mrmisterwaa
Neo Member
Honestly? Surface Pro.
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Honestly? Surface Pro.
Bumblebeetuna
Member
So I have a video card (8800GT) that only has 2 DVI ports on it. My monitor suddenly stopped recognizing it today when I was at work and my kids were on it. The monitor tries to recognize a new signal if I unplug the cord from the PC and plug it back in, so I am assuming both the monitor and cable are fine. The card is still on, the fan is spinning. Or I think anyway, maybe the fan can still be going and the card is dead. My PC has only a male VGA port on it and I cannot find my extender to stick my male cable in from the monitor so I won't know shit until tomorrow when I can go buy another double female sided adapter. But has anyone had this happen before? I am hoping maybe me kids fucked up some setting and the card is not dead.
mrmisterwaa
Neo Member
Edit: Before you read further - Please make sure you have updated all drivers.
Well there are several possibilities.
1) Cable is damaged.
2) Monitor is damaged.
3) GFX card is damaged.
4) GFX moved out of PCI slot
The best thing to do at the moment try to see what would be the culprit.
What you can do to solve the problem:
1) Check to see if all cables & GFX are attached properly.
2) Try monitor with another rig/laptop to see if it working properly.
3) Try GFX with another rig to see if it working properly.
4) Try another set of cables.
If you see it's the graphics card that is causing the problem. Time to get a new one. AMD are doing pretty good with the prices.
The switch that was dropping me to 280mbps was a Belkin N+ router (hooked to the Nighthawk which was hooked to the CL modem). But even hooked to the Netgear Nighthawk AC router I wasn't getting far over 500mbps.
notoriousKTR
Member
You can't refer a router as a switch, even though the manufacture says its a router with a 4-port switch. Utter BS. So the reason why the Belkin is slow is because its CPU can't route fast enough.
As for your Nighthawk issue (a router with a CPU that can route fast enough), are you using PPPoE to connect to the internet? In other words, do you have to log in (username password) to connect to the internet? Do you have QoS enabled on the Nighthawk? QoS could be throttling down the speed.
br0ken_shad0w
Member
I decided to install the most recent Nvidia drivers, when bam BSOD during installation. First BSOD since building this PC. While trying to pinpoint the problem, it seems to occur with ver 332 and 334 (beta). Drivers older than those seems to go through without any problems during the installation process.
Here is a link to the .dmp files: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fk3m2qrnkrb1a8x/TAakNKFIfG
Win SDK's installer is messing up for some reason, so I can't analyze it myself.
However once I reinstalled the drivers, it started a new problem where if I restart/shut down my PC it leads to Nvidia's black screen problem with the only fix is to do a cold boot. This is occurring now with all the drivers I installed (even the older ones that had no issues before) and just started because I tried to install the new drivers today. It's especially annoying because I began to shut down since I now have an SSD (usually I leave my PC on 24/7).
Edit: Figured it out. Was a PSU issue. I have an i7 4770k (not OC'd) and 2x GTX 760. I figured a Corsair HX750 would be enough to run my rig, but it seems adding this (among other things) put it over the edge.
Here is a link to the .dmp files: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fk3m2qrnkrb1a8x/TAakNKFIfG
Win SDK's installer is messing up for some reason, so I can't analyze it myself.
However once I reinstalled the drivers, it started a new problem where if I restart/shut down my PC it leads to Nvidia's black screen problem with the only fix is to do a cold boot. This is occurring now with all the drivers I installed (even the older ones that had no issues before) and just started because I tried to install the new drivers today. It's especially annoying because I began to shut down since I now have an SSD (usually I leave my PC on 24/7).
Edit: Figured it out. Was a PSU issue. I have an i7 4770k (not OC'd) and 2x GTX 760. I figured a Corsair HX750 would be enough to run my rig, but it seems adding this (among other things) put it over the edge.
Interesting...I assumed, especially if I had the router functions off, handling a gigabit network wouldn't be an issue for any router that said it was gigabit capable.
I'm not using PPPoE, and QoS is disabled—I can't even turn it on when I have the Nighthawk set up as just an access point.
I'll probably try messing with it more later, but I ran another ethernet cable to be able to directly wire my PC into the CenturyLink router for now. The Nighthawk is still a great WiFi access point at least.
edit: QoS is turned on on the CenturyLink router, it prioritizes their Prism TV services, but I don't think that can explain the differences since PC wired directly to it is fine.
RoninChaos
Member
Can anyone here suggest a tutorial for actually mounting a mother board and plugging in the right cables to the actual board ? (Power USB etc) I can do everything for a computer build but I'm scared of doing that.
The motherboard manual will usually mention everything you need to know.
Otherwise, take your pick:
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=install motherboard&sm=3
Otherwise, take your pick:
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=install motherboard&sm=3
homeworkfilms
Member
solved
SecretMoblin
Member
pc gaming tech question:
I run an AMD card and D3DOverrider is always on in the background with VSync applied globally. But often I notice that if I run a game without the in-app VSync turned on, there's noticeable tearing. Am I missing a D3DOverrider setting somewhere, or is it just one of many quirks, that I might have to "double apply" VSync?
I'm just a bit confused.
I run an AMD card and D3DOverrider is always on in the background with VSync applied globally. But often I notice that if I run a game without the in-app VSync turned on, there's noticeable tearing. Am I missing a D3DOverrider setting somewhere, or is it just one of many quirks, that I might have to "double apply" VSync?
I'm just a bit confused.
So I think my 1 year old hit something, but I can't for the life of me find out what. All my Google search results now look like this.
Edit: also, It's not zoomed, first thing I looked at.
The font got a tad bigger, and lost the underline. If I use my GF's Google account in a different tab, it looks normal.
Shit is driving me insane.
Edit: also, It's not zoomed, first thing I looked at.
D
Deleted member 1235
Unconfirmed Member
Don't delete the folders! You need to delete the profiles, you can get to their locations from properties of my computer but I'm on mobile and forget the exact tab.
If it's saying something about a really long code of numbers needs to give permissions, that's a SID for an. Account that no longer exists. Alternatively if it's dualboot it could be an account on another windows install if they can both view the same voulume.
wsoxfan1214
Banned
Any suggestions for ports I can close on my router or anything to avoid being given host in games?
I'm at college so the games look at the entire connection and think I'd be a great host. Until I get it, then it kills the bandwidth for my room and cuts my net for a bit.
Disabling UPnP and getting rid of the static IP address I used for port forwarding made it less common, but it still happens.
I'm at college so the games look at the entire connection and think I'd be a great host. Until I get it, then it kills the bandwidth for my room and cuts my net for a bit.
Disabling UPnP and getting rid of the static IP address I used for port forwarding made it less common, but it still happens.
Hi everyone,
I have a wifi and router question and i'm looking for some suggestions.
For the past few years my family has been using the Linksys e2000 router. It is set up in our office, which is in the corner off of our living room. We have our printer, a phone, and an xbox 360 connected via ethernet to this router and none of them have any problems. All of those being located in that room means I don't have much say in moving the router elsewhere in our house. The problem is that the wifi will not reach my bedroom. If anything, I get one bar at most on my laptop. My xbox 360 will connect then disconnect back and forth when using the wireless.
I'm not sure if the problem is the router's wifi signal, or if the distance to my room is just unrealistic for a router's range. Something else to know is that we used to have a Linksys wrt54g router, which could reach all the way up to my room from the basement without any connection problems. That's why i'm thinking the problem could be our current router.
I set up a set of powerline adapters that work fine, but the outlets in my room are on a different power grid, so I have to run the ethernet out into the hallway where I have the adapter plugged in. It's just a temporary thing for now because people will trip over the wire and pull it out as well as it sort of being an eyesore.
An option could also be to buy a range extender to put in my brother's bedroom, which is just over halfway between my room and the router.
I'll soon be purchasing either a ps4 or xbox one and want to be able to get a connection in my room for both my laptop and a console, so this is pretty much why i'm coming here for help.
Here is a crappy mspaint layout of my house to give a visual of what i'm working with.
I'm currently at work, so I can update any detailed information when I get home in a bit.
Thanks for any help or suggestions.
I have a wifi and router question and i'm looking for some suggestions.
For the past few years my family has been using the Linksys e2000 router. It is set up in our office, which is in the corner off of our living room. We have our printer, a phone, and an xbox 360 connected via ethernet to this router and none of them have any problems. All of those being located in that room means I don't have much say in moving the router elsewhere in our house. The problem is that the wifi will not reach my bedroom. If anything, I get one bar at most on my laptop. My xbox 360 will connect then disconnect back and forth when using the wireless.
I'm not sure if the problem is the router's wifi signal, or if the distance to my room is just unrealistic for a router's range. Something else to know is that we used to have a Linksys wrt54g router, which could reach all the way up to my room from the basement without any connection problems. That's why i'm thinking the problem could be our current router.
I set up a set of powerline adapters that work fine, but the outlets in my room are on a different power grid, so I have to run the ethernet out into the hallway where I have the adapter plugged in. It's just a temporary thing for now because people will trip over the wire and pull it out as well as it sort of being an eyesore.
An option could also be to buy a range extender to put in my brother's bedroom, which is just over halfway between my room and the router.
I'll soon be purchasing either a ps4 or xbox one and want to be able to get a connection in my room for both my laptop and a console, so this is pretty much why i'm coming here for help.
Here is a crappy mspaint layout of my house to give a visual of what i'm working with.
I'm currently at work, so I can update any detailed information when I get home in a bit.
Thanks for any help or suggestions.
I have a dell inspiron n5110, I just put autocad on it, but it runs fairly slowly. Would replacing my HDD with a SSD likely solve this? If so will any 2.5" SSD work?
Also I didn't get a windows 7 disc with my computer, about summer 2011, and I tried using dells site a few weeks ago to request the disc but it wouldn't work for me. Is there a way I can backup the OS to say an external hard drive and then install it on the SSD?
Also I didn't get a windows 7 disc with my computer, about summer 2011, and I tried using dells site a few weeks ago to request the disc but it wouldn't work for me. Is there a way I can backup the OS to say an external hard drive and then install it on the SSD?
Is there anything I could do? Without purchasing a new laptop.
more memory.
Well i checked and with autocad on my laptop was running at about 2.5/6 gigs. I guess its not so much that its slow its more that my cursor is choppy in the drawing window, everything loads up quickly and the commands start when i enter them.
Different problem now, recently my the desktop on my laptop seemed to be locking up, the taskbar would work and I could open programs but I couldn't click on anything. I have just realized that the problem seems to only exist with my wireless mouse, if I turn it off everything works using my touchpad.
Anyone know what could be causing this? I don't mind using the touchpad for the internet and ms office stuff, but I would prefer to have a mouse for autocad.
Different problem now, recently my the desktop on my laptop seemed to be locking up, the taskbar would work and I could open programs but I couldn't click on anything. I have just realized that the problem seems to only exist with my wireless mouse, if I turn it off everything works using my touchpad.
Anyone know what could be causing this? I don't mind using the touchpad for the internet and ms office stuff, but I would prefer to have a mouse for autocad.
Really looking for some solid advice here. These are my specs before I get into anything else:
CPU: i5 2500K
Mobo: Asus P8P67LE
RAM: 8GB G Skill
HDD: WDD Caviar Black 120GB + 750GB
PSU - Rosewill 550W
Optical: Asus DVD/CD writer
GPU: 560ti
Here's what's going on. I recently installed W8.1, up from W7. Everything has been running flawlessly for roughly two weeks. Let's say last, Wednesday or Thursday (the 29th or 30th in January), W8.1 wanted to do a update. I let it download the updates like usual and it asked to install them when I went to shutdown my PC. Windows shut down like normal, but then sat there like it was still on, but it wasn't. Only the fans and lights, remained on. I thought maybe this was a fluke so I left it be for a while, but it never turned off. The only way to power off my PC now is by flipping the switch on the PSU. I have to turn it on the same way and as soon as I slip the switch to power it back on, the computer powers up. My monitor then sits at a black screen cycling through the input options (digital, HDMI, optical, etc). It won't do anything. In order to get Windows to boot I have to press the power button on my tower and then it will show the BIOS screen and boot into Windows like normal. It never says that Windows failed to start or anything like that. Rinse and repeat. I got fed up with it the other day and tried to fix it because I couldn't understand what would cause that out of the blue.
I tried performing a system and that didn't help. I restored to a point further back in time, that did not help either. Flash forward to yesterday. I did a fresh install of W8.1 and it's still not shutting down properly, even with just W8.1 installed and no other programs. I've tried shutting down properly in safe mode also, to no avail. I should mention I always right-click the Windows button and select Shut Down from there. I never use my keyboard to put the computer to sleep, hibernate, or shut down. I do not use the power button on my tower either.
Things to note: I've already tried disabling that "fast boot" option or what ever in Windows 8 and that did not help. My system is clean. Nothing was changed by my hand in the BIOS when this began happening. Other than this issue, the computer works fine.
Any help would be appreciated so much.
CPU: i5 2500K
Mobo: Asus P8P67LE
RAM: 8GB G Skill
HDD: WDD Caviar Black 120GB + 750GB
PSU - Rosewill 550W
Optical: Asus DVD/CD writer
GPU: 560ti
Here's what's going on. I recently installed W8.1, up from W7. Everything has been running flawlessly for roughly two weeks. Let's say last, Wednesday or Thursday (the 29th or 30th in January), W8.1 wanted to do a update. I let it download the updates like usual and it asked to install them when I went to shutdown my PC. Windows shut down like normal, but then sat there like it was still on, but it wasn't. Only the fans and lights, remained on. I thought maybe this was a fluke so I left it be for a while, but it never turned off. The only way to power off my PC now is by flipping the switch on the PSU. I have to turn it on the same way and as soon as I slip the switch to power it back on, the computer powers up. My monitor then sits at a black screen cycling through the input options (digital, HDMI, optical, etc). It won't do anything. In order to get Windows to boot I have to press the power button on my tower and then it will show the BIOS screen and boot into Windows like normal. It never says that Windows failed to start or anything like that. Rinse and repeat. I got fed up with it the other day and tried to fix it because I couldn't understand what would cause that out of the blue.
I tried performing a system and that didn't help. I restored to a point further back in time, that did not help either. Flash forward to yesterday. I did a fresh install of W8.1 and it's still not shutting down properly, even with just W8.1 installed and no other programs. I've tried shutting down properly in safe mode also, to no avail. I should mention I always right-click the Windows button and select Shut Down from there. I never use my keyboard to put the computer to sleep, hibernate, or shut down. I do not use the power button on my tower either.
Things to note: I've already tried disabling that "fast boot" option or what ever in Windows 8 and that did not help. My system is clean. Nothing was changed by my hand in the BIOS when this began happening. Other than this issue, the computer works fine.
Any help would be appreciated so much.
BeautifulMemory
Member
Internet help.
I have Comcast. My personal modem is Motorola Surfboard SB6121. Router is Linksys WRT54GL.
This started last week when everyday at night, around 10, 11pm, or midnight, my internet would slow down to a halt, like all my bandwith is being sucked up, and no, I am not downloading anything at all. At first I thought maybe someone got onto my wireless network, but I see no one here. I thought maybe it has to do with Comast, so I let it go. But it's been a week, and it's still happening. My computer says I have strong signal strength. I called Comcast and they said I have strong signal strength. They suggest that maybe something is wrong with my modem or router. But can that be true? This happens only at night.
And for what is worth, I have tried powercycling, nothing worked. I even tried to just plugged the ethernet cord straight to my computer, and funnily my computer doesn't pick up any internet signal. But if I use my router again, I can use internet (like what I am doing now). I ran a speedtest and it says my download speed is 1.77 mbps, and upload speed .25 mbps. I don't know what that means. All I know is my internet is slow
And I just ran the speedtest again I am down to 2.36 mbps for download and .12 mbps for upload.
Any advice and suggestion on what I can do is appreciated.
I have Comcast. My personal modem is Motorola Surfboard SB6121. Router is Linksys WRT54GL.
This started last week when everyday at night, around 10, 11pm, or midnight, my internet would slow down to a halt, like all my bandwith is being sucked up, and no, I am not downloading anything at all. At first I thought maybe someone got onto my wireless network, but I see no one here. I thought maybe it has to do with Comast, so I let it go. But it's been a week, and it's still happening. My computer says I have strong signal strength. I called Comcast and they said I have strong signal strength. They suggest that maybe something is wrong with my modem or router. But can that be true? This happens only at night.
And for what is worth, I have tried powercycling, nothing worked. I even tried to just plugged the ethernet cord straight to my computer, and funnily my computer doesn't pick up any internet signal. But if I use my router again, I can use internet (like what I am doing now). I ran a speedtest and it says my download speed is 1.77 mbps, and upload speed .25 mbps. I don't know what that means. All I know is my internet is slow
And I just ran the speedtest again I am down to 2.36 mbps for download and .12 mbps for upload.
Any advice and suggestion on what I can do is appreciated.
Internet help.
I have Comcast. My personal modem is Motorola Surfboard SB6121. Router is Linksys WRT54GL.
This started last week when everyday at night, around 10, 11pm, or midnight, my internet would slow down to a halt, like all my bandwith is being sucked up, and no, I am not downloading anything at all. At first I thought maybe someone got onto my wireless network, but I see no one here. I thought maybe it has to do with Comast, so I let it go. But it's been a week, and it's still happening. My computer says I have strong signal strength. I called Comcast and they said I have strong signal strength. They suggest that maybe something is wrong with my modem or router. But can that be true? This happens only at night.
And for what is worth, I have tried powercycling, nothing worked. I even tried to just plugged the ethernet cord straight to my computer, and funnily my computer doesn't pick up any internet signal. But if I use my router again, I can use internet (like what I am doing now). I ran a speedtest and it says my download speed is 1.77 mbps, and upload speed .25 mbps. I don't know what that means. All I know is my internet is slow
And I just ran the speedtest again I am down to 2.36 mbps for download and .12 mbps for upload.
Any advice and suggestion on what I can do is appreciated.
What type of wireless encryption are you using?
BeautifulMemory
Member
how do I find the specific answer to your question? Thanks for responding, btw
I looked under the security settings, I don't know if this is what you were asking:
Firewall Protection: Enable ( I just turned it on...this was off, and my connection seems a lot better now)
Block Anonymous Internet Requests
Filter Multicast
Filter Internet NAT Redirection (didn't check this)
Filter IDENT(Port 113)
And under VPN
everything is enabled IPSec Passthrough, PPTP Passthrough, L2TP Passthrough
P.S. Internet seems to be in order after I enabled firewall...does this mean someone was leeching off my internet? How can I tell and prevent in the future?
notoriousKTR
Member
Here is a simpler question. Do you have to enter a password to connect to your WiFi?
If so you have encryption enabled, if not, you don't and you wireless is free to be leached by anyone.
Strange question here.
I have recently bought a GTX 780 and tried out the wonders of Downsampling.
The weird thing is, sometimes it works, other times, something strange happens. In Source games, Warframe and a few others 4K works fine using the usual downsampling method. Some games (Like King's Bounty, Blur, Geometry Wars and a few others) turn into a black screen/desktop disco and wont work at all and a few like Dead Island are in the middle. These games all are fine downsampled from 2880 x 1620, to complicate things.
Dead Island works in 4K, but every so often the screen would go black, aside from the top 2% or so of the screen. Alt Tab out of the game restores it, but the issue re-occurs. Using the current beta 334.67 and connecting via HDMI to a 32" EX723 Sony HDTV if that helps at all. Any suggestions would be very appreciated as when it works, downsampling from 4K is incredible.
I have recently bought a GTX 780 and tried out the wonders of Downsampling.
The weird thing is, sometimes it works, other times, something strange happens. In Source games, Warframe and a few others 4K works fine using the usual downsampling method. Some games (Like King's Bounty, Blur, Geometry Wars and a few others) turn into a black screen/desktop disco and wont work at all and a few like Dead Island are in the middle. These games all are fine downsampled from 2880 x 1620, to complicate things.
Dead Island works in 4K, but every so often the screen would go black, aside from the top 2% or so of the screen. Alt Tab out of the game restores it, but the issue re-occurs. Using the current beta 334.67 and connecting via HDMI to a 32" EX723 Sony HDTV if that helps at all. Any suggestions would be very appreciated as when it works, downsampling from 4K is incredible.
BeautifulMemory
Member
I have a password. And my internet is acting slow again. What the hell. Can it really be the modem/router?
edit: ran a diagnostic and turns out it's a common problem with Win7 and DNS...so I had add some kind of preferred DNS address rather than leaving it on auto
CurlySaysX
Banned
Hi.
Any macbook/apple expert mind helping me with somehting?
I unplugged my macbook for 2 weeks and the battery ran out and now the thing will not charge. It was holding charge perfectly before it stopped charging.
I have tried the alt command r p reset thing, and the unplugging the battery and magsafe holding the power button reset thing also but no luck.
Is there another secret button combo that will force a bit of charge into the battery so that it can reset itself and charge? WTF kind of design is this? I have an IBM that is 2X as old and stored for over 3 years with the battery plugged in and the battery still manages to hold charge.
Anyway... any help is appreciated.
It's a Macbook13 white, Core2Duo edition with removable battery pack. It's probably around 6 years old and running OSX.
Any macbook/apple expert mind helping me with somehting?
I unplugged my macbook for 2 weeks and the battery ran out and now the thing will not charge. It was holding charge perfectly before it stopped charging.
I have tried the alt command r p reset thing, and the unplugging the battery and magsafe holding the power button reset thing also but no luck.
Is there another secret button combo that will force a bit of charge into the battery so that it can reset itself and charge? WTF kind of design is this? I have an IBM that is 2X as old and stored for over 3 years with the battery plugged in and the battery still manages to hold charge.
Anyway... any help is appreciated.
It's a Macbook13 white, Core2Duo edition with removable battery pack. It's probably around 6 years old and running OSX.
PC Info:
WD Caviar Black 1TB 7200rpm 64MB SATA3
Intel Core i5-2500K, 3.30GHz, 6MB, HD3000, S1
Asus P8P67 PRO (B3), S1155, P67, 4xDDR3, ATX
Asus GeForce GTX 570, 1280MB, DirectCU II
Corsair HX850, 850Watt, ATX
Corsair Vengeance 8GB(2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL8
I'm suffering from freezing problems/crashes related to my graphics card. About a month ago my computer just suddenly restarted (without showing a blue screen) when using Firefox (26). Gave bugcheckcode 278 (or 0x116). After reboot it happened again pretty much as soon as I did something in Firefox. I was on driver 327.23 at the time. Updated the driver to 331.82. Then for about two days the driver would just sometimes crash and in the bottom right corner there would be a message saying the driver has recovered. So no actual restart of the computer. I was constantly running OpenHardwareMonitor and the GPU temp was mid to high 30s and then of course you would see when the driver crashed in the graph. After those two days it stopped giving any problems. Then about 2 weeks later my computer just froze, again while using Firefox. I disabled auto restart on failure so I think that's why it froze instead of rebooting. I played an hour of Max Payne 3 the previous day and temps of the GPU were mid to high 70s. Updated drivers again to 332.21 and it ran fine for about two days in which I played Max Payne and Civ 5 and temps were again in the mid to high 70s. Then yesterday I booted up Max Payne 3 after a day of just browsing and it froze 1 minute into gameplay. A couple of hours later it also happened 10s into Civ V gameplay. And immediately after that it happened in Firefox. All freezes and crashes had the same bugcheckcode (278 / 0x116).
So, any advice? It happened using three different drivers, so is it worth downgrading to something way older? Is my card just broken and there's nothing to do about it?
WD Caviar Black 1TB 7200rpm 64MB SATA3
Intel Core i5-2500K, 3.30GHz, 6MB, HD3000, S1
Asus P8P67 PRO (B3), S1155, P67, 4xDDR3, ATX
Asus GeForce GTX 570, 1280MB, DirectCU II
Corsair HX850, 850Watt, ATX
Corsair Vengeance 8GB(2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL8
I'm suffering from freezing problems/crashes related to my graphics card. About a month ago my computer just suddenly restarted (without showing a blue screen) when using Firefox (26). Gave bugcheckcode 278 (or 0x116). After reboot it happened again pretty much as soon as I did something in Firefox. I was on driver 327.23 at the time. Updated the driver to 331.82. Then for about two days the driver would just sometimes crash and in the bottom right corner there would be a message saying the driver has recovered. So no actual restart of the computer. I was constantly running OpenHardwareMonitor and the GPU temp was mid to high 30s and then of course you would see when the driver crashed in the graph. After those two days it stopped giving any problems. Then about 2 weeks later my computer just froze, again while using Firefox. I disabled auto restart on failure so I think that's why it froze instead of rebooting. I played an hour of Max Payne 3 the previous day and temps of the GPU were mid to high 70s. Updated drivers again to 332.21 and it ran fine for about two days in which I played Max Payne and Civ 5 and temps were again in the mid to high 70s. Then yesterday I booted up Max Payne 3 after a day of just browsing and it froze 1 minute into gameplay. A couple of hours later it also happened 10s into Civ V gameplay. And immediately after that it happened in Firefox. All freezes and crashes had the same bugcheckcode (278 / 0x116).
So, any advice? It happened using three different drivers, so is it worth downgrading to something way older? Is my card just broken and there's nothing to do about it?
BigJonsson
Member
This is strange
A couple times this week I have left my laptop running, walked away for a few hours, came back and it was completely off
Hit the power button and it took me to the press f1 to resume, f2 to setup bios screen and the clock settings were showing july 9, 2009, 00:00.....
Other times I have come back to the laptop and the power button is still lit up, but the display doesn't turn back on, completely black screen
There doesn't seem to be a pattern to when this happens, usually it is fine =/
The computer itself is running well when I am using it
=/
The only other issues I've had with this machine is the thermal paste having to be reapplied every 6 months or so and if I move the screen too much it glitches out (but I can work around that one)
A couple times this week I have left my laptop running, walked away for a few hours, came back and it was completely off
Hit the power button and it took me to the press f1 to resume, f2 to setup bios screen and the clock settings were showing july 9, 2009, 00:00.....
Other times I have come back to the laptop and the power button is still lit up, but the display doesn't turn back on, completely black screen
There doesn't seem to be a pattern to when this happens, usually it is fine =/
The computer itself is running well when I am using it
=/
The only other issues I've had with this machine is the thermal paste having to be reapplied every 6 months or so and if I move the screen too much it glitches out (but I can work around that one)
Internet Explorer (and sometimes Chrome as well) is acting very funky when it comes to displaying graphics on my laptop. See screenshot below:
http://imgur.com/0usOPpu
I've tried resetting IE. Upgraded to IE11, same prob, downgraded to IE9 same prob. Thoroughly checked for viruses/malware with full scans on malwarebytes and MSE, nothing found.
Will try uninstalling/installing graphics drivers next. Any other ideas welcome if they've seen an issue like this before.
http://imgur.com/0usOPpu
I've tried resetting IE. Upgraded to IE11, same prob, downgraded to IE9 same prob. Thoroughly checked for viruses/malware with full scans on malwarebytes and MSE, nothing found.
Will try uninstalling/installing graphics drivers next. Any other ideas welcome if they've seen an issue like this before.
CurlySaysX
Banned
Looks like a graphic card driver issue.
Sub_Level
wants to fuck an Asian grill.
It's either graphics drivers or your monitor. The latter is easily replaceable.
Spring-Loaded
Member
I'm looking for what's a good way to uninstall Windows 8 32-bit and then install 64-bit. we put the 32-bit disc in since the instructions said to start with that disc, then there'd be a prompt to switch to 64-bit, but that seemingly didn't happen
I'm trying to relay the steps through email/phone, so if there are any good, yet simple how-to resources, that'd be great.
I'm trying to relay the steps through email/phone, so if there are any good, yet simple how-to resources, that'd be great.
PumpkinPie
Banned
Can overheating cause "... has stopped working" messages? I think my laptop is overheating during games as I'm getting that error message and then the programme will close.
ambientmystic
Member
It's possible, but you're better off verifying whether or not your laptop is overheating via the use of a CPU and GPU monitoring program like HWMonitor in conjunction with GPUz whilst running your games. Run both programs and your game in windowed mode so that you can see it for yourself when and if the temperatures are reaching the critical threshold.
Anyone have a problem where their cursor is really big? I'm pretty sure it's a Catalyst issue.
If I turn on mouse shadow, the regular cursor stays normal size, but when I move it onto a text box, the cursor is really big (or any other version of the cursor).
Turning off mouse shadow, it's the large size again. If I use the magnifier tool and set it to 100% (normal), the cursor goes back to normal size even though nothing is being magnified.
I think it has something to do with resolution or something. The monitor resolution is 1360x768.
Help? It's really annoying. My bios is the latest available.
EDIT: Also, Catalyst is reporting is saying that my max resolution available is 1920x1080 at 75Hz which I don't believe is accurate. The native is 1360x768. Anyway to fix that?
If I turn on mouse shadow, the regular cursor stays normal size, but when I move it onto a text box, the cursor is really big (or any other version of the cursor).
Turning off mouse shadow, it's the large size again. If I use the magnifier tool and set it to 100% (normal), the cursor goes back to normal size even though nothing is being magnified.
I think it has something to do with resolution or something. The monitor resolution is 1360x768.
Help? It's really annoying. My bios is the latest available.
EDIT: Also, Catalyst is reporting is saying that my max resolution available is 1920x1080 at 75Hz which I don't believe is accurate. The native is 1360x768. Anyway to fix that?
repost from the Windows 8.1 OT:
I just tried starting my computer up three times and it would just go to the WIndows logo screen then both of my monitors would just go to a black screen two of those times. It's working now but any suggestions on what happened?
I'm running two security scans right now then I'm going to restart my computer again to see if everything is back to normal.
I just tried starting my computer up three times and it would just go to the WIndows logo screen then both of my monitors would just go to a black screen two of those times. It's working now but any suggestions on what happened?
I'm running two security scans right now then I'm going to restart my computer again to see if everything is back to normal.
Maybe it's your bios or gfx drivers?
ambientmystic
Member
What's the AMD/ATI graphics card model and the Catalyst version you're using? It could be a driver specific bug. Has it always been this way or did the issue appear recently? Any recent software changes to your system?
What's the best remote access client for a small business?
I'm trying to find a reliable, hassle-free remote desktop client that doesn't require me to configure routers, firewalls, etc.
So far I've tried the following (free versions):
I prefer Team Viewer but the commercial licensing for both of these seems really high up there - especially for a start up business. I occasionally need to access clients' computers but most of my clients have multiple PCs or Macs so the whole "per-workstation" licensing gets expensive quick and I can't justify spending $500+/year for a license just yet.
So TechGAF, what are your suggestions?
PS I just ran across Tech Inline and it looks somewhat promising - thoughts?
I'm trying to find a reliable, hassle-free remote desktop client that doesn't require me to configure routers, firewalls, etc.
So far I've tried the following (free versions):
- LogMeIn
- Team Viewer
I prefer Team Viewer but the commercial licensing for both of these seems really high up there - especially for a start up business. I occasionally need to access clients' computers but most of my clients have multiple PCs or Macs so the whole "per-workstation" licensing gets expensive quick and I can't justify spending $500+/year for a license just yet.
So TechGAF, what are your suggestions?
PS I just ran across Tech Inline and it looks somewhat promising - thoughts?
grap3fruitman
Banned
If it doesn't fit, it doesn't go there.
mrmisterwaa
Neo Member
Mount Shasta
Neo Member
Hello Gaf, I've been having this issue for a while now but it doesn't always occur so I've just been kind of dealing with it. Basically every once in a while when i start up my computer it will not display properly. It will show random vertical colors on a black screen, although it's clear that the computer starts up normally. My solution has been to just turn it off and hope it resolves itself after waiting for 10-30 minutes before trying again, and it usually does.
I'd like to find out exactly what's going on so this doesn't happen anymore. Clearly it's a display issue so im thinking graphics card, which makes me sad because it's only a year and 6 months oldish. I've had a similar problem in the past where it was the psu though. I suppose it could possibly also be the motherboard, although I doubt it.
Any ideas?
Pics of the problem below.
I'd like to find out exactly what's going on so this doesn't happen anymore. Clearly it's a display issue so im thinking graphics card, which makes me sad because it's only a year and 6 months oldish. I've had a similar problem in the past where it was the psu though. I suppose it could possibly also be the motherboard, although I doubt it.
Any ideas?
Pics of the problem below.
Using an R7 260X. Catalyst 13.12. I don't remember if it was there since I built it (I don't think it was actually), but I do remember it there for a while. I built this last month. All the latest drivers.
Apparently this has been a problem for a while with Catalyst or something, existent during the 5000 series as well.
Since it's a new build, I've installed Office, Steam games and other normal stuff you'd find.
I think it might've been because I forced a non-native resolution before because I thought this screen was 1080p, but it wasn't (it's an HDTV). But I'm using the native resolution now and it should go back to normal so I don't understand.
This is most likely a video card issue or a monitor issue. The easiest way to test this is hook the monitor up to anything else and see if the issue persists. If it doesn't, you've ruled out the monitor and your video card is probably dying. If it does, the monitor is screwed.
As for the possibility of it being the motherboard.... well it's possible, but you'd either need another computer to test the video card in or have an integrated solution on your motherboard to try out.
Mount Shasta
Neo Member
Yea, my issue is that I don't have another computer, or access to another computer to really test anything using hardware.
Another issue is this problem only occurs maybe once every 2-5 days. Even if I swap in another video card, I wouldn't really know whether that specific action solved the problem because the problem usually resolves itself right away anyway.