motherboard for me, free of charge.
In any case, I had been wanting to do this for a long time, and if it wasn't for the awesome OP, I probably would have settled on a prebuilt Best Buy computer or something.
So thank you!
Shoot
Hopefully AMD being competitive again will make Intel fix their IHS bullshit
ADATA is fine
Chinbo37
Member
Ok really hope someone can help me with this cause it is driving me crazy.
EDIT - I tried a couple extra things I note them below.
I built a new gaming PC a couple of months ago (i7-6770K, DDR4-3200, Asus 170I Pro Gaming MOBO. PSU (Corsair HX 850) and GPU (gtx 970) came from my old gaming comp. Build went well except I did have some trouble getting the RAM to run at the correct speed but it eventually sorted itself out.
(I just checked and it looks like this Corsair LPX DDR4 RAM is not explicity supported by my motherboard. Maybe that is why it always had trouble running at the correct speed. But would that be the cause of all these issues if I never had issues before?)
Well I havent used it all that much since building but it runs fine. Have played some games, browing etc. NO problems.
The other day I was trying to transfer some photos off my Samsung S7 and when I plugged in my phone via USB it wasnt showing up as a drive even when I select MTP or whatever. I tried tons of fixes and it wasnt working. I probably did something dumb but I downloaded some samsung drivers i found on a non official site. I tried installing them but they would get to like 90% and not go further. I checked my device manager found a device with a yellow exclamation and thought that was my phone not being recognized. I am pretty sure I did a couple of restarts during that time but not 100% sure.
Anyways I had to sleep and didnt turn the computer on for a week. Yesterday I was supposed to play some borderlands 2 with a friend and when I turned it on as Windows was loading i got a BSOD. I dont remember the exact description keep reading below.
Anyways it restarted and then Bam, another BSOD. and again and again. BSOD each time. Sometimes with different descriptions. I googled some of the descriptions and they seemed to be related to driver issues. Ok I still have my Windows 10 USB which I used to build my system so I popped that in and booted to the USB, but as it goes to load - BSOD.
So i was pretty upset. I pulled out my SSD, tossed it in a USB enclosure, plugged it into my HTPC, copied all the data I needed off it, and did a quick format with Windows. Plugged it back in. Same, BSOD when booting from the SSD or the USB.
Ok so I pulled the SSD out again. I tried to run Samsung Magician to completely clean the drive i thought maybe there was still some info on there. I ended up not getting samsung magician working on my HTPC (coulndt get the USB boot to work properly which is required for samsung magician), so I ended up just doing a full format in Windows. I know, not good for a SSD but I was pretty tired and pissed.
So that worked all night and this morning I popped the drive back in, BSOD booting from the drive or from the USB.
I tried to make a new Windows 10 USB Boot drive with a different USB stick - BSOD.
I tried to completely disconnect my SSD and just boot from the USB - BSOD.
Then I pulled the GPU - BSOD
Then I tried playing with the RAM a bit. Pulled out the second stuck - BSOD.
THen I ran Memcheck86 with both sticks of Ram in - No errors. (this was teh first time i ever used Memcheck. I only did one pass. I did it again later with 3 passes, no errors).
I updated the BIOS to the lastest version - Still BSOD.
Then I tried to with just 1 stick of ram in each slot trying all combos - Posts fine but BSOD after.
I dont understand what is happening. How can I get a BSOD when the SSD has been completely wiped? Windows isnt even on there anymore? And why cant i boot to my recovery USB?
Did I corrupt my MOBO or CPU? But if I did wouldnt I have some other issues and not a "Windows" based one (ie - not a BOSD issue)? How can I be getting BSOD errors when ther is no Windows installed? I can get into BIOS fine it seems to run correctly.
I am not sure what to do I searched online and most people with BSOD loops can get out of it with a recovery USB. I am stuck and really dont know what to do, never been stuck like this with a computer I built before.
Some (not all) of the BSOD errors I am getting:
- Driver Overran Stack Buffer
- IRQL Not less or Equal
- KMode Exception Not Handled
- System Thread Exception Not Handled
EDIT - I tried a couple extra things I note them below.
I built a new gaming PC a couple of months ago (i7-6770K, DDR4-3200, Asus 170I Pro Gaming MOBO. PSU (Corsair HX 850) and GPU (gtx 970) came from my old gaming comp. Build went well except I did have some trouble getting the RAM to run at the correct speed but it eventually sorted itself out.
(I just checked and it looks like this Corsair LPX DDR4 RAM is not explicity supported by my motherboard. Maybe that is why it always had trouble running at the correct speed. But would that be the cause of all these issues if I never had issues before?)
Well I havent used it all that much since building but it runs fine. Have played some games, browing etc. NO problems.
The other day I was trying to transfer some photos off my Samsung S7 and when I plugged in my phone via USB it wasnt showing up as a drive even when I select MTP or whatever. I tried tons of fixes and it wasnt working. I probably did something dumb but I downloaded some samsung drivers i found on a non official site. I tried installing them but they would get to like 90% and not go further. I checked my device manager found a device with a yellow exclamation and thought that was my phone not being recognized. I am pretty sure I did a couple of restarts during that time but not 100% sure.
Anyways I had to sleep and didnt turn the computer on for a week. Yesterday I was supposed to play some borderlands 2 with a friend and when I turned it on as Windows was loading i got a BSOD. I dont remember the exact description keep reading below.
Anyways it restarted and then Bam, another BSOD. and again and again. BSOD each time. Sometimes with different descriptions. I googled some of the descriptions and they seemed to be related to driver issues. Ok I still have my Windows 10 USB which I used to build my system so I popped that in and booted to the USB, but as it goes to load - BSOD.
So i was pretty upset. I pulled out my SSD, tossed it in a USB enclosure, plugged it into my HTPC, copied all the data I needed off it, and did a quick format with Windows. Plugged it back in. Same, BSOD when booting from the SSD or the USB.
Ok so I pulled the SSD out again. I tried to run Samsung Magician to completely clean the drive i thought maybe there was still some info on there. I ended up not getting samsung magician working on my HTPC (coulndt get the USB boot to work properly which is required for samsung magician), so I ended up just doing a full format in Windows. I know, not good for a SSD but I was pretty tired and pissed.
So that worked all night and this morning I popped the drive back in, BSOD booting from the drive or from the USB.
I tried to make a new Windows 10 USB Boot drive with a different USB stick - BSOD.
I tried to completely disconnect my SSD and just boot from the USB - BSOD.
Then I pulled the GPU - BSOD
Then I tried playing with the RAM a bit. Pulled out the second stuck - BSOD.
THen I ran Memcheck86 with both sticks of Ram in - No errors. (this was teh first time i ever used Memcheck. I only did one pass. I did it again later with 3 passes, no errors).
I updated the BIOS to the lastest version - Still BSOD.
Then I tried to with just 1 stick of ram in each slot trying all combos - Posts fine but BSOD after.
I dont understand what is happening. How can I get a BSOD when the SSD has been completely wiped? Windows isnt even on there anymore? And why cant i boot to my recovery USB?
Did I corrupt my MOBO or CPU? But if I did wouldnt I have some other issues and not a "Windows" based one (ie - not a BOSD issue)? How can I be getting BSOD errors when ther is no Windows installed? I can get into BIOS fine it seems to run correctly.
I am not sure what to do I searched online and most people with BSOD loops can get out of it with a recovery USB. I am stuck and really dont know what to do, never been stuck like this with a computer I built before.
Some (not all) of the BSOD errors I am getting:
- Driver Overran Stack Buffer
- IRQL Not less or Equal
- KMode Exception Not Handled
- System Thread Exception Not Handled
TVexperto
Member
I have Corsair GS800 Power Supply which I purchased December of 2012 with a 5-year warranty from the online shop. However, the company went insolvent and bankrupt so I can't make use of it anymore and Corsair has only a three-year warranty for that model on their website which sucks because they know this Power Supply has a lot of problems.
It makes an insanely loud noise when playing games, it is not the coilwhine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjC2YTUsNVg (This is not my video, but it is this buzzing noise except its louder and longer like it doesn't pause like it does in the video which is really annoying)
Edit: Here another video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2GRoZaibMU
So now I need a new Power Supply for my computer but I am wondering: Do I need even 800W? I would appreciate any help I can get. Thank you so much. Here is m build:
It makes an insanely loud noise when playing games, it is not the coilwhine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjC2YTUsNVg (This is not my video, but it is this buzzing noise except its louder and longer like it doesn't pause like it does in the video which is really annoying)
Edit: Here another video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2GRoZaibMU
So now I need a new Power Supply for my computer but I am wondering: Do I need even 800W? I would appreciate any help I can get. Thank you so much. Here is m build:
Chinbo37
Member
I run my asus 144 hz monitor with Dvi
D
Deleted member 325805
Unconfirmed Member
Hi, I got a kind of a dumb question. I built my new computer last week, got an i5-7600k and a GA-Z270x Gaming 7, on a friend's recommendation.
Yesterday another friend asked me why didn't I get the GA-H270M-D3H, which was about 40% of the price of the Z270. My first friend told me that my motherboard allows me to overclock the processor, which the H270 doesn't.
But looking up in the specifications for both I couldn't find where it says something like "this one can overclock and this one can't", just found a lot of comments around the net asserting this (of course maybe I didn't know what to look for).
My question would be, how would I know this just by looking at specs? Could it be that the H and Z sets were designed to do this and it was already known?
Thanks!
Yesterday another friend asked me why didn't I get the GA-H270M-D3H, which was about 40% of the price of the Z270. My first friend told me that my motherboard allows me to overclock the processor, which the H270 doesn't.
But looking up in the specifications for both I couldn't find where it says something like "this one can overclock and this one can't", just found a lot of comments around the net asserting this (of course maybe I didn't know what to look for).
My question would be, how would I know this just by looking at specs? Could it be that the H and Z sets were designed to do this and it was already known?
Thanks!
RamaTheVoice
Member
Just popped in my 6700K!
It's nice, but it may be running a little warm? Cooler's an AIO but the tubes are too short to place the radiator and fans in the front of the case as an intake so I'm using it as an exhaust in the back with two 140mm fans in the front, and load temps at stock clocks are in the 60s. Should I be worried?
E: idle temps are in the high 20s-low 30s.
It's nice, but it may be running a little warm? Cooler's an AIO but the tubes are too short to place the radiator and fans in the front of the case as an intake so I'm using it as an exhaust in the back with two 140mm fans in the front, and load temps at stock clocks are in the 60s. Should I be worried?
E: idle temps are in the high 20s-low 30s.
Bloodember
Member
Here's a guide on the Differences. The Z boards are the only boards that you can overclock officially on. board differences
What are you doing when it's under load? What do you have the AIO software set too? What is the AIO? For a low end AIO 60C is normal under heavy load. Didn't see your edit, you'd idle temps are good.
RamaTheVoice
Member
RealBench stress test and Watch Dogs 2. AIO is CM Nepton 140XL, so not low end but not crazy high. Software is Gigabyte SIV (no dedicated software for this AIO it seems), pump at full speed and fans on a curve. Changing fan speed doesn't seem to affect temps at all.
Here is a dumb question.
I overclocked my EVGA 1070 SC for the first time with MSI Afterburner using a few different guides. I have installed the thermal mod and applied the bios update.
I ended up getting +110 on core clock and +375 on memory clock. But do I need to let the core voltage to be +100 and power limit 112 when running the overclock? Also should I still keep 92c for the temp limit?
Haven't ran longer tests yet, but 2 rounds in Valley went through without problems.
I overclocked my EVGA 1070 SC for the first time with MSI Afterburner using a few different guides. I have installed the thermal mod and applied the bios update.
I ended up getting +110 on core clock and +375 on memory clock. But do I need to let the core voltage to be +100 and power limit 112 when running the overclock? Also should I still keep 92c for the temp limit?
Haven't ran longer tests yet, but 2 rounds in Valley went through without problems.
Bloodember
Member
Looking at reviews your temps are right in line with what they where getting.
Hey guys I'd like a bit of help/guidance for a build. My partner and I want to put a work desk in our living area, so he has a dedicated place to do school work. We have an HTPC that's pretty beefy, but would like to build a compact but capable Mini-ITX PC for the desk. I'm not super confident in my ability to make sure I'm picking parts that are compatible with a M-ITX case, so am looking for some help. Here's some info
PC Purpose: Mainly internet & adobe suite. He has a 2013 Macbook Air right now, which can really bog down when handling Adobe programs, so making sure that it's at least more capable than he has right now is most important. It mayyyy be used for some light gaming, so if an RX 470/480 can fit in there, then great. Also, the mobo would need to be WIFI compatible, I don't want to run ethernet to where the PC will be located.
Budget: Ideally not more than $800. If the video card is the deciding factor on budget, I can keep that in mind and decide later.
As I said, I'd like it to be M-ITX, something can can have a relatyivdly low profile under the desk. Any help with a build would be awesome!
PC Purpose: Mainly internet & adobe suite. He has a 2013 Macbook Air right now, which can really bog down when handling Adobe programs, so making sure that it's at least more capable than he has right now is most important. It mayyyy be used for some light gaming, so if an RX 470/480 can fit in there, then great. Also, the mobo would need to be WIFI compatible, I don't want to run ethernet to where the PC will be located.
Budget: Ideally not more than $800. If the video card is the deciding factor on budget, I can keep that in mind and decide later.
As I said, I'd like it to be M-ITX, something can can have a relatyivdly low profile under the desk. Any help with a build would be awesome!
Question for the compy minded!
So my core i7 920 has been chugging along for the last 8 years and I've started overclocking the processor to get a little more life out of it. The motherboard is also still running on PCI Express 2.0
What are my limitations looking at for a graphics card upgrade?
So my core i7 920 has been chugging along for the last 8 years and I've started overclocking the processor to get a little more life out of it. The motherboard is also still running on PCI Express 2.0
What are my limitations looking at for a graphics card upgrade?
RamaTheVoice
Member
Since it came out in 2014 I mostly saw reviews with 4XXX CPUs so I wasn't sure, but I'll take your word for it
Thinking of switching to air now ^^
sechsterangriff
Member
So I like to do a lot of photo editing and I was planing to buy a 10-bit monitor for my new build. Little did I know that I would need a workstation graphics card (Quadro or FirePro) in order for Adobe Photoshop output at that bit depth.
I don't mind finding a "cheapish" Quadro card but since I plan to do a lot more than photo editing with this build I was wondering if it could live with a modern GeForce card on the same system. It would be great if they could work on the same OS installation but honestly I don't even mind if it has to be a dual boot compromise.
Has anyone tried this before?
I don't mind finding a "cheapish" Quadro card but since I plan to do a lot more than photo editing with this build I was wondering if it could live with a modern GeForce card on the same system. It would be great if they could work on the same OS installation but honestly I don't even mind if it has to be a dual boot compromise.
Has anyone tried this before?
Übermatik;232311479 said:
Welp I've decided to put the Ryzen build on hold -- can't wait any longer lol. Ordered a 7700k. Really unfortunate that there are no motherboards for Ryzen, and coffee lake is supposedly coming end of this year. Shitty stop gap to be in. Wanted more cores for productivity out of games. Hope this CPU last me a good 3-4 years.
The positive, well HUGE positive for me anyway, with the 7700k is running CEMU -- was not sure how that was going to pan out with Ryzen.
Ah man, that's a shame! I'm persisting with mine, as the 1700 is way too good a value to pass up right now. Think I'm gonna be going for the Asrock Pro4 board - it's cheap yet well built, supports 3200Mhz memory and has all the features I'll need right now - plus no dodgy BIOS issues yet.
So guys I finally bought a GTX 1080 today which I picked up from this guy selling on ebay...had to travel for a few hours. I come back home excited to try this thing and shit...the card's too fat !
My case can fit even a 12 inch monster but this thing is a 3 slot card and the HDD bay is just a wee bit too big to get in the way. Basically if the HDD bay was even 2mm lower the card would've fit in perfectly but now I'm left with either:
1) Buying a new case, which I don't mind as I need a new case but I really can't be arsed with tearing apart my PC and spending several hours to install them on the new case. Plus this is one bit of PC building that I've never ever done ! PLus I'd like to save money for now.
2) Take of the HDD cage, the problem is the two rivets on the top of the HDD cage, I can't pop them with a drill because the drillable section is on the above portion of the cage (the side facing optical bay)and it's impossible for me to get the drill there. I can try taking them out using a screwdriver and hammer but the rivet is snuggled inside a small concave bit making it difficult for the screwdriver to fit in. Beside once I take the HDD cage off where the hell do I put my HDD? The disk drive bay is too wide for my HDD to fit in.
3) Cut the HDD bay off, but this again requires me to take the cage out and I don't have the tools to cut it.
Basically I'm fucked and need to pay a lot more money right? To get a new case and install components ?
My case can fit even a 12 inch monster but this thing is a 3 slot card and the HDD bay is just a wee bit too big to get in the way. Basically if the HDD bay was even 2mm lower the card would've fit in perfectly but now I'm left with either:
1) Buying a new case, which I don't mind as I need a new case but I really can't be arsed with tearing apart my PC and spending several hours to install them on the new case. Plus this is one bit of PC building that I've never ever done ! PLus I'd like to save money for now.
2) Take of the HDD cage, the problem is the two rivets on the top of the HDD cage, I can't pop them with a drill because the drillable section is on the above portion of the cage (the side facing optical bay)and it's impossible for me to get the drill there. I can try taking them out using a screwdriver and hammer but the rivet is snuggled inside a small concave bit making it difficult for the screwdriver to fit in. Beside once I take the HDD cage off where the hell do I put my HDD? The disk drive bay is too wide for my HDD to fit in.
3) Cut the HDD bay off, but this again requires me to take the cage out and I don't have the tools to cut it.
Basically I'm fucked and need to pay a lot more money right? To get a new case and install components ?
Frankfurter
Member
500W is just fine for this system, unless you plan to add a second GPU at a later date.
Bloodember
Member
Just buy a $30-50 case and move all your components over. It's not that hard and will only take an hour if that.
Cable management and all is making me dread this.
My PSU is especially fixed in a weird place, at the bottom and I can't seem to find what is keeping it fixed.