I'm at my dad's house cleaning up his laptop and he has an odd glitch. His USB ports are dead except for a tiny second if I refresh the hardware in the device manager or shut down and start up the computer. They turn on for a split second then turn right back off. I've tried uninstalling them and letting windows pick them back up again. I've turned off the power saving mode in the options and in window's registry but nothing is working. They're not completely dead as far as I can tell because of the split second they do work before they die again.
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Are they functional in BIOS/Linux? burn a linux live cd (like ubuntu) or create a bootable usb drive and see if it recognizes them, by installing a mouse or whatever.
...err i guess you might not be able to do a bootable usb.
Have you tried cleaning the inside of the ports with something like isopropyl alcohol? Turn the computer off, disconnect the battery and power supply and try cleaning em out.
I'm having problem with disk utilization reading on the task manager on windows 8.1.
I have been googling the problem up and saw lots of people with similar situation as me.
This one describes it really well.
I tried doing benchmark using the windows experience index and my result is the same as my previous result. Tried transferring a large file and I can pretty hit the max transfer rate of my hard disk. So performance wise there's nothing wrong with my system but this incorrect reading bothers me a lot.
And this seems like the correct answer for this problem because the reading is completely bonkers.
My question is which driver should I update and how?
Tried searching seagate site for hard drive driver but I found nothing.
I have been googling the problem up and saw lots of people with similar situation as me.
This one describes it really well.
I tried doing benchmark using the windows experience index and my result is the same as my previous result. Tried transferring a large file and I can pretty hit the max transfer rate of my hard disk. So performance wise there's nothing wrong with my system but this incorrect reading bothers me a lot.
And this seems like the correct answer for this problem because the reading is completely bonkers.
My question is which driver should I update and how?
Tried searching seagate site for hard drive driver but I found nothing.
I don't remember if I actually installed the cap back then. My GPU is on default settings, idles at only 500mhz when not in use. As soon as the comp turns on I see the temp goes from 42, which I believe it used to idle at, and then rises to about 56. It's not even hot in my room or anything...kind of weird
I'm having an audio and video issue with my HTPC.
First issue: I'm using a DVI to HDMI converter to my HDTV, and I knew right away that I wouldn't get any audio. I figured it would be as simple as hooking up a 3.5mm audio cable to the audio input. That didn't work. I then noticed that that audio input on my TV is related to hooking up a VGA cable (input is right beside it). I tested out the audio input on the PC with my speakers and it's working fine. I fiddled with the settings to see what I can get and nothing seems to be working. How do I go about getting audio coming from the PC to the TV? Cheap solution preferred.
Second issue: I'm getting full screen 1920x1080, but the sides are cut off. The next size down gives me black bars on all sides (which makes sense). How do I get the picture to fit to exactly my TV's screen size?
First issue: I'm using a DVI to HDMI converter to my HDTV, and I knew right away that I wouldn't get any audio. I figured it would be as simple as hooking up a 3.5mm audio cable to the audio input. That didn't work. I then noticed that that audio input on my TV is related to hooking up a VGA cable (input is right beside it). I tested out the audio input on the PC with my speakers and it's working fine. I fiddled with the settings to see what I can get and nothing seems to be working. How do I go about getting audio coming from the PC to the TV? Cheap solution preferred.
Second issue: I'm getting full screen 1920x1080, but the sides are cut off. The next size down gives me black bars on all sides (which makes sense). How do I get the picture to fit to exactly my TV's screen size?
daizydoesit
Banned
I need help with my MacBook!! Immediately
I figured it wouldn't since the onboard sound is separate from the video card, but if it ends up working, you'll have my regards.
It's an LG 32LD400.
It sounds like audio source setting issue. When you plug in your hdmi cable, it becomes your primary audio source. But that is hdmi into hdmi plug, In your case it might be different.
It's an overscan issue.
Try googling overscan for your videocard or your tv.
Uhhh. Are you sure?
I don't think this is possible.
I tested out speakers with the DVI to HDMI connected and there was sound coming from the speakers.
I haven't dabbled in PC parts in ages, but would buying a video card with an HDMI port directly built into the card get my audio working on my TV from just the HDMI cable?
Okay, trying this because at this point, it's damn wierd.
To enable YbYcr color mode, i need to connect a cable that's PC-DVI-HDMI-Monitor.
So, i took said cable, and connected it - no video signal shown.
I've united tested all the ports and the cable in multiple ways:
HDMI-HDMI cable works
PC-HDMI-DVI-MONITOR works
DVI-DVI cable works
PC-DVI-VGA-MONITOR works
And i'm at a complete loss here. Anyone has any idea that makes sense?
(Monitor: AOC 2450W, GPU: Nvidia GeForce gtx 660)
To enable YbYcr color mode, i need to connect a cable that's PC-DVI-HDMI-Monitor.
So, i took said cable, and connected it - no video signal shown.
I've united tested all the ports and the cable in multiple ways:
HDMI-HDMI cable works
PC-HDMI-DVI-MONITOR works
DVI-DVI cable works
PC-DVI-VGA-MONITOR works
And i'm at a complete loss here. Anyone has any idea that makes sense?
(Monitor: AOC 2450W, GPU: Nvidia GeForce gtx 660)
Yes you can, the DVI to HDMI that is supplied with your card often will support audio through DVI.
Yes. That will work but that sounds like a very expensive solution.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KR1OG/?tag=neogaf0e-20
How about this type of cable?
Oh wait.I am being dumb. Hdmi inputs usually is not coupled with rca audio inputs. Sorry. But this will work if you have an audio receiver.
Even better. I'll pick up those cables at the local parts store and give it a shot.
daizydoesit
Banned
I have a presentation for my astronautics and space environment course and my computer is stuck on a black screen. I bought my laptop maybe 3 weeks ago. My presentation is due Thursday and it's 60% of my grade. So I'm in need of advice ASAP.
On a side note, you should be able to get digital audio to your tv using just the dvi-hdmi adapter. You need to make sure you are set so that the audio is configured to go out through dvi. But if you are satisfied with what you did then disregard this post
Need more details. Make and model of computer? Windows 8? Do you at least see a boot logo or is it just black 100% of the time? Try hooking it up to an external monitor?
Power down, disconnect AC adapter and pull battery to make sure it's 100% off and not stuck in sleep mode / hibernation. Then add battery and try to start it up again.
terrisus
Member
So, poking around at this again:
I got the drive to show up in Disk Management.
It shows up as Disk 3 (with Disks 0, 1, and 2 being my internal drives)
However, under Disk 3, it just says "Unknown" and "Not Initialized," and with no partitions or partitionable space
Right-clicking on it and choosing Initialize Disk pops up with the initialization options for Disk 3, however when trying to initialize it, it says "The specified disk is not convertible because the size is less than the minimum size required for GTP disks."
So, am I out of luck here, or what's going on with it?
(By the way, to note, I don't care about recovering anything on it, just want it to be usable again)
On a side note, you should be able to get digital audio to your tv using just the dvi-hdmi adapter. You need to make sure you are set so that the audio is configured to go out through dvi. But if you are satisfied with what you did then disregard this post
I'll investigate this further once I get my HTPC all set up. Thanks!
daizydoesit
Banned
I took it to a computer guy because I know nothing about computers, and he said it's impossible to fix and that he would trade me my computer for one of his working laptops. Is that sketch?
Is it a MacBook? Do you hear the boot-up sound when you turn it on?
If so, do you have an Apple Store or Apple Authorized Service provider nearby? I would take it to them to get a look. Apple Store may be heavily booked, though.
Do you guys know how to transfer all old emails and forward new emails from a yahoo email account to gmail?
My friend is having trouble with this as yahoo is stating they need to use a Yahoo Mail Plus for POP access. Is this true or is there anyway around it?
Thank you guys in advance.
My friend is having trouble with this as yahoo is stating they need to use a Yahoo Mail Plus for POP access. Is this true or is there anyway around it?
Thank you guys in advance.
daizydoesit
Banned
Yeah it's a MacBook, I've never heard any type of boot up sound now that I think about it. Maybe I've never paid attention or maybe it's a manufacturing defect. But I made an apple appointment. For later today, I got lucky.
Thank you, but my friends wants to send all of their old and new incoming email from yahoo to a gmail account as they want to stop using yahoo mail all together.
Although the method you described will allow for viewing the emails.
Good. Trading computers is high on the sketch meter, especially if it's a MacBook.
One other thing you could try: turn it on, immediately press and hold the SHIFT button. If the screen works and you get to a drive selection screen, pick OS X.
I have spent a while trying to diagnose this but it's doing my head in now so I'm posting here.
I have a laptop, that when you log in normally, it just loads a black screen with a cursor. When you start up in safe mode and log in, it loads up fine.
Logging in normally, you can open the task manager and then run as administrator the file "userinit.exe" and then windows boots up as normal. I have done various system scans, sfc /scannow, I have done start up repairs - I have tried so much but I'm just not getting anywhere. All the registry keys that a quick google points to are all correct.
I don't want to completely wipe the laptop, I would rather just try and fix it but I'm exhausting every option and every bit of my knowledge trying.
Anyone got any ideas?
I have a laptop, that when you log in normally, it just loads a black screen with a cursor. When you start up in safe mode and log in, it loads up fine.
Logging in normally, you can open the task manager and then run as administrator the file "userinit.exe" and then windows boots up as normal. I have done various system scans, sfc /scannow, I have done start up repairs - I have tried so much but I'm just not getting anywhere. All the registry keys that a quick google points to are all correct.
I don't want to completely wipe the laptop, I would rather just try and fix it but I'm exhausting every option and every bit of my knowledge trying.
Anyone got any ideas?
Have you disabled anything via msconfig? You may have turned off a startup program.
I have but then I've reset it back to how it was and still nothing.
Need help NeoGAF with this wifi connection.
I'll keep it short.
- ISP has a hotspot that sometimes work sometimes doesn't. I get better speeds so that's what I prefer when it's working.
- The connection isn't at fault, at least not with my iPod Touch since it works great
- Drivers have been re-installed 2-3 times still get the issue. Also this is the only connection on my PC that has issues, tried with two adapters.
- 2-3 different wifi connection broadcasts with the same name. One is channel 1 the other is channel 6. Not sure if this contributes to anything.
- When I diagnose the problem with the built-in diagnose tool in Windows 7 it tells me it can't reach the DNS server. Tried googling how to do it and tried doing it but still not working.
What should I do?
I'll keep it short.
- ISP has a hotspot that sometimes work sometimes doesn't. I get better speeds so that's what I prefer when it's working.
- The connection isn't at fault, at least not with my iPod Touch since it works great
- Drivers have been re-installed 2-3 times still get the issue. Also this is the only connection on my PC that has issues, tried with two adapters.
- 2-3 different wifi connection broadcasts with the same name. One is channel 1 the other is channel 6. Not sure if this contributes to anything.
- When I diagnose the problem with the built-in diagnose tool in Windows 7 it tells me it can't reach the DNS server. Tried googling how to do it and tried doing it but still not working.
What should I do?
ambientmystic
Member
Simple answer:
No. Don't do it.
Detailed answer:
Depends. If both the Toshiba and the Packard Bell laptop require chargers of the same wattage (e.g. 65W), and have compatibie connectors, it may just work out. Else, it won't.
Best case scenario, the Toshiba fails to charge it's battery and has reduced performance when turning it on due to insufficient wattage. You may also get a warning ine BIOS on startup about the incompatible charger.
Worst case scenario, you cause permanent damage to the laptop, albeit that's highly unlikely with modern electronic devices.
Dastardly Jerks
Banned
I want to clone a HDD plugged in via a USB caddy to an iMac.
I'll be using Carbon Copy Cleaner.
Does anyone have any advice on doing a direct clone using this software to a Mac? What do I need to do? I came across this but it looks like it's for a secondary drive and not the actual bootable drive itself.
I'll be using Carbon Copy Cleaner.
Does anyone have any advice on doing a direct clone using this software to a Mac? What do I need to do? I came across this but it looks like it's for a secondary drive and not the actual bootable drive itself.
To clarify you want to clone an external HDD to the boot drive of the iMac?
You can't do a hard drive clone to a live disk, you would need another computer and put the iMac in target disk mode. A better option would be reinstall OS X on the iMac and during setup use the Migration Assistant to transfer the data off the external hard drive.
megarockexe
Member
I've got terrible problems again.
So my computer just hard froze randomly today. Oddly enough, the time kept going, but my keyboard and mouse would not take inputs. I tried shutting down by pushing the button on my tower, but it wouldn't shut down because of Firefox tabs.
When I did restart, I was getting the dreaded winload 0xc00000e error again. Like always, it just boots correctly after a little while.This time, however, my Skype apps (desktop/win8) all automatically close. Also, Internet Explorer crashes at launch. Event Viewer is saying the Search Indexer crashes about 5 times and its all very unusual. I can boot fine and load other programs otherwise, but I need to know what's wrong. Is it a hardware issue? Software? What do I do?
So my computer just hard froze randomly today. Oddly enough, the time kept going, but my keyboard and mouse would not take inputs. I tried shutting down by pushing the button on my tower, but it wouldn't shut down because of Firefox tabs.
When I did restart, I was getting the dreaded winload 0xc00000e error again. Like always, it just boots correctly after a little while.This time, however, my Skype apps (desktop/win8) all automatically close. Also, Internet Explorer crashes at launch. Event Viewer is saying the Search Indexer crashes about 5 times and its all very unusual. I can boot fine and load other programs otherwise, but I need to know what's wrong. Is it a hardware issue? Software? What do I do?
BIGWORM
Member
Need help on a semi-new build. I had an FX-8320 CPU with an MSI 970A-G46 AM3 board. I switched over my setup today to an 4670K on a Gigabyte Z87-DS3H. For some reason, my OS drive, an OCZ Vertex 2 SSD, refuses to cooperate with the new setup. It worked perfectly fine with my old setup, but now, 85% of the time, the BIOS doesn't pick it up. In the beginning, I somehow managed to install Win7 on the disc, but after initial installations and update, it's gone completely uncooperative.
I've DISKPARTED it no less than 4 times, but now the drive is sporadic as far being recognized within Win7 setup. I've resorted to installing Win7 on an older WD Caviar, but now windows is giving me an error that it's failing. I've never had an OS on this WD Caviar before. I've looked up what it could be as far as the SSD not cooperating, and read up on the Sandforce cold boot bug. I've updated the firmware on the SSD but still nothing.
Outside of the motherboard and processor being switched out, I also added my old LG DL DVDRW. I wouldn't think it would be a power draw situation, as the AMD setup would've been more taxing on my PSU anyway. It's a Cooler Master 550W, btw. I've already chucked it up to a faulting SSD (a small SSD at that, 60GB), and I'll be looking for a replacement in the morning. I just posted this to see if maybe I can get a second opinion or different options available to me before I get another SSD. Thanks for any help.
I've DISKPARTED it no less than 4 times, but now the drive is sporadic as far being recognized within Win7 setup. I've resorted to installing Win7 on an older WD Caviar, but now windows is giving me an error that it's failing. I've never had an OS on this WD Caviar before. I've looked up what it could be as far as the SSD not cooperating, and read up on the Sandforce cold boot bug. I've updated the firmware on the SSD but still nothing.
Outside of the motherboard and processor being switched out, I also added my old LG DL DVDRW. I wouldn't think it would be a power draw situation, as the AMD setup would've been more taxing on my PSU anyway. It's a Cooler Master 550W, btw. I've already chucked it up to a faulting SSD (a small SSD at that, 60GB), and I'll be looking for a replacement in the morning. I just posted this to see if maybe I can get a second opinion or different options available to me before I get another SSD. Thanks for any help.
Thanks.
Need some help please guys...Before I start, here is my system specs -
Mobo: ASRock 970 Extreme3
CPU: AMD FX 4100 3.60 GHz
Ram: Generic 4GB (Not sure what brand)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R7 250
HDD: 1 x WD 320GB, 1 x WD 640GB
So last month I tried to upgrade my RAM to 8GB, I got a Corsair Vengeance 1x8GB stick (speed is 1333mhz). Also found out that I had to upgrade the OS (Windows 7) to a 64-bit version in order to get it working, however, upgrading the RAM seemed to cause a complete crash of my entire system, so I had to reinstall everything, and a quick memory test told me it was a faulty RAM stick.
Long story short I Finally got the Ram stick replaced today, only to find the same thing happening (not a complete system crash, thank goodness, just had Win7 restarting over and over.) I can't seem to find anything on the net about a problem with this particular brand of Ram stick, however I did find the RAM compatibility list on the ASRock website, and my stick isn't listed.
So before I try and offload the thing on eBay, is there anything I can try to get it working, or is it just simply an incompatibility issue?
Mobo: ASRock 970 Extreme3
CPU: AMD FX 4100 3.60 GHz
Ram: Generic 4GB (Not sure what brand)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R7 250
HDD: 1 x WD 320GB, 1 x WD 640GB
So last month I tried to upgrade my RAM to 8GB, I got a Corsair Vengeance 1x8GB stick (speed is 1333mhz). Also found out that I had to upgrade the OS (Windows 7) to a 64-bit version in order to get it working, however, upgrading the RAM seemed to cause a complete crash of my entire system, so I had to reinstall everything, and a quick memory test told me it was a faulty RAM stick.
Long story short I Finally got the Ram stick replaced today, only to find the same thing happening (not a complete system crash, thank goodness, just had Win7 restarting over and over.) I can't seem to find anything on the net about a problem with this particular brand of Ram stick, however I did find the RAM compatibility list on the ASRock website, and my stick isn't listed.
So before I try and offload the thing on eBay, is there anything I can try to get it working, or is it just simply an incompatibility issue?
Have you tried updating BIOS?
Latest update says "increasted memory compability" or something like that
http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/970%20Extreme3/?cat=Download&os=BIOS
Did you post earlier in this thread? Can you link to it if that's the case?
Run Memtest86 (for 8+ hours), create a bootable usb stick.
Is it a clean windows install on your hard drive (or did you put a drive with windows installed already in a new system)?
Are you running any overclock? have you changed anything in bios?
Have you run MSE (or your personal choice of antivirus) and scanned everything?
Used malwarebytes?
Have you done any hardware changes?
Have you tried different sata ports on the mobo?
Have you fiddled with the sata bios settings (RAID/IDE MODE/AHCI?)
Since two drives are giving you an error (the SSD and the HDD), maybe a faulty mobo?
Have you tried the Caviar (HDD) on your old parts?
Just tried that, didn't work. Just made my PC restart over and over. (Lost video for a bit too for some reason.)
I think I might chalk it up as a lost cause. Computers can be very frustrating.
BIGWORM
Member
I had done all those things, actually. I just chucked it up to some sort of incompatibility with the motherboard. I was using another Segate as a secondary and had no problems with it. I even installed Win7 on it and had no problems with the BIOS picking it up. I've gone and put the Vertex in my laptop (using it now, actually), and I've no problems running it. I've had the Samsung EVO installed since yesterday on my rig; extensive gameplay, benchmarking and what have you, I've had no problems with it. It may have been the faulting Caviar messing with the SSD because it was daisy-chained on power. That's the only other thing I can think of.
Whatever the case, a 60GB SSD was too small for rig's OS partition, anyway.
Awesome! Glad I can help.
RoninChaos
Member
I'm gonna throw my wife's pc in the street.
Basically tried to do a clean install of windows 7. Ran into a ton of problems. First, I need a copy of windows 7 pro. I have the key, and I have an ISO that I burned but it doesn't work.
The ISO I try and download says its three gigs. It's actually 178 megs and from digital river.
Anyway, I digress. I tried to use the ISO I did burn and I get this error:
Required CD/DVD drive device driver is missing.
WTF. It installed windows the first fucking time just fine.
The board is a crosshair III. I downloaded the chipset drivers and nothing has made a difference. Hoping some one here can help. I just need to reinstall windows 7. Either I need a new ISO or hopefully one of you fine folks can tell me how to get past that stupid cd error.
Basically tried to do a clean install of windows 7. Ran into a ton of problems. First, I need a copy of windows 7 pro. I have the key, and I have an ISO that I burned but it doesn't work.
The ISO I try and download says its three gigs. It's actually 178 megs and from digital river.
Anyway, I digress. I tried to use the ISO I did burn and I get this error:
Required CD/DVD drive device driver is missing.
WTF. It installed windows the first fucking time just fine.
The board is a crosshair III. I downloaded the chipset drivers and nothing has made a difference. Hoping some one here can help. I just need to reinstall windows 7. Either I need a new ISO or hopefully one of you fine folks can tell me how to get past that stupid cd error.
BIGWORM
Member
Sup RC? Long time. Anyway, check to make sure her SATA controller isn't set to AHCI or RAID in the BIOS before running the installer. I believe the installer is looking for those drivers.
The Windows 7 ISO should be around 3 gigs. If it's only 200 megs it's not correct. The last time I got the ISOs for a reinstall I got followed the digital river links from this page.
RoninChaos
Member
What up, Big Worm?
That didn't work, man. FUUUUUUUUUCK.
That's where I got the link. It says it's 3 gigs, but when I download it it's 178. I'll try it again. Maybe we got a bad download. If that doesn't work out, aNy other place i can get an ISO?
I have a windows ultimate upgrade disc but that won't work since she has a pro key.
That didn't work, man. FUUUUUUUUUCK.
That's where I got the link. It says it's 3 gigs, but when I download it it's 178. I'll try it again. Maybe we got a bad download. If that doesn't work out, aNy other place i can get an ISO?
I have a windows ultimate upgrade disc but that won't work since she has a pro key.
RoninChaos
Member
Yeah. What ends up happening is every file I download ends up being different sizes. Not sure why. I'm gonna see if I can find an ISO another way.
How you doing, man?
How you doing, man?
