Depends on how old it is (weeks/months/close to a year)...the generational drop in price isn't as dramatic as with iOS devices, but you'll still save some decent money because it's a very expensive notebook to begin with.
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Mac Hardware and Software |OT| - All things Macintosh
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Depends on how old it is (weeks/months/close to a year)...the generational drop in price isn't as dramatic as with iOS devices, but you'll still save some decent money because it's a very expensive notebook to begin with.
Go crazy and simply take the bottom case off, lay it flat on the back of the display and turn the machine on. Don't electrocute yourself of course by touching the logic!
- If the fans don't do anything at all, Then it's probably a dead logic.
- If the fans kick in for a few seconds and turn off, It's probably a dead logic buuut it could be something very specific that's stopping it from booting.
- By that I mean, You would have to try and isolate which part is actually stopping the machine from turning on.
- It could be faulty ram as well, try 1 stick in each slot and attempt to turn it on.
And so on. Don't die.
It's close to a year old, I got it when they first were released. If all Apple does is release a new version with Haswell then I could care less, I will keep mine. What worries me is if they do something more dramatic that I have not yet anticipated.
Lol!
Anyway it's an old non-unibody MacBook Pro so would have to involve removing top case. Yeah I wouldn't know what not to touch (although I have opened it up a lot to change out the hd).
It's probably worth a look inside before I get set in a new mac, however.
Anyone with advice on syncing an iPhone to a new mac that has a migrated iTunes library? Will it just work off the back considering the computer would be considered different?
Nobody's expecting more than Haswell & a slightly better GPU, stick with it.
The Wanderer
Banned
Just bought an iMac today. The sales guy tried vainly do get me to buy an AppleCare package, 2 extra years at around 260 dollars. Yay or nay? I have 7 days to decide.
You should have a full year to decide on apple care. Also you can buy it from anywhere, it's a code you enter into your computer
Crazymoogle
Member
Just ask away...
It's just that I have a whole lot of devices on my WiFi and can that make the internet (signal) slower or more inconsistent? And my D-Link have two 2GHz and one 5GHz - how can I enable the 5GHz and how do I make some of my devices use it? Will it make the Internet faster even?
Crazymoogle
Member
More devices transmitting at a given frequency can cause problems, sure. In practice it really depends on the type and number of devices, though. Also, things like Cordless phones are usually 2.4GHz and can crowd the spectrum.
That being said it really depends on the number of transmitting devices. I can count about a dozen devices in my home that are all wirelessly connected to the router but it's pretty rare for more than 3 to be actively transferring data at one time.
Your router software lets you define wireless networks. Usually 1 for B/G/N (2.4GHz) and 1 for A/N (5GHz). More powerful routers let you do 2+2 guest networks whileas cheaper routers may only let you have a single network going at once.
Each one you setup has its own SSID that you make up. ie: I have "crazymoogle.g" and "crazymoogle.n" which are seperate wireless networks on the same router. All of my .G or older .N devices (PS3, 360, iPad1, DSi, etc) are told to use the first one whereas newer, .n 5GHz devices (iPhone 5, Macbook) are told to connect to the latter.
Usually you access your router software via a special network address (ie: 192.168.0.1) or special domain (ie: routerlogin.net). You'd have to look up the details for your own.
It depends what you use it for. .N is definitely faster for file transfer purposes, but the real benefit is that the 5GHz band just isn't as crowded. At a glance in my apartment I see maybe 20 wireless networks, and virtually every one is 2.4GHz. It just travels well, so all of my devices and various neighbors devices are inevitably going to crosstalk.
The downside of 5GHz is that as frequency goes up, range goes down. So a 5GHz signal is going to have a tougher time with walls and distance. But since that means you have to deal with less from your neighbours (and from older devices) there's little reason to not go with 5GHz if you have devices that support it. Just hopefully you have a dualmode router that can keep both 2.4 and 5.0 running.
Any idea on what one of the first Sandy Bridge MBP 13s go for?
MacBook Pro 13"
i7 2.7 GHz Dual Core (Fastest option at the time.)
500 GB HD (Original)
16 GB (Corsair Mac Memory)
Has one more year of Apple Care left.
Getting a 15" rMBP from work. Since i'm not going to school now, I don't have a need for my current one aside from work. Though that point is moot since work is buying me one to use for work. I plan to buy a new MBP in the fall at the start of the semester. When all the back to school deals happen.
MacBook Pro 13"
i7 2.7 GHz Dual Core (Fastest option at the time.)
500 GB HD (Original)
16 GB (Corsair Mac Memory)
Has one more year of Apple Care left.
Getting a 15" rMBP from work. Since i'm not going to school now, I don't have a need for my current one aside from work. Though that point is moot since work is buying me one to use for work. I plan to buy a new MBP in the fall at the start of the semester. When all the back to school deals happen.
Gentlemen. I am starting to lose my mind. My 2010 15" MBP reboots itself like a dozen times a day now. It used to only happen every other day. So needless to say, its starting to freak me out.
Been to the apple store 3 times and they want me to leave it with them and pay the service fee to fix anything wrong with it which is like $350. I want to figure it out so I can possibly fix it myself.
I've installed a new SSD and reinstalled OS - that hasn't fixed it.
I ran this one mac memtest app all night long and no red flags came up.
All that seems to stand out to me on these crash reports is Nvidia. Does it have something to do with my graphics card?
Could this be my problem? http://support.apple.com/kb/TS4088?viewlocale=en_US
Been to the apple store 3 times and they want me to leave it with them and pay the service fee to fix anything wrong with it which is like $350. I want to figure it out so I can possibly fix it myself.
I've installed a new SSD and reinstalled OS - that hasn't fixed it.
I ran this one mac memtest app all night long and no red flags came up.
All that seems to stand out to me on these crash reports is Nvidia. Does it have something to do with my graphics card?
Could this be my problem? http://support.apple.com/kb/TS4088?viewlocale=en_US
The Chef, I posted a reply to you a few days ago saying it was pretty much going to be the logic board due to the nvidia kernel panics.
It's simply a GPU error and the logic board will need to be replaced.
Since it's a 15" mid 2010 machine, This is covered under warranty as long as the follow is available.
The machine was purchased within the past 3 years.
It fails the video service test - which is solely designed for this issue. This can be run at an apple service centre. It's an option within AST after AST has been run.
If it's outside of the 3 years but does fail the VST, You need to find out how many months it's outside of the warranty. If you're lucky, Apple might still cover it but that requires you to call up Apple and get a CS code placed against the machine.
It's simply a GPU error and the logic board will need to be replaced.
Since it's a 15" mid 2010 machine, This is covered under warranty as long as the follow is available.
The machine was purchased within the past 3 years.
It fails the video service test - which is solely designed for this issue. This can be run at an apple service centre. It's an option within AST after AST has been run.
If it's outside of the 3 years but does fail the VST, You need to find out how many months it's outside of the warranty. If you're lucky, Apple might still cover it but that requires you to call up Apple and get a CS code placed against the machine.
Thanks Cookie. Sorry I missed your first post!
Looks like I'll take to Apple this week.
Dry microfiber cloth. Same thing you would use to clean a pair of glasses.
And stop touching your screen.
No liquids? Also, I end up touching the screen to get to the USB hubs in back.
silentspork
Member
I'm probably going to get yelled at but this stuff has always worked great for me (on my Macbook Pro):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000636OEM/?tag=neogaf0e-20
You can damp the microfiber cloth if you want, just water.
Are you going to be buying old/refurbed then? Changes are there will be new notebooks before then, so that pick will be old.
Does anyone know what happens if I take a hard drive from one mac and put it into another? For example from a MacBook Pro and into an iMac or from a non-unibody macbook into a modern one?
Will it boot? Would you need to reinstall the os? Can this be done without messing up the test of the data?
Will it boot? Would you need to reinstall the os? Can this be done without messing up the test of the data?
Probably not boot.
But really, all the drivers for all macs are a single standard install? And it just checks on boot? If that's the case, my old MacBook Pro (non-unibody) died, I'm assuming logic board. It was running mountain lion, but if I can easily just stick it in a new mac and nothing skips a beat... That might be the way to go.
I imagine some stuff like iTunes will ask to be reauthorised, but time machine goes by HD uuid, right?
Any more info on this kind of swap?
Edit: On second thought, this shouldn't work right? I installed mountain lion at 10.8.0. Obviously, I've kept up with the updates, but do all the graphics drivers and stufffor new macs get installed with updates even though I don't have that mac?
Even more unlikely is this swap working with any new MacBook next week if they are different again.
For clarity my old MacBook Pro is a core 2 duo running mountain lion 10.8.3 and it died last week. I assume the HD is intact and it's a new 1tb SSHD hybrid so would be nice to use that again. I guess I could also format it in a new mac and transfer data from time machine, but not knowing if my time machine dada is intact would have me hesitant.
It includes everything. Just will take a little longer on first boot as it re-sets everything up. Seriously. The hard drive in my machine right now has gone from a 2008 15" Pro into a 2006 13" into a 15" 2009 Pro. Some stuff asks for a reauth, but mostly it all just works. I've also taken a drive from an iMac and put it into a MacBook, again with no issues. Time Machine even works fine. THe last time I did it it said that you will no longer be able to use Time Machine on the other machine, but if you plug it back into the other one, it'll just say you'll no longer be able to use Time Machine on the other machine
This stuff is pretty dummy proof. I love it. Windows would shit the bed.If you're going to install an old HD into say a brand new macbook or iMac, You could run into issues even if you're on 10.8.3 or 10.8.4.
See, Apple in their wise wisdom decided to make each new machine slightly different, They require their own firmware/OS to actually boot from. So a retina mountain lion will install onto an 2012 iMac but they won't work on a mac mini and so on.
The quickest option would simply to throw the old HDD Into an external enclosure and then see if you can boot from it by holding option. If you get the prohibited sign then you're out of luck.
See, Apple in their wise wisdom decided to make each new machine slightly different, They require their own firmware/OS to actually boot from. So a retina mountain lion will install onto an 2012 iMac but they won't work on a mac mini and so on.
The quickest option would simply to throw the old HDD Into an external enclosure and then see if you can boot from it by holding option. If you get the prohibited sign then you're out of luck.
Interesting. Thanks for the input. Not sure what I should do. Basically old core2duo mountain lion MBP died. Has a swanky 1tb sshd.
Do I do the official thing and get an iMac (maybe with fusion) and do a user migrate? Keeping user cruft but discarding computer cruft.
Or stick with a MBP, but do some hardware jiggering?
I looked into hardware jiggering for iMac and air dryers and reglueing? Yeah, no thanks. It would probably mean I'd have to pay for any ram upgrades from apple ...
Any opinions about 640m vs 650m? I mostly use aperture. I don't game on my computer but that's probably more because of my computer rather than that I don't. If I had a decent machine I might be curious enough to try.
Do I do the official thing and get an iMac (maybe with fusion) and do a user migrate? Keeping user cruft but discarding computer cruft.
Or stick with a MBP, but do some hardware jiggering?
I looked into hardware jiggering for iMac and air dryers and reglueing? Yeah, no thanks. It would probably mean I'd have to pay for any ram upgrades from apple ...
Any opinions about 640m vs 650m? I mostly use aperture. I don't game on my computer but that's probably more because of my computer rather than that I don't. If I had a decent machine I might be curious enough to try.
I certainly wouldn't suggest pulling apart the iMac screens, It's a royal pain in the ass even though it's better than the previous model.
You're best option is honestly to spend $20 or so on a 2.5" external usb caddy and throw your original HDD in that. Attempt to boot off it on your new rig, if no go, then just simply migrate the data from it like you normally would.
You're best option is honestly to spend $20 or so on a 2.5" external usb caddy and throw your original HDD in that. Attempt to boot off it on your new rig, if no go, then just simply migrate the data from it like you normally would.
Thanks. Thing is whether I can boot my old drive will determine which rig I get.
I have a week or so to think about what setup I want. Been operati. Off an old MBP with a Cinema Display (really old matte one). Maybe it's time for a change and get an iMac
I thought they would be significantly cheaper for the same power, but the low end MBP 15" actually has an i7 and better graphics than low end iMac. Not to mention the new iMacs all have 2.5" drives (in the 21.5") limiting the storage.
I know I can get external storage either rig, but for some reason since an iMac is a more permant fixture I'd probably more likely leave them plugged in. Decisions, decisions.
You mean added to the base model for free?
You can order fusion drive on any iMac I believe.
Yeah I know they seem kinda expensive, but I'm out of a computer at the moment. The most I could probably wait is weeks.
I always wanted toget an iMac as my next computer because it wouldn't make my MacBook Pro completely redundant and would complement it. Also I was assuming that you'd get more power for your buck, being desktop components. One in particular was desktop storage space.
However, since my MBP actually died, I need a new primary computer. I may actually miss being slightly mobile (taking on trips and just moving around the house). Also, it appears the iMacs are no cheaper than MBPs, since they actually use laptop components for the 21.5".
I top of that, they are even less upgradable than the laptops! So I don't know any more.
Im honestly expecting TB display, laptop lineup, and (hopefully) iPad mini spec. For hardware.
I hate that this thread is in OT Community now, not many people will look here for it.
Seems like someone could start a WWDC thread .. or is there one? *runs off to check*
The Real Abed
Perma-Junior
Community forum claims another victim. R.I.P. Mac thread.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
I'm hoping someone will see this!
My wife got an email fom her mother with a link. Of course, she clicked it. How at risk is she and what can we do? I'm not familiar with how to keep Macs clean.
My wife got an email fom her mother with a link. Of course, she clicked it. How at risk is she and what can we do? I'm not familiar with how to keep Macs clean.
The Real Abed
Perma-Junior
The only way it could do anything to your Mac is if A) the emailer actually knew she was using a Mac and B) made the link be to a ZIP or DMG with an installer in it that the then C) actually went out of her way to enter her password and install it blindly without checking what it was first. It's called a Trojan and requires the end user to let it in the front door willingly. There are no viruses. And most Trojans come from fake Flash installers or Java exploits.I'm hoping someone will see this!
My wife got an email fom her mother with a link. Of course, she clicked it. How at risk is she and what can we do? I'm not familiar with how to keep Macs clean.
Just teach her one simple thing. If she does not know who gave her the installer or she didn't ask for it and it comes up, ignore it and delete it. If she is trying to update a program like Flash, always go to Adobe directly first and download the installer and ignore any prompts that ask you to update Flash if you're unsure.
Failing that, just have her never enter her password without asking you to make sure it's legit first.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Awesome - thanks for the complete response. I passed the info on to her and she said she didn't download or install anything. We are good.
I should spend more time understanding the Mac architecture a bit better since she's a Mac user and I've been a PC user for all of my life. Things to learn I guess!
Thanks again!
I should spend more time understanding the Mac architecture a bit better since she's a Mac user and I've been a PC user for all of my life. Things to learn I guess!
Thanks again!
On Mac, you are supposed to mount the .dmg file that you downloaded and drag the application file (which is in the mounted image) to the Applications folder (many software opens a window that shows the application icon and a shortcut to the Applications folder when you mount, making the dragging process even easier). After dragging, unmount the image by right-clicking the image icon in the desktop or in Finder, under the "devices" tab. To open the application you just installed, just bring up the launchpad or the applications folder in Finder. You can also drag the desired application to the dock if you want a shortcut to it in there, both from the launchpad and the Applications folder.
Aha, thanks. I was fine with putting everything into my dock and organising that, but it was just the mounted image stuck in devices and on my desktop which the issue. I've right click>removed from my devices tab and it looks good
.While I'm here, any absolutely recommended software/apps for a new Mac user?
I know there is a rumour that iMacs will be updated with haswell soon, but what are the likelihood of this? On the one hand I don't want to sit waiting for a possible non-update invisible waiting game but neither do I want to miss out on a 'free' upgrade if t happens in a couple weeks.
I am considering an iMac soon, and probably only afford lowest end with maybe one upgrade (probably fusion drive). Would an iMac even benefit from haswell processors? Aren't most of the improvements for on board graphics and power consumption?
Do I need to be concerned with 802.11ac on an iMac so much?
I am considering an iMac soon, and probably only afford lowest end with maybe one upgrade (probably fusion drive). Would an iMac even benefit from haswell processors? Aren't most of the improvements for on board graphics and power consumption?
Do I need to be concerned with 802.11ac on an iMac so much?
The Real Abed
Perma-Junior
MacRumors says June/July because supplies are dwindling.
Yeah I read the rumour. Can much stock be taken into that?
I suppose it's one sign. They've pointed out that the analyst has a good record too. Argh I hate the invisible waiting game.
peteykirch
Member
So, outside of extended battery life, what is the main difference between the old Mac Book Air and the one they just announced?
Haswell processor that seems to offer a modest speed bump. The improved battery life was the biggest improvement.