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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

So I have a printer connected via USB to an ancient PC running Windows XP. I've also got a laptop running Windows 8.1 that I'd like to be able to print from over the network. Possible? I've got a workgroup set up on the pc, but if I'm gathering correctly, Windows 8 does things differently.
 

luoapp

Member
Ok, I have a new case for TechGAF - if anyone can help with this, that'd be great.

I work for a telecoms company in London - we've got a couple of huge LED TV's on the wall with a live show of our current network status -

What we need is a an application that will flip through the various monitoring applications for us - effectively ALT-TABing but automatically.. Extensive google searching has not assisted me...can anyone be of any help?

There are autotab program does just that, just google automatic switch window.

So I have a printer connected via USB to an ancient PC running Windows XP. I've also got a laptop running Windows 8.1 that I'd like to be able to print from over the network. Possible? I've got a workgroup set up on the pc, but if I'm gathering correctly, Windows 8 does things differently.

print to file on w8 and teamview and print on xp
 

DryvBy

Member
I just "upgraded" to Windows 8.1. Is there a way to make Windows copy files faster? I was copying a few thousand files (small kb files) for my Plex server from my local drive (C: to C:). It's taking forever because Windows needs to first discover them and calculate transfer rates.
 

Hawkian

The Cryptarch's Bane
Hey guys, is there a good screenshot/snapshot tool available right now? For example, right now, if I want to take a screenshot of a window to send it to my friend I need to alt-printscreen, open paint and paste it in there, save the file, upload the file to abload or other similar service and then share the link... I'd like to be able to streamline that process.

Ideal something that would let me press a button to select a zone of the screen to snap and then get an option to automatically upload it to a service.
PicPick is exactly what you are looking for.
 

scogoth

Member
I just "upgraded" to Windows 8.1. Is there a way to make Windows copy files faster? I was copying a few thousand files (small kb files) for my Plex server from my local drive (C: to C:). It's taking forever because Windows needs to first discover them and calculate transfer rates.

You can use the robocopy command which is much more robust then regular copying. It can restart if it fails which comes in handy if the copying is interrupted
 

poodpick

Member
Does anyone know how to get 24hz or 23hz to work correctly on nvidia cards in windows 8? If I set my hdtv to either refresh rate it displays an underscanned pictured and the only way to fix it is to pick some wierd resized resolution which I don't want.

GTX 770
4770k
windows 8
 

luoapp

Member
I just "upgraded" to Windows 8.1. Is there a way to make Windows copy files faster? I was copying a few thousand files (small kb files) for my Plex server from my local drive (C: to C:). It's taking forever because Windows needs to first discover them and calculate transfer rates.

zip them first into a big file first.
 

scogoth

Member
Does anyone know how to get 24hz or 23hz to work correctly on nvidia cards in windows 8? If I set my hdtv to either refresh rate it displays an underscanned pictured and the only way to fix it is to pick some wierd resized resolution which I don't want.

GTX 770
4770k
windows 8

Why don't you output it at the native resolution of your HDTV? Nvidia will only show refresh rates reported by the EDID of the display. If you panel is 60Hz or supports 48Hz Nvidia will handle the pulldown or frame repeating for you. You can create custom resolutions through nvidia control panel but if you can set it to 48Hz or 120Hz then just let Nvidia handle the frame repeating.
 

poodpick

Member
Why don't you output it at the native resolution of your HDTV? Nvidia will only show refresh rates reported by the EDID of the display. If you panel is 60Hz or supports 48Hz Nvidia will handle the pulldown or frame repeating for you. You can create custom resolutions through nvidia control panel but if you can set it to 48Hz or 120Hz then just let Nvidia handle the frame repeating.

I get frame judder when I try to watch 23hz content through mpchc and madvr.
 

scogoth

Member

DryvBy

Member
More Windows 8.1 issues for me. So does anyone else use Xsplit for streaming? I've tried everything and cannot get the program to even load. This is a deal-breaker for me if I can't use Xsplit.
 
Hey guys, weird issue. I sent a power supply and old graphics card to a friend in Dallas. He replaced his supply and card, but now, the PC will not boot. It starts to boot, then it dies after 1 - 2 seconds. Returning to the old PSU, it does the same thing. I had him unplug everything but RAM. It does the same thing.

I am very concerned he damaged the motherboard during the upgrade. He said he thought he bent a capacitor. Maybe offset it by 30 degrees. That shouldnt cause a short...

It sounds like something is shorting out, but he cant find anything. Wish I could be there. In the mean time, I am stuck troubleshooting over Skype.
 

luoapp

Member
Hey guys, weird issue. I sent a power supply and old graphics card to a friend in Dallas. He replaced his supply and card, but now, the PC will not boot. It starts to boot, then it dies after 1 - 2 seconds. Returning to the old PSU, it does the same thing. I had him unplug everything but RAM. It does the same thing.

I am very concerned he damaged the motherboard during the upgrade. He said he thought he bent a capacitor. Maybe offset it by 30 degrees. That shouldnt cause a short...

It sounds like something is shorting out, but he cant find anything. Wish I could be there. In the mean time, I am stuck troubleshooting over Skype.

Why not reseat the ram and try once more?
 

luoapp

Member
Luoapp, We have tried that. I really dont understand by it gave a POST beep once. Makes no sense. I am having him let it sit for a few minutes. I read somewhere where the CMOS battery needs charge...

That was a shot in the dark. Not much you can do, I am afraid. How many ram sticks does he have? Change stick pairing, probably?
 

xaosslug

Member
hello, techGAF! I have a Lenovo Ultrabook. I was getting an intermittent usbhub.sys BSOD for the past couple of days. I read that it might be because my bios wasn't up to date, so I went to Lenovo's driver & downlopad site and proceeded to update my bios... BOOM! Now, it won't boot up. I read that it could be because the hard drive mode might have been changed during the bios update? It was on RAID mode, and stuck on this BSOD:

KfAl3ym.jpg

on AHCI mode I get this BSOD:


i can't restart widows or repair or get into safe mode. ;__;
 

pestul

Member
What's the exact model of your machine? There may be an emergency bios recovery option using a usb thumbdrive for your model. Strange though, as from the sound of it you can enter the BIOS. Maybe go into it and reset to default settings. Of course after doing so, make sure AHCI is still enabled for the drive.
 

pestul

Member
If you can get to the bios/boot menu, you should be able to easily find the BIOS update in bootable form for your model. Again, given you said it was an ultrabook it probably doesn't have an optical drive (guessing), there should be a create a usb thumbstick option.

Having said that, the fact that the BSOD's started happening before the complete mess you're in now, there may actually be something failing with a memory stick/bank or other hardware. If you have more than one mem stick in the machine, try taking one out at a time and test booting. If you find one working and another not, try swapping the good one into the other slot and see if the slot has died and not the stick. This all depends on your model of course and what configuration is present.

EDIT: After reading around a wee bit, I'm starting to wonder if your machine let you flash the wrong BIOS for the model. Typically BIOS flashing utilities are smart enough to know this, but I've seen the odd one let the wrong BIOS slip through. Probably a case where the model numbers are very close but just a little different. I dunno, I guess we'll need a little more information from you there.
 

xaosslug

Member
If you can get to the bios/boot menu, you should be able to easily find the BIOS update in bootable form for your model. Again, given you said it was an ultrabook it probably doesn't have an optical drive (guessing), there should be a create a usb thumbstick option.

Having said that, the fact that the BSOD's started happening before the complete mess you're in now, there may actually be something failing with a memory stick/bank or other hardware. If you have more than one mem stick in the machine, try taking one out at a time and test booting. If you find one working and another not, try swapping the good one into the other slot and see if the slot has died and not the stick. This all depends on your model of course and what configuration is present.

EDIT: After reading around a wee bit, I'm starting to wonder if your machine let you flash the wrong BIOS for the model. Typically BIOS flashing utilities are smart enough to know this, but I've seen the odd one let the wrong BIOS slip through. Probably a case where the model numbers are very close but just a little different. I dunno, I guess we'll need a little more information from you there.

yeah, no optical drive. I have no idea the exact model... all I know is it's a u310 w/o touch screen.

here are pics of the bios menu:


does this help at all? Thanks!
 
Hello,

hoping this is a simple one.

I recently installed Spotflux and since then a folder has appeared in my main Library called:

.swt
with a folder in it called lib, then another called win32 and then x86 with two .DLL's in.

It appears to be JAVA based, but I'd just like to know if its been installed because of Spotflux, as I have no idea what else could have installed it.

Does anyone else have this folder and can shed any light on what it is?
 

NotBacon

Member
So my laptop screen is black and but I can still use it through hdmi on a monitor (what I do at work). Randomly a few weeks ago I just tried to turn it on without the monitor and the screen just stayed black. It kinda lights up(backlight?) but nothing displays at all.

-Windows 'displays' settings in control panel only detects the monitor. (Sometimes I click 'detect' and 1|2 shows up on the monitor, so maybe it thinks it's both?)

-Tried tweaking from intel graphics control panel, nada

-Hold power for 2 min. with battery out, nada

-Ctrl-P to switch displays, or whatever that shortcut is, nada
 
Okay. Have I got a virus?
This is what happens. When I go to Youtube first the videos crash and I get a page saying my Flashplayer is out of date and need updating. This is bollocks as I get the same page on my iPad and iPhone. I did actually download the file it wanted me to but I checked it with Kaspersky and it was rotten so it was destroyed. Also I can't go to Google home page or Facebook but most other sites work. Wireless works but is very slow. However, this ultimately led to an Unidentified Netork error on my PC. It's wired to my router but I could not access it using 192.168.1.1
I fixed the problem by resetting the router to factory default and setting it up again.

Now on my PC I have Kaspersky Internet and it's up-to-date. I thought maybe my browser was infected. Done every type of scan and found nothing. Downloaded Malwarebytes and it found some stuff and destroyed them. All was well. However it happened again. This time when I turned on my PC it already had the Unidentified Network error. Again, re-set router and okay.

Now, I'm not sure but I have a PC upstairs that has no anti-virus and that may have been on first before my downstairs PC (can't be sure) was turned on. It's connected wirelessly. Could that be responsible?

Any thoughts?
 
Added a Cooler Master 212 Evo heatsink. Using a i7-4770K (no overclocking) I had a stress test running for about half an hour before my temps got up to 95C. Using Prime95 Torture Test - Blend for the stress test and CPUID HWmonitor to monitor the temps.

Kind of concerned. My understanding is that greater than 70C for extended periods of time is harmful. I'd like to OC but if I can't even keep my temps below 90C at full non OC load for any length of time that makes me a bit worried.

Here are the temps for cores 0, 1, 2, and 3. And the package temps.

95C 93C 94C8 5C

I presently have two fans mounted on the 212 push/pull. Corsair 200R case with 2x intakes in front, 1x intake on side, 1x intake on bottom, 1x exhaust in back. I have these fans. in addition to the 2 stock which came with the case.

What should I do?

Here's pics of what's going on. Is it possible someone could help me with this? :(


First image is at idle. Second is after roughly 20 minutes of a blend test.

I've already tried reseating the heatsink about 3 times. Each time getting a little better at applying the thermal paste. I've reconfigured the placement of fans inside my case as well. Is it possible I have a faulty product or am I doing something wrong?
 

potam

Banned
Ugh...any ideas on this one? So IE was blocking an activex plugin from installing. I changed the security settings and try again. Now it's showing the Install button, but clicking it does nothing. It just closes the window and brings it back again.

So it's not blocking it exactly, it's just not installing.
 

Ashhong

Member
You're already using the latest supported 12.6 Legacy driver for the 4xxx series; If compatibility is important with you, stick with it, for it is the latest. I'm sticking with the older 11.11a performance release as i've tested the 12 series of drivers and found them to have on average 5 - 10% lower FPS for games and benchmarks for my card. And when you're on the edge with a really low end card like mine, every bit counts.

Also, install this cap from AMD for your card if you haven't already, it's not just for Crossfire solutions but for us single card users as well. It improves performance with the newest games and 3d applications; install it and reboot your computer after, it's application is automatic.

AMD 12.11 Cap 2

Hey guys I had to dig this post up because I just installed a new SSD, and need help because I can't seem to find this download anywhere now. It links to AMD's site and just gives an error :(
 
Hey guys I had to dig this post up because I just installed a new SSD, and need help because I can't seem to find this download anywhere now. It links to AMD's site and just gives an error :(

What do you need Ash, AMD's 11.11a drivers or 12.11 Cap 2?

Anyway, here're some alternate links for both:-

AMD 11.11a drivers from Softpedia


AMD 12.11 Cap 2 (uploaded personally by me, since Softpedia doesn't have a working link.)

I've downloaded and verified both to be virus-free and working perfectly.
 

Mareg

Member
Hello GAF,

I bought an Acer laptop last week. It came preloaded with the OS and a package of drivers for all the parts. It also sported the live update app from ACER. Suposedly it keeps the drivers up to date. However, after some research, I found out my driver weren't that up to date.

This particular laptop has an intel processor with an IGP and a discreet second graphic card from AMD. It is quite nice :) I wanted to get the best performance from those parts, so I tried to update the drivers of both intel and AMD. Well that failed miserably. Apparently, in order to install a particular driver on this laptop, it needs to be certified by ACER itself.... :-|

I have two questions. First, I'm not used to waiting on certification on my desktop. I build them myself. Is this something common with laptops ? Also what happens when ACER goes under ? What if they just stop supporting this particular laptop in 1 year ?
 
I have two questions. First, I'm not used to waiting on certification on my desktop. I build them myself. Is this something common with laptops ? Also what happens when ACER goes under ? What if they just stop supporting this particular laptop in 1 year ?

It used to be a very common thing with ALL laptops and laptop manufacturers.

AMD/ATI didn't even support laptops with standardized drivers until the Mobility Radeon HD 2xxx series, and even now, you can only DIY with certain manufacturers.

Some like Sony, Acer, Toshiba and Panasonic won't allow you to install drivers from AMD directly, they've been hardlocked to detect those drivers and block installation (and vice versa). You are forced to rely on the OEM's to update the drivers themselves, which could take ages as compared to the vendor.

Others, like DELL are a lot more lenient and allow you the freedom of installing standard drivers directly from AMD's website.

On the other side of the coin, NVIDIA has better driver support for most, if not all laptop manufacturers. Driver blocks aren't enforced, AFAIK.

It's one of the things to wary of when purchasing laptops with dual (integrated and dedicated) graphics solutions. You're pretty much up shit creek without a paddle if they stop supporting the laptop model.
 
soo I really need to get my desktop PC working again, I'm missing out on too many wonderful games :(

i did a reinstall, and in the middle of reinstall it got stuck/restarted or something. reinstalled again and its in the mode where you have to install all your drivers, the resolution isn't right, etc...but generally its "working".

I can't delete the "windows.old" folder. i've tried disk cleanup as well as using command prompt.


So, I figure there's nothing on the comp I need anyways and I try to restore to factory settings (that should also get rid of windows.old), but my computer can't "find the system image" ;___;

what do i doooo?
 

Ashhong

Member
So I just reformatted my computer and im having trouble with my Asus Xonar DG soundcard. Basically I can't get the mic to work, and I know it's not the mic...

I installed all the drivers and everything but its not registering any sound..any ideas?

edit: i got it, i am the man.
 

accx

Member
soo I really need to get my desktop PC working again, I'm missing out on too many wonderful games :(

i did a reinstall, and in the middle of reinstall it got stuck/restarted or something. reinstalled again and its in the mode where you have to install all your drivers, the resolution isn't right, etc...but generally its "working".

I can't delete the "windows.old" folder. i've tried disk cleanup as well as using command prompt.


So, I figure there's nothing on the comp I need anyways and I try to restore to factory settings (that should also get rid of windows.old), but my computer can't "find the system image" ;___;

what do i doooo?

Use Windows USB Tool, create a bootable ISO (unless you have your windows disk available already)

Boot from that and do a full format. It's going to be easier to just start from scratch.


So I just reformatted my computer and im having trouble with my Asus Xonar DG soundcard. Basically I can't get the mic to work, and I know it's not the mic...

I installed all the drivers and everything but its not registering any sound..any ideas?

edit: i got it, i am the man.

wisdom_of_the_ancients.png

;p
Please type out your fix in your post instead of just going "i fixed it".
One of the most infuriating things when you're troubleshooting and helping people and you come across someone that fixed it and just posted "nvm, fixed it".
 

accx

Member
So, how's Microsoft Security Essentials nowadays?

It's fine. Combine it with superantimalware and malware bytes. I only install these when nececssary, for example when i wanna do a full scan for peace of mind. Both add services which may slow down your computer, depending on hardware. If you don't want to install/uninstall these but turn off the services go to:
Windows Button -> Run -> "services.msc" (without "")
Find "SAS Core Service", Double Click, set Startup Type to "Manual", Hit stop, Hit Apply and Ok.
Find "MBAMService" and do the same thing. I believe there's another one called "MEEClientService" but i dunno. I can't find the entries on my computer.

To prevent them from starting on computer startup:
Windows Button -> Run -> "msconfig" (without "")
Go to the startup tab and uncheck the entries.

This is on Windows 7. The process is similar in Windows 8 but you'll have to google for that.
I also use ComboFix, but only when i'm infected, which never happens these days.
 
I just need a quick second diagnosis please:

Someone I know brought me a PC that shows wavy lines all across the screen even at BIOS/Boot-up and we already tried different cables and screens plus using one of the two RAMs at a time. They are using a Intel i3 with the On-Board Integrated GPU though I haven't looked yet if it's Sandy or Ivy Bridge. Nothing was changed in the last two years and the rest of the PC still seems to work fine, did some quick RAM check and Prime95 tests though nothing showed up. Since the person needs the PC working back today I can't do any prolonged tests though I guess it's safe to say the Integrated GPU of the i3 bit the dust?

If so, I suspect simply adding a cheap 40€ discrete GPU would do the trick though could that be the first sign of a full CPU failure? I don't want to install a extra GPU only for the CPU fully malfunctioning soon :/

Thanks for any help in advance!
 

terrisus

Member
This is kind of a random question - and basically the exact opposite of the type of question which would normally get asked (which is why I'm having difficulty searching for information, since all the results are about the opposite thing), but I figured it can't hurt to ask.

For my laptop's disc tray, is there any way to get it so that the eject button on the tray does not eject the tray?

The issue is that the button is in a place that I accidentally hit quite often, causing the tray to eject. Not only is it annoying, but it seems like just a matter of time until it ejects and gets hit against something and breaks.
If I actually need to eject the tray, I can do it through right-clicking on it in My Computer and choosing Eject from there, so I would still have a way to do it without the button doing anything. So, is there any way to disable the button on the tray from ejecting it?
 

accx

Member
I just need a quick second diagnosis please:

Someone I know brought me a PC that shows wavy lines all across the screen even at BIOS/Boot-up and we already tried different cables and screens plus using one of the two RAMs at a time. They are using a Intel i3 with the On-Board Integrated GPU though I haven't looked yet if it's Sandy or Ivy Bridge. Nothing was changed in the last two years and the rest of the PC still seems to work fine, did some quick RAM check and Prime95 tests though nothing showed up. Since the person needs the PC working back today I can't do any prolonged tests though I guess it's safe to say the Integrated GPU of the i3 bit the dust?

If so, I suspect simply adding a cheap 40€ discrete GPU would do the trick though could that be the first sign of a full CPU failure? I don't want to install a extra GPU only for the CPU fully malfunctioning soon :/

Thanks for any help in advance!

Did you use another monitor? Would you mind posting a picture?
I've never encountered faulty onboard gpu chip. Do you have a discrete GPU available that you can add to the system and try to boot just for the sake of it?


This is kind of a random question - and basically the exact opposite of the type of question which would normally get asked (which is why I'm having difficulty searching for information, since all the results are about the opposite thing), but I figured it can't hurt to ask.

For my laptop's disc tray, is there any way to get it so that the eject button on the tray does not eject the tray?

The issue is that the button is in a place that I accidentally hit quite often, causing the tray to eject. Not only is it annoying, but it seems like just a matter of time until it ejects and gets hit against something and breaks.
If I actually need to eject the tray, I can do it through right-clicking on it in My Computer and choosing Eject from there, so I would still have a way to do it without the button doing anything. So, is there any way to disable the button on the tray from ejecting it?

The easy answer:
No.
The complicated answer:
Yes.. You could unscrew the drive and remove it from the laptop and get a external case for the drive and plug it in via usb, whenever you wanna use it.

The button on your laptop will always eject your drive, no matter what. The only way to disable it is to remove the drive altogether.
 

Mohasus

Member
Just posted on PC thread, didn't know this one existed. :(

How do I remove steamos (Steam OS) from the boot list on UEFI? The HDD where it was installed isn't even in my computer anymore.
 

terrisus

Member
The easy answer:
No.
The complicated answer:
Yes.. You could unscrew the drive and remove it from the laptop and get a external case for the drive and plug it in via usb, whenever you wanna use it.

The button on your laptop will always eject your drive, no matter what. The only way to disable it is to remove the drive altogether.

Blah, that's what I figured.

Given how infrequently I use my disc drive, I've been considering getting a HD caddy for that spot and replacing the disc drive with another HD, and as you said just connecting the drive by USB when I need it. That may be my best option all-around.
 

accx

Member
Blah, that's what I figured.

Given how infrequently I use my disc drive, I've been considering getting a HD caddy for that spot and replacing the disc drive with another HD, and as you said just connecting the drive by USB when I need it. That may be my best option all-around.

Sounds like a good plan. There's caddy's available on ebay.
I figure you could always try add a bit of tape on the button, but eh.. it's only a temporary solution anyways.
 

Canon

Banned
When scrolling I notice faint black bars on my Dell 27" ultrasharp (2709w). Black banding? It's not solid black -- just behind the content. Started noticing it recently. It's not too bad, subtle, but annoying.
 
So here's an interesting one:

Noticed some weird texture flickering / problems with lighting in games a little while back and now I am getting the following problem in multiple games, card is an MSI GTX 660:


Here's what I have tried all with no help:

Cleaned out drivers, updated to two different versions.
Completely formatted my SSD and tried with a fresh build of Windows.
Monitored temps with three different programs, at idle the card sits around 29 and at full load the highest I have seen it get is 66 with full ultra settings.
Monitored voltage, never fluctuated.
Pulled the card from my motherboard, reset it.
Used a different DVI cable
Tried a different 6 pin connector off my PSU.
Ran EVGA precision to test for artifacts, found none.

The weird part is that every time it happens, a single red dot appears in the same spot every time on my task bar. I can get this red dot to disappear by switching back to Windows 7 basic in the personalize screen. Most of the time I can also get the artifacting in game to disappear by either alt-tabbing or by switching all the settings from high/ultra to low and back again. So far I have had no computer crashes and I can still play games normally for hours even with the weird issues.

I'm planning to just RMA the card on Monday for the hell of it, was just curious if anyone had ever come across a similar issue.
 
Tech Support Gaf I need your troubleshooting powers.

I normally post from my Galaxy S4 while commuting on the train to Chicago but lately I can't log in neogaf from the mobile version of the site. I always get java script required error. But I looked at my mobile browser's settings (google chrome) and java script is enabled/allowed.

Thoughts?
 

Ashhong

Member
wisdom_of_the_ancients.png

;p
Please type out your fix in your post instead of just going "i fixed it".
One of the most infuriating things when you're troubleshooting and helping people and you come across someone that fixed it and just posted "nvm, fixed it".

Lol, that is very true. I had to open my Xonar Control Center, go to the Recording tab, select the Mic and change the setting from the Front to Rear Mic input. Really strange that it's front by default.

What do you need Ash, AMD's 11.11a drivers or 12.11 Cap 2?

Anyway, here're some alternate links for both:-

AMD 11.11a drivers from Softpedia


AMD 12.11 Cap 2 (uploaded personally by me, since Softpedia doesn't have a working link.)

I've downloaded and verified both to be virus-free and working perfectly.
,
Hey Ambient, my GPU seems to be idling around 12C higher after reformatting my computer. Could that be because of the 11.11a drivers and the Cap? I can't remember if I had those installed previously or not. I was thinking of updating to the latest drivers since my performance is ok. Can I keep that Cap with the latest drivers?
 
Hey Ambient, my GPU seems to be idling around 12C higher after reformatting my computer. Could that be because of the 11.11a drivers and the Cap? I can't remember if I had those installed previously or not. I was thinking of updating to the latest drivers since my performance is ok. Can I keep that Cap with the latest drivers?

Nah, the drivers shouldn't do anything of the sort to your system. It's been a year (2013) since I last recommended those drivers to you, and as I recall, they didn't do anything of the sort when you last used them before the reformat right? The GPU could just be idling at higher clocks, check them using GPUz as always.

As for the "latest" drivers, I should remind you that you'd be technically using AMD's legacy drivers anyway, since the 4xxx series aren't supported in the latest official drivers anymore.

I'd keep the 11.11a drivers if I were you (performance is king), but if you insist on going for the "latest" Legacy drivers, you don't need the cap anymore, since they're intergrated in those drivers.
 

Nephtis

Member
So here's an interesting one:

Noticed some weird texture flickering / problems with lighting in games a little while back and now I am getting the following problem in multiple games, card is an MSI GTX 660:



Here's what I have tried all with no help:

Cleaned out drivers, updated to two different versions.
Completely formatted my SSD and tried with a fresh build of Windows.
Monitored temps with three different programs, at idle the card sits around 29 and at full load the highest I have seen it get is 66 with full ultra settings.
Monitored voltage, never fluctuated.
Pulled the card from my motherboard, reset it.
Used a different DVI cable
Tried a different 6 pin connector off my PSU.
Ran EVGA precision to test for artifacts, found none.

The weird part is that every time it happens, a single red dot appears in the same spot every time on my task bar. I can get this red dot to disappear by switching back to Windows 7 basic in the personalize screen. Most of the time I can also get the artifacting in game to disappear by either alt-tabbing or by switching all the settings from high/ultra to low and back again. So far I have had no computer crashes and I can still play games normally for hours even with the weird issues.

I'm planning to just RMA the card on Monday for the hell of it, was just curious if anyone had ever come across a similar issue.

Did this happen before you updated the drivers? You may need to switch back to an older driver version. Given what you've done though, I'd say that RMAing it would probably be best.
 
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