Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

Alright, so I have to install windows 7 (ugh) and download and update new drivers for the system (for my school course), what is the fastest way I can do this? anybody wanna recommend a good program, as Windows Update is disabled for the time being.

I tried using lenovo's in-house program, but it doesn't wanna work

It's a Lenovo ThinkCentre M82 3395-B14.

EIT: googled it, going with DriverEasy.. thanks for nothing..
 
Face it Tiger.. said:
thanks for nothing..
Click to expand...

... That`s pretty unnecessary for free help on a video game forum. You should always lead with your own research, rather than expecting others to do it for you.

http://support.lenovo.com/ca/en/?me...,_tablet,_workstation_and_thinkserver_support

All drivers will be available from the manufacturer support section. You would just put your model number in that page which will bring you to this page

http://support.lenovo.com/ca/en/pro...thinkcentre-m-series-desktops/thinkcentre-m82

I think most people would prefer to find and control the driver install themselves, rather than trust a doitall program. But, to each their own.
 
EDIT: Resolved, thanks.

Probably something I should already know, but I messed up the display settings somehow and need to fix.

Basically, the aspect ratio or whatever is all messed up and I have two huge black bars on the sides of my laptop now. Almost as if I'm watching an old 4:3 tv show on a widescreen tv.

Help?

EDIT: I knew I should have been more patient trying to find settings on Windows 10. For whatever reason I figured they removed the display/resolution settings, or that I couldn't find them. Eventually figured it out. I'm sure I'll need your guys' help on a more serious matter in the future.
 
Not necessarily a tech SUPPORT question, but couldn't think of a better place to ask.

I built a PC in ~2011, and last year, converted it to a Hackintosh. I'm getting tired of all the driver issues, etc, so I'm thinking of going against my standard morals and just buying a legitimate iMac.

I'm trying to think of what to do with my custom-built tower then. I want to sell it to hopefully make some cash back, but I'm not sure how easy it is to sell a custom computer, or if I'm better off just selling the components individually. I'm in Canada, so the only option I can think for selling it would be Kijiji, unless someone knows of a better way.

I'm also not sure what I should be charging.

Asus Z77 Extreme4 Motherboard
i7 Ivy Bridge 3770K (8M Cache, up to 3.90 GHz)
Gigabyte AMD Radeon HD 7950 (3GB VRAM)
8 GB 1333 MHz DDR3 RAM
HDD size TBD — may want to keep some of my drives (this tower has 4), but will probably be 1TB. Possibly incl. 64GB SSD.

Any advice?
 
GtwoK said:
Not necessarily a tech SUPPORT question, but couldn't think of a better place to ask.

I built a PC in ~2011, and last year, converted it to a Hackintosh. I'm getting tired of all the driver issues, etc, so I'm thinking of going against my standard morals and just buying a legitimate iMac.

I'm trying to think of what to do with my custom-built tower then. I want to sell it to hopefully make some cash back, but I'm not sure how easy it is to sell a custom computer, or if I'm better off just selling the components individually. I'm in Canada, so the only option I can think for selling it would be Kijiji, unless someone knows of a better way.

I'm also not sure what I should be charging.

Asus Z77 Extreme4 Motherboard
i7 Ivy Bridge 3770K (8M Cache, up to 3.90 GHz)
Gigabyte AMD Radeon HD 7950 (3GB VRAM)
8 GB 1333 MHz DDR3 RAM
HDD size TBD — may want to keep some of my drives (this tower has 4), but will probably be 1TB. Possibly incl. 64GB SSD.

Any advice?
Click to expand...

You could ask in the Canada thread. Fuck I wish I could get your 3770K off you. Where in Canada are you based? Basically, the breakdown is as follows for what I kinda consider regular prices for your stuff.

Motherbaord: 60-80
CPU: 250+
Video Card: 120-140
Ram: 30-40
64gig SSD: 25-30. 1TB: 40-50

If you do end up posting it on Kijiji just add all those numbers together. It would also be worth searching for your components on your local kijiji to see what they go for in your area.

Word of Hackintosh advice: Gigabyte motherboards and Nvidia video cards. Makes everything go so much smoother.
 
Just an update regarding the spyware problem I had: I uninstalled Chrome, ran Roguekiller, and then reinstalled Chrome and now I'm spyware free. Fuck Jdownloader.
 
ElTopo said:
Just an update regarding the spyware problem I had: I uninstalled Chrome, ran Roguekiller, and then reinstalled Chrome and now I'm spyware free. Fuck Jdownloader.
Click to expand...

Congrats on getting that fixed, but wow, that was some battle you had with that adware. Glad Rogue Killer helped you out, it's a go-to app that has not failed me yet.
 
My PC has been acting up since yesterday.

I was playing MGSVand all of a sudden, I lost video. I tried turning my TV on and off several times but no luck. It happens every time I start a game or a benchmark. I stress tested the CPU and it doesn't crash, so I suspect its the GPU.

Anybody know how I could fix this? Do I have to RMA the GPU?
 
oxidax said:
My PC has been acting up since yesterday.

I was playing MGSVand all of a sudden, I lost video. I tried turning my TV on and off several times but no luck. It happens every time I start a game or a benchmark. I stress tested the CPU and it doesn't crash, so I suspect its the GPU.

Anybody know how I could fix this? Do I have to RMA the GPU?
Click to expand...

Download a free graphics benchmark program to test it to be sure. If you're GPU is still under warranty, then yes, RMA that thing as quick as you can.
 
Right, so this one is super annoying.

W10 64bit

PC repeatedly making the usb removed, inserted sound, several times a day. It drives me insane and I have no idea what it is or how to stop it.

Please help!
 
Need a hand with something kind of simple:

I installed a 500GB SSD and want to make it my primary. My computer sees it, I can access it, there's no problems there. But I want to make the SSD the primary boot drive. I went into Bios and have it selected but I (obviously) need the OS installed on it.

How do I move everything over to the SSD or do I have to reinstall 7 on it and manually move everything over?
 
Having a weird issue. Yesterday, everything was working fine.

Today, no media will play on my laptop. Youtube videos, IGN videos, even a commentary track over on RedLetterMedia. Just freezes at 0:00 on Chrome or I get a "an error has occurred" message on Internet Explorer

Everything works fine on my iPad and iPhone. Only my laptop is having this issue

I'm on Windows 8.1

Edit: even podcasts and music I have downloaded won't play. Spotify client works though, as do trailers on the Steam client
Edit2: nvm, restarted my laptop and everything's working properly
 
Tech support GAF you may be my last hope.. I erroneously attempted to upgrade to Windows 10.

It failed. Now my PC is stuck in a reboot loop trying to restore the previous version of Windows, (7) and I don't know what to do. I have no kind of back up for Windows at all. I tried google and attempted the F8 then go into "advanced settings" but I don't seem to have that option on my PC. I can change boot drives or go into the bios.

Pls help GAF
 
Isaccard said:
Tech support GAF you may be my last hope.. I erroneously attempted to upgrade to Windows 10.

It failed. Now my PC is stuck in a reboot loop trying to restore the previous version of Windows, (7) and I don't know what to do. I have no kind of back up for Windows at all. I tried google and attempted the F8 then go into "advanced settings" but I don't seem to have that option on my PC. I can change boot drives or go into the bios.

Pls help GAF
Click to expand...

Yeah, that sounds like you need the boot DVD and reinstall Windows.
 
Ok I think my video card is fried but I'm not really sure. My screen looks like when an old NES game is all fucked up.

Can I just buy a new video card and my problem will be solved? I really just want to get all the old stuff off my hard drive, but I can't do that since I can't see anything.
 
The Mango Sentinel said:
Ok I think my video card is fried but I'm not really sure. My screen looks like when an old NES game is all fucked up.

Can I just buy a new video card and my problem will be solved? I really just want to get all the old stuff off my hard drive, but I can't do that since I can't see anything.
Click to expand...

Sounds like it, does the screen only look distorted when entering into windows or is the bios messed up as well?

If your video card is truly the culprit then a new video card will most likely solve your problem. If your motherboard has integrated graphics you should be able to use that in-place of an dedicated video card.

However if you don't want to invest in a new card you can just hook up the hard drive to another computer and transfer the files manually (assuming you didn't encrypt your drive). Most of your personal files should be located in c:\users\Your-username
 
Spladam said:
Download a free graphics benchmark program to test it to be sure. If you're GPU is still under warranty, then yes, RMA that thing as quick as you can.
Click to expand...

I just opened a game with the mobo's graphic chip and the display didnt shut off. Definitely a GPU problem. Thanks!
 
Hey Guys,
got a problem since Windows 10:

Okay first at all: This Problem occures sometimes - mostly when switching out of the Game and back in.... or Record via shadowplay.

The next thing is - if i record the game via shadowplay - its NOT on the record.

Soooo i tried to record it with my phone, a soon as its appeared (It appears in every game - sometimes more frequent sometimes less):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWoYzTq023E&feature=youtu.be

i personally think its a Windows 10 problem with the graphics overlay/driver/whatsoever... or like a vsync error?


More Details about my rig and config:

Core i7 3770k - 4.0 Ghz
16 GB GeiL DDR 3 Ram 1600
EVGA Gtx 970 superclocked
Games on a SSD: Samsung 840 Pro
Had Windows 8 without problems, since the upgrade to 10 - the problem appeared.

Games playing in Fullscreen/Borderless windowmode. (But even in Fullscreen oder Windowed i got this issue)

Has somebody occured the same behaviour ? or got anyone any solution to this?

Thanks in advance and sorry for my bad english, have mercy im from austria actually ;)

EDIT//: Monitor is a DELL U2515H with a Resolution of 1440p and connected via Displayport
 
oneran said:
Sounds like it, does the screen only look distorted when entering into windows or is the bios messed up as well?

If your video card is truly the culprit then a new video card will most likely solve your problem. If your motherboard has integrated graphics you should be able to use that in-place of an dedicated video card.

However if you don't want to invest in a new card you can just hook up the hard drive to another computer and transfer the files manually (assuming you didn't encrypt your drive). Most of your personal files should be located in c:usersYour-username
Click to expand...
Yeah bios looks like shit most of the time as well.

Hmmm I might just hook up the hard drive to another computer. Though it's been so long since I've taken a computer apart that I'm probably gonna be stumbling all over the place trying to figure all of this out.
 
So, um, I'm not sure if this is the best place to post this, but it didn't seem like it deserved it's own thread.

I have a new neogaf message that I can't read! As in, the icon at the top of the website says I have one new message, but if I click on it, there are no new messages to be found!

I tried sending a message to myself in the hopes that might fix it somehow; it didn't. The icon changed from a "1" to a "2", and the message I'd sent to myself appeared in my inbox as normal. After I read the message, it changed back to a "1".

This is driving me crazy!
 
inafking said:
Hi, sorry if this has been asked before. I was browsing some pictures in a SD card through an SD card reader on a macbook, but suddenly the drive was disconnected.

Then, I absent-mindedly pulled it off and reconnected it in hope that the drive gets connected again but as soon as I open the drive it shows as empty.

To make things worse, when I connected the card to a windows laptop the first thing I did was to choose "repair drive" when the fix dialog popped up.

I've tried to recover files with Recuva and Rest2514.exe but to no avail. The best I got was that I recoverd about 300 files (from about 4000) and all of them were zero filled files (I saw them with XVI32 and there were only zeros in the contents of the files).

Am I screwed? Are all the pictures really "zeroed" in the SD card?

I hope you can bring me some ray of hope.
Greets!

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Windows's repair drive thingy should have created some hidden folders on the SD card called "FOUND.XXX" where the X's are numbers. Your Mac's terminal, for example, should be able to see them.

Inside of these folders will be files with strange names and no extension, but they (should) contain (pieces of) your images.
 
I just got the Capcom Humble Bundle for Re5 and played it for like half an hour. When I came out, my MacBook Pro (mid-2012 running Windows 7) was kinda hot and running slowly. I figured that I'd just restart the computer and make it run at good speed again, but still a bit slow. I installed a temperature monitor on it, and it must've cooled somewhat cause the cores were "only" from like 87-93 degrees C when I did, even though I've seen intensive tasks push it to like 102 in the past. Any tips on how I can play RE5 in the future without frying the Macbook (I guess if "wait till you get another computer" is the only option, I can, but I did pay for this game.)
 
I've got a Lenovo Y40-70 laptop that I haven't had any issues with, except for one, it's minor but worrying.

When I go into the BIOS, within a few seconds the keyboard stops responding. This happens every time and even if I'm using a USB keyboard.

Edit: Nevermind. I'm not sure what I did, besides installing the Intel Chipset Drivers, which I wouldn't have thought would have affected the keyboard in BIOS, but everything is working now.
 
Link1110 said:
I just got the Capcom Humble Bundle for Re5 and played it for like half an hour. When I came out, my MacBook Pro (mid-2012 running Windows 7) was kinda hot and running slowly. I figured that I'd just restart the computer and make it run at good speed again, but still a bit slow. I installed a temperature monitor on it, and it must've cooled somewhat cause the cores were "only" from like 87-93 degrees C when I did, even though I've seen intensive tasks push it to like 102 in the past. Any tips on how I can play RE5 in the future without frying the Macbook (I guess if "wait till you get another computer" is the only option, I can, but I did pay for this game.)
Click to expand...

I'm not sure about macs, but in regular PC's those kind of temperatures are definitely cause for alarm. In laptops the cause of temperatures like this is usually heatsinks clogged up with dust and old and dry thermal paste. Fixing this on regular laptops is usually pretty simple (though it does void the warranty), with macs though I'm sure it's a little more involved as they tend to be fairly closed up systems.

But yeah, you need to open up you laptop, remove the heatsinks and thoroughly clean them and replace the thermal paste.
 
I bought a modem to work with Comcast... the Motorola SB6141.

My GF and I just bought a house and the previous tenants left behind a Motorola SBG6580. This model looks to retail for $50 more than the SB6141 but the reviews aren't as good. Any opinion on which one I should keep?

edit: oh... it seems the SBG6580 is also a router. Can I just not use the router portion of the SBG6580 as I already have one? and otherwise they should be about the same performance?
 
I can't seem to get programs to run at startup in Windows 10. I want to run RealTemp automatically. I have gone to shell:startup and placed a shortcut there, but the program will not start. I have tried creating a scheduled task for all users to run the program at login, but it will not start. I install my programs on a higher-capacity drive instead of my SSD, so the file is located in D:\Programs\RealTemp\. I'm not sure if that is causing the problem, or if there is something else I need to do.

Also, I'm having an issue with power profiles. If I change to the High Performance profile, Task Manager and RealTemp both show my CPU at 100% load, and temperatures are about 45°-50°, but I don't notice any negative impact on performance. If I switch to the Balanced power profile, then CPU utilization is normal, and goes down to 1% or so when idle, with temps at 32°-35°, and going up to 45°-50° under load. Is this normal? I don't remember the constant 100% cpu utilization before, and only noticed it when my CPU cooler failed, which happened to coincide with a Windows Update a couple weeks ago.
 
I built a new computer about 7 months ago and I've been having problems with it. One day my son was playing around and he had unplugged the computer a few times. The last time he unplugged it the computer would not come on at all. When I looked inside my computer I noticed some of the rubber coverings on the back of my case were pushed in but I don't know if my son had touched anything inside the case such as the motherboard. At first I started removing the parts and putting them back in normally and the computer would turn on but it wouldn't boot. My gpu has 3 fans and only one of them would run while the second fan would attempt to run and the third not turning on at all. The cpu fan would make a weak noise like it was running but it still wasn't running at the speed it should for boot up. I posted at other tech sites and I was told it may be that my power supply may of got shorted out and/or my motherboard may have short circuited.

I ended up buying a new psu and motherboard and my computer still does not run. When I plug up the motherboard to the power supply by itself, my pc turns on but then cycles continuously. the case fans and lights turn on, all the fans on my gpu turn on, cpu fans turn on as well. Now as soon as I plug anything else into the power supply and try to turn it on nothing happens at all.

I've tried taking the pc apart and putting it back together. I've tried pluggin things in individually and nothing really happens. I'm at a loss for what I'm doing wrong and how to fix my pc. Hopefully some of y'all can help me.
 
Futureman said:
I bought a modem to work with Comcast... the Motorola SB6141.

My GF and I just bought a house and the previous tenants left behind a Motorola SBG6580. This model looks to retail for $50 more than the SB6141 but the reviews aren't as good. Any opinion on which one I should keep?

edit: oh... it seems the SBG6580 is also a router. Can I just not use the router portion of the SBG6580 as I already have one? and otherwise they should be about the same performance?
Click to expand...

The more expensive one is only more expensive because it has the built-in router functionality. I've also heard good things about the SB6141, and I tend to avoid all-in-one modems that include router functionality as I find that the convenience isn't worth the limited functionality (I've hated how locked down the Actiontec AIO routers from Telus were when it came to setting up my home network), but I am a power user that occasionally uses the not-so-common features of my high end Asus router. If you want something that "just works" and don't want to deal with the fuss and setup of a separate router, then use the SBG6580. If you prefer better performance or extra features, keep the SB6141 and use a separate router.

At least for me, my experience is that my ISP would never allow you to disable the built-in router function and only act as a modem. That function is known as bridge mode but I'm not familiar with Comcast so I wouldn't know. I'm reading through Newegg reviews and at least one of the two star reviews from 2012 says that Comcast doesn't allow bridging with a separate router for the SBG6580.

Also, most of the negative reviews of the SBG6580 seem to have to do with the wifi router functionality dying or not able to be configured the way the user wanted it to be.

Link1110 said:
I just got the Capcom Humble Bundle for Re5 and played it for like half an hour. When I came out, my MacBook Pro (mid-2012 running Windows 7) was kinda hot and running slowly. I figured that I'd just restart the computer and make it run at good speed again, but still a bit slow. I installed a temperature monitor on it, and it must've cooled somewhat cause the cores were "only" from like 87-93 degrees C when I did, even though I've seen intensive tasks push it to like 102 in the past. Any tips on how I can play RE5 in the future without frying the Macbook (I guess if "wait till you get another computer" is the only option, I can, but I did pay for this game.)
Click to expand...

Get a cooling stand/fan/pad? Clean out the inside if it's accessible? There's not really much you can do.

ElTopo said:
Need a hand with something kind of simple:

I installed a 500GB SSD and want to make it my primary. My computer sees it, I can access it, there's no problems there. But I want to make the SSD the primary boot drive. I went into Bios and have it selected but I (obviously) need the OS installed on it.

How do I move everything over to the SSD or do I have to reinstall 7 on it and manually move everything over?
Click to expand...

These two guides will help you.

http://www.howtogeek.com/199068/how-to-upgrade-your-existing-hard-drive-in-under-an-hour/
http://www.howtogeek.com/97242/how-to-migrate-windows-7-to-a-solid-state-drive/
 
Any reason why I have to suddenly use the "rigorous display detection" option, in Nvidia Control Panel, the past few days for win10 to detect my second monitor?

Been having a weird issue ever since I swapped cases.

The second monitor works when I boot up and log into windows, but I can't pinpoint for sure when it stops working.
 
RS4- said:
Any reason why I have to suddenly use the "rigorous display detection" option, in Nvidia Control Panel, the past few days for win10 to detect my second monitor?

Been having a weird issue ever since I swapped cases.

The second monitor works when I boot up and log into windows, but I can't pinpoint for sure when it stops working.
Click to expand...

Win 7 would do the same thing to me if my second monitor used a converter on the output, the NVIDIA "rigorous display detection" of course just frequently updates the detection, this may or may not be improved in the near future so you don't have to use it, but there is also the Winkey + P hotkey that brings up the quick multi monitor selection, and when I would bring my second display back up with that in the past, I would have no more problems for the rest of the session. Can't tell you why.
 
My parents bought on of those dell all-in-ones (don't ask) where the computer is IN the monitor. It was like $299 last black friday, 4GB ram, windows 8, etc. Should have at least been decent for what they need (word processor, internet, storing pictures, etc.). The problem? It's amazingly slow and it always has been. I have an old windows 8 tablet that I bought off cowboom that runs faster with 2GB of ram. Any ideas? Should I reinstall windows for them and upgrade to W10? Thanks in advance!
 
BumRush said:
My parents bought on of those dell all-in-ones (don't ask) where the computer is IN the monitor. It was like $299 last black friday, 4GB ram, windows 8, etc. Should have at least been decent for what they need (word processor, internet, storing pictures, etc.). The problem? It's amazingly slow and it always has been. I have an old windows 8 tablet that I bought off cowboom that runs faster with 2GB of ram. Any ideas? Should I reinstall windows for them and upgrade to W10? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Depends on what's exactly wrong. How is it slow? Slow to load websites? Could be a problem with the internet connection or home network. Slow to load programs and files? Could be a slow storage drive and would be remedied with a replacement SSD. Slow when a bunch of programs are open and/or trying to perform certain tasks? Could be slow processor and/or limited RAM.

Reinstalling Windows may or may not work, perhaps if there's bloatware that's dragging down the PC.
 
Hello techsupport GAF!

Unfortunately i'm facing BSOD with this error recently (System exception error netio.sys) and i'm unaware/don't remember what might be causing it.

I read that drivers might be an issue, and I didn't have a system restore point prior to the updates I made, thanks windows 10 :(

I don't think RAM should be the cause here, and it only started recently. Could anyone please help me out?

I've uploaded my minidump files here: http://www.mediafire.com/download/k3k9qn20tuadwpx/Minidump.rar
 
Hey guys, I'm trying to connect my friend's PC to my wireless connection with ICS. It was easy enough in Windows 7, but since I upgraded to Windows 10 I can't seem to find how to achieve this.

My friend is still on Windows 7 and has IPv4 set to automatically obtain an IP. Any help would be appreciated!

I've tried this (which is for Windows 7, but I managed to replicate it all under Windows 10) but it didn't work.
 
I haven't used a mac in a while but does anyone know what format my USB drive needs to be read, copy and write to it?

It is currently EXT4 but I can format it.
 
Persona7 said:
I haven't used a mac in a while but does anyone know what format my USB drive needs to be read, copy and write to it?

It is currently EXT4 but I can format it.
Click to expand...

HFS+ is the partition format OSX uses. If you want to "share this drive" with different OSes the best format would be NTFS.
Fat 32 have size limit from what i remember.
 
purdobol said:
HFS+ is the partition format OSX uses. If you want to "share this drive" with different OSes the best format would be NTFS.
Fat 32 have size limit from what i remember.
Click to expand...

I won't need to share it anymore and it is just my password database so it will work for now but this information is good for my other storage devices. Thanks.
 
Argh, I've been getting a crapton of BSODs lately. My PC has been stable aside from the occasional voltage overclock-related crash for about 3 years now, but for whatever reason it just went completely haywire a few weeks ago.

It's a 2500K cpu setup without nothing particularly out of the ordinary.


What I have done so far:

1. Reset BIOS to defaults with and without XMP.

2. Reinstalled Windows 7 which didn't help at all.

3. Upgraded Win7 to Win10 which worked flawlessly and for about a full week completely solved all of my issues (go figure).

4. BSODs re-appeared seemingly for no reason, I've even gone as far as to using the built in OC Tuner in the BIOS just to see if some random voltage settings etc would solve it, but it doesn't seem like it. It did up the base clock to 103.0 and I've put it back down to 100.0 now, but I doubt that's going to change much.

5. Ran memtest86 for 10 hours and looked through the logs via WhoCrashed.

6. Done virus scans with Windows Defender/MSE as well as BitDefender. While they did find things that are most likely false positives and removed them, it didn't solve my issue with the BSODs. I will say that my PC had been acting pretty damn strange lately and that a trojan hidden away isn't completely unlikely.


Here's what I've learned:

WhoCrashed states that the crashes are not related to any third-party drivers nor are they related to the hardware. Memtest passed with zero errors after running for 10 hours which probably means my RAM sticks are fine, I presume? Most crashes seem to relate to errors within the Windows Kernel. You'd think this would be solved by reinstalling Windows from scratch on a formatted drive, but nope, its still happening. If there is a trojan around, perhaps it quickly re-infected the new installation? I'm not sure.

So yeah, if anyone has any clue as to what could be going on here and what further steps I should attempt in order to solve this, please let me know, preferably via PM so I don't miss any posts here.
 
I had one because of a dying HDD recently, so you might want to check that? Get something like CrystalDiskInfo and look at the SMART data.
 
Oh shit, it does return a "Caution" under health status for my WD Black drive. It did also make some weird noises a while back, so I guess some parts of it probably died at that point? The warnings are on ID C5 and C6, relating to sector counts whatever that means. I guess I might as well order a new drive which I was planning to do either way in hopes of that fixing it. Any other suggestions in the meantime?
 
New problem with Windows 10...

My computer was running fine, installing some background updates (including display drivers for the integrated chip I think), when all of a sudden the desktop went completely black, save for the mouse cursor. The screen is still technically on, the mouse is functional, and from the way it reacts Windows is still working - I can see the mouse cursor change depending on where I move it.

I've tried restarting the computer and changing the display monitor with Windows + P as some sites suggest, to no avail. I've managed to boot into the BIOS though.

Is there a keyboard sequence I can type blind to help me fix the problem? This is my work computer, so I'd like to avoid having to redo a full W10 install if I can help it. I'm pretty sure the problem is fixable, I just don't know what exactly to do. At any rate I'm assuming it has to do with those display drivers (the computer also has a dedicated GPU, FYI).

[EDIT] Nevermind, looks like it fixed itself. After rebooting a few times and trying a few blind manipulations (no idea whether those worked out), the screen turned grey on the login screen (?), then went back to normal after a few seconds. No idea what caused it to stop being dumb though. Thanks anyway!
 
I've got another Problem,

ive build a new Rig for my Girlfriends Sister,

Everything went well, i installed Windows 8.1 and everything - BUT - i cant restart the pc...

Everytime i start the PC - it starts normally. BUT

if i Reset (either via the button, the BIOS or from Windows) - the PC shuts down and starts again - EXEPT the screen.

The Screen stays Black - no POST message, no Windows, etc... i need to shut it down (over the power button) and start it "normally" again - to boot anything (bios or windows).

// i tried the Rams in my Rig (works)
// i tried the power supply from my rig (because its more powerful (same problem) so its not the power consumption)
// i unplugged the Graphical card (GTX 960) and tried to restart with the onboard graphics (same problem) - Graphical card works in my Rig like a charm
// ive already changed the Motherboard (at the retailer 1:1) because i thought that was the Problem, but with the new MB - i receive the same problem.

what can i do else?
what is the best possible explanation, which part causes this problem?

sry for my bad english and the long post :(
 
purdobol said:
Run command line as administrator and enter "sfc /scannow".
If that doesn't help check RAM with memtest86.

Did you install any new hardware recently?
Click to expand...

That didn't help. I'll try memtest now.

No, I don't know how to install hardware on a laptop >_>

Edit: Ran memtest. No issue reported.
 
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Fat4all replied
New All You Can Eat Sushi Thread — So Full I May Not Survive the Night
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Resetera reflects: This place sucks. We want GAF back.
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Palliasso replied
MMA-GAF | Interim Thread 7
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manfestival replied
Something wrong with the Funny post thread?
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