Video-specific cameras. Not DSLRs....Im using it specifically for video as well. Im not understanding your frustration here.
I'm happy for people to make their items look worse, keeps the prices lower.Why can't Ebay sellers take a minute so blow the dust off their lenses before they take pictures of them to sell them?
Ok, fine, but they should at least accurately mark how fucked the thing is. Earlier I saw a posting for a lens that was EX+++ mint and I look at the pics and it's scuffed to fuck, the back part looks like shit, I think the connector piece looked cracked in an area, chip in the barrel and god knows what else. I was like no, that's not mint.I'm happy for people to make their items look worse, keeps the prices lower.
Quick question.
Just got a new lens for my Canon 70D. After connecting it I get the message "Ensure a lens is attached. Press START/STOP button to activate movie shooting"
I contacted Adorama and they basically were like "OK, you can return it and we'll send you another one." I ask "So this means it defective?" she says "Well, it could be"
Any ideas?
Is it a canon lens?
Also, all fluid dampened tripod heads are going to be narrow to accept video cameras. You need to work a little to get it to accept a DSLR.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0170B8CS8/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Its a Rokinon lens.
Also thanks for that Amazon link.
That is normal there is no chip in there to tell the camera what the lens is.
Ouch....what kind of strap were you using? I usually still hold my camera by the grip if it's on my neck strap. If the lens is that cheap you might as well just get a spare.Welp... was out on a shoot today and while walking around with my N8008, the strap slipped off and dropped lens facing first to the ground, killing my Tokina AT-X 28-85mm in the process.
The focal length ring gets stuck at around 50mm and it takes a crapton of force to send it on either direction but everything else seems to work, I don't see any cracks in the glass or any image issues.
The lens itself cost me $40-ish when I got it a few months back, I kinda wonder how much it would cost to get it fixed or if I should just buy a replacement.
The N8008 is fine I think... hopefully. I'm gonna be sending the roll of film out tomorrow and see if it didn't get damaged.
Ouch....what kind of strap were you using? I usually still hold my camera by the grip if it's on my neck strap. If the lens is that cheap you might as well just get a spare.
You really can't rush secure that strap. If it's the same one that came with my 7100 you have to loop it in a certain way, but it's pretty secure on my camera, granted I've never taken the damn thing off just so I wouldn't have to put it back on again. I had the same thing happen to me almost with my cheaper camera. Strap came undone and luckily I was just holding the camera in my hand. I think if I had to have both cameras on me I'd probably just use two black rapid straps.The stock Nikon strap that came with my D3200.
I was using 2 cameras at once actually, my D3200 on a sling and the N8008 on the strap. You know how you have to wrap the strap and secure it using that black plastic thing? I'm guessing that when I was letting go of my N8008, that plastic was already out of place and the thing just dropped to the ground.
I'm still searching or another copy or maybe something else that has the same focal length but thinking about it, I have primes in 28, 50 and 85 so I'm not even sure if a replacement is necessary for the time being. That said, if I find something good, I'll probably pick it up.
So I got some great advice for my camera shopping (In the 400 USD range)
I was looking at the compact point and shoot cameras, but I think I might want a DSLR.
I've been doing my research and I was looking at the Pentax K50.
I see that it's a recommended camera. Should I just go for this one or are there any disadvantages for someone who's noob level?
You really can't rush secure that strap. If it's the same one that came with my 7100 you have to loop it in a certain way, but it's pretty secure on my camera, granted I've never taken the damn thing off just so I wouldn't have to put it back on again. I had the same thing happen to me almost with my cheaper camera. Strap came undone and luckily I was just holding the camera in my hand. I think if I had to have both cameras on me I'd probably just use two black rapid straps.
Noticed this today:
look at the aperture ring and the aperture at the bottom of the screenNot sure if bug or feature lol.f/16-2 are slightly offset.
The name of that lens sounds hilarious. What are the specs on it?Yeah, not sure how exactly how I secured that strap but needless to say, I'm not using it at all anymore.
Anyway, I've already found a replacement lens for it.
The Vivitar "Stovepipe" lol.
Should be here next week.
It is actually a really good camera for a beginner as it has a bunch more features and controls than most entry level DSLR cameras. It is generally harder to find pentax gear in local shops I would say is the only real downside, but if you order all your gear online then it is of no real consequence.
Do you have a general idea of what you want to take photos of though? A point and shoot or a mirrorless camera may be better suited to what you want to do.
The name of that lens sounds hilarious. What are the specs on it?
Man, you get some really interesting lenses. Given the crop factor that's like a 42 - 135mm, wow.It's a Vivitar Series 1 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
It's called the "stovepipe" coz of this:
The zoom is a push/pull mechanism then combine that with the wide opening, the lens looks like a stovepipe once fully extended lol.
The more awesome thing is that this one of the few legendary Series 1 lenses from Vivitar so I had to snap it up almost immediately.
It's a Vivitar Series 1 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
It's called the "stovepipe" coz of this:
The zoom is a push/pull mechanism then combine that with the wide opening, the lens looks like a stovepipe once fully extended lol.
The more awesome thing is that this one of the few legendary Series 1 lenses from Vivitar so I had to snap it up almost immediately.
Don't know completely yet. As of now I'm just trying to take nicer pictures of dead animals I see when I'm out riding my bike.
I was looking for a camera that I could learn and grow with and see where I want to go with photography. I do want to learn how to use camera gear though.
Already up to date. I fixed it somehow and then caused it again so it might be a camera setting I messed with.maybe update the firmware on the lens.
It's a Vivitar Series 1 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5[ ... ]
The more awesome thing is that this one of the few legendary Series 1 lenses from Vivitar so I had to snap it up almost immediately.
Nikon DL 24-85
Sensor: 1 inch BSI CMOS sensor
Lens: 24-85mm f/1.8-2.8
Size: 105.4 x 61.5 x 50.0 mm
Weight: 350g
Nikon DL 18-50
Sensor: 1 inch BSI CMOS sensor
Lens: 18-50mm f/1.8-2.8
Size: 105.5 x 62.5 x 56.6 mm
Weight: 350g
Nikon DL 24-500
Sensor: 1 inch BSI CMOS sensor
Lens: 24-500mm f2.8-5.6
Size: 122.5 x 89.9 x 139.4 mm
Weight: 830g
Just picked up a Sony a6000 with 50mm and 55-210mm lenses. Was heavily debating originally to get the Canon Rebel t6i, but Sony beats that. Now I am somewhat considering what if I got the Canon EOS 70D instead (yes I know the 80D was just announced). Thoughts on Sony a6000 vs Canon EOS 70D?
I came from using Canon, but almost everything I have seen and read about the a6000 has been positive. Mainly picked up the camera to capture moments with my dog at first, but will expand from there. Tons to learn about the settings and stuff, but excited to explore.
Going to be a bit tight with your widest at 50mm no?
Quick question.
Just got a new lens for my Canon 70D. After connecting it I get the message "Ensure a lens is attached. Press START/STOP button to activate movie shooting"
I contacted Adorama and they basically were like "OK, you can return it and we'll send you another one." I ask "So this means it defective?" she says "Well, it could be"
Any ideas?
Man, you get some really interesting lenses. Given the crop factor that's like a 42 - 135mm, wow.
I love the notation on the barrels of these old lenses. They have so much character.
I've got the Series 1 70-210 f/2.8-4 macro. Pretty decent, if heavy. The backwards focus ring (from the Nikon norm) always throws me.
Nice, reading the chart I'm assuming yours is a Komine?
I'm actually glad I did some extensive research on them, as I'm gonna start looking for other Series 1 lenses from them lol.
Yes, the Komine.
I only looked the Vivitar up after I got it-- it was in a lot with two other AI-S lenses that I was really interested in-- the Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 and the (still-produced!!) 28mm f/2.8.
New to this thread and photography in general. Was inspired by a trip to Big Bear last weekend and have been reading and researching all week.
I'm currently leaning towards the Fuji X series for my first non-iPhone camera. Fuji appeals to me based on what I've heard but should I consider Sony? For Fuji it seems like the X-T10 might be my best option to start out with. I feel like I will want weather proofing down the line (or even right away) but don't know if it's worth the extra cost as a total beginner and if I don't have a true plan yet. From what I've seen I think I want to try to get into landscape photography the most but if they release the X-T2 next year that might be the best time to upgrade to weatherproofing.
Really I'm hoping this camera will be my excuse to go on an epic road trip and possibly even live abroad for a year or something.
New to this thread and photography in general. Was inspired by a trip to Big Bear last weekend and have been reading and researching all week.
I'm currently leaning towards the Fuji X series for my first non-iPhone camera. Fuji appeals to me based on what I've heard but should I consider Sony? For Fuji it seems like the X-T10 might be my best option to start out with. I feel like I will want weather proofing down the line (or even right away) but don't know if it's worth the extra cost as a total beginner and if I don't have a true plan yet. From what I've seen I think I want to try to get into landscape photography the most but if they release the X-T2 next year that might be the best time to upgrade to weatherproofing.
Really I'm hoping this camera will be my excuse to go on an epic road trip and possibly even live abroad for a year or something.
Get the X-T1 + 35mm F2 WR if you want to go full weather proof.
X-T10 + 35 F2 WR if you want to save a few bucks.
Yeah the one thing is that even With the X-T10 I feel like I might end up with mostly WR lenses but that is still somewhat useful I suppose. The tough decision now is which lenses to get. I know the 18-55 is supposed to be really solid but I am considering just a 16 1.4 WR and 35 F2 WR combo to start. The 10-24 might be a better choice than the 16 since I'm interested in landscape but the 16 looks to be the best for astrophotography which I wanna try. Too many choices
Mirrorless auto focus isn't great with quickly moving subjects. Oh yeah kit lenses are rarely great with how they handle. They come with the camera for a reason.
Well that makes sense. Have you seen the price tag on that thing. The auto focus is just a complaint I've seen associated with mirrorless cameras.Except for the A7R2.
On mobile so too lazy to cut everything out.Heh, it's mostly luck and a good amount of research that leads me to interesting lenses.
My 50mm Nikon Series E has had an excellent reputation for being a fantastic lens for the money, but people avoid it because its a "consumer grade" lens because of the Series E name.
The 85mm Opteka was pure dumb luck, if my friend didn't give me hers, I wouldn't have one at all.
The Promaster 19-35mm was a blind purchase, I just wanted a proper 28-42mm lens lol. But I don't even really use it anymore, it's just sitting on my desk now. Same thing goes for my Sigma 75-250mm... I'd love to use it, but it's sooo fncking heavy it's almost a core to use lol.
I honestly wouldn't have picked up this Vivitar since I've got primes I could use to cover the focal length, not to mention that I have feet lol, but after doing my research, the price and condition was such a bargain, it would've been a crime to not pick it up, especially once you knew how great it was.
The Sigma I'm talking about above has the same notation on the barrel and honestly, I don't know how to read them lol. I see the focal length, but those curvy lines? Yeah, idk what they mean haha.
Nice, reading the chart I'm assuming yours is a Komine?
I'm actually glad I did some extensive research on them, as I'm gonna start looking for other Series 1 lenses from them lol.
On mobile so too lazy to cut everything out.
Those curvy lines show what would be in focus at what focal length. So as you extend it, it isn't going to be able to focus as closely, and the curves are there to compensate for that so that the focus markers "stay" accurate. Manual lenses gave a lot of tricks like these -- for example, a lot of times you'll see a pattern like:
. /
16 8 4 1.8 4 8 16
Just below the focus distance marker-- that's saying that at f4, all of the distances whose markers fall in between the 4's will be in focus. Also macro lenses will print what reproduction ratio a given focus will give you. Lots o neat little tricks.
And this info is for anyone, not just you.
Okay. Did more research last night and am definitely going with the 23mm F1.4. I'm also planning to get a Rokinon 12mm F2 for my landscape and astro needs. The only question now is if 35mm is needed as well. I almost feel like I should get the 35 2 WR since bundled with the camera it's only $300 but I'm not sure how often I would use it compared to the 23.23mm 1.4. There isn't a Fuji lens that can match its image quality.