I looked up the brand of the motherboard, and it doens't look like a good one. I'd change it.
Seriously, why did you go with such a low class motherboard with all that good hardware? :lol
Throw it out the window, buy a decent one, IMO.
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
I looked up the brand of the motherboard, and it doens't look like a good one. I'd change it.
Seriously, why did you go with such a low class motherboard with all that good hardware? :lol
Throw it out the window, buy a decent one, IMO.
I originally had a high-end Gigabyte that I paid $240 for that kicked the bucket, and I had numerous problems with before that. I didn't want to pay that again. This biostar TZ77A has everything I need, and it was recommended to me in the "I need a new PC thread". It's been fine until this happened.
You don't have to pay 250$ for a motherboard (if you don't want to overclock), but that doesn't mean you should buy the lowest common denominator. Great brands do have affordable products too.
I understand. I just don't think it matters, either the product works well or it doesn't. Brands are meaningless if they still fail, so I would rather pay a lesser amount for everything I need.
But, if you have any recommendations, I'm all ears. 2 of the brands recommended on the OP in the PC thread have already failed me.
I built it myself from parts bought from Scan.co.uk and Amazon. I'll have a look at the MoBo's site and see.. I have a feeling it is the PSU but I don't have a clue.
Here's my entire build:
Case: Silverstone Precision PS06B-W
CPU: Intel i7 3770K
RAM: 8GB (2x4GB) Corsair DDR3 Vengeance
Disc Drive: LG 10x Blu-ray Reader, 16x DVD±R, 8
GPU: 2GB Gigabyte GTX 670 Windforce 2X
MoBo: Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H, Intel Z77, S 1
PSU: 650W NZXT Hale82 Modular 80+ Bronze
CPU Cooler: NZXT Havik 140 CPU Cooler 6 Heat Pi
HDD: 2TB Seagate ST2000DM001 Barracuda 7
SSD (OS): 128GB Samsung 830 Series, SSD Basic
Weirdness going on, I just upgraded my router from a basic Linksys G router to a basic Linksys N router, and now phones that connect are downloading at a snails pace.
I'm not sure what the download was before(faster than this I know), but on my new wireless-N router I'm getting about 1mbps down and 8-9mbps up (wtf). On my laptops I get about 20 down and 7 up.
I tried:
-factory reset(30-30-30)
-changing encryption from TKIP/AES to AES (both on WPA2)
-changing to N-only mode
-setting channel to least congested(I live in an apartment building)
-trying wide band (40mhz)
So yeah I'm lost.
I'm not sure what the download was before(faster than this I know), but on my new wireless-N router I'm getting about 1mbps down and 8-9mbps up (wtf). On my laptops I get about 20 down and 7 up.
I tried:
-factory reset(30-30-30)
-changing encryption from TKIP/AES to AES (both on WPA2)
-changing to N-only mode
-setting channel to least congested(I live in an apartment building)
-trying wide band (40mhz)
So yeah I'm lost.
Got a hold of another mobo I could try out and it's still freezing. SSD? I don't know any more.
I am having some issues with Spotify on my desktop. It refuses to connect on the desktop, it doesn't see an internet connection or thinks a firewall could be in the way. It was working fine last night. I tried disabling the whole firewall just to see if it is blocking anything, it isn't, tried reinstalling spotify, restarting PC, the usual stuff. The web player just say connecting constantly too. It works on my laptop which is on the same network and so am thinking it is not an issue at their end, but something is going on with my desktop. Where do I go from here?
xaosslug
Member
i'm able to do a clean install of Windows. Do I delete all the old partitions and stuff?
I found this guide, and it says to, but I'm still kind of worried. LOL
whoop! Replaced the ram, and now I'm able to clean install Windows!
I found this guide, and it says to, but I'm still kind of worried. LOL
whoop! Replaced the ram, and now I'm able to clean install Windows!
highoffcoffee496
Member
If someone could help me I would really appreciate it...
My internet keeps cutting out. Like, I will be on the internet and there will be connections available, but suddenly it just cuts and says there are no connections available. Restarting the computer fixes this but it's impacting my schoolwork and gaming now. For example: taking an online quiz and suddenly losing internet connection is NOT a good combination <_<
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Let me know if a clearer explanation is needed I'll try my best!
My internet keeps cutting out. Like, I will be on the internet and there will be connections available, but suddenly it just cuts and says there are no connections available. Restarting the computer fixes this but it's impacting my schoolwork and gaming now. For example: taking an online quiz and suddenly losing internet connection is NOT a good combination <_<
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Let me know if a clearer explanation is needed I'll try my best!
It sounds like it could a setting in the sound options. have a look there.
Have you tried different software? microphone boost? "Allow applications to take exclusive control over this device"?
Tried them in another computer so you're sure it's not hardware related.
I see
I did a quick google search and couldn't find anything. I'm sure it's doable but i suppose someone has to make the software first. I would find a place where developers meet and pitch the idea. I even think there's a programming thread hear on gaf and someone might wanna get in on it.
I mean WakeOnLan has been around since forever so this wouldn't be too hard to implement.
Did you try any of the other things i suggested?
Do that before going out and buying a new power supply.
If you have a friend willing to lend you his power supply that might be an option.
Disconnecting stuff you don't need atm would also be a way to troubleshoot, starting with the blu-ray drive, extra harddrives, fans.. and so on.
i'm able to do a clean install of Windows. Do I delete all the old partitions and stuff?
I found this guide, and it says to, but I'm still kind of worried. LOL
whoop! Replaced the ram, and now I'm able to clean install Windows!
Yes. You should remove everything and reinstall from scratch
Glad we got it working in the end!
Maybe, have you checked for BIOS updates?
Faulty windows installation?
Memtest for at least an hour but preferably 8.
You've used the correct stand offs for the motherboard, correct?
Viruses?
Re-seating everything, including wires.
Just booting with the essentials. cpu,ram,gpu,ssd.
Did you perhaps migrate an old windows installation from an hdd to the ssd? Try a clean installation.
Drivers? Again, a clean installation and just the essentials, meaning you only really need chipset drivers and gpu drivers. Drivers for audio and other things are not necessary.
You had updated the firmware on the SSD, right?
Can't think of anything else but i hope it helped..
http://community.spotify.com/t5/Newcomers-and-Contribution/Troubleshooting-connection-issues/td-p/104003
Add rules to the windows firewall by going into "Windows Firewall" and then Inbound/Outbound Rules.
Don't use any other software firewall, it's redundant.
forknknife
Banned
Hi guys, hope you can help me. My macbook air has been getting slower and slower and is battery is just abysmal, like one hour and a half bad. Is there a possibility to upgrade the ram or the battery? It's the 2011 model, the one with the non-lit keyboard. Thanks.
A quick google says no. You might be able to ask at a mac store for it but i'm guessing it'll be expensive. RAM is soldered on.
Try using an earlier version of mac osx perhaps for the slowdown? Also a tuneup in form of a format and reinstallation might help some.
As for the battery life you're SOL. try turning the brightness down all the way to mitigate it somewhat.
notoriousKTR
Member
Memory cannot be upgraded but the battery can be replaced. Cost about $130 at the Apple Store.
DIY guide: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Air+11-Inch+Mid+2011+Battery+Replacement/6306
xaosslug
Member
ok, everyone! I've installed all drivers (as far as I'm aware...) and Windows is up to date.
but in the windows notification/message thing it keeps saying: unknown device Acpi/VPC2004
i've looked around online and installing the Lenovo Energy Management Driver is supposed to stop this... but it hasn't stopped. WTF?
but in the windows notification/message thing it keeps saying: unknown device Acpi/VPC2004
i've looked around online and installing the Lenovo Energy Management Driver is supposed to stop this... but it hasn't stopped. WTF?
VindictiveGnome
Member
I woke up to do some editing this morning, I hit the power button on my desktop and it came on for about 1-2 seconds before all the power in my room went out. I reset the breaker and now my desktop will not start. I'm thinking it's the PSU. I tried the paper clip test (hopefully correctly) and the one fan plugged in didn't start spinning, neither did the PSU fan. I'm hoping with all my heart and soul that the motherboard isn't fried as well.
Current PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series TX850M 850W
I'm going to call tech support when they open and try to get them to replace it since I have a 5 year warranty on it. I'm in the middle of an animation for a client and so I really need the PSU overnighted. I highly doubt Corsair will do this so I'm prepared to spend $177 to overnight this new PSU.
Questions: is that new PSU I'm possibly buying going to work? Is there a way to test my motherboard with a multimeter?
Other specs if you need them:
ASUS Sabertooth 990fx
FX-4100 OC @4.3GHz
Nvidia 770
500gb HDD, 128gb SSD, 64gb SSD
Windows 8.1
8gb DDR3 RAM
Current PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series TX850M 850W
I'm going to call tech support when they open and try to get them to replace it since I have a 5 year warranty on it. I'm in the middle of an animation for a client and so I really need the PSU overnighted. I highly doubt Corsair will do this so I'm prepared to spend $177 to overnight this new PSU.
Questions: is that new PSU I'm possibly buying going to work? Is there a way to test my motherboard with a multimeter?
Other specs if you need them:
ASUS Sabertooth 990fx
FX-4100 OC @4.3GHz
Nvidia 770
500gb HDD, 128gb SSD, 64gb SSD
Windows 8.1
8gb DDR3 RAM
ok, everyone! I've installed all drivers (as far as I'm aware...) and Windows is up to date.
but in the windows notification/message thing it keeps saying: unknown device Acpi/VPC2004
i've looked around online and installing the Lenovo Energy Management Driver is supposed to stop this... but it hasn't stopped. WTF?
Honestly, it's nothing to worry about unless you're having problems with battery life. I believe the power management in windows will take care of it anyhow without the driver.
Either way, you should be able to turn off the annoying notification through the action center, although i believe you're running windows 8 now? I'm not sure if the action center is still a thing since i'm still mainly on windows 7.
If it's there, have a look in the control panel. Windows button + control panel should bring it up.
I would suggest bringing the issue to the official lenovo forum. Maybe there's a beta driver that will fix it for you that they have not yet made available.
Otherwise, as i said, it's free to ignore if you don't have any issues with battery life.
Maybe, there's no telling if anything else is damaged before you try out another PSU i'm afraid.
If there's a deadline on your work i would consider asking friends to see if you can remove the hdd, put it in another computer to get the data off and do the work there. Or if someone can borrow you a laptop for like a day or so.
Casanova
Member
I got a broken Macbook Pro Mid-2010 15-inch from a rich friend who didn't want to repair it...
I boot up the Mac and a plain gray screen pops up with an image of a folder and a question mark inside the folder. After looking that up, I was told to launch disk utility to determine if I would be able to recover using any backups stored on the drive, but of course, there wasn't any. I navigated around disk utility and found only two drives: One was Just "disk0" and had like 2GB of memory on it, not sure what that was... and there was another drive called "Mac Os X Base system" with just a few GB capacity on it as well - I'm guessing both are some type of non-removable storage that came with the computer. I took off the case and there was a 500GB hard drive but it was not showing up in disk utility, which made me basically confirm that it is a bad hard drive.. am I right to assume that?
Also, when I took off the Sata cables I pulled a bit too hard and it tore just a little bit about half way up the cord where it was adhered onto the case. Is it safe to assume that I should just go ahead and but a replacement hard drive cable as well?
One more thing, I will have to purchase a version of Mac operating system to install to the new Hard Drive. What is the cheapest method of purchasing it? I've heard something about Reddit, but I can't remember.
Thanks for your help.
I boot up the Mac and a plain gray screen pops up with an image of a folder and a question mark inside the folder. After looking that up, I was told to launch disk utility to determine if I would be able to recover using any backups stored on the drive, but of course, there wasn't any. I navigated around disk utility and found only two drives: One was Just "disk0" and had like 2GB of memory on it, not sure what that was... and there was another drive called "Mac Os X Base system" with just a few GB capacity on it as well - I'm guessing both are some type of non-removable storage that came with the computer. I took off the case and there was a 500GB hard drive but it was not showing up in disk utility, which made me basically confirm that it is a bad hard drive.. am I right to assume that?
Also, when I took off the Sata cables I pulled a bit too hard and it tore just a little bit about half way up the cord where it was adhered onto the case. Is it safe to assume that I should just go ahead and but a replacement hard drive cable as well?
One more thing, I will have to purchase a version of Mac operating system to install to the new Hard Drive. What is the cheapest method of purchasing it? I've heard something about Reddit, but I can't remember.
Thanks for your help.
I knew about the PS3, but I thought it's because the PS3 has HDCP on its own?!
Dumb question: Since when does the Xbox 360 have HDCP and why does it work without a splitter with other capture cards? I'm confused.
Thanks for your answer, btw.
xaosslug
Member
thanks again, accx!
bold: about that... I wasn't able to install win8.1 because secure boot isn't compatible with my pc. ;__; Something about having the wrong firmware? Any idea how to fix this?
xaosslug
Member
oh, no. Shit's going down again! I just had a BSOD. >_<
here' the DMP file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vv9d74hmuamsn90/dmp.zip
any halp from you knowledgeable fellows would be greatly appreciated!
OK, someone on MS' support forums said I should do these:
1. Ensure your SSD is 100% up to date. - how do I do that?
2. Ensure your BIOS is up to date. - I'm pretty sure I have the latest BiOS
3. Ensure your USB drivers are up to date via Lenovo's website - did that
so, now what?
here' the DMP file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vv9d74hmuamsn90/dmp.zip
any halp from you knowledgeable fellows would be greatly appreciated!
OK, someone on MS' support forums said I should do these:
1. Ensure your SSD is 100% up to date. - how do I do that?
2. Ensure your BIOS is up to date. - I'm pretty sure I have the latest BiOS
3. Ensure your USB drivers are up to date via Lenovo's website - did that
so, now what?
More_Badass
Member
My laptop started making weird noises
Here's a Google drive file of the sound:
Computer noises
The best solution is probably for me to just get a new laptop, it's on its last leg anyway. Like I need to keep it plugged in because it'll turn off in about 10 minutes on battery. But that's not going to happen soon and I need to make my laptop last for at least another month and finish my semester.
So:
1) What is the likely issue?
2) Any easy solutions?
Here's a Google drive file of the sound:
Computer noises
The best solution is probably for me to just get a new laptop, it's on its last leg anyway. Like I need to keep it plugged in because it'll turn off in about 10 minutes on battery. But that's not going to happen soon and I need to make my laptop last for at least another month and finish my semester.
So:
1) What is the likely issue?
2) Any easy solutions?
oh, no. Shit's going down again! I just had a BSOD. >_<
here' the DMP file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vv9d74hmuamsn90/dmp.zip
any halp from you knowledgeable fellows would be greatly appreciated!
OK, someone on MS' support forums said I should do these:
1. Ensure your SSD is 100% up to date. - how do I do that?
2. Ensure your BIOS is up to date. - I'm pretty sure I have the latest BiOS
3. Ensure your USB drivers are up to date via Lenovo's website - did that
so, now what?
Took a look at your dmp,
Code:
BUGCODE_USB_DRIVER
Code:
0x000000fenotoriousKTR
Member
There is only three moving parts in a typical laptop: hard drive, optical drive, and fan(s).
I can't tell which one if failing from the audio clip.
So the current rig I'm using is something I would like to give to my parents because their pc is terribly slow. The downside is recently I have started getting blue screens while trying to put the computer to sleep. It always successfully recovers and goes back to login screen though.
Checked Event Viewer and such it is listed as:
Event ID: 41
Source: Kernel Power
Has happened three times in past week.
My question Neogaf, is how do I identify what is causing these bluescreens, weather it is failing hardware or buggy software. And what steps do I take to fix the issue.
Checked Event Viewer and such it is listed as:
Event ID: 41
Source: Kernel Power
Has happened three times in past week.
My question Neogaf, is how do I identify what is causing these bluescreens, weather it is failing hardware or buggy software. And what steps do I take to fix the issue.
xaosslug
Member
hey!
that's what the MS support forum guy said, but I don't have any USB devices. It's a lenovo ultrabook.
i noticed that the BSOD happens when I reopen the screen (I keep it all usually all day, and have it set to 'do nothing' when the lid is closed), so I tried this and I'm seeing if it has any effect. LOL I have no idea what if any difference it will make. >_<
It sounds like a boat!
It's the fan and you can't really do anything besides cleaning it out and hope for the best.
some people grease their fans when they are on their last legs but honestly, it's a bit of a hassle. Unless it's giving you a problem atm i'm sure it'll last another month or so.
You could also look up the brand/model and see if there's parts on ebay and exchange it but i will warn you though, if you haven't opened a laptop before you're in for a shitty experience. While Clevo/Sagers are a breeze to open, most brands are not. It usually involves having to deal with removing the keyboard, plastic clips that loves to break, bending and all kinds of stuff. If you're gonna buy a new one anyhow i would just leave it be.
It's usually either one of these problems:
OS (software) Installation.
RAM.
Drivers.
Faulty hardware.
Uploading a dmp file would be the easiest way to track the BSOD down.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/174459-dump-files-configure-windows-create-bsod.html
Hardware specs and other information would be lovely too. Monitor what you're doing whenever a BSOD occurs.
hey!
that's what the MS support forum guy said, but I don't have any USB devices. It's a lenovo ultrabook.
i noticed that the BSOD happens when I reopen the screen (I keep it all usually all day, and have it set to 'do nothing' when the lid is closed), so I tried this and I'm seeing if it has any effect. LOL I have no idea what if any difference it will make. >_<
It's not ideal having your computer not going into hibernation/sleep mode whenever the lid is closed. Mostly because of the heat.
Here's someone with the same error
http://www.sevenforums.com/bsod-help-support/269253-bsod-error-usbhub-sys.html
Hey everyone,
So I am having issues with Win. 8.1 with the printers the company I work for uses. They are all HP LaserJet 9050's and 9000's, and all have an 8 bin stacker on them, with Win 7, I was able to assign the output tray(bin) per computer, but with 8.1 I cannot do such things, doesn't even give me the option, though the drivers and everything were downloaded right. Does anyone here know what I can do to fix that? The HP forums have not be helpful yet. Hoping someone here would know what to do or download to fix this issue.
So I am having issues with Win. 8.1 with the printers the company I work for uses. They are all HP LaserJet 9050's and 9000's, and all have an 8 bin stacker on them, with Win 7, I was able to assign the output tray(bin) per computer, but with 8.1 I cannot do such things, doesn't even give me the option, though the drivers and everything were downloaded right. Does anyone here know what I can do to fix that? The HP forums have not be helpful yet. Hoping someone here would know what to do or download to fix this issue.
xaosslug
Member
OK, I changed it to sleep mode.
but the last time I opened the lid I received a pop-up that said 'unknown USB device drivers not found' and then a few minutes later another pop-up that said 'unknown usb device successfully installed, restart computer' so I did... LOL wtf is going on? I didn't even have anything connected to USB!!! >_<
GAF, please help! I'm having some issues with home broadband connection on my laptop (Lenovo, W7, i5 CPU, 8gb RAM, 2+ yrs old).
Using the internet on the laptop is always a bit up and down in terms of reliability and I recently noticed that I am receiving an absolute tonne of data in very short spaces of time. Check the image for an example:
I figured that there is some kind of P2P software or malware or something using my computer, but I can't figure out how to combat it. I was using some free McAfee virus software that came with my broadband, but I installed Avast last week instead and this hasn't turned up anything.
I'm also wondering if this is something to do with my router. Again, it's the freebie with the ISP (Plusnet in the UK) - the router is a Thompson Gateway.
For reference, in the time it's taken me to host that image and write this post my 'Bytes received' figure is now around the 90million mark, having been connected for 14 minutes! Any suggestions?
Using the internet on the laptop is always a bit up and down in terms of reliability and I recently noticed that I am receiving an absolute tonne of data in very short spaces of time. Check the image for an example:
I figured that there is some kind of P2P software or malware or something using my computer, but I can't figure out how to combat it. I was using some free McAfee virus software that came with my broadband, but I installed Avast last week instead and this hasn't turned up anything.
I'm also wondering if this is something to do with my router. Again, it's the freebie with the ISP (Plusnet in the UK) - the router is a Thompson Gateway.
For reference, in the time it's taken me to host that image and write this post my 'Bytes received' figure is now around the 90million mark, having been connected for 14 minutes! Any suggestions?
notoriousKTR
Member
Look at the Network panel in Resource Monitor (type 'resmon' in start search bar) to see what application is having the most network activity.
MaverickHunterX
Member
Hi TechGAF; long time stalker, first time asker.
My sister has an Acer Aspire desktop hooked up to a 42' inch Toshiba display using VGA. It had recently stopped working (and as all little sisters say, it's never their fault). All I get is a black screen without any sound
Unfortunately, I don't have an extra monitor to test the VGA plug, but I attempted to switch to HDMI, only to get the same results. The computer itself seems to be booting fine. Did she perhaps hit a wrong key or did the graphics card just give out (there's a layer of dust on the poor thing!)
I'm at my wits end and my Google fu is failing me...any help is appreciated... Thanks
My sister has an Acer Aspire desktop hooked up to a 42' inch Toshiba display using VGA. It had recently stopped working (and as all little sisters say, it's never their fault). All I get is a black screen without any sound
Unfortunately, I don't have an extra monitor to test the VGA plug, but I attempted to switch to HDMI, only to get the same results. The computer itself seems to be booting fine. Did she perhaps hit a wrong key or did the graphics card just give out (there's a layer of dust on the poor thing!)
I'm at my wits end and my Google fu is failing me...any help is appreciated... Thanks
First of all - I would try to dust the PC and attempt again. Perhaps if you clean the graphics card, cooling fan/s, etc. it will regain consciousness. Although, from the way it sounds, it's either the graphics card or the TV itself. If the dusting option didn't help, I would attempt to watch TV/connect a gaming console to the TV to make sure it works properly. As a last resort I'd attempt to switch the graphics card. If she has an onboard graphics card just install a new one as an extension card (perhaps try to transfer the one you have on your PC if it's suitable for your sister's PC architecture).
Hey TechSupportGAF, I have an Acer Aspire V5-552P laptop running Windows 8.1 and its wireless adapter hasn't been working properly for months. It can't connect to any network, and even when it does the Internet doesn't work or is so slow that it's unusable. However, I recently noticed that if I tether my laptop to my Android phone's data that it works perfectly. How is it that my laptop can't connect to a router but it can connect to my smartphone?
You should test and see which wireless standard does your adapter supports versus which standard does your router broadcasts it's current connection. Perhaps your adapter doesn't support it, which is what's causing the problem. If it really is the problem, you can try and enter your router management page by entering the default gateway IP in your browser. Once logged in, you can change the router wireless settings (of course, depends if the router supports it) which might fix the problem.
My laptop used to connect to the router just fine though.
Hello everybody!
I'm having a super annoying issue with something that keeps stealing my active window focus.
It started less than a week ago, and now it happens around every 5-10 minutes.
I've checked startup apps and running processes, and I tried to disable/kill everything not strictly needed (at least, stuff I know what they do), and nothing seems to solve the problem.
Drivers of basically whatever are up to date, except a "PCI Simple Communications Controller", that I honestly don't know what it is (vendor Intel, device something I can't remember, but I can't find it on Intel site).
Processes always open are Chrome (with Hangouts extension), AVG free stuff, Nvidia (Control Panel and Geforce Experience), SkyDrive (even tho I don't use it), Dropbox and ScpService (drivers for Dualshock pad).
Nothing like Spotify, iTunes or similar, who force helpers on startup.
I'm on Win 8.1, fully updated, with no weird stuff plugged to the PC (like, wireless mouse and keyboard with their drivers, or router management apps), except a Sixaxis pad with a broken L2 spring that is super sensible and it presses if I barely touch it - but I don't think this can be the culprit, because nothing happens if I actively press it.
So, is there a way to check which process has the focus at any given time? Like, a focus logger or something?
Thank you!
I'm having a super annoying issue with something that keeps stealing my active window focus.
It started less than a week ago, and now it happens around every 5-10 minutes.
I've checked startup apps and running processes, and I tried to disable/kill everything not strictly needed (at least, stuff I know what they do), and nothing seems to solve the problem.
Drivers of basically whatever are up to date, except a "PCI Simple Communications Controller", that I honestly don't know what it is (vendor Intel, device something I can't remember, but I can't find it on Intel site).
Processes always open are Chrome (with Hangouts extension), AVG free stuff, Nvidia (Control Panel and Geforce Experience), SkyDrive (even tho I don't use it), Dropbox and ScpService (drivers for Dualshock pad).
Nothing like Spotify, iTunes or similar, who force helpers on startup.
I'm on Win 8.1, fully updated, with no weird stuff plugged to the PC (like, wireless mouse and keyboard with their drivers, or router management apps), except a Sixaxis pad with a broken L2 spring that is super sensible and it presses if I barely touch it - but I don't think this can be the culprit, because nothing happens if I actively press it.
So, is there a way to check which process has the focus at any given time? Like, a focus logger or something?
Thank you!
Garou
Member
GAF, please help! I'm having some issues with home broadband connection on my laptop (Lenovo, W7, i5 CPU, 8gb RAM, 2+ yrs old).
Using the internet on the laptop is always a bit up and down in terms of reliability and I recently noticed that I am receiving an absolute tonne of data in very short spaces of time. Check the image for an example:
I figured that there is some kind of P2P software or malware or something using my computer, but I can't figure out how to combat it. I was using some free McAfee virus software that came with my broadband, but I installed Avast last week instead and this hasn't turned up anything.
I'm also wondering if this is something to do with my router. Again, it's the freebie with the ISP (Plusnet in the UK) - the router is a Thompson Gateway.
For reference, in the time it's taken me to host that image and write this post my 'Bytes received' figure is now around the 90million mark, having been connected for 14 minutes! Any suggestions?
1024 Bytes = 1 Kilobyte
1024 Kilobyte = 1 Megabyte
Your 90 million Bytes are like 90 MB which is like a handful of GAF-pages with pictures and Gifs.
NandyRewman
Member
I've got a query: my computer won't turn on most of the time, unless I wiggle the mains power cord in the back of the PSU. If I do that, I can normally manage to get it to 'click' on, and the computer works fine; most of the time. However sometimes it will just shut itself of at random, while other times it will turn on without me needing to touch the cord. I've tried replacing the cord, but that didn't seem to make a difference so I'm kind of at a loss. Anybody have any ideas? Cheers guys.
Autoquoting because apparently I've solved it, and maybe there's someone who'll need the same thing.
Searching around I found this small command-line app: http://www.adminscope.com/downloads/window-focus-logger/
It doesn't do anything else than logging which window currently has the focus.
After a couple of minutes, Chrome loses focus as AVG Safe Search Updater (or something) stole it.
As AVG is my current antivirus I didn't think to check all those AVG processes in task manager, so now I go searching for this and I find out that is related to the AVG Toolbar (which I never installed).
AVG Toolbar is something that generally comes bundled in downloads from fishy sites like Softonic.
I actually downloaded something from Softonic some time ago (it was an - apparently - legit app, which linked to Softonic from their very site to download it, so I thought it was fine), but I never installed the app, so I've been actually pwned like it was 1998.
Oh well, removed it from everywhere through ADWCleaner, disabled it from startup in Task Manager and everything else.
Apparently now I've been focus-stealing-free for twenty minutes. Yo.
Is this the place to talk about new PC's (non gamers ones?) or not? Sorry if not, let me know and I'll "move" it.
Parents PC has ground to a halt and have finally agreed it needs replacing.
They use it a lot, but not for many taxing things.
Concern 1 is that they want something that's going to last.
Concern 2 (and I've told them this) the are getting on a bit, so need a nice big monitor (I think they currently have about 15" one....)
I get MSDN subscription through work, so was going to buy one without an OS, saves a bit of cash.
Was just wondering what people thought of this?
Anywhere I should up the specs?
Budget is £750 and this is coming in at £630, so got a bit of room.
Processor (CPU)
AMD A8-6600K Quad Core APU (3.9-4.2GHz) & Radeon™ HD 8570D Graphics
Motherboard
ASUS® A88XM-PLUS: (M-ATX, DDR3, USB 3.0, 6Gb/s)
Memory (RAM)
16GB KINGSTON DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz (2 x 8GB)
Graphics Card
Integrated AMD Radeon HD 8000 Series Graphics
1st Hard Disk
1TB SEAGATE ST1000DX001 1TB/8GB SSHD 64MB HYBRID DRIVE
Monitor
Samsung SyncMaster S22C450BW 22" - 1680x 1050, 5MS, DVI-D
Should I get a dedicated Graphics card to show off the monitor a bit or will the Integrated one do ok?
Should I spend more on the monitor?
Get a Intel processor?
Any advice appreciated.
Parents PC has ground to a halt and have finally agreed it needs replacing.
They use it a lot, but not for many taxing things.
Concern 1 is that they want something that's going to last.
Concern 2 (and I've told them this) the are getting on a bit, so need a nice big monitor (I think they currently have about 15" one....)
I get MSDN subscription through work, so was going to buy one without an OS, saves a bit of cash.
Was just wondering what people thought of this?
Anywhere I should up the specs?
Budget is £750 and this is coming in at £630, so got a bit of room.
Processor (CPU)
AMD A8-6600K Quad Core APU (3.9-4.2GHz) & Radeon™ HD 8570D Graphics
Motherboard
ASUS® A88XM-PLUS: (M-ATX, DDR3, USB 3.0, 6Gb/s)
Memory (RAM)
16GB KINGSTON DUAL-DDR3 1600MHz (2 x 8GB)
Graphics Card
Integrated AMD Radeon HD 8000 Series Graphics
1st Hard Disk
1TB SEAGATE ST1000DX001 1TB/8GB SSHD 64MB HYBRID DRIVE
Monitor
Samsung SyncMaster S22C450BW 22" - 1680x 1050, 5MS, DVI-D
Should I get a dedicated Graphics card to show off the monitor a bit or will the Integrated one do ok?
Should I spend more on the monitor?
Get a Intel processor?
Any advice appreciated.
diggmcbadass
Member
If they are not playing games, then AMD processor with integrated graphics is probably the best value. Even the most low end APUs can decode full hd video these days. If they are using the PC primarily for browsing and office type activities, you could probably buy a cheaper APU and get more or less the same experience.
Going for a full HD monitor at 24" is probably a good idea as well.
Going for a full HD monitor at 24" is probably a good idea as well.
Can you try and connect the computer using an RJ45 cable (Ethernet connection) to the router and see if it works? If it works, you might need to change your router's wireless settings. Perhaps even try and reset the router to default configuration to see if it solves the problem.
notoriousKTR
Member
There are so many alternatives. No-IP (http://www.noip.com/), Hurricane DNS (https://dns.he.net/), and FreeDns (https://freedns.afraid.org/) are some of the popular ones.
Maan this is a pain. I have a seagate 1 TB hdd that Im trying to hook up to my asus rt-ac68u router but the hdd isn't being recognized by the router. I've updated to the latest router firmware, still nothing. I'm assuming it's the formatting of my drive which is ntfs, called asus support, told me I should change to fat32. I go to format my drive, no fat32 format, only exfat --> told me to call seagate support. I read on lifehacker that exfat formatted drives will only hold files that are less than 4gb, is that true? Not ideal for me, I have plenty over that... I found seagates discwizard which lets you format drives, not sure if it will help. Anyone have any ideas, I'd appreciate it, thanks.
notoriousKTR
Member
Check this out: http://www.ntfs.com/ntfs_vs_fat.htm
Fat32 is limited to 4GB file sizes, not exFat. According to Smallnetbuilder, your router does support NTFS: http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...etgear-r7000-a-asus-rt-ac68u?showall=&start=1
Fat32 is limited to 4GB file sizes, not exFat. According to Smallnetbuilder, your router does support NTFS: http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wire...etgear-r7000-a-asus-rt-ac68u?showall=&start=1
Dang, called Seagate, and apparently none of their drives support network use, except one which uses an ethernet cable. Haha ah man, all that for nothing.. thanks for the info.
Hey guys, just looking for some clarification here (trying to bootcamp our imac). I have come to the conclusion that is not possible to (legally) download the windows 8 iso image for the web, you have to do it through the .exe setup app they give you. Which would really suck since we are a mac household so I'm going to have to go round to a friends house or something even though I just gave them £50. So is this correct?