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PC Racing Sims Thread

TJP

Member
I expect it'll be called Mie-ken Circuit or something else local, as I'm not sure if ISI will splash out on the license... which raises the question, is Auto Mobilista's Suzuka official?
You're most likely correct in that a rename is more likely than a fully licenced track. I'm stunned this is allowable by law but I'm happy it occurs 8)

No way Reiza have the money to have licenced tracks outside of their home country.

It looks superb, but it's probably an AC rip though sadly, as DJCruicky doesn't seem to have any major updates in the pipeline for his version :(
It is for the ripped track and not the scratch made one, SRFL confirmed so this morning. Shame too as the scratch made track is really well made.
 

Dave_6

Member
I was stunned when certain brands were confirmed to be in the works; only one brand has been a hold out apparently.

Sector 3 have a backlog of licences however they keep them to themselves until its time to test. For example, we beta testers only knew about the NSU TT just before testing started.

Awesome, can't wait to see what's in the pipeline.

I made some drastic changes to the FFB settings in R3E a few nights ago that made my experience MUCH better. I already loved the sim but I love it even more now.
 
Busy day for rF2...

3x new tracks
2x car updates
1x track update
Apple Valley Speedway now available!

Apple Valley Speedway is a two-mile low-banked D-shaped oval superspeedway. The facility has hosted stock car and IndyCar Series events for three decades. This track has 3 layouts: 2 mile oval, 2.8 mile half oval/half roadcourse, & 1.45 mile roadcourse.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Northside International Raceway now available!

Northside International Raceway – also known as NIR – is unique D-shaped 3/4-mile oval. With adrenaline packed racing under the lights, this Short Track produces exciting side-by-side racing for lap after lap.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Eagle Creek Speedway now available!

Eagle Creek Speedway is a D-shaped 1.5-mile oval, which offers adrenaline packed racing under night lights. Located in Sparta, Kentucky, this 72ft-wide 1.5 mile oval has 14 degrees of banking.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Updated Dallara DW12 Indycar V1.65 now available!

Changelog:
– Fix for weak overall FFB feeling.
– 120″ wheelbase default now (with 119″ 2nd in list, in order of usefulness)
– Reduced real road rate slightly.
– Increase in wet cooling effects across all tyres.
– Small tyre fix which helps to improve optimum camber angles.
– Attempt to make AI less prone to cut corners (especially slower turns and very high speed turns).
– Minor AI physics correlation improvements (less longitudinal grip).
– RollDamping (in the form of natural / self damping) now embedded into ARB adjustments.
– Removed ‘wedge’ from pit menu HUD for Road Courses.
– Enable pit-adjustable rear wing for speedway configurations. (The last car bug reported by Max)
– Added toe-offsets.
– Minor turbo sound tweaks.
– Added GrooveSqrdEffect with the primary purpose of reducing speedway grip a fraction.
– A tiny bit less sensitive to dirty air (more so on the speedway configuration side).
– Leading draft significantly cut too (reducing fore balance shift which cause weird feeling spinouts if someone managed to get VERY close behind) to a more realistic level.
– Slightly reduced cooling on minimum radiator.
– White edges on digits fixed
– Changed “Chevy” back to “Chevrolet”.
– Add 1 onboard camera.
– Steering wheel hand rotation now matches wheel a little better.
– Some other graphical fixes.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Updated Stock Cars V1.04 now avaible!

Changelog:
– Added #32 Joey Gase (@JoeyGaseRacing) A.I. car and skin.
– Tires tweaked, which now require more camber.
– Fix for tuning upgrades.
– Fixed typo in setup notes.
– Reduced AI sampling rate slightly (afforded by newer AI bumpstop overrides)
– Slightly tweaked default setup for most configs.
– Added several tracks to trackconfigs.ini
– Added several AI setups to help their competitiveness on newer circuits.
– Other AI adjustments for newer tracks.


-------------------------------------------------------------------
Updated Palm Springs V1.08 now avaible!

Changelog:
– Fixed pit speed limit for all layouts
– Added missing UI art
– Fixed missing surfaces and walls in reflection map
 

Dave_6

Member
IIRC aren't the GT3 cars in R3E getting updated in some way, possibly the physics? If so, is that why I can't buy them as a pack in the store? Currently I'd have to buy each one separately along with each livery that I want. Just curious.
 

Clopezi

Member
Hi everyone!

I want to buy a wheel but i need your help to decide :p

I want to use in PC (Dirt Rally, Project Cars, etc...) but also in one console (Forza in Xbox, Project Cars maybe in PS4). Which console really doesn't matter, PC will be the main. (Also, games support natively will be nice)

I think about Logitech in firts place, but i see the G920 or G29 is too expensive and comes without shifter.

Looking information, i see the T300RS, how about it? I also read that the Thrustmaster products tend to fail, meanwhile Logitech last for years.

Can you help me to choose one around 300€? (I'm flexible)

Thanks!
 

Makikou

Member
Hi everyone!

I want to buy a wheel but i need your help to decide :p

I want to use in PC (Dirt Rally, Project Cars, etc...) but also in one console (Forza in Xbox, Project Cars maybe in PS4). Which console really doesn't matter, PC will be the main. (Also, games support natively will be nice)

I think about Logitech in firts place, but i see the G920 or G29 is too expensive and comes without shifter.

Looking information, i see the T300RS, how about it? I also read that the Thrustmaster products tend to fail, meanwhile Logitech last for years.

Can you help me to choose one around 300€? (I'm flexible)

Thanks!

I have a T300RS since Summer. Had to replace the first one due to a faulty right-side paddle after about 3 months. 2nd one zero issues and it feels better than the old one aswell.

We actually just recently had a survey in our Club Finland forums over @ iRacing on hardware reliability:

jUXsHIJ.png

Survey conducted & illustrated by Jere Seppälä of Club Finland.

So the above that says Ratit = Wheels is the one to look on for now.

Ehjät = means they're working properly
Rikki = broken
Fanatec "vanhat mallit" = Fanatec "Old Models" such as GT3RS wheel or pretty much anything that is not CSW Base

Here we can see a whopping 88 users (thats 57.9% of the whole survey) saying they own a Logitech wheel. G25/27 have a fault rate of 21,3%. This does not include pedals. Pedals are in the box under the Wheels box.
We can probably say that since the G29/G920 are very identical in terms of whats propelling the FFB, there shouldn't be any diversion from these numbers unless build quality simply got worse from G25/G27.

Logitech DFGT's coming in at 18,5% failure rate.

We have 32 Thrustmasters, this includes the TX, T300RS & T500RS wheel sets. They're coming in at a failure rate of 31,3%, with 22 working wheels and 10 that have been warrantied/broken.

I have to admit this was somewhere on the reliability scene where i expected Thrustmaster wheels to be at. They're not without their problems but the fact that the double-belt driven FFB system in Thrustmaster wheels is just worlds apart from the helical gearing of G27/G29. The difference is frankly ridiculous imo and well worth the "risk".

I do have to say that the pedals that come with the G29/G920 are.. i'd say better than the Thrustmaster ones by a shot AND you also get a clutch pedal but you can also do just fine with the Thrustmaster pedals. Granted the T500RS pedals are very capable and i'd say are better than G29/G920 pedals.

Thrustmaster also has a better upgrade ecosystem and you could always pick up better pedals and they'll work with any TM wheel just fine. Also interchange able wheel rims are very nice.
 

Clopezi

Member
I have a T300RS since Summer. Had to replace the first one due to a faulty right-side paddle after about 3 months. 2nd one zero issues and it feels better than the old one aswell.

We actually just recently had a survey in our Club Finland forums over @ iRacing on hardware reliability:

jUXsHIJ.png

Survey conducted & illustrated by Jere Seppälä of Club Finland.

So the above that says Ratit = Wheels is the one to look on for now.

Ehjät = means they're working properly
Rikki = broken
Fanatec "vanhat mallit" = Fanatec "Old Models" such as GT3RS wheel or pretty much anything that is not CSW Base

Here we can see a whopping 88 users (thats 57.9% of the whole survey) saying they own a Logitech wheel. G25/27 have a fault rate of 21,3%. This does not include pedals. Pedals are in the box under the Wheels box.
We can probably say that since the G29/G920 are very identical in terms of whats propelling the FFB, there shouldn't be any diversion from these numbers unless build quality simply got worse from G25/G27.

Logitech DFGT's coming in at 18,5% failure rate.

We have 32 Thrustmasters, this includes the TX, T300RS & T500RS wheel sets. They're coming in at a failure rate of 31,3%, with 22 working wheels and 10 that have been warrantied/broken.

I have to admit this was somewhere on the reliability scene where i expected Thrustmaster wheels to be at. They're not without their problems but the fact that the double-belt driven FFB system in Thrustmaster wheels is just worlds apart from the helical gearing of G27/G29. The difference is frankly ridiculous imo and well worth the "risk".

I do have to say that the pedals that come with the G29/G920 are.. i'd say better than the Thrustmaster ones by a shot AND you also get a clutch pedal but you can also do just fine with the Thrustmaster pedals. Granted the T500RS pedals are very capable and i'd say are better than G29/G920 pedals.

Thrustmaster also has a better upgrade ecosystem and you could always pick up better pedals and they'll work with any TM wheel just fine. Also interchange able wheel rims are very nice.

Wow, thank you so much! I wasn't expecting those failure rates with Logitech.

So... i think i'm going to buy a T300RS for start, and later i will buy pedals and shifter :)

This stand is good? (http://www.wheelstandpro.com/products/wheel-stand-pro-for-thrustmaster-tx-racing-wheel-deluxe-v2)
 

Makikou

Member
Going for a T300RS, ask your shop where you would buy it from that they handle the warranty. It can be a pain sometimes dealing directly with Thrustmaster so if it does break, you can just go to the shop and swap it out for a new one.
 

Clopezi

Member
I was thinking on Amazon, but i see at 200€ on Thrustmaster store, a refurbished product (http://shop.thrustmaster.com/es_es/ofertas-especiales-34/usado/occasion-t300-rs.html)

It is realiable?
Debatable. But it's entirely possible that a Thrustmaster-refurbished T300 is actually better than one leaving the main production line. The T500 I received directly from France as a refurbished wheel base felt better than the (several) T500 bases I've received from retail stores, but as ever, people will give you different anecdotal evidence. It is completely luck-of-the-draw with these things!
 

Makikou

Member
I was thinking on Amazon, but i see at 200€ on Thrustmaster store, a refurbished product (http://shop.thrustmaster.com/es_es/ofertas-especiales-34/usado/occasion-t300-rs.html)

It is realiable?

Sure is cheap but man, only 6 months of warranty instead of a full year? :/

FYI The most common failures of the T300RS are either shifter paddle losing responsiveness, a deathgrip (where you squeeze and pull on the wheel rim strongly everytime you drive) can cause electrical issues and the system which attachs the rim to the wheelbase can get damaged + i've heard some reports of the double-belt system failing or the wheel just not appearing in Windows anymore.

Edit: like Betta Lines said, that wheel could be the one that died for me and they fixed the issue with the paddle(s). Boom a completely working wheel. Maybe it had a FFB failure and they fixed it? Don't know, can't say.

tl;dr most common that i have read and heard of :D
 

Clopezi

Member
Sure is cheap but man, only 6 months of warranty instead of a full year? :/
Worst, here usually we have two years :(

Thank for the info... it's a little risky, but i can buy a triple pedals or maybe the shifter with this money.

Debatable. But it's entirely possible that a Thrustmaster-refurbished T300 is actually better than one leaving the main production line. The T500 I received directly from France as a refurbished wheel base felt better than the (several) T500 bases I've received from retail stores, but as ever, people will give you different anecdotal evidence. It is completely luck-of-the-draw with these things!
Interesting, thanks! I will take the risk :p


Edit: The T3PA pedals are a good investment?
 
The T3PA pedals are a good investment?
They're a significant improvement over the standard T300 pedals - not just the addition of a clutch, but in terms of strength and overall feel. Most importantly, it comes with a conical brake mod that will really enhance your foot's sensitivity in braking zones, which is crucial for going fast.
 

Clopezi

Member
They're a significant improvement over the standard T300 pedals - not just the addition of a clutch, but in terms of strength and overall feel. Most importantly, it comes with a conical brake mod that will really enhance your foot's sensitivity in braking zones, which is crucial for going fast.

Sold!

And the TH8A worth the money? It's too expensive...
 
Sold!

And the TH8A worth the money? It's too expensive...
It's a good shifter for sure, all metal and reliable. If you're just interested in PC, you might be able to find the older TH8RS for less. The TH8A is the same, just adds console compatibility.

It compares pretty well to the Fanatec ClubSport shifter (but the Fanatec is better in sequential mode) - they're both a huge step above the Logitech shifter (G25/27/29). They go beyond the 'toy' feel of the Logitechs, still don't really feel like you're rowing through a real gearbox.

I've not tried this SHH shifter, looks interesting!
 

Clopezi

Member
Well... i'm a bit crazy and finally i have buyed the TH8A for the PS4 compatibility

So... T300RS + TH8A + T3PA + Stand.... ¿good kit? I hope so xD.

I'm impatient for try it with Dirt Rally and Oculus DK2
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
I have a T300RS since Summer. Had to replace the first one due to a faulty right-side paddle after about 3 months. 2nd one zero issues and it feels better than the old one aswell.

We actually just recently had a survey in our Club Finland forums over @ iRacing on hardware reliability:

very interesting. Was about to jump on the G29 for £160 at currys on sale, and the famous reliability issues with the thrustmaster, plus worse default pedals had almost sealed the deal. But your numbers suggest they aren't that different in reliability.

I used to have a DFGT and it was ok, but I found the FFB quite notchy, and it used to kick back and forth when it was centred which was annoying. The belt drive of the T300/500 sounded interesting for better feel.

Would you rank them as T500>T300>G29 in terms of the overall package? T500 having the better pedals, T300 having a better wheel than G29 and option to upgrade the pedals

Looking for a solution to work mainly with PC VR and PS4/PSVR
 

Clopezi

Member
Looking for a solution to work mainly with PC VR and PS4/PSVR
I was looking for the same solution!

In my research, i find exactly that, T500 > T300 > G29 >= T150 (T150 is a poor package but the FFB are better than G29 for many users), but T500 is too expensive.

I think that the main problem is the T300 pedals without clutch, but i think is the better kit right now.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
I might go for a thrustmaster just to see what belt systems feel like. Otherwise I have no way to compare vs Logitech. T150 sounds interesting - half the price of the T300 but seems quite good (neither have good pedals)
 
very interesting. Was about to jump on the G29 for £160 at currys on sale, and the famous reliability issues with the thrustmaster, plus worse default pedals had almost sealed the deal. But your numbers suggest they aren't that different in reliability.

I used to have a DFGT and it was ok, but I found the FFB quite notchy, and it used to kick back and forth when it was centred which was annoying. The belt drive of the T300/500 sounded interesting for better feel.

Would you rank them as T500>T300>G29 in terms of the overall package? T500 having the better pedals, T300 having a better wheel than G29 and option to upgrade the pedals

Looking for a solution to work mainly with PC VR and PS4/PSVR

PS4 support on the T500 is an unknown imo. I wouldn't (and didn't) risk it.

The T300 is fantastic but, again imo, I trust it about as far as I can throw it in terms of reliability. I've already replaced it once and I very much doubt that was the last time.
 
Well... i'm a bit crazy and finally i have buyed the TH8A for the PS4 compatibility

So... T300RS + TH8A + T3PA + Stand.... ¿good kit? I hope so xD.
Nice one! You're gonna have some fun... and potentially a good time with DiRT+DK2, but I don't rate it myself (DR is great, but I've had all kinds of problems with the DK2 implementation).

I might go for a thrustmaster just to see what belt systems feel like. Otherwise I have no way to compare vs Logitech. T150 sounds interesting - half the price of the T300 but seems quite good (neither have good pedals)
The T150 is not enough of an upgrade over the DFGT you're familiar with, imo. And the notion that the T150 compares favourably to a G27/29 is completely baffling to me - it is significantly inferior in almost every way. It has handy compatibility with (some of) the T-series ecosystem and there's the questionable usefulness of an extra 180 degrees of rotation... but even a T3PA+T150 combo is not as good as the G29.
 

Zeth

Member
I'm obsessed with the Flat6 series in RF2. The feeling of counter-steering in that car just feels so good. I've been doing a lot of AI races and getting a better handle on all the options in RF.

Well... i'm a bit crazy and finally i have buyed the TH8A for the PS4 compatibility

So... T300RS + TH8A + T3PA + Stand.... ¿good kit? I hope so xD.

I'm impatient for try it with Dirt Rally and Oculus DK2

Same setup I use, pretty nice upgrade from my original G27, especially for drifting. I occasionally regret not getting the TX instead for its Xbox compatibility; they're otherwise similar bases afaik.
 
I'm obsessed with the Flat6 series in RF2. The feeling of counter-steering in that car just feels so good. I've been doing a lot of AI races and getting a better handle on all the options in RF.

The Flat6es are great, but don't sleep on road racing the Cup cars! Major fun.

Definitely looking forward to the RaceRoom GTOs.
 

Dave_6

Member
I think I'm about to go all out and step up to a CSW V2 wheel, which will probably require me to quit using my old desk and get a dedicated stand/rig/seat. I've also toyed with the idea of going to triple screens too. What are some good but affordable seats/rigs under ~$800 or so?
 
I think I'm about to go all out and step up to a CSW V2 wheel, which will probably require me to quit using my old desk and get a dedicated stand/rig/seat. I've also toyed with the idea of going to triple screens too. What are some good but affordable seats/rigs under ~$800 or so?
GT Omega is one of the most affordable to go for. You'll get a lot of change from $800 too. That's getting quite near RSeat money, which is a big step up in quality...

My review of the CSW V2 is here btw.
 
Looks like GT Omega has a new model, the "ART" and a US distributor for it. USD, and free shipping ftw. $429. No monitor stand, nor do they appear to sell them from the US distributor. Call them. You may have to import it, or look elsewhere though.

I like that design better than the cheaper Obuttu, and it's half as expensive as the more expensive one.

---------

Personally, I'd do an 80/20 frame with a car seat (save money), and an off the shelf monitor stand (save money, I think) like GT Omega's or something. You should still come under $800 for that whole lot.

This guy seems to have done a nice job:

http://www.giospeed.com/GSD_Cockpit_Nav.html

Him speaking on the iRacing forums about it (6 months old)

"Here is a webpage link to information on a cockpit I recently built. My goal was to build a budget-oriented, fully adjustable cockpit from 80/20 extruded aluminum. Budget-oriented is a relative term, obviously, but I'm satisfied with the results. I approached the cockpit as having stages. A stage for seat, wheel, and pedal mounting fixed to a simple frame/skeleton. Each stage of the cockpit is adjustable in fore/aft and up/down positioning. The pedals are also angular adjustable, as well as having enough vertical range to hang GT-Style pedals.

The dimensions are built for me, at minimums based on my height/width, with enough range to play with seat position and body geometry. I'm 5'8" (173cm), average build. I'm using a Corbeau FX1 Pro, which is the narrow version of the FX1. So any taller racers will need a longer skeleton, and anyone with a wider seat/bracket setup will need to build a wider skeleton cockpit.

I've been using this for just 1 week, but I'm very happy with the fit and feel. I'm coming from a cockpit built from 2" PVC, so to me, this is far more rigid. However I'm sure a steel frame would be even more rigid than the 80/20 build. I went with the lightest profile I thought I could get away with (using the TechTool Kit from 80/20 Inc), keeping cost in mind. I used 40-4040-LITE. A bigger racer or one that likes to flail around more might require a thicker/heavier profile.

All that said, I want to share my plans with anyone that is interested. This works for me, but it might be awful for someone else. If nothing else, perhaps this will help nudge your imagination to design something completely different. Awesome!

My clear anodize quote: $405 (ish). My black anodized cost: $515 (ish). Prices before shipping and excluding monitor mounting. I'm currently drawing up a floor standing triple monitor mount, again with budget in mind. I'm a couple revs from submitting for quotation.

Thanks for looking,
Giovanni "
 

Dave_6

Member
GT Omega is one of the most affordable to go for. You'll get a lot of change from $800 too. That's getting quite near RSeat money, which is a big step up in quality...

My review of the CSW V2 is here btw.

Fantastic review of the CSW V2! Had no idea that magazine existed, and those are some incredibly high quality photos as well.

After I made that post, I happened to come across the RSeat in a thread on Racedepartment. That really is one of the nicest rigs I've seen and it looks like you get what you pay for. Just a really quality looking piece. I also looked at the Next Level GT Ultimate V2 but I like the look of the RSeat better. I'll check out the GT Omega too.
 

Wallach

Member
I'm looking for a PC wheel setup and have been eyeing the Thrustmaster VG TX kit. Looked like a pretty decent set, is there anything I should know about regarding that set for PC? I'll probably be doing a lot of US/EU Truck Sim and Dirt Rally, maybe with some PCars or iRacing on the side.
 
I'm looking for a PC wheel setup and have been eyeing the Thrustmaster VG TX kit. Looked like a pretty decent set, is there anything I should know about regarding that set for PC? I'll probably be doing a lot of US/EU Truck Sim and Dirt Rally, maybe with some PCars or iRacing on the side.
Been trying to figure out where this "VG" term comes from... your post is the first I've seen of it, but now I see all the recent Thrustmaster stuff on Amazon.com says "VG" in front of the names...

Are you looking at the TX Italia or the TX Leather set? There should be quite a difference in price, because the TX Leather comes with a much better rim and pedals.

Either way, you should have no problems running a TX on PC with any of the games you mention. However, unless you need Xbox One support, you may want to consider the T300 or T300 Alcantara (PlayStation-compatible equivalents to the TX Italia and TX Leather).
 
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