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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

Cross posting from the Build thread in Gaming.

Ok, so I'm still pretty fucked. I keep getting error code A2 from Dr. Debug on my ASRock Extreme4. The chide is for IDE/SATA problems. I've pulled out both GPUs, unplugged all SATA devices and cleared CMOS but nothing. In worried something is truly fucked.

I'll go ahead and admit I did something kind of completely stupid. When a screw fell into the space between the cooler and the PCB on my card, I got frustrated and flipped the computer horizontally and gave it a shake for a few seconds (its so heavy I didn't get much of a shake in.). It seems like that must have done something because it hadn't worked since then (though I didn't try until after I had the new card in.)

Any thoughts or tips?
 

t-ramp

Member
Cross posting from the PS4 thread since it'll probably get answered here



I logged out of some other sites and logged back in and this warning didn't pop up so I don't think it's a virus on my end or anything like that. Malwarebytes scan was also clean.

edit: I noticed some recommendations on google for flushing DNS that might fix it but it didn't. Still only seems to be affecting playstation's log in on their various web sites.
This happens when I log into our website management interface at work. It's probably just because the site tries to redirect in a way that can be dangerous, but I doubt that it's actually a security problem. Did you try to log in from another browser?
 

MrBig

Member
cross posting from the "stupid questions thread"

my internet hates me or my computer hates me. One or the other.

OK my issue is a stupid one, because I have looked online and even called my ISP to deal with it and they are no help.

My internet has decided that it will only connect to some sites. I can go to Yahoo, but I can't do a websearch. I ran all virus software and malware software and no problems came up. I cant update my windows files because it will just hang and stop downloading because it wont connect.

I reset my router, reset my modem, called my ISP to have them reset stuff on their end and help me out. Nothing has helped. Am I screwed here? I have reformatted my computer to stock to see if that would help and nothing changed. I need help to the highest degree and honestly, out of ideas.

also to add, the same thing happens if Im using wifi through my phone. I can go to youtube on it, but cant search. But if I set it to 4g, it will search no problem and give results. But also if I use wifi on my laptop, it will connect and search and have no hang ups.

EDIT: Forgot to add that the problem happens on all web browsers, IE,Firefox, Chrome.

What happens when you browse directly to an IP instead of using a domain name of a site that isn't working? For example, 74.125.239.103 is a google IP.

Also try running a traceroute in cmd to a blocked address and see what it shows

It may be a DNS issue, which your computer and ISP don't necessarily control. If that's the case you can manually set a DNS.
 

Heysoos

Member
Okay weird ass connection issue that's frustrating me. I did a Factory Reset on my router because I could not for the life of me remember the password I used. Updated the firmware while I was at it since everything reset anyways. So, go through the setup process, change to Google DNS because for some reason Roadrunner internet refuses to load webpages when I use their DNS.

Kinda wonky, but I'm finally back to normal. Or so I think. Google Chrome won't load any google websites, google.com won't work on Chrome, but it loads just fine on FF and IE. If I use the IP address thing though, it loads it fine on Chrome... What gives? o_O


EDIT:

And of course just as I finish typing this, it suddenly starts working again... o_O


EDIT2:

For fucks sake. Other websites not working. :/ Again this seems to be only happening in Chrome, because Firefox and IE are loading them fine...

Changed from Google DNS to Open DNS through my Router. Same shit but different websites broke. Now Gametrailers won't load but the one I couldn't load earlier does. Why is this so damn complicated. :(

EDIT3:

I guess I fixed it. I changed the DNS settings through my Windows 8 settings. Hopefully this won't be a problem through WiFi on my phone or laptops.

So what's the difference between changing my DNS on my router and changing my DNS on my desktop?
 

Maddocks

Member
What happens when you browse directly to an IP instead of using a domain name of a site that isn't working? For example, 74.125.239.103 is a google IP.

Also try running a traceroute in cmd to a blocked address and see what it shows

It may be a DNS issue, which your computer and ISP don't necessarily control. If that's the case you can manually set a DNS.

It works when I go via IP. I called my ISP again and they said they are having issues with DNS and are working on it. I want to believe them, but also feel like they would tell me whatever I wanted to hear to get me off the phone with them.

When I set the DNS to googles, it doesnt help at all.
 

MrBig

Member
It works when I go via IP. I called my ISP again and they said they are having issues with DNS and are working on it. I want to believe them, but also feel like they would tell me whatever I wanted to hear to get me off the phone with them.

When I set the DNS to googles, it doesnt help at all.

Did you change the DNS on your computer or on your router? Since the issue survived a format that would mean it really is likely an issue with the ISP's default DNS, which your router would be configured to use.

EDIT3:

I guess I fixed it. I changed the DNS settings through my Windows 8 settings. Hopefully this won't be a problem through WiFi on my phone or laptops.

So what's the difference between changing my DNS on my router and changing my DNS on my desktop?

You and Maddocks seem to be going through a similar issue. Changing it at the router level should insure that all traffic is using the specified DNS (if windows is set to automatically choose the DNS server) instead of the router sending it to its own default, but having windows and router settings different could cause conflicts
 

AlteredBeast

Fork 'em, Sparky!
Two problems:

1) I close the lid on my laptop to put it to sleep. If it is not plugged in, it generally stays asleep until I open the lid and press the power button. If it is plugged in, however, it turns itself back on after about 10 minutes of being asleep. It stays awake in its closed-lid state until I open the lid, which immediately turns the screen back on. How do I fix this so it stays asleep?

2) I bought a brand new Panasonic 58" LED LCD and it has built-in apps like Netflix and the like. The TV has HDMI ARC, as does my receiver, a Yamaha RX-V371. I want the TV sound to go through the receiver without using an additional cable, as ARC is supposed to work. I set it all up enabled it in both menus. The receiver recognizes that the TV is sending out an audio signal, changes to the correct audio channel and allows me to use my regular universal remote which controls my receiver, cable box, etc. The volume goes up and down normally, but NO sound comes out. I cannot figure this out and it is ridiculously aggravating. No amount of troubleshooting I have done has led me to any concrete answers!


Anybody have an idea about these? :(
 

Ronabo

Member
AlteredBeast, try looking in the power options and see what it's set to do when the lid is closed. There should be options for plugged in and on battery.
 

Symphonia

Banned
My sound on my laptop isn't working. Or it does for a second or two, albeit extremely tinny and distorted, then cuts out. I've uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers, updated the drivers on all hardware and still nothing. I've tried plugging in headphones, too, and that doesn't work. What could the issue be? I'm on a HP Pavilion G6, with Windows 8.1, if that helps.
Anyone?
 

Maddocks

Member
ISP finally fixed the issue. Now I have a bigger one. windows (vista) decided it would error. The problem is it wants me to place the disc in and select repair, but my keyboard is usb, so the keyboard won't function.

do I need to buy a cheap keyboard just to press one button?
 

Derrick01

Banned
This happens when I log into our website management interface at work. It's probably just because the site tries to redirect in a way that can be dangerous, but I doubt that it's actually a security problem. Did you try to log in from another browser?

No, but my friend who doesn't use Chrome also got that warning on their login site. I haven't tried again.
 
Tech-GAF, I need your help! What is the best program/solution for trying to salvage data from a failing hard drive? I've neglected doing regular backups and now I'm about to pay the price but I wanna try and save what I can. I'm on Windows 7 pro but bootable Linux-based USBs are welcome too.
 

Dai101

Banned
ISP finally fixed the issue. Now I have a bigger one. windows (vista) decided it would error. The problem is it wants me to place the disc in and select repair, but my keyboard is usb, so the keyboard won't function.

do I need to buy a cheap keyboard just to press one button?

Buy or even better borrow one. Afterwards activate the USB function on DOS or whatever it's called in your bios.
 

CyReN

Member
I recently switched from my Xbox 360 using VGA (PC input on my Samsung) to HDMI with the Xbox One. When I go through my source list (tv, hdmi, pc, av, etc) it should only be TV and HDMI. For whatever reason PC still shows up with nothing plugged in, is that normal? I've done a lot of googling and can't seem to find an answer. I know it's a small annoyance I'm just very curious if I can remove it sine I switch between TV and HDMi quite a bit and get kinda annoying.

(I've tried refreshing, unplugging, putting in a VGA and removing)

Model: SAMSUNG P2370HD

CHFoOD7.jpg
 

Chris R

Member
How do I fix overscan when going from a PC to a TV over HDMI? I've almost lost the entire windows bar.

TV is set to display FULL resolution, and is a 1080p tv... For now I just tweak it with the nVidia display panel but it would be nice if I didn't need to do anything.
 

Dawg

Member
I've tried both a Corsair M65 and Steelseries Xai (without drivers or anything I think, does it need drivers from the site?) on my computer and they both have some kind of resistance when I move around.

It's kinda hard to explain, like when I'm playing WoW and I move my mouse around the action bar to quickly press spells in succession... it sometimes skips some movement or like it goes slower because there's some kind of resistance. Like it doesn't track my movement correctly. I've already cleaned my Steelseries QcK (the WoW panda one) and didn't see any dust or anything left.

Weird thing is, on the laptop downstairs we have like a 5$ mouse and it doesn't have this problem. Maybe it's because those expensive mouse are a lot more sensitive and more precise?
 

Chris R

Member
I've tried both a Corsair M65 and Steelseries Xai (without drivers or anything I think, does it need drivers from the site?) on my computer and they both have some kind of resistance when I move around.

It's kinda hard to explain, like when I'm playing WoW and I move my mouse around the action bar to quickly press spells in succession... it sometimes skips some movement or like it goes slower because there's some kind of resistance. Like it doesn't track my movement correctly. I've already cleaned my Steelseries QcK (the WoW panda one) and didn't see any dust or anything left.

Weird thing is, on the laptop downstairs we have like a 5$ mouse and it doesn't have this problem. Maybe it's because those expensive mouse are a lot more sensitive and more precise?

Try a different USB port if possible. There is some issue with my mouse (like scrolling in Chrome taking FOREVER) if I plug into a specific USB port out of the 14 or whatever on the back of my motherboard.
 

Ecto311

Member
Really racking my brain here so any help is appreciated.

I have a samsung lnt4071f tv. It keeps jumping back to shop mode after doing all the stuff the manual says. I did the plug and play menu stuff and tried the hold menu options. That gets it out of shop mode but 30 min after and it comes back to the over saturated bright ugly shop mode. Anyone out there know of a fix? It's like the system doesn't save anything I do. Firmware? Internal battery? Toss this bastard out the window and piss on it?

Thanks for any help it's been a pain in my ass for over 2 years and there is no warranty plus it would cost more to fix than get a newer 40in set.
 
I've started having this issue appearing recently with rendered text across my whole system. I recently changed my graphics card because that was causing other issues as well as this one. Any idea what is going on?

[
wMPO0xn.jpg
 
I posted this in the stupid questions thread, mostly because it's a question that is making me feel stupid, but figured I'd try here as well:

Feeling pretty sheepish about posting here as this is something I've done tons of times before, but I can't get a wireless bridge working on my network no matter what I do. I'm using a WRT54G v3 running DD-WRT Standard (bridge) and an Airport Extreme Pre-N (primary). I've followed every tutorial, chief among them this: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Client_Bridged with no luck. I've tried for hours and just can't get the bridge to see my connection no matter what. Any thoughts? I can get more technical if needed, but figured I'd start simple.
 

tehrafe

Member
Really racking my brain here so any help is appreciated.

I have a samsung lnt4071f tv. It keeps jumping back to shop mode after doing all the stuff the manual says. I did the plug and play menu stuff and tried the hold menu options. That gets it out of shop mode but 30 min after and it comes back to the over saturated bright ugly shop mode. Anyone out there know of a fix? It's like the system doesn't save anything I do. Firmware? Internal battery? Toss this bastard out the window and piss on it?

Thanks for any help it's been a pain in my ass for over 2 years and there is no warranty plus it would cost more to fix than get a newer 40in set.

What you are doing is correct but you have to make sure to switch your input mode to "TV" instead of "HDMI/RGB/..." when you make the switch to "home mode".

Are you holding the volume button on your tv while you do the hold menu button thing? (+ pressing info after it switches to dynamic)
 

Alpende

Member
Might as well post my question in here.


I have a Turtle Beach X41 headset that was designed for the Xbox 360. It has a 2.5mm jack with 2 of those small black things around the jack. I want it to work with my PS4 and DS4.

If I buy the adapter below will it work with the headset and will I be able to chat with it? I thought the adapter below could work because it also has 2 small black things around the jack.


EDIT: Nevermind, found out you need 4 poles and got that one instead
 

h_a_t

Member
Tech-GAF, I need your help! What is the best program/solution for trying to salvage data from a failing hard drive? I've neglected doing regular backups and now I'm about to pay the price but I wanna try and save what I can. I'm on Windows 7 pro but bootable Linux-based USBs are welcome too.


Not the most intuitive but has helped me WAY more times than not.
Sorry, the copy/paste function is deciding not to work on my phone.....do a Google search for TestDisk.
 

Blowdrum

Neo Member
TechSupportGaf, I need some help.

My PC is unable to connect to the world wide web. I have an internet connection, and I can use programs that require an internet connection (Steam, for example), however, when I try to access a webpage I can't connect. It's not isolated to my browser or anything like that either, because I can't access webpages from anything. Google Chrome, Firefox, IE, and even the store and community pages in the Steam Client are all unable to connect to the web.

It sounds like something to do with my Firewall setting, but I'm not sure. Any possible fixes you guys can think of?

EDIT: Issue Resolved.
 
Hi,

I recently bought a tablet. And have been enjoying gaming on it. Particularly as, due to recent circumstances, I often can't be at the desktop computer at home, but I can be at a tablet. Or, sometimes, a laptop.

It has given me a lot of time gaming that I wouldn't have normally had. I put in the largest capacity microSD card I could find, and loaded it up with games. I bought dozens from Google Play, and the rest I used for roms and emulators. But, thanks to PlayStation isos, I quickly went through all of my internal and SD storage.

I also felt the desire to play newer games, or more obscure emulated systems like the PC-98. That simply are either too powerful for my Android device, or don't yet have an Android emulator app. So I decided to finally give Splashtop a try.

I was very surprised and impressed by how fun and capable playing games with Splashtop was. I immediately made a on-screen setup for the entire PlayStation 2 controller, with very large buttons for the most commonly used buttons, and smaller ones for less commonly used buttons like L3 and R3. And the buttons were surprisingly non-intrusive and playable in game. I immediately tried playing Tales of the Abyss on PCSX2 with Splashtop and my newly formed button layout. And had much joy that I was simply able to play Tales of the Abyss on my tablet anywhere in my house. The was no lag or framerate issues, and the buttons were very playable. It was a complete joy and surprise to be able to do this and do it so well.

This made me want to play and beat Tales of the Abyss again right away. And play all my games via streaming, and to more strongly consider "home cloud storage" or NAS storage for all my games. I wouldn't need large capacity MicroSD storage devices to hold all of my games if I could simply store them on a NAS device and access them via wi-fi. And I could have all of my games on one wi-fi storage drive, and access them on all of my devices.

With all of my roms, isos, Steam library, games, music, and pictures, on one, hopefully backed up RAID device. I could have a centralized and well organized place for all of my most important information. I would never have to install a Steam game more than once, because I would immediately and always install and access all of my Steam games via a NAS device. I would never end up with duplicates of roms or isos on my various computers, because they would all be backed up on the "home cloud" storage device and broadcasted via wifi, allowing me better organization of all of my games.

There are many cases where my roms and isos have been left on an obscure hard drive somewhere, so instead I searched out the cartridges or discs in order to extract the roms or isos again. With one centralized solution, I wouldn't need ever do that again or wonder where my games are. I could have a perfectly organized library, for instance, of all of the PlayStation 2 games I have extracted the .Isos from, and never worry about them again. They would be backed up on a RAID NAS device. It seems like the perfect way to organize and access all of my data.

Even better, it would allow me to focus on SSDs for my desktop. And less on buying more internal hard drives for my desktop computers. Which means less capable management and less SATA plugs being taken. Hard drives and managing SATA plugs can be one of the most difficult piece of cable management for working with desktop computers. With sufficient wi-fi speeds, I won't need internal hard drives for any of my computers any more. And I can just focus on having one good internal SDD drive and maybe a single extra HDD or SSD. Instead of the five or six internal HDDs I have per desktop right now.

Better yet, ever time I build a new computer, installing all of my essentially drivers and software will be much easier because I can store them all on the "home cloud" without searching out various websites, or using a flash drive. I can simply keep up to date versions of all my most important programs I install every time I build a new computer in a folder called "Essential Software" or so forth.


Furthermore, I wouldn't even need to play most of my games via the internal software of my Android devices, because I would be able to play all of them via streaming. I don't have to be as patient for mobile Android CPUs to be powerful enough to play Gamecube games via Dolphin, when I can simply stream my desktop. That's not to say I'll stop playing games via Android emulators, but having stream as an option is great for home use. And definitely allows me to play a lot more games and have more options.

Meaning, I can basically do everything via the "cloud". Or, the home cloud, at least. With little latency or problems. I can access all of my devices remotely. And my main storage drive for the entire house can be a NAS. For all of my devices, whether they be a handheld video game system, a video game console like the PlayStation 3 or 4, my various desktop and laptop PCs, or my "mobile" devices like my tablets or possibly devices like the Nvidia Shield in the future.

I've been very pleased by Splashtop. And I'm sure other programs exist and will surface that will be even better. I have heard that Splashtop was CPU intensive, so I was worried about emulating games with it, as emulators tend to be CPU intensive as well. But I found no lag, no framerate issues, and no problems with my Intel 2500K. Gameplay was very smooth and enjoyable.

The joy of simply being able to play Tales of the Abyss via a tablet, however, was halted by the fact that one day, when my router was under heavy load from several devices, started lagging heavily and disconnecting frequently. It was completely random and unpredictable. And would not lag or disconnect in the same places twice. This leads me to believing that it is not my Intel 2500K CPU not being able to handle PlayStation 2 emulation and video compression for Splashtop at the same time. And that the problem is that my router is weak.

My router was inexpensive and probably less than 300Mbps. I bought it for simple internet usage rather than home networking. I had been interested in home networking for a while, but had never fully committed to the idea, and thus never bought a proper RAID card or a home network server, or expensive and powerful router. I very much wanted one, but ended up spending the money on other things.


I'm looking to surmount this problem. I want to finish playing Tales of the Abyss on my tablet without problem. And I'm looking to continue doing this. I want to play more games and continue playing games this way. And look into both more remote desktop or desktop streaming or remote gaming usage, and more home networking. I'm longer overdue for home networking, buying NAS devices and setting up home servers and the like.

This means I need to look into investing into NAS devices, and possibly eventually making a home server computer. But more importantly, a better router. A router capable of PC gaming streaming, something I would want to play an MMORPG over. With no lag, disconnections, and as little latency as possible. And, hopefully, as well, have a high enough data rate to also have high rates for a NAS device also holding games themselves. Both broadcasting the desktop and gameplay of the games, as well as the data files of the video games themselves.

That sounds like a very demanding task. And I've been trying to look into the most powerful consumer routers possible to accomplish this.

What I've come upon, and have been strongly looking at and considering is the ASUS RT-AC68U. It seems to be one of the most powerful consumer-level routers on the market. With data rates up to around 2Gbps. Or 1900Mbps. With a long distance and strong connection, also capable of increasing strength by connecting to other routers.

It seems like it would be worth the investment since I am planning on doing a lot of streaming and NAS usage. I would want to eliminate latency for streaming as much as possible, and I would like to have as good of read/write speeds as possible for my NAS device.

It seems like it wouldn't be overly powerful. And that making the investment of $220 for a router would be worth it. But I'm not sure whether it is an over-investment, and would be far too powerful and far more money than I need to spend. Or far too weak to handle both heavy streaming and NAS usage. And I would need to look into something even more expensive as a solution, where a single more powerful router, or several routers working together.

I'm not averse to spending a little more than I need to. I've done that often with building PCs against the advice of others. And have often bought GPUs and motherboards more powerful than what I need. And I'm not against doing that again with a wireless router. Particularly since I want very good data speeds.


Is the ASUS RT-AC68U good for my needs in the area of wireless routing? It is too much money and too powerful for my needs? Or, is it too weak and too cheap for my needs? I assume that it should be plenty good for my needs as a desktop streaming device. But desktop streaming and NAS I am less sure about.


Also, what NAS devices should I be looking into? I want something that will be reliable and won't be a bottleneck for my games. I am, for instance, planning to run games like Tera, Final Fantasy XIV, Final Fantasy XI, Blade & Soul, Phantasy Star Online 2, Minecraft, Ikaruga, and my various PlayStation 2, Nintendo Gamecube, and Nintendo Wii isos off of it. I don't want any bottlenecks in terms of my wifi or my storage speed. I also want something reliable, and something hopefully affordable.

The Western Digital "My Cloud" 3TB seems reasonably priced. And would have enough storage to hold at least my most important and valuable games and anime. I could put my entire Steam library, GoG, and Desura on it, as well as my doujin imports and other non-digital distribution available PC games. As well I could put all of my PlayStation 2, Gamecube, and Wii library. Together with most of my favourite anime would be pushing it on just a mere 3TB. But I might be able to manage all of my PC games, and of my roms and isos, and all of at least my most important anime. I definitely couldn't hold all my music, though, or my pictures. Especially as I have at least 3TB of Touhou music alone.

3TB is pretty good, though. Especially for the most important data you want access to.
Unfortunately though, I've heard people having bad experiences with Western Digital. All of my friends have had bad things to say about Western digital. And I wouldn't want the hard drive to fail on me.

There's also the SAMSUNG GT-B9150ZKYXAR. With significantly less storage, but possibly more reliability. I'm also a fan of Samsung products. But the device seems to be getting poor reviews.

There's also this drobo device. Drobo device is one of the pioneers of home NAS and are a very well known name. Kind of a silly sounding name, but I've heard good things about their products and reliability. I also like the aesthetics of that device. It's very clean and curvy. Having an almost bubble look to it, and I like bubble shaped devices. It would be a significant investment, at $550, also not including hard drives. But with 5 bays, RAID support, and 4TB HDDs becoming as cheap as $100 occasionally(for this Black Friday, and I assume will soon be standard in the future), for $500 more dollars, I could have as much as 20 TB of NAS storage. Lower, if using RAID, but preferable as the data would be securely backed up and I could safely trust the device with all of my most precious data. Assuming that the device supports 4TB drives.

A device like that would be quite an investment, but perhaps, it would be worth it. Particularly if I could hold all of my most important video games, anime, music, and pictures on it. In a well organized securely backed up fashion.

And this is what I mean by affordable 4TB drives. I anticipate them costing around $100 regularly soon.

Seagate also has a 2TB NAS solution, for around $100. That can be found here. I definitely like the look of the Western Digital and others, better. Also, I worry about either of these being reliable. But these might be a good temporary solution, at the very least, before spending a thousand dollars on a 5 HDD drobo solution.

Drobo also has the very elegant and portable Transporter system. Drobo products have a good reputation for function and reliability. I think they have a very attractive design. And they're small and lend themselves well to portability. The only downside I see is if the encryption slows the data transfer, or that the software is unwieldy. Also, the device, being small and portable, only uses 2.5" hard drives, rather than 3.5" hard drives. These are smaller capacity and more expensive hard drives. And I would want to want to own several for my storage needs.

However, it might be a good start. And I could have one transporter for my Steam library, one for my PlayStation 2 games, one for my Gamecube games, one for my Wii games, one for all of my classic roms and isos like my PlayStation and SEGA Saturn games, and some for various anime, music, and pictures. And access them all via the wireless router.

I must admit, I have no idea how most NAS devices work together. And whether it's okay to invest in multiple devices. I assume it shouldn't be a problem. But I don't have any experience with NAS.

Here's the short version for those not wanting to read all my text. I am looking to play video games over streaming. Right now, via Splashtop, though in the future, possibly also devices similar to the Nvidia Shield or Razer Edge. I'm also wanting to centralize my information with a "home cloud' or NAS device. Is the ASUS RT-AC68U appropriate for my needs? What should I look into buying? Can I affordable do both high definition PC gaming streaming with low latency and fast NAS access? Also, what kinds of NAS devices should I be looking into?

Thanks a lot for your time.
 
My sister's laptop (Acer Aspire S3-391) has a built-in webcam. It was functioning properly, but she upgraded from Windows 8 to Windows 8.1. This is the 64-bit version of Windows 8/8.1. Upon upgrading, the webcam is no longer recognized. Acer's website does not offer any webcam drivers, nor does their built-in recovery utility work because it also lacks the drivers. We can roll back to 8.0 using Acer's built-in recovery tool, but since there are no drivers anyway, we're somewhat hesitant to go through the process of rolling back just to find no improvement to our problem... additionally, she'd like to be able to actually use 8.1, so this is a non-ideal solution even if the webcam is fixed.

Any advice?

Chatting with Acer live tech support now. I have no faith in this process though. We'll see.

EDIT: Acer does not offer webcam drivers for this laptop (with any operating system). Not available on their website, or through their built-in application, or through their tech support. Their only solution is to roll back to Windows 8, but that means I'll lose all my updates/apps/applications, not to mention a one-time use Microsoft Office that my sister got for free from her university, which means she'd have to instead buy Office. She's opting to use an external webcam she has, and I gave Acer an earful about the complete and utter shit that they simply do not have drivers for their laptops.

Moral: Never, ever buy an Acer product. They simply fail to support their products with the most basic of drivers.
 

Herne

Member
I've been having a serious problem with my Asus N56-VJ since installing Windows 8 this afternoon. Originally, it came with Windows 8 but I formatted it, installed Windows 7 and was happy. But I was having an issue with some task inside one of the service hosts that kept locking up the computer whenever I disabled the wifi, bringing the cpu up to 100% and rendering it unusable for about twenty minutes. This was far too long for me and I ended up just powering it off and back on again to resolve it.

I have an ssd installed so I figured that I'd jump to Windows 8 to fix the problem and gain all the performance improvements that came with the os. The install went fine, the service pack install was fine, everything was fine.... but the screen looked oddly "small" and text looked blurred on things such as Rainmeter and on Cyberfox. I kept fiddling with it in the latter until I have the text the exact size I want it, but the icons are slightly too big and the text in Rainmeter is still too blurry, more than normal. I reinstalled the Intel HD 4000 driver - the one that came with the laptop, because Intel's own site had me search for drivers by way of choosing which cpu it came with (i7 3630QM), and despite choosing the correct one (third generation) it came up with no drivers for me to download.

Still the problem remained. I uninstalled the pre-packaged drivers for the GeForce 635M, and inadvertently let GeForce Experience install along with the newly-acquired ones from nVidia's own site. And it is thanks to that program, a program I have no use for, that I found the problem - the resolution is, apparently, a mind-boggling 1536x864. I tried resetting the resolution through Windows and through the Intel control panel - after switching down to 1024x768 and back up to 1920x1080, the native resolution no change. Windows and Intel's control panel report 1080p, GeForce Experience report 1536x864.

Any tips, guys? Completely flummoxed on this one. Image of the desktop and GeForce Experience -

resolution.png


Edit - Just checked my desktop, which has the same resolution and two Rainmeters as on the right of the image, and on that both of them are much smaller on that, so despite the image being 1080, there is something to that weird 1536x864.

EditEdit - Damn it! Apparently Windows 8 was betraying it's touch screen origins by magnifying objects on the desktop. All sorted, now.
 
Hey, I got a Windows Surface 8 Pro (1), and can't figure out a way to change the settings on the Windows 8 Skype app.
Is there an alternative camera app I can install that would enable me to change camera settings (brightness, colour, etc) on the fly?
 

tehrafe

Member
I've started having this issue appearing recently with rendered text across my whole system. I recently changed my graphics card because that was causing other issues as well as this one. Any idea what is going on?

[
wMPO0xn.jpg

Have you tried changing any of the ClearType Text tuner settings?

(Control Panel -> Display -> Adjust ClearType Text)
 

OmegaSkittle

Neo Member
Gonna see what others think is the problem here:

A few months back I was drinking some beer and accidentally knocked it off my desk on onto the top of my computer case. The inside of the computer got splashed with a bit of beer (from what I could tell just a little bit on the motherboard) since I have a cooling exhaust fan on the top. The computer then proceeds to shut down. After letting the computer dry and wiping it down, I try and boot it back up. The hardware inside seems to all start up fine but anything plugged into the USB ports doesn't work and I am not getting any output from my graphics card (HDMI(tried DisplayPort and DVI)).

After this I figure some of the motherboard got fried.

Fast forward to last night. I put my computer back together to try and see if it will work, hoping I don't have to spend money I don't have. I try and do this every few weeks... just because. For whatever reason the computer boots up and runs like normal?

Being that the computer was not on for a few months, it needed some firmware and software updated so I let it update overnight. When I woke up this morning, the USB ports and any of the display output ports decided not to work again, even after soft and hard resets.

Any thoughts?
 

Ourobolus

Banned
I have a Home Theater question:

I purchased a Samsung HT-E5500W BluRay/Receiver/5.1 Surround Sound system last year, and suddenly it keeps alternating the source constantly whenever I use it. I called their support line, and after exhausting our options, I would have to send it in to get serviced.

Now, is there any chance that I could simply replace the receiver part and still use the wireless 5.1 system? I can't tell if the speaker connections are proprietary, or if the wireless system would even work with anything else.

Here's what the back looks like. The four ports on the left are the speaker inputs, and there's a slot for a wireless card next to the ethernet port.

x305HTE5500-B.jpeg
 

Sarcasm

Member
Living in some one else home and they pre-wired all the rooms with Ethernet ports int he wall (like plugs/telephone) and oddly its not in a very accessible location. Hence why two coords...
 

McSmiggins

Neo Member
You just want a standard network switch, everything going in one port gets sent out of the port the other end is connected to (they learn what's on each end of each cable and send it along to the right place, there's a whole variety of them out there from 5-96 ports on them, do you want one picked for you? Typically you can pick up a cheap Netgear gigabit one fairly cheaply
 

Toppot

Member
I have exhausted my own knowledge and I am forced to ask for help xD

Today my laptop has decided to randomly freeze after 20 minutes-1 hours use. By freeze I mean complete freeze, no movement not even the mouse, no buttons do anything or make any noise, not even lock or wifi buttton. I have to hold down the power button and turn it back on.

I've eliminated Firefox, Metrotweet or Steam as the issue. My laptop battery is old and gives a warning it needs replaced for optimal performance, but the issue happens whether or not the battery is in.

I have run Malwarebytes and cleaned up anything it found. The laptop runs fine in Safe Mode, so its something non-hardware I assume.

Can anyone help? What steps I need to do to further diagnose the problem, any solutions. and any information you need I am happy to provide. OS is Windows 7.

EDIT: I've turned off a lot of non-essential startup services, seems ok so far, hasn't crashed in 30 minutes *fingers crossed*

EDIT2: Nope, 10 seconds after my edit it crashed -_-
 
I have run Malwarebytes and cleaned up anything it found. The laptop runs fine in Safe Mode, so its something non-hardware I assume.

Can anyone help? What steps I need to do to further diagnose the problem, any solutions. and any information you need I am happy to provide. OS is Windows 7.

Shot in the dark here, but have you also tried Safe Mode with Networking to see whether the problem still occurs?

Also, does the problem still occur if your laptop is just left to idle for the aforementioned period of time as opposed to being actively used?

Prior to the complete freeze, have you tried monitoring your CPU/GPU temps for overheating? (I know you've mentioned it's most likely a software issue, but it helps to have a complete picture of your laptop's health)
 

params7

Banned
I have exhausted my own knowledge and I am forced to ask for help xD

Today my laptop has decided to randomly freeze after 20 minutes-1 hours use. By freeze I mean complete freeze, no movement not even the mouse, no buttons do anything or make any noise, not even lock or wifi buttton. I have to hold down the power button and turn it back on.

I've eliminated Firefox, Metrotweet or Steam as the issue. My laptop battery is old and gives a warning it needs replaced for optimal performance, but the issue happens whether or not the battery is in.

I have run Malwarebytes and cleaned up anything it found. The laptop runs fine in Safe Mode, so its something non-hardware I assume.

Can anyone help? What steps I need to do to further diagnose the problem, any solutions. and any information you need I am happy to provide. OS is Windows 7.

EDIT: I've turned off a lot of non-essential startup services, seems ok so far, hasn't crashed in 30 minutes *fingers crossed*

EDIT2: Nope, 10 seconds after my edit it crashed -_-


Record the time of crashes, then go to Event Viewer and look up any application or windows error logs that show up around that time. If a software or driver is causing the freezing it should be listed there.
 

DTKT

Member
Like this:



This will keep the signal boosted? Trying to see if this is an issue cause I am getting uber than horrible uber than horrible internet connectivity.

Keep in mind that you want a switch and not a Hub.

Also, with Ethernet cable rated at roughly 100 meters, make sure distance is actually an issue before buying equipment. As far as I know, there could be other issues beyond distance. I'd look into damaged cabling, interference and damaged Ethernet cards.
 

Toppot

Member
Shot in the dark here, but have you also tried Safe Mode with Networking to see whether the problem still occurs?

Also, does the problem still occur if your laptop is just left to idle for the aforementioned period of time as opposed to being actively used?

Prior to the complete freeze, have you tried monitoring your CPU/GPU temps for overheating? (I know you've mentioned it's most likely a software issue, but it helps to have a complete picture of your laptop's health)

Record the time of crashes, then go to Event Viewer and look up any application or windows error logs that show up around that time. If a software or driver is causing the freezing it should be listed there.

Thanks for the replies. I shall run through them tomorrow after work and make a new post with any findings/results. Much appreciated =]
 

Herne

Member
Would anyone have any clue why Windows 8 on my laptop is randomly playing a three-tone sound every now and then? Not beeps, more a low-key sound. Can't find anything that may be causing it, I haven't connected anything or updated anything. Been happening randomly all day today and yesterday.
 
Hey y'all, I posted a while back about my laptop dying on me, well it's back in the game, but now it's having a not very serious issue but one that's pretty annoying.

It seems like the wifi signal on my laptop cuts out from anywhere to every 10 minutes to every other hour. Actually right now it's in the middle of a fit and keeps dropping me every 7 minutes or so. The problem is fixed if I shut off the wifi receiver on my laptop then manually reconnect to my home network but so it's not like it's big hassle when I'm surfing or whatever but it get's old when I'm trying to do school work, downloading anything substantial, doing something that requires precise timing. The wifi doesn't completely drop me, it just fails to load whatever I was doing like I'm disconnected, although once in a while it does give me the little yellow exclamation point over my wifi signal.

The other devices in my house have no issue connecting to our network and resetting the router doesn't seem to do anything to help my laptop. Honestly I'm so used to automatically turning off the wifi and reconnecting that I wouldn't be surprised if I blocked it out of my memory so I can't be sure, but the few times I've used my laptop on my gf's network or my university's it seemed to have no problem staying connected. I'm pretty much at a loss as to what keeps causing it to disconnect.
 
Hdmi out on my laptop is bust. So upset and heartbroken at this, I love my laptop. It's an old HP TN touch , tablet PC model that is very rare to find nowadays. I always use the HDMI to plug it into TV to watch movies. Play games. Or plug it to monitors to do my work as if i was on a desktops.

Is there a way to fix this? I hear it's difficult. But there must be a way.
 
ok, so I bought an Intel SSD X25M 80GB on ebay and as soon as I get it it an hour later after installing the OS the drive stops working, I cant get the thing to show up in the bios at all.





I have tried the toolkit and hooking it up to an external sata to USB


anything I can do?
 

Toppot

Member
Time for my update TL:DR It's still not working =/

Shot in the dark here, but have you also tried Safe Mode with Networking to see whether the problem still occurs?

Also, does the problem still occur if your laptop is just left to idle for the aforementioned period of time as opposed to being actively used?

Prior to the complete freeze, have you tried monitoring your CPU/GPU temps for overheating? (I know you've mentioned it's most likely a software issue, but it helps to have a complete picture of your laptop's health)
Safe mode with networking is fine. Ran it for 3 hours, will be running it for longer today to double check.

Yes if I turn it on and load desktop it crashes, I can try leaving it on login screen, that may have been what you meant in the first place xD

Temperatures are fine when it crashes, 56-64 degrees.

Record the time of crashes, then go to Event Viewer and look up any application or windows error logs that show up around that time. If a software or driver is causing the freezing it should be listed there.

I see the odd error here and there but nothing within a minute of it crashing. Checked 3 different crash times.

------

Any other idea or further steps from you 2 or anyone would be greatly appreciated. ATM seems like it is service or program that loads on startup, and I've already turned off loads.

EDIT: Checked login screen, laptop crashes on a normal boot login screen after some time, runs fine on a safe mode networking login screen.

EDIT 2: Well fuck, it managed to crash in Safe Mode with Networking. The whole crashing only happened a few days after getting an internal battery warning, so it might be related. I'd better buy a spare battery and try, can always return the battery I guess.
 

Hung Wei Lo

Member
Hello Tech/networkGAF - Need your help dealing with an annoyance.

My wireless connection from my laptop would periodically die (especially annoying when downloading/streaming
porn
) Most of the time, it's easily solved by opening up the Network and Sharing thingy and clicking on the red x to troubleshoot the problem (like my techno-lingo?)

Usually when done, it looks like the wireless adapter is just being reset. I've tried disabling the wifi miniport(?) adapter and changing the power savings settings, but that doesn't seem to be doing the trick. Resetting the router doesn't seem to do much either. When running a wifi test, there seems to be an issue with the DNS server (or is it gateway? it tries to ping something and essentially fails)

Anyhow, any advice/tips would be greatly appreciated
 

Megasoum

Banned
God dammit... Since my reboot yesterday (first time I rebooted in weeks) now my youtube videos in Chrome don't stay full screen if the window loose focus (ie if I do something on the other screen)....

I hate that shit... I tried switching Youtube to HTML5 but it seems like it still using Flash (I still see the flash options when I right click the video)....
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
I updated to Win 8.1 the other day. Since that update, every once in a while, the icons in my taskbar will flicker. It's more like a stutrer where they appear to flash to the generic paper with folded corner icon and then back to the correct icon (be in Chrome, Steam, Firefox, whatever).

Any idea what would cause this?
 
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