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[Aesius]

I bought the 55" Vizio LED on during the Amazon lightning sale.

I just got it hooked up to my computer, and I'm having some weird issues with it.

Namely, there seems to be some really strong color distortion in games when I move the camera. For example, moving the camera in Skyrim turns the ground and almost all background details a dark shade of purple. It's a subtle effect but very noticeable once you're looking for it.

I played Max Payne 3 and it didn't seem to happen, but it does happen in Bioshock Infinite and distractingly so in Tomb Raider. It almost looks like chromatic aberration in that it appears on the edges of lines.

Imagine this but in games, and only when the camera moves:

I also notice it on text when scrolling on dark backgrounds (like GAF). Interestingly, it doesn't seem to happen on GTAV on my Xbox 360.

Is this just a case of the TV and my graphics card (Visiontek 7850) not getting along, or is something wrong with the TV?

 

[Torraz]

Hello
I think i have a problem wirh my new tf101 pad.

Whenever I push the physical button to decease the audio, the audio goes all the way to 0. Furthermore, the audio indicator stays visible, even at 0. This leads me to believe that the system somehow recognizes a simple press of the button as an infinite long push?

When I press the audio up button, everything works fine.

Does this sound fixable, or do I need to return the unit?

Thanks.

 

[wsoxfan1214]

So I got an HP Pavilion DV7 from Best Buy about three years ago. Somewhere along the line, I had to format it.

Problem is, it had two graphics cards. One for heavy use like gaming and one for normal computing, which you could switch to. Now I no longer have the option to switch after installing default windows.

Is there anywhere I could find the place to download a recovery disc for this PC or to find something to switch the graphics? Nothing I try helps.

Thanks in advance.

 

[DarkLegion]

My question was at the bottom of a page and never got answered, hope you guys don't mind me pasting it here again

Recently got FiOS, steam and programs like that work great when I download my games but if I try to download something via web browsers I only get something slow like 180 kb/s. I've had friends use the same link and they get 1.9 mb/s and aren't on FiOS. Anything I can do about this?

I tried releasing/renewing IP, resetting router, changing ethernet ports and port forwarding(though I'm not sure I did this right).

Speed test is 57/19

 

[AlteredBeast]

Reset my computer completely. Fresh Windows install. Trackpad is absolute GARBAGE now. I mean, this is impossible to use. If I try to make small, precise movements, my cursor just kind of hops around at 10-20 pixel window, making selecting links, etc impossible.

This only happens randomly, then it goes back to normal. I have an ASUS B43S with an Elantech trackpad (absolutely garbage!). I have tried the recommended driver for my laptop from ASUS, an updated one I found somewhere else, as well as the current one I am using which I believe belongs to a different machine altogether.

WTF?

Any help APPRECIATED!

 

[Batigol]

Best tablet for someone who's never had one? (not me)

I don't know which one to buy

 

[nan0]

Best tablet for someone who's never had one? (not me)

I don't know which one to buy

Nexus 7.

 

[Nakazato]

Hey guys getting having a issue with my GF's Laptop

BSOD: Bad_Pool_caller (0x00000099, 0xb99b87d8, 0x00000000, 0x00000000)

any tips ?

 

[ambientmystic]

Hey guys getting having a issue with my GF's Laptop

BSOD: Bad_Pool_caller (0x00000099, 0xb99b87d8, 0x00000000, 0x00000000)

any tips ?

According to Microsoft, it has potentially something to do with bad drivers on your Windows 7/8 system.

From the social.technet.microsoft.com forums:-

The BAD_POOL_CALLER bug check has a value of 0x000000C2. This indicates that the current thread is making a bad pool request.

http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/ff560185(v=vs.85).aspx


Hi, please enable Driver verifier to get the causing driver:

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/101379-driver-verifier-enable-disable.html

http://support.microsoft.com/?kbid=244617

when you get a new BSOD, boot to safe mode, disable driver verifier, reboot to normal mode and upload the newest dmp file from the folder C:\Windows\Minidump to your public SkyDrive [1] folder and post the link here.

Another simpler explanation.

 

[WanderingWind]

I need to be able to setup a keyboard macro on my laptop. What is the best way to do that? I see a lot of third-party programs, is there a trusted standard for something like that?

 

[Rufus]

http://www.autohotkey.com/

 

[MMBosstones86]

hey TechGAF, looking for some help.

I've had my rig stable for about 8 months now with no issues. All of a sudden last week it started crashing and rebooting randomly. I've tied it to 'intensive programs', but havn't been able to track down the cause.

When I say 'crash', it will literally shut off and reboot out of nowhere. No blue screen, lock ups or anything.

I recently cleaned out the case, so heat / temps is not the problem.

I've checked the event viewer and all I can see is "computer shut off unexpectedly" from Kernal Power. Can't see anything else related to the crash.

I've ran memtest, but after loading up 4 to test all the memory...it crashes as well. I tried with 2 memtest's open and it crashed after a few minutes.

I'm a little lost with what direction to go with and I'm still not sure which component is causing the failure. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[O.DOGG]

hey TechGAF, looking for some help.

I've had my rig stable for about 8 months now with no issues. All of a sudden last week it started crashing and rebooting randomly. I've tied it to 'intensive programs', but havn't been able to track down the cause.

When I say 'crash', it will literally shut off and reboot out of nowhere. No blue screen, lock ups or anything.

I recently cleaned out the case, so heat / temps is not the problem.

I've checked the event viewer and all I can see is "computer shut off unexpectedly" from Kernal Power. Can't see anything else related to the crash.

I've ran memtest, but after loading up 4 to test all the memory...it crashes as well. I tried with 2 memtest's open and it crashed after a few minutes.

I'm a little lost with what direction to go with and I'm still not sure which component is causing the failure. Any help would be appreciated.

Try testing the memory sticks one at a time. Also, it may be the power supply dying but test that memory first.

 

[WanderingWind]

http://www.autohotkey.com/

That works, thank you much

 

[accx]

I've ran memtest, but after loading up 4 to test all the memory...it crashes as well. I tried with 2 memtest's open and it crashed after a few minutes.

What do you mean by this? You shouldn't run memtest in windows.
Create a bootable usb stick with the automated installer available on the website.
Run memtest during the night or something because it's recommended to let it run for a couple of hours.
You can monitor it during the first 30 minutes or so, to see if it fails.
Then you can start ruling out which stick it is by just having one installed, run memtest for a couple of hours and moving on to the next one.

Have you checked your temperatures? How did you clean out your computer?
The reason i'm asking is because even though you've cleaned it something might be loose. You could try running Prime95 to check cpu temps, just in case.
My personal favourite temp monitor is hwmonitor.

If you are overclocking, remove those settings to see if that increases stability.

 

[MMBosstones86]

Try testing the memory sticks one at a time. Also, it may be the power supply dying but test that memory first.

will do. Hope its not the PSU, thing is only a few months old

What do you mean by this? You shouldn't run memtest in windows.
Create a bootable usb stick with the automated installer available on the website.
Run memtest during the night or something because it's recommended to let it run for a couple of hours.
You can monitor it during the first 30 minutes or so, to see if it fails.
Then you can start ruling out which stick it is by just having one installed, run memtest for a couple of hours and moving on to the next one.

Have you checked your temperatures? How did you clean out your computer?
The reason i'm asking is because even though you've cleaned it something might be loose. You could try running Prime95 to check cpu temps, just in case.
My personal favourite temp monitor is hwmonitor.

If you are overclocking, remove those settings to see if that increases stability.

Checked the temps us HWMonitor. Nothing out of the ordinary. I cleaned out the computer last night using compressed air and removing the filters, This has been going on for a half week or so before that.

I'll check the overclocking, but seems strange the system would be stable for so long and all of a sudden act up with no changes.

Thanks for the help guys, i'll check on these and report back this evening.

 

[More_Badass]

Been having an issue for a few weeks now. My laptop is just notoriously hard to keep charging. I can't just plug in the cable; it won't register. Sometimes pressing against the charger port/input (not exactly what it's called) works, sometimes it doesn't. I've been resorting to jamming it against the edge of my desk to keep it charging all night.

Any ideas how to fix this or what the issue might be?

 

[accx]

Snip..

Yea, i would remove the overclock first and run prime95 or the software that's been prone to cause the shut down before anything else. If it runs fine there's likely no hardware failure at least.
Have you considered drivers? I'm asking if you might've updated any recently or so. Although if you're not experiencing BSOD's thats unlikely..

Hardware deteriorate after a while, depending on usage. Especially PSU's. If you had an extremely high overclock it might've pushed it too hard. After just 8 months there shouldn't be any signs of that though.

Let us know if you pinpoint it!

Been having an issue for a few weeks now. My laptop is just notoriously hard to keep charging. I can't just plug in the cable; it won't register. Sometimes pressing against the charger port/input (not exactly what it's called) works, sometimes it doesn't. I've been resorting to jamming it against the edge of my desk to keep it charging all night.

Any ideas how to fix this or what the issue might be?

The good news is that it might be the charger, which you should be able to replace by buying a new one.
The bad news is that it could be the connector on the laptop itself is starting to wear out, which is not replaceable at all. You'd have to send it in for repairs because your logic board is likely to be replaced.
I would suggest not forcing it because that might make it worse but instead try out a new charger.
I hope you have warranty ;/

Edit:
If you do need to send it in for repairs, remember to backup all your data before sending it in.

 

[AColdDay]

At work I am unable to log in to the Wi-Fi connection on my Galaxy S3. It keeps telling me that my username password combination is invalid on the verification landing page.

I would normally just assume that I am about to be fired, but it is the same username/password combination that I use to log into my my main computer and my 3rd Generation Kindle seems to have no problems connecting to the Wi-Fi. The only thing that can't connect is my phone.

Other people are able to use their phones to connect to the network, so I know it is possible. This has been going on for a few weeks. It seems like such a trivial thing to bother IT about, so I figured I would ask here to see if anyone had any insight.

 

[More_Badass]

Yea, i would remove the overclock first and run prime95 or the software that's been prone to cause the shut down before anything else. If it runs fine there's likely no hardware failure at least.
Have you considered drivers? I'm asking if you might've updated any recently or so. Although if you're not experiencing BSOD's thats unlikely..

Hardware deteriorate after a while, depending on usage. Especially PSU's. If you had an extremely high overclock it might've pushed it too hard. After just 8 months there shouldn't be any signs of that though.

Let us know if you pinpoint it!




The good news is that it might be the charger, which you should be able to replace by buying a new one.
The bad news is that it could be the connector on the laptop itself is starting to wear out, which is not replaceable at all. You'd have to send it in for repairs because your logic board is likely to be replaced.
I would suggest not forcing it because that might make it worse but instead try out a new charger.
I hope you have warranty ;/

Edit:
If you do need to send it in for repairs, remember to backup all your data before sending it in.

Thank you. I was expecting that it might be the laptop.

The metal charger part is sometimes very hot when I remove it, so I think it's probably an issue with the laptop rather than the charger. Good thing Christmas is right around the corner. I was planning to get a new laptop for gaming so I guess it's that time.

I already had to do a factory reset a few weeks ago after a Blue Screen of Death. Thankfully I was able to restore most of my music and important documents. I have that stuff backed up on Dropbox and Google Drive now

 

[MMBosstones86]

Yea, i would remove the overclock first and run prime95 or the software that's been prone to cause the shut down before anything else. If it runs fine there's likely no hardware failure at least.
Have you considered drivers? I'm asking if you might've updated any recently or so. Although if you're not experiencing BSOD's thats unlikely..

Hardware deteriorate after a while, depending on usage. Especially PSU's. If you had an extremely high overclock it might've pushed it too hard. After just 8 months there shouldn't be any signs of that though.

Let us know if you pinpoint it!

well. Memtest passed fine after running for an hour. Booted up and ran Prime95 and it crashed after a minute. Didn't get a chance to check the temps, but I'm pretty positive they weren't that high.

I had previously tweaked some settings in the BIOS to push to 4.0Ghz (which shouldn't be enough to do his), so I reset to defaults in the BIOS and now I can't even boot to windows. I get to the desktop and immediately a BSOD. I've seen STOP errors of 7e and 1e. I have no clue what happened....

edit : oh a new one. Page Fault in a nonpaged area : STOP 0x50

edit 2 : ....running MemTest again and already found 160 errors in the first few minutes. Looks like it might be the RAM

 

[Pancakes]

Odd problem I'm having now with my newly installed SSD.

I have an old 7200 rpm HDD with windows 7 installed on it and I recently installed (the same version) of windows on the SSD. The SSD itself works perfectly fine and runs super fast but sometimes it will fail to boot properly and I need to run the windows recovery tool on my flash drive to make it run.

The error seems to be with winload.exe, I've tried several google solutions none of which have really helped. I'm kinda stumped now.

Error looks like:

Windows failed to start. A Recent hardware or software change might be the cause. To fix the problem:
1. Insert your windows installation disc and restart your computer.
2. Choose your language settings, and then click next
3. Click "repair your computer."
Status: 0xc000000e

 

[accx]

well. Memtest passed fine after running for an hour. Booted up and ran Prime95 and it crashed after a minute. Didn't get a chance to check the temps, but I'm pretty positive they weren't that high.

I had previously tweaked some settings in the BIOS to push to 4.0Ghz (which shouldn't be enough to do his), so I reset to defaults in the BIOS and now I can't even boot to windows. I get to the desktop and immediately a BSOD. I've seen STOP errors of 7e and 1e. I have no clue what happened....

edit : oh a new one. Page Fault in a nonpaged area : STOP 0x50

edit 2 : ....running MemTest again and already found 160 errors in the first few minutes. Looks like it might be the RAM

Before resetting BIOS to default did you have any other settings changed that wasn't related to OC?
Specifically AHCI? If you had it enabled prior to the reset it's possible it defaulted to something like "SATA/IDE Mode".
This might be the cause of not being able to boot to windows at all.

Try running memtest with only one stick in, preferably on the first slot. If you're seeing error within minutes with that one, shut down and replace it with another stick and repeat.

Mind posting your specs? I could skim through your motherboard manual and see what type of settings that should be fine.

Snip...

Did you do a clean install on the SSD?
Have you enabled AHCI in bios prior to installing windows 7 on the SSD? This is entirely optional. You should not enable it after you've done an OS install if you never had it enabled in the first place because it will result in BSOD's.
Have you checked if there's any firmware updates for your SSD?

I'm not certain if it should matter whether there's another win7 install on another drive but that might be something to look into as well.

Also, check the manufacturers site for the SSD after diagnostics software.

What brand/model is it?

 

[jaxword]

On my white samsung mini, it constantly heats up and seems to be draining battery. It's not the camera left on...

Any idea what this could be?

I know there's a way to bring up all the currently-running-programs, but I can't remember how to bring up that screen. It lists them all in a scrolling up-down menu with little icons representing the programs, i.e. the internet browser still on the last page, the camera, any games in background, etc.

Any idea how to bring up that program list?

 

[MMBosstones86]

Before resetting BIOS to default did you have any other settings changed that wasn't related to OC?
Specifically AHCI? If you had it enabled prior to the reset it's possible it defaulted to something like "SATA/IDE Mode".
This might be the cause of not being able to boot to windows at all.

Try running memtest with only one stick in, preferably on the first slot. If you're seeing error within minutes with that one, shut down and replace it with another stick and repeat.

Mind posting your specs? I could skim through your motherboard manual and see what type of settings that should be fine.

Thanks for the help. After some more testing, looks like one of the sticks is bad. Memtest showed about 29k errors after an hour. I tested each stick separately and finally got it to boot to windows with only one. Ran prime95 (which previous caused a restart) and everything went fine.

Played a game for a while as well with no issues.

I checked some of the settings in the BIOS and everything looked acceptable. Must have been the bad stick causing all the problems. It's a shame because I only bought these in March of last year. I have an email into Corsair to see what can be done.

Thanks for helping me out guys!

 

[SBH]

I got a question about drivers for AMD Radeon HD 6650M.

I just fixed my old laptop Acer Aspire 5552g and formatted the hard drive and installed Windows 7. Well, I had installed more updated drivers in the past then what Acer has on their website (from 2011). I can't remember what I used, but they worked well.

Now when I tried various ones that actually installed meaning not giving me a "supported hardware not installed", I managed to jam the whole Windows couple of times and had to re-install Windows. I got them mainly from Guru3d as I remember getting ones that worked from there before. I also tried the official Mobile Catalyst drivers from AMD and got them to install with disabling the digital signatures check. It jammed again.

I was just wondering if someone has this 6650M with more updated drivers and could point them out to me. It's not a necessity as I don't really play a lot with this laptop, but I like to get most out of things I have.

 

[AColdDay]

At work I am unable to log in to the Wi-Fi connection on my Galaxy S3. It keeps telling me that my username password combination is invalid on the verification landing page.

I would normally just assume that I am about to be fired, but it is the same username/password combination that I use to log into my my main computer and my 3rd Generation Kindle seems to have no problems connecting to the Wi-Fi. The only thing that can't connect is my phone.

Other people are able to use their phones to connect to the network, so I know it is possible. This has been going on for a few weeks. It seems like such a trivial thing to bother IT about, so I figured I would ask here to see if anyone had any insight.

Alright, I think I figured it out. It has something to do with my password automatic fill-in. If I fill in my username and then fill out my password, when I type the last digit of my password I noticed that there were more characters in the field then what I typed. I thought I hit the letter one too many times so I backspaced. This gave me the familiar error. This tells me that either Lastpass or whatever built-in password manager that is in Dolphin is trying to fill in a password that I use on the domain for something else (like our HR webpage) instead of what I actually typed in.

However, when I hit the authentication page but type in my password first and then go up to my user name, I logged in fine.

 

[MrPressStart]

Deleted. Got an answer. Thanks Gaf.

 

[Pancakes]

Did you do a clean install on the SSD?
Have you enabled AHCI in bios prior to installing windows 7 on the SSD? This is entirely optional. You should not enable it after you've done an OS install if you never had it enabled in the first place because it will result in BSOD's.
Have you checked if there's any firmware updates for your SSD?

I'm not certain if it should matter whether there's another win7 install on another drive but that might be something to look into as well.

Also, check the manufacturers site for the SSD after diagnostics software.

What brand/model is it?

I managed to get it fixed. Apparently I had the old HDD listed as the primary in the bios even though the boot order was not set that way. Guess that was causing the SSD to lock up or something.

It's been working now after several restarts. Thanks for the help.

 

[Sun Drugs]

Hi, I was looking to get help on a problem.

I was trying to get an old computer up and running again, but I can't seem to be able to install Windows 7 on it. The first time I tried, it would work fine until somewhere in the expanding Windows files when it would just freeze. Tried it a couple of more times and it would do the same thing at different stages.

So I tried it with a brand new hard drive. The installation took several hours...like 4. When I finally got to the desktop, it would randomly freeze and then start up again. Really weird.

I forget the exact specs of the computer as I am not home right now...I know it has a Q6600 with 4GB of RAM. It had an AMD 7770 (I think) and I installed a 7950 on it to try to get it up and running to mine crypto currencies. Not sure what motherboard, other than that it is a microATX and uses SATA for the drives. I tried google, and I read somewhere that enabling ACHI may help but I looked in the BIOS and see no such option.

 

[mrmisterwaa]

Alright, I think I figured it out. It has something to do with my password automatic fill-in. If I fill in my username and then fill out my password, when I type the last digit of my password I noticed that there were more characters in the field then what I typed. I thought I hit the letter one too many times so I backspaced. This gave me the familiar error. This tells me that either Lastpass or whatever built-in password manager that is in Dolphin is trying to fill in a password that I use on the domain for something else (like our HR webpage) instead of what I actually typed in.

However, when I hit the authentication page but type in my password first and then go up to my user name, I logged in fine.

I would try looking into the keyboard app you are using and to see if it an issue that is related to any Applications running on Android. Aside from that it sounds like something (as you said) it just be an add-on/application trying to auto-fill. Try to find which Applications have access to your browser and to see if you can disable their auto-fill functions.

Hi, I was looking to get help on a problem.

I was trying to get an old computer up and running again, but I can't seem to be able to install Windows 7 on it. The first time I tried, it would work fine until somewhere in the expanding Windows files when it would just freeze. Tried it a couple of more times and it would do the same thing at different stages.

So I tried it with a brand new hard drive. The installation took several hours...like 4. When I finally got to the desktop, it would randomly freeze and then start up again. Really weird.

I forget the exact specs of the computer as I am not home right now...I know it has a Q6600 with 4GB of RAM. It had an AMD 7770 (I think) and I installed a 7950 on it to try to get it up and running to mine crypto currencies. Not sure what motherboard, other than that it is a microATX and uses SATA for the drives. I tried google, and I read somewhere that enabling ACHI may help but I looked in the BIOS and see no such option.

Since it is a consistent issue that goes past different hard drives. I would look into running a memtest ( http://www.memtest.org/ ) and check to see if you get any errors.

Aside from that the I do not have that much experience with AMD-based processors & graphics card but it might be related to using to your recent upgrade from a 7950 as your power supply might not have the ability to power everything up.

Please confirm the power supply, type of RAM & motherboard type to help you find how to enable AHCI (doesn't fix anything aside from a tiny performance boost - which might only benefit your new hard drive.)

Once you advise me there are no errors, I would recommend you try to look into low-level-formatting your drives to ensure it is not one of those HDD problems.

 

[accx]

Snip...

It's more than likely RAM and/or motherboard related.
Are you sure the PSU can handle a 7950?

You could try booting up a Linux live distro and see if that's fine. Ubuntu should do.

UBCD Have several diagnostics tools available for hard drives. You could try doing extended scans on both your drives.

Low Level Format should not be necessary even if that sometimes (rarely) revives drives.

Are you certain that the win7 install source (the usb stick or dvd or whatever you used) isn't
corrupt?

AHCI Should be enabled prior to installation of OS, although it's not related to your problem. NCQ is nice to have because of the small performance boost but its negligible.

Have you tried defaulting your BIOS settings?

Running memtest is recommended at least.
If you still have that 7770 lying around you could try popping that in and see if it boots to the windows installation.

EDIT:
The more i thought about it the more likely it seems to be a SATA Controller issue.
Might be fixable with a PCI-E to SATA Controller Card. I wouldn't go out and buy one until we've figured it out though.

Here's what i'd do:
Unplug anything unnecessary. Leave CPU FAN, RAM and GPU installed. Check that everything's properly connected from the PSU.
Run with the 7700 If it's available just in case.

Reset BIOS to default settings. Either via clearing CMOS or just in the BIOS Settings.
How To Clear CMOS.

(optional)Enable AHCI (NOTE! This will cause your current windows installation to not boot).

Install UBCD on a USB Stick.
This contains all the tools necessary for testing drives, memory and a bunch of other stuff.

Run memtest for 2+ hours.
If there's errors, remove all and then test one stick at a time. This is tedious but it's necessary.

Shut down and install the new HDD.
Run UBCD again and find the proper diagnostics software for your drive.
This will be under HDD/Diagnostics.
Run a Extended Test. This might take a couple of hours depending on the size of the drive.
If it seems like it's going insanely slow, like your Windows 7 installation, it's likely motherboard related. 6-8 hours for a 2TB disk is what you'd expect.

If the computer shuts down unexpectedly during any of these tests i would suspect the Power Supply. It's possible it could be related to something else as well though.
If you have another computer with a good, known to function PSU you could try with that.
Just remember to see if it's rated to be able to run the 7950/7700.
If you're testing with another PSU, just go directly to doing a new windows 7 installation.

 

[accx]

I managed to get it fixed. Apparently I had the old HDD listed as the primary in the bios even though the boot order was not set that way. Guess that was causing the SSD to lock up or something.

It's been working now after several restarts. Thanks for the help.

Haha, glad to hear. Sometimes it's the smallest things that can cause head aches.

 

[Sun Drugs]

Thank you mrmisterwaa and accx!

accx, I should mention that these problems were occurring when it still had the 7770 (I bought the 7950 and the new hard drive at the same time) and the PSU is something like a Corsair CX600M, so I believe it should be able to handle the 7950.

Here is what I did last night. I ran UBCD and tested one of the Hard Drives. It is a Western Digital so I ran the appropriate diagnostic utility and it passed (this was the quick test though, not the extended). I restarted the computer to run Memtest but now I do not get a display. The computer is running, but nothing appears on the screen.

One thing I forgot to mention, and I barely realized it when you mentioned the SATA controller. The CD ROM drive had been giving me issues. It showed up as a device in BIOS but when I tried to set the boot order priority, I was not able to selected it. So I disconnected it and used an external drive, which is how I tried to install Windows.

A few days ago when I started the computer, during the screen where it tells you the keys to press to get into BIOS setup it would say something like "ATAPI not compatible -- Press F1 to continue." This was after I disconnected the CD ROM, so only one hard drive is connected and nothing else. This message was still showing up yesterday.

Later tonight I will clear the CMOS to see if I can get it to start again.

 

[PseudoKirby]

ok looking to get some insight on this.

I have a Dell XPS 710 with a 1000 watt power supply. it recently shut off and wont come back on, only an Orange blinking light.

according to dell people the Orange blinking LED means a bad power supply or one going bad.

I have isolated it to the Video card, the system starts up with no problem. could it be the power supply cant handle the video card anymore or that the video card has a short? Is that even plausible?



its not a powerful video card really, Radeon HD 6570

I dont have a power supply tester nor do I have any video cards to switch out
I dont want to risk buying a new video card and it being the PSU

 

[Ave22]

I have an Acer Aspire M Intel Core i5 laptop that I bought in April this year. When I started playing games on the laptop just a couple weeks ago, I noticed that the laptop had been making a lot of noise. I thought it was normal as the fan was speeding up. The thing is, the fan doesn't seem to slow down. Over the weeks, it has become much louder. I have noticed that the noise gets louder as I tilt the laptop. Bringing the keyboard to a 90 degree angle to the ground, the noise and fan seem to go out of control. On a flat surface, it is moderately loud. I can get the noise to settle down by gently tapping the entire laptop on the desk, but that is not something I want to be doing all the time. Google results suggest the laptop may be overheating, but the noise starts as soon as I turn the laptop on, even after being off for a day.

I have opened up the laptop and sprayed compressed air over the fan, but it didn't help. I would appreciate any help in this matter.

 

[accx]

Thank you mrmisterwaa and accx!

accx, I should mention that these problems were occurring when it still had the 7770 (I bought the 7950 and the new hard drive at the same time) and the PSU is something like a Corsair CX600M, so I believe it should be able to handle the 7950.

Here is what I did last night. I ran UBCD and tested one of the Hard Drives. It is a Western Digital so I ran the appropriate diagnostic utility and it passed (this was the quick test though, not the extended). I restarted the computer to run Memtest but now I do not get a display. The computer is running, but nothing appears on the screen.

One thing I forgot to mention, and I barely realized it when you mentioned the SATA controller. The CD ROM drive had been giving me issues. It showed up as a device in BIOS but when I tried to set the boot order priority, I was not able to selected it. So I disconnected it and used an external drive, which is how I tried to install Windows.

A few days ago when I started the computer, during the screen where it tells you the keys to press to get into BIOS setup it would say something like "ATAPI not compatible -- Press F1 to continue." This was after I disconnected the CD ROM, so only one hard drive is connected and nothing else. This message was still showing up yesterday.

Later tonight I will clear the CMOS to see if I can get it to start again.

If you're testing the hard drives, run extended. Quick does nothing.
That said, it does sound like a motherboard problem.

PSU is fine and can handle the gpu. Hard drive should be the last thing to be tested at this point.
See if you can run memtest again.. Although it's really not necessary, tbh.
The motherboard is faulty. I can almost guarantee it.

 

[RS4-]

Ugh, cross posting from PC thread

We used to or still have PC troubleshooting thread right? I'll ask here just in case there isn't one anymore.

Completely wiped 7 and did a fresh install of 8.1 a few weeks ago an on SSD; just random issues that get annoying.

- lately when I empty the recycling bin, it takes a handful of seconds before it asks me for confirmation.
- file explorer > then access the E drive, or anything but C (SSD), it takes time to actually populate the contents of that specific partition. There's no pattern to it, it just randomly does it.
- random mini lockup/freeze in FF if I open a link from Skype, iRC, etc. then, go back to normal.

Every single one of these are just completely inconsistent when it happens.

Can't remember what else has been bothering me, but these are off the top of my head.

Any thoughts? Never had anything like this in 7.

Oh, re: the HDD thing, even after running it through Defraggler, same thing.

 

[mako]

Ugh, cross posting from PC thread

What SSD is it? I mean it could be as simple as updating the firmware on it...but I'd need a bit more information.

 

[RS4-]

What SSD is it? I mean it could be as simple as updating the firmware on it...but I'd need a bit more information.

Intel 320, most up to date fw.

 

[mako]

Intel 320, most up to date fw.

Let me know if this isn't on the right path (or it's a page you've already come across).
http://superuser.com/questions/488782/intel-ssd-330-lags-on-windows-8

 

[RS4-]

Let me know if this isn't on the right path (or it's a page you've already come across).
http://superuser.com/questions/488782/intel-ssd-330-lags-on-windows-8

I've always had hibernate off and I run the toolbox weekly.

But looking through the power options > hard disk > turn off after _20 mins_

Is that something I should leave? I don't recall ever having to change something like that in W7. Unless this is strictly an external hard drive matter, then that doesn't affect me.

 

[accx]

I've always had hibernate off and I run the toolbox weekly.

But looking through the power options > hard disk > turn off after _20 mins_

Is that something I should leave? I don't recall ever having to change something like that in W7. Unless this is strictly an external hard drive matter, then that doesn't affect me.

Turn that off. From personal experience i've had hdd's fail more often because of excessive spin downs. Though, If you have an external drive it's probably good to let it spin down at least. If you were to drop it for whatever reason i think it's more likely it would survive the fall if it was spun down.
Internal drives should not have to spin down as said.
Did you turn off hibernation via Power settings as well as running that command cmd prompt?
Did you ever have the problem in Windows 7?

Have you checked if there's any Chipset drivers for your motherboard?

EDIT:
It sounds excessive to run the Toolbox weekly. I have no idea what it does, personally, but any kind of "optimizer" (if that's what it is) usually just end up creating more wear and tear rather than speed things up.
People swear by doing monthly defragmentations for example but i feel that it's just excessive.

 

[Heel]

Why can't I download files larger than 2 GB in Chrome, but in Firefox I can? Recently m downloads in Chrome stop at exactly 2 gigs, and I'm not sure why.

 

[Ecto311]

Not sure if anyone here would know but I am looking for a share point or HTML code set that would allow me to tick off boxes and make a note at the bottom then hit "copy" and have it all dump to the clip board and be able to paste it into something else


Like this:
[] one
[] two
"Box here for entry"
Words for notes

Then the output to the clipboard would be something like this

X one
X two
Notes: words for notes


If the boxes not clicked it doesn't need to output anything to the save


Hope this makes since since I'm posting it from my phone and thanks a ton if someone has a resource or place to get this info

 

[AlteredBeast]

Reset my computer completely. Fresh Windows install. Trackpad is absolute GARBAGE now. I mean, this is impossible to use. If I try to make small, precise movements, my cursor just kind of hops around at 10-20 pixel window, making selecting links, etc impossible.

This only happens randomly, then it goes back to normal. I have an ASUS B43S with an Elantech trackpad (absolutely garbage!). I have tried the recommended driver for my laptop from ASUS, an updated one I found somewhere else, as well as the current one I am using which I believe belongs to a different machine altogether. I had this problem initially purchased the computer but had fixed it somehow before, can't remember how exactly now!

WTF?

Any help APPRECIATED!

Offering up 5 dollar amazon gift card to anyone that fixes this.

When I restart my computer, it works fine for a few minutes until I open up a program or whatever. This shit is aggravating. Especially ridiculous when trying to copy/paste things or select very small links...

 

[Smilax]

So about a year ago, an object went inside my laptop and messed up my fan. I was able to remove it but the fan would no longer work. Now today, the fan just started up again with it's normal RPM. Should I be concerned?

I also ran Diagnostics and it said it was good.

Edit: Just ran some Stress Tests to test the fan, temps, and voltage. Everything checked out as normal.

 

[DodgyGeezerFella]

Anyone able to help me with this strange issue i have, where when trying to view Imgur images, sometimes they load pretty quickly, sometimes they load about half way, stop, and i have to wait about 5 minutes for the rest to load, or i have to sometimes wait 5/10 minutes before it even attempts to load it up.

I did a bit of googling, and people suggest it could be something to do with DNS. Ive never really delved into networking stuff, but i tried some suggestions like using google's public DNS IP's, but doesnt seem to have made a difference.

I cant seem to find anyway to use other DNS servers either on my router (BT Home Hub), so im a loss for what to do. Anybody have any ideas ?

 

[Azulsky]

Okay TechGAF I am at a loss.

I have VmWare 9 and a 1080p monitor.

I am developing for a 1680x1050 monitor but the GUI resolution is set at 1280x1024

So I need to stretch a 4:3 res onto a VmWare display set to a 16:10 ratio and map that onto a 16:9 monitor without scaling(black bars).

Is this possible?

HostOS is Win7, Guest is WinXP

 

[shinjijai]

Okay TechGAF I am at a loss.

I have VmWare 9 and a 1080p monitor.

I am developing for a 1680x1050 monitor but the GUI resolution is set at 1280x1024

So I need to stretch a 4:3 res onto a VmWare display set to a 16:10 ratio and map that onto a 16:9 monitor without scaling(black bars).

Is this possible?

HostOS is Win7, Guest is WinXP

Did you install VMWare tools? If not, I suggest you do, so you gain more resolutions.