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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

Alpende

Member
Quick question about Chrome.

It keeps telling me Shockwave Flash has crashed. I checked the about:plugins and about:conflicts pages. There is only 1 flash plugin and no conflicts, chrome is updated to the latest version.

Any way to fix this?
 

Baleoce

Member
All event Id 41 tells you is that the system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down, it gives you no real insight to your actual problem. Is there any other critical or error events?

Well, it's been happening frequently, so I'll go through the list of errors and criticals from the last 24 hours (seen as it's happened again during that period).

Critical:

Event ID: 41 (Kernel-Power)

Error:

Event ID: 131 (DeviceSetupManager)
Event ID: 6008 (EventLog)
Event ID: 7000, 7009 (Service Control Manager)
Event ID: 10010 (DistributedCOM)

=================

Slightly different behaviour on the last crash in that when I turned my computer back on in the morning, the opening screen told me the overclock and voltage settings had been changed back to defaults (I purchased my computer from scan.co.uk and it was overclocked by them, and tbh it's always been a bit of a problem because the overclocked profile sometimes fails on startup and I have to keep going into the BIOS and manually changing the profile back to the overclock via Load from CMOS. It's a pain because once I tried to add an SSD drive to my computer and it was all going fine, until that overclock profile failed again, and it completely rejected the SSD after that, had to send it back).

I don't know much about these things, but I feel like it might have something to do with voltage or power, but I just don't know where to even start with it all.
 
Ok GAF, I think I've bit off more than I can chew with this one..

I've replaced the power supply on my grandmother's PC but now I can't get it to boot. The motherboard seems to have power, yet every time I try to boot the machine, the cpu fan spins for a few seconds and then it stops.

Here's a video of it:

https://youtu.be/RNnc9Xui_QU

Any theories would be appreciated.. I'm starting to think the power supply I ordered may be faulty
 

ZalXII

Member
I really need your help: Can a defective GPU cause my PC to turn off immidiately and not turning on again, regardless of how much i tried? See full explanation why i ask. Specs first:

GTX 970
i5-4670
16GB
Be Quiet Pure Power L8 630W
MSI B85M-G43 (Mainboard)

Full Explanation:
About 3 weeks ago my pc turned off randomly while playing Half Life 2 Update on Maximum Settings. I couldn't get it to turn on again. After googling, I thought it to be the PSU, since i have still warranty for it, i send it in for test/repair/change and got it back 2 weeks after the incident with no errors found. Great, so again i put everything together aaaand... as expected Nothing. PC does not turn on.

Google (again) said it may be the PCI-E Slot, so i unplugged the GPU entirely and put the hdmi cable in the integrated graphics hdmi slot. Tried, PC turned on without any problems. Tried with GPU again and PC won't run. Hey, we may found the problem. But wait, i remembered having a GTX 650 (MSI 2GB edition) lying around from before i got this new shiny 970. Plugged it in, its one these 650s that requires a 6pin connector from the PSU, aaaand... working like a charm. Well, for 650 performance of course, from stable 30 fps everything max W3 (yes, hair works included) to low + unstable 30fps, but it worked and i've beaten the game anyway 1 week before.

Before the incident, this setup worked without any hitches for a year and i've beaten Half life 2 now on max with my 650.

Summary:
PC works with: GTX 650/Integrated Graphics
PC does not work with: GTX 970 plugged in.
PSU already checked and found to be working as intended by Support company.

So again my intial question: Can a graphics card really be the culprit when a PC does not turn on and why?

EDIT: After watching the video above my post from D1renegade (by the way, i have no clue sry) exactly the same happens for me when i hit the power button with the gtx 970 plugged in. No light, just a second of fans spinning and thats it. But it only happens at the first try and then i have to wait a little to see the same again.
 

XenodudeX

Junior Member
Does anyone know how to fix a Bad Pool Header error? It happends everyday around 2:00-3:30 pm and I have no idea how to fix it. The only thing I've tried right now is updating my drivers.
 

zulux21

Member
edit: fixed my first issue by finding scaling options and underscanning my desktop.

notes:
I just moved to windows 10 with a completely fresh install, I wiped everything and installed the newest video drivers.
video card radeon 6770
tv 37 inch sanyo

also there is another issue I had previously on 7 as well where the screen would randomly flicker black, usually when moving stuff and what not. I am running two monitors, the one connected via DVI doesn't flicker ever, the one connected via HDMI flickers randomly (it's a 37 inch 1080p sanyo tv... cheap tv I know I need to upgrade sometime). it was one of the main reasons I did a fresh install as I figured I screwed up drivers somewhere but I currently have the most current drivers (radeon 6770)

any help with this would be great.
 

xHiryu

Member
TechSupportGAF, I need some help.

I recently upgraded to Windows 10 and the installation went fine. But as the installation finished, my screen goes dark. I'm talking a straight black screen with no cursor or anything. I have manually restarted the PC and it ends up doing the same thing, a few minutes of the actual desktop then into the black screen.

When I was on Windows 7, I had no issues but now I do which sucks. No clue if this is relevant, but I never had genuine Windows before this. Any advice?
 

mrmisterwaa

Neo Member
TechSupportGAF, I need some help.

I recently upgraded to Windows 10 and the installation went fine. But as the installation finished, my screen goes dark. I'm talking a straight black screen with no cursor or anything. I have manually restarted the PC and it ends up doing the same thing, a few minutes of the actual desktop then into the black screen.

When I was on Windows 7, I had no issues but now I do which sucks. No clue if this is relevant, but I never had genuine Windows before this. Any advice?

There were a lot of graphics driver issues when Windows 10 was released. Update all your drivers. If that doesn't work out - remove the graphics card and try booting with the integrated card.

Still no solution. I really don't know what to do about this.

Saw your post regarding the crashing issues.

It is not very common to hardware to die out of the blue without getting some sort of indicator. Too many variables - we can reduce a majority of the driver issues by just doing a full-clean install. The fact that it works fine in safe mode - something installed is causing some sort of issues.
 

Baleoce

Member
Just rummaging through event viewer after the last crash, see if i can pick anything else out that might shine a light on this.

EventID: 2484

Package Microsoft.Windows.ShellExperienceHost_10.0.10586.0_neutral_neutral_cw5n1h2txyewy+App was terminated because it took too long to suspend.
============

I'm seeing a lot of mentions of LogonUI.exe as well.

Faulting application name: LogonUI.exe, version: 10.0.10586.0, time stamp: 0x5632d88c
Faulting module name: Windows.UI.Xaml.dll, version: 10.0.10586.35, time stamp: 0x566505e8

Saw your post regarding the crashing issues.

It is not very common to hardware to die out of the blue without getting some sort of indicator. Too many variables - we can reduce a majority of the driver issues by just doing a full-clean install. The fact that it works fine in safe mode - something installed is causing some sort of issues.

Thanks for the reply, I'll definitely have to give a fresh install a go. The only reason I didn't was because I had the same symptoms on Windows 8.1 before switching over to Windows 10, and it persisted. But that was an upgrade, as opposed to a completely fresh install, so the problem may have been ported over along with the upgrade.

================

Behavioural Notes:

If it crashes once, it will generally crash continuously after rebooting at certain stages, either the logon splash screen or shortly after the desktop has loaded.
However, if I leave it a couple of hours and turn it back on. It seems to recover, until the next seemingly random crash point.
 

xHiryu

Member
There were a lot of graphics driver issues when Windows 10 was released. Update all your drivers. If that doesn't work out - remove the graphics card and try booting with the integrated card.

Well safe mode is working fine, but aside from the Nvidia drivers, where do I find the other drivers on my PC? Also for whatever reason, the settings force closes whenever I select Update and Security. Updating to Windows 10 has been a pain, hopefully all these issues get resolved soon.
 

mrmisterwaa

Neo Member
Just rummaging through event viewer after the last crash, see if i can pick anything else out that might shine a light on this.

EventID: 2484

Package Microsoft.Windows.ShellExperienceHost_10.0.10586.0_neutral_neutral_cw5n1h2txyewy+App was terminated because it took too long to suspend.
============

I'm seeing a lot of mentions of LogonUI.exe as well.

Faulting application name: LogonUI.exe, version: 10.0.10586.0, time stamp: 0x5632d88c
Faulting module name: Windows.UI.Xaml.dll, version: 10.0.10586.35, time stamp: 0x566505e8



Thanks for the reply, I'll definitely have to give a fresh install a go. The only reason I didn't was because I had the same symptoms on Windows 8.1 before switching over to Windows 10, and it persisted. But that was an upgrade, as opposed to a completely fresh install, so the problem may have been ported over along with the upgrade.

================

Behavioural Notes:

If it crashes once, it will generally crash continuously after rebooting at certain stages, either the logon splash screen or shortly after the desktop has loaded.
However, if I leave it a couple of hours and turn it back on. It seems to recover, until the next seemingly random crash point.

Interesting - sounds like something is overheating. Have a quick clean and make sure everything is plugged in right as well.


Well safe mode is working fine, but aside from the Nvidia drivers, where do I find the other drivers on my PC? Also for whatever reason, the settings force closes whenever I select Update and Security. Updating to Windows 10 has been a pain, hopefully all these issues get resolved soon.

A majority of the computer parts have their own separate drivers. You would have to look at each of the pieces and their respective websites and find the drivers using their support pages.

If you got the computer pre-built - the manufacturer will have all of them in the support pages as well.

I had similar issues with the graphics drivers for my Nvidia card when Windows 10 was released.
 

Baleoce

Member
Interesting - sounds like something is overheating. Have a quick clean and make sure everything is plugged in right as well.

That's a good shout, it would explain why after it's left for a long while it doesn't seem to play up.

I'll take out the GPU tomorrow, do a thorough clean, and reseat it. See how that fares. A lot of the crashes do seem to just simply turn the screen off / crash directx and force me to do a hard reboot. Some do kill the OS entirely though.

Starting to suspect perhaps the thermal compound on my MSI GTX 760 is starting to fail. Just a guess though.
 

mrmisterwaa

Neo Member
That's a good shout, it would explain why after it's left for a long while it doesn't seem to play up.

I'll take out the GPU tomorrow, do a thorough clean, and reseat it. See how that fares. A lot of the crashes do seem to just simply turn the screen off / crash directx and force me to do a hard reboot. Some do kill the OS entirely though.

Starting to suspect perhaps the thermal compound on my MSI GTX 760 is starting to fail. Just a guess though.

What is the temperature of the card idle?

It should be no higher than 60 degrees C

Re-adding the thermal compound is easy - you can easily find a video tutorial to help yourself out.
 

Baleoce

Member
What is the temperature of the card idle?

LsG4qg8.gif
jKyQw6c.gif
 

Baleoce

Member
Caught this on camera at the point of a crash:

vPQyWZlh.jpg


Nothing seemingly out of the ordinary there I wouldn't have thought.

Behaviour: Heard a low buzzing sound for a split second. Screen froze and become unresponsive. Games music continued on in the background like nothing was happening. Then about 5ish minutes later the computer decided to restart by itself. I can't lookup event viewer notes right now because it's continuously crashing. I'll give it a couple of hours. But there should be a 5 minute window between the culprit error, and the critical crash events.

EDIT - Only things I can find in event viewer is :

EventID: 10010: "The server {7006698D-2974-4091-A424-85DD0B909E23} did not register with DCOM within the required timeout."
Event ID: 131 "Metadata staging failed, result=0x80070490 for container '{00000000-0000-0000-FFFF-FFFFFFFFFFFF}'"
Event ID: 6008: "The previous system shutdown at 18:45:33 on ‎28/‎12/‎2015 was unexpected."
Event ID: 7000 "The Razer Game Scanner Service service failed to start due to the following error:
The service did not respond to the start or control request in a timely fashion." and " The GamingApp_Service service failed to start due to the following error:
The service did not respond to the start or control request in a timely fashion."
Event ID: 7009 "A timeout was reached (30000 milliseconds) while waiting for the Razer Game Scanner Service service to connect." , "A timeout was reached (30000 milliseconds) while waiting for the GamingApp_Service service to connect." and "A timeout was reached (30000 milliseconds) while waiting for the BingDesktopUpdate service to connect."
 

mrmisterwaa

Neo Member
Caught this on camera at the point of a crash:

vPQyWZlh.jpg


Nothing seemingly out of the ordinary there I wouldn't have thought.

Behaviour: Heard a low buzzing sound for a split second. Screen froze and become unresponsive. Games music continued on in the background like nothing was happening. Then about 5ish minutes later the computer decided to restart by itself. I can't lookup event viewer notes right now because it's continuously crashing. I'll give it a couple of hours. But there should be a 5 minute window between the culprit error, and the critical crash events.

EDIT - Only things I can find in event viewer is :

EventID: 10010: "The server {7006698D-2974-4091-A424-85DD0B909E23} did not register with DCOM within the required timeout."
Event ID: 131 "Metadata staging failed, result=0x80070490 for container '{00000000-0000-0000-FFFF-FFFFFFFFFFFF}'"
Event ID: 6008: "The previous system shutdown at 18:45:33 on ‎28/‎12/‎2015 was unexpected."
Event ID: 7000 "The Razer Game Scanner Service service failed to start due to the following error:
The service did not respond to the start or control request in a timely fashion." and " The GamingApp_Service service failed to start due to the following error:
The service did not respond to the start or control request in a timely fashion."
Event ID: 7009 "A timeout was reached (30000 milliseconds) while waiting for the Razer Game Scanner Service service to connect." , "A timeout was reached (30000 milliseconds) while waiting for the GamingApp_Service service to connect." and "A timeout was reached (30000 milliseconds) while waiting for the BingDesktopUpdate service to connect."

Were you able to clean-install / separate partition?
 
My PC has been crashing as of late, and I can't determine what exactly is causing it. It's been cleaned out recently with compressed air. I always use an anti static wrist band. Generally, once it crashes for the first time (typically during gaming, where I either see a direct x error, a full hang, or a weird hang where I can't use the mouse or any input functions, yet the background music is still playing and is still technically active), it'll keep crashing either on the splash screen when it boots back up, or shortly after the desktop has finished loading.

Booting into safe mode doesn't crash the system at all. Also, leaving the computer off for a few hours seems to help. At least, it doesn't crash right away. I've noticed it seems to either crash after loading up a game, or having too many USB devices attached. I'm not able to narrow it down.

Is there any diagnostic tools I can use to determine exactly whats going on, or perhaps something to look for in the event viewer.

Graphics drivers are up to date. It's also a recurring issue, as it was happening during the end of my Windows 8.1 install, which prompted me to upgrade to 10 as I thought perhaps it would help fix it. But the problem persists. Any help would be much appreciated.
sounds like a driver problem. Have you installed video card driver and when did this started happening?
 

LudicrouslyLiam

Neo Member
I'll keep it short: I accidently reformatted my HDD on my ps4. I had video files recorded using the in-built recorder. Is there any chance whatsoever of me recovering anything? After buying an external adapter and file recovery software (EaseUS), I recovered about 180gb of files, despite the disk showing 420GB of data. Bear in mind I have well over 300gb of video files.

However, I'm unable to open anything. The files were .SWF and .TPI. I would assume the games are encrypted, but what reason would they encrypt video files for?

I can give more information but I'll wait for anyone that knows how the ps4 records and encrypts video files because that seems to be the issue.
 
Hey Gaf,

I am generally tech-savvy, but I am trying to do something which is not quite in my comfort zone, and trial-and-error is a bit too slow (for reasons that might become obvious).

Here's my situation: I live in an apartment on two floors, with ceilings and walls apparently made of wifi-kryptonite (a single wall is enough to significantly dampen the wifi signal). I have internet from BT (UK provider; somewhat crap modem/router).
Situation right now:
BT router connects to powerline adapter; other powerline adapter (different floor) creates its own wifi network. I therefore have two wifi networks, which is kind of annoying. I am also using the BT router; I'd rather only use the modem part of it.

Desired situation, more or less:
BT modem connects to my dd-wrt modem (which for some reason I never had any problems with any other provider before, but I can't get to work with the BT modem/router). dd-wrt connects to powerline adapter, which connects to a flurry of combined powerline adapter/wifi routers. All wifi routers connect to a global wifi network (single SSID, single password). Routing is actually done by the dd-wrt router.

I am not 100% the above makes sense. Does it? How can I learn more about this whole nonsense? Any recommendations for powerline/wifi adapters? I have installed a devolo system in a relative's house, but for instance I won't be able to do wifi mirroring (i.e. the wifi adapters mirroring the main router wifi setting) without WPS (which I don't have).

I feel somehow that having multiple wifi adapters create the same network is more complicated than just giving them the same SSID; I have tried that before (and it didn't work).

Any advice? I would be eternally grateful.
 

Baleoce

Member
Were you able to clean-install / separate partition?

Not yet, I will do though. Is the Windows 10 "Reset this PC" option as good as reinstalling from scratch?

sounds like a driver problem. Have you installed video card driver and when did this started happening?

I'm updated to the latest driver. I've tried rollbacks, and reinstalling the drivers, and it doesn't seem to be related. it's just a recurring issue that's been happening the past couple of months.
 

Alpende

Member
I think I have some issues with Windows 10, specifically playing audio and video files.

I'm using VLC but I cannot open any video file in the program. It just keeps showing a black screen while nothing is happening. I reinstalled it but that didn't work.

Same goes for audio files in VLC, nothing happens. I also use Mediamonkey and when I try to play an .mp3 file it just freezes. I can download podcasts and sync my iPod but trying to play mp3 files just freezes the program.

Can this be because of the newest Windows 10 update? And if it is, how can I see what causes the problems?

These are my latest updates, it's in Dutch but you get the idea.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


EDIT:::

I deleted the KB3124200 patch and everything works fine again. Stupid bugs.
 

mrmisterwaa

Neo Member
Hey Gaf,

I am generally tech-savvy, but I am trying to do something which is not quite in my comfort zone, and trial-and-error is a bit too slow (for reasons that might become obvious).

Here's my situation: I live in an apartment on two floors, with ceilings and walls apparently made of wifi-kryptonite (a single wall is enough to significantly dampen the wifi signal). I have internet from BT (UK provider; somewhat crap modem/router).
Situation right now:
BT router connects to powerline adapter; other powerline adapter (different floor) creates its own wifi network. I therefore have two wifi networks, which is kind of annoying. I am also using the BT router; I'd rather only use the modem part of it.

Desired situation, more or less:
BT modem connects to my dd-wrt modem (which for some reason I never had any problems with any other provider before, but I can't get to work with the BT modem/router). dd-wrt connects to powerline adapter, which connects to a flurry of combined powerline adapter/wifi routers. All wifi routers connect to a global wifi network (single SSID, single password). Routing is actually done by the dd-wrt router.

I am not 100% the above makes sense. Does it? How can I learn more about this whole nonsense? Any recommendations for powerline/wifi adapters? I have installed a devolo system in a relative's house, but for instance I won't be able to do wifi mirroring (i.e. the wifi adapters mirroring the main router wifi setting) without WPS (which I don't have).

I feel somehow that having multiple wifi adapters create the same network is more complicated than just giving them the same SSID; I have tried that before (and it didn't work).

Any advice? I would be eternally grateful.

I have limited experience with power-line adapters but why do you even need a wifi adapter when you can strictly use the power-line adapters?

If that doesn't work - consider using CAT5 / 6 - use cable ties that stick on the walls to keep them hidden / out of sight.
 

Northeastmonk

Gold Member
I am having a terrible time at the moment. My PC is beyond saving (which is why I must ask for help).

Last night and the day before that my PC would freeze during videos. This never happened before. I restarted my PC and it gave me this repair H Drive.

12435753_10153842862216465_547056905_n.jpg


This cycled through 3 reboots. Previously I was running Windows 10 with Avira protecting my computer. I have 3 drives on my computer. My OS is on my 256 GB SSD, I have a 1 TB, and a 500 GB HDD.

I go through this screen multiple times with the repair of the SSD. What happened was that now I'm back at Windows 8 with nothing installed except a few things. My wireless card is a Netgear WG111v3 USB stick. It doesn't even turn on anymore. I go into Network Settings and nothing appears at all in Safe Mode or in Normal mode. It just wants to keep cycling through the repair of the H drive (SSD).

12443185_10153843198781465_1050677620_n.jpg


I saw one or two files I had put on my PC yesterday, but the rest is from 2013. I have files I deleted from 2013 and they're still there. I have nothing on this machine. I can access all 3 drives just fine, but none of my content is there.

I have 14 GB RAM, Intel core i7 920@2.67 GHz (2.65 GHz) with a 64 bit OS.

I had no restore point set. I am lost at the moment. I haven't hooked it back up to the internet because my wireless card was working perfectly before today. Now it won't even turn on even when I hook it up to my laptop. I had Steam installed before 2013 and nothing is showing up.

Windows update loads and there were about 26 updates, but I can't connect to the internet. I'm not sure what to do. I am using my laptop right now and I'm running in safe mode. I'm about to run Avira and possibly Malaware, but everything seems gone. I didn't do anything except reboot my PC last night.
 
I'm putting together a mini-board (GA-Z170N) and have three fans in my Corsair case, but only one system fan header on my MB.

This fan hub seemed to be what I would need, but when I hooked it all up, the fans were all running at full blast (and were pretty damn noisy).

The package said that speed control only worked with PWM fans which made me think, "OK, I'll order three PWM fans!"

Hooked it all up last night, exact same problem.

So, in summary...

* One fan connected to the MB = silent 750 RPM bliss
* Fan hub connected to the MB + 1 or more fans = 1500 RPM whirring noisepocalypse (I did connect one of the fans to the speed detector, which seems to work judging by the BIOS rpm display)

Another strange detail - adjusting the fan speed in the BIOS doesn't seem to do anything (it defaults to bios-controlled) regardless of whether I have just one fan connected or all of them.

So GAF - any help / suggestions?

I bought a Y-splitter for my fans and that seemed to work... Haven't seen a 3-headed cable, so maybe if I daisy-chain 2 I can get all three fans going? I've read that there might not be enough power for multiple fans of 1 header, so I guess I'll see if heat becomes a problem...
 

Chairhome

Member
This is killing me. Last week, win 10 apps (windows store, photos, calculayor) stopped working. Also, my permissions were messed up so I couldn't write directly to c:
I found some possible solutions (powershell commands), but they didn't work. I reinstalled windows. Same thing happens. Any ideas?
 
cant be the power supply, was replaced and still had the issue, even with a different model power supply, it still would randomly not turn on
Try removing the side cover of your pc and see if it still turns off. Sounds like might be overheating issue. If that is the case, look to see if your fan is running from the opened side that you left open. If fan running and pc does not shut off with the side removed, you will know it definitely heating issue. If do, clean openings with air canister then put the side lid back on and see if it turns off.
 
This is killing me. Last week, win 10 apps (windows store, photos, calculayor) stopped working. Also, my permissions were messed up so I couldn't write directly to c:
I found some possible solutions (powershell commands), but they didn't work. I reinstalled windows. Same thing happens. Any ideas?
You did a complete install and still same issue?

Maybe it's an app or software that you always install?
 
I'll keep it short: I accidently reformatted my HDD on my ps4. I had video files recorded using the in-built recorder. Is there any chance whatsoever of me recovering anything? After buying an external adapter and file recovery software (EaseUS), I recovered about 180gb of files, despite the disk showing 420GB of data. Bear in mind I have well over 300gb of video files.

However, I'm unable to open anything. The files were .SWF and .TPI. I would assume the games are encrypted, but what reason would they encrypt video files for?

I can give more information but I'll wait for anyone that knows how the ps4 records and encrypts video files because that seems to be the issue.
use converter software to convert swf to mp4

http://www.idealshare.net/video-converter/swf-converter-mac-windows.html
 
I looked through the BSOD logs and noticed some interesting stuff.

Either before or during every crash, Windows picks up 10-20 warnings. They all look something like this:

Task Scheduler service found a misconfiguration in the NT TASKMicrosoftWindowsMedia CenterReindexSearchRoot definition. Additional Data: Error Value: %SystemRoot%ehomeehPrivJob.exe.

Could this reflect a software conflict?
have you ran your pc in safe mode with only essential Windows processes running?
 
D

Deleted member 325805

Unconfirmed Member
I bought a Yoga 2 10" a few days ago and I've been struggling with an issue. Basically any 60fps content runs terrible on both Chrome and Firefox, but it works perfectly offline and when using Microsoft Edge. The issue is full screen (and resizing the video) causes constant screen shake, and general choppiness. I made a video showing the issue here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ejiiSTHwV8

If you own a Windows 10 tablet can you please try to run a HTML5 60fps video on Youtube using Firefox and see if it's the same for you, it must be 60fps, 30fps works fine for me as well. My video for example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3JbxG4w-hU. Also, it's the same with Gfycats, if someone could try to run this in full screen I'd really appreciate it: https://gfycat.com/BrightJoyfulErmine

I need to know if my unit is faulty or if it's a Firefox/Chrome issue. I've been spending every waking minute on this issue for a few days now and I can't seem to get anywhere, and there's not much online about it.
 

ItIsOkBro

Member
My laptop has a problem where it won't turn back on if it shuts down. So I've been keeping it on standby mode for about a year now.

Well today, I finally let my laptop down. Didn't leave enough juice in the battery and it died overnight.

The last time this happened a year ago it managed to come back to life but I don't think I will be that lucky this time.
 

squidyj

Member
Okay so.....
I decided to upgrade to w10 today. For one reason or another one of my monitors is not properly recognized and only displays 640x480, this is not my issue, this has been a longstanding issue with my monitor with various gpu vendors and various driver versions, I have solved it by manually editing it's real EDID and creating an inf which I then install restoring it's support. This has been working fine over a couple of os reinstalls and whatnot.

It is, however, unsigned, and so I go through the rigamarole of allowing unsigned driver installation and.............. I accidentally install it to the wrong display. I also have a Sony TV hooked up but they both showed up in device manager as "generic pnp" and "generic non-pnp". I clicked the wrong button and as soon as I had installed it I realized what I had done.

The problem is I can't seem to fix it, I've used apps to go in and grab the appropriate EDID and make an inf out of that and install it which restores resolution and refresh rate but I can't get it to recognize that my TV supports audio output. Windows seems convinced that my TV is in fact an Acer AL2616W (My other monitor), every time I try to uninstall the TV, wipe out the drivers, or whatever, it automatically identifies it as an Acer display with a 1920x1200 resolution and no audio device.

What do?

Edit: I'm trying to get into the registry so i can just delete the registry keys for both monitors and see if that helps. But I can't figure out how to give myself full access to the fucking keys. I am now officially pissed off at windows 10.
 

squidyj

Member
Solved my problem. Finally was able to give myself ownership over all the registry keys and clear them out which seemed to do what it needed to get the computer to forget it ever 'knew' my Sony TV was an Acer monitor. Got my audio back and everything is working.

Fuck
You
Windows
You
Piece
of
Shit.
 

Baleoce

Member
I installed whocrashed to try and make some sense of the crash reports. It's saying the likely culprit was ntkrnlmp.exe
 

PBalfredo

Member
What's the best way to get rid of browser hijacks on your computer (Firefox hijacks in this case)? Every solution I see in searches are either telling me to delete the symptoms of the virus, or to download one program or another to fix it. Thing is, how do I know which program to trust that isn't either another backdoor for viruses or will do its job but be equally annoying, forcing itself onto my start bar and trying to upsell me to the paid version?
 

mrmisterwaa

Neo Member
What's the best way to get rid of browser hijacks on your computer (Firefox hijacks in this case)? Every solution I see in searches are either telling me to delete the symptoms of the virus, or to download one program or another to fix it. Thing is, how do I know which program to trust that isn't either another backdoor for viruses or will do its job but be equally annoying, forcing itself onto my start bar and trying to upsell me to the paid version?

Spybot Search & Destroy had the functionality to remove & permanently lock your browser settings. There would be other alternatives as well but I haven't had a problem like that in years.
 
I've got an old laptop, maybe or 9 years old, that has Vista installed. This laptop has been running slowly for a while, but you could still boot into it and use it. Last weekend, the laptop froze while my brother was using it and he restarted. While attempting to boot, the laptop goes black, restarts again, asks what he wants to do. He selects normal boot, didn't work. He tries to launch the recovery partition, which he was able to do, but it was moving slowly. Did a startup repair, but that didn't work.

At that point, I take a look at it and try a recovery disc (which runs slower than it normally should) with the same repair option, but get the same results as the partition. Then I try a Vista install CD (again, runs slower than normal), do a chkdsk, with gives no problems, do some other commands to fix the MBR, and do the startup repair again. This time I actually get results and the computer boots into Vista. All is well, until 5 days later, when the laptop freezes and we're back at square one, but this time things are much worse.

So, here we are today. Here's the rundown:
1.Can't boot into Vista in any way, regular or safe mode. It slowly goes through the boot process, but just gives up and restarts.
2. Can't use recovery partition, recovery CD, or Vista install CD (every time I try to use them, they load slower than they normally should, and now all I get is a blue screen with a mouse cursor, as if it just gives up loading after a while.)
3. I've done a memory test in BIOS, but it comes out fine.
4. I've done a hard drive test in BIOS, and I get a 1-04 Fail
5. Scared that the hard drive may be dying, I booted into a Linux distro (Slitaz) from a 1GB USB thumb drive and backed up my data to an external drive. Booting into the thumb drive gave me no problems.
6. An interesting thing happened. I plugged in a USB floppy drive, booted it, and attempted to use Killdisk to wipe the drive. The drive starts to load Killdisk, but then gives up after a while, similar to how the recovery partition/disc did.

I'm not sure what to do with this thing. it could be a hard drive issue, but that doesn't explain why the floppy drive and the CDs fail to load anymore. If you've made it through my wall of text, I appreciate any solutions that will get it to boot back into Vista.
 

oneran

Member
I've got an old laptop, maybe or 9 years old, that has Vista installed. This laptop has been running slowly for a while, but you could still boot into it and use it. Last weekend, the laptop froze while my brother was using it and he restarted. While attempting to boot, the laptop goes black, restarts again, asks what he wants to do. He selects normal boot, didn't work. He tries to launch the recovery partition, which he was able to do, but it was moving slowly. Did a startup repair, but that didn't work.

At that point, I take a look at it and try a recovery disc (which runs slower than it normally should) with the same repair option, but get the same results as the partition. Then I try a Vista install CD (again, runs slower than normal), do a chkdsk, with gives no problems, do some other commands to fix the MBR, and do the startup repair again. This time I actually get results and the computer boots into Vista. All is well, until 5 days later, when the laptop freezes and we're back at square one, but this time things are much worse.

So, here we are today. Here's the rundown:
1.Can't boot into Vista in any way, regular or safe mode. It slowly goes through the boot process, but just gives up and restarts.
2. Can't use recovery partition, recovery CD, or Vista install CD (every time I try to use them, they load slower than they normally should, and now all I get is a blue screen with a mouse cursor, as if it just gives up loading after a while.)
3. I've done a memory test in BIOS, but it comes out fine.
4. I've done a hard drive test in BIOS, and I get a 1-04 Fail
5. Scared that the hard drive may be dying, I booted into a Linux distro (Slitaz) from a 1GB USB thumb drive and backed up my data to an external drive. Booting into the thumb drive gave me no problems.
6. An interesting thing happened. I plugged in a USB floppy drive, booted it, and attempted to use Killdisk to wipe the drive. The drive starts to load Killdisk, but then gives up after a while, similar to how the recovery partition/disc did.

I'm not sure what to do with this thing. it could be a hard drive issue, but that doesn't explain why the floppy drive and the CDs fail to load anymore. If you've made it through my wall of text, I appreciate any solutions that will get it to boot back into Vista.

If the hard drive is easily accessible try disconnecting it from the laptop and then try booting from your removable media, most bootable programs will scan your hardware configuration before starting up and if the hard drive is giving you issues it may be causing the performance issues.

Seagate and Western Digital both have bootable drive diagnostic programs (seatools and data lifeguard) that you can try downloading and running, based upon the drive your using.
 
If the hard drive is easily accessible try disconnecting it from the laptop and then try booting from your removable media, most bootable programs will scan your hardware configuration before starting up and if the hard drive is giving you issues it may be causing the performance issues.

Seagate and Western Digital both have bootable drive diagnostic programs (seatools and data lifeguard) that you can try downloading and running, based upon the drive your using.

Good call. I took out the hard drive and just ran it from the recovery disc, which loaded in no time. I made a new partition on the external hard drive and popped it into the laptop and Vista is now installing on that. I'll put the malfunctioning hard drive (it's a Fujitsu) in the external enclosure and test it a little later. Thanks for the help!
 

jotun?

Member
Situation:
  • I have Windows 7, OEM version
  • I want to upgrade to Windows 10
  • I want to upgrade my motherboard and CPU from Sandy Bridge to Skylake
  • I want to continue to use my existing SSD and installation

From what I've read, the OEM version of Win7 means I'm screwed when it comes to reactivating it or a Win10 upgrade after changing the motherboard. So I'll most likely need to buy a new Win10 license.

So I'll need to:
  • Do the Win7 -> Win10 upgrade
  • Upgrade the hardware
  • Change the product key

The question is, what order should I do these things in? Does it matter?
 
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