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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

accx

Member
I did eventually find the problem; apparently the sound card (Asus Xonar DGX) was causing it. Removed the card and everything worked fine. I'm not really sure why the PC booted at all if there was a problem with it.

Likely because once it starts the install it will look for generic drivers and "activate" the card, if that makes sense. My external sound card blinks like its disconnected when rebooting but once it reaches windows it lights up just fine.
Have you tried installing the card after the windows install? There might not be anything wrong with it.
There could be IRQ conflicts (although these are uncommon now i believe), and you would need to disable the onboard card in BIOS. If windows can't boot with the Asus card in, i would disable the onboard card in bios and try again.. if it can't boot then i suppose it might be busted but you should probably check it in another computer just in case.


EDIT:

So, what's the error message? The first thing i could think of was that it was trying to cache on C: before moving the file to D:, but if you can't place any file on D:, it sounds like it could be something related to permissions?
Right-click on the D: drive, check the security tab.
You should have "Authenticated Users" "SYSTEM" "Administrators (yourcomputernamehere\Administrators)" "Users (yourcomputernamehere\Users)", and maybe others. You can then edit the different users to give them permission to save files. Other than that i don't really know what it could be since you haven't provided me with the error message.

EDIT 2 (Taking posts from last page that haven't been answered yet):

Ive messed around with scaling settings and they seem to have no effect.

Check out Multimon and see if that program can help you? Maybe you could set something up with Multimon and AutoHotKey. Like a macro that switches resolution automatically so it looks fine.

Does this happen when you touch it as well? I'm surprised that your cat isn't getting shocked by this. I had something similar happen to me when i was living in the basement at my fathers house a couple of years back. My whole case and Monitor and everything that was conductive would give me a hell of a shock. Turns out it was faulty wiring down there.
Anyway, you shouldn't use the front ports anyhow. They are usually low quality and prone to failure. Most of my front audio ports on different cases just burnt out for no reason at all, so i stopped connecting them. Front ports are fine for when you need to charge your phone or whatever but always use the back ones for everything else.
As somebody else said though, this could potentially blow out your motherboard/psu and take everything with it so i'm not sure what your solution would be. It might be faulty wiring in the building that's causing it, your cat might be a super villain or maybe the motherboard are getting shorted out because whoever built it forgot to use washers or standoffs when screwing in the motherboard in the case.
What you could do though.. hm, you could disconnect the front connectors entirely and see if your cat causes any issues. If not, might as well leave it out.


Hey tech GAF, I got two questions for you:

  1. Currently my computer is running Windows 8 Pro w/ Media Center (64-bit). It seems like it cannot upgrade to 8.1. It never installs after downloading 8.1 from the store. I is an OEM license. What could be wrong?
  2. I have been a long time fan of Kaspersky Internet Security. However, due to the poor state that 2014 was first released in (seems fine now), it has made me think about trying something new. My license for it expires soon. Got any recommendations? I know that Norton and McAfee are still crap. Has MSE finally pass a virus test? Thinking about going the Avast+Comodo combo. If it helps my habits are gaming, programming, casual web surfing, videos, and torrenting.

I have no idea why it isn't installing but you could check the event viewer? I would also call up Microsoft and let them check it out.
There's no point in using anything other than MSE. MSE + Common sense. Paying for AV these days are not necessary.
Also, you don't need a software firewall.. it does fuck all. Well, it drains resources.

Tried it, no luck :(

Also, thank you very much for helping!

I have no idea then.. That driver is suppose to be perfectly stable. Did you ever try without any driver? I can't recall.
Another thing would be to do a fresh install, maybe windows 7 if you have that available, just for the hell of it. Just install the driver i posted earlier (314.22), MSE and web browser and try it out again. If its still happening there's gotta be something hardware related.
 

BearPawB

Banned
Does this happen when you touch it as well? I'm surprised that your cat isn't getting shocked by this. I had something similar happen to me when i was living in the basement at my fathers house a couple of years back. My whole case and Monitor and everything that was conductive would give me a hell of a shock. Turns out it was faulty wiring down there.
Anyway, you shouldn't use the front ports anyhow. They are usually low quality and prone to failure. Most of my front audio ports on different cases just burnt out for no reason at all, so i stopped connecting them. Front ports are fine for when you need to charge your phone or whatever but always use the back ones for everything else.
As somebody else said though, this could potentially blow out your motherboard/psu and take everything with it so i'm not sure what your solution would be. It might be faulty wiring in the building that's causing it, your cat might be a super villain or maybe the motherboard are getting shorted out because whoever built it forgot to use washers or standoffs when screwing in the motherboard in the case.
What you could do though.. hm, you could disconnect the front connectors entirely and see if your cat causes any issues. If not, might as well leave it out.


I noticed that if i plug my phone into the front ports, it will cause this as well.
But it does not occur if i plug my phone in while the computer is up.

It does not occur if i touch things with my bare hands.

I think there must be some flaw in the ports themselves. I think you are right. That I should try to just disconnect those cords from the power supply. Sorting those cords out will be a pain. But probably worth it.
 

WanderingWind

Mecklemore Is My Favorite Wrapper
Depending on where you are, you can look out for a Conrad store. It's specialized shop for electrical components, but they also have anything computer, multimedia etc. I haven't been there in ages, but there is a good chance to get on some more technical-versed staff. Same for K&M Computer. If you want to order online, you can check Mindfactory.de. They also have forums where the staff (or some community member) maybe can tell you about the language selection. Just tell them that german isn't your native language.
For both price checks and dealer reputation you can also use Geizhals, which is one of the larger (if not largest) place for these kind of things.

Thank you again. This is fun...lol.
 

terrisus

Member
Heya all. So, I just pulled a couple of Western Digital MyBook external hard drives out of storage that I haven't used in a while - a 2TB USB 2.0 drive and a 3TB USB 3.0 drive.

Just to give fuller information, my computer is running Windows 8.1, and has USB 3.0 ports.

I connected the 2TB one to my computer and it worked fine. Was able to browse it, format it, and now have it connected to my WiiU for external storage for that.

The 3TB one though... Well, it seems to behave normally enough - when everything's plugged in and connected, a light turns on anyway (which only happens once every connection is fully recognized - that is, the light won't be turned on if it's not connected to the computer, and then turns on once it's connected to the computer). So, it recognizes that it's being connected to the computer at least...

But, it's not showing up in my drive listings. I tried all the typical things - unplugging and re-plugging everything, trying different USB ports, rebooting, etc. Tried looking for it in Computer Management as well, also not showing up in there. So, I'm not sure exactly what the deal is, or how to go about fixing it.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

accx

Member
Heya all. So, I just pulled a couple of Western Digital MyBook external hard drives out of storage that I haven't used in a while - a 2TB USB 2.0 drive and a 3TB USB 3.0 drive.

Just to give fuller information, my computer is running Windows 8.1, and has USB 3.0 ports.

I connected the 2TB one to my computer and it worked fine. Was able to browse it, format it, and now have it connected to my WiiU for external storage for that.

The 3TB one though... Well, it seems to behave normally enough - when everything's plugged in and connected, a light turns on anyway (which only happens once every connection is fully recognized - that is, the light won't be turned on if it's not connected to the computer, and then turns on once it's connected to the computer). So, it recognizes that it's being connected to the computer at least...

But, it's not showing up in my drive listings. I tried all the typical things - unplugging and re-plugging everything, trying different USB ports, rebooting, etc. Tried looking for it in Computer Management as well, also not showing up in there. So, I'm not sure exactly what the deal is, or how to go about fixing it.

Anyone have any ideas?

Can you see it in BIOS? You could try downloading a Live linux distro and see if Gparted recognizes it there.
If its out of warranty you could open the external case up and plug in the drive internally (if you're running a desktop that is).
Here's how to open it.
 

Sagitario

Member
Is there any good software to recover lost files on a SD card?
My phone card just stopped working the other day, out of nowhere. Windows asks to format it every time I insert it.
I tried a demo version of a program and it shows some files/pictures on it, but because it's a demo/(free) it doesn't recover them.

Anyone? :(
 
Windows 8.1 64-bit
SABnzbd version 0.7.16

Wonder if anyone can help with an issue Im having since upgrading to a new Laptop.
On my old Windows 7 laptop I was able to use SABnzbd fine, but since getting my new Windows 8.1 laptop I'm unable to get it to run.

Every time I try and open the program I get the below message. I have tried using different ports [even just clicking random numbers and trying that port], re-installing the software, running the troubleshooting option [tried Restart/Restart without login etc], closing down my anti-virus. Next I thought it maybe the Windows firewall, so setup Port Forwarding runs for the specific port/s and also to allow the program to be used, didn't help. Also tried turning off the Windows firewall all together.
I've closed down all other application/programs and restarted SABnzbd and still no joy.
Any help would be grateful



=================

SABnzbd needs a free tcp/ip port for its internal web server.
Port 8080 on localhost was tried , but it is not available.
Some other software uses the port or SABnzbd is already running.

Please restart SABnzbd with a different port number.

Press Startkey+R and type the line (example):
"C:\Tools\SABnzbd\SABnzbd.exe" --server localhost:8081

If you get this error message again, please try a different number.

Program did not start!
 

accx

Member
Windows 8.1 64-bit
SABnzbd version 0.7.16

Wonder if anyone can help with an issue Im having since upgrading to a new Laptop.
On my old Windows 7 laptop I was able to use SABnzbd fine, but since getting my new Windows 8.1 laptop I'm unable to get it to run.

Every time I try and open the program I get the below message. I have tried using different ports [even just clicking random numbers and trying that port], re-installing the software, running the troubleshooting option [tried Restart/Restart without login etc], closing down my anti-virus. Next I thought it maybe the Windows firewall, so setup Port Forwarding runs for the specific port/s and also to allow the program to be used, didn't help. Also tried turning off the Windows firewall all together.
I've closed down all other application/programs and restarted SABnzbd and still no joy.
Any help would be grateful



=================

SABnzbd needs a free tcp/ip port for its internal web server.
Port 8080 on localhost was tried , but it is not available.
Some other software uses the port or SABnzbd is already running.

Please restart SABnzbd with a different port number.

Press Startkey+R and type the line (example):
"C:\Tools\SABnzbd\SABnzbd.exe" --server localhost:8081

If you get this error message again, please try a different number.

Program did not start!

isn't 8080 reserved for web? Anyways i see that you've tried different ports.
Here's someone with issues
I would hit up that particular forum for getting help with your issue
 

LogicStep

Member
I got an SSD and did a clean install. I can't activate Windows 7 because it says my key is for upgrade and not a clean install. Wtf am I supposed to do now? Buy a new key? I wanted to call them to see if they can sort it out through the phone but I can't find the damn phone number anywhere. Doesn't give me the option to activate over the phone.
 

Bleepey

Member
Hi when I call people from my iPhone 4, people at the end of the line claim I am very quiet and I have to shout to be heard. How can I fix this?
 
isn't 8080 reserved for web? Anyways i see that you've tried different ports.
Here's someone with issues
I would hit up that particular forum for getting help with your issue

Thanks, will post on there to see if anyone can help.
Cheers

EDIT, just found this in the logfile incase this helps:

Python WNDPROC handler failed
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "sabnzbd\utils\systrayiconthread.pyo", line 164, in notify
File "sabnzbd\utils\systrayiconthread.pyo", line 238, in execute_menu_option
File "sabnzbd\sabtray.pyo", line 104, in browse
File "sabnzbd\panic.pyo", line 239, in launch_a_browser
TypeError: argument of type 'NoneType' is not iterable
Exception in thread HTTPServer Thread-10:
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "threading.pyo", line 488, in __bootstrap_inner
File "threading.pyo", line 448, in run
File "cherrypy\process\servers.pyo", line 75, in _start_http_thread
File "cherrypy\wsgiserver\__init__.pyo", line 1644, in start
error: (10013, 'Permission denied')

Exception in thread HTTPServer Thread-10:
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "threading.pyo", line 488, in __bootstrap_inner
File "threading.pyo", line 448, in run
File "cherrypy\process\servers.pyo", line 75, in _start_http_thread
File "cherrypy\wsgiserver\__init__.pyo", line 1644, in start
error: (10013, 'Permission denied')

Python WNDPROC handler failed
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "sabnzbd\utils\systrayiconthread.pyo", line 231, in command
File "sabnzbd\utils\systrayiconthread.pyo", line 238, in execute_menu_option
File "sabnzbd\sabtray.pyo", line 104, in browse
File "sabnzbd\panic.pyo", line 239, in launch_a_browser
TypeError: argument of type 'NoneType' is not iterable
 
Weird things. Display froze, sounds still okay. Restarted. No more signal.

1. Bought new cable. Monitor says bad cables.
2. Used old cable + TV + onboard. Ok.
3. Used new cable + TV + GPU. Nope.
4. Used both cable + TV + old GPU. Nope.
5. Tries step #2 again and SOMEHOW doesnt work anymore.

Reseated RAMs. Tried many combinations of RAM, cable, GPU, and display but got nothing.

Can't do POST diagnostic because no chassis speaker. Ripped one from an old case. No beeps, but may or may not be working itself. Cant find any local place that sells em. Online shopping will take too long to ship given location.

Gonna try to see if I can test my RAM, new cable and chassis speaker at work if they work. If they all do... does this mean my motherboard died? How would that happen? I wasnt doing anything intensive when it all started. No funny thunderstorms or power fluctuations going around. My PSU is a Seasonic too.

I could buy a new proc + mobo but I would really hate it if it doesnt work. I cant imagine it not working but who knows? I dont want to pour money on a 2 gen old mobo.

Specs:
i3 2100
ASRock H61M-VS
2x4 GSkill 4gb ddr1333
Sapphire HD5850
520w Seasonic
 

tafer

Member
OK, here is a situation:

Netbook with Windows XP, currently used as a "printer server". It's currently connected to 2 printers (an old but reliable laser and a cheap inkjet)

Since Windows XP is losing support in a few days I have been looking for an alternative that: keeps its current functionality and it's cheap.

With that said, I have been thinking in switching to Linux but I really don't feel like struggling with the sharing and driver support that may come with that OS. (Unless someone has done something similar without much trouble)

Updating to Windows 7 or 8 is almost out of the picture since I can't justify spending money (>$50) on a machine that it's used exclusively to print.

So guys, I'm listening for suggestion, ideas, or anything!

I was thinking in making a thread about it since some people may be on a similar situation or as a reminder that the support for Windows XP is about to end.
 

accx

Member

If it's not connected to the internet then why bother? If all you're doing is printing, inside a LAN, there's nothing really stopping you from just running XP if that's fine. The only thing i would be worried about when losing support would be potential vulnerabilities.

And if you can't justify getting win7/8 your only option is linux. Download a Live CD of ubuntu and try it out? Google some on the brand of your printers + ubuntu and see if people are having issues?

I believe Mint is another popular distro that's more lightweight.


It's likely that it reverted to PCI-E and are not sending signals through onboard any more. You had a fluke which made it work. Your GPU is fried. Or are you saying that GPU and "old GPU" are two different ones? If so, it's likely the motherboard yes. Get a cheap GPU/borrow a friends to check it out.
 
It's likely that it reverted to PCI-E and are not sending signals through onboard any more. You had a fluke which made it work. Your GPU is fried. Or are you saying that GPU and "old GPU" are two different ones? If so, it's likely the motherboard yes. Get a cheap GPU/borrow a friends to check it out.

Yeah my current GPU is an HD5850. My old one is a 9600GT and I'm 100% sure it works.

The weird thing is that when I tried test #2, my HD5850 was still plugged. Naturally I thought it was my GPU, so I tried my old 9600GT but it doesn't work either. After that, I don't get any display from my onboard anymore, and I don't know why that happened.

I just got at work so I can test my RAM and cables later. Can't test either of my GPU here because the PSUs are all too weak.
 

params7

Banned
OK, here is a situation:

Netbook with Windows XP, currently used as a "printer server". It's currently connected to 2 printers (an old but reliable laser and a cheap inkjet)

Since Windows XP is losing support in a few days I have been looking for an alternative that: keeps its current functionality and it's cheap.

With that said, I have been thinking in switching to Linux but I really don't feel like struggling with the sharing and driver support that may come with that OS. (Unless someone has done something similar without much trouble)

Updating to Windows 7 or 8 is almost out of the picture since I can't justify spending money (>$50) on a machine that it's used exclusively to print.

So guys, I'm listening for suggestion, ideas, or anything!

I was thinking in making a thread about it since some people may be on a similar situation or as a reminder that the support for Windows XP is about to end.


If the computer is just used as a print server, then let it stay that way even after the support ends. Unless this is for a large organization and policies dictate that no XP machines can be used. Otherwise just put an antivirus on it and a 3rd party firewall. I know companies that still use Windows 2003 as their main server even though the support ended centuries ago.
 

Sykotik

Member
Windows 8.1 64-bit
SABnzbd version 0.7.16

Wonder if anyone can help with an issue Im having since upgrading to a new Laptop.
On my old Windows 7 laptop I was able to use SABnzbd fine, but since getting my new Windows 8.1 laptop I'm unable to get it to run.

I actually dealt with this just recently, but I don't remember the exact steps I went through to fix it.

I believe I went into the SABnzbd config -> general -> changed SABnbzd host to 0.0.0.0, but I can't remember if I did anything else to get to that point.
 

genjiZERO

Member
Hey awesome. This happened to me yesterday/today:

So when I turned on my computer yesterday my laptop (mid-2009 15" Macbook pro, OSX 10.6.8) would not connect to the internet. Airport was off and would not turn on. I powered the computer off then back on again, and when I did I got the error message "no airport card installed".

I tried several things: resetting SMC and PRAM, repaired permissions - all to no avail.
Then I put my Snow Leopard disc in, reset the computer and suddenly it was working again. I did nothing else. The computer worked fine for a while. However....

First, I noticed that the computer would freeze when it goes idle. I had to reset it to get it back and running.

Second, I tried to run a system update. But when I did it froze early on. I stopped the update, but when I did I discovered I was not connected to the internet anymore. I was tired to I left it for this morning.

Third, I reset the computer again this morning, and I was back to the original error message for Airport. Again, the only thing that worked was putting the disc in and rebooting the computer.

Fourth, it just froze on me while I was using it.

Questions: Is there something wrong at the OS level? Do you think reinstalling the OS will help? I've never had to do that on this computer - what will I have to back up? Does it sound like it could be the HDD dying?

Background info: So this all started yesterday. However, that previous night I had left the computer in my bookbag in my car overnight. It wasn't abnormally humid, but the temp did go down to freezing.

Thanks in advance.
 

GraveHorizon

poop meter feature creep
Finally applied the thermal paste to my CPU. I didn't like the blob I put down the first time and the heatsink wasn't going on easy, so I scraped it off and tried again. Took me at least 3 minutes to get the clamp post thingies to lock in right, and finally it was solid. Started it up and used the internet for a minute, then restarted and got into the BIOS. It still said 92 degrees C, but maybe it's because I just applied the paste and it hasn't started working yet?
 

S.W.

Member
Hello Gafs,

The new PC I built starts to have frequent and predictable crashes like nvlddmkm.sys shutter errors or black screen or restart without warning. After countless of resets, refreshing windows 8.1, reinstalling different versions of drivers cleanly, and AB testing, I've ruled out causes like memory or driver versions. But now all I got is a big pile of tangled suspects that I have no idea how to determine the true cause.

The symptom is simple: if a software touches 3D acceleration, like a modern browser or explorer.exe opens a new window, I WILL get a chain of nvlddmkm crashes within the next 10 sec or so predictably, and then I'll get black screen or auto reboot, but never BSOD, interestingly. The video card I use is a gigabyte gtx670oc from half a year ago. The rig is totally new and standard recommendation from PC gaf: Intel 4770k, Asus Maximus gene, corsair ddr3-1600 2x8gb, cooler master v700 psu.

Problem during a-b testing: I used an old Eco-model gt9800 to test if the problem is a faulty gtx670. It reduces the crash chance by a lot, but it still happened once or twice during whole day of testing. If I switch back to gtx670 I can reproduce the crash for sure, but if I go back to gt9800, it will behave well for awhile, but essentially the driver failure will return, usually after a period of usage.

What I think: maybe it's a faulty power supply that faints when pcie asks for more power (gt9800 Eco doesn't need to plug in 6pins for psu, but gtx670 needs 6+8 pins) . Thus the culprit might be either MB or psu.

Question: how do I test these two? I don't have any available parts to A-B test them.

Halp plz :(
Thanks.
 

accx

Member
Yeah my current GPU is an HD5850. My old one is a 9600GT and I'm 100% sure it works.

The weird thing is that when I tried test #2, my HD5850 was still plugged. Naturally I thought it was my GPU, so I tried my old 9600GT but it doesn't work either. After that, I don't get any display from my onboard anymore, and I don't know why that happened.

I just got at work so I can test my RAM and cables later. Can't test either of my GPU here because the PSUs are all too weak.

Did you try clearing CMOS? Try listening and see if the hard drive spins up, i.e goes into windows after awhile.
I'd still try the 5850 in another computer before completely ruling it out. If it doesn't work then you know it's the motherboard.

Sounds hardware related. Might be a something small like the drive or the airport card, might be a sign of everything going to shit. You should never ever leave your computer out in the cold like that.
There's plenty of guides out there for re-installing if you want to do try that.
You'll only need to back up what's important to you. Bookmarks, downloads, images and so on. Try searching for "osx clean install".


What kind of heatsink do you have? 92 C in BIOS is ridiculous. Can you go into BIOS from cold boot (turn it off for 20 minutes and then straight into BIOS) and see if it's still at 92C? It might be a busted temperature reader.
What CPU did you have again?
You could try opening the case and apply some pressure on the heatsink to see if the temperature drops. It might not be getting the right connection.
Can you post a picture of Hwmonitor just for the sake of it?


Uninstall the Nvidia driver and install the one i posted earlier (314.22). See if you're still experiencing it. You can head over to the gaming side for the "I need a New PC.." and ask them for the current stable driver for win 8.1. The one i posted earlier is really old but it works.
The PSU should handle it so that's not the issue.
You can run Memtest86+ (Create a bootable USB, change boot order and reboot into DOS) for 8+ hours to check RAM.
Reseat everything just for the hell of it.
Are you running any overclock?
 

Omni

Member
Is there a way to force mobile versions of websites in Internet Explorer on Surface RT? Much prefer to browse that way on GAF while using the touchpad
 

Omni

Member

I swear that I did google it first! Just didn't use the right words. I thought the IE on tablets was different to the normal version so my search didn't help at all. haha

Whatever the case, unfortunately the link only provides a temporary solution. And you can't get any other browser on RT, IIRC. So it probably can't be done. Oh well, thanks anyway mate
 

accx

Member
I swear that I did google it first! Just didn't use the right words. I thought the IE on tablets was different to the normal version so my search didn't help at all. haha

Whatever the case, unfortunately the link only provides a temporary solution. And you can't get any other browser on RT, IIRC. So it probably can't be done. Oh well, thanks anyway mate

I think you're SOL unfortunately. You should be able to change the user agent from within IE, but i have no idea if it will stick.
Here's how you change it to always mobile.
The bottom post will change it to always desktop as you can see but you should be able to use this:
http://useragentstring.com/IE%20Mobile9.0_id_18373.php
To get the correct user string.. I think.
You should be able to find something when searching for "change user agent string for surface RT" or something similar.

You could always send a PM to a mod requesting the feature to be implemented in the user preferences here on the site. It shouldn't be hard.
 

tafer

Member
If it's not connected to the internet then why bother? If all you're doing is printing, inside a LAN, there's nothing really stopping you from just running XP if that's fine. The only thing i would be worried about when losing support would be potential vulnerabilities.

And if you can't justify getting win7/8 your only option is linux. Download a Live CD of ubuntu and try it out? Google some on the brand of your printers + ubuntu and see if people are having issues?

I believe Mint is another popular distro that's more lightweight.

If the computer is just used as a print server, then let it stay that way even after the support ends. Unless this is for a large organization and policies dictate that no XP machines can be used. Otherwise just put an antivirus on it and a 3rd party firewall. I know companies that still use Windows 2003 as their main server even though the support ended centuries ago.

This may sound dumb, but I didn't consider leaving it like that. params7 makes a good point, using a 3rd party anti virus will probably help a lot.

In any case, I'm expecting a lot of 0 day exploits to show up the day the support ends, so I think it will be a good idea to keep it offline while anti virus catch up. (I usually only turn it on to print something, so it's kinda normal)
 

accx

Member
This may sound dumb, but I didn't consider leaving it like that. params7 makes a good point, using a 3rd party anti virus will probably help a lot.

In any case, I'm expecting a lot of 0 day exploits to show up the day the support ends, so I think it will be a good idea to keep it offline while anti virus catch up. (I usually only turn it on to print something, so it's kinda normal)

You could leave it always offline and save the documents on your main computer and print it like that?
Hm.. On second thought i don't even think you need to save documents.. If you assign a internal ip-address (192.168.x.x) to it, then it would effectively be blocking internet access and you should be able to configure so that you can point your main computer to it and set up printing.
If you're using a router that's already assigning LAN-ips, you should be able to configure your router to block all ports and internet access except the one you need for printing.
This would probably be the safest way to go. A third-party AV, or even MSE (it works for winxp, right?) can be nice to add just for peace of mind.
 

S.W.

Member
Uninstall the Nvidia driver and install the one i posted earlier (314.22). See if you're still experiencing it. You can head over to the gaming side for the "I need a New PC.." and ask them for the current stable driver for win 8.1. The one i posted earlier is really old but it works.
The PSU should handle it so that's not the issue.
You can run Memtest86+ (Create a bootable USB, change boot order and reboot into DOS) for 8+ hours to check RAM.
Reseat everything just for the hell of it.
Are you running any overclock?

I tried about 6 different nv drivers including 314.22, they all have similar crash behavior in this case that why I thought it's a hardware issue. That only overclock I have is Gigabyte GTX670oc which came with factory overclock. Will do the memtest86+ check today.
 
I'm having trouble configuring the screen resolution for Win 8.1.

The default and only option under
Control Panel -> Appearance and Personalization -> Display -> Screen Resolution

is Sceptre X24WG even though I'm using Asus V228h.

There isn't a 1920 x 1080 option for resolution, but there's 1920 x 1200, 1600x 1200, 1280 x 1024, 1024 x 768.

Help!

Edit: Nvm, desktop magically adjusted to this monitor.
 

accx

Member
I tried about 6 different nv drivers including 314.22, they all have similar crash behavior in this case that why I thought it's a hardware issue. That only overclock I have is Gigabyte GTX670oc which came with factory overclock. Will do the memtest86+ check today.

Oh yeah, you could try and update BIOS. There's several stability fixes available.

http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=MAXIMUS%20V%20GENE&os=30

Download the top one.
Then download the "Bupdater Utility V1.30" located in BIOS utilities.

Create a bootable USB Stick

Then unzip bupdater utility to X:\Bios (where X: is your usb drive).
Unzip the BIOS file to the same folder. Rename it to 1903.cap just for ease of access.

Reboot to the USB Drive. Navigate to the bios folder by typing "cd bios"

Run bupdater.exe /ooldfile.cap. Wait for it to backup your old bios.
When finished, run bupdater.exe /i1903.cap. Wait for it to finish. DO NOT TURN OFF YOUR COMPUTER until it's done.
Video of the procedure (with amazing music).
 

Ravijn

Member
Hopefully someone here can help me with my issue.

Any time I try to play a video from either HBO Go or Amazon Prime my screen goes all fuzzy(See pic). I've tried re-installing Microsoft Silverlight, Flash Player, disabling/enabling hardware acceleration, Chrome and Internet Explorer, disabled all extensions for both browsers, new Nvidia drivers, etc and nothing works.

My video card is a GTX 680 connected to a Viewsonic 120hz monitor using a dual link DVI cable.

Any suggestions on how to fix this problem? See edit below.



Edit - I tried something else.. I changed my monitor refresh rate to 60hz from 120hz and now the player works. Any idea why this is causing an issue?
 

Dash Kappei

Not actually that important
Guys, I fucked up and I can't seem to be able to properly boot in Windows (7 Ultimate 64bit) anymore.

Problem:

•When I try to boot my PC it it keeps giving me some fucking error message before booting:
" disk read error occurred; Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart" and I can't seem to be able to fix it.
Disk shows up when in bios and I can select it as bootable and stuff.


What probably (?) happened:

• my HTPC was in sleep state and I straight up unplugged a USB stick while thinking the system was completely off and then when I woke the PC up my other external HDDs weren't showing up their correct names (instead they were some kind of a weird string of letters/numbers) and couldn't be "safely unplugged" (unplug USB devices, right click on the green arrow icon etc.). After I shut down the PC, I couldn't restart it anymore (disk error etc...).

Help?

I'm gonna cry if I have to reinstall everything that wasvon my 1TB HDD with all my HTPC "tricks" (full non-downsampled bitstreaming via analog audio outs for example) which took me hours upon hours to properly set-up, lost all my lossless FLAC/DTSHD MA music, have to buy a new HDD *AND* can't play my copy of South Park.
 
Did you try clearing CMOS? Try listening and see if the hard drive spins up, i.e goes into windows after awhile.
I'd still try the 5850 in another computer before completely ruling it out. If it doesn't work then you know it's the motherboard.
Fixed it last night. It was just my RAM being BS again. I don't know why I had to test my RAM on my work PC just to get it working again, even though I reseated it several times at home.

I think every single PC I've built always gave me similar trouble with RAM, no matter what brand (or motherboard).
 

kennah

Member
Hopefully someone here can help me with my issue.

Any time I try to play a video from either HBO Go or Amazon Prime my screen goes all fuzzy(See pic). I've tried re-installing Microsoft Silverlight, Flash Player, disabling/enabling hardware acceleration, Chrome and Internet Explorer, disabled all extensions for both browsers, new Nvidia drivers, etc and nothing works.

My video card is a GTX 680 connected to a Viewsonic 120hz monitor using a dual link DVI cable.

Any suggestions on how to fix this problem? See edit below.



Edit - I tried something else.. I changed my monitor refresh rate to 60hz from 120hz and now the player works. Any idea why this is causing an issue?

You're triggering HDCP copy protection. 120Hz isn't an authorized frequency it seems :)
 

S.W.

Member
Oh yeah, you could try and update BIOS. There's several stability fixes available.

http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=MAXIMUS%20V%20GENE&os=30

Download the top one.
Then download the "Bupdater Utility V1.30" located in BIOS utilities.

Create a bootable USB Stick

Then unzip bupdater utility to X:\Bios (where X: is your usb drive).
Unzip the BIOS file to the same folder. Rename it to 1903.cap just for ease of access.

Reboot to the USB Drive. Navigate to the bios folder by typing "cd bios"

Run bupdater.exe /ooldfile.cap. Wait for it to backup your old bios.
When finished, run bupdater.exe /i1903.cap. Wait for it to finish. DO NOT TURN OFF YOUR COMPUTER until it's done.
Video of the procedure (with amazing music).

I let memtest86+ ran for 10 hours when I off to work today and came back to a crashed computer, no idea where did it end, the screen was black. Is it a memory issue?

Swapped out the power supply with a brand new one and problem remains.

I'll update the bios tonight.


Edit:
Bupdater wouldn't let me flash or backup bios rom because of security verification failure.
Oh Asus how I missed you.

Edit 2:
I think it's mainly caused by my GTX670. 314.22 driver has the highest stability but still can't save the card from crashing.
I used 3DMark06 to do some testing and GT9800 passed all the demos, with one stick or both sticks of memory, yet GTX670 crash on the third demo in (after the software draw test, before snowmobile test I think.) What I don't get is, how come even by swapping to the other card GT9800, my computer still can crash in the similiar fashion once every often. Maybe there are more than one faulty part?

Edit 3:
9800GT crashed when I had gpu-z open, core temperature was
231c
wtf
 

accx

Member
Check BIOS and see if the boot order are correct. Disconnect any external drives/usb sticks.
You might wanna try and do a windows repair/system restore.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/3413-repair-install.html


RAM and GPU are the most common failures. RAM especially can give you all kinds of crazy errors which is a PITA to diagnose, even more so when doing it on a forum :p
Glad you worked it out!



Hm, my tutorial wasn't very good it seems. It looks like you can use the Ezflash feature.

Format USB Stick to FAT32.
Unzip the BIOS file onto the stick, do not rename it like i told you before.
Reboot and go into BIOS, use EzFlash. It's located under "Advanced Mode" then "Tool".
Another video

If you do not experience any stability increase after this, it's likely your RAM since memtest crashed.. Memtest can give false readings if BIOS is running an unstable version though so be sure to update it.
What you could do after you've updated the bios but are still having stability issues, is run memtest again when you're home for about an hour or so and see if it spits out any errors. Just watch a movie or something in the meantime.
 
My, Windows 8.1 Pro, desktop shuts itself down if left on for an hour..

How do I keep itself from shutting itself? There wasn't an error message when I turned it back on.

Or was it automatically installing updates, then shutting down?

Or was my desktop set to sleep within 30 minutes..
 

accx

Member
My, Windows 8.1 Pro, desktop shuts itself down if left on for an hour..

How do I keep itself from shutting itself? There wasn't an error message when I turned it back on.

Or was it automatically installing updates, then shutting down?

Or was my desktop set to sleep within 30 minutes..

Search for "Windows Update" and see if it's set to turn off/reboot.
Search for "Power Options" to configure your settings for sleep and so on.

To search, iirc in windows 8.1, hit Windows key and just start typing.
 

Dash Kappei

Not actually that important
original post

Check BIOS and see if the boot order are correct. Disconnect any external drives/usb sticks.
You might wanna try and do a windows repair/system restore.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/3413-repair-install.html

As I've said, BIOS shows everything as correct (recognize HDD and can make it bootable, boot order...).
Can't access repair/system restore (which I had turned on with multiple restore points on my system) because the failure occurs before I can trigger that. Usually system restore/repair appears as a choice after a BSOD restart together with safe-mode and so on but in this case I only get the disk error and the system hangs, prompting me to restart the system via ctrl+alt+del..
Is there a way to make system restore/repair aid show up in this case?
 

accx

Member
original post



As I've said, BIOS shows everything as correct (recognize HDD and can make it bootable, boot order...).
Can't access repair/system restore (which I had turned on with multiple restore points on my system) because the failure occurs before I can trigger that. Usually system restore/repair appears as a choice after a BSOD restart together with safe-mode and so on but in this case I only get the disk error and the system hangs, prompting me to restart the system via ctrl+alt+del..
Is there a way to make system restore/repair aid show up in this case?

You'll need to use a bootable win 7 disk in order to access the different options because you can't get into windows.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/668-system-recovery-options.html
Check "Option Two".

Or you could try hitting F8 before windows tries to boot and see if you get those options. I'm assuming it won't work but you could always try. Hit F8 til you get the menu or the error.

What brand is the hard drive? You might wanna get something like UBCD and try out diagnostics for your drive. If it did indeed mess up just because of that i'd wager that the drive is faulty.
Run the appropriate extended test for your drive.
Check here
You should be able to find a suitable tool for your harddrive brand. It's under HDD/Diagnostics.

Have you tried messing with the SATA settings in BIOS? like change from IDE/SATA Mode to AHCI, or vice versa?

You could do a memtest to rule out that as well.
 

S.W.

Member
If you do not experience any stability increase after this, it's likely your RAM since memtest crashed.. Memtest can give false readings if BIOS is running an unstable version though so be sure to update it.
What you could do after you've updated the bios but are still having stability issues, is run memtest again when you're home for about an hour or so and see if it spits out any errors. Just watch a movie or something in the meantime.

The instability continues after bios update.
I let memtest ran 5 tests this morning, all passed with 0 errors.
I think I can narrow down the problem and send my GTX 670 to RMA first....or purchase a new one. (?)
 

Megasoum

Banned
Guys I have the weirdest issue I have ever seen.

Every time I play South Park: Stick of truth, the moment I get the first quest ingame my front panel USB ports die... The only way to restore them is to reboot my PC.

I use a SYBA PCI-E to USB3 card with an infoZone front panel USB3 on Windows 8.

I never had any issues with those ports normally. Anybody ever seen that issue in the past? Heck, I work in QA and I've never seen that. Whhaaattt thheeeee fuuuccckkkk.

EDIT: Ok so turns out it doesn't have anything to do with the game, it happens in all games. It's just that South Park is the first game I play with the game pad since I formatedto Win8 and changed my PSU...so I guess it could be any of those things?

I played around a bit in different games, looks like the controller works fine until I get to a point where it would vibrate...then it just dies.
 
Help me, GAF. You're my only hope.

I recently opened up my PC to dust it out, and when put the side panel back on, I found my computer was running really hot. Specifically, the Northbridge.

I opened it back up and saw that one of the two black plastic pins holding the heatsink in place was on the bottom of the case. It broke off. After calling every PC repair place in my crappy little town, I find out that the pin (apparently) can't be replaced, and I need to just buy a new heatsink for the motherboard. However, I don't have any clue what fits. I've searched all over and can't seem to find any information; most of the forum posts I've seen on various forums just talk about the board running hot or custom solutions that won't work for me.

Any thoughts?

This is my motherboard: http://www.ascendtech.us/asus-61-mib852-01-cg5290-motherboard_i_mbasu61mib852cg.aspx

Quoting myself to see if anyone has additional information.

I was unable to replace my northbridge heatsink because it uses a different size. After talking to ASUS customer support, the tech suggested changing out the thermal paste on the northbridge and using zip-ties as replacement pins. I did that, but it didn't end up working, and my NB still was running extremely hot before it eventually bluescreened.

After a bit of legwork, I found a new replacement motherboard. I popped it in, plugged everything in like normal, but my northbridge is still running amazingly hot. I wasn't under load; I just had chrome running in one tab and a messenger program going, and before I left it was at 79c.

Can anyone tell me why it would be idling that hot? It doesn't make sense.
 

Megasoum

Banned
Guys I have the weirdest issue I have ever seen.

Every time I play South Park: Stick of truth, the moment I get the first quest ingame my front panel USB ports die... The only way to restore them is to reboot my PC.

I use a SYBA PCI-E to USB3 card with an infoZone front panel USB3 on Windows 8.

I never had any issues with those ports normally. Anybody ever seen that issue in the past? Heck, I work in QA and I've never seen that. Whhaaattt thheeeee fuuuccckkkk.

EDIT: Ok so turns out it doesn't have anything to do with the game, it happens in all games. It's just that South Park is the first game I play with the game pad since I formatedto Win8 and changed my PSU...so I guess it could be any of those things?

I played around a bit in different games, looks like the controller works fine until I get to a point where it would vibrate...then it just dies.

Quoting for new page since I found out new info...anybody has any ideas?

Edit: Ok, nvm, turns out I was missing one of the three (!!!) drivers from the Syba website... Everything is working fine now.
 

accx

Member
The instability continues after bios update.
I let memtest ran 5 tests this morning, all passed with 0 errors.
I think I can narrow down the problem and send my GTX 670 to RMA first....or purchase a new one. (?)

Hm, okay.. Have you reseated everything, just to make sure nothing is loose?
Since you had the issue with a 9800GT its unlikely that the gtx670 is at fault.
Is there any way you can get a hold of windows 7? You could just install it, the 314.22 driver and run 3dmark just to see if you get the same issues.

Northbridges tend to run somewhat hot though. You could try increasing your cooling in your case with additional fans. Google some on your mobo and see what other users have to say about their northbridge temperature. It basically comes down to ambient temp and cooling in your case.
"mobo name northbridge temp" would prolly give you the right answers.
 

malfcn

Member
Pretty sure I need a new laptop. Recommendations on something powerful, big but not bank breaking. I don't game on it, but want the usual photoshop and editing powerhouse.

UX9gBYG.jpg
 
Ok, I have a new case for TechGAF - if anyone can help with this, that'd be great.

I work for a telecoms company in London - we've got a couple of huge LED TV's on the wall with a live show of our current network status -

What we need is a an application that will flip through the various monitoring applications for us - effectively ALT-TABing but automatically.. Extensive google searching has not assisted me...can anyone be of any help?
 
How do I take out a Cpu from a Motherboard?

I'm putting it on another motherboard.


Nvm, I'm wondering if I have to reinstall my Windows software.
 
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