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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Zoe
Member
They do send out techs. I've asked them come to my work rather than my home though.
Primethius
Banned
I keep getting this visual glitch in Chrome sometimes: http://puu.sh/brEVh/a30d8247ab.png
It's only in Chrome so far (nothing in IE, or anywhere else on the computer. I really don't get it. I've uninstalled Chrome completely twice so far using VS Revo uninstaller.
It's only in Chrome so far (nothing in IE, or anywhere else on the computer. I really don't get it. I've uninstalled Chrome completely twice so far using VS Revo uninstaller.
Thanks!
I'm having a problem with the Steam GotY editon of Batman Arkham City:
Maybe someone here has encountered a similar problem like this before?
When I started the game I got this error message
after a little research I found some posts that said that I have to give administrative rights to the exe and so I did but then I encountered this message,
although I am logged in to steam
My folder where the exe is looks like this
but after I verify the game integrity of the game cache it says that 42 files failed to verify
and after that the folder with the exe looks like this
After I try to start the game then I get the first error message again and after that the directory looks like before (with the 7 files in it)...
Anyone encountered smth familiar and or has any ideas how to solve this?
Maybe someone here has encountered a similar problem like this before?
When I started the game I got this error message
after a little research I found some posts that said that I have to give administrative rights to the exe and so I did but then I encountered this message,
although I am logged in to steam
My folder where the exe is looks like this
but after I verify the game integrity of the game cache it says that 42 files failed to verify
and after that the folder with the exe looks like this
After I try to start the game then I get the first error message again and after that the directory looks like before (with the 7 files in it)...
Anyone encountered smth familiar and or has any ideas how to solve this?
When I woke up this morning my computer was off, which is odd because I only put it to sleep. And just now when I got home from classes it was off again
Anything to check?
Anyone? Google is failing me. Computer only shuts off in sleep mode. If I disable sleep, it's fine. It doesn't shut down gracefully either because firefox always complains about it on reboot.
Mixolydian
Member
Hey all. I've been trying to sort through the numerous "fixes" for ensuring my NAT type stays open. There seems to be a lot of bad/unnecessary/misunderstood info out there on what to do. Port forward, disable/enable UPnP, place X1 into DNA, static IP.. It just goes on and on.
I understand that when a problem contains multiple variables, solutions aren't always so easy; however, when armchair tech support (I understand most really do want to help) comes in, it can get more screwed up. Therefore, my question to those is the know is: WHAT DO I DO?
My setup is a cable modem going into a Netgear AC router (model escapes me, but a first gen AC router). Up to 7 devices at a time. UPnP enabled. No port forwarding yet, no DMZ, and my X1 is wired into the router. When I unplug everything and reset the modem and router, my NAT type reads Open on my X1 for a day on up to a week or more.
So, based off that vague info, can anyone point me in the right direction?
I understand that when a problem contains multiple variables, solutions aren't always so easy; however, when armchair tech support (I understand most really do want to help) comes in, it can get more screwed up. Therefore, my question to those is the know is: WHAT DO I DO?
My setup is a cable modem going into a Netgear AC router (model escapes me, but a first gen AC router). Up to 7 devices at a time. UPnP enabled. No port forwarding yet, no DMZ, and my X1 is wired into the router. When I unplug everything and reset the modem and router, my NAT type reads Open on my X1 for a day on up to a week or more.
So, based off that vague info, can anyone point me in the right direction?
I need some help with a password protected hard drive. I used it as an internal hard drive on a previous computer with Windows XP with all my files on a password protected account. This computer broke, so I couldn't change the administrator rights. Now I'm using it as an external drive. I can still open/copy/remove anything I want, but when I want to remove something I have to give permission each time. Not really much of an issue since I still have access to everything, but I'm wondering how I can get rid of this?
Basically all my folders are read-only and I need administrator rights from my previous computer's account. I've tried to uncheck read-only in properties but I can't get rid of it.
I'm on Windows Vista.
Basically all my folders are read-only and I need administrator rights from my previous computer's account. I've tried to uncheck read-only in properties but I can't get rid of it.
I'm on Windows Vista.
SailorCosmos
Member
So I have an old Viewsonic E771 CRT monitor that I've used for ages and in the past couple of weeks it has been acting up. On occasion the screen will start flickering/jittering very slightly and usually sometime after that the left side of the screen will act as if I changed the resolution and crush the display window. Is there anyway to fix this or is my CRT on its last leg?
Hoya Destroyer
Member
Im wondering if someone can answer these questions for me?
I currently use a HP Pavilion 2060a desktop computer. Official specs here...
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...me=c02992729&jumpid=reg_r1002_auen&lc=en#N101
The GT520 video card it came with is a bit... limiting so, I want to buy a new video card and apparently I have to buy a new power supply too, as my current power supply is too weak. So I have decided I want this card and power supply...
Thermaltake 500W ATX OEM PSU
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 OC 1GB
If I buy these things and have them installed in the store, it will cost me about $380 (AUD).
If I buy them online and install them myself, it'll only cost me about $180. Pretty big difference.
I have installed video cards before (easy stuff IIRC), but never a power supply. Would someone with no experience installing a power supply, generally be able to do it without blowing the computer up? (I once blew up a desktop computer by flicking the red switch on the back of a PSU and turning the system on. The was a loud sharp bang and a little smoke)
The power supply specs say it has "over power protection, over voltage protection and short circuit protection", so Im hoping the installation would be idiot proof.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_225&products_id=24432
Do I need to screw around with bios settings or anything to install either of these things? That sounds a bit daunting to me.
Thanks for any help.
I currently use a HP Pavilion 2060a desktop computer. Official specs here...
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...me=c02992729&jumpid=reg_r1002_auen&lc=en#N101
The GT520 video card it came with is a bit... limiting so, I want to buy a new video card and apparently I have to buy a new power supply too, as my current power supply is too weak. So I have decided I want this card and power supply...
Thermaltake 500W ATX OEM PSU
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 OC 1GB
If I buy these things and have them installed in the store, it will cost me about $380 (AUD).
If I buy them online and install them myself, it'll only cost me about $180. Pretty big difference.
I have installed video cards before (easy stuff IIRC), but never a power supply. Would someone with no experience installing a power supply, generally be able to do it without blowing the computer up? (I once blew up a desktop computer by flicking the red switch on the back of a PSU and turning the system on. The was a loud sharp bang and a little smoke)
The power supply specs say it has "over power protection, over voltage protection and short circuit protection", so Im hoping the installation would be idiot proof.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_225&products_id=24432
Do I need to screw around with bios settings or anything to install either of these things? That sounds a bit daunting to me.
Thanks for any help.
Get a 750 Ti, you won't need a new powersupply. It's a very low wattage card. You can even find versions that don't require extra PCIe power and will run off of the motherboard power alone.
EDIT
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1617&products_id=27301
Get that one. They're about as powerful as a 580.
I got a problem with my wifi signal, and hope someone here knows what's up. For some reason my wifi signal drops in my daughters room, yet it works everywhere else in the house. I've tried changing the wifi channel but that didn't solve it.
So obviously, something is interfering with it, in my daughters room. Thing is, I have no idea what it could be. All she has in there is a bed, a bunch of toys and a dresser.
I thought that maybe is it the neighbours causing it? I don't know. Anyways hope someone has any idea as to what I can do. Placing the modem somewhere else isn't going to happen unfortunately.
So obviously, something is interfering with it, in my daughters room. Thing is, I have no idea what it could be. All she has in there is a bed, a bunch of toys and a dresser.
I thought that maybe is it the neighbours causing it? I don't know. Anyways hope someone has any idea as to what I can do. Placing the modem somewhere else isn't going to happen unfortunately.
mrmisterwaa
Neo Member
Get an extender - they are pretty cheap. Figuring out most wifi issues are usually extremely tedious - unless you skill, equipment or time - you might as well as spend the 20 - 40$ for an extender/or a bigger/stronger antenna.
Hoya Destroyer
Member
Thanks for that. It looks like it might be the best one for me. Just 2 questions...
1. Is the EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB generally superior (performance wise) to the Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 OC 1GB I was originally going to buy? If the 750TI can use a weaker PSU, I worry it may be a weaker card.
2. Is EVGA a reliable brand? I was specifically told by someone that Gigabyte were very good.
Thanks again
1. Yes the Ti is faster. It is the first card based on the New Maxwell architecture, which doesn't make it "weak" it makes it "efficient".
2. Evga is a top brand. I picked it for you because it doesn't require the extra 6pin pcie power connector. Gigabyte and Asus are also good. They are the top three companies basically.
Do it
I need your opinion guys...
So I've been using a USB3 drive inclosure with a Seagate Barracuda 2TB drive for years without much issues.
Recently however I noticed that I'm having issues writing on it. I can still copy files from the drive to my pc without too much issues but when I try to copy a file TO the drive it will go super fast for a couple of seconds and then drop to 0kb/sec and stay there.
I tried opening the enclosure to make sure the drive was still plugged properly and everything looked fine. I ran the drive scan in windows but didn't find any errors.
So.... am I fucked? Any ideas?
EDIT: Phewwwwww... I just installed the drive directly in my tower instead of using the enclosure and it looks like it's working fine now. Dodged a bullet there!
So I've been using a USB3 drive inclosure with a Seagate Barracuda 2TB drive for years without much issues.
Recently however I noticed that I'm having issues writing on it. I can still copy files from the drive to my pc without too much issues but when I try to copy a file TO the drive it will go super fast for a couple of seconds and then drop to 0kb/sec and stay there.
I tried opening the enclosure to make sure the drive was still plugged properly and everything looked fine. I ran the drive scan in windows but didn't find any errors.
So.... am I fucked? Any ideas?
EDIT: Phewwwwww... I just installed the drive directly in my tower instead of using the enclosure and it looks like it's working fine now. Dodged a bullet there!
So I just started trying to learn VBA. The old guy at our work had a bunch of programs written in our excel logs, but an intern accidentally made the workbook like 10 million cells and everytime we try to delete them we get an error that we don't have the processing capacity to delete them. The workbook operates extremely slow now and often freezes. I would copy the data to a new book but there is a ton of code and VBA code already written in the original book. Sorry if I sound illiterate as I'm not really tech savy. Any suggestions?
I am having this wierd issue. When Windows 8.1starts up, I get an error saying along the lines of "The last USB device I connected failed"...then it seems to through through the process of re-detecting all USB devices. Afterward, all my USB devices work until it repeats on the next startup. In Device Manager there's problem with a "Unknown USB Device (Link in Compliance Mode)". Removing all my USB connections doesn't fix the issue. And, no Intel USB drivers for Windows 8. The only solution I have found is to disable USB XHCI in bios, Windows boot without an errors and all my USB still works, but I will be losing the faster USB speeds. Anyone have any possible solution?
DarkLegion
Member
Have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling your drivers?
Intel chipset drivers? Tried a few times already.
Hoya Destroyer
Member
1. Yes the Ti is faster. It is the first card based on the New Maxwell architecture, which doesn't make it "weak" it makes it "efficient".
2. Evga is a top brand. I picked it for you because it doesn't require the extra 6pin pcie power connector. Gigabyte and Asus are also good. They are the top three companies basically.
Do it
Done. Thanks again
I have a SF IV fight stick which is a 1.1 device using UHCI. Unfortunately while it is recognized by my PC, none of the inputs are detected.
I was under the impression that usb 3.0 was supposed to be backwards compatible with the older interfaces. I frequently use this stick through 3.0 on a dell and a lenovo laptop so I know at least some chipsets support this. I have a ASUS P8Z77-V LK mobo which has a 3.0 (20-1 pin USB3_34) connector for the front of my case but I am seeing the problem above.
I have seen reports that the Rosewill RC-103 (usb2.0 pci adapter) will work with this stick fine so I have a backup plan, but I am trying to find a solution that lets me use the front 3.0 ports on my case.
I was under the impression that usb 3.0 was supposed to be backwards compatible with the older interfaces. I frequently use this stick through 3.0 on a dell and a lenovo laptop so I know at least some chipsets support this. I have a ASUS P8Z77-V LK mobo which has a 3.0 (20-1 pin USB3_34) connector for the front of my case but I am seeing the problem above.
I have seen reports that the Rosewill RC-103 (usb2.0 pci adapter) will work with this stick fine so I have a backup plan, but I am trying to find a solution that lets me use the front 3.0 ports on my case.
Lord Panda
The Sea is Always Right
Hi guys,
Anyone know an easy way of dumping multiple music CDs into one DVD?
I guess I could rip each CD individually and then build it up on the DVD but this question is on behalf of an elderly friend of mine and an automated painless process (via software) would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Anyone know an easy way of dumping multiple music CDs into one DVD?
I guess I could rip each CD individually and then build it up on the DVD but this question is on behalf of an elderly friend of mine and an automated painless process (via software) would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Hoya Destroyer
Member
Well, I got my GTX 750 Ti 2GB in the mail today, but once I installed it and turned on my computer, it just hangs on the blue HP pre-boot screen. I think getting ANY image on screen eliminates the possibility of the card not being installed in the PCI slot correctly, or HDMI cable or port issues at either end.
These are my specs
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...ame=c02992729&jumpid=reg_r1002_auen&lc=en#N33
This is the card
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1617&products_id=27301
I tried updating the motherboard bios and deleting my old videocard drivers, but the computer still wont boot when the new GTX is installed.
I wonder if it has something to do with the small power supply I have in the computer? Its only 300W, but it says thats all the card needs on its system requirements.
Is it possible HP have put a system in place to stop people upgrading parts? Kinda like how they dont like people using 3rd party ink cartridges on their printers. Maybe I just got a faulty card? I'd have to be pretty unlucky for that to happen I'd imagine.
I sent an email to the online retailer, so if no one here has any suggestions, I hope they can help me.
These are my specs
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...ame=c02992729&jumpid=reg_r1002_auen&lc=en#N33
This is the card
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1617&products_id=27301
I tried updating the motherboard bios and deleting my old videocard drivers, but the computer still wont boot when the new GTX is installed.
I wonder if it has something to do with the small power supply I have in the computer? Its only 300W, but it says thats all the card needs on its system requirements.
Is it possible HP have put a system in place to stop people upgrading parts? Kinda like how they dont like people using 3rd party ink cartridges on their printers. Maybe I just got a faulty card? I'd have to be pretty unlucky for that to happen I'd imagine.
I sent an email to the online retailer, so if no one here has any suggestions, I hope they can help me.
Update on my story: they said I could just have a hard drive shipped to my house if I was comfortable installing it myself. Of course I am, so they sent it yesterday and it just arrived right now. Super quick turnaround, I gotta say.
My question is this, as I haven't installed a hard drive in years: it's in one of those metal baggies to prevent static or whatever. What precautions should I be taking before I even unwrap it? I'm going to spray out the inside of the tower, and I know the hard drive is a few screws and a couple of cables to remove. But for the new one, is there anything special I should be doing while I handle it? I'd hate to damage it before I even fire it up and see that it's okay.
[edit - it's done and back in what appears to be working order. Didn't need to call tech support or anything, wooooo]
My question is this, as I haven't installed a hard drive in years: it's in one of those metal baggies to prevent static or whatever. What precautions should I be taking before I even unwrap it? I'm going to spray out the inside of the tower, and I know the hard drive is a few screws and a couple of cables to remove. But for the new one, is there anything special I should be doing while I handle it? I'd hate to damage it before I even fire it up and see that it's okay.
[edit - it's done and back in what appears to be working order. Didn't need to call tech support or anything, wooooo]
Hi tech-intelligent GAF:
I bought a Acer laptop a few months ago used, and it seems the hard drive is struggling. Hard. chkdsk froze at 10% struggling, for instance. It's my main system, so I can't afford to be without it long.
What I want to do is:
1) Take the data on the hard drive as it exists now and clone it onto my external USB drive. Complication: The external is 500GB, the internal is a TB (though I'm only using ~50GB on the internal)
2) Swap in a replacement 1TB drive
3) Restore from the external drive to the replacement
Is that sequence possible? If so, what's the easiest way to do it?
I bought a Acer laptop a few months ago used, and it seems the hard drive is struggling. Hard. chkdsk froze at 10% struggling, for instance. It's my main system, so I can't afford to be without it long.
What I want to do is:
1) Take the data on the hard drive as it exists now and clone it onto my external USB drive. Complication: The external is 500GB, the internal is a TB (though I'm only using ~50GB on the internal)
2) Swap in a replacement 1TB drive
3) Restore from the external drive to the replacement
Is that sequence possible? If so, what's the easiest way to do it?
Download gparted live.
1. gparted to shrink the partition size of C:\.
2. dd to create two images, one of your C:\ partition and one of the ~100Mb (or so) boot partition.
3. gparted to create the partitions on the new disk, obviously they must be big enough for the images.
4. dd to restore the images to the new disk.
5. Boot on a windows install medium and repair mbr on the new disk.
6. gparted to expand the partition to fill the whole disk
A Human Becoming
More than a Member
Not exactly looking for support, but it seems OpenDNS completely failed me tonight. I was quite shocked the troubleshooter pointed to the DNS not responding, not even the backup. I'm guessing the hiccups yesterday were related, as the wifi was not shown to be disconnected. Router IP config page was also slow to load, but I'm not sure why.
I switched the secondary to Google's DNS. Any others recommended?
I'm guessing the hiccups yesterday were related, as the wifi was not shown to be disconnected. Router IP config page was also slow to load, but I'm not sure why. I switched the secondary to Google's DNS. Any others recommended?
Ok, this isn't exactly a tech support question, more that I'm looking for some kind of tool or software.
So, Windows has this really annoying behavior when changing resolutions. Icons on the desktop get scattered all over the damn place. This happens all the time on my work computer, because it's a laptop that docks and hooks up to two monitors, so anytime I undock it, bam, icons everywhere.
Basically what I'm looking for is either a tool that prevents this, or that helps recover from it. Like, if I could run something real quick when I dock my laptop, that puts everything back in the right place, that'd be awesome.
I've tried out Fences, but it has some really annoying aspects that I don't like. Any other suggestions?
So, Windows has this really annoying behavior when changing resolutions. Icons on the desktop get scattered all over the damn place. This happens all the time on my work computer, because it's a laptop that docks and hooks up to two monitors, so anytime I undock it, bam, icons everywhere.
Basically what I'm looking for is either a tool that prevents this, or that helps recover from it. Like, if I could run something real quick when I dock my laptop, that puts everything back in the right place, that'd be awesome.
I've tried out Fences, but it has some really annoying aspects that I don't like. Any other suggestions?
I can't help but comiserate Cyan. My ultimate solution was to place icons in folders, at the top of the screen, so they don't get affected by resolution changes.
I do have my own request for advice. I have been tasked with looking into buying a domain for our small club, and put up a basic website with contact info and meeting schedule. Nothing fancy, nothing special. SHould I go through someone like godaddy, or what are some of the better registrars and basic web providers out there?
Here's a great post. Seems to be a pita to remove. Basically you'll have to run several scanners.
http://malwaretips.com/blogs/deal4me-virus-removal/
Go to your program folder and delete the deal4me folder. After that, reboot and then run adwcleaner.
Consequence
Member
Hey all, I need some web browser help. A month or so ago Chrome stopped rendering pages completely, including settings, flags, and anything that would let me try to troubleshoot much at all. I believe it's a GPU issue but can't turn off the GPU rendering flag to be sure. Reinstalling doesn't help. I used Comodo Dragon for a bit since it's based on Chrome and let me carry over all of my data but eventually ran into the same issue. I've been using CoolNovo for the last week but it's way out of date and I can't install extensions to it at all. Torch Browser doesn't work for me either.
I miss Chromecast. Can anyone point me to a few Chromium browsers that aren't security risks and let me install extensions from the Chrome store? I'm finding it tough to get up-to-date info on a lot of the ones out there.
Alternatively, if you have any idea what's causing the rendering issue, that'd be great. I THINK it has something to do with my laptop switching from integrated graphics to discrete but the browsers don't work on either graphics card.
I miss Chromecast. Can anyone point me to a few Chromium browsers that aren't security risks and let me install extensions from the Chrome store? I'm finding it tough to get up-to-date info on a lot of the ones out there.
Alternatively, if you have any idea what's causing the rendering issue, that'd be great. I THINK it has something to do with my laptop switching from integrated graphics to discrete but the browsers don't work on either graphics card.
having some problems with gaming sometimes. My skype call with friends is perfect and uninterrupted but games like dota 2 just show the red auto disconnect error, and starcraft 2 also lags out; both situations occur to disconnect me from the game unless I manually disable the network in network connections and then reenable it.
Cow Mengde
Banned
I need help. I just installed Verizon FIOS in my house and while my wired connection is beautiful, my wifi is getting only 1/10th the speed.
1. There are NO other people in the house using wifi. I was the only one.
2. I had wifi before at slower speeds, but the speed was the same whether its wifi or wired.
3. I have full bars on my connection.
1. There are NO other people in the house using wifi. I was the only one.
2. I had wifi before at slower speeds, but the speed was the same whether its wifi or wired.
3. I have full bars on my connection.
Try to changing channels on the router?
Hi GAF
I have recently been having issues with a Wireless Printer and the issues seems to have been fixed but I got some instructions for some wireless settings that should help prevent more problems in the future.
Basically, I need to use/enable PGM mode on my wireless router. I have a Netgear WNDR3800 and cannot seem to find the option nor can I really find much of any information on what this actually does.
Any help or alternative suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I also have a ticket from Netgear support pending asking the same question but from past experiences these guys are not great.
I have recently been having issues with a Wireless Printer and the issues seems to have been fixed but I got some instructions for some wireless settings that should help prevent more problems in the future.
Basically, I need to use/enable PGM mode on my wireless router. I have a Netgear WNDR3800 and cannot seem to find the option nor can I really find much of any information on what this actually does.
Any help or alternative suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I also have a ticket from Netgear support pending asking the same question but from past experiences these guys are not great.
Captain Chaos
Member
Gaf, please help. I cannot for the life of me locate a 10 pin (PSU end) to 2 x 6 pin (Graphics card) modular power supply lead. This is to connect a Antec High Current Pro 850W Power Supply to a XFX R9 270X Graphicss card.
In the image below you can see the 10 pin socket in red that the lead would go into
Does anyone know anywhere that supplies such a lead?
I would as a last resort consider getting the crimpers out and making my own lead but even then I'm not sure which lead goes where...
In the image below you can see the 10 pin socket in red that the lead would go into
Does anyone know anywhere that supplies such a lead?
I would as a last resort consider getting the crimpers out and making my own lead but even then I'm not sure which lead goes where...
Gaf, please help. I cannot for the life of me locate a 10 pin (PSU end) to 2 x 6 pin (Graphics card) modular power supply lead. This is to connect a Antec High Current Pro 850W Power Supply to a XFX R9 270X Graphicss card.
In the image below you can see the 10 pin socket in red that the lead would go into
Does anyone know anywhere that supplies such a lead?
I would as a last resort consider getting the crimpers out and making my own lead but even then I'm not sure which lead goes where...
From my research, the image you posted is not for the PSU you listed. But in any case, Antec can send you appropriate cables, contact them here:
http://www.antec.com/Events/us/EuStore/
Or their support department directly.
Drivers can cause issues with restore. What's the make/model?
Captain Chaos
Member
Thanks AndyD, just double checked the PSU model number is a HCP-850. The image I posted was just off the net and my PSU looks exactly the same. I have tried that Antec form but got nothing back from them. I'll try again.
Thanks again
edit: moddiy got in contact with me and said they'd make the lead for £10 delivered, so lets see.
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Need some help.
I have a Windows 8.1 OEM copy on my laptop. No optical drive. I went to do a full refresh via recovery, but it says some files are missing and to insert media.
All guides I've found to solve this are for non-OEM licenses. Anyone know what to do?
I have a Windows 8.1 OEM copy on my laptop. No optical drive. I went to do a full refresh via recovery, but it says some files are missing and to insert media.
All guides I've found to solve this are for non-OEM licenses. Anyone know what to do?
Hey guys,
So I have a computer setup that's receiving syslog messages from a firewall. I'm using splunk and it's getting the messages with no problem. However, I'm not able to connect to outside websites via firefox. Network diagnostics says "Your computer appears to be configured correctly, but the device or resource (microsoft.com) is not responding."
I've checked all the network settings and everything does seem to check out. The DNS servers I have entered are correct. Anyone have any ideas why I can't connect to the outside?
So I have a computer setup that's receiving syslog messages from a firewall. I'm using splunk and it's getting the messages with no problem. However, I'm not able to connect to outside websites via firefox. Network diagnostics says "Your computer appears to be configured correctly, but the device or resource (microsoft.com) is not responding."
I've checked all the network settings and everything does seem to check out. The DNS servers I have entered are correct. Anyone have any ideas why I can't connect to the outside?
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
OK, new problem!
This is a 100% fresh installation of Windows 8.1 and my drive is nearly full. Any idea on what's up?
This is a 100% fresh installation of Windows 8.1 and my drive is nearly full. Any idea on what's up?
nicoga3000
Saint Nic
Yeah you can, it has files from the previous version of windows that aren't needed anymore. It's just there in case you need to go back to the older version for some reason.
You can read this if you want:
http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/how-to/windows/3490793/how-delete-windowsold-folder/