Don't Laugh
Banned
edit: solved
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Don't Laugh
Banned
edit: solved
Guerrillas in the Mist
Member
Hey everyone, I've been dealing with an issue with my PC, and I wanted to get some of that quality GAFer advice. For the past 4-5 months (since I moved house with my PC), my PC has been occasionally locking up with any sound looping or slowing down. This usually requires a hard reset, although sometimes it "recovers" after 10 or so seconds. It usually, although not exclusively happens during games and video playback. In recent weeks, its become massively more common, to the point that it will happen a few times daily if used heavily.
For the past month or so, I've been almost certain that it has something to do with the PSU, as physically moving the PC often the requires the 24 pin connector to be reseated/"wiggled" for the PC to boot again. I've checked the pins several times and they all seem to be fine to my un-expert eye, so my guess is that the PSU is starting to crap out. The other possibility is that it's the motherboard side of the 24-pin connector that's having issues.
Before I spend money on another PSU, do any GAFers have an idea of other possibilites, or indeed how to fix potential issues without electrocuting myself?
Edit: In case it helps, the PSU is a 700w OCZ Modxstream Pro which I got with the rest of my PC's components over 3 years ago.
For the past month or so, I've been almost certain that it has something to do with the PSU, as physically moving the PC often the requires the 24 pin connector to be reseated/"wiggled" for the PC to boot again. I've checked the pins several times and they all seem to be fine to my un-expert eye, so my guess is that the PSU is starting to crap out. The other possibility is that it's the motherboard side of the 24-pin connector that's having issues.
Before I spend money on another PSU, do any GAFers have an idea of other possibilites, or indeed how to fix potential issues without electrocuting myself?
Edit: In case it helps, the PSU is a 700w OCZ Modxstream Pro which I got with the rest of my PC's components over 3 years ago.
Networking question guys. Specifically regarding bridge modes on routers.
We just moved into a house, and before I wire the house with ethernet, I would like a temporary solution. I have two main locations for internet need. One upstairs, one downstairs. One wireless router for each, one Linksys/Cisco 2700, one Netgear N3500. Right now one is connected to the cable modem and working well.
Do any of the possible bridge modes mean the other router can catch wireless from the first and provide it to its local ethernet ports? Netgear's documentation seems to say so.
We just moved into a house, and before I wire the house with ethernet, I would like a temporary solution. I have two main locations for internet need. One upstairs, one downstairs. One wireless router for each, one Linksys/Cisco 2700, one Netgear N3500. Right now one is connected to the cable modem and working well.
Do any of the possible bridge modes mean the other router can catch wireless from the first and provide it to its local ethernet ports? Netgear's documentation seems to say so.
cj_iwakura
Member
My gf's cpu is running abnormally slow after she used some random Mp4-Mp3 conversion website. I checked the task manager and programs in safe mode and everything seems normal, but the Windows Security was turned off and won't let it be enabled. Is it possible she got some malware from this site?
Already uninstalled and reinstalled the browser as well as checked the temp files, no dice. And there's no system restore points prior to 8/4. The cpu just locks up then eventually becomes clear after a couple minutes.
Already uninstalled and reinstalled the browser as well as checked the temp files, no dice. And there's no system restore points prior to 8/4. The cpu just locks up then eventually becomes clear after a couple minutes.
ambientmystic
Member
Have you identified the process taking up all that CPU time?
Try heading to the Resource Monitor (Start -> type in "Resource Monitor" -> enter -> Click on the "CPU" tab -> Look at the list of Processes/Services) to figure it out.
yankeehater
Member
So I recently got a Dell venture tablet and I went to use it today but it said that there was 0 hard drive space available even though I have hardly used it. I thought this was odd and I decided to delete some files. I noticed that one drive was showing up as 6gb so I assumed that a local copy of all my pictures was being kept on my tablet and so I deleted them all. Now when I log in online to onedrive all my pictures are gone. I had every pic of my 4 month old daughter there. Is there any way to get those pics back?
Edit: NM, it was in the recycling bin on my pc for some reason.
Edit: NM, it was in the recycling bin on my pc for some reason.
cj_iwakura
Member
Definitely looks like something in the browser is causing it. FIrefox is taking up 169K alone.
cj_iwakura
Member
Solved, sort of. It's Silverlight.
Okay guys, need some help.
On my desktop(Win8.1) I have some Logitech speakers plugged in to the back and I also have my TV connected to my desktop. Now, when I switch to my TV as a display, the speakers continue playing sound. When I click mixer, it shows me I that I can click on choose TV, however, the speakers still continue to be where sound comes from. The only way I've found to force the TV to take over is to completely disable the speakers, but then run Windows Problem fixer thing whenever I switch back and disable the TV as a monitor....
There's got to be a correct way to do this, right?
On my desktop(Win8.1) I have some Logitech speakers plugged in to the back and I also have my TV connected to my desktop. Now, when I switch to my TV as a display, the speakers continue playing sound. When I click mixer, it shows me I that I can click on choose TV, however, the speakers still continue to be where sound comes from. The only way I've found to force the TV to take over is to completely disable the speakers, but then run Windows Problem fixer thing whenever I switch back and disable the TV as a monitor....
There's got to be a correct way to do this, right?
megarockexe
Member
If it's HDMI, can't you have it set as the default device? If it's like connecting a Laptop to a TV, only if the display is cloned does the TV play sound.
On my issue, I still keep getting random disconnects on my USB hardware connected to the back. This also happens on Linux. Do I throw the motherboard in the trash or is there still something I can do?
That's just beautiful.
Came to ask about PC maintenance and I read Druz' post about Malwarbytes and Sysinternals. Anyone have anything to add to that?
P.S. Thanks to all who've shared their wizened minds with the rest of us.
Seraph_Nicholas
Member
Anyone have any ideas on removing an ASUS K55N Aptio UEFI password? I've been back and forth across the internet and come up blank. Can't update windows due to virus fuckery that's disabled optical drive - Windows setup won't start from USB either.
Other notes: I have full access to Windows 7. I can access 'user' mode in the UEFI. I can force booting off USB by removing the hard drive, but the laptop doesn't support hot-plugging SATA. Ah well. I believe the optical drive may be toasted more deeply then I thought - For all intents and purposes, I'll need to operate entirely off USB
Other notes: I have full access to Windows 7. I can access 'user' mode in the UEFI. I can force booting off USB by removing the hard drive, but the laptop doesn't support hot-plugging SATA. Ah well. I believe the optical drive may be toasted more deeply then I thought - For all intents and purposes, I'll need to operate entirely off USB
As well optimus, make sure your power plan is set to high performance. As on my laptop with intel 4000/amd 7970m if it is not high performance it defaults to the intel 4000.
ChimpanzeeThat
Member
Hey guys, not sure if i'm posting in the right topic but i need some advice about a laptop RAM upgrade.
My brother has a Packard Bell EasyNote TS13HR, quite a nice little piece of kit, but it only has 4GB of RAM and he wants to upgrade but isn't sure how. I've done it only once before myself on my desktop but said i would look into it and looked over at Crucial to scan his computer.
Now Crucial have said he can go up to 8GB, which is perfectly fine, but the 4GBx2 kit costs £63, which is a lot for him as he's still in school. Now i found the same kit by a different manufacturer but cheaper. This is the RAM from Crucial and this is the one from NewEgg.
Basically i want to know if i'm barking up the right tree with the one from NewEgg or should i continue my search for a bargain? Only difference my amateur eyes is the voltage and i don't know what difference it really makes.
My brother has a Packard Bell EasyNote TS13HR, quite a nice little piece of kit, but it only has 4GB of RAM and he wants to upgrade but isn't sure how. I've done it only once before myself on my desktop but said i would look into it and looked over at Crucial to scan his computer.
Now Crucial have said he can go up to 8GB, which is perfectly fine, but the 4GBx2 kit costs £63, which is a lot for him as he's still in school. Now i found the same kit by a different manufacturer but cheaper. This is the RAM from Crucial and this is the one from NewEgg.
Basically i want to know if i'm barking up the right tree with the one from NewEgg or should i continue my search for a bargain? Only difference my amateur eyes is the voltage and i don't know what difference it really makes.
Neodiablo22
Member
Upgrading the ram on laptops is usually fairly simple. What you will need to do is look up the manual for the laptop to see what ram type is compatible. Another thing to keep in mind is that if the laptop has a windows 32 bit OS, the max amount of memory it can use is four gigs. As for understanding what ram is better than others, Memory Timings are how you can judge speed. The lower the numbers the better.
ChimpanzeeThat
Member
He doesn't have the manual for it anymore but it is a 64 bit OS.
I just need to know that from the two examples of RAM i posted, if the one from NewEgg is the same as the one from Crucial and will work just the same.
Jason's Ultimatum
Member
I was referred to this thread, so my qustion is:
Is there any free programs to recover deleted mp3 files? Let's just say I accidently deleted my entire MP3 folder, and I was wondering if it's possible to recover them.
Thanks
EDIT-I'm using Recuva to scan my recycling bin, and it's finding some of the songs, but i'm doing a deep scan, because the regular scan doesn't find anything. I know this is the free version, and I'm sure it's limited, and will only allow me to restore a certain amount of mp3 files. If there's any other free programs that'll restore my entire mp3 folder again, that'd be great.
Is there any free programs to recover deleted mp3 files? Let's just say I accidently deleted my entire MP3 folder, and I was wondering if it's possible to recover them.
Thanks
EDIT-I'm using Recuva to scan my recycling bin, and it's finding some of the songs, but i'm doing a deep scan, because the regular scan doesn't find anything. I know this is the free version, and I'm sure it's limited, and will only allow me to restore a certain amount of mp3 files. If there's any other free programs that'll restore my entire mp3 folder again, that'd be great.
ambientmystic
Member
Actually, the best way to know this is to get CPUz, run it, head to the SPD tab (of the currently installed memory), and have a look at the provided Timings Table in that tab.
Standard DDR3 SODIMM modules for a laptop typically use 1.5V, so the one from NewEgg is more likely to be the correct one, but I implore you to confirm it with your own eyes from the Timing Tables obtained using CPUz. The 1.35V modules from Crucial seem to be the lower voltage type which may save energy but may not be compatible with the sockets that the laptop has and will typically cost more as compared to the standard voltage RAM modules.
Example from my own laptop which uses standard 2x4GB DDR3 Kingston RAM modules:-
Jason's Ultimatum
Member
Hmmm. So when I do a deep scan with Recuva, after it's finished, there's nothing showing on the screen. Just a blank screen. The next scan I canceled midway through, and the results found my audio files. Why's it doing that?
EDIT-Well, seems like quite a few my audio files aren't working properly. They're only a few kbs here and there. Also, they don't have t he green dot indicating the files are excellent. A lot are red. Oh well.
EDIT-Well, seems like quite a few my audio files aren't working properly. They're only a few kbs here and there. Also, they don't have t he green dot indicating the files are excellent. A lot are red. Oh well.
There is one last thing I just remembered you could do, sorry I didn't mention it in the other thread. If you're on a Windows machine, you could try System Restore to a point before the deleted files date. It might recover your MP3's.
There's also a list of other recovery programs here, you never know, this could work. http://www.techradar.com/news/software/applications/best-free-recovery-software-1141256
ChimpanzeeThat
Member
Apologies for the late reply, this is the info i got from CPUz:
So if i'm reading correctly, the one from NewEgg is the correct one?
Thanks so much for pointing me to CPUz, that's one handy tool to have.
My laptop has some kind of infection, but neither Microsoft Security Essentials nor Malwarebytes are able to find anything when I run scans.
Sometimes after I click a link in Chrome I'll get redirected to a page like this:
These links aren't anything suspicious. I've gotten them from lots of websites I frequent. The most recent redirect happened as I was about to read this article from Rueters about the recent Missouri shooting.
I've had the same thing happen to me after opening some GAF threads too.
I'm really not sure what's happening here and would greatly appreciate any help anyone can provide.
Sometimes after I click a link in Chrome I'll get redirected to a page like this:
These links aren't anything suspicious. I've gotten them from lots of websites I frequent. The most recent redirect happened as I was about to read this article from Rueters about the recent Missouri shooting.
I've had the same thing happen to me after opening some GAF threads too.
I'm really not sure what's happening here and would greatly appreciate any help anyone can provide.
Jason's Ultimatum
Member
ill try system restore. If that doesn't work, then I may try other recovery programs. Its not the end of the world.
thanks
ambientmystic
Member
Aye.
As a sidenote, additonal verification for the currently used Timings/DRAM Frequency from the Timings Table can be obtained from the "Memory" tab in CPUz.
Generally speaking the highest frequency that the laptop's mobo can support will be selected in the absence of a user configurable choice in the BIOS (which is common in laptops).
ChimpanzeeThat
Member
Thank you all for your help, i'll be ordering for him later on.
Use Adblock Plus for Chrome & if you want to be really safe, NoScript for Chrome.
Agent_ShortBus
Member
Hi guys, I'm hoping some one can help me with a Mobo issue I'm having.
So I have an asus sabertooth z87 Mobo and just recently it doesn't connect to the Internet and by that I mean the lights on the ethernet port don't even light up. At first I thought maybe it just had outright died. Then I decided to turn off my PSU as the Mobo can still deliver power through the USB ports and turn it back on and that seems to fix my ethernet problem the lights on the port start lighting up and I have an Internet connection. So now before I turn on my PC I have to cycle the power for the ethernet to light up and start working. I've tried reinstalling the drivers but no luck. Any help would be appreciated, I'm just getting tired of reaching behind my case to reach the PSU just so I can get online. Sometimes I even forget. I'm at work right now so I don't have access to super detailed info but I'm running the latest Bios. Thanks.
So I have an asus sabertooth z87 Mobo and just recently it doesn't connect to the Internet and by that I mean the lights on the ethernet port don't even light up. At first I thought maybe it just had outright died. Then I decided to turn off my PSU as the Mobo can still deliver power through the USB ports and turn it back on and that seems to fix my ethernet problem the lights on the port start lighting up and I have an Internet connection. So now before I turn on my PC I have to cycle the power for the ethernet to light up and start working. I've tried reinstalling the drivers but no luck. Any help would be appreciated, I'm just getting tired of reaching behind my case to reach the PSU just so I can get online. Sometimes I even forget. I'm at work right now so I don't have access to super detailed info but I'm running the latest Bios. Thanks.
SpaceShark
Member
I bought my dad a ATI HD5450 late last year, as he got a new 27" monitor and the on-board graphics couldn't handle the higher resolution.
He had a couple of problems with it ("crashing while watching YouTube videos" apparently), so he switched back to using on-board through VGA and a non-native res "temporariliy", but we forgot all about the issue until the other day when I remembered and had a look at it for him.
The problem seems much worse than what he originally described. As soon as we switch to using the HD5450 over DVI @ 2560x1440, we start to see artifacts around the mouse cursor, and after not too much time, the computer reboots. This caused us some serious issues at one point, as I was halfway through installing new ATI drivers when it rebooted, and had to use System Restore to get the system back to a usable state.
I have a couple of theories:
He had a couple of problems with it ("crashing while watching YouTube videos" apparently), so he switched back to using on-board through VGA and a non-native res "temporariliy", but we forgot all about the issue until the other day when I remembered and had a look at it for him.
The problem seems much worse than what he originally described. As soon as we switch to using the HD5450 over DVI @ 2560x1440, we start to see artifacts around the mouse cursor, and after not too much time, the computer reboots. This caused us some serious issues at one point, as I was halfway through installing new ATI drivers when it rebooted, and had to use System Restore to get the system back to a usable state.
I have a couple of theories:
- Bad card, DOA (most likely)
- Power supply not up to the task. Doesn't seem likely, as the power supply is an "Antec EarthWatts Green 380W 80 Plus Bronze Certified" that came with the case. Not particularly powerful, but he's not running any extra hardware besides the core system (CPU/MoBo, 1 SSD, 1 HDD, 1 DVD), and the HD5450 is so low-powered that it didn't even need it's own connection to the PSU, it's just powered through the MoBo.
TimHortons
Member
What monitor are we talking about here? I have a Qnix 2560x1440 and it needs a DVI-D Dual Link. Fairly sure that Video Card is only single link.
Can check the connection on the HD5450, if its any of the 3 with teh red X's its no bueno.
SpaceShark
Member
The monitor is a Dell, I don't know the exact model number as I'm not there, but I'm guessing it is the Dell UltraSharp U2713HM, which seems to need DVI-D, as you said.What monitor are we talking about here? I have a Qnix 2560x1440 and it needs a DVI-D Dual Link. Fairly sure that Video Card is only single link.
Can check the connection on the HD5450, if its any of the 3 with teh red X's its no bueno.
The graphics card is this ASUS one, which has DVI-I.
Soooooooo, time for a new card again I suppose. Goddamnit. Thanks for your help, though.
Anyone know of a good, cheap, low-power graphics card capable of driving 2560x1440 over DVI-D?
EDIT: Hold on, would plugging a DVI-I card into a DVI-D monitor crash the computer? I can understand glitches, but the computer is actually hard rebooting.
Noooo! After around seven years of loyal service (did have screen replaced under extended warranty - phew!) my ThinkPad T61 blue screened on me (in Chrome with no plugins) and now it just beeps four times, on power up (nothing on display) . While on the blue screen Windows Vista error, it said it was dumping memory to HD, except there was no HD activity, only network, so I powered it down.
I tried removing one of the two 1 GB memory modules and got the same beeps. If I remove both modules, I get a long series of beeps, as associated with a RAM issue. If I remove HD, I just get original four beeps. Unfortunately, the online documentation I found doesn't mention the "four" beep error (does mention "five" beeps etc), although others have had it.
Someone mentioned removing CMOS battery, for a few minutes, but I'm concerned this might cause more issues than it solves (I don't have a BIOS password set, but do have fingerprint password enabled for main Vista account). Is this worth a try?
My battery has long since failed, but I rarely ever used my laptop when not plugged into the mains. I hope my delay in replacing the battery didn't contribute to my T61's demise. I believe my backups are at least up-to-date (posting from my PS3).
. While on the blue screen Windows Vista error, it said it was dumping memory to HD, except there was no HD activity, only network, so I powered it down.I tried removing one of the two 1 GB memory modules and got the same beeps. If I remove both modules, I get a long series of beeps, as associated with a RAM issue. If I remove HD, I just get original four beeps. Unfortunately, the online documentation I found doesn't mention the "four" beep error (does mention "five" beeps etc), although others have had it.
Someone mentioned removing CMOS battery, for a few minutes, but I'm concerned this might cause more issues than it solves (I don't have a BIOS password set, but do have fingerprint password enabled for main Vista account). Is this worth a try?
My battery has long since failed, but I rarely ever used my laptop when not plugged into the mains. I hope my delay in replacing the battery didn't contribute to my T61's demise. I believe my backups are at least up-to-date (posting from my PS3)
.SpaceShark
Member
So, after doing some reading, I've learnt that the DVI-I vs DVI-D issue was a red herring. The DVI-I video card should work with a DVI-D monitor. The issue might be whether or not the Asus HD5450 is dual link or not, and I can't find any details either way on that.
I've decided to get a replacement card. The problem might be caused by the card being dodgy, or the card being single-link-only. In either case, by buying a Sapphire HD5450, I'll hopefully solve both problems as the Sapphire is listed as dual-link DVI-I on the website, and we'd be pretty unlucky to get two dodgy cards. It's not expensive, so if it works it'll be worth it.
If that doesn't work, I guess I'll just throw the computer off a cliff and start over
I've decided to get a replacement card. The problem might be caused by the card being dodgy, or the card being single-link-only. In either case, by buying a Sapphire HD5450, I'll hopefully solve both problems as the Sapphire is listed as dual-link DVI-I on the website, and we'd be pretty unlucky to get two dodgy cards. It's not expensive, so if it works it'll be worth it.
If that doesn't work, I guess I'll just throw the computer off a cliff and start over
You're throwing good money after bad. Just get a decent card that has DVI-D. These resolutions weren't really a thing when that card was manufacturered. Get a modern $100 card instead of two $50 ones that don't work.
If you can push it, get an nvidia 750ti. Excellent card that is powerful enough to push that monitor while also consuming minimal power (and thus not pushing the psu you have)
If you can push it, get an nvidia 750ti. Excellent card that is powerful enough to push that monitor while also consuming minimal power (and thus not pushing the psu you have)
megarockexe
Member
This must be karma. My issue keeps coming back!
So after almost hourly mouse and keyboard disconnecting, flashing my motherboard to the latest BIOS fixed it for about a week, and now it's slowly coming back. This is driving me insane.
It also tends to disconnect completely after recently waking. Is this turning into a PSU problem? I have a GTX 650 on a 550W PSU if it matters.
So after almost hourly mouse and keyboard disconnecting, flashing my motherboard to the latest BIOS fixed it for about a week, and now it's slowly coming back. This is driving me insane.
It also tends to disconnect completely after recently waking. Is this turning into a PSU problem? I have a GTX 650 on a 550W PSU if it matters.
Sounds like your USB's aren't getting enough power hence the disconnects.
You using all the ports?
SpaceShark
Member
What's wrong with DVI-I? From what I read, it is digital and analog signals over DVI, whereas DVI-D is digital only.
I don't think DVI-D is better, it's just that newer cards tend to drop the analog part.
Also, there is no reason that card shouldn't power 2560x1440. This is not a gaming machine (at all), and it supports that resolution, so where's the problem?
Unless the 5450 that you bought before was faulty I just don't think you'll get a different result by using the same card by a different manufacturer.
SpaceShark
Member
OK. I am pretty sure that it is faulty, which is the main reason we're getting a new card. I don't know why the card would be crashing the computer whilst running a supported resolution for any other reason.
The "other brand" thing was just for the peace of mind because they explicitly state on the specs that it's a dual-link DVI-I port, and I didn't have 100% certainty about that with the first card.
Good luck!
I hope it works for youErr, think my macbook may have died. Was just browsing the web when the screen abruptly cut to black. Wouldn't respond so I held down the power to try and reset but the screen won't come back on and it just periodically plays a low beeping noise. Hold down the power button again from there and it reboots (usually, got stuck on a white screen one time) but it only lasts between 5 seconds and a few minutes before the problem repeats. It's 4 years old almost but to be clear I have done nothing that might have damaged it and haven't even been using it for anything taxing lately. Don't suppose anyone has a speculative diagnosis?
Goddamit, worst time for this to happen. Ipad and a bunch of other stuff got stolen last month and just found out today my travel Issurance isn't covering it
Goddamit, worst time for this to happen. Ipad and a bunch of other stuff got stolen last month and just found out today my travel Issurance isn't covering it
TimHortons
Member
Theres a few variations of beeps on bootup and what errors they are tied to: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5860?viewlocale=en_US
Smushroomed
Banned
Problem description:
I have this odd problem, in which my FPS in games will drop/lag until AFTER I restart the computer. This only happens from a cold boot
Using Wildstar 64-bit. With no other programs open, I use alt+f1 to show fps, which shows anywhere from 10-50 fps, I immediately restart and repeat the process, which then shows fps at >110.
cold boot -> laggy fps -> restart -> good fps, every single time.
Attempted fixes: Reformatted SSD, new 8.1 install, everything up to date. Latest (non-beta) nvidia drivers
Recent changes: New mobo - asus z97, new proc - i5 4670k - All software/drivers up to date.
--
Operating system: win 8.1 64-bit.
System specs:
i5 4670k
asus z97
gtx 670 2gb (purchased may 2012)
8gb ram
750w psu
Nothing overclocked.
Location: USA
I have Googled and read the FAQ: Yes, my google-fu only suggests looking into cpu/gpu temps after the comp has been on for a period of time, but not after a cold boot
I have this odd problem, in which my FPS in games will drop/lag until AFTER I restart the computer. This only happens from a cold boot
Using Wildstar 64-bit. With no other programs open, I use alt+f1 to show fps, which shows anywhere from 10-50 fps, I immediately restart and repeat the process, which then shows fps at >110.
cold boot -> laggy fps -> restart -> good fps, every single time.
Attempted fixes: Reformatted SSD, new 8.1 install, everything up to date. Latest (non-beta) nvidia drivers
Recent changes: New mobo - asus z97, new proc - i5 4670k - All software/drivers up to date.
--
Operating system: win 8.1 64-bit.
System specs:
i5 4670k
asus z97
gtx 670 2gb (purchased may 2012)
8gb ram
750w psu
Nothing overclocked.
Location: USA
I have Googled and read the FAQ: Yes, my google-fu only suggests looking into cpu/gpu temps after the comp has been on for a period of time, but not after a cold boot
Jason's Ultimatum
Member
So I downloaded minitool partition recovery and I was able to recover only 1gb of my mp3s. Is it possible to uninstall, reinstall, and recover another 1gb?
EDIT-Didn't work. When I reinstalled it, it showed the amount of free data for recovery still showing. I've tried just about every free program that was listed on the techradar's website, and minitool partition recovery is the only program that has been able to manage to locate all the deleted songs from my thumb drive. The other programs like Recuva and Undelete360 only showed less than 30 songs found.
Anyone else has suggestions? I really would like something th
EDIT-Didn't work. When I reinstalled it, it showed the amount of free data for recovery still showing. I've tried just about every free program that was listed on the techradar's website, and minitool partition recovery is the only program that has been able to manage to locate all the deleted songs from my thumb drive. The other programs like Recuva and Undelete360 only showed less than 30 songs found.
Anyone else has suggestions? I really would like something th