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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

I have what I think might be a simple question.

I have a dual monitor setup. Running out of my graphics card I have my monitor connected via DVI and a television connected via HDMI.

Is there a way I can get the sound that's meant to output to the TV (second monitor) to do so, instead of coming from my speakers that are plugged into the PC?

And have the stuff that's supposed to be on the main screen play from the PC speakers?
 

cory64

Member
Last night my PC started acting very strange and wouldn't download or install anything right and started giving strange write/permission errors and programs have trouble loading/saving config files.

I've done the following things:
Malwarebytes sweep
Disk error check (nothing)
System restore (failed)
SFC (couldn't run even in boot prompt)
Tried creating another admin account (couldn't log into that one)
System refresh (couldn't run)
 

_Ryo_

Member
I'm just going to assume this is the correct place for such a question.

1. Windows 8.
2. Logitech Dual Action GamePad
3. X360ce
4. Metro apps.

Is there any way to control metro games without a 360 controller? If so, where in the world do you place the x360ce exe, ini and dll file?
 

John Blade

Member
Need some help here guy with a old computer issue.

I just got a hand me down Dell Dimension 9200 from my brother. Right now, I am trying to do a test format to see if I can get it up and working as the last time it was operation was 2-3 years ago. Unfortunately, I having an issue where when I did complete install window 7 and it try to restart, it just go in this endless loop where the computer reboot, trying to start up Win 7 os, hang for few sec and reboot again. Also, when rebooting, the bios screen is peppered with various characters and different color, similar to the pic below.

3051.photo1.JPG


Do anybody know what is happening to the computer? I am guessing it might be a familiar issue but just want to know what to do to solve this issue and try to get this old desktop up and running.
 

BasicMath

Member
So my pc blew up. kinda. The problem is that I don't know what it was since I wasn't in the room when whatever got burnt burned. Furthermore, the damn thing still kept on running as if nothing happened.

Anyway, going by smell that was left over I singled out the graphics card as the culprit. Not to mentiond that the errors that occured afterward were gpu related (white/black screen freezes on hdmi/dvi displays).So I switched out the gpu (660ti) for an older one and the issues stopped for a day or two.

That's when one of my hdds (3-4 year old Samsung F3 1TB) began to drop out from bring recognized by the OS and just generally failing.

Failure is normal at that age but I'm starting to wonder if thr PSU(3 year old corsair Ax 750w) isn't murdering its companions at this point.


So my question is: how likely is it that the real culprit here is the PSU and how the do I check It?
 

davepoobond

you can't put a price on sparks
pretty much everyday i've gotten 1 blue screen during use (always during a game)

today, the shit hit the fan and the thing reset like 5 or 6 times, crashed with a blue screen each time -- once just restarted without one. the event viewer always has a "power loss" event, with little to no info. WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR is the thing that pops up on the blue screen.

i'm hoping its just an overclocking issue -- i somehow stumbled upon resetting the auto-overclocking settings in the ASUS suite thing by setting the RAM profile in the bios to XMP (never set it up like that to begin with, and when i was researching the RAM it said something about needing to do that, so i thought it could be an issue)

so i re-overclocked it and the top speed is about .2 ghz less than it used to be.

it doesn't appear to be overheating (it never goes about 40 degrees as far as i can tell), the game i'm playing works fine the initial couple of hours i am playing, and then i am typically hit with 1 blue screen at some point, but it doesn't happen again until the next day. today is the first day where blue screen came one after another after about 20-30 minutes from the last reboot.

i don't know what i'm really asking, but basically, how can i figure out what is going on with the computer? it seems to only have a problem in a high-performance environment, so i'm wary that it might be the GPU.
 
Got a sweet ass Lenovo with the windows and it's touchscreen. I'm not computer savvy as you can probably tell. But my question is how do I close the open windows? Obviously on pages you hit the "x" to close it but I mean how do you close the actual windows pages, they seem to stay open. ie. I'll be looking at my pictures, and then I'll go work on my essay, but if I hit the back button it'll go back to my pictures. How can I close things like that so I don't have the problem of going back to pages I thought were closed.
 

Rufus

Member
pretty much everyday i've gotten 1 blue screen during use (always during a game)

today, the shit hit the fan and the thing reset like 5 or 6 times, crashed with a blue screen each time -- once just restarted without one. the event viewer always has a "power loss" event, with little to no info. WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR is the thing that pops up on the blue screen.

i'm hoping its just an overclocking issue -- i somehow stumbled upon resetting the auto-overclocking settings in the ASUS suite thing by setting the RAM profile in the bios to XMP (never set it up like that to begin with, and when i was researching the RAM it said something about needing to do that, so i thought it could be an issue)

so i re-overclocked it and the top speed is about .2 ghz less than it used to be.

it doesn't appear to be overheating (it never goes about 40 degrees as far as i can tell), the game i'm playing works fine the initial couple of hours i am playing, and then i am typically hit with 1 blue screen at some point, but it doesn't happen again until the next day. today is the first day where blue screen came one after another after about 20-30 minutes from the last reboot.

i don't know what i'm really asking, but basically, how can i figure out what is going on with the computer? it seems to only have a problem in a high-performance environment, so i'm wary that it might be the GPU.
Do a CPU stress test with Prime95 first.
 

stormplyr

Member
Can anyone tell me as to how tough it is to get a acer aspire laptop open and clean out the fan? It constantly overheats without a cooling pad and generally gets too damn hot. I need this for school so I'd rather clean it out than have it blow up on me and need a new one. I've never took open a laptop before so I just wanted to know how labor intensive it is.
 

Witchfinder General

punched Wheelchair Mike
I never got a response to this when I posted it in the PC thread a few months back and I'm still having the same issue. I'd love some help as this is driving me insane:

"Every so often when playing PC games the sound will cut out and stay that way until I quit the game. When I do this sometimes the sound returns to normal sometimes it will sound distorted and occasionally send the sound to my rear speakers. Resetting my receiver sometimes fixes this, other times I need to restart my computer instead. Also, after restarting I can go for days even a whole week without encountering this problem but when it does happen nearly every time I load up a game it will rear its ugly head.

I've come to the conclusion that the PC is to fault. My reasoning for this is:

1) This only happens when I play PC games. Watching videos (youtube, Giant Bomb, Crunchyroll etc) or playing music (Foobar, Spotify) never causes this to happen. Ever.
1) When the sound cuts out and I switch over to another input (say my blu-ray player or PS4) I don't have any problems.
3) Changing HDMI cables (I'm a comfy-couch gamer) made no difference so it's not that.

I've updated everything on my PC thinking it might be a driver issue but that hasn't made any difference. It could be my GPU (GTX670) but I have the latest drivers and I'm pretty certain I started getting this problem before I updated the drivers."

One more thing I've noticed is that I never see this issue happening when I play games that aren't graphically intensive, ie. Spelunky, Risk of Rain, Legend of Dungeon, Diablo 3, etc.
 
Can anyone tell me as to how tough it is to get a acer aspire laptop open and clean out the fan? It constantly overheats without a cooling pad and generally gets too damn hot. I need this for school so I'd rather clean it out than have it blow up on me and need a new one. I've never took open a laptop before so I just wanted to know how labor intensive it is.

Which model is it?

Some (usually higher end models) have an easy to remove 1-piece back panel that reveals the entire innards of the laptop once you take off all the screws, including the important bits, like the CPU/GPU fans which you'd have to get access to in order to properly clean them out.

Others are a bit more difficult, only offering easy access to the RAM/HDD modules in seperate smallish back panels that you can unscrew, but not the CPU/GPU modules or the other critical portions of the motherboard. For these, you'll basically have to rip out the chassis screws as well, and it can get a bit messy to reassemble if you don't know what you're doing/don't have access to the service manual.

Either model would require a set of mini precision screwdrivers. These are what I've been using for years.
 

AxeMan

Member
So I have a standard Dell Inspiron n5010 that's been giving me problems........

The laptop isn't even that old, it's from late 2011 or early 2012.


Try to update it's drivers or uninstall and re-install the OS




I have what I think might be a simple question.......

I have a dual monitor setup. Running out of my graphics card I have my monitor connected via DVI and a television connected via HDMI.

Thats a good question but I don't think that it's possible. Happy to be corrected though


Last night my PC started acting very strange and wouldn't download or install anything right and started giving strange write/permission errors and programs have trouble loading/saving config files.....

Can you get into Safe Mode on the PC?

Do that and then run malwarebytes and check the startup programs


Need some help here guy with a old computer issue......

Do anybody know what is happening to the computer? I am guessing it might be a familiar issue but just want to know what to do to solve this issue and try to get this old desktop up and running.

Does this have more than 1 HDD? If so, remove one so only 1 is installed.

Try and install Windows then.

Could also update the BIOS and try again


So my pc blew up. kinda. The problem is that I don't know what it was since I wasn't in the room when whatever got burnt burned. Furthermore, the damn thing still kept on running as if nothing happened......

So my question is: how likely is it that the real culprit here is the PSU and how the do I check It?

Only real way to test is to put a known ok PSU in and test

Got a sweet ass Lenovo with the windows and it's touchscreen. I'm not computer savvy as you can probably tell. But my question is how do I close the open windows? .....

I'm not following this, can you explain again?

I never got a response to this when I posted it in the PC thread a few months back and I'm still having the same issue. I'd love some help as this is driving me insane:................

Have you updated your drivers? Audio and Chipset are the two I'd be looking at
 

cory64

Member
Can you get into Safe Mode on the PC?

Do that and then run malwarebytes and check the startup programs

Found an extra bug but otherwise everything's still messed up.
I found that Windows says some of my files are corrupted, but chkdsk and SMART don't show anything.
 

AxeMan

Member
Found an extra bug but otherwise everything's still messed up.
I found that Windows says some of my files are corrupted, but chkdsk and SMART don't show anything.

Can you access your registry?

Look in HKM\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
and
Look in HKM\Software\Wow6432Node\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run


What is listed in there?


I'm running it into this:

Marantz AV8801

I don't have another TV/monitor to try.

Can you bypass the receiver and go directly to the screen?
 

cory64

Member
Can you access your registry?

Look in HKM\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
and
Look in HKM\Software\Wow6432Node\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run


What is listed in there?

(Default)
Cmaudio8788
IntelliPoint
NvBackend
ShadowPlay

and

(Default)
iTunesHelper

edit: everything's back to normal after Windows decided to do a disk repair on reboot (don't know why it didn't on previous reboots)
 

Ermac

Proudly debt free. If you need a couple bucks, just ask.
I can't see twitter images on Neogaf. I have AdBlock disabled. I think it's one of my other extensions. If I quote a person I can see the link to the image, but nothing shows up in their post.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

Temidien

Neo Member
Hey guys,

So this weekend I plan on backing up my files from my HDD, installing a SSD, installing Windows 8 on the SSD, installing a new HDD (for supplemental storage as the SSD is limited), and migrating files from the old HDD to new HDD.

Here's the new HDD I purchased: Amazon link. It's a WD Red 3TB NAS HDD. Since I won't be using it as a NAS drive, I've read that it's discouraged to use this drive as a stand-alone in a PC due to how the read-write error correction is formatted out of the box.

Via Wiki I've discovered that at one time WD put out a utility allowing this error correction setting to be re-formatted to something more friendly for stand-alone applications, but that it is not offered on newer drives (like mine). It states that Green/Caviar drive should be used in stand-alone applications and Reds should be used for RAID.

I was really hoping to work on this project tomorrow when I have time and to not have to wait another week for Amazon to ship me a new drive. Is there anything I can do to get the drive in the format I need it or should I cut my losses and replace it? I've already checked and no brick-and-mortar stores around carry the drive I'd be replacing it with.
 
I can't see twitter images on Neogaf. I have AdBlock disabled. I think it's one of my other extensions. If I quote a person I can see the link to the image, but nothing shows up in their post.

Anyone have any ideas?

How many extensions are you running? I would start disabling them one by one and see if you can find the culprit by process of elimination.
 

RoboPlato

I'd be in the dick
I finally upgraded my 2007 Macbook to snow leopard from leopard, update everything, and now flash crashes every single time it's used. Any way to get an older version of flash and see if that works? Not even Youtube works anymore.

EDIT: Changed browsers and that works
 

Ermac

Proudly debt free. If you need a couple bucks, just ask.
How many extensions are you running? I would start disabling them one by one and see if you can find the culprit by process of elimination.

Ah thank you. It was Disconnect. I whitelisted Gaf and it works now.
 

Megasoum

Banned
So I'm thinking about buying a new Motherboard/CPU/Ram upgrade for my pc. I was wondering, how's modern windows (8.1 in my case) handle changing so much hardware? I remember that, last time I was in that kind of situation, windows 98 wouldn't really work without re-installing after changing so much stuff.

How's Win 8.1 working in that kind of situation? I formated to install Win 8.1 like 2 months ago and I don't really feel like re-installing everything again.
 

Izayoi

Banned
I just got a computer that has full-disk encryption (long story short, where I work has a lost-and-found, if anything sits there for longer than a year it's given away to employees). It's Check Point Endpoint Security. Should I even bother with trying to crack the password (I was looking at Elcomsoft Password Recovery), or would I be better off just nuking the HDD and starting over with a fresh copy of Windows?
 
I just got a computer that has full-disk encryption (long story short, where I work has a lost-and-found, if anything sits there for longer than a year it's given away to employees). It's Check Point Endpoint Security. Should I even bother with trying to crack the password (I was looking at Elcomsoft Password Recovery), or would I be better off just nuking the HDD and starting over with a fresh copy of Windows?
I'd say nuke it.
 

accx

Member
So I'm thinking about buying a new Motherboard/CPU/Ram upgrade for my pc. I was wondering, how's modern windows (8.1 in my case) handle changing so much hardware? I remember that, last time I was in that kind of situation, windows 98 wouldn't really work without re-installing after changing so much stuff.

How's Win 8.1 working in that kind of situation? I formated to install Win 8.1 like 2 months ago and I don't really feel like re-installing everything again.

Not at all. You'll have to reformat.
Well you might be able to boot but you're gonna have a shitload of problems. Better to reformat.

Hey guys,

So this weekend I plan on backing up my files from my HDD, installing a SSD, installing Windows 8 on the SSD, installing a new HDD (for supplemental storage as the SSD is limited), and migrating files from the old HDD to new HDD.

Here's the new HDD I purchased: Amazon link. It's a WD Red 3TB NAS HDD. Since I won't be using it as a NAS drive, I've read that it's discouraged to use this drive as a stand-alone in a PC due to how the read-write error correction is formatted out of the box.

Via Wiki I've discovered that at one time WD put out a utility allowing this error correction setting to be re-formatted to something more friendly for stand-alone applications, but that it is not offered on newer drives (like mine). It states that Green/Caviar drive should be used in stand-alone applications and Reds should be used for RAID.

I was really hoping to work on this project tomorrow when I have time and to not have to wait another week for Amazon to ship me a new drive. Is there anything I can do to get the drive in the format I need it or should I cut my losses and replace it? I've already checked and no brick-and-mortar stores around carry the drive I'd be replacing it with.

I don't see why that hdd wouldn't work in a desktop. If you're scared of using it because of what you've read (you didn't link it and i couldn't find what you're talking about), then i'd just replace it with something you feel comfortable using.
But i see no reason tbh.

One of my hard drives isn't being recognized in windows but is in the bios and device manager. I want to pull some data off the drive if possible.

Help me GAF

check disk management, it might be formatted in a file system that windows can't handle.
try other sata ports.
if all else fails, create a linux boot stick and see if you can access it through there. Ubuntu is fine.


Got a sweet ass Lenovo with the windows and it's touchscreen. I'm not computer savvy as you can probably tell. But my question is how do I close the open windows? Obviously on pages you hit the "x" to close it but I mean how do you close the actual windows pages, they seem to stay open. ie. I'll be looking at my pictures, and then I'll go work on my essay, but if I hit the back button it'll go back to my pictures. How can I close things like that so I don't have the problem of going back to pages I thought were closed.
Alt+F4, i guess? They will be introducing the close button for windows store application with the new update, which is soon about to land i believe.

pretty much everyday i've gotten 1 blue screen during use (always during a game)

today, the shit hit the fan and the thing reset like 5 or 6 times, crashed with a blue screen each time -- once just restarted without one. the event viewer always has a "power loss" event, with little to no info. WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR is the thing that pops up on the blue screen.

i'm hoping its just an overclocking issue -- i somehow stumbled upon resetting the auto-overclocking settings in the ASUS suite thing by setting the RAM profile in the bios to XMP (never set it up like that to begin with, and when i was researching the RAM it said something about needing to do that, so i thought it could be an issue)

so i re-overclocked it and the top speed is about .2 ghz less than it used to be.

it doesn't appear to be overheating (it never goes about 40 degrees as far as i can tell), the game i'm playing works fine the initial couple of hours i am playing, and then i am typically hit with 1 blue screen at some point, but it doesn't happen again until the next day. today is the first day where blue screen came one after another after about 20-30 minutes from the last reboot.

i don't know what i'm really asking, but basically, how can i figure out what is going on with the computer? it seems to only have a problem in a high-performance environment, so i'm wary that it might be the GPU.

Remove your overclock and check your stability. Also run Prime95 as another user suggested when overclocked. Sounds to me that you don't have a stable OC rather than the GPU.

You could also test RAM with memtest to rule them out.

If it was a problem with the gpu it could either be driver related but if it was hardware related you'd likely see artifacts before any bsod would appear.


So my pc blew up. kinda. The problem is that I don't know what it was since I wasn't in the room when whatever got burnt burned. Furthermore, the damn thing still kept on running as if nothing happened.

Anyway, going by smell that was left over I singled out the graphics card as the culprit. Not to mentiond that the errors that occured afterward were gpu related (white/black screen freezes on hdmi/dvi displays).So I switched out the gpu (660ti) for an older one and the issues stopped for a day or two.

That's when one of my hdds (3-4 year old Samsung F3 1TB) began to drop out from bring recognized by the OS and just generally failing.

Failure is normal at that age but I'm starting to wonder if thr PSU(3 year old corsair Ax 750w) isn't murdering its companions at this point.


So my question is: how likely is it that the real culprit here is the PSU and how the do I check It?

Very likely, but it's also likely it could be your motherboard. You'll need a known working PSU to test it out.
You should also backup everything important because it sounds like your drive might also be about to die.
And no, 3-4 years isn't common drive failure. I've got drives that's been running 24/7 for 10 years now.

I have what I think might be a simple question.

I have a dual monitor setup. Running out of my graphics card I have my monitor connected via DVI and a television connected via HDMI.

Is there a way I can get the sound that's meant to output to the TV (second monitor) to do so, instead of coming from my speakers that are plugged into the PC?

And have the stuff that's supposed to be on the main screen play from the PC speakers?

Yes, some games and applications have support to change your source, look into that.
For example, if you wanna run a movie on your tv while still wanting to hear your in-game sounds you should be able to set the audio source for the tv in your preferred media player.
 

davepoobond

you can't put a price on sparks
Remove your overclock and check your stability. Also run Prime95 as another user suggested when overclocked. Sounds to me that you don't have a stable OC rather than the GPU.

You could also test RAM with memtest to rule them out.

If it was a problem with the gpu it could either be driver related but if it was hardware related you'd likely see artifacts before any bsod would appear.


it looks like it was definitely the overclocking. i think it was asking for more power than it was getting. Since i reset the overclocking settings last week, I haven't had any issues.

Thanks for the help to you and Rufus. I'll keep it in mind if those things start happening again.
 

BIGWORM

Member
X-post from the PC parts thread:

I'd like some opinions in here regarding Haswell. My 4670k, like a lot of others, run pretty warm when even moderately overclocking @ 4.2. From reading up, the higher temps are due to Intel incorporating a crappy TIM under their IHS, so I'm thinking of delidding my 4670k and re-applying some aftermarket TIM. Thing is, I've never done something as delicate as that. Hell, knowing I just paid $250+ for my processor, I baby it to the max before I clamp it down.

An idea of my load temps: I've literally seen my processor hit TJMax while in pass 8/10 in LinX. This is @ 4.2 on 1.2v. I'm also using an closed loop H70 with AS5 TIM. I don't remember what my VID is. I know my voltage is good for the OC, and that I shouldn't really weigh-in synthetic load as much, but I'm still worried. I had my processor at 4.4 with 1.23v, but I lost the settings when I upgraded the BIOS. Seems like 4.5 won't be worth because I'm thinking I'm having to dump 1.3v on the processor, and with my LinX load temps where they're at right now, I'm looking to delid first before I do that.

I have no idea what this post just turned into. =/
 

accx

Member
X-post from the PC parts thread:

I'd like some opinions in here regarding Haswell. My 4670k, like a lot of others, run pretty warm when even moderately overclocking @ 4.2. From reading up, the higher temps are due to Intel incorporating a crappy TIM under their IHS, so I'm thinking of delidding my 4670k and re-applying some aftermarket TIM. Thing is, I've never done something as delicate as that. Hell, knowing I just paid $250+ for my processor, I baby it to the max before I clamp it down.

An idea of my load temps: I've literally seen my processor hit TJMax while in pass 8/10 in LinX. This is @ 4.2 on 1.2v. I'm also using an closed loop H70 with AS5 TIM. I don't remember what my VID is. I know my voltage is good for the OC, and that I shouldn't really weigh-in synthetic load as much, but I'm still worried. I had my processor at 4.4 with 1.23v, but I lost the settings when I upgraded the BIOS. Seems like 4.5 won't be worth because I'm thinking I'm having to dump 1.3v on the processor, and with my LinX load temps where they're at right now, I'm looking to delid first before I do that.

I have no idea what this post just turned into. =/

What's much more important is to check your temps when gaming/doing cpu intensive related tasks. Don't bother with temperatures in synthetic benches, they are only useful for stability testing.
You didn't post your temperatures though, TJMax says nothing.
So, you have 4 options;
1. Stay with your current OC, monitor it during cpu intensive tasks.
2. Remove the OC completely/drop it down if you think it's getting too hot.
3. Get another cooler, although i'm suspecting there would be some diminishing returns. Those single 120mm radiator closed water coolers aren't great though.
4. delid. Personally, i wouldn't do it, but that's mainly because i just know i'm gonna screw up.
Here's a great thread regarding delidding.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club-guide
 

Sun Drugs

Member
I am having a very odd problem with Google using Chrome. Not sure if this is the correct thread, but hopefully someone can help. Everytime I search for something on Google (in Chrome), it autofills the google search bar with a specific search term I used weeks ago.

For example, I typed "Norton Ghost" in the URL bar (not sure what it is actually called), pressed enter, and the results came up. WIthin 2 seconds though, the search term is replaced by "password protected sharing set password" and it searches for that term, as if I had entered it in. If I turn off autocomplete, it still enters the term but does not search for it. This is happening across computers on Chrome even if I am not logged into Google. It works fine on Firefox.

It does the same thing if I go to www.google.com instead of using the URL bar.

I hope I explained myself clearly. Does anyone know what is going on?
 

AxeMan

Member
(Default)
Cmaudio8788
IntelliPoint
NvBackend
ShadowPlay

and

(Default)
iTunesHelper

edit: everything's back to normal after Windows decided to do a disk repair on reboot (don't know why it didn't on previous reboots)

Good to hear.
I was about to reply that I have no idea what to look at next so I'm glad it's sorted out for you
 
Hi I am having problems updating my laptop. Every time I updated and try to restart my laptop after 30% it said that it failed to update and then reverts back. what is the problem, and how can I solve it? Thanks.
 

BraXzy

Member
Right this is doing my head in.

Every few weeks, my computer either blue screens or just refuses to turn on. I think both at the same time. It blue screened yesterday and then worked fine, this morning it was OK, now this evening it won't turn on.

It's a custom home built PC so I worry about it, my buddy has the exact same machine and hasn't had any issues. I feel like I should just take it to a repair shop but the fact it picks and chooses when its faulty makes it kinda tricky. What should I do?
 

Uriah

Member
I just updated windows and whenever I try to boot in I get the error message "reboot and select proper boot device". Any help would be appreciated. Running windows 8.1 BTW.
 

Ashhong

Member
Hey guys I have a flash drive that was working fine, put a file on it from a Mac, then plugged it into a PC and it doesn't show anymore. I can only see it in disk management and it says that it is not partitioned. Can I recover the files or should I just reformat?

A relative removed the drive from the Mac without ejecting because it said "eject failed". Is that probably the reason for this?
 

Rufus

Member
Sounds like it could be corrupted. Why did the eject fail? If something was being written to it at the time, then, yeah...
 

Ashhong

Member
Sounds like it could be corrupted. Why did the eject fail? If something was being written to it at the time, then, yeah...

No clue. I've noticed sometimes they just refuse to eject even when nothing is copying (from what I can see). It was a small file that should have taken only 1 second to transfer though
 
my iPhone finally stopped working today, its old so its fine. So I need a new phone but there are certain things my new phone must have. so PLEASE throw some ideas out because I need a new phone today

1) can see gifs(a lot of phones cant)
2) good battery life
3) nice screen but not massive
4) fair amount of storage space
5) reasonable app store
6) preferably not an iPhone

my carrier is AT&T
 

Rufus

Member
No clue. I've noticed sometimes they just refuse to eject even when nothing is copying (from what I can see). It was a small file that should have taken only 1 second to transfer though
Some programs create hidden temp files if you still have the file open, though they would be tiny as well... Hm. Dunno. The previous errors could have been an indication of some other problem with the drive itself, but I'm out of my depth there.

No LED on it that indicates activity, I assume?
 

phalestine

aka iby.h
my iPhone finally stopped working today, its old so its fine. So I need a new phone but there are certain things my new phone must have. so PLEASE throw some ideas out because I need a new phone today

1) can see gifs(a lot of phones cant)
2) good battery life
3) nice screen but not massive
4) fair amount of storage space
5) reasonable app store
6) preferably not an iphone
you might want to mention your carrier.
 

Gazunta

Member
heya guys and gals -

I'm rebuilding my MAME cabinet and was donated an old work PC for the task. It's a couple of years old and was running Windows 7 Professional, nothing great but it'll run Street Fighter Alpha 2 just fine so what else could I want :)

However - since it's an old work machine, there's a login screen at the start that I need to type in a password to get through to the desktop. Not exactly what you want to see on a MAME cabinet.

I have the password so I can manually type it in and get to the desktop and from there run MAME, but what I want to know is - is there a way I can remove the requirement for the password to be entered?

The password I have is for the user account, not the administrator account.

Any ideas folks? Thanks!
 
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