Don't upgrade to Windows 10 until after you upgrade your hardware. You might still be able to reactivate your OEM license of Windows 7 on the new hardware, you'll need to contact Microsoft to be sure. Be sure to say that you're replacing parts in your existing PC rather than putting together a new PC using parts from your old system.
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
mrmisterwaa
Neo Member
I agree. This would probably work - I would make a full back-up of your current setup before you do any playing around.
Jane Mansfield
Banned
Quick RAM question:
Does all RAM installed on a computer need to be the same brand? Can I mix memory modules from different manufacturers? I have 2 sets of 2x1GB RAM: one from Hynix brand and the other from Nanya brand. Both sets are DDR2-533MHz 240-pin DIMM, PC2-4200 MB/sec. I'm concerned because the Nanya memory modules look different from the Hynix memory modules.
This is for my parents' HP Pavilion a1700n desktop computer with Windows Vista.
Does all RAM installed on a computer need to be the same brand? Can I mix memory modules from different manufacturers? I have 2 sets of 2x1GB RAM: one from Hynix brand and the other from Nanya brand. Both sets are DDR2-533MHz 240-pin DIMM, PC2-4200 MB/sec. I'm concerned because the Nanya memory modules look different from the Hynix memory modules.
This is for my parents' HP Pavilion a1700n desktop computer with Windows Vista.
No need for matching brand.
Hi everyone. I have a zip file with files that I have accessed and extracted multiple times with no issues.
Suddenly one of these files is giving me an error in 7-zip "Data error in xxxx. File is broken"
Why would this happen? It was working before and after I added a couple of files. Every other file is fine, it is only that one that is being reported to have an error.
I am using 7zip 9.2 on Windows 10. It is stored on my secondary storage HDD. Please help!
edit: just upgraded to newest 7zip and now it just says "Data error". But at least it doesn't freeze at 15% when I try to open it.
I last added to this archive in October 2015. Is there a way to recover the previous version? Not sure if that's more feasible than repairing the broken one
Suddenly one of these files is giving me an error in 7-zip "Data error in xxxx. File is broken"
Why would this happen? It was working before and after I added a couple of files. Every other file is fine, it is only that one that is being reported to have an error.
I am using 7zip 9.2 on Windows 10. It is stored on my secondary storage HDD. Please help!
edit: just upgraded to newest 7zip and now it just says "Data error". But at least it doesn't freeze at 15% when I try to open it.
I last added to this archive in October 2015. Is there a way to recover the previous version? Not sure if that's more feasible than repairing the broken one
Sounds like it is corrupted.
http://www.7-zip.org/recover.html
Try posting on the 7z help forum, I had a corrupted file once and the developer was able to help me remove the broken file.
http://sourceforge.net/p/sevenzip/discussion/45798/
mrmisterwaa
Neo Member
If you have file history enabled you might be able to recover a previous copy.
If it's corrupt and you don't know when it last happened. You are probably out of luck.
How would it just get corrupt? I dont understand since it worked fine..does extracting a file corrupt it?
What is file history and where can I check?
The file is a video, can I at least extract the "corrupted" or "incomplete" video somehow? It just fails and doesn't extract anything at all.
Lots of reasons:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Data_corruption
Very interesting to read about, since most people assume computers to be infallible to some extent.
Something like this maybe, sorry it's been a while since I've ituned.
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203977
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204184
uncelestial
Member
Is there such a thing as an adapter that connects the analog audio out from a USB 3.0 type C cable to a 30-pin Apple connector? I have an old Apple interface in my car from circa 2006/7, but just got a Nexus 5X
Maybe this (with a mini-to-type-c adapter):
http://www.miniinthebox.com/mini-us...msung-galaxy-s3-i9300-and-others_p504530.html
...? Would that work?
Or would I need to break out audio separately (and still get a mini-to-type-c) like this:
http://www.miniinthebox.com/30pin-f...ote2-note3-tablet-free-shipping_p1813026.html
Maybe this (with a mini-to-type-c adapter):
http://www.miniinthebox.com/mini-us...msung-galaxy-s3-i9300-and-others_p504530.html
...? Would that work?
Or would I need to break out audio separately (and still get a mini-to-type-c) like this:
http://www.miniinthebox.com/30pin-f...ote2-note3-tablet-free-shipping_p1813026.html
Probably not the right place to ask, but is there a general active GAF thread to ask about streaming/recording gameplay from PS4/Wii U?
Just got an Elgato HD60 and Snowball mic and I wanna try out some streaming/Let's Playing like all the cool kids are doing, and I could probably use some tips e.g. sorting out audio and video input and output, editing tips etc.
Just got an Elgato HD60 and Snowball mic and I wanna try out some streaming/Let's Playing like all the cool kids are doing, and I could probably use some tips e.g. sorting out audio and video input and output, editing tips etc.
and by full, i'm talking about the 50-60% of g speeds, which is around 54Mbps * .5 ~ 28-32Mbps
note that i'm talking in bits, not btyes
anyways, i'm router is the old, but legendary linksys WRT54GL on the tomato firmware
i've forced the wireless to g, so it's not on b
i'm on channel 11, strongest with the least other devices in the channel, but i live in apt (tempted to go on ch14, maybe to just test, but i think i will get the same results)
router and tablets are within meters of one another, same room, no walls inbetween
i use my windows pc, on ethernet, and have some drives on share, used to transfer files between desktop to my tablets (surface pro and other windows tablet).
I've tried many settings, but i can't seem to go above 16-18Mbps -> around 2 megabytes/s when transferring files between desktop and tablets
i tried steam streaming as well, flux between <1Mb/s - 1.5Mb/s
this is my wireless settings pretty much
note that i'm talking in bits, not btyes
anyways, i'm router is the old, but legendary linksys WRT54GL on the tomato firmware
i've forced the wireless to g, so it's not on b
i'm on channel 11, strongest with the least other devices in the channel, but i live in apt (tempted to go on ch14, maybe to just test, but i think i will get the same results)
router and tablets are within meters of one another, same room, no walls inbetween
i use my windows pc, on ethernet, and have some drives on share, used to transfer files between desktop to my tablets (surface pro and other windows tablet).
I've tried many settings, but i can't seem to go above 16-18Mbps -> around 2 megabytes/s when transferring files between desktop and tablets
i tried steam streaming as well, flux between <1Mb/s - 1.5Mb/s
this is my wireless settings pretty much
So I've got a HP laptop, yesterday I turned it on to find it flickering to a black screen several times, before just going black entirely after a few minutes. You'd occasionally see a very thin, dotted red line on the left edge of the screen, top to bottom. There was still stuff being displayed -- although basically completely black. If a video or song was playing, you'd still hear the audio after the computer would cut to black, so it wasn't outright crashing. In the weeks prior, I'd see a couple of black flickers upon start up, on the initial transition to my desktop from boot -- although I thought at the time that this was a side effect of f.lux.
I plugged in a monitor, to see if it was just the native laptop screen failing, or some other problem, and the black screen (with the thin red dotted line) would still display on an external monitor (connected by HDMI).
Today, I turned it on (roughly 17 hours later), and nothing. So far no flickering, maybe one or two on startup, but no permanent cut to black -- it's been about half hour here since I started it up -- and no problems.
Although I'm quite worried the display might fail again, I'm just curious whether anyone is familiar with this issue, and would have any advice if this were to occur again.
Edit: Yeah, it's flickering again, only temporary so far, but it's doing it.
I plugged in a monitor, to see if it was just the native laptop screen failing, or some other problem, and the black screen (with the thin red dotted line) would still display on an external monitor (connected by HDMI).
Today, I turned it on (roughly 17 hours later), and nothing. So far no flickering, maybe one or two on startup, but no permanent cut to black -- it's been about half hour here since I started it up -- and no problems.
Although I'm quite worried the display might fail again, I'm just curious whether anyone is familiar with this issue, and would have any advice if this were to occur again.
Edit: Yeah, it's flickering again, only temporary so far, but it's doing it.
Jezbollah
Member
Good evening TechSupportGaf.
Look what happened when Linus & Co found out the hard way that they should have had an effective backup strategy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSrnXgAmK8k
Look what happened when Linus & Co found out the hard way that they should have had an effective backup strategy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSrnXgAmK8k
Built a new PC around 8 months ago, haven't had any problems aside from a few BSODs and crashes in GTA5. Quick restart always sorted it out.
Anyways GTA5 just crashed and I had to shut it off. Turned it back on and everything seemed normal (fans all worked, no strange noises), except nothing showed up on the screen. Thek keyboard would light up for a few seconds, then the lights would go off. I turn if off and on again. This time the fans start up, then stop, then start up like normal. Still nothing on the screen.
After doing this multiple times I removed the CMOS, put it back in and powered it up. Same thing happened, so i start googling shit. Anyway somewhere in my attempt at googling I look up and see that its on the login page.
I'm assuming its a motherboard problem. Any thoughts as to whats going on and if I should be worried?
Anyways GTA5 just crashed and I had to shut it off. Turned it back on and everything seemed normal (fans all worked, no strange noises), except nothing showed up on the screen. Thek keyboard would light up for a few seconds, then the lights would go off. I turn if off and on again. This time the fans start up, then stop, then start up like normal. Still nothing on the screen.
After doing this multiple times I removed the CMOS, put it back in and powered it up. Same thing happened, so i start googling shit. Anyway somewhere in my attempt at googling I look up and see that its on the login page.
I'm assuming its a motherboard problem. Any thoughts as to whats going on and if I should be worried?
Had enormous issues with Windows 10 (Cortana, Start Menu, Apps etc not reacting) which I actually managed to solve by creating a new user via command prompt. On the new user all o those things work.
As i haven't had multiple user profiles before my question is as follows:
What is the easiest way to make all the files/programs/settings from user 1 available on user 2?
As i haven't had multiple user profiles before my question is as follows:
What is the easiest way to make all the files/programs/settings from user 1 available on user 2?
Jezbollah
Member
Use the Windows Easy Migration tool to export from one profile into another.
Hi, I bought an extended battery for my HP Pavilion G7 and the laptop won't turn on when just the battery is connected.
- CWK Battery, highly rated with all positive reviews
- Battery is correct voltage
- Laptop does not turn on when it is just the battery connected
- Laptop turns on when AC plug is connected, Windows also shows that the battery is charging (battery also starts to get warm)
- Laptop instantly powers off when AC plug is removed although battery level is at 80%
- Windows 10
- When I click on the battery icon in system tray the window that pops up says "calculating..." and gets stuck on that
- HP Software is up to date
- I've uninstalled and reinstalled the battery driver
- I've tried resetting the laptop by removing the AC plug, the battery, and holding the power button for 60 seconds (not sure if this method works on HP laptops though)
- HP Bios battery test gets stuck and hangs at "6% complete, 15 seconds remaining"
- HP Desktop Battery test says "Battery failure"
- Original HP battery powers on fine
theusedversion
Member
So my system just did a big update that I think was from back in November. It had previously bugged out and couldn't install. Anyways, it's all fine now. But I noticed that they decided to put all my externals on the desktop now in Windows Explorer. Who in the fuck thought that was a good idea? Is there anyway to remove that? There's no option to delete when I am on the desktop folder in Windows Explorer. Maybe some kind of registry edit? I'm cool with them showing under This PC which makes sense but not on Desktop. Beyond stupid in my opinion. :/
Hey guys I was hoping someone could help me out with a question. I upgraded the hard drive on my late 2009 MacBook Pro a while ago to a 1tb 5400 hybrid drive. Due to all of the pics and videos I take I am running a little tight on space and am thinking of changing it to a regular 5400 2tb drive. Would there be much of a performance drop when working with my pics and videos if I make the change?
I also upgraded my RAM at the time I went to the hybrid drive, so I don't know how much of tribe improvement was due to that as opposed to the hybrid drive.
I know it's weird, but I like having everything on my laptop as opposed to having to carry around an external hdd. Plus I can back everything up together using time machine and an external hdd.
I also upgraded my RAM at the time I went to the hybrid drive, so I don't know how much of tribe improvement was due to that as opposed to the hybrid drive.
I know it's weird, but I like having everything on my laptop as opposed to having to carry around an external hdd. Plus I can back everything up together using time machine and an external hdd.
Vlodril
Member
Hello. I have a question about multiple monitors. I have 2 and use them extended. Is there a way to disable the programs switching screen when one of them changes resolution (everything moves to the right where my second monitor is). This is driving me nuts 
I just would like for them to stop moving automatically.
I just would like for them to stop moving automatically.
Lord British
Member
2tb external drive no longer being recognised by my PC. Works fine on other PC. Any ideas?
I plug it in and it pops up in the device manager, then vanishes after a couple of seconds.
I plug it in and it pops up in the device manager, then vanishes after a couple of seconds.
the brands dont need to match , but make SURE the timings match.
also if you have 2x1 , get another dual set of course
i think the Crucial website will scan your shit and tell you what is compatible etc , their ram is good too.
Your shit's dying. I had this before mine crapped out.
Are you hearing any clicking noises coming from the drive once it dissappears? (yes i mean the physical drive itself)
TheGamingBox
Banned
a different monitor
theusedversion
Member
I personally prefer the size of tvs. I recently upgraded to a 50" tv for my pc and I will never be able to go back now.
Lord British
Member
No clicking noises.
And now, it's working 100% fine. For no reason.
Time to replace.
Hi guys I was wondering about how multiple displays taxes my graphics card.
I've been running two for years so that's not really an issue.
But I've gotten a TV screen and I thought I'd hook it up anyway.
Now is having a third extended display using up a noticeable amount of GPU power?
Like I probably wont be putting anything it on it while playing games.
I just want it for movies, but I want to avoid having to enable/disabled the display in GPU settings every time.
So I was wondering can I just leave it enabled all the time? Or will that slow my GPU down?
And also will it slow it down less or more if I make the image on third monitor a duplicate of monitor 2 instead of extended display.
Thanks
I've been running two for years so that's not really an issue.
But I've gotten a TV screen and I thought I'd hook it up anyway.
Now is having a third extended display using up a noticeable amount of GPU power?
Like I probably wont be putting anything it on it while playing games.
I just want it for movies, but I want to avoid having to enable/disabled the display in GPU settings every time.
So I was wondering can I just leave it enabled all the time? Or will that slow my GPU down?
And also will it slow it down less or more if I make the image on third monitor a duplicate of monitor 2 instead of extended display.
Thanks
RandomExpletive
Member
Hi GAF, hope this is the right thread to post this about, my Grandpa's iMac may have a virus on it.
He got contacted ~ a month ago by a company called Prime Technologies (Prime Technology, something like that) claiming they could fix his computer (saying someone was trying to access it, typical scammer stuff). They wanted remote access to "fix" the problem, he apparently gave up his admin password (which he's told me is not used anywhere else, thankfully), and they charged him $300 dollars for 3 years of "security monitoring." So now they probably have remote access to the computer, or at the very least his computer's password.
He thankfully doesn't do any online banking, but has plugged in an external drive he uses to store financial information. This drive is otherwise not on the network.
We convinced him to unplug his ethernet cable, so the computer should be isolated. Now I'm wondering what sort of steps to take, as this is an iMac. What sort of applications/services/etc would you guys suggest for making sure I can clean his computer? I'm not super well-versed in all this, as my go-to solution is to just wipe the hard drive :\
I don't think I forgot anything... thanks TechGAF
He got contacted ~ a month ago by a company called Prime Technologies (Prime Technology, something like that) claiming they could fix his computer (saying someone was trying to access it, typical scammer stuff). They wanted remote access to "fix" the problem, he apparently gave up his admin password (which he's told me is not used anywhere else, thankfully), and they charged him $300 dollars for 3 years of "security monitoring." So now they probably have remote access to the computer, or at the very least his computer's password.
He thankfully doesn't do any online banking, but has plugged in an external drive he uses to store financial information. This drive is otherwise not on the network.
We convinced him to unplug his ethernet cable, so the computer should be isolated. Now I'm wondering what sort of steps to take, as this is an iMac. What sort of applications/services/etc would you guys suggest for making sure I can clean his computer? I'm not super well-versed in all this, as my go-to solution is to just wipe the hard drive :\
I don't think I forgot anything... thanks TechGAF
GAF, I'm having trouble with my new Chromecast. It's plugged in to my TV in the kitchen, powered by the TVs USB slot. There's only one HDMI slot so invested in a three-way HDMI splitter. My Sky+ HD box and Chromecast are connected. I connect Chromecast to my wifi fine but I have to reset/reboot it every time. Like, a full factory reset. It's getting annoying. Is there any way to stop this?
Seraph_Nicholas
Member
Has anyone ever heard of a new GPU breaking drives?
Friend gets a new gtx 960. Computer won't boot with it in, and since her SO is in japan, I'm the reserve geek. So, computer locks during boot with card in, is fine with card out. Setting UEFI to onboard does nothing. So I take the card home and put it in my computer. Device manager reports the card is reporting wrong during POST, but I'm able to boot, and installing drivers fixed everything. Well, I'm on 10 and they're on 7, so with support ending soon I figure they need to upgrade anyway. That's a whole new headache, but I get 10 installed and also update the UEFI. I'm now able to boot, and get into UEFI, but I get a 'no boot media' error. Here's where things get hairy. This computer is using a 40 gig PCI-E SSD as an OS drive, and a RAID 1 for general storage. During 'no media' boots, the OS drive is obviously not detected, but the RAID controller is gone too. The two drives themselves still appear in UEFI, sans the controller that appears as a drive when I boot with the card out. I have just enough knowledge about RAID to be terrified of touching it. Wat do, GAF?
Friend gets a new gtx 960. Computer won't boot with it in, and since her SO is in japan, I'm the reserve geek. So, computer locks during boot with card in, is fine with card out. Setting UEFI to onboard does nothing. So I take the card home and put it in my computer. Device manager reports the card is reporting wrong during POST, but I'm able to boot, and installing drivers fixed everything. Well, I'm on 10 and they're on 7, so with support ending soon I figure they need to upgrade anyway. That's a whole new headache, but I get 10 installed and also update the UEFI. I'm now able to boot, and get into UEFI, but I get a 'no boot media' error. Here's where things get hairy. This computer is using a 40 gig PCI-E SSD as an OS drive, and a RAID 1 for general storage. During 'no media' boots, the OS drive is obviously not detected, but the RAID controller is gone too. The two drives themselves still appear in UEFI, sans the controller that appears as a drive when I boot with the card out. I have just enough knowledge about RAID to be terrified of touching it. Wat do, GAF?
Just tried to render a video of Xenoblade X gameplay via Sony Vegas Pro on my laptop (i5 CPU at 2.5GHz and 8GB RAM) and it took 2 hours to render a 28 minute 720p30fps HD video - is that normal/expected, or should I expecting it to be done quicker?
I also have a desktop with a dedicated GPU, would rendering videos on there instead result in a significant decrease in rendering time (1hr+)?
I also have a desktop with a dedicated GPU, would rendering videos on there instead result in a significant decrease in rendering time (1hr+)?
I'm having a weird problem. I think my solid state drive is about to die, but i'm not sure. Its been problematic, not coming out of sleep mode correctly, occasionally not starting windows correctly (after i log in, it goes to the spinning loading icon and never stops. I reset it and it seems to work just fine.). I've heard similar things can happen when their time comes. But right now starting a youtube video caused freak out, the screen flash, and i had to restart. And after a restart, its been taking a very long time to recognize my mouse and keyboard, and doesn't seem to be seeing my wireless at all, which don't seem like hard drive issues, but not sure. I turned it off and unplugged it, and haven't turned it on since then. Does this sound like an SSD issue?
I'm running windows 7.
On a related note, is there a way to back up a pc drive onto another pc drive? My laptop has more then enough space but i'm not sure how. Its running windows 10 and if my ssd is dying, i may not have a lot of time left.
I'm running windows 7.
On a related note, is there a way to back up a pc drive onto another pc drive? My laptop has more then enough space but i'm not sure how. Its running windows 10 and if my ssd is dying, i may not have a lot of time left.
First off have you tried running a chkdsk or Disk Check
You can also check with the manufacture of your ssd, they normally provide you diagnostic tools on their website.
If your planning on sticking with windows 7 and only want your documents and settings (not installed programs), then using Windows Easy Transfer is probably the simplest solution. If you want an exact copy of your current installation than you should look into drive imaging software (if you buy a new drive some manufactures will provide you with a free version most likely from Acronis)
Thanks. I'll give that a try.
GutsOfThor
Member
My youtube has been looking like this since last night. I've tried closing and then re-opening the browser(Chrome) but that didn't work. Any ideas?
GutsOfThor
Member
Damn...
Cleared the cache, uninstalled chrome and then reinstalled it, disabled flash but still have the same problem. I posted the problem to the Google support forums.
Youtube loads fine in Firefox so it's directly related to Chrome.
Cleared the cache, uninstalled chrome and then reinstalled it, disabled flash but still have the same problem. I posted the problem to the Google support forums.
Youtube loads fine in Firefox so it's directly related to Chrome.
TheGamingBox
Banned
delete your user profile, reinstalling chrome does nothing if you dont
So ive been pulling my hair out for quite a bit over an issue I'm having with windows / my SSD.
I left my pc on while at work today to download some games (i have awful internet here )
Basically I came home and my pc wasn't showing an image. and wasn't responding, so I reset it via the power button on the pc to which it instantly shut down (which is odd if its in windows) after this booting it back up windows now completely locks up after ~10 minutes of use before hand its perfectly operable, there is nothing odd being posted in the event viewer. and ive been through a massive troubleshooting session that has lead to me having to reflash my bios :/
and my suspicions are that my SSD is screwing up some how but I have no idea how.
I'm willing to try any thing to avoid wiping my drive just because that takes so much more effort.
I left my pc on while at work today to download some games (i have awful internet here
) Basically I came home and my pc wasn't showing an image. and wasn't responding, so I reset it via the power button on the pc to which it instantly shut down (which is odd if its in windows) after this booting it back up windows now completely locks up after ~10 minutes of use before hand its perfectly operable, there is nothing odd being posted in the event viewer. and ive been through a massive troubleshooting session that has lead to me having to reflash my bios :/
and my suspicions are that my SSD is screwing up some how but I have no idea how.
I'm willing to try any thing to avoid wiping my drive just because that takes so much more effort.
Jezbollah
Member
So ive been pulling my hair out for quite a bit over an issue I'm having with windows / my SSD.
I left my pc on while at work today to download some games (i have awful internet here
Basically I came home and my pc wasn't showing an image. and wasn't responding, so I reset it via the power button on the pc to which it instantly shut down (which is odd if its in windows) after this booting it back up windows now completely locks up after ~10 minutes of use before hand its perfectly operable, there is nothing odd being posted in the event viewer. and ive been through a massive troubleshooting session that has lead to me having to reflash my bios :/
and my suspicions are that my SSD is screwing up some how but I have no idea how.
I'm willing to try any thing to avoid wiping my drive just because that takes so much more effort.
Have you checked to see if your fans are spinning? It could be a thermal issue.
Yeah temperatures are fine. hovering around 35