NES/Famicom Appreciation Thread

Once you figure you do an RGB mod plus get a Framemeister and it's pretty comparable in price. Subtract the rest for convenience and it doesn't seem like a terrible deal honestly.
You still need a Framemeister or a good RGB CRT for the best picture anyway.

It's literally just an RGB modded Famicom/NES. Their $80 HDMI adapter isn't much good based on the youtube video - while it taps the picture directly from the PPU, it then does pretty basic scaling to create an emulator-like image, ruining the original visual presentation. The aspect ratio is off (the adjustment options look poor) and the scanline emulation shown looks pretty bad. But I'm sure it still puts out a great 240p RGB image thanks to Tim's board inside.

If I were to get one I'd pair it with a 20" Sony BVM via RGB. That's the true premium experience.

Yeah, Nintendo manufactured about 50 million of them. I think we're gonna be OK.
62 million.

If you ran around Tokyo for a weekend you could pick up thousands of working Famicoms for a couple of bucks each.

Actually I have six Famicoms (three originals, Twin, NES, AV). I'm part of the problem...
 
^Why do these older consoles have such bad input lag when played with composite cables on HDTVs? If you are using a CRT it's a nonissue, right?

Older consoles put out a 240p image. Modern televisions are 720p or 1080p. Modern TV upscalers are pretty crap, so not only will it look ugly, but it will take a while to process. On top of that, TV manufacturers have a lot of post processing to make their displays look extra sick that takes time to happen before the image is displayed. This doesn't matter for non-interactive media, and that's all they care about.

CRTs can change resolution at will since it's just an electron gun shooting magic electrons, so it can be set to draw more or less lines on the fly.

Also I heard rumors of someone making an entirely new mechanism for the front loader to replace the original mechanism for loading carts. Idea was to fix the issue that wore out the pins.

Any progress on that?

Do you mean the Blinking Light Win? It came out. It works.
 
Do you mean the Blinking Light Win? It came out. It works.

Blinking Light Win AKA

XGNTXFg.png
 
Does it grip to the point of damaging carts or does it just need time to loosen up?

Hasn't damaged any of my games. Also it is not consistent. It's death grip on some carts, and not an issue at all on others.

But the product works super well.
 
^Why do these older consoles have such bad input lag when played with composite cables on HDTVs? If you are using a CRT it's a nonissue, right?



Also I heard rumors of someone making an entirely new mechanism for the front loader to replace the original mechanism for loading carts. Idea was to fix the issue that wore out the pins.


Any progress on that?

You talking about Blinking Light Win? It's a new connector and a tray that doesn't lower. Apparently backers have been getting theirs, And it's for sale on their site, but it says orders won't go out until the end of July 'cause of the massive demand.

Store Page

Youtube Video Showing It
 
So whats the difference between that and those aftermarket party pin connectors you used to be able to buy from Racketboy / various places? Because after I replaced mine long ago after snagging one from Racketboy, its got a tight connection and I dont have to press my carts down.
 
So whats the difference between that and those aftermarket party pin connectors you used to be able to buy from Racketboy / various places? Because after I replaced mine long ago after snagging one from Racketboy, its got a tight connection and I dont have to press my carts down.

Basically, BLW won't LET YOU press down. That's pretty much it.
 
Basically, BLW won't LET YOU press down. That's pretty much it.

Well not to be that guy...but if thats it, unless its that much cheaper (and the guy makes a decent profit either along the way) I really dont see the big deal about it vs just changing out the 72 pin alone. But then again I said the same thing when the first video pitching the kickstarter hit.
 
Well, the replacement 72 pin connectors that have been for sale for years still have the same design flaws of the original connectors used in the front loader. They'll still more than likely wear out after years of use, and the connection just isn't as good or reliable as a console with a top-loading design. Plus, Blinking Light Win eliminates all lockout chip issues workout the need of cutting pins.

Blinking Light Win is a step up, and if they can solve the pin tightness, it should be a no brainer for everyone with a front loader.
 
Well not to be that guy...but if thats it, unless its that much cheaper (and the guy makes a decent profit either along the way) I really dont see the big deal about it vs just changing out the 72 pin alone. But then again I said the same thing when the first video pitching the kickstarter hit.

You know how the original ZIF or whatever connector is weird and makes you press down to tighten the connection and make contact so the games play? That makes it easy (Zero Force easy!) to insert and remove carts, but leads to problems with bent pins and whatnot over time.

BLW is basically the same connector a top loader uses, but sideways. It's a completely different type of connector that won't wear down over time.
 
Incidentally, my NES started giving me purple screen earlier today. Some of the games worked after some fidgeting in the slot, others won't. I tried a home-made fix by bending the connector pins upwards, and it seemed to help, but I still get the purple screen a lot. I guess the only choice is to get a new 72-pin connector, since I don't think there's anything else wrong with the console.

The BLW sounds like something I'd want to buy eventually, though.
 
Well, the replacement 72 pin connectors that have been for sale for years still have the same design flaws of the original connectors used in the front loader. They'll still more than likely wear out after years of use, and the connection just isn't as good or reliable as a console with a top-loading design. Plus, Blinking Light Win eliminates all lockout chip issues workout the need of cutting pins.

Blinking Light Win is a step up, and if they can solve the pin tightness, it should be a no brainer for everyone with a front loader.
I should get two then. I have two front loaders. One has a bad 72 pin and a bad NES10 chip, the other is still good. I can kill two birds with one stone and get my other NES fixed in one shot.
 
Well, the replacement 72 pin connectors that have been for sale for years still have the same design flaws of the original connectors used in the front loader. They'll still more than likely wear out after years of use, and the connection just isn't as good or reliable as a console with a top-loading design. Plus, Blinking Light Win eliminates all lockout chip issues workout the need of cutting pins.

Blinking Light Win is a step up, and if they can solve the pin tightness, it should be a no brainer for everyone with a front loader.

Oh well I didn't know about the killing lockout chip issues. That kinda changes my opinion completely.
 
^Why do these older consoles have such bad input lag when played with composite cables on HDTVs? If you are using a CRT it's a nonissue, right?
Conversion of analog signal to digital is one cause. Manufacturers focusing on image quality (or filters/effects) using framebuffers is another. Finally, manufacturers using cheap, slow scalers.
 
Conversion of analog signal to digital is one cause. Manufacturers focusing on image quality (or filters/effects) using framebuffers is another. Finally, manufacturers using cheap, slow scalers.

I also think that deinterlacing plays a big role. A 720p signal from a 360 via component seems to fare better than a 480i signal from a PS2 via component.

edit: I misread "composite" as "component" here, but I think it's still worth noting!
 
USA gamers - how much does a console-only NES go for do you think? I don't care about blinking light issues I can fix that.

I want to get another NTSC toaster, but I'm in Australia and eBay is drowning in 'Global Shipping Program' listings, and GSP is garbage to Australia (super expensive, very slow, and I've had two parcels damaged so never again).

Any other decent source of consoles? Otherwise I basically have to wait for a US model to appear in Australia.
 
USA gamers - how much does a console-only NES go for do you think? I don't care about blinking light issues I can fix that.

I want to get another NTSC toaster, but I'm in Australia and eBay is drowning in 'Global Shipping Program' listings, and GSP is garbage to Australia (super expensive, very slow, and I've had two parcels damaged so never again).

Any other decent source of consoles? Otherwise I basically have to wait for a US model to appear in Australia.

I got my last one by asking in the BST thread, and someone shipped me one for.. I wanna say... $40 all up including tracked shipping? It had SMB3 with it too though.
 
Ah good plan. I'll try that.

EDIT: Lol thought I'd see if any are there first.

Ctrl-F 'NES': 100 hits!

...all 'Ness' Amibos.
 
Lol!

Good luck. They do pop up from time to time but I did get someone PM me fairly quickly when I put a WTB up. Two people actually, but one fell through.
 
Yes, unfortunately, ebay has managed to work the global shipping program into most listings. I wonder if these sellers realize that they get less sales or lower bids due to it. Why on earth would I pay a total of $25 for shipping on one game?

I refuse to buy anything from anyone using it. I assume they are lazy, ignorant, or just plain don't want international buyers. I patronize people willing to charge actual shipping rates and do the posting themselves.
 
I used to buy heaps from the U.S. Now that's basically stopped because every listing has $25 postage 'with no additional tax or import charges!!'...

...even though everything under $1000 to Australia has no tax or import charges anyway.

The legit sellers are buried under an avalanche of GSP nightmares.

Also eBay lies about postage price in search results of GSP listings. It shows like $10, then you open the listing and it's $24.97 or something.
 
Also eBay lies about postage price in search results of GSP listings. It shows like $10, then you open the listing and it's $24.97 or something.

I noticed this too. I've taken to just doing "Canada Only" unless I'm specifically trying to buy something from Japan or China or Singapore or something. The problem is since Canadian sellers don't do GSP internationally there are slim pickings; everyone else seems to be taking our NTSC games. :( Kinda know how Japanese retro gamers feel now.
 
Sweet as. Wait a week or so and I may have some nicer less worn controllers to attach to it as well, I bought a bulk lot recently and am waiting arrival.
 
Anyone in the amazing thread interested in selling off some games or doubles you may have? Can't get enough of collecting that 8 bit goodness that is the NES :)
 
Well it took me awhile, but I finally did it. I’ve beaten Startropics.
For a game that share some aspects of the original Zelda, it sure seems it borrows its difficulty from Zelda 2. The last few stages of the game are frustrating hard. But man was it satisfying, when the final boss started to explode/melt. :)
Now I just need to get Zoda's Revenge. Here's hoping that I'll be able to find it out in the wild (for a decent price).
 
Well it took me awhile, but I finally did it. I’ve beaten Startropics.

For a game that share some aspects of the original Zelda, it sure seems it borrows its difficulty from Zelda 2. The last few stages of the game are frustrating hard. But man was it satisfying, when the final boss started to explode/melt. :)
Now I just need to get Zoda's Revenge. Here's hoping that I'll be able to find it out in the wild (for a decent price).

You will. Zoda is cheap almost everywhere I go for some reason.
 
What I love about Zoda's Revenge is that it's the secret backstory to the Tetris-verse.
 
Iwata's passing has made me sad about the fact that I don't have Kirby or Balloon Fight in my NES collection at all. I want to get CIBs of both, which is why I don't have them already. Maybe I should just forget about that...
 
It doesn't.

Well, the replacement 72 pin connectors that have been for sale for years still have the same design flaws of the original connectors used in the front loader. They'll still more than likely wear out after years of use, and the connection just isn't as good or reliable as a console with a top-loading design. Plus, Blinking Light Win eliminates all lockout chip issues workout the need of cutting pins.

Blinking Light Win is a step up, and if they can solve the pin tightness, it should be a no brainer for everyone with a front loader.
I thought the NES10 chips could go bad, or has it always only been the pins that caused the problems?
 
I'll probably pop in Balloon Fight and play it a little bit if I have a chance. One of my favorite arcade style games.

Unrelated, but with the Blinking Light Win, what do the instructions mean by 'Power Cycle'? Am I going to have to turn my NES on and off 4 times every time I want to play my normal old NTSC games?
 
So apparently my Crystalis cart ate my save. I was grinding pretty early in the game when it crashed to all kinds of ascii code on the screen then poof the save was gone. Not a big deal as I was only level 3 or so. Is there any way to avoid this?
 
Guys I'm looking for a Scart RGBS cable for a soon to be modded AV Famicom. Can I just get any SNES or Gamecube cable? Or does it need to be tweaked with resistors and capacitors?
 
How does Blinking Light Win bypass the NES10 chip?
Well, it bypasses the cartridge's lockout chip. On the Blinking Light Win PCB, they have a custom chip that will talk to the system chip instead of having the cartridge chip and system chip talk to each other. If the chip in the system really has died, I suppose the hard mod would still be an option.
I'll probably pop in Balloon Fight and play it a little bit if I have a chance. One of my favorite arcade style games.

Unrelated, but with the Blinking Light Win, what do the instructions mean by 'Power Cycle'? Am I going to have to turn my NES on and off 4 times every time I want to play my normal old NTSC games?
The custom chip needs to be configured to your system's region. It does this by power cycling the console until it finds the correct region. Once it's set, you won't have to worry about it again; it won't have any more blinking light issues.
 
Hopefully Lone Ranger wont go up too high since I still want to play it, and it was just on Game Chasers. In other news, they think Houston is the "City of Scraps". They are right (at this point anyway).
 
The custom chip needs to be configured to your system's region. It does this by power cycling the console until it finds the correct region. Once it's set, you won't have to worry about it again; it won't have any more blinking light issues.
Right, that's pretty much what the instructions said too.

I'm just confused by what constitutes a power cycle here. Sounds to me like that would be any time I power down the system? In which case, I'd have to worry about it all the time. If it's a quick on-off thing, then I have to be careful not to power the system on and off too rapidly (not that I would ever do that anyway, provided most games work the first time.)

I'm probably just dumb and overthinking this, lol.
 
Does anyone have a duplicate NES front loader they are willing to sell? Mine was damaged in storage and my son has interest in playing games on it and loves 8bit music. I don't care if it's yellowed, (I can fix that) as long as it is in good shape and works. I figured I would post here because I'm not sure how often you guys visit the BST thread, but will post there as well. Thanks.
 
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