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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

scogoth

Member
I got a though one for GAF.

I have these old, wooden speakers from the early 2000s that MIGHT still work. The problem is that they don't have the standard audio jack+power supply connector, but rather, they connect to the stereo through electric wires that go into a series of terminals.
pics:
the wires go here


the speakers:



Is it possible to make it so they can be used with a PC?

Plug your speakers into an amplifier or receiver and connect your PC to that.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Wife's laptop has the fan running pretty much all the time, even though CPU usage is only 2-3%. Is there a simple way to clean things out, or might it need more maintenance like replacing heatsink/thermal paste? It's an old vaio from about 2011 - i3 370m
 
I hooked a PSOne up to the unused s-video port on monitor. The video comes through nicely, but while I can hear the audio in my headphones, it's kinda low.

The red and white RCA cables from the PSOne are jacked into one of these. I connected a doubled ended female coupler to the male portion of the adapter so I would have a place to plug my headphones in.

Is there any cheap solution to boost the audio? I tried an in-line volume control knob, but the max volume is the same as it was without it.
 
Wife's laptop has the fan running pretty much all the time, even though CPU usage is only 2-3%. Is there a simple way to clean things out, or might it need more maintenance like replacing heatsink/thermal paste? It's an old vaio from about 2011 - i3 370m

Have a look at the temps first using a program like HWMonitor when the laptop is idling on the desktop. (No intensive programs running.)

If the fans are running full blast with excessively high temps (70+ C) while idling, it could be time to replace that thermal paste, but depending on the laptop, it may be using those blue squarish thermal pads to fill up the gaps between the CPU and the heatsink instead which could make it tricky,

If the fans are successfully keeping the temps to a reasonable level (45 - 55 C) but just won't wind down when idling, a simple dust removal will suffice. You'll have to do some light diassembly to get rid of all the dust in the fans and vents though using something like a can of compressed air.
 

scogoth

Member
I hooked a PSOne up to the unused s-video port on monitor. The video comes through nicely, but while I can hear the audio in my headphones, it's kinda low.

The red and white RCA cables from the PSOne are jacked into one of these. I connected a doubled ended female coupler to the male portion of the adapter so I would have a place to plug my headphones in.

Is there any cheap solution to boost the audio? I tried an in-line volume control knob, but the max volume is the same as it was without it.

The PSOne is outputting line out volume so you need an headphone amplifier. Audiophiles will argue to the ends of the earth about quality of different headphone amps but something like a Fiio E3 will do just fine.
 
D

Deleted member 125677

Unconfirmed Member
Hi!

Do you have to reinstall os after upgrading mb/cpu these days?
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Have a look at the temps first using a program like HWMonitor when the laptop is idling on the desktop. (No intensive programs running.)

If the fans are running full blast with excessively high temps (70+ C) while idling, it could be time to replace that thermal paste, but depending on the laptop, it may be using those blue squarish thermal pads to fill up the gaps between the CPU and the heatsink instead which could make it tricky,

If the fans are successfully keeping the temps to a reasonable level (45 - 55 C) but just won't wind down when idling, a simple dust removal will suffice. You'll have to do some light diassembly to get rid of all the dust in the fans and vents though using something like a can of compressed air.


Running 70c at 2% CPU usage!and the fans are on quite loudly all the time but not full blast. But anything heavy duty and they'll spin up very quickly. I think the vaios have simple thermal paste. Will get it looked at, thanks.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Another one :)

How do I tell how many ram slots are occupied on a laptop? Got a new lenovo z510 with 4Gb ram, but the ram is very inaccessible - need to take out the keyboard and bottom of the case to get to it. So before I do that, I'd like to know whether it is 1x4Gb or 2x2GB - so I can buy the right ram to replace it.

(I've checked and although difficult to get to, it won't affect my warranty to replace it myself)
 
Another one :)

How do I tell how many ram slots are occupied on a laptop? Got a new lenovo z510 with 4Gb ram, but the ram is very inaccessible - need to take out the keyboard and bottom of the case to get to it. So before I do that, I'd like to know whether it is 1x4Gb or 2x2GB - so I can buy the right ram to replace it.

(I've checked and although difficult to get to, it won't affect my warranty to replace it myself)

A quick google suggests there's 1x4GB in your z510. You can verify this with CPU-Z on the SPD tab.
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
 
The PSOne is outputting line out volume so you need an headphone amplifier. Audiophiles will argue to the ends of the earth about quality of different headphone amps but something like a Fiio E3 will do just fine.

Thanks for the advice. Now I have an excuse to buy one of those Altoid tin thingamajigs.
 

Omni

Member
If I buy a new laptop and stick my old HDD in it, will it work?

I understand that the drivers will be outdated due to different hardware, but I'd just be able to fix that up myself, no? Reason I ask is that I have a lot of things on the HDD that would just be impractical to download again. Like installed games and programs (I only get 25gb of data a month with my ISP)
 
I recently purchased a MSI GE60 Apache Pro 003. I'm trying to re-install Windows 8 on a newly installed SSD. I made a recovery disk on a 16gb flash drive. Windows detects the SSD under disk management. I formatted it as NTFS, MBR. I unplugged/removed the regular HDD and tried installing Windows 8 on the SSD and no luck. I've tried the re-install while removing everything option and the refresh option. Remove everything option always ends in the computer telling me I can't do that, there's a windows partition missing. When I try to refresh install, it says the hard drive is locked and that I need to unlock it to move on. BIOS is set to ACPI. Also, BIOS won't recognize the SSD (Crucial) so I can't reorganize the boot priorities. I even updated the BIOS, which again didn't help. While I only had the SSD installed (and no HDD), I used command prompt to mark the SSD as active to see if that would do anything, but nothing. While the regular HDD is installed, I can reset the laptop to factory, but it won't ask me where I want to re-install Windows 8. I've never had this much trouble installing a SSD on my desktop. Anyone have a solution?

Edit: I called MSI support and he said to use burnrecovery and NOT Windows 8's recovery program. I took out the HDD, left the SSD installed, and successfully ran the recovery. Had a bit of an issue with Windows saying it can't be activated because the product key was installed on another machine (the regular HDD), but I figured that out. All is well!
 

onken

Member
This is probably a dumb question I thought of during my studies but I never see this addressed in text books - does IPv6 potentially give away too much information about your private network to the Internet?

Say I'm a business with 1000 PCs. If I'm using IPv4, the Internet will only ever see a handful of public IP addresses from my network since the local hosts are disguised by PAT/NAT overload.

Now say we live in IPv6 world, no PAT and end-to-end routing. Say the homepage of my 1000 PCs is set to Google. Surely now Google knows exactly how many PCs I have, the IP in the local environment and also how my subnets are broken down. Isn't this a bit too much information to be giving away or I am misunderstanding something here?

If I buy a new laptop and stick my old HDD in it, will it work?

I understand that the drivers will be outdated due to different hardware, but I'd just be able to fix that up myself, no? Reason I ask is that I have a lot of things on the HDD that would just be impractical to download again. Like installed games and programs (I only get 25gb of data a month with my ISP)

The answer is maybe. I've seen it work flawlessly and I've also seen it bluescreen over and over with no fix - it depends how different the architecture/drivers are for essential components. No sure fire way to know without trying it, I'm afraid.
 

Megasoum

Banned
Anybody else is having an issue with Youtube where the annotations still show up on videos even if they are turned off in your Youtube Settings? It started recently for me and it's bugging me.

Latest version of Chrome on Windows 7 and 8.1
 

Dai101

Banned
If I buy a new laptop and stick my old HDD in it, will it work?

I understand that the drivers will be outdated due to different hardware, but I'd just be able to fix that up myself, no? Reason I ask is that I have a lot of things on the HDD that would just be impractical to download again. Like installed games and programs (I only get 25gb of data a month with my ISP)

Usually work. If it keeps rebooting in a loop you can use "fix hdc" to fix that (you can find it in the Hiren's Boot CD or in UBCD). Now just remove all your old install drivers and install the new ones.
 

Dries

Member
Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade my GPU and I've set my sights on a Nvidia GTX 770 2GB. However, my current rig is more or less 2 years old and I'm wondering if my current rig and a new GTX 770 would work well together. Basically, I'm worried that some stuff on my current rig would bottleneck a new 770. Here's my rig:

CPU: i5 2500k 3.3 Ghz
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 - ATX - LGA1155 Socket - Z68
Memory: 8 GB ram
Power: Cooler Master Silent Pro M700
Resolution: 1920 x 1080

So guys, how would an upgrade to an GTX 770 work out with these specs? Right now I have a ATI 6970. Thanks!
 
Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade my GPU and I've set my sights on a Nvidia GTX 770 2GB. However, my current rig is more or less 2 years old and I'm wondering if my current rig and a new GTX 770 would work well together. Basically, I'm worried that some stuff on my current rig would bottleneck a new 770. Here's my rig:

CPU: i5 2500k 3.3 Ghz
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 - ATX - LGA1155 Socket - Z68
Memory: 8 GB ram
Power: Cooler Master Silent Pro M700
Resolution: 1920 x 1080

So guys, how would an upgrade to an GTX 770 work out with these specs? Right now I have a ATI 6970. Thanks!

OC that 2500k to 4.5 GHz and you should be golden with the GTX 770.

Also ensure that your PSU is up to snuff, which it should be, since it's doing fine with the 6970 card.

Prior to installing the NVIDIA card, do a complete wipe of the ATI graphics drivers as well to prevent conflicts/issues.
 

Dries

Member
OC that 2500k to 4.5 GHz and you should be golden with the GTX 770.

Also ensure that your PSU is up to snuff, which it should be, since it's doing fine with the 6970 card.

Prior to installing the NVIDIA card, do a complete wipe of the ATI graphics drivers as well to prevent conflicts/issues.

Thanks for the reply. But do you mean that a GTX 770 would only work well in my system if I OC it? In other words, would it be a disaster should I not OC my 2500k?

The reason I'm asking this is because I'm not that big of an hardware whiz and I've never done any OC'ing before. Maybe I will get into it, but for know I just want to check how it will hold up at stock speed.
 
Thanks for the reply. But do you mean that a GTX 770 would only work well in my system if I OC it? In other words, would it be a disaster should I not OC my 2500k?

The reason I'm asking this is because I'm not that big of an hardware whiz and I've never done any OC'ing before. Maybe I will get into it, but for know I just want to check how it will hold up at stock speed.

Not a disaster per se, but it'd ensure that there'll be minimal CPU bottlenecking of the card when running intensive games.

It should still deliver respectable performance even at stock clocks, but you'll definitely see overall GPU gains from OCing that quad core. And better performance all around that arises from OCing.

Just make sure you've got the cooling for it.
 

Dries

Member
Not a disaster per se, but it'd ensure that there'll be minimal CPU bottlenecking of the card when running intensive games.

It should still deliver respectable performance even at stock clocks, but you'll definitely see overall GPU gains from OCing that quad core. And better performance all around that arises from OCing.

Just make sure you've got the cooling for it.

Aha. I see. OC'ing seems tempting now. My current cooling component is a Scythe Mugen 2 rev. B SCMG-2100. How would his hold up when OC'ing?

Thanks for all the info btw.
 
Hi folks!
A relative gave me his old pre-built pc, Packard-Bell.
He said it doesn't work since a long time. He is right.

These are the specs I could find out myself:
CPU: Intel Core2Duo
GPU: Nvidia GTX 260
RAM: 2x2GB DDR2

Here is a photo album and here some pics:

BqpDoSC.jpg

After starting it up, there is no signal on my monitor (VGA only; I use VGA to DVI adapter). I also tried with the S-video output to my tv but also no signal.
I opened the pc. The cpu fan works, the fan on the gpu stands still, the card also doesn't get hot.
I used the other power connectors for the gpu but still nothing.
I also unplugged everything from the motherboard, DVD drives, Harddrive, USB ports.
Furthermore I removed the battery on the mainboard and waited a couple hours.

I fear the gpu is plain broken. The cooling matter on the cpu and heatsink also looks brittle, but I have no experience there though. The foxconn mainboard maybe is broken, or the PSU is broken and the gpu just doesn't get any juice. Is there a way to test the gpu another way?

My current pc is a laptop with following; ACER Aspire 6930G:
CPU: Core2Duo P8400@2.26 GHz
GPU: Nvidia 9600m GS
RAM: 4GB DDR2

As you can see, if I could get the pc to work, it would be a substantial upgrade and I could play gen7 games on my pc, which I heavily prefer. Ego-shooters with K/M is a must for me and I have much more fun. 720p or lower is fine for that setting.
This would hold me until 8core/ddr4 comes. I worry I'd regret building a i7/770 now for 1000€, just for a quantum leap to happen with 8core/ddr4 in a couple months.

Help guys.
 

Chairhome

Member
Hi folks!
A relative gave me his old pre-built pc, Packard-Bell.
He said it doesn't work since a long time. He is right.

These are the specs I could find out myself:
CPU: Intel Core2Duo
GPU: Nvidia GTX 260
RAM: 2x2GB DDR2

Here is a photo album and here some pics:





After starting it up, there is no signal on my monitor (VGA only; I use VGA to DVI adapter). I also tried with the S-video output to my tv but also no signal.
I opened the pc. The cpu fan works, the fan on the gpu stands still, the card also doesn't get hot.
I used the other power connectors for the gpu but still nothing.
I also unplugged everything from the motherboard, DVD drives, Harddrive, USB ports.
Furthermore I removed the battery on the mainboard and waited a couple hours.

I fear the gpu is plain broken. The cooling matter on the cpu and heatsink also looks brittle, but I have no experience there though. The foxconn mainboard maybe is broken, or the PSU is broken and the gpu just doesn't get any juice. Is there a way to test the gpu another way?

My current pc is a laptop with following; ACER Aspire 6930G:
CPU: Core2Duo P8400@2.26 GHz
GPU: Nvidia 9600m GS
RAM: 4GB DDR2

As you can see, if I could get the pc to work, it would be a substantial upgrade and I could play gen7 games on my pc, which I heavily prefer. Ego-shooters with K/M is a must for me and I have much more fun. 720p or lower is fine for that setting.
This would hold me until 8core/ddr4 comes. I worry I'd regret building a i7/770 now for 1000€, just for a quantum leap to happen with 8core/ddr4 in a couple months.

Help guys.

Is there a VGA out on the motherboard you can test? If that works, then its just the GPU.
 
No beeping noises. Also I should mention that before unplugging the harddrive, I pluged in a headset and started up, so that I could hear the windows startup sound even if the gpu was broken. But there was no sound, this makes me unsure wether the gpu is the problem.

The motherboard sadly has no video out at all. I wanted to plug another gpu, but I only have a NVIDIA 440mx 64mb and a ATI X1650 Pro 512mb. And those doesn't seem to have the neccessary interface.
 
If there is no diagnostic sound from the motherboard on startup, the likely culprits are the CPU, motherboard and ram (in that order). You should at least try to boot with just one ram stick, and then try with the other one afterwards to rule that out. Make sure the cpu is situated correctly. Make sure the power cables to the mother board are plugged in (though they are on your pictures.)

The thermal paste should be cleaned out and replaced, but for the purpose of getting the machine to boot at least into bios, I think you should be fine.

You could always try with a different graphics card if you can get one (if the old ones you have are AGP, you should try to find an even older one that is PCI instead) to rule out the gfx card, but superficially it might as well be the motherboard or cpu that is busted.

Do the fans run at the same speed after you turn the power on, or do they first speed up and settle afterwards?
 
Aha. I see. OC'ing seems tempting now. My current cooling component is a Scythe Mugen 2 rev. B SCMG-2100. How would his hold up when OC'ing?

Thanks for all the info btw.

Sorry for the late reply, but that would do just fine. You should be good to go.

Just take it slow and steady.
 

Pepiope

Member
I have Verizon Fios and I'm looking to upgrade my router on my 150/75 connection. Anyone have any recommendations on routers I can upgrade to and would I just have to replace the current router that I have from Verizon or will there involve more work?
 
My Cable Modem started resetting on its own recently/losing internet connection. The modem is connected to a wifi router. When connected directly to pc, it doesn't seem to crash. But when connected to the router it will drop every half hour-hour. It will mostly happen if I'm playing a game like Diablo or WoW over ethernet on my PC while watching a video on youtube, or while playing BF4 on PS4 over wifi while watching youtube vids on the wired PC. There are only about 1-2 devices using the wifi at a time max, and 2 computers directly connected to the router. Now after calling the cable company they said just connect to computer and nothing else, power cycle, all that shit, see if you still have issues. No problems when it's just modem to pc. The thing that makes me wonder is I found an old Netgear wifi router and it has the same problem. When multiple devices are using the net the modem will drop connection or straight up look like it soft reboots.

The wifi router that was connected was a Linksys that is a few years old, but this only started happening in the last 3 weeks. Not a single issue since it was bought. And this older Netgear, while I could understand having problems due to age/use, causes the exact same issue.

I originally checked Blizzard Tech support for Diablo 3 because that seemed to be the initial cause, they recommended firmware updates or a new wifi modem. So I'm wondering; are both of these wifi routers just too old to meet the demands of modern usage? Are they wore out? Could it be the modem from the cable company?

LinkSys router is a WRT54GSV7
Netgear(really old) is a WGR614v7
 

Ravijn

Member
I have Verizon Fios and I'm looking to upgrade my router on my 150/75 connection. Anyone have any recommendations on routers I can upgrade to and would I just have to replace the current router that I have from Verizon or will there involve more work?

It depends on what router they gave you at the time of the install. I managed to get the upgraded router when I got mine installed about a year ago.

If you get the service upgrade and you're not getting the speeds you're supposed to be getting then you can buy a router from Verizon if you want to go that route.

I would get the speed upgrade first and see what your benchmark is. Then, go from there.
 
If there is no diagnostic sound from the motherboard on startup, the likely culprits are the CPU, motherboard and ram (in that order). You should at least try to boot with just one ram stick, and then try with the other one afterwards to rule that out. Make sure the cpu is situated correctly. Make sure the power cables to the mother board are plugged in (though they are on your pictures.)

The thermal paste should be cleaned out and replaced, but for the purpose of getting the machine to boot at least into bios, I think you should be fine.

You could always try with a different graphics card if you can get one (if the old ones you have are AGP, you should try to find an even older one that is PCI instead) to rule out the gfx card, but superficially it might as well be the motherboard or cpu that is busted.

Do the fans run at the same speed after you turn the power on, or do they first speed up and settle afterwards?

Tried the RAM trick, ni dice.
I guess I'll take the PC apart and sell its pieces on ebay as defunct.

Thank you for your help though!
 
Okay, TechSupportGAF maybe one of you can help solve a problem I have. Until it is fixed it looks like I won't be able to install new drivers for my GTX780.

The problem; I've tried installing the new driver 337.88 but I can not. I get the error saying Intel driver must be installed first. Now I've had a look via my device manager and all I see is the HD4000 onboard GPU without a driver. It's never had one because when it was installed and I installed my GTX780 I could'nt work out how to display the 780. My PC always went to the HD4000. So it's now without a driver.
Thing is I last installed an nvidia driver in March, I think, and there was no problem. Now there is. I don't get it. Does the HD4000 need a driver? And if it does how do I make sure only my 780 is used? Before I looked at the Bios settings but I could'nt do anything to make that work.
So, can anyone help? If I can't fix this it looks like I'll never be able to install new drivers.
 
D

Deleted member 125677

Unconfirmed Member
Quick wifi router question

I got a new router that transmits at 2,4GHz and 5GHz. I've connected my computer to the 5GHz one, under the logic that a higher number must be better.

Bulletproof reasoning?
 
Quick wifi router question

I got a new router that transmits at 2,4GHz and 5GHz. I've connected my computer to the 5GHz one, under the logic that a higher number must be better.

Bulletproof reasoning?

Sorta. The 5 GHz band would be better for overall thoroughput and signal quality, since it is a lot less congested as compared to the widely used 2.4 GHz band for most devices (e.g. cordless phones and microwaves). You'll also be able to avoid interference from other WiFi networks in the area since most of them tend to use the 2.4 GHz band for transmission.

The only downsides to the 5 GHz are reduced signal range and strength if you're seperated from the router by a few brick walls. The 2.4 GHz band has better object penetration.
 
Don't really know if this is the place to post this, but I figured I'd give it a go anyway.

Has anyone seen this message pop up when using MSI Afterburner?
PUQcoVs.jpg


The program launches but is basically unusable because all the GPU hooking is now broken for some mysterious reason. I've been using the program happily for years and then out of the blue it just gives me that message and I can't make it work again. If I search for that message it only comes up with one other instance and the solution there (given by the creator of MSI Afterburner) was to stop using the program... Ideally I'd like to keep using it!

When I say "out of the blue" I really do mean it just popped up all of a sudden. I hadn't installed anything weird or been using any other OSD utilities (not that that mattered before) so I was really caught off guard. It will still monitor GPU, CPU and RAM usage but when I try and turn on the OSD it tells me that nothing can be hooked. Numerous re-installs have yielded nothing but the same pop-up and even going back to previous versions hasn't helped.

I'm totally clueless as to why it's not working anymore. It really suck that there isn't really another program quite like Afterburner; It has so many features and I'd hate to lose it.
 
Ok, GAF, I have a problem I can't fix. I usually wander the internets to find solutions but I'm stuck.

I own a Dell XPS 15 laptop since September and it came with Win8. It was working great. I had no problem with it, the battery lasted 8 hours on Microsoft Word and more than 4 hours on the Internet and with games etc.

But Windows asked me to update to 8.1 and since I had nothing but problems. The sleep mode disappeared from my computer like it never existed, the brightness level was stuck, the battery power was cut in half (4h without Internet and 2h on).

I could fix a lot of these problems, everything is going great now (except the battery :/ ).

But I still have one problem: once in a while (sometimes several times a day) when I listen to music or watch videos on the Internet or anything audio/video, I hear a high pitched noise from the inside, a machine-like sound like a floppy disk, a screeching noise.
Everytime I hear it, I know Windows gonna crash. It's gonna either freeze or it won't respond to anything or won't open any softwares or files.
If I'm listening to music, a part of the song is gonna loop forever. If it's a Youtube Video, it stops all of a sudden.
The only solution is a forced shutdown.

GAF, do you have any idea of what it could be ? I'm ready to provide any useful information. Thank you in advance.
 

bill0527

Member
My current setup:

I5 2500k
8GB DDR3 RAM
GeForce 560ti 1GB
650w Corsair PSU.

I just got an XFX R9 280x 3GB card yesterday for my birthday.

I uninstalled everything nVidia, installed the new card, downloaded the latest drivers and I have a problem.

Every time I do something with the PC, open a program, scroll the mouse wheel, or sometimes just randomly and intermittently, the screen will start to violently shake for a few seconds.

I ran CPU-Z and it looks like my processor is getting wild power fluctuations since I installed this card. I took the over clock off my processor and its still happening. I wiped all the drivers and catalyst control center, reseated the card, re seated the power cables to the card, re downloaded the drivers and its doing the same.

I just don't know if its a driver issue or a power supply issue? Is it possible I need a bigger PSU? I ran one of those power supply calculators and it said I need a 750w PSU, although those things can be not accurate.

Should I RMA the card or buy a new PSU and try it first, or could this be a driver issue?

I put the 560ti back in and did a windows restore to yesterday and everything is back working stable again.
 
My current setup:

I5 2500k
8GB DDR3 RAM
GeForce 560ti 1GB
650w Corsair PSU.

I just got an XFX R9 280x 3GB card yesterday for my birthday.

I uninstalled everything nVidia, installed the new card, downloaded the latest drivers and I have a problem.

Every time I do something with the PC, open a program, scroll the mouse wheel, or sometimes just randomly and intermittently, the screen will start to violently shake for a few seconds.

I ran CPU-Z and it looks like my processor is getting wild power fluctuations since I installed this card. I took the over clock off my processor and its still happening. I wiped all the drivers and catalyst control center, reseated the card, re seated the power cables to the card, re downloaded the drivers and its doing the same.

I just don't know if its a driver issue or a power supply issue? Is it possible I need a bigger PSU? I ran one of those power supply calculators and it said I need a 750w PSU, although those things can be not accurate.

Should I RMA the card or buy a new PSU and try it first, or could this be a driver issue?

I put the 560ti back in and did a windows restore to yesterday and everything is back working stable again.

If you have an alternative rig to test the R9 280x in to verify that the card is at fault, then do so.

To completely eliminate the driver possibility it's best test the card in a clean install of Windows. Remnants are always around even after the basic uninstallation utilities unless you use a driver cleaner equivalent like DDU.

But the bolded lines heavily point to your power supply being inadequate for the card. Especially the final line, that everything went back to normal when the 560ti was reinstalled.
 

bill0527

Member
If you have an alternative rig to test the R9 280x in to verify that the card is at fault, then do so.

To completely eliminate the driver possibility it's best test the card in a clean install of Windows. Remnants are always around even after the basic uninstallation utilities unless you use a driver cleaner equivalent like DDU.

But the bolded lines heavily point to your power supply being inadequate for the card. Especially the final line, that everything went back to normal when the 560ti was reinstalled.

I don't have another rig, but I did get a 750w Corsair power supply and installed it today. Still had the same issue with the card so I sent it back.
 

MikeDown

Banned
So yesterday I brought back my PC from sleep mode to discover that my primary monitor wouldn't light up with the display. The PC recolonized it and everything, just that it was all black, 2nd monitor was just fine. After some unplugging and replugging of the dvi cable/power cord I got it to display.

This only seems to be an issue with my PC being in sleep mode for long durations, gonna try another monitor tonight along with different cables see what happens.

My question is has anyone experienced something similar before? If my monitor isn't the issue I was thinking it could be perhaps a video driver issue or sign of a failing GPU or maybe and issue when the GPU doesn't power on completely. IDK.
Specs: Click here
 

Megasoum

Banned
Youtube is starting to piss me off...

Am I the only one who can't keep the Annotations turned off by default?

For the last couple of weeks, I keep seeing annotations on my youtube videos even if the checkbox is unchecked in the Youtube Settings... I tried cycling the setting, deleting the cookies and cache but nothing will do. No matter what option I set in the settings I will still see annotations. This is driving me crazy!

On latest version of Chrome and Windows 8.1
 

S0cc3rpunk

Unconfirmed Member
Edit post: never mind i just had to download geforce experience lol and i havent updated my graphics card lol but now i did and it works lol
 

Kade

Member
My ISP gave me a new router (Hitron CGN3) 4 days ago and for some reason when I try to access NeoGAF from my my desktop, it loads partially or not at all. I tried messing around with my DNS settings, MAC addresses and resetting the whole router but none of it worked. The site loads perfectly fine on my phone, tablet and other devices. The only difference is that those are connected wirelessly and my desktop is connected via ethernet cable.

Any help?

EDIT: Looks like it randomly started working after I posted in this thread??????????
 

TronLight

Everybody is Mikkelsexual
So, my pc's dvd reader doesn't seemes to be reading anymore. It opens and closes fine, but it doesn't read anything, and it doesn't show up in device manager either.

Opinions? Do I need to install some drivers I forgot about? I recently changed CPU cooler, and in order to to that I disconnected everything from the mainboard, maybe I didn't plug it back in well?
 
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