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Celestial Mortal
Member
Finally got a FE 50mm f1/.8 budget lens to move up from the kit lens that I had.
Although even with f/8, the mask itself is blurry (I had the focus point set towards my eye/face).
Details:
1/4th
f/8
ISO 1000
FL 50mm
Although even with f/8, the mask itself is blurry (I had the focus point set towards my eye/face).
Details:
1/4th
f/8
ISO 1000
FL 50mm
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Bo_Hazem
Banned
Finally got a FE 50mm f1/.8 budget lens to move up from the kit lens that I had.
Although even with f/8, the mask itself is blurry (I had the focus point set towards my eye/face).
Details:
1/4th
f/8
ISO 1000
FL 50mm
Nice shot, mate. And that mask is insanely good!
Celestial Mortal
Member
Thanks man. The mask is indeed quite good but due to not being in focus here is causing it to look a little meh. I need to brush up on my focal lengths and apertures more to capture things that I want in my shot to be sharp. But here I also used a dedicated focus point which probably caused the issue.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
You could as well use a zoom lens. For example, one of the lenses on my radar is Sigma 105mm f/1.4 for E-mount. Even if you keep it at f/1.4 you'll still have the person extremely sharp while blurring the background.
First impressions review of the Sigma 105mm f/1.4 Art lens - The "Bokeh Master"
First impressions review of the Sigma 105mm f/1.4 Art lens - The "Bokeh Master"
www.diyphotography.net
Or have it at like F/2.8 to be sure. BUT, you can go back a little and crop if you have like good resolution to play with.
Celestial Mortal
Member
You could as well use a zoom lens. For example, one of the lenses on my radar is Sigma 105mm f/1.4 for E-mount. Even if you keep it at f/1.4 you'll still have the person extremely sharp while blurring the background.
First impressions review of the Sigma 105mm f/1.4 Art lens - The "Bokeh Master"
First impressions review of the Sigma 105mm f/1.4 Art lens - The "Bokeh Master"
Or have it at like F/2.8 to be sure. BUT, you can go back a little and crop if you have like good resolution to play with.
I do have the kit lens 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 that really does a great job being a kit lens and all.
Got the nifty fifty because I needed more maximum aperture for good bokeh effect, since I was photographing myself, the distance between me and the camera was quite minimal enough to just have a focus lock. I will experiment further once I feel inspired lol.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Does it accept remotes? You can use a remote and get a bit far away. Also, try the timer, I think it'll keep focusing?
Celestial Mortal
Member
I used the Imaging Edge Mobile app provided by Sony themselves which helps with remote shutter, can use it as a second viewfinder as well as change aperture, shutter and ISO settings but can't use it to focus.
When I used the focus on the camera to focus on a specific point, I was expecting on f/8 to have everything in focus.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
I have zero experience first hand, by the way. It's mostly what I've read. Buying the a7S III later
.
Mobilemofo
Member
Took this in Wales. Wanted to create something with it so flipped a reflection, took the colour out. Enhanced detail and changed colour at. Bottom.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Took this in Wales. Wanted to create something with it so flipped a reflection, took the colour out. Enhanced detail and changed colour at. Bottom.
Looks nice! It actually fucks my mind a bit.
Mobilemofo
Member
Why I had to take the colour out.. Almost gave me a strokeLooks nice! It actually fucks my mind a bit.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Why I had to take the colour out.. Almost gave me a stroke
I think it looks perfect that way, than just simple reflection. I like it.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Not sure if I ever posted this - rice paddies in Japan off of a DJI Mavic 2 Pro last year...one of my personal favorites from my Japan trip
That's wonderful!
pawel86ck
Banned
At first I thought it's all about good camera, and good lens. Now however I have realized it's all about pretty much everything, meaning not just camera gear, but also about lighting, good poses, color theory, emotions, photoshop knowledge etc. That's a lot of knowledge, so right now I'm studying a lot, because it's easy to take average photos, and someday I want to take photos that people will want to look at.
Here's my instagram where I will be uploading my photos (hopefully better and better)
Instagram
www.instagram.com
Here's my instagram where I will be uploading my photos (hopefully better and better)
www.instagram.com
Bo_Hazem
Banned
At first I thought it's all about good camera, and good lens. Now however I have realized it's all about pretty much everything, meaning not just camera gear, but also about lighting, good poses, color theory, emotions, photoshop knowledge etc. That's a lot of knowledge, so right now I'm studying a lot, because it's easy to take average photos, and someday I want to take photos that people will want to look at.
Here's my instagram where I will be uploading my photos (hopefully better and better)
Wonderful shots, mate! Lately, I've been using Luminar 4, I mean it gives you an unfair advantage due to its AI, wonderful how it tweaks your photos like a pro! Just avoid 4.3 version, go for 4.2, it's broken so far. Also there is the new Luminar AI coming soon. I have Aurora HDR from the same company as well, try downloading them and try them for free.
pawel86ck
Banned
I dont trust AI. I still remember old terminator movies, and I know what AI is capable of (skynet, end of the world, and stuff like that
). But jokes aside, thanks for a recommendation, I will defnintely watch YT videos in regards to Luminar AI, although I must say I can already replace sky, and entire background in photoshop.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
I dont trust AI. I still remember old terminator movies, and I know what AI is capable of (skynet, end of the world, and stuff like that
It's not about replacing, it smartly adjust contrast, smartly adjust lighting, and everything! Partially improves foliage, and lots of sorcery. Luminar 4 is better than Luminar AI for you, it already has crazy AI on Luminar 4.
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pawel86ck
Banned
Yes, I know you have to consider lighting (match brightness and color cast), cut entire sky and people with perfect mask (especially hair is difficult to cut perfectly), however it sounds too good if AI can do it perfectly just in one click
. Adobe has refined AI in photoshop not so long time ago for cuting subjects but it can cut hair with good results only when background color is solid, so I'm using standard methods anyway. Of course I will try Luminar AI, because it must be good if you are recommending it. In fact I'm watching this video right now:
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Yes, I know you have to consider lighting (match brightness and color cast), cut entire sky and people with perfect mask (especially hair is difficult to cut perfectly), however it sounds too good if AI can do it perfectly just in one click
I'm recommending Luminar 4 (use 4.2 version), you can try it for free. It has insane AI.
Luminar AI is a new app coming, standalone, one click modification.
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pawel86ck
Banned
Holy cow, this thing can indeed do a lot. But If people can edit their photos so easily then I guess photographers who mastered photoshop will be no longer so special
. IDK if that's a good thing 
.
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Bo_Hazem
Banned
Holy cow, this thing can indeed do a lot. But If people can edit their photos so easily then I guess photographers who mastered photoshop will be no longer so special
This looks insane, I might as well buy this one to implement the rest. But Luminar 4 still has full manual tools, so you can use both AI to speed up you work, and manual editing. Aurora HDR on the other hand is an insane app that makes HDR out of 1 single photo, you can use several traditionally as well. So Aurora HDR is amazing for underexposed or overexposed photos that even with Luminar 4 you can't reach that kinda dynamic range.
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pawel86ck
Banned
My impressions after trying version 4.
Sky mask isnt perfect. I knew it sounded too good to be true.
Even in simple scenarios like few lines on the sky there are artifacts.
But I have to say it's REALLY cool feature being able to see in one click how my photo will look like with different sky, and if I wll like the results I can always spend my time in photoshop doing things the "old fashioned" way
.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
My impressions after trying version 4.
Sky mask isnt perfect. I knew it sounded too good to be true.
Even in simple scenarios like few lines on the sky there are artifacts.
But I have to say it's REALLY cool feature being able to see in one click how my photo will look like with different sky, and if I wll like the results I can always spend my time in photoshop doing things the "old fashioned" way
That actually looks amazing! And on Instagram it's already too small for people to see. I don't use those fakery as I keep it as authentic as possible, but it's wonderful for an artistic approach, which I will put a disclaimer under it.
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pawel86ck
Banned
Absolutely, without zooming artifacts are too small to notice. I have to say mask is very good in around 95%, so I think if they would add adjustments for specific areas AI would cut everything without artifacts. But even right now luminar 4 is really awesome tool, because it's very useful when you can test different artistic vision in no time. Thanks for this recommendation
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Bo_Hazem
Banned
Absolutely, without zooming artifacts are too small to notice. I have to say mask is very good in around 95%, so I think if they would add adjustments for specific areas AI would cut everything without artifacts. But even right now luminar 4 is really awesome tool, because it's very useful when you can test different artistic vision in no time. Thanks for this recommendation
You're welcome, mate! You can paint exactly where you want it to do those adjustments, and use separate layers of adjustments as well.
rykomatsu
Member
DJI OM4 + OnePlus 8 Pro in the Great Smoky Mountains - this is towards Pigeon Forge / Sevierville I believe
First time I put up a video without a PC in the workflow, so no idea how it looks, but on my phone, looks like it came out phenomenally with multiple layers of direction.
I believe this was 5sec timelaspe over 30min
First time I put up a video without a PC in the workflow, so no idea how it looks, but on my phone, looks like it came out phenomenally with multiple layers of direction.
I believe this was 5sec timelaspe over 30min
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Man, that's impressive! Layers of clouds going in mixed directions! Wonderful spot indeed! Let's see more of this beauty.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Photography thrives on such opportunities!
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Sony Launching a new drone, Airpeak!
Elevating Creativity
Combining our imaging and sensing technological expertise and AI Robotics,
we open the skies into an infinite creative playground – one with unprecedented freedom.
Let us lift you to never-reached creative experience by unleashing all constraints and barriers.
www.sony.net
Elevating Creativity
Combining our imaging and sensing technological expertise and AI Robotics,
we open the skies into an infinite creative playground – one with unprecedented freedom.
Let us lift you to never-reached creative experience by unleashing all constraints and barriers.
ARS-S1 Airpeak S1 - Sony Pro
World's smallest drone that can carry a full frame Alpha series mirrorless camera. Find out more.
www.sony.net
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Finally got my hands on Sony a7S III, but only the body. Sold my DJI Mavic Air 2 to compensate for its price. Going for CFexpress Type A from Sony. From reviews I watched it seems like I'll be shooting mainly in 4K@120fps 10-bit 4:2:2 (XAVC HS format) (280Mbps) and using 1080p@240fps slow motion for some. Would probably use XAVC S-I (ALL-I) 4K in extremely dark situations at 24fps to absorb as much light as possible vs 60fps.
Still, will start with Sigma 24-70mm Art lens + Sony 160GB CFexpress-A memory card! Can't shoot anything for now.
PS glad that new DaVinci Resolve 17 is available, as I would go for Studio to be able to use 10-bit or higher footage.
Still, will start with Sigma 24-70mm Art lens + Sony 160GB CFexpress-A memory card! Can't shoot anything for now.
PS glad that new DaVinci Resolve 17 is available, as I would go for Studio to be able to use 10-bit or higher footage.
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Platinumstorm
Member
I don't have anything fancy, just my phone. The first one is where I live.
This one kind of captivated me, the lone peak in the back is just interesting by itself, and there's a layer of wildfire smoke between me and the mountain. The forest is really moody and marshy, and I had just gone from vibrant wildflower fields and lakes, into a giant avalanche debris field, and then into this very subdued color set up.
This picture I took last month. I was going to go skiing, but my home was covered in frost, and I LOVE hiking in frost covered forests. However, when I got to the trailhead there was no frost, the cloud layer was just barely below this. Instead, I got this lightly snowy shot which I appreciated for the visible differences in the snow layer based on how the sun had hit the trees. This picture gives me weird phone HDR vibes, but I almost never use HDR because I think it makes pictures look too fake.
This last one I took on Sunday. I have a little something for mountains buried in the clouds. I love how imposingly large it makes them. I killed all of my speed so I could have the hill in front of me crest, as I thought it would give the mountains a more massive and secretive impression.
This one kind of captivated me, the lone peak in the back is just interesting by itself, and there's a layer of wildfire smoke between me and the mountain. The forest is really moody and marshy, and I had just gone from vibrant wildflower fields and lakes, into a giant avalanche debris field, and then into this very subdued color set up.
This picture I took last month. I was going to go skiing, but my home was covered in frost, and I LOVE hiking in frost covered forests. However, when I got to the trailhead there was no frost, the cloud layer was just barely below this. Instead, I got this lightly snowy shot which I appreciated for the visible differences in the snow layer based on how the sun had hit the trees. This picture gives me weird phone HDR vibes, but I almost never use HDR because I think it makes pictures look too fake.
This last one I took on Sunday. I have a little something for mountains buried in the clouds. I love how imposingly large it makes them. I killed all of my speed so I could have the hill in front of me crest, as I thought it would give the mountains a more massive and secretive impression.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
I don't have anything fancy, just my phone. The first one is where I live.
This one kind of captivated me, the lone peak in the back is just interesting by itself, and there's a layer of wildfire smoke between me and the mountain. The forest is really moody and marshy, and I had just gone from vibrant wildflower fields and lakes, into a giant avalanche debris field, and then into this very subdued color set up.
This picture I took last month. I was going to go skiing, but my home was covered in frost, and I LOVE hiking in frost covered forests. However, when I got to the trailhead there was no frost, the cloud layer was just barely below this. Instead, I got this lightly snowy shot which I appreciated for the visible differences in the snow layer based on how the sun had hit the trees. This picture gives me weird phone HDR vibes, but I almost never use HDR because I think it makes pictures look too fake.
This last one I took on Sunday. I have a little something for mountains buried in the clouds. I love how imposingly large it makes them. I killed all of my speed so I could have the hill in front of me crest, as I thought it would give the mountains a more massive and secretive impression.
Amazing shots! The first one is pretty dramatic.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
I have read a lot and I'm a bit confused about megapixel vs print sizes. I'm planning to buy a 44" canon printer for business in the near future, and own a7S III which is 12.1 MP. I read a lot on the web that you need to have like at least 150ppi, which is around 35MP for A0.
But let's look at realistic figures. Of course that nearly drove me to sell my a7S III and push further to get a1 with 50MP, of course it'll look much more sharper and cleaner at A0. But what is the actually dimensions of A0?
Now, I have a 55" 4K HDR tv that I use for PC, Netflix, and PS5. 4K is actually only 8.29MP, so what is the size of 55" tv?
So the TV is slightly wider (horizontally) by 1.1" (2.8cm) and a bit shorter than A0 by 6.1" (15.5cm). So the PPI/DPI of the 4K is only 80.11 PPI at 55" TV vs 87.2 PPI for 12.1MP (4000x3000px) for the A0 size (diagonal is 57.34" or 145.64cm):
4K footage look amazing and even 12MP photos look wonderful and sharp from around 1 meter away, so why not the prints?
So, did anyone have any experience printing massive prints at A0 with only 12MP, or any MP in that regard? Thanks!
But let's look at realistic figures. Of course that nearly drove me to sell my a7S III and push further to get a1 with 50MP, of course it'll look much more sharper and cleaner at A0. But what is the actually dimensions of A0?
| 1189 x 841 mm | 46.8 x 33.1 in |
Now, I have a 55" 4K HDR tv that I use for PC, Netflix, and PS5. 4K is actually only 8.29MP, so what is the size of 55" tv?
47.9" 121.7 cm | 27.0" 68.6 cm |
So the TV is slightly wider (horizontally) by 1.1" (2.8cm) and a bit shorter than A0 by 6.1" (15.5cm). So the PPI/DPI of the 4K is only 80.11 PPI at 55" TV vs 87.2 PPI for 12.1MP (4000x3000px) for the A0 size (diagonal is 57.34" or 145.64cm):
4K footage look amazing and even 12MP photos look wonderful and sharp from around 1 meter away, so why not the prints?
So, did anyone have any experience printing massive prints at A0 with only 12MP, or any MP in that regard? Thanks!
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Chankoras
Member
Bo, is hard to make a direct comparison because the screens are usually blue, green and red subpixels that work by using the intensity of light, printers use ink, so image has to be converted to cyan, yellow, magenta and black, also the properties of the paper like absorption etc make a difference in the perceived acuity as well as viewing distance.I have read a lot and I'm a bit confused about megapixel vs print sizes. I'm planning to buy a 44" canon printer for business in the near future, and own a7S III which is 12.1 MP. I read a lot on the web that you need to have like at least 150ppi, which is around 35MP for A0.
But let's look at realistic figures. Of course that nearly drove me to sell my a7S III and push further to get a1 with 50MP, of course it'll look much more sharper and cleaner at A0. But what is the actually dimensions of A0?
1189 x 841 mm 46.8 x 33.1 in
Now, I have a 55" 4K HDR tv that I use for PC, Netflix, and PS5. 4K is actually only 8.29MP, so what is the size of 55" tv?
47.9" 121.7 cm27.0" 68.6 cm
So the TV is slightly wider (horizontally) by 1.1" (2.8cm) and a bit shorter than A0 by 6.1" (15.5cm). So the PPI/DPI of the 4K is only 80.11 PPI at 55" TV vs 87.2 PPI for 12.1MP (4000x3000px) for the A0 size (diagonal is 57.34" or 145.64cm):
4K footage look amazing and even 12MP photos look wonderful and sharp from around 1 meter away, so why not the prints?
So, did anyone have any experience printing massive prints at A0 with only 12MP, or any MP in that regard? Thanks!
Maybe topaz gigapixel can help a little, the have a limited free trial.
Bo_Hazem
Banned
Thank you for the nice thoughts. Hmmm, seems like I need to test it myself whenever I get that printer. Thanks a lot for the input!
Bo_Hazem
Banned
That's the night lens right there! I'm waiting for Laowa's 35mm and 45mm f/0.95 and see how they do at night, if not so good then might just go with the new Sony GM 50mm f/1.2 later. Great lens you have!
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