SCE is the full game on Steam, download that and then use the other key to unlock the beta (Games list, Properties, Betas tab). Or you could have them on separate installs if you don't want a crashy beta as your main version of SCE - I believe Mr Takeover is doing this.
The beta is for the new content introduced during the crowd funding. The main game is not a beta. However they are changing more than just content over the next few months thanks to the campaign. New features, new interface, etc.
Yeah, it's pretty much this. But with the scope that most of the content generated from here until the new game is released (and possibly earlier content) will appear in the next game... I think?
Some cheap flipflops gave their life for better brake feel. Hilarious how much the pedals were improved with something so basic.
I can't say I know for sure, but I would reckon it's for using Namco's QA and leveraging them to handle the platform holders, since even patching on consoles isn't as easy as it is on PC. It pretty much allows them to work more on the game rather than on external relations. Also, since it has Namco's name on it, they probably still want to do their internal checkup since it's their brand on the line.
Tread lightly, Weevil.
I'm glad your flipflop isn't pregnant either. Phew.
I was loving it before it started making unpleasant noises.Not what I wanted to hear
In the case of SCE, it lacks the automatic steering ratio adjustment and soft lock found in many of the modern engines. So you need to set the wheel in the Thrustmaster driver to somewhere around 220/540/900 depending on which car you want to drive. Karts are around 220, Camaro and Opala are 900, everything else 540. You'll want to adjust the ratio in the garage of each car too - I use 220/14, 540/22 and 900/33. You can get away with setting the wheel to 540 for everything and just adjusting the ratio to more extreme values for the 220 and 900 cars, but that's less realistic. One of the updates on the way is an auto ratio adjustment - it can't come soon enough.
My impression is that they will carry as much tech and content over as possible. It doesn't sound like they plan to start from scratch on anything but the rendering system, but I could be wrong...
Reckoned as much, pure asset creation doesn't really interested me that much. Physics, tech, biz dev is usually more interesting for me, but naturally it's not something thats much left for GSCE. Still might pick it up at some point.
Yeah it self-calibrates the 100% position each time you plug it in. If you watch the input readout you'll see it jump to 100% as you start to push down slowly - it treats the furthest/hardest push as 100% from that point, and will keep moving the 100% point back if you keep pushing harder. If you don't do a full push before you start driving, that initial jump to 100% will happen the first time you touch the pedal, causing you to lock up immediately.
I'd take Reflections and Environment Map down to Medium first. Then maybe Shadows down to High. Then track detail, then car detail.Thanks for this it's very helpful
Quick question about Project Cars PC performance. I've had a pretty solid 60fps on my 780/i5, but just now playing on Brands Hatch it was chugging around the 45fps mark. I've got everything set at max, what should I turn off to reach a stable 60fps?
One could argue even more realistic physics and FFB however it's pretty much a hotlapping sim right now.
More believable handling across a wider range of situations (imo).
GTR2 has an NGT version, and there is this mod http://www.nogripracing.com/details.php?filenr=31609
Which is why i am asking
First time I've read SCE handle terribly 8) Take a look through this thread which explains how to set up wheels for SCE: http://www.racedepartment.com/threa...-steering-wheel-for-stock-car-extreme.100889/
If you've set the T300 similarly to how I show in the vid, plus the stuff in the control options in the sim and the ratio adjustment in the garage, then the cars should not handle terribly. The update for auto steering ratio isn't going to change the handling, it'll just mean you don't have to set the lock and ratio options each time.
I think Mr Takeover was also struggling with Thrustmaster drivers in in Win10. There's some pretty important settings in there, so you need to get that working in order to deal with that slackness. You may need to up the strength a bit, or add some damper.
At 3:20 in my vid, I show the FFB settings in the control panel. Yours should look similar, but as I said, you'll probably want strength at 75 instead of 60. Your Constant, Periodic and Spring settings should look the same as mine, but you may want to increase the Damper. I have it at 0 because the T500 has much more mechanical damping than a T300. I'd say maybe set it at 20-30. In the sim, there is a basic feedback strength setting too, as shown at about 4:12 in the vid. Again I have that around 60, maybe you should try 80.Made the changes as per the video, the steering still feels a bit light for my liking, compared to PCars which has a very firm feel to the steering. Where should I adjust the strength or damper?
Also, found the control panel! Had to search for 'game' in the search bar, which brought up USB controllers and could access it via properties.
Thanks for the help everyone
That's a long way off from what I recall. Edit: the laser scanned surface for R3E, iRacing and AC is already out of date: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10155409290105454.1073741999.445535095453&type=1
Indeed although I have to be careful as what is tested isn't always making it into the public builds. That said, there are changes being made thanks to drivers such as Kelvin van der Linde and various DTM drivers such as Bruno Spengler.
This is a 'heads up' for those still interested in R3E.
