My desktop, which I kept at my friend's house for watching movies and letting him play his Steam games, suddenly stopped working. It turns on, and tries to go through the startup, but stops when two dots of the logo appear; normally it loads the Welcome screen when the four balls loop around before they meet. Here are some shots of the current order it starts up in.
After freezing the logo and flashing a blue screen, it'll ask if I want to start up normally or attempt a system repair. Starting up normally just repeats the process, while the system repair just tells me it couldn't fix anything. Weirdly, it mentions the E: drive. I have a 64GB SSD as the C: drive with the OS on it, and a 1TB HDD as the E: drive for storage. The clr CMOS button on the back was lit up red; after pressing it, it restarted and went back to the cycle.
I should also mention that originally, my friend notified me that it wouldn't display anything when turned on. After powering it up, neither VGA nor HDMI showed anything, and it made none of the normal startup sounds. That is until I unplugged and replugged several cables inside, and removed the CPU fan. It started displaying stuff after that, and gave me a message about having a camera plugged in or something, and also broke the thermal paste which I'll need to replace.
Specs:
Windows 7
i5-2500K
64GB SSD (OS)
1TB HDD
8GB RAM
I'd really appreciate help figuring out what's wrong with it, since there are some games I'd like to play while I still have the chance. I guess I could take it to the mom and pop computer repair store downtown, but I'd rather not spend more money than the cost of thermal paste.
Networking question:
I've decided to choose neither. No bridge mode, no repeater mode. Instead, the new router is an Access Point.
Currently, the ADSL modem/router is functioning as the router/DHCP server, while the Asus Router is functioning as a wifi access point.
Now, follow up question: Does it matter whether I use a LAN-to-LAN connection or a LAN-to-WAN? It works both ways.
[...]
Email Asus and see if they have any recommendations of heatsinks that would fit the northbridge. Zalman have several Northbridge coolers iirc and there should be other brands as well.[...]
Could be a bad PSU.[...]
GPU overheating?[...]
GPU overheating?
Have you tried with other windows or just windows 8? Are you certain you're using a known, stable driver?
Did you remove the driver correctly?
What happens if you reformat and try running a video prior to installing GPU drivers?
Same issue?
Does it still work just fine in Linux?
No, it does not overheat. The GPU never goes past 60 degrees (celsius), only when gaming.
It used to happen with Windows 7 as well. Haven't used it since Windows 8 was released, though.
I'm always running the newest stable Nvidia driver.
I used DriverSweeper after uninstalling the driver from the control panel. Windows 8 has got a habit that annoys me: when uninstalling the video driver, it will automatically install the version that I installed before the one I uninstalled. However, I repeated the process a number of times until Windows only installed a generic video driver and managed to remove every trace of the old Nvidia drivers. Reinstalling the driver after all that trouble always ended up the same: the issue persists.
I remember loading up some .mp4 video files before installing the Nvidia driver and yeah, it didn't lock up, at least that one time I tried. However, I use my PC for games as well, and sticking with the generic video driver is not a solution for me.
I stopped using Linux in december, but it used to work fine back then. I installed the official Nvidia Linux drivers as well, and it worked wonderfully.
How to remove your nvidia drivers properly
Note, this is for windows 7, but if you spend some time searching there might be a better suited guide for windows 8.
Are you running Driver Sweeper in fail safe? this was recommended in win 7 when it was driver sweeper and not driver fusion as it's called now. (it's absolutely shit)
It really sounds driver related.
314.22 Driver
I know that this driver is ancient but it's also the one that i know that are perfectly stable.
EDIT:
Have you tried different web browsers for flash/html5 content?
Do you have any codecs installed? remove them.
I suppose flash is updated and wouldn't affect anything else, but i might as well mention it.
If you revert all the way back to generic drivers and try html5/flash/.mp4 and all works fine then i suggest trying a whole bunch of drivers. Unless the one i posted worked of course
It's gonna be a PITA but at least the problem is pinpointed.
Yeah, I feel it's driver related as well. I remember the locking up started after a Nvidia driver update I did back when I used Windows 7. It was version 27x.yz, or something. Then again, it was 2010, I don't really remember. I could track down the last driver version which worked perfectly, but those old drivers do not support Windows 8 properly, and I would probably run into some issues when play some newer games. Arrgh, this sucks =(
quick edit: Yeah, I tried pretty much every browser in the book. IE is the worst: it won't even allow me to disable Flash hardware acceleration. I didn't install a codec pack since my last reformatting, I just use VLC for media. Flash is up to date, yes.
Thermal Paste is cheap you can buy that on-line for like 8 - 10$ for a tube that will last several uses (10+ uses).
Stop error 0x7b usually indicated drivers issue with the HDD. I suggest going into the BIOS and take a look at what SATA mode you have it set on, perhaps it was change by accident and it's causing your Windows to load the wrong SATA drivers and crashing while you're booting.
Could be a bad PSU.
You should also check the SATA settings in BIOS as another user stated. Maybe you need to set it on AHCI mode instead of IDE? or vice versa?
Clearing CMOS should be done when computer is off and everything unplugged FYI.
Doing so will reset any settings that were there. If you did it while the computer was on or plugged in, there's a possibility it would be borked.
I've never managed to do it before so i wouldn't know what the symptoms would be but yea..
Try the driver i posted and report back.
Uninstall your previous driver from add/remove programs. Reboot, install the new driver with "clean install". No need to use Driver Sweeper according to guru3d anymore.
Thanks for the replies. I focused on the SSD and tried switching the cables of both hard drives but got the same result. Then I tried switching the SATA mode from IDE to AHCI. Turned out that was the problem. Don't know how it happened at my friend's house, but it's working now. I appreciate the help, now I can play my games on Steam.if I feel like it
I will get some thermal paste at some point. It works right now; the last time I saw the CPU temperature listed in the BIOS, it was 92 C. I'll definitely hold off on gaming until I get that paste.
92 is getting close to the point where you shouldn't do anything.
That was just in the BIOS settings. I just left it running all day on the desktop and it seems fine. I'll go ahead and order that paste now, though.
Anyone have a problem where their cursor is really big? I'm pretty sure it's a Catalyst issue.
If I turn on mouse shadow, the regular cursor stays normal size, but when I move it onto a text box, the cursor is really big (or any other version of the cursor).
Turning off mouse shadow, it's the large size again. If I use the magnifier tool and set it to 100% (normal), the cursor goes back to normal size even though nothing is being magnified.
I think it has something to do with resolution or something. The monitor resolution is 1360x768.
Help? It's really annoying. My bios is the latest available.
EDIT: Also, Catalyst is reporting is saying that my max resolution available is 1920x1080 at 75Hz which I don't believe is accurate. The native is 1360x768. Anyway to fix that?
Monitor
Model name............... TOSHIBA-TV
Manufacturer............. Toshiba
Plug and Play ID......... TSB1206
Serial number............ n/a
Manufacture date......... 2010, ISO week 0
Filter driver............ None
-------------------------
EDID revision............ 1.4
Input signal type........ Digital
Color bit depth.......... Undefined
Color encoding formats... RGB 4:4:4, YCrCb 4:4:4
Screen size.............. 160 x 90 mm (7.2 in)
Power management......... Not supported
Extension blocs.......... 1 (CEA-EXT)
-------------------------
DDC/CI................... n/a
Color characteristics
Default color space...... Non-sRGB
Display gamma............ 2.20
Red chromaticity......... Rx 0.645 - Ry 0.335
Green chromaticity....... Gx 0.281 - Gy 0.597
Blue chromaticity........ Bx 0.145 - By 0.065
White point (default).... Wx 0.277 - Wy 0.290
Additional descriptors... None
Timing characteristics
Range limits............. Not available
GTF standard............. Not supported
Additional descriptors... None
Preferred timing......... Yes
Native/preferred timing.. 1360x768p at 60Hz
Modeline............... "1360x768" 84.750 1360 1424 1536 1776 768 771 776 798 +hsync +vsync
Detailed timing #1....... 1366x768p at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1366x768" 85.830 1366 1436 1579 1792 768 771 774 798 +hsync +vsync
Standard timings supported
640 x 480p at 60Hz - IBM VGA
640 x 480p at 72Hz - VESA
640 x 480p at 75Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 56Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 60Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 72Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 75Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 60Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 70Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 75Hz - VESA
1280 x 720p at 60Hz - VESA STD
EIA/CEA-861 Information
Revision number.......... 3
IT underscan............. Not supported
Basic audio.............. Supported
YCbCr 4:4:4.............. Supported
YCbCr 4:2:2.............. Supported
Native formats........... 1
Detailed timing #1....... 1280x720p at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1280x720" 74.500 1280 1408 1448 1664 720 725 730 750 +hsync +vsync
Detailed timing #2....... 1920x1080i at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1920x1080" 74.250 1920 2008 2052 2200 1080 1084 1094 1124 interlace +hsync +vsync
Detailed timing #3....... 720x480p at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "720x480" 27.000 720 736 798 858 480 489 495 525 -hsync -vsync
Detailed timing #4....... 720x480p at 60Hz (4:3)
Modeline............... "720x480" 27.000 720 736 798 858 480 489 495 525 -hsync -vsync
CE video identifiers (VICs) - timing/formats supported
1280 x 720p at 60Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1) [Native]
720 x 480i at 60Hz - Doublescan (16:9, 32:27)
720 x 480p at 60Hz - EDTV (4:3, 8:9)
720 x 480p at 60Hz - EDTV (16:9, 32:27)
720 x 480i at 60Hz - Doublescan (4:3, 8:9)
1920 x 1080i at 60Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1920 x 1080p at 60Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1920 x 1080p at 24Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1920 x 1080p at 30Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
NB: NTSC refresh rate = (Hz*1000)/1001
CE audio data (formats supported)
LPCM 2-channel, 16/20/24 bit depths at 32/44/48 kHz
CE speaker allocation data
Channel configuration.... 2.0
Front left/right......... Yes
Front LFE................ No
Front center............. No
Rear left/right.......... No
Rear center.............. No
Front left/right center.. No
Rear left/right center... No
Rear LFE................. No
CE vendor specific data (VSDB)
IEEE registration number. 0x000C03
CEC physical address..... 1.0.0.0
Supports AI (ACP, ISRC).. Yes
Supports 48bpp........... No
Supports 36bpp........... No
Supports 30bpp........... No
Supports YCbCr 4:4:4..... No
Supports dual-link DVI... No
Maximum TMDS clock....... 165MHz
Report information
Date generated........... 21/02/2014
Software revision........ 2.70.0.989
Data source.............. File
Operating system......... 6.1.7601.2.Service Pack 1
Raw data
00,FF,FF,FF,FF,FF,FF,00,52,62,06,12,00,00,00,00,00,14,01,04,80,10,09,78,0A,33,31,A5,55,48,98,25,
10,47,4A,2F,CE,00,81,C0,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,1B,21,50,A0,51,00,1E,30,40,70,
35,00,54,C0,10,00,00,1E,87,21,56,AA,51,00,1E,30,46,8F,33,00,55,C0,10,00,00,1E,00,00,00,FC,00,54,
4F,53,48,49,42,41,2D,54,56,0A,20,20,00,00,00,10,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,01,FA,
02,03,1D,71,49,84,07,02,03,06,05,10,20,22,23,09,07,07,83,01,00,00,66,03,0C,00,10,00,80,1A,1D,00,
80,51,D0,1E,20,80,28,55,00,A0,5A,00,00,00,1E,01,1D,80,18,71,1C,16,20,58,2C,25,00,A0,5A,00,00,00,
9E,8C,0A,D0,8A,20,E0,2D,10,10,3E,96,00,A0,5A,00,00,00,18,8C,0A,D0,8A,20,E0,2D,10,10,3E,96,00,28,
1E,00,00,00,18,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,00,FD
Hmm.. do you have a normal monitor to test your system with? Just trying to rule out all the possibilities here.
Congratz on the R7 260X purchase by the way, you now have Xbone level GPU performance in your PC.
I am going to be honest.
Long-term usage in high-temperatures will damage your CPU. The thresh hold for CPU now are between 105 - 115 degrees C.
I have run my PC at 90 degrees for about ~6 months before the CPU died.
This is really starting to bug me... a lot.
Internet is OK in my house. Connection is always great, almost never get disconnected. I can download stuff on steam and other things at 3-4MB/S.
However, despite this... there is a strange problem all our computers have. Loading a webpage can be a tricky, random mess. Sometimes, it loads great without any problems. Sometimes it takes like 15 seconds before it opens a website.
Other times, I can't load anything at all. Very random. Chrome just instantly says "cannot find/load webpage". I could refresh fifty times and it still wouldn't work. And then it suddenly works again. And then all my tabs have this problem. I usually have to wait several minutes before I can access sites again. My internet connection is NOT down when this happens. It happens on every browser btw. I even downloaded Firefox and the problem is still there.
And this happens all the time. On wireless and LAN connections. My laptop and desktop has it. Weird thing... I could play a MP shooter or MMO without any problems at the exact time chrome isn't working. Really strange...
I've been having this problems for months but it's getting worse now. I really don't know what to do. I'm used to loading webpages instantly on my work and stuff so this is really bothering me.
Shot in the dark here, but it could be as simple as a DNS resolution issue.
Try setting up your router/gateway to use Google's DNS (8.8.8.8 or 8.8.4.4.) instead of your ISP's default one. You can also try it out on one PC first:-
1. Head to the Network and Sharing Center.
2. Change Adapter settings, then right click on the currently active connection (e.g. Local Area Connection (wired ethernet) or Wireless Network Connection (wifi)), choose properties.
3. In the properties box, click on Intenet Protocol Version 4, and click on the Properties option.
4. Click on Use the following DNS server addresses, then in the Preferred DNS server section, type in 8.8.8.8 or 8.8.4.4.
5. Click on OK, then OK again.
To make the change felt immediately, flush the previously held DNS cache:-
1. Open up an administrative command prompt (Start ---> cmd --> right click and select "Run as adminstrator")
2. Type in "ipconfig /flushdns" (without the " marks) and hit Enter/Return.
Just did this. Only way to know it works is to keep browsing the internetz I guess?
Also, could it also be related to the router? This one is about 3-4yrs old.
Yep, if the DNS was truly the issue, you'd notice the improvement right after you've done what I've outlined in my post. Especially when it comes to the browsing.
If your router was truly at fault, your internet would globally suck in every single application and use case. You'd get dropped connections during Multiplayer matches, poor download speeds from Steam and other serious connectivity issues.
The problematic web browsing bit in your post kinda narrowed it down rapidly so thanks for that.
TECH GAF:
If you can solve this i will love you forever.
My computer seems to be having some sort of power issue.
Now...I have cats. Several. One of my cats likes to stretch by putting his paws on the case of my computer. 9/10 when he does this. The usb ports on my computer stop working. Can't use the mouse. Can't use the keyboard. If simply hit the on off button, the computer will restart, but it is superrrrr slow and has problem getting past the first boot screen.
(also note when "off" the mouse/keyboard stayed powered on (the led's are lit up))
To solve this i have to hit the switch on the back of the case, power off the computer for at least 30 seconds. Then hit the switch back on.
Then everything is fine and normal...until my cat decides to stretch.
Obviously (?) this sucks when he tries to do this the middle of a dota match.
Clearly there is some sort of static electricity problem. But why? And how can i fix this?
(PSA: there is a front panel with usb/inputs for headphones and mics. The usb ports work, but the headphone input just creates a large buzz when i plug something in, i think there may have always been a power problem with these front ports?)
I did not put this computer together myself. Bought it from Digital Storm. It is probably 4 years old.
this is my case: http://www.computercity.com/rc-932-..._content=pla&gclid=CKXvkbH-57wCFe1QOgodO2cA6g
Hi guys.
So i recently got a 780ti.
I also just installed windows 8 right when i got it. So I'm unsure who's to blame for this problem I'm having.
I have my pc connected to 2 displays. I have my monitor, which is 2560x1440 and my TV which is 1920x1080.
Whenever I'm in my living room I hit windows+p a couple times and switch between the displays.
With windows 7 and my AMD video card this always worked just fine. Never had an issue..
But with windows 8 and my 780ti the res changes, but things just aren't right.
For instance, if I full screen a video on my 1080p screen after switching from 1440p it will only show a quarter of the picture. It's as if it's zoomed in too far.
If I switch displays from 1080p back to 1440p its like everything is blurry and not native res.
I've checked and the resolution settings are correct within Windows. I've tried switching them back and forth again and the problems persist.
If I restart the computer and do not switch displays everything is fine.. It's only after switching that everything gets screwy.
It's kind of driving me crazy..
Anybody have any ideas?
Image after switching displays
Image normally (after restart)
Ive messed around with scaling settings and they seem to have no effect.Maybe you have to change some settings within the Nvidia Control Panel?
Not sure what to do with this. I just built a new PC from scratch so there is no current OS installed. I start it up, and BIOS seems to be running fine. I put in the Windows 8.1 DVD and choose to boot from it. I get a windows logo on the screen and then spinning progress dots appear below it.
And that's it. I've left it on that screen for an hour with no change. Any thoughts on what the problem may be?
Mine looks slightly different, but this image should suffice.
Why do I own this?
Went through my television cab looking for a micro USB and found it. Can't remember why I would own it, the cab tends to be a default cable spot.
So it may or may not be related to it. Own X360, XB1, phones, laptops etc. but nothing is coming to mind.
It's a 3.5mm audio extension.
If you have a USB-stick try a Windows 8 USB installation.
try to change the channel. you can see that on the homepage of your router settings perhaps.Okay, I have a wireless/connectivity issue. My wifi is showing up on all my computers/phones/etc, but nothing actually happens when I try to use it - things just time out. I've reset the modem, but that hasn't done anything. This is probably the third or fourth time this has happened recently. Previously it would just start working again, but I'm getting sick of this shit. Also, in recent weeks I've had a greatly increased number of dropped wireless signals across devices. What should I be looking at? Both the modem and router are four plus years old.
Hello! I am currently in Germany and my desktop HD is dying and a ton of PC games are right around the corner, so it is time to upgrade. I have a PC store next to me where I can get most parts.
However, I do not speak German well enough where I want that as the language I will have to fight with in the BIOS or anytime I need to change a setting or whatever. The Windows key I have is English though.
So, my dumb questions is this; am I safe to buy the parts here, or should I be patient and wait the 30 days or so it would take for an online order to reach me?
The BIOS is usually in english anyway, I haven't heard that we get special BIOSes that offer only german language support. Worst case, you can choose the language, usually labeled "Sprache". If it's an actual PC store (and maybe not MediaMarkt or Saturn), there is a good chance they can tell you more details or even check and change the language the BIOS is in.
Language packs for Windows 8 (and 7) can be downloaded for free from Microsoft: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/language-packs#lptabs=win8
Thank you very much. Media Markt ended up a bust too. Are there any reputable computer stores I should be on the look out for?
It's not quite there, but Windows 7 (and onward?) has the Snipping Tool. Use the start bar's search menu to find it. It does everything you want, except automatically upload to a location or service of your choosing.Hey guys, is there a good screenshot/snapshot tool available right now? For example, right now, if I want to take a screenshot of a window to send it to my friend I need to alt-printscreen, open paint and paste it in there, save the file, upload the file to abload or other similar service and then share the link... I'd like to be able to streamline that process.
Ideal something that would let me press a button to select a zone of the screen to snap and then get an option to automatically upload it to a service.