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[ambientmystic]

Is there a reason why NVIDIA settings is eating up ~10% of my memory?


I've noticed that the process can hog a lot more than that, too. What does it even do?

What's the actual name of the process? (Not the one shown there but the .exe name, which you should be able toggle to, like in the classic Task Manager of prior Windows versions, in the Process tab.)

Depending on the actual name of the process, it may be perfectly normal behaviour.

 

[Omni]

It's called "nvtray.exe". It's up to 500MB today

 

[ambientmystic]

It's called "nvtray.exe". It's up to 500MB today

Okay, that's highly irregular.

What happens when you kill that process? This seems like one of those Driver Display Helper apps that GPU vendors autostart and install along with a normal driver installation, and shouldn't actually be vital to the day to day operations of your PC. (The actual NVIDIA drivers will do their job with or without the nvtray.exe app.)

I mean if you really need access the NVIDIA graphics control panel, you can always right click and and choose it from the menu that pops up.

 

[The_Hitcher89]

Wondering if someone can help me fix my PC's internet connection

My laptop is gettin 300Mbps, but the PC is only getting 65Mbps (runs like its on dialup) which I tuned down to 54Mbps by changing one of the adaptor settings from b/g/n to b/g. The internet is okay at that speed, I can watch streams just about on medium/high setting depending what website. But I would like to exploit the fibre optic connection to it's full capability if possible.


The PC has two connection options currently available, and I'm yet to see how it handles a direct ethernet connectio to the router, as the router is downstairs and I'd have to move the PC down there to try it out. If that works (gonna try it on Monday I think) it should be a simple case of running the cable through a couple of walls, and it should be fine.

Ideally though, I'd like to do it wirelessly. Here are the 2 options available now, and I'll explain what's wrong with them.

1) Wireless Network Adaptor. Basic, single-antenna wifi adaptor attached to the motherboard. Worked fine when I first built the PC, went down to 135Mbps when I first reinstalled Windows8 to get rid of a malicious piece of software, then down to 65 when I reinstalled from a new partitition as the software survived the first time.

The adaptor is this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004XFYGNK/

As I said earlier, when it was telling me I had 65Mbps, the actual speeds I was getting were terrible so I'm currently running it at 54. I've tried disabling the Firewall, looked in the BIOS, reset both the PC and router numerous times, but it seems to be limiting the connection at some point in the pipeline

2) Using a pair of Ethernet Powerline Adaptors, which basically (from my understanding) send the internet across the house's powerlines through ethernet cables attached from sockets to the router, and to the PC. When I do this, it tells me I'm getting 100Mbps, but as with the Wifi connection telling me I've got 65Mbps, the actual speeds I'm getting are dreadful when using it, to the point that the Windows Store will barely even open, let alone let me download something

This is the adaptor set: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0084Y9N3O/



From what I can tell, I'm using adaptors which should be well capable of giving me a good speed. I may be constrained from getting 300Mbps with the second option as the powerlines in my house are very old, but that doesn't explain why there's such a huge disparity in my supposed speeds, and my actual speeds.



Anyone got any ideas of what I can do to get it running properly? Worth noting that I haven't got access to the ISP account as of now (can probably get access to it soon), so I can't play around with the router settings on the ISP side

Cheers

 

[servbotx]

I currently use a PS/2 keyboard on my new computer, since I don't have a USB one yet and the motherboard has a PS/2 keyboard port on it. Everything was fine at first, but then a couple of months in, it would randomly beep when using the keyboard arrow keys. I know that it didn't always used to do this since I frequently use the arrow keys for gaming.

From what I can find online, its an input error relating to PS/2 keyboards and it is a common issue in Windows 7.

The computer is still reading the arrow inputs correctly, its just randomly beeps.

Is there a way to disable the beeping? I tried looking at the Control Panel Sound settings, but I'm not sure what to disable.

Also, why did it just start beeping now? Like I said, I use the arrow keys pretty often and never ran into the issue during the first couple of months.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

[opticalmace]

(x-post from PC thread, edited for clarity)

I can't get sound when using a miniDP to HDMI adapter, connected from a Radeon 6950 to my monitor. It works fine if I use HDMI to HDMI, but it should work with miniDP to HDMI too, right?

This is the adapter I'm using btw, which says it supports audio: http://www.amazon.ca/Mini-DisplayPort-to-HDMI-Adapter/dp/B0025V2VO0/

This is the adapter I'm using btw: http://www.amazon.ca/Mini-DisplayPort-to-HDMI-Adapter/dp/B0025V2VO0/

 

[Tecl0n]

I need a bit of help. When i powered my PC today, everything worked fine until reaching the desktop in W8 at that point, the tv "lost signal" i rebooted and this time not even the BIOS screen appeared. I then changed the connection to the onboard gpu and everything worked so i thought my gpu got fried or something. Then, i remembered something similiar happened a few years ago and i solved it by reflashing the bios, so i tried that and i got to the metro screen on W8. Yet it lost signal again when trying to access the desktop. And after the bios screen would not show when rebooted (If i reflashed again the same thing would happed, getting to desktop, losing signal, etc). I still belive it's the GPU but i've never encountered this behaviour before. Any input? (The GPU is a 270x and the mobo is a gigabyte z77x-ud3h rev 1.0 bios ver f18)

 

[BIGWORM]

Need a bit of help this time, Tech GAF.

Some of you may or may not remember I lost my past rig in a fire end of January. Well, I pulled the hard drives from my rig, and my brother in law held onto them until today. I think my main question is, can SATA drives be properly powered by a USB 3.0 dongle? My SATA drives wouldn't spin up, but my SSD had no problem spinnin up, being read/wwrote to and formatting. Would I need an enclosure for the SATA drives for a proper read, or are they proper fried?

 

[ambientmystic]

Need a bit of help this time, Tech GAF.


Some of you may or may not remember I lost my past rig in a fire end of January. Well, I pulled the hard drives from my rig, and my brother in law held onto them until today. I think my main question is, can SATA drives be properly powered by a USB 3.0 dongle? My SATA drives wouldn't spin up, but my SSD had no problem spinnin up, being read/wwrote to and formatting. Would I need an enclosure for the SATA drives for a proper read, or are they proper fried?

3.5" SATA HDDs (desktop form factor) = Nope

2.5" SATA HDDs (laptop form factor, similar to a typical SSD) = Yes

You definitely need an either an enclosure with seperate connectors for data and power for those 3.5" desktop form factor SATA HDDs or a SATA to USB dongle also with seperate connectors for data and power. USB power alone ain't enough for those.

 

[FUBAR McDangles]

Hey fellas, I have a question. All day today my laptop has been dropping my internet connection every few minutes. I'm running it over wifi from my router that is not even four feet away from my laptop and nothing else in the apartment is having any issues. Including my gf's laptop, our tablet, some family brought tablets and phone and laptops when they visited today and they had no issues.

Anyway, the signal just drops and I get a yellow exclamation over the four bar signal/picture that says no internet connection. I refresh the page a few times and then it works for another few minutes and drops again.

Anybody have any ideas? I restarted my laptop once already and it did nothing to curb the problem.

 

[ambientmystic]

Hey fellas, I have a question. All day today my laptop has been dropping my internet connection every few minutes. I'm running it over wifi from my router that is not even four feet away from my laptop and nothing else in the apartment is having any issues. Including my gf's laptop, our tablet, some family brought tablets and phone and laptops when they visited today and they had no issues.

Anyway, the signal just drops and I get a yellow exclamation over the four bar signal/picture that says no internet connection. I refresh the page a few times and then it works for another few minutes and drops again.

Anybody have any ideas? I restarted my laptop once already and it did nothing to curb the problem.

Need some further details like:-

1. Is today the first time the issue occured? Has it occured in the past?

2. Does the issue occur when using wired Ethernet on the same router?

3. What is make and model of the wireless module/card. Are the drivers updated?

4. Try disabling any form of wireless power saving in the Power Options. Does it make a difference?

5. Does the issue occur using other wireless routers (if possible)?

6. Try rebooting the wireless router itself. Does it make a difference?

 

[HardRojo]

Wrong thread, nvm.

 

[DaCocoBrova]

Just tried that, didn't work. Just made my PC restart over and over. (Lost video for a bit too for some reason.)

I think I might chalk it up as a lost cause. Computers can be very frustrating.

The black screen with a cursor is a well known and annoying virus. Boot into safe mode, grab your data, format and re-install.

It's the only way to be sure.

 

[Dries]

Hey guys,

I'm having weird freezes with Far Cry 3. After a while of playing my game will lock up and my screen looks like this:

The sound continues in a loop. I've also experienced this same problem with other games (Bioshock: Infinite and Hitman: Absolution). The bars also aren't always green, sometimes they're grey. They also seem to happen at very random moments. I'm pretty sure the problem is not related to:

- overheating (I've just cleaned my fans and removed all dust etc)
- drivers (I have the latest)

Some games work fine, though. For instance, Battlefield 4 never locks up like this. So so strange. Does anyone have any clue what's going on here?

 

[Menaged]

I've got a mystery on my hands.

One day, when I connected my hdmi cable from my laptop to my Panny TV, the TV screen was black, but the laptop (Lenovo G580) recognized the connection.
I played with the cable, and at a certain angel, I got the TV to display the desktop image.

I figured it must be either the cable, or my laptop. So I tried a different cable, and the problem remained exactly the same. I thought the problem might be with the TV input, but my PS3 works fine with that input.

So I told myself it must be my laptop. I took it to a local lab that opened it, and told everything is perfect inside the laptop, and they even told me it works in their place. When I went there, it did work, but under different settings. They don't have a TV, so they plugged a hdmi cable, used a VGA converter, and plugged it to their VGA input in the monitor. It worked great...

I have no idea what happens, and if I should bother to send it to a different place and pay more money...

Any ideas...?

Thanks!

 

[JustinBB7]

I guess this is the right thread for this but I have some questions about my monitor/graphics card

I got a BenQ monitor a few months ago and it has 144hz capability, I never had anything like it so I thought it was on by default, but then I found a setting in the nvidia properties to turn it from 60hz to 144hz. So I did and it runs pretty good I think (I'm bad at seeing those differences, but it did feel a lot smoother).

I've been playing through Metro: Last Light and I had a weird crash, my keyboard stopped working sort of, and my mouse went weird, ctrl+shift+esc didn't work but ctrl+alt+del did and I stopped the game and continued after that fine.

Then I upgraded my drivers and turned on the 144hz around that time. because they were from October. After the driver update my fps just plummeted, and it was unplayable, even with everything on lowest settings, turns out I had to turn off advanced physx to fix it, even though before the driver it ran fine, which was weird.

After that crash I started to monitor my GPU and checked what my max was. I have a Geforce GTX 580. The max temp for it is 97, and while playing even Dota 2 (but mostly Metro: Last Light on high settings) it would run at around 90 and even 92 degrees, I think I even saw 95 degrees. Which is kinda scary close to the max. I recently cleaned out dust out of the fan as well. (And there wasn't even that many thanks to my new case)

And just now I was watching stuff on my TV that I linked to my monitor (I turn that off whenever I don't use it) and my monitor was having weir black flickering. That stopped now after turning off the second monitor (TV) but I also tried going back to 60hz.

My "idle temp" (Firefox/Steam open) with 144hz was at 70 degrees, when I put it to 60hz it idles at like..48 degrees.

Sorry for the long rant but can anybody give me some advice on this? I'd obviously want 144hz but it runs so hot on my GPU. And I'm almost reaching max so I'm scared it will overheat, specially with summer coming in now. I guess this card is getting old (came out in 2010 I think) so it's time for a new one maybe. But I wanna wait till directx 12 details are more out there.

TLDR: Had 60hz settings, turned to 144hz, Geforce 580 runs very hot at 144hz, also had some weird black flickering while watching stuff on my second monitor (TV) that I never had before.

 

[Resilient]

Hey guys, hoping somebody may be able to shed some light on my current issue .

I just bought a Crucial m500 240gb. Wiped my 1tb and installed Windows 7 to my SSD. I linked them together in cmd prompt using the mlink commands and I changed the registerys as per a guide. Everything running smoothly. Between then (Saturday) and today I've had a bsod, a freeze on my desktop and windows update hangs. For the most part these issues stopped. However today when I went to boot up after a windows update, my computer hung before the "starting windows" screen for about 1 minute before booting. Other times it just failed altogether and asked me to use my windows 7 disc to search for problems (it found none). I tried to update the firmware of the m500 once I got back in, but it kept failing. I think I have updated it now but I'm not sure

I'm able to boot now, but it still takes about 1-2 minutes to reach the Starting Windows screen, after which everything is normal. I've checked my connections and everything seems fine inside. Unplugging and plugging my ssd power and SATA cable allowed for a normal boot up once I powered on, however subsequent attempts reverted to the old problem.

Is my SSD fried? Is my Windows install corrupted? I'm kind of at wits end at the moment because I have no idea what to look for ;( any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Sajjaja]

Uhh guys... I was working on my computer a few mins ago and the screen went flickered and then went black. I had to restart to get it back. It was running pretty loud too, like 100% loud I think, but I was only word processing and installing SWTOR so it shouldn't have been that loud I don't think. I just built this rig at the beginning of the year. Any ideas? GPU is a Sapphire R7 260x 2GB GDDR5 OC Edition.

Also, since I'm posting, sometimes when I use my computer for a while, the screen will go black for like a second or two and then come back on again. What's up with that?

 

[TronLight]

TLDR: Had 60hz settings, turned to 144hz, Geforce 580 runs very hot at 144hz, also had some weird black flickering while watching stuff on my second monitor (TV) that I never had before.

More fps = more work = more heat, basically. The same happens to me when I'm playing without vsync, maybe I'm doing 100+fps and my card (GTX570) runs hotter because of that.

Not much you can do really, I think. Unless you want to change your cooler, but at this point I don't think it would be worth it. What model is your GPU? Does it have a good cooler?

About the black flickering, I don't know, has it happened again?

 

[JustinBB7]

More fps = more work = more heat, basically. The same happens to me when I'm playing without vsync, maybe I'm doing 100+fps and my card (GTX570) runs hotter because of that.

Not much you can do really, I think. Unless you want to change your cooler, but at this point I don't think it would be worth it. What model is your GPU? Does it have a good cooler?

About the black flickering, I don't know, has it happened again?

Yea don't want to change cooler, I'll just leave it at 60hz until I get a new GPU, at least during the summer. Though even on 60hz it still gets to 92 degrees even while playing relatively low graphic games like CS:GO/Dota 2. That still kinda scares me with the max temp being 97. I think the cooler runs at 85% max speed when it does that.

The black flickering hasn't come back, I guess it had something to do with my TV and me switching around the hz or something.

 

[Rufus]

Another thing you could try is to improve the ventilation of your case, if there's any room to improve.

 

[TronLight]

Yea don't want to change cooler, I'll just leave it at 60hz until I get a new GPU, at least during the summer. Though even on 60hz it still gets to 92 degrees even while playing relatively low graphic games like CS:GO/Dota 2. That still kinda scares me with the max temp being 97. I think the cooler runs at 85% max speed when it does that.

The black flickering hasn't come back, I guess it had something to do with my TV and me switching around the hz or something.

Are you by chance using a GPU whit this kind of cooler?

Because 92° even at 60hz with those games isn't normal. I mean, with my card the max I've seen was 76°, and that was with a very GPU intensive game and 2 years worth of dust on the cooler.

 

[clockworkinyou]

Ok GAF, I'm having severe internet issues:

-Constant buffering of things like youtube/twitch/etc. Plays for ~5 seconds and then buffers for ~5 seconds. Repeat endlessly.

-Diablo 3 lag spikes are absolutely horrible. Same with DOTA 2.

-I've ran speedtest.net during the above slow times, and my speeds are still showing 20ms ping/~25MB Download/~8MB Upload.

-I've restarted my modem/router (Comcast Xfinity) numerous times and the computer as well. Doesn't seem to help at all. My PC is the only internet device other than my Iphone on WiFi on the network, which is protected. The PC is on ethernet, not WiFi.

Any ideas what I can do? I've called Comcast and of course they said everything is fine, must be my computer.

 

[Deadly Cyclone]

I have a question. I have a Surface Pro for work and use it in meetings and such. Randomly a few weeks back it stopped connecting to our company wifi. It's a hidden network, so I went into the wifi area and typed in the SSID again to try and reconnect, but immediately it pops open the Windows help window without even trying to connect. I can connect to our guest network and other wifi fine, but it won't even let me try to connect to the hidden network and I have verified the name I am using is correct, I can't even get to where I need to enter a username and password.

Any ideas? Is there a way I can wipe all remembered wifi names/etc and start fresh?

 

[scogoth]

Ok GAF, I'm having severe internet issues:

-Constant buffering of things like youtube/twitch/etc. Plays for ~5 seconds and then buffers for ~5 seconds. Repeat endlessly.

-Diablo 3 lag spikes are absolutely horrible. Same with DOTA 2.

-I've ran speedtest.net during the above slow times, and my speeds are still showing 20ms ping/~25MB Download/~8MB Upload.

-I've restarted my modem/router (Comcast Xfinity) numerous times and the computer as well. Doesn't seem to help at all. My PC is the only internet device other than my Iphone on WiFi on the network, which is protected. The PC is on ethernet, not WiFi.

Any ideas what I can do? I've called Comcast and of course they said everything is fine, must be my computer.

First check device manager to see that you have the proper/latest ethernet drivers. Second open up command prompt and type "ping www.google.com /t". Make sure the results are consistent, if there is a lot of spiking up and down then that could confirm a problem. Another thing to try is changing your DNS to openDNS (208.67.222.222) or google (8.8.8.8)

Unfortunately this is a pretty generic issue but keep updating here and hopefully we can figure something out

 

[clockworkinyou]

First check device manager to see that you have the proper/latest ethernet drivers. Second open up command prompt and type "ping www.google.com /t". Make sure the results are consistent, if there is a lot of spiking up and down then that could confirm a problem. Another thing to try is changing your DNS to openDNS (208.67.222.222) or google (8.8.8.8)

Unfortunately this is a pretty generic issue but keep updating here and hopefully we can figure something out

Thanks scogoth, just did all those -

-Drivers were/are up to date.

-Ping results were consistently at 35ms for about 2 minutes, no problem.

-Changed my DNS to the openDNS. Reset modem and everything and still same issues : /

 

[scogoth]

Thanks scogoth, just did all those -

-Drivers were/are up to date.

-Ping results were consistently at 35ms for about 2 minutes, no problem.

-Changed my DNS to the openDNS. Reset modem and everything and still same issues : /

Looking into comcast there seem to be quite a number of people with similar problems.
http://forums.comcast.com/t5/Basic-...-spikes-while-surfing-web-gaming/td-p/1709765

I would suggest trying turning off wireless and test with just your PC again. That may not fix the problem but if it continues then there is definitely something wrong with Comcast not your computer.

Did this always happen or just start recently, does it happen at certain times of the day or all the time? This kind of information can help comcast. I don't know about how the modem works for comcast but if you can check the connection information see how many downstream connections you are getting and what the signal strength is.

 

[Freezasaurus]

Hey guys, I may or may not have an issue. I might just be paranoid, but over the past few days, I've gotten a couple of pop-ups that concern me. One the other day from loa.teebik.com, and one today from badoink.com.... I know both to be associated with Malware, but I've scanned with both Norton and MalwareBytes. Neither one found anything.

There aren't any new installations in my control panel (running Windows 7, btw) or any mysterious Firefox extensions, and my host file looks exactly like it's supposed to. I'm guessing it was a bad advertisement that kicked off either / both. Am I chasing ghosts or is there something else I should be looking at?

 

[Rufus]

Try to keep track of what sites cause it. I've found Imgur and Dailymotion to be the culprits. I have both whitelisted in Adblock. Mostly bogus Java Updates, but it hasn't happened in a while.

 

[Freezasaurus]

Try to keep track of what sites cause it. I've found Imgur and Dailymotion to be the culprits. I have both whitelisted in Adblock. Mostly bogus Java Updates, but it hasn't happened in a while.

Yeah, it's only been two sites so far. I tend to stay away from them for a bit afterwards. Do you think these are just bad ads, or is there something on my system that I should be looking for?

 

[Rufus]

That would be my guess, yes, since I haven't been able to find anything on my system either. Try blocking the ads from those sites (consider Noscript, too), see if the problem persists.

 

[Freezasaurus]

Alright, will do. Thanks.

 

[JustinBB7]

Are you by chance using a GPU whit this kind of cooler?



Because 92° even at 60hz with those games isn't normal. I mean, with my card the max I've seen was 76°, and that was with a very GPU intensive game and 2 years worth of dust on the cooler.

Yea it looks like that, it's fully closed off with a tiny cooler like that. It's the EVGA GTX 580

 

[accx]

Hey guys, hoping somebody may be able to shed some light on my current issue .

I just bought a Crucial m500 240gb. Wiped my 1tb and installed Windows 7 to my SSD. I linked them together in cmd prompt using the mlink commands and I changed the registerys as per a guide. Everything running smoothly. Between then (Saturday) and today I've had a bsod, a freeze on my desktop and windows update hangs. For the most part these issues stopped. However today when I went to boot up after a windows update, my computer hung before the "starting windows" screen for about 1 minute before booting. Other times it just failed altogether and asked me to use my windows 7 disc to search for problems (it found none). I tried to update the firmware of the m500 once I got back in, but it kept failing. I think I have updated it now but I'm not sure

I'm able to boot now, but it still takes about 1-2 minutes to reach the Starting Windows screen, after which everything is normal. I've checked my connections and everything seems fine inside. Unplugging and plugging my ssd power and SATA cable allowed for a normal boot up once I powered on, however subsequent attempts reverted to the old problem.

Is my SSD fried? Is my Windows install corrupted? I'm kind of at wits end at the moment because I have no idea what to look for ;( any help would be greatly appreciated!

Sounds like a faulty windows install, do a clean install.
Ideally you want to update firmware when you're running the OS on another drive. Install win on the hdd, update firmware, then format the ssd and do a clean install.

EDIT:
Oh, and activate AHCI in bios if you haven't already. Do this prior to the clean install. Do not activate it with an install you already have. It will not boot (BSOD)

Uhh guys... I was working on my computer a few mins ago and the screen went flickered and then went black. I had to restart to get it back. It was running pretty loud too, like 100% loud I think, but I was only word processing and installing SWTOR so it shouldn't have been that loud I don't think. I just built this rig at the beginning of the year. Any ideas? GPU is a Sapphire R7 260x 2GB GDDR5 OC Edition.

Also, since I'm posting, sometimes when I use my computer for a while, the screen will go black for like a second or two and then come back on again. What's up with that?

Check temperatures. Or faulty drivers. Was it a clean install of windows?

Yea don't want to change cooler, I'll just leave it at 60hz until I get a new GPU, at least during the summer. Though even on 60hz it still gets to 92 degrees even while playing relatively low graphic games like CS:GO/Dota 2. That still kinda scares me with the max temp being 97. I think the cooler runs at 85% max speed when it does that.

The black flickering hasn't come back, I guess it had something to do with my TV and me switching around the hz or something.

You could change the thermal paste and see if you're getting an improvement. Also opening up the side panel. Even though you're within the threshold it's not wise running it at that temperature. If you're getting 'weird' issues from time to time that looks to be related to your gpu, it's likely it has sustained damage from the heat.

I've got a mystery on my hands.

One day, when I connected my hdmi cable from my laptop to my Panny TV, the TV screen was black, but the laptop (Lenovo G580) recognized the connection.
I played with the cable, and at a certain angel, I got the TV to display the desktop image.

I figured it must be either the cable, or my laptop. So I tried a different cable, and the problem remained exactly the same. I thought the problem might be with the TV input, but my PS3 works fine with that input.

So I told myself it must be my laptop. I took it to a local lab that opened it, and told everything is perfect inside the laptop, and they even told me it works in their place. When I went there, it did work, but under different settings. They don't have a TV, so they plugged a hdmi cable, used a VGA converter, and plugged it to their VGA input in the monitor. It worked great...

I have no idea what happens, and if I should bother to send it to a different place and pay more money...

Any ideas...?

Thanks!

Try another TV. Or anything that's a pure HDMI source, no converters. If you're not seeing the issue then, then i would suggest fiddling around with the settings on the TV.

 

[TronLight]

Yea it looks like that, it's fully closed off with a tiny cooler like that. It's the EVGA GTX 580

Yep, that's the culprit. Those coolers are terrible. Since you don't want to change cooler, there's not much you can do. Maybe you can add a fan on the bottom of your case, in order to blow some fresh air right inside the cooler.

For the future, always buy a card with non-reference cooler (reference cooler are those that look like that). Buy, instead, a card from Gigabyte (which comes with the Windforce cooler), Gainward Phantom, or Asus's DirectCU II, I mean, something with a decent cooler. They're much better at their job (as I said, I have a Gigabyte 570 with a Windforce 3, never seen anything past 76°, and it's also slitghly overclocked), much less noisy, and way easier to clean (since you don't have to remove the plastic cover).
EVGA is a great brand, but since they're mostly intended for overclock, they just slap a reference cooler on the card, because they assume that you're going to use some kind of liquid cooling with it aniway.

 

[JustinBB7]

Yep, that's the culprit. Those coolers are terrible. Since you don't want to change cooler, there's not much you can do. Maybe you can add a fan on the bottom of your case, in order to blow some fresh air right inside the cooler.

For the future, always buy a card with non-reference cooler (reference cooler are those that look like that). Buy, instead, a card from Gigabyte (which comes with the Windforce cooler), Gainward Phantom, or Asus's DirectCU II, I mean, something with a decent cooler. They're much better at their job (as I said, I have a Gigabyte 570 with a Windforce 3, never seen anything past 76°, and it's also slitghly overclocked), much less noisy, and way easier to clean (since you don't have to remove the plastic cover).
EVGA is a great brand, but since they're mostly intended for overclock, they just slap a reference cooler on the card, because they assume that you're going to use some kind of liquid cooling with it aniway.

Alright thanks for the help. Appreciate it. It did look like a pretty weird cooler to me, but I assumed it was ok. I never really bothered to check my GPU temps until now and every thing ran fine, but after a weird crash (related or not) I just wanted to make sure, and it's running way too high for my taste, specially now it's getting hot here.

What sucks with buying new graphic cards is, every time I do, a new better one comes out. So I'm never really sure when to buy. Specially now with DX12 coming up. Any suggestions on waiting or just buy because new stuff keeps coming out anyway?

 

[accx]

Alright thanks for the help. Appreciate it. It did look like a pretty weird cooler to me, but I assumed it was ok. I never really bothered to check my GPU temps until now and every thing ran fine, but after a weird crash (related or not) I just wanted to make sure, and it's running way too high for my taste, specially now it's getting hot here.

What sucks with buying new graphic cards is, every time I do, a new better one comes out. So I'm never really sure when to buy. Specially now with DX12 coming up. Any suggestions on waiting or just buy because new stuff keeps coming out anyway?

Buy if you need it. It's the golden rule of buying anything.
If you're satisfied with your card, opt for a cooler.
The "EKL Alpenföhn Peter 2" will probably be your best bet. Arctic Coolings installation is dreadful and have destroyed every single one of my cards, mostly within 6 months.

 

[Resilient]

Sounds like a faulty windows install, do a clean install.
Ideally you want to update firmware when you're running the OS on another drive. Install win on the hdd, update firmware, then format the ssd and do a clean install.

EDIT:
Oh, and activate AHCI in bios if you haven't already. Do this prior to the clean install. Do not activate it with an install you already have. It will not boot (BSOD)

Managed to fix it by just activating AHCI in the BIOS and changing my boot order. Boot order was set to DVD drive, HDD and then my printer 3rd. I haven't had a problem since and it boots faster than before.

Actually I lied...Malware bytes pro won't update or enable malicious website blocking. It presents me with SDK error 1812 or 2, and I haven't been able to fix it. I think this happened after I installed MSE.

Do you still think I should perform a clean install of Windows, even though I have had no other problems since ?

Also I managed to update the firmware to the latest after this (mu05 I think?)

 

[Menaged]

Try another TV. Or anything that's a pure HDMI source, no converters. If you're not seeing the issue then, then i would suggest fiddling around with the settings on the TV.

Forgot to mention that I did try it on a different TV, and had exactly the same issue - i.e even playing with the HDMI cable on the laptop end I managed to produce an image for a second or two.

 

[TronLight]

Alright thanks for the help. Appreciate it. It did look like a pretty weird cooler to me, but I assumed it was ok. I never really bothered to check my GPU temps until now and every thing ran fine, but after a weird crash (related or not) I just wanted to make sure, and it's running way too high for my taste, specially now it's getting hot here.

What sucks with buying new graphic cards is, every time I do, a new better one comes out. So I'm never really sure when to buy. Specially now with DX12 coming up. Any suggestions on waiting or just buy because new stuff keeps coming out anyway?

Yes, just buy. If you start thinking "Mmm, maybe I'll wait next year, for the newer cards" you'll end up never buying anything. Just buy something good, and you won't regret it.

Try asking here, I'm not really updated on dates and newer cards performances right now. I think the next nVidia series has recently been delayed to 2015? Not sure.
All I know is that I'm probably going to wait for 2015 to change my card anyway.

AFAIK, DX12 are supported from Fermi and on, so you'd be covered with anything you buy.

 

[accx]

Managed to fix it by just activating AHCI in the BIOS and changing my boot order. Boot order was set to DVD drive, HDD and then my printer 3rd. I haven't had a problem since and it boots faster than before.

Actually I lied...Malware bytes pro won't update or enable malicious website blocking. It presents me with SDK error 1812 or 2, and I haven't been able to fix it. I think this happened after I installed MSE.

Do you still think I should perform a clean install of Windows, even though I have had no other problems since ?

Also I managed to update the firmware to the latest after this (mu05 I think?)

Uninstall MSE, Malwarebytes and repair DirectX (not certain if this is needed).
https://forums.malwarebytes.org/index.php?showtopic=100876



I would do a clean install for peace of mind and potentially a performance boost but if you can't bother and are not having any severe issues then just leave it.
However, if problems start to arise you know where to look first.

Forgot to mention that I did try it on a different TV, and had exactly the same issue - i.e even playing with the HDMI cable on the laptop end I managed to produce an image for a second or two.

I was considering that it could be some weird issue with the drivers.. have you tried running a linux live distro just to see if there's the same issue with the connection?

Is the connection reported as working in windows/by your tv but not producing picture unless you fiddle with it?

It really does sound like a broken hdmi connector.

 

[accx]

Managed to fix it by just activating AHCI in the BIOS and changing my boot order. Boot order was set to DVD drive, HDD and then my printer 3rd. I haven't had a problem since and it boots faster than before.

Actually I lied...Malware bytes pro won't update or enable malicious website blocking. It presents me with SDK error 1812 or 2, and I haven't been able to fix it. I think this happened after I installed MSE.

Do you still think I should perform a clean install of Windows, even though I have had no other problems since ?

Also I managed to update the firmware to the latest after this (mu05 I think?)

Uninstall MSE, Malwarebytes and repair DirectX (not certain if this is needed). And then reinstall.
https://forums.malwarebytes.org/index.php?showtopic=103043
https://forums.malwarebytes.org/index.php?showtopic=144813
https://forums.malwarebytes.org/index.php?showtopic=86797

Post on that forum if you're still having issues, they seem to be happy to help.

I would do a clean install for peace of mind and potentially a performance boost but if you can't bother and are not having any severe issues then just leave it.
However, if problems start to arise you know where to look first.

Forgot to mention that I did try it on a different TV, and had exactly the same issue - i.e even playing with the HDMI cable on the laptop end I managed to produce an image for a second or two.

I was considering that it could be some weird issue with the drivers.. have you tried running a linux live distro just to see if there's the same issue with the connection?

Is the connection reported as working in windows/by your tv but not producing picture unless you fiddle with it?

It really does sound like a broken hdmi connector.

 

[JustinBB7]

Buy if you need it. It's the golden rule of buying anything.
If you're satisfied with your card, opt for a cooler.
The "EKL Alpenföhn Peter 2" will probably be your best bet. Arctic Coolings installation is dreadful and have destroyed every single one of my cards, mostly within 6 months.

Damn 6 months? I've had this card for years and it still works for some reason. I'm happy with the card but I recently upgraded my entire computer except the card but I want a new card to fit with it, really wanna play everything on the max, and with this card I usually have to turn at least one or two settings down a bit or off.

Yes, just buy. If you start thinking "Mmm, maybe I'll wait next year, for the newer cards" you'll end up never buying anything. Just buy something good, and you won't regret it.

Try asking here, I'm not really updated on dates and newer cards performances right now. I think the next nVidia series has recently been delayed to 2015? Not sure.
All I know is that I'm probably going to wait for 2015 to change my card anyway.

AFAIK, DX12 are supported from Fermi and on, so you'd be covered with anything you buy.

I might wait for 2015 since it's only another year, and I don't game that much in the summer anyway, but if this card dies I'll know what to get then. And not this cooler anymore for sure. Thanks again.

 

[CMDBob]

GAF, I have a super, super weird problem with my computer, and I need some advice. I have a wasp stuck in the front fans of my case (it's an old Antec 900 case) and I need a way to get it out (preferably dead) that'll both not damage my computer and not get me stung. It's a HUGE wasp as well, so yeah. (If this doesn't count as tech support I can understand, but it's in my PC so I'm classing it as such.)

 

[Menaged]

I was considering that it could be some weird issue with the drivers.. have you tried running a linux live distro just to see if there's the same issue with the connection?

Is the connection reported as working in windows/by your tv but not producing picture unless you fiddle with it?

It really does sound like a broken hdmi connector.

I have no idea what's a "linux live disto"...
If you think it might help, I'll read about it, and try.

It's working according to windows. When I plug the cable, the screen goes black, and to double check, I chose "computer only", and when I clicked on screen resolution from the desktop, it recognied that my TV is connected. So yeah, exactly as you described it.

I know it sounds exactly like it. That's why it was so weird that it was working with the VGA convertor...

 

[Resilient]

Uninstall MSE, Malwarebytes and repair DirectX (not certain if this is needed). And then reinstall.
https://forums.malwarebytes.org/index.php?showtopic=103043
https://forums.malwarebytes.org/index.php?showtopic=144813
https://forums.malwarebytes.org/index.php?showtopic=86797

Post on that forum if you're still having issues, they seem to be happy to help.

I would do a clean install for peace of mind and potentially a performance boost but if you can't bother and are not having any severe issues then just leave it.
However, if problems start to arise you know where to look first.

Man...you are way too kind and helpful!!

I knew these problems were just generated by me rushing the SSD install etc..it was frustrating and I knew they were just stupid tedious issues. Thanks for taking the time out to reply.

After researching the Malwarebytes forums, I found someone with the exact same issue that I had. It was unresolved. It stemmed from using mklink /j to junction my SSD (C) to my HDD (D) , which was completely pointless. I also changed the registry to reflect this. So, if anybody is google searching and finds this reply - DON'T SYMLINK or MKLINK or JUNCTION...it's just not necessary! And Malwarebytes won't like it either. It has to do with the database failing to be found.

Also, the SSD issue with booting was just plain silly. I didn't enable AHCI before I did a clean Windows 7 install.

Thanks again!!

 

[accx]

Damn 6 months? I've had this card for years and it still works for some reason. I'm happy with the card but I recently upgraded my entire computer except the card but I want a new card to fit with it, really wanna play everything on the max, and with this card I usually have to turn at least one or two settings down a bit or off.



I might wait for 2015 since it's only another year, and I don't game that much in the summer anyway, but if this card dies I'll know what to get then. And not this cooler anymore for sure. Thanks again.

What i meant was that the arctic cooling gpu cooler that i installed on three different graphics card destroyed the graphics card within 6 months. Because of their god awful installation process. That's why i was suggestion that other cooler.
It's really inexpensive and if you want your card to last longer, preferably when you feel comfortable upgrading, i would consider buying it. But it's your call. Your card might last forever, there's no way of knowing.

GAF, I have a super, super weird problem with my computer, and I need some advice. I have a wasp stuck in the front fans of my case (it's an old Antec 900 case) and I need a way to get it out (preferably dead) that'll both not damage my computer and not get me stung. It's a HUGE wasp as well, so yeah. (If this doesn't count as tech support I can understand, but it's in my PC so I'm classing it as such.)

turn off your computer and beat the shit out of it with a newspaper?
build a long ass 'poker' with sticks and a fork at the end of it.
Really, just go all macgyver.

I have no idea what's a "linux live disto"...
If you think it might help, I'll read about it, and try.

It's working according to windows. When I plug the cable, the screen goes black, and to double check, I chose "computer only", and when I clicked on screen resolution from the desktop, it recognied that my TV is connected. So yeah, exactly as you described it.

I know it sounds exactly like it. That's why it was so weird that it was working with the VGA convertor...

Do you have any other ports on your television, like VGA or DVI?
What you could do is connect it that way and if it works, connect the sound via the onboard soundcard instead of using HDMI. It's a shitty solution but eh.. at least it'll work.

What i was talking about was doing a linux live cd(usb stick) and boot to it instead of windows. Just to see if there's any drivers or something in windows that's messing up.

Man...you are way too kind and helpful!!

I knew these problems were just generated by me rushing the SSD install etc..it was frustrating and I knew they were just stupid tedious issues. Thanks for taking the time out to reply.

After researching the Malwarebytes forums, I found someone with the exact same issue that I had. It was unresolved. It stemmed from using mklink /j to junction my SSD (C) to my HDD (D) , which was completely pointless. I also changed the registry to reflect this. So, if anybody is google searching and finds this reply - DON'T SYMLINK or MKLINK or JUNCTION...it's just not necessary! And Malwarebytes won't like it either. It has to do with the database failing to be found.

Also, the SSD issue with booting was just plain silly. I didn't enable AHCI before I did a clean Windows 7 install.

Thanks again!!

Glad you got it sorted It sucks to do a full reformat but it's the first thing i ask for when a user have added any new kind of hardware. Graphics cards and the like are usually fine but migrating from hdd to ssd/hdd is usually just asking for trouble.

 

[thesaucetastic]

So I have a standard Dell Inspiron n5010 that's been giving me problems. It shuts down after about 30 seconds to a minute regardless of what's going on, like whether I'm attempting start up repair, checking the disk for consistency, on the log on screen, etc. Sometimes I'll be able to surf the internet for 5 minutes if it boots up fine and gets to desktop okay. It does this whether on battery or on the charger, and I even tried another fully functioning charger to check if this was a power issue. Needless to say, it still happened on the other one, so I figure it's a motherboard failure or something. At this point, I figure it'd be less expensive to just buy a new laptop. Anyone who can confirm my suspicions, or help me find a cost effective solution?

The laptop isn't even that old, it's from late 2011 or early 2012.

 

[bigboss370]

Use Windows USB Tool, create a bootable ISO (unless you have your windows disk available already)

Boot from that and do a full format. It's going to be easier to just start from scratch.

.

thank you for the help, i was able to get a clean install without any windows.old folders and whatnot. (i had the windows disk/CD)


now just have to install drivers correctly and in proper order

I have the Area-51 (thats the desktop i have) resource dvd but don't know how to go about installing drivers in the right order.

edit: think i got it

edit 2: aww yiss, everything has worked out!

 

[Menaged]

Do you have any other ports on your television, like VGA or DVI?
What you could do is connect it that way and if it works, connect the sound via the onboard soundcard instead of using HDMI. It's a shitty solution but eh.. at least it'll work.

What i was talking about was doing a linux live cd(usb stick) and boot to it instead of windows. Just to see if there's any drivers or something in windows that's messing up.

Yup, I have a VGA port, which I guess I'll have to use :\
Maybe I'll try the Linux thing just to be sure though.

Anyway, thanks a lot for your help