Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

i was thinking I'd try using the shaft from the stock lever and removing the two plastic nubs from the square gate. If that doesn't work i guess it's Seimitsu.

I did that when I was modding one of my similar sticks, but the shaft doesn't quite line up correctly for this to work without scraping the bottom. The most common way to fit this was to dremel some off the bottom of the shaft so that it wouldn't scrape the plate. The tabs on the JLF gate would also need to be cut down or removed for the same reason.

TBH, surface mounting would work, too, but it's a bit more work because you have to countersink the screws for the stick itself, most of the time. This is also what would work well for the LS33, since that means it requires a bit less work overall.

EDIT: also, on the current topic, can we just do away with 8-button panels and stick to good 6-button layouts and move the other crap to the top or side panels?
 
I think it makes more sense to design a stick for versus than for navigating menus, and in this case since the games are designed for pad-users first (since pad players make up 99.9% of those playing the game) it's better to adhere to that default config as best as possible than to worry about the button labeling

either way it's not the end of the world is it? let's agree to disagree
some way to invert the usage of L1 and R1 in menus could go a long way though. Developers have already started throwing a bone to stick users by providing alternatives to touch pad presses
 
I did that when I was modding one of my similar sticks, but the shaft doesn't quite line up correctly for this to work without scraping the bottom. The most common way to fit this was to dremel some off the bottom of the shaft so that it wouldn't scrape the plate. The tabs on the JLF gate would also need to be cut down or removed for the same reason.

TBH, surface mounting would work, too, but it's a bit more work because you have to countersink the screws for the stick itself, most of the time. This is also what would work well for the LS33, since that means it requires a bit less work overall.

I'm going to follow a guide that hibachi wrote for mounting a JLF in these old HORI cases. I've been playing 4EVO with an old VF4 stick with stock parts for years, it'll be really cool to upgrade to sanwa.

Then, if I could make heads or tails of the 480p widescreen hack...

efbHm1T.jpg
 
I think it makes more sense to design a stick for versus than for navigating menus, and in this case since the games are designed for pad-users first (since pad players make up 99.9% of those playing the game) it's better to adhere to that default config as best as possible than to worry about the button labeling

either way it's not the end of the world is it? let's agree to disagree

Of course it's not a huge deal, but interesting to discuss why they are set up this way and the pros/cons.

I don't care about the labeling itself, just having the navigation reversed is annoying to me, especially on consoles with have more functions and with menus with multiple layers of navigation than just when a console was turn-on, plug-in and play. I also always go into the button config anyway as I like to set up the far right buttons. Rarely do I just plug in and go with the default.
 
On second look, the reds are pretty close. Huge difference in the blue, though. It's an entirely different shade.

The blues look a little weird. How do you like the color?

Reds seem fine. I was planning on getting a set of the reds so it's good to know that they are a pretty standard shade of red.
 
The blues look a little weird. How do you like the color?

Reds seem fine. I was planning on getting a set of the reds so it's good to know that they are a pretty standard shade of red.

I like the blue a lot. It's my favorite color, so any darker blue is fine by me.

Wondering which color I should put in the Panthera when I get home tonight.
 
I like the blue a lot. It's my favorite color, so any darker blue is fine by me.

Wondering which color I should put in the Panthera when I get home tonight.

The blue would probably work best since it's a darker stick. The Panthera is a pretty dark stick and the blue would look better with the Hayabusas I think.

I think you will like the stick. Its feels very nice and sturdy.
 
hi guys,

Just got a HORI HRAP Pro 4 KAI (ps4/3) today,

Whats the best joystick to put into it and which are the best buttons to put into it ?

i find the stick just a tad too loose, but i do like the buttons actually. but if im gonna mod, i rather do it all the way.
 
hi guys,

Just got a HORI HRAP Pro 4 KAI (ps4/3) today,

Whats the best joystick to put into it and which are the best buttons to put into it ?

i find the stick just a tad too loose, but i do like the buttons actually. but if im gonna mod, i rather do it all the way.
you just got it today. spend some more time with it before replacing anything. the parts it has right now are in there because they are the most liked parts available.
 
hi guys,

Just got a HORI HRAP Pro 4 KAI (ps4/3) today,

Whats the best joystick to put into it and which are the best buttons to put into it ?

i find the stick just a tad too loose, but i do like the buttons actually. but if im gonna mod, i rather do it all the way.

You can put a stiffer spring in your current Hayabusa stick to save some cash. The 2lb Sanwa would probably be too stiff for you so try the 1.5lb one.
 
hi guys,

Just got a HORI HRAP Pro 4 KAI (ps4/3) today,

Whats the best joystick to put into it and which are the best buttons to put into it ?

i find the stick just a tad too loose, but i do like the buttons actually. but if im gonna mod, i rather do it all the way.

Is it the old model with the Kuro buttons or the newer model with the Hayabusas? If it has the Hayabusa buttons, I'd say to just keep them as they're really good. The hayabusa stick is good too, but if you find it too loose you can always get a Sanwa stick.
 
Panthera stick is quality. Lots of little details that show thought went into it. Feels so solid like the Madcatz vs, but with the accessibility of a te2. Only bad thing is it seems hard to swap art. Pretty important to me, but no deal breaker.


Swapped out the stick and buttons. Played a few games and love how it feels. Great travel stick.
 
Panthera stick is quality. Lots of little details that show thought went into it. Feels so solid like the Madcatz vs, but with the accessibility of a te2. Only bad thing is it seems hard to swap art. Pretty important to me, but no deal breaker.


Swapped out the stick and buttons. Played a few games and love how it feels. Great travel stick.

Yeah this stick is really great quality. They did a really good job on it. You wouldn't even know you could open it like a TE2 just based on how solid it is. Probably going to be using it as my go to stick for a while.
 
I'm holding out for that fighting edge you guys. All these nice sticks are making it difficult.

You better have something cool Hori!
 
thx for te advice guys

you just got it today. spend some more time with it before replacing anything. the parts it has right now are in there because they are the most liked parts available.

You can put a stiffer spring in your current Hayabusa stick to save some cash. The 2lb Sanwa would probably be too stiff for you so try the 1.5lb one.

i have a SF IV madcatz stick modded with sanwa parts, so maybe i need a little adjusting time with the stick.

Is it the old model with the Kuro buttons or the newer model with the Hayabusas? If it has the Hayabusa buttons, I'd say to just keep them as they're really good. The hayabusa stick is good too, but if you find it too loose you can always get a Sanwa stick.

15826781_10155824167246164_4393981349771737174_n.jpg


that one, but i do like the buttons!!

the worst thing anyone can do is ruin a perfectly good stick for no reason

thats OCD for ya ;)
 
If I wanna change the joystick and buttons on my Venom arcade stick to Sanwa parts, would this be all I need

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FXEM1RW/

Also would I need 1x of this Cable, if so why?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013STLEIG/

Thanks for helping a novice modder out!

edit - my god these items cant be shipped for some reason to sweden, tried both UK and Germany amazon. Any tips where I can buy them? Guess outside of EU will add a bunch to the cost.
 
thx for te advice guys
that one, but i do like the buttons!!

That would be the updated/current one with the better board and Hayabusa buttons.

I'm with bob_arctor that putting a stiffer spring in would be better than outright changing the lever and buttons. a 1.5 gets it to about JLF levels of stiffness, but the 2lb, IMO, is better feeling because even a JLF is loose as hell to me.
 
If I wanna change the joystick and buttons on my Venom arcade stick to Sanwa parts, would this be all I need

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FXEM1RW/

Also would I need 1x of this Cable, if so why?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013STLEIG/

Thanks for helping a novice modder out!

Theoretically, yes, though bear in mind you could also go to somewhere like Arcadeworld and get your choice of button and balltop covers if Red doesn't suit your fancy.

As for the reason for the 5-pin connector, it's to connect the stick to the PCB. The default stick installed in the Venom actually connects each microswitch individually directly to one of four individually grounded two-pin sockets, but there's also a separate unused five pin connector that uses the same common-ground layout that Sanwa/Seimitsu/Hayabusa sticks use. In replacing the stick, you'll be removing the four existing connectors that stock part connects with, and connecting the JLF up to that empty 5 pin connector on the PCB.

(The standard Sanwa cable part for the 5-pin connectors, by the way, only has the connector on one end, and loose cables for soldering or screw terminals on the other, so not much use here)
 
If I wanna change the joystick and buttons on my Venom arcade stick to Sanwa parts, would this be all I need

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FXEM1RW/

Also would I need 1x of this Cable, if so why?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013STLEIG/

Thanks for helping a novice modder out!

edit - my god these items cant be shipped for some reason to sweden, tried both UK and Germany amazon. Any tips where I can buy them? Guess outside of EU will add a bunch to the cost.

I modded my venom sick with sanwa parts. Will link you everything you need from a UK seller in the morning.

Actually no need, see shockdude's post below.
 
If I wanna change the joystick and buttons on my Venom arcade stick to Sanwa parts, would this be all I need

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FXEM1RW/

Also would I need 1x of this Cable, if so why?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013STLEIG/

Thanks for helping a novice modder out!

edit - my god these items cant be shipped for some reason to sweden, tried both UK and Germany amazon. Any tips where I can buy them? Guess outside of EU will add a bunch to the cost.
yeah I'd try ArcadeWorldUK. The parts you need are a JLF-TP-8YT without a cable, a JST-XT female-to-female cable, and eight OBSF-30s. £31.39 not including VAT and shipping.
 
  • Bad news, Focus Attack had to cancel my order since they ended up being out of JLFs when I ordered.
  • Good news, I was refunded & got said JLF from Arcade Shock (& even saved $5 on shipping in the process).
Sure, I'll have to wait longer for the JLF, but at least I saved some cash.
 
  • Bad news, Focus Attack had to cancel my order since they ended up being out of JLFs when I ordered.
  • Good news, I was refunded & got said JLF from Arcade Shock (& even saved $5 on shipping in the process).
Sure, I'll have to wait longer for the JLF, but at least I saved some cash.

i am happy to hear it, i just read this page, and i was afraid you were going to order the parts off thar amazon link, which ship from china! dont risk buying imitations, buy from a reputable place
 
So, I just found an old Hori EX2 in my closet that I forgot I still owned. Is there anything worthwhile to do with it? I opened it up but it looks like the buttons are soldered directly onto the board. Any suggestions?
 
So, I just found an old Hori EX2 in my closet that I forgot I still owned. Is there anything worthwhile to do with it? I opened it up but it looks like the buttons are soldered directly onto the board. Any suggestions?
you can desolder them or you can use a different PCB.
 
I would suggest a different PCB. One of my EX2s died for no reason and it happened to some other folks in the old arcade stick thread like DaCocoaBrova. I think it's just really low quality.
 
you can desolder them or you can use a different PCB.

I would suggest a different PCB. One of my EX2s died for no reason and it happened to some other folks in the old arcade stick thread like DaCocoaBrova. I think it's just really low quality.


It's definitely a low quality stick. Looking into it more, I'm not really sure it's worth the time or effort. I have some parts lying around, but if I was going to buy a new PCB, I'd probably look for something more interesting or at least easier to put everything in. It looks like it's be more effort than it's worth to actually fit a JLF or something inside.
 
It's definitely a low quality stick. Looking into it more, I'm not really sure it's worth the time or effort. I have some parts lying around, but if I was going to buy a new PCB, I'd probably look for something more interesting or at least easier to put everything in. It looks like it's be more effort than it's worth to actually fit a JLF or something inside.
I'm modding an old PS2 HORI stick. sometimes ya do it for the journey
 
Late christmas gift arrived today! :D

V3jc.jpg


X3jc.jpg



Been wanting a silent version stick for a long time. This thing sounds incredibly soft. Love the matte buttons too.

Can play fighters at night more often now :)
Bring on Tekken 7 already! lol
 
yeah I'd try ArcadeWorldUK. The parts you need are a JLF-TP-8YT without a cable, a JST-XT female-to-female cable, and eight OBSF-30s. £31.39 not including VAT and shipping.

Thanks approciated :) Will go with this website. Does these sanwa parts make a click-sound? Was in an arcade today (currently in China) and got reminded how these clicks can be rather loud in the evening in an apartment taking the family Into consideration..I use headphones so click or no click doesent matter to me!
 
Thanks approciated :) Will go with this website. Does these sanwa parts make a click-sound? Was in an arcade today (currently in China) and got reminded how these clicks can be rather loud in the evening in an apartment taking the family Into consideration..I use headphones so click or no click doesent matter to me!
Heck yeah they make click sounds. I personally find the joystick clicking noise really satisfying for some reason.
If you need quieter parts, consider the silent JLF and the silent OBSF-30 buttons. Note that the buttons are quieter but not actually silent, while the joystick is indeed silent.
 
i am happy to hear it, i just read this page, and i was afraid you were going to order the parts off thar amazon link, which ship from china! dont risk buying imitations, buy from a reputable place
Of course, man. But all the same, thanks for your concern & the heads-up.
 
Update on the Panthera:

The box says that it is xinput compatible, but when I plug it into the PC, it registers as a dinput device. I find one youtube video explaining how to install a driver to the stick, but it's not a razer driver and I don't want to mess with that and make the stick not work at all on PC (super not tech savvy and not sure how this stuff works).

I wanted to try out KI with this stick, but I can't right now because I don't know how to make it an xinput device through razer approved/provided instruction.

Edit: I'm dumb. There's an xinput driver on Razer's website. They should probably tell you that this is not xinput out of the box, though.

Edit 2: Not dumb. The driver installs an X360 Controller driver for the panthera, but the PS4 driver is also installed. I still can't play killer instinct. When I test the controller on both drivers, it reads all of my inputs.

Not sure if KI is picking up the right driver? Don't know how to make it default to the xinput driver. I can't remove the PS4 controller, because then the 360 controller doesn't work.

Grah. This is frustrating.
 
arcadeshock order arrived ridiculously fast. sawed off some of the JLF gate but still needs some sanding to fit, then I'll need to cut the actuator down for the shaft to fit.
then i get to desolder since i want to preserve the PCB for some reason.
nice bit of arts and crafts for a snow day.
dude stole everyone's money and ghosted. went from top tier resource to crook within the span on a month or so.
holy shit i had no idea. i ordered a bunch of stuff from him in like 2011.
 
yeah it was sudden too. they just one day started delaying order, told people to keep ordering and they would get to everyone, then the site went down and all attempts to contact were ignored.
 
arcadeshock order arrived ridiculously fast. sawed off some of the JLF gate but still needs some sanding to fit, then I'll need to cut the actuator down for the shaft to fit.
then i get to desolder since i want to preserve the PCB for some reason.
nice bit of arts and crafts for a snow day.

holy shit i had no idea. i ordered a bunch of stuff from him in like 2011.
That gives me hope.
 
Damnit again too late with those Hayabusa buttons.

Have been toying around with the idea of getting silent Sanwas to replace Kuros. Are the silenced buttons actually more silent?
 
Not sure if KI is picking up the right driver? Don't know how to make it default to the xinput driver. I can't remove the PS4 controller, because then the 360 controller doesn't work.

Grah. This is frustrating.

KI screwed up controller support a few updates ago. A lot of 360 and X-input controllers that worked before don't now, even though they appear correctly in Windows in the game controller properties where you can check buttons and in other games. It sounds like it works fine, but is just the game.
 
KI screwed up controller support a few updates ago. A lot of 360 and X-input controllers that worked before don't now, even though they appear correctly in Windows in the game controller properties where you can check buttons and in other games. It sounds like it works fine, but is just the game.

That must be it. It's not letting me change controls via dinput in sf5.
 
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