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[ambientmystic]

OK, I am having some serious issues with my Windows 8 Samsung Series 7 Chronos Laptop.
I have 8GB of ram, but for some reason it is appearing as nearly all being used even when hardly anything is using it, is there a fix for this? I have to keep closing applications, and it really is extremely irritating.
Thanks.
Edit: and my actual programs showing in Task manager are using 500MB tops (in fact, that's a conservative estimate) yet my laptop is using over 7GB of ram altogether.
Help me GAF!

I'm on Windows 7 atm, but by used RAM, are you referring to the "Free" measurement or the "Available" measurement?

It's quite normal for the "Free" numbers to be close to zero after awhile, thats the Superfetch doing its thing to load all your most frequently used programs into RAM for quick access. This number has no bearing on the actual amount of RAM available to your other programs, and RAM will be freed up accordingly when required.

Now if it's the "Available" numbers that are close to zero, you've got yourself a real problem with Memory management. Make sure you've ticked the "Show processes from all users" checkbox and have a look at the processes gobbling up RAM.

Alternatively, head to the "Resource Monitor" (Metro menu etc ---> Type in Resouce Monitor in the the search box --> enter) and have a look at the "Memory" Tab.

 

[ChoklitReign]

I'm afraid my computer mouse is dying. It's no longer making one-on-one movement. It renders gaming impossible. The best way to explain it is that, for a brief moment, moving to the right is extremely sluggish, with very low sensitity, then it reverts back to normal and generally stays that way until I make fast movements from the left of the screen. The mouse is a Gigabyte GM-M6800 - it's extremely underrated and it's served me well. I've gone through an obscene number of mice in the years (basic mice -> M518 -> Deathadder -> 2nd Deathadder -> M400 -> M6800) and I don't want to waste money on another one. I've tried different USB ports, and I've tried smooth and bumpy mousepads and the same thing eventually happens. It doesn't need any installed drivers. I'm wiggling it as I type this last sentence and it seems normal but I know it will return and quit my gaming session. Is my mouse on life support? What mouse would you recommend for extreme longevity?

 

[br0ken_shad0w]

Windows open cmd and type "ipconfig" it should show your Default Gateway which is your routers IP address.

Mac open terminal and type "arp -a" to show all devices on the network.

Tried this, but I have a Comcast modem set to bridge mode and the Default Gateway is the Comcast modem IP address. Previously, I had the router set to 10.0.0.1, but I can't get to it anymore.

 

[iosefe]

Graphics card guy again. just checking to see if THIS is the correct cable. i realised i forgot to add it before check out, so it gave me a moment to double check.

*edit* i get the feeling it's wrong. ignore this post for now while i look for the correct 6 pin

** http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200106 seems about right.

 

[scogoth]

Tried this, but I have a Comcast modem set to bridge mode and the Default Gateway is the Comcast modem IP address. Previously, I had the router set to 10.0.0.1, but I can't get to it anymore.

Last resort is factory reset router and set it up again.

 

[br0ken_shad0w]

So I'm a fucking idiot and found out that my computer was never connected to the router in the first place. Instead it was connected straight to the modem itself. No wonder it never showed up. Oh well, got that sorted out.

 

[HolyBaikal]

I've been trying to play a PC game on Android over Splashtop recently. Using a Bluetooth keyboard from Samsung.

The problem is that I can't seem to hold down keys. If I hold down 'e' for instance, it tries to modify the letter for those not typically used in the English language. As I'm trying to play video games, not type something in a foreign language, this isn't useful to me. And it's stopping me from playing video games.

My tablet is a Samsung Galaxy Tab 2. And my operating system is Windows 8.

 

[The Abominable Snowman]

What are you guys using to clone your HDDs? CloneZilla is being stupid.

I'm trying to write a partition from my HDD to my newly installed SSD (Both formatted to NTFS). CloneZilla is doing some operation but isn't writing anything when I do a Partition-to-Partition clone. And it tries (and fails) to clone the hard disk when I do disk-to-disk cloning. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.

 

[Alpende]

So I just got a Nexus 5 and I'm trying to put some music on it.

I'm running stock android, rooted. My laptop runs Ubuntu 12.04.

The problem is that when I'm dragging and dropping files on the phone the file transfer process just stops at random percentages.

I've been Googling a bit but I can't seem to find a direct solution.

Do you guys have any idea what's causing this and how I can fix it?

 

[BoosterDuck]

Does anyone know how I can output audio from both my speakers and headphones while being able to control their individual audio through volume control panel?

 

[Rufus]

Does anyone know how I can output audio from both my speakers and headphones while being able to control their individual audio through volume control panel?

Should be trivial provided you have two outputs, one for your speakers and one for your headphones.

 

[Oracle Dragon]

Hey tech-gaf, got one here I couldn't quite figure out:

I have a USB 3.0 hard drive which takes power from the USB port (ie: its a laptop drive in a USB 3 case, no external adapter needed for power).

When I use it on my home PC on the USB 3.0 ports, it constantly disconnects/reconnects from the system, you can't even use it. If I plug it in to my (powered) USB 2.0 hub, it works without issue (at USB 2.0 speed).

Some digging revealed a number of other people reporting similar behaviours, and it was due to the USB ports going into sleep mode to save power. Steps were provided to disable this mode in the advanced power settings, which I did.

However, in this case it made no difference, the drive continues to misbehave. I took it to my work PC, plugged it into the USB 3.0 ports, and it worked perfectly, so it's not the drive nor the enclosure (or even the cable).

Anyone encounter something like that before?

 

[Deleted member 125677]

My samsung synchmaster died. Black screen.

The weird thing is the little blue power on light still works, but nothing is displayed, not even the missing signal notification you usually get when video cable disconnects or menus

Trash it?

 

[BoosterDuck]

Should be trivial provided you have two outputs, one for your speakers and one for your headphones.

So if I get this sound card...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LP0R3E/?tag=neogaf0e-20

would it recognize both my speakers and headphones seperately?

 

[Rufus]

Yes, you'd use your on-board for one and the soundcard for the other. Not sure if that's going to cause conflicts down the line though. Usually you can configure what device games and programs should output to, so it shouldn't be an issue. Oh, and our resident "Build a PC" thread usually recommends the Asus Xonar DGX. Should be around the same price.

It might be easier than that if you have a front panel audio jack. I don't have my front panel audio hooked up (the interference finally got to me) so I can't test this out, but I'm pretty sure you can just change the volume of output devices in Windows via the sound devices control panel or whatever it's called. The sound card drivers should have options for that as well, or at the very least links to Windows' built in controls.

 

[Roto13]

Here are my three problems that all started at the same time so I assume they're related:

- My Windows gadgets (Windows 7) don't launch when my computer starts any more, and when I right click on the desktop and click "gadgets," nothing happens.

- The first time I right click on something in my system tray and click an option, that option stays on my screen forever until I restart.

- Facebook freezes in Chrome, but not in Waterfox.

These things all started the other day so I'm assuming they're all caused by the same thing. Any ideas? Oh, and bonus problem:

- The left button on my external mouse (I use a laptop) doesn't work unless I mash it, but that's likely because it's just wearing out.

 

[Megasoum]

Hey guys I need help with a virtual machine. Basically I want to up date to Win8 (don't ask...) but I need to keep a copy of Win7 on hand because my work VPN doesn't support 8.1. I don't really want to dual boot so a VM should be more than enough for my needs.

I set up and installed windows using Oracle VM Virtual Box which worked fine but I can't seem to set it up with a 16:9 resolution. The only options I have are 4:3 resolutions. Anybody know how to change that? I'd love to be able to go full screen on the VM when I have to work.

 

[wilflare]

okay maybe I should have posted here instead

SSD not detected on Cold Boot
using a Plextor M5Pro 128GB on my Asrock B85M Pro4
have already updated both to the latest firmware/BIOS
took a few restarts before the SSD was detected and I could boot into Windows

anyone can help with this?

 

[mrmisterwaa]

anyone can help with this?

I can think of several things that could be causing a problem.

Try disabling Hot Plug. Are you using the 6gb/s Sata ports or the 3gb/s?

 

[wilflare]

I can think of several things that could be causing a problem.

Try disabling Hot Plug. Are you using the 6gb/s Sata ports or the 3gb/s?

6GB SATA port
Hot Plug is disabled :/

it will take a few restarts (or for the system to be "warmed up") before the SSD is detected.
faulty cable/port?

 

[mrmisterwaa]

6GB SATA port
Hot Plug is disabled :/

it will take a few restarts (or for the system to be "warmed up") before the SSD is detected.
faulty cable/port?

It can be a lot of different things.

I doubt it would be related to not enough power since most SSD's don't use that much wattage. (Try to see if the power cable that is attached to it is connected properly.)

Try a different SATA Cable and/or Port and see what happens.

 

[wilflare]

It can be a lot of different things.

I doubt it would be related to not enough power since most SSD's don't use that much wattage. (Try to see if the power cable that is attached to it is connected properly.)

Try a different SATA Cable and/or Port and see what happens.

hmm I'm using a Seasonic 750W so I guess that should be fine.

the problem is I really don't get why it's so random!

I'm on Windows 8.1 Pro if it makes any difference.
The system will sometimes fail to detect the SSD when it wakes from boot, resulting in a BSOD and a reboot to BIOS :/

 

[Ra1den]

One day while listening to music, my Asus laptop sound stopped working( it happened right when I plugged in the power supply), and my audio icon started telling me that no audio device is installed, or something like that. I tried deleting and reinstalling drivers which didn't work, and then wiping my entire PC and starting with a fresh Windows 7 install, but that was only a temporary solution as the problem came back after a couple weeks. I think the hardware must be bad. As of right now it tells me that sound is working and I can even see that wavy graph thing move while playing audio in audio players, but I get no sound either with headphones or via laptop speakers.

Given that this is a laptop, my options for replacing hardware are limited, but I came across these "Espress card interfaces" which are supposed to replace the laptop's audio.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102025

My question is, are these by themselves sufficient to replace a completely faulty sound card like I have? In other words, are they an all-inclusive sound package? Or will they still rely on my (faulty) laptop sound hardware?

Are there any other hardware options to replace my sound hardware? Otherwise I'm stuck buying a new laptop...

edit: There is this as well, but I think this is just an adapter, and may rely on my current sound card?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/?tag=neogaf0e-20

 

[mrmisterwaa]

hmm I'm using a Seasonic 750W so I guess that should be fine.

the problem is I really don't get why it's so random!

I'm on Windows 8.1 Pro if it makes any difference.
The system will sometimes fail to detect the SSD when it wakes from boot, resulting in a BSOD and a reboot to BIOS :/

Have you tried replacing the cables/using different ports you never got back to me.

One day while listening to music, my Asus laptop sound stopped working( it happened right when I plugged in the power supply), and my audio icon started telling me that no audio device is installed, or something like that. I tried deleting and reinstalling drivers which didn't work, and then wiping my entire PC and starting with a fresh Windows 7 install, but that was only a temporary solution as the problem came back after a couple weeks. I think the hardware must be bad. As of right now it tells me that sound is working and I can even see that wavy graph thing move while playing audio in audio players, but I get no sound either with headphones or via laptop speakers.

Given that this is a laptop, my options for replacing hardware are limited, but I came across these "Espress card interfaces" which are supposed to replace the laptop's audio.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102025

My question is, are these by themselves sufficient to replace a completely faulty sound card like I have? In other words, are they an all-inclusive sound package? Or will they still rely on my (faulty) laptop sound hardware?

Are there any other hardware options to replace my sound hardware? Otherwise I'm stuck buying a new laptop...

edit: There is this as well, but I think this is just an adapter, and may rely on my current sound card?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MSS6CS/?tag=neogaf0e-20

If you are experiencing problems after using windows (and it reverting back to normal). It could be anything from faulty hardware to bad sectors on your hard drive.

Those adaptors should work if you choose to get one. It's pretty much up to you. Just hope there is a return period for some of these things if it doesn't work (or isn't compatible with your laptop)

I remember having one for my headphones (Steelseries headset came with USB audio stick) and I never experienced any problems with it. I say give it a try and it most likely will work. It does have it's own on-board processor (most likely).

 

[A Human Becoming]

Wow the audio from my new laptop is TERRIBLE, even after I updated the drivers! The audio from my iPad sounds better. Nothing I can do, right?

 

[BoosterDuck]

Is it fine to run registry cleaners from software like CCleaner and the like?

 

[Metalmurphy]

Is it fine to run registry cleaners from software like CCleaner and the like?

I wouldn't recommend it unless you see the entries it'll remove and approve them manually.

 

[wilflare]

Have you tried replacing the cables/using different ports you never got back to me.

hey! sorry for not getting back. I went to RMA my Plextor SSD and the new one seems to be working fine now on the same cables and ports!

thanks for helping me

 

[BoosterDuck]

Is there an anti-malware program that does scheduled scans for free?

 

[LuffyZoro]

Almost every time I switch to a different tab in Chrome, if I start scrolling the page zooms in or out depending on which way I scroll. It's not my keyboard, because I tried switching to a different one and the same problem happens, and I won't even have my hands near it while scrolling. This is on my desktop, and pretty much every result I can find in google is something about laptop trackpads.

 

[Danj]

Anyone have any ideas what might be causing the recent spate of STOP 0x0000001A MEMORY_MANAGEMENT blue screens I've been having lately?

Here's the most recent ones:

012014-6193-01.dmp 20/01/2014 16:59:04 MEMORY_MANAGEMENT 0x0000001a 00000000`00000403 fffff680`0004c4a0 80b00002`d0aa886f fffff680`0084c4a0 nvlddmkm.sys nvlddmkm.sys+1ec1ff x64 ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0 C:\Windows\Minidump\012014-6193-01.dmp 8 15 7601 292,984 20/01/2014 16:59:32
012014-6598-01.dmp 20/01/2014 06:53:46 MEMORY_MANAGEMENT 0x0000001a 00000000`00000403 fffff680`000f1cd0 f0800002`d0aa8867 fffff680`008f1cd0 ntoskrnl.exe ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0 NT Kernel & System Microsoft® Windows® Operating System Microsoft Corporation 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532) x64 ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0 C:\Windows\Minidump\012014-6598-01.dmp 8 15 7601 293,032 20/01/2014 06:54:15
010414-5850-01.dmp 04/01/2014 16:01:09 MEMORY_MANAGEMENT 0x0000001a 00000000`00000403 fffff680`000332a8 b3900002`d0aa8867 fffff680`008332a8 ntoskrnl.exe ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0 NT Kernel & System Microsoft® Windows® Operating System Microsoft Corporation 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532) x64 ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0 C:\Windows\Minidump\010414-5850-01.dmp 8 15 7601 292,384 04/01/2014 16:01:32
010414-6115-01.dmp 04/01/2014 15:59:49 MEMORY_MANAGEMENT 0x0000001a 00000000`00000403 fffff680`001bb4b0 d0600002`d0aa8867 fffff680`009bb4b0 ntoskrnl.exe ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0 NT Kernel & System Microsoft® Windows® Operating System Microsoft Corporation 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532) x64 ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0 C:\Windows\Minidump\010414-6115-01.dmp 8 15 7601 292,472 04/01/2014 16:00:19
122713-5678-01.dmp 27/12/2013 14:27:19 MEMORY_MANAGEMENT 0x0000001a 00000000`00000783 fffff880`0c3b73f0 fffff980`2a140000 fffff8a0`0c4abb70 ntoskrnl.exe ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0 NT Kernel & System Microsoft® Windows® Operating System Microsoft Corporation 6.1.7601.18247 (win7sp1_gdr.130828-1532) x64 ntoskrnl.exe+75bc0 C:\Windows\Minidump\122713-5678-01.dmp 8 15 7601 292,576 27/12/2013 14:27:40

That latest one seems like it's nVidia's fault, but I already have the latest non-beta driver, should I be using a beta driver?

It's also been suggested to me that this might be a result of wrong RAM timings. I know that I'd need to go into the BIOS to change those, but what should I change if that's the case?

Also, I've done a Windows Memory Diagnostic and it came up clean.

 

[Danj]

Almost every time I switch to a different tab in Chrome, if I start scrolling the page zooms in or out depending on which way I scroll. It's not my keyboard, because I tried switching to a different one and the same problem happens, and I won't even have my hands near it while scrolling. This is on my desktop, and pretty much every result I can find in google is something about laptop trackpads.

Have you accidentally turned on accessibility features like StickyKeys or FilterKeys? It sounds like the computer thinks the Ctrl key is stuck down or something.

 

[BLACK AMERICAN PSYCHO]

Windows 7 isn't downloading any updates for me. It says there are new updates available but stays on 0%. Any idea on how to fix it?

 

[LuffyZoro]

Have you accidentally turned on accessibility features like StickyKeys or FilterKeys? It sounds like the computer thinks the Ctrl key is stuck down or something.

Nope, I just checked. All off.

 

[Dick Justice]

Got a little problem making a system image of my PC. Recently bought a 4TB Seagate external hard drive, and when I go to make the image, I get some kind of error mentioning that one of the backup files couldn't be created, and that there's an I/O error. Here's the drive.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008B6ODMQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've heard about Windows 7 having issues with hard drives larger than 2TB, and that you should use a 3rd party back up program. Anyone have any recommendations?

 

[Ashhong]

So guys, I don't know what happened but suddenly my Windows PC did some kind of weird reset and my overclock got reset among other things in the BIOS. The PC is also running oddly slow. Anybody know why that would happen? I vaguely remember some kind of message on my screen about NVRAM but I might be confusing that with my Macbook which also went to shit recently.

Besides that though, before the reset I had my 2.8ghz E7400 overclocked to 3.4ghz and it was running nice. I can't remember at all what settings I had. Reading how to guide makes my head hurt and I was hoping for some quick advice. I am pretty sure the only thing I changed at the time was the FSB speed and CPU ratio. Is there a preferred speed/ratio that I should go with? Or should I just do like FSB 340 with ratio of 10? Does it matter how I do the ratio?

Got a little problem making a system image of my PC. Recently bought a 4TB Seagate external hard drive, and when I go to make the image, I get some kind of error mentioning that one of the backup files couldn't be created, and that there's an I/O error. Here's the drive.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008B6ODMQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've heard about Windows 7 having issues with hard drives larger than 2TB, and that you should use a 3rd party back up program. Anyone have any recommendations?

Maybe try making a partition for just your system image? Unless of course you need 4TB just for your image

 

[megarockexe]

So this is a fairly typical startup and cold boot hard drive activity on my laptop which is fairly new.

It makes the entire computer feel sluggish for a good 30 minutes, and this is when it was brand new out of the box. Is the hard drive that bad, or did I just get a bad drive? It's not like it's trivial to open either so I could just swap out the drive and I'd hate to have to do that.

 

[ambientmystic]

So this is a fairly typical startup and cold boot hard drive activity on my laptop which is fairly new.
http://i.imgur.com/14kdCGb.png[IMG]
It makes the entire computer feel sluggish for a good 30 minutes, and this is when it was brand new out of the box. Is the hard drive that bad, or did I just get a bad drive? It's not like it's trivial to open either so I could just swap out the drive and I'd hate to have to do that.[/QUOTE]

Seems like your laptop's HDD is being choked by startup processes upon bootup, from what you've posted above. It could be a particularly aggressive case of Indexing.

Try and disable Indexing and see whether the issue goes away. It could also be Superfetch; preloading all your most frequently used apps into RAM.

 

[scogoth]

So this is a fairly typical startup and cold boot hard drive activity on my laptop which is fairly new.

It makes the entire computer feel sluggish for a good 30 minutes, and this is when it was brand new out of the box. Is the hard drive that bad, or did I just get a bad drive? It's not like it's trivial to open either so I could just swap out the drive and I'd hate to have to do that.

Did you do a fresh install of Windows when you got the laptop? Often there is a lot of crap software pre loaded that can slow startup when you buy a laptop. Check the startup tab in task manager to see what is starting up and check the impact level. The low, medium, high impact level isn't the most precise but can be a good starting put to figuring out what is slowing your computer on start up.

 

[Hip Hop]

I posted this on another thread but I figured this might be a better place.


on a 2 screen setup, is there a way to switch from one screen to another while playing a game without ALT-Tabbing out?

 

[Yankee Ruin X]

Just wondering if anyone on GAF has any experience in setting up online shops. My missus just took a job at a company and has been tasked with brining them forward with the times. The company has been going for over 30 years and makes decent money, they sell their products internationally as well but all there custom is done over people seeing their one page website that doesn't even list the products they sell. It just has a phone number that people ring to order which we assume would be a big turn off for many.

She is hoping to get the website setup with an online shop so customers can order directly through that and hopefully this will bring in more customers allowing the business to grow.

I had a quick google search and saw Shopify and other sites like that, but I was just wondering if anyone here had dealings with sites like that or could recommend any of them.

It's a UK based business too if that makes any difference.

 

[Metalmurphy]

So this is a fairly typical startup and cold boot hard drive activity on my laptop which is fairly new.

It makes the entire computer feel sluggish for a good 30 minutes, and this is when it was brand new out of the box. Is the hard drive that bad, or did I just get a bad drive? It's not like it's trivial to open either so I could just swap out the drive and I'd hate to have to do that.

Check what is causing that disk activity in resource monitor or process explorer.

 

[AndyD]

I posted this on another thread but I figured this might be a better place.


on a 2 screen setup, is there a way to switch from one screen to another while playing a game without ALT-Tabbing out?

Only if you run the game in a window on one of the screens.

 

[bro1]

hmm I'm using a Seasonic 750W so I guess that should be fine.

the problem is I really don't get why it's so random!

I'm on Windows 8.1 Pro if it makes any difference.
The system will sometimes fail to detect the SSD when it wakes from boot, resulting in a BSOD and a reboot to BIOS :/

the drive is probably dying. Try a different port and then a different cable. Also, try a different power cable from your PSU

 

[Ashhong]

Can someone explain my memory to me?

Why is there so much inactive? My Macbook skips when I try to stream some music and am wondering if this is the cause

 

[scogoth]

Can someone explain my memory to me?

Why is there so much inactive? My Macbook skips when I try to stream some music and am wondering if this is the cause

Wired is RAM in use by system services and key components. Active is RAM that is in use by applications. Inactive is RAM that is not in current use but has been recently used and is being held onto incase an application wishes to use it again, technically it is available to use by any application if needed. Free available RAM that has no information stored in it.

The available RAM left is Inactive + Free. Ram that is being used is Wired + Active

 

[LuffyZoro]

Almost every time I switch to a different tab in Chrome, if I start scrolling the page zooms in or out depending on which way I scroll. It's not my keyboard, because I tried switching to a different one and the same problem happens, and I won't even have my hands near it while scrolling. This is on my desktop, and pretty much every result I can find in google is something about laptop trackpads.

Anyone?

 

[Husker86]

So I recently got CenturyLink gigabit internet. They need their devices plugged into their own router.

So...their router handles DHCP and such, but I also have a Netgear Nighthawk. It is set up on a different local IP (192.168.3.1 vs. CL's modem/gateway 192.168.0.1). If I leave the Nighthawk's router function on my internet works fine, but I heard you shouldn't have two devices handling DHCP/router functions.

I also tried setting my Nighthawk to just be an access point, and the internet works fine, but I lose some functions such as the traffic monitoring (I don't have caps but I'm a nerd and love numbers).

My question is, could I be theoretically losing performance by leaving my Nighthawk as a router and not just an access point? Only reason I'm worried is that I have yet to break around 260mbps down / 270 mbps up (I swear I'm not complaining), so I've been looking for some fast server to truly test the limit of my speed since I think the speedtest.net servers just aren't fast enough to give me accurate info. Or I could be just not getting near a gigabit from CL so I'm trying to figure that out.

 

[scogoth]

So I recently got CenturyLink gigabit internet. They need their devices plugged into their own router.

So...their router handles DHCP and such, but I also have a Netgear Nighthawk. It is set up on a different local IP (192.168.3.1 vs. CL's modem/gateway 192.168.0.1). If I leave the Nighthawk's router function on my internet works fine, but I heard you shouldn't have two devices handling DHCP/router functions.

I also tried setting my Nighthawk to just be an access point, and the internet works fine, but I lose some functions such as the traffic monitoring (I don't have caps but I'm a nerd and love numbers).

My question is, could I be theoretically losing performance by leaving my Nighthawk as a router and not just an access point? Only reason I'm worried is that I have yet to break around 260mbps down / 270 mbps up (I swear I'm not complaining), so I've been looking for some fast server to truly test the limit of my speed since I think the speedtest.net servers just aren't fast enough to give me accurate info. Or I could be just not getting near a gigabit from CL so I'm trying to figure that out.

I would try turning the DHCP off on the CenturyLink router, set a static IP on on the CL router to something like 192.168.0.1 and set the Nighthawk to 192.168.0.2
Then set all ports to forward to 192.168.0.2 or put that IP in the DMZ on the CL router. Then have the Nighthawk to issue DCHP on 192.168.1.x for all the other devices

Its a double router but effectively the CL router is transparent and all traffic is forwarded to the Nighthawk.

 

[Husker86]

I would try turning the DHCP off on the CenturyLink router, set a static IP on on the CL router to something like 192.168.0.1 and set the Nighthawk to 192.168.0.2
Then set all ports to forward to 192.168.0.2 or put that IP in the DMZ on the CL router. Then have the Nighthawk to issue DCHP on 192.168.1.x for all the other devices

Its a double router but effectively the CL router is transparent and all traffic is forwarded to the Nighthawk.

Makes sense, I'll try that. Like I said, I can't see a performance hit with what I'm doing now, but that sounds like a "cleaner" setup for two routers.

Thanks!