NoblesseOblige
Banned
As far as I can tell yeah. I'm using windows 10 and my date and time settings are set to set time automatically.
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
As far as I can tell yeah. I'm using windows 10 and my date and time settings are set to set time automatically.
Figured as much, I have no idea how people deal with this shit on 4K+ screens.
Guys, I'm having a weird (?) issue with my brand new PC+case.
Motherboard is an Asus H170M-Plus, cpu is i5 6600, case is Corsair Carbide Air 240.
Issue is quite simple: power led stays on while the PC is in sleep mode (it should be blinking instead).
My rough guess would be a motherboard/bios bug or something like that, but I'd like to hear what you think about it, and what could be done to check and/or solve the issue.
I would also like to point that there seems to be TWO separate pairs of pins on the motherboard that controls the power led, but both gave the same results.
Motherboard is an Asus H170M-Plus, cpu is i5 6600, case is Corsair Carbide Air 240.
Issue is quite simple: power led stays on while the PC is in sleep mode (it should be blinking instead).
My rough guess would be a motherboard/bios bug or something like that, but I'd like to hear what you think about it, and what could be done to check and/or solve the issue.
I would also like to point that there seems to be TWO separate pairs of pins on the motherboard that controls the power led, but both gave the same results.
I'm seriously getting so pissed with Windows 10 and Intel. My brand new laptop is having constant errors (display driver has stopped) and occasional blue screens. I try to update my driver but it won't get the latest version from Intel (because it's not approved by dell, I think). And even then apparently the latest driver for Intel 520 devices has issues for all devices.
So I go to look at returning my laptop because I can't do my work without issues, and literally every decent laptop has Intel 520 for graphics. Are there any current Windows laptops that aren't going to be full of issues without having to find one with an proper graphics card... Ugh. Really don't want a Mac since I'm in the MS ecosystem but this is so infuriating.
Advice or help would be much appreciated.
So I go to look at returning my laptop because I can't do my work without issues, and literally every decent laptop has Intel 520 for graphics. Are there any current Windows laptops that aren't going to be full of issues without having to find one with an proper graphics card... Ugh. Really don't want a Mac since I'm in the MS ecosystem but this is so infuriating.
Advice or help would be much appreciated.
Hey Techsupport GAF,
My laptop (a Sager NP9130) has been running into some problems related to its keyboard. Namely, certain keys stopped functioning, and I'm not sure if it's a mechanical or a software problem. About 6 months ago, my Print Screen key stopped working, and although I tried using KeyTweak and it worked, once I moved to Windows 10 (from Windows 8.1) it stopped working and I had to remap the print screen key in games and etc to a different key to go around the issue.
That said, since yesterday more of my keys broke (as in, the computer doesn't register them being pressed). They are ESC (kinda important), F1, F3, F5, F7, F9 and F10. Sharp Key and Keytweak have been useless to me so I'm open to suggestions on key remapper programs, or hints on how to solve this problem.
My laptop (a Sager NP9130) has been running into some problems related to its keyboard. Namely, certain keys stopped functioning, and I'm not sure if it's a mechanical or a software problem. About 6 months ago, my Print Screen key stopped working, and although I tried using KeyTweak and it worked, once I moved to Windows 10 (from Windows 8.1) it stopped working and I had to remap the print screen key in games and etc to a different key to go around the issue.
That said, since yesterday more of my keys broke (as in, the computer doesn't register them being pressed). They are ESC (kinda important), F1, F3, F5, F7, F9 and F10. Sharp Key and Keytweak have been useless to me so I'm open to suggestions on key remapper programs, or hints on how to solve this problem.
Freezasaurus
Member
Hey guys, I ran into an irritating problem with Windows Update. It was using more system resources than I'd have liked for the entire time my PC would be on, so I set it to be started manually. Well I tried to start it up the other day, and regardless of whether I select "Check for Updates" or actually select new updates to install, the progress bar hangs there indefinitely. I tried changing the setting back to a delayed start for Windows Update, but that doesn't seem to work either. Any ideas? It seems like my PC just completely lost the ability to communicate with Microsoft's servers.
Hello people, I've got a somewhat obscure scenario that I was hoping could be resolved by asking here!
So I have these folders, subfolders, and files:
I'm sure this can be done with some sort of fancy command line command, but is there a GUI tool that can get me all *.jpg files and put them into a new folder
Say I wanted the result to be:
What's the best way to achieve this?
EDIT:
Basically I want to check my entire computer contents and collate all *.jpg files into one final destination folder for me to do some further processing.
I would also like to do the same for other file types, but thought *.jpg was a good starting point
So I have these folders, subfolders, and files:
Code:
/firstFolder/firstSubFolder/file001.jpg
/firstFolder/firstSubFolder/file002.jpg
/firstFolder/firstSubFolder/file003.jpg
/firstFolder/secondSubFolder/secondFile004.jpg
/firstFolder/secondSubFolder/secondFile005.jpg
/firstFolder/secondSubFolder/secondFile006.jpg
/secondFolder/newSuBFolger/newfile008.jpg
/secondFolder/newSuBFolger/newfile009.jpg
/secondFolder/newSuBFolger/newfile010.jpgSay I wanted the result to be:
Code:
/finalDestination/file001.jpg
/finalDestination/file002.jpg
/finalDestination/file003.jpg
/finalDestination/secondFile004.jpg
/finalDestination/secondFile005.jpg
/finalDestination/secondFile006.jpg
/finalDestination/newfile008.jpg
/finalDestination/newfile009.jpg
/finalDestination/newfile010.jpgEDIT:
Basically I want to check my entire computer contents and collate all *.jpg files into one final destination folder for me to do some further processing.
I would also like to do the same for other file types, but thought *.jpg was a good starting point
SailorCosmos
Member
Probably not the answer you are looking for but could you not just do a system wide search for the extension and then copy/paste the resulting files to whatever folder you want to put them in?
What you want to do is easy enough through command line(see below) but I do not think I have every seen a GUI tool that allows you to do that.
These are for Windows. You didn't say which OS you are using so I am assuming Windows.
for /r C:\ %f in (*.jpg) do @copy "%f" E:\FolderForExtJPG\
or
for /r C:\ %f in (*.jpg) do @move "%f" E:\FolderForExtJPG\
NOTE: Change the (*.jpg) to whatever extension you want to move/copy.
Thanks SailorCosmos, will try it the command-line commands.
Yes searching for the extension doesn't always work as well as I would expect, so I thought I'd ask the GUI tool question.
I didn't specify OS because I actually need to do the file cleanup on both a Mac and a Windows PC, so I figured I'd try to keep it general and see if there was a GUI tool for either OS.
Yes searching for the extension doesn't always work as well as I would expect, so I thought I'd ask the GUI tool question.
I didn't specify OS because I actually need to do the file cleanup on both a Mac and a Windows PC, so I figured I'd try to keep it general and see if there was a GUI tool for either OS.
Zoidberg Jesus
Member
I'm sorry if this is the wrong place to post this, but I'm not sure where else it would go. I have an Asus ME572C K007 tablet running Android 5.0.1 (latest system update), and recently it's having issues with my Wi-Fi (2.4Ghz) on my home network. When loading anything using internet access, it's very inconsistent. Usually, it will load part of a web page or a couple rows of the Google Play store, but stop there. A lot of times it won't load anything and keep spinning.
I have a Gigabyte laptop and a Samsung Galaxy S6 that connect to the same network, and they load web pages and everything else internet related fine. I did some speed tests using speedtest.net on all three devices in the same physical location, and the Asus tablet will come up with inconsistent low download speeds, and sometimes it will come up with a "network communication error". My phone and laptop test fine on the same network.
The tablet worked fine with my network a few days ago, so I'm not sure what's changed. I've tried rebooting the tablet in safe mode, turning off location and bluetooth, disconnecting and reconnecting to the network, and turning off power saving mode, but nothing has helped. What else can I try? I'll provide more information if needed. Thanks in advance.
Edit: I'm sorry, I just found the Android thread in Community. I guess this post would fit better there. I'll copy this post over there, and this one can be deleted if need be.
I have a Gigabyte laptop and a Samsung Galaxy S6 that connect to the same network, and they load web pages and everything else internet related fine. I did some speed tests using speedtest.net on all three devices in the same physical location, and the Asus tablet will come up with inconsistent low download speeds, and sometimes it will come up with a "network communication error". My phone and laptop test fine on the same network.
The tablet worked fine with my network a few days ago, so I'm not sure what's changed. I've tried rebooting the tablet in safe mode, turning off location and bluetooth, disconnecting and reconnecting to the network, and turning off power saving mode, but nothing has helped. What else can I try? I'll provide more information if needed. Thanks in advance.
Edit: I'm sorry, I just found the Android thread in Community. I guess this post would fit better there. I'll copy this post over there, and this one can be deleted if need be.
Walker_Boh
Member
Hello again, GAF. You know that problem I posted about? The one where my PC hard locks and my speakers emit a high pitched sound? It just happened again a few minutes ago. I check event viewer and all I got was "This PC did not shut down correctly." Does anyone know what the hell is going on? This is like the fourth or fifth time this happened in two months.
So I pretty much gave up on restoring the SD card I mentioned earlier to working condition with the files intact. Now I was just hoping to format it and reuse it so I could carry around music on my phone.
I put the card in my PC and tried to format it, both via Windows Explorer and Disk Management. Neither was able to finish the job, though the PC can at least detect the card and its proper size.
When I put the card in my phone, it briefly flashes the SD Card Inserted message, but that disappears pretty quickly, and it doesn't give me an option to mount or erase the card. It does, however, read the small backup card I had been using to take some photos just fine.
Is it safe to say that the bigger card is pretty much screwed?
I put the card in my PC and tried to format it, both via Windows Explorer and Disk Management. Neither was able to finish the job, though the PC can at least detect the card and its proper size.
When I put the card in my phone, it briefly flashes the SD Card Inserted message, but that disappears pretty quickly, and it doesn't give me an option to mount or erase the card. It does, however, read the small backup card I had been using to take some photos just fine.
Is it safe to say that the bigger card is pretty much screwed?
Help! I can't access GAF on my home PC anymore for some reason. Chrome tells me "this site can't be reached"
Tried flushing DNS, resetting Winsock catalog, removing static IP, checked with firewall on and off, added chrome to WinDef exceptions, cleared cookies and cache, rebooted a couple of time. Nothing.
My productivity is skyrocketing! Something must be done!
edit: also tried using Google's DNS servers, same issue.
Strangely, when I ping neogaf through the command prompt and I get a response.
Tried flushing DNS, resetting Winsock catalog, removing static IP, checked with firewall on and off, added chrome to WinDef exceptions, cleared cookies and cache, rebooted a couple of time. Nothing.
My productivity is skyrocketing! Something must be done!
edit: also tried using Google's DNS servers, same issue.
Strangely, when I ping neogaf through the command prompt and I get a response.
Holy shit. I feel really dumb now. That's exactly it. Chrome auto-completes it to HTTPS in the URL bar too, so I had no clue.
Vlaphor
Member
I'm having the same issue with Chrome and Neogaf. I can use the site just fine with Firefox, but not with Chrome. Also, I have been using https://www.neogaf.com , but nothing changed.
Quick edit: If I copy the url of a forum page, I can access NeoGAF on Chrome (here right now in fact), but trying to get to the website other ways doesn't work.
Quick edit: If I copy the url of a forum page, I can access NeoGAF on Chrome (here right now in fact), but trying to get to the website other ways doesn't work.
Networking question that has been baffling me for a little bit now GAF, need your help.
It's concerning my PS4, and no, it's not what you're thinking
Currently my PS4 is connected to my router (not wirelessly, normal cable). I get good speeds while downloading games from it, so it is not that it is slow like many others have complained about before. My issue is that while it is downloading anything, it seems to take up all my bandwidth, meaning that the internet connection while doing anything on my pc or phone go to crawl. Currently on a 28/1 cable connection.
I've have a netgear n300 router, and I've tried setting everything on my network into the QoS rule list, with my pc at highest and my ps4 at normal and low (also made sure it was on). No matter what, if my ps4 is downloading something, even something small like a patch it will just hog up all the bandwidth. Any help would be appreciated.
It's concerning my PS4, and no, it's not what you're thinking
Currently my PS4 is connected to my router (not wirelessly, normal cable). I get good speeds while downloading games from it, so it is not that it is slow like many others have complained about before. My issue is that while it is downloading anything, it seems to take up all my bandwidth, meaning that the internet connection while doing anything on my pc or phone go to crawl. Currently on a 28/1 cable connection.
I've have a netgear n300 router, and I've tried setting everything on my network into the QoS rule list, with my pc at highest and my ps4 at normal and low (also made sure it was on). No matter what, if my ps4 is downloading something, even something small like a patch it will just hog up all the bandwidth. Any help would be appreciated.
ChoklitReign
Member
I really need a new external hard drive, something under $100 so 2 TB would be enough for me. I just don't have a clue what the best brands or models are nowadays. The only special requirement I have is that the USB 3.0 cable should be relatively long; my current external's cable is like a foot and a half long and it's way too short.
Stock firmware QOS is usually not very good in my experience but I haven't used netgear products before so I can't know for sure about that specific device.
There is a third party firmware called gargoyle with a very good QOS implementation. Might be worth looking into. I used it for a while and it was very good. It is based on OpenWRT which supports a wide range of netgear devices.
D
Deleted member 126221
Unconfirmed Member
I have a problem with Chrome that is slowly driving me nuts... It seems the longer Chrome stays open, the slower it becomes; videos become choppy, browser takes 1+ second to respond to scroll or button clicks... I thought it might have to do with having too many tabs open, but if I restart the browser and re-open all the tabs, performances are flawless... for a time.
It looks like a memory leak, but I can't believe Google would let it there for so long, and the problem would be more widely documented... I started noticing this problem since I installed Windows 10. Everything seemed fine on 7. I tried updating Chrome and emptying my cache, no result.
It looks like a memory leak, but I can't believe Google would let it there for so long, and the problem would be more widely documented... I started noticing this problem since I installed Windows 10. Everything seemed fine on 7. I tried updating Chrome and emptying my cache, no result.
Help me save my laptop, GAF, please!
My Lenovo Z570 keeps shutting down randomly, it reboots right after. Can't make out a pattern. It sometimes happens right after I turn it on, when I have it idle on the login screen, under heavy duty, surfing.. I can sometimes go hours without the shut down.
Figured it could be an overheating issue, but neither a thorough clean nor new thermal paste helped. Base temperature is now 44°C. CPU sometimes at 70°C, but rests at 45°C on average.
Malwarebytes cant make out any virus. I also tried that thorough reddit anti-virus, forgot its name, with no detections.
Running out of ideas here. One thing I noticed in the task manager: my harddrive is at 100% almost permanently. Main culprit is Windows Modules Installer Worker.
Can anyone help? I'm happy to give further info if needed
My Lenovo Z570 keeps shutting down randomly, it reboots right after. Can't make out a pattern. It sometimes happens right after I turn it on, when I have it idle on the login screen, under heavy duty, surfing.. I can sometimes go hours without the shut down.
Figured it could be an overheating issue, but neither a thorough clean nor new thermal paste helped. Base temperature is now 44°C. CPU sometimes at 70°C, but rests at 45°C on average.
Malwarebytes cant make out any virus. I also tried that thorough reddit anti-virus, forgot its name, with no detections.
Running out of ideas here. One thing I noticed in the task manager: my harddrive is at 100% almost permanently. Main culprit is Windows Modules Installer Worker.
Can anyone help? I'm happy to give further info if needed
Hi guys,
Wondering if someone can help me. My girlfriend has a Toshiba Satellite L50-b-1NM which refused to boot yesterday. It just stuck at the loading screen and would "load" forever. I did most of the things the person that made this thread did: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answe...shiba-satellite-laptop-boot-loop-failure.html
I took out the battery and pressed the power button for 30 seconds, I tried to enter safe mode but it would never load, I tried enter debug mode but it wouldn't work, tried to use system restore but neither option worked (froze at initialisation and said it had an issue when trying to copy or something), did pretty much what most sites suggested that I could find (and with what I could access on it). One other suggestion was to create a recovery disk for Win8 but I can't do that as my laptop is Win7, would that be the best chance of sorting it? I'm thinking of going to some repair place and seeing if they could make one for me or if they sold them but I don't really want to pay for it if I could theoretically do it myself.
Wondering if someone can help me. My girlfriend has a Toshiba Satellite L50-b-1NM which refused to boot yesterday. It just stuck at the loading screen and would "load" forever. I did most of the things the person that made this thread did: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answe...shiba-satellite-laptop-boot-loop-failure.html
I took out the battery and pressed the power button for 30 seconds, I tried to enter safe mode but it would never load, I tried enter debug mode but it wouldn't work, tried to use system restore but neither option worked (froze at initialisation and said it had an issue when trying to copy or something), did pretty much what most sites suggested that I could find (and with what I could access on it). One other suggestion was to create a recovery disk for Win8 but I can't do that as my laptop is Win7, would that be the best chance of sorting it? I'm thinking of going to some repair place and seeing if they could make one for me or if they sold them but I don't really want to pay for it if I could theoretically do it myself.
Zepp Twofist
Member
It will stay W10.
hey everyone, I have a problem with some new RAM I got. Hoping someone could help, my googling skills have sort of failed me.
I have a z97 mobo, and currently have 2 4GB sticks of Kingston Fury 1866mz RAM. It's been running great for a year, and I just bought 2 more 4GB sticks of the exactly same RAM (different colour)
The RAM is currently in slots 1 and 3, so I put the new RAM into slots 2 and 4, and turned on my computer
My computer attempts to boot, and then shuts down immediately. It then tries to turn on again and turns off right away.
I have a 850w PSU, which I thought should be sufficient. Every other time I've upgraded RAM at work, or older PCs, it was plug in play.
Things I found online mention trying only the 2 new sticks to see if they're dead, something with voltage in the BIOS settings, but not much help regardless. One post said Kingston Fury RAM always has issues? Someone else said to remove the CMOS battery from the mobo, and then put it back and try again?
I'm pretty tech savvy but admittedly not the best with hardware (my computer networking diploma says different haha) I'm currently working from home so I won't give anything a try until later on, but just looking for any potential solutions, thanks GAF.
I have a z97 mobo, and currently have 2 4GB sticks of Kingston Fury 1866mz RAM. It's been running great for a year, and I just bought 2 more 4GB sticks of the exactly same RAM (different colour)
The RAM is currently in slots 1 and 3, so I put the new RAM into slots 2 and 4, and turned on my computer
My computer attempts to boot, and then shuts down immediately. It then tries to turn on again and turns off right away.
I have a 850w PSU, which I thought should be sufficient. Every other time I've upgraded RAM at work, or older PCs, it was plug in play.
Things I found online mention trying only the 2 new sticks to see if they're dead, something with voltage in the BIOS settings, but not much help regardless. One post said Kingston Fury RAM always has issues? Someone else said to remove the CMOS battery from the mobo, and then put it back and try again?
I'm pretty tech savvy but admittedly not the best with hardware (my computer networking diploma says different haha) I'm currently working from home so I won't give anything a try until later on, but just looking for any potential solutions, thanks GAF.
ChoklitReign
Member
Since I started job hunting this year I've been harassed by telemarketer and spam calls from (mostly) the Atlanta area constantly. The frequency ebbs and flows but recently it's gotten really bad. I'm asking for help because one particular number (area code 435) has called me seven times in the past two days, and it's new. Ever since I discovered the Mr. Number app it's improved my life significantly, but the main flaw is that I still get silent voicemails every time the 435 number calls. I was wondering if, in either Mr. Number or the settings of Lollipop Android, I could skip voicemail for certain numbers. Even better would be advice on how to kill these asshole callers once and for all.
Hey guys,
Quick question, I'm starting a new job in two weeks that's going to require me to get the comptia A+ cert. Anyone have any recommended study materials?
My degree is in cybersecurity and I graduated last year, but have been working at a job that has gotten me away from IT/Security type work. The job is going to help me work towards more certifications, but I'd like to study up and refresh myself on A+ related material as that's the first one I will need to get. I've found some free online resources that I've been using, but would love some more input.
Quick question, I'm starting a new job in two weeks that's going to require me to get the comptia A+ cert. Anyone have any recommended study materials?
My degree is in cybersecurity and I graduated last year, but have been working at a job that has gotten me away from IT/Security type work. The job is going to help me work towards more certifications, but I'd like to study up and refresh myself on A+ related material as that's the first one I will need to get. I've found some free online resources that I've been using, but would love some more input.
Eye for an Eye
Member
So I have new Lenovo computer. It got clearance out at Best Buy, so I can't just do a simple exchange. It's running Windows 10. I've used it a little bit before but not extensively. However, I don't think this issue is necessarily with Windows 10.
My issue is every so often my screen tints blue on wake up. It's not like the old issues from the Windows 98 generation (or at least it doesn't look like that). It's very subtle and makes the screen dimmer than it should be. I have to restart the computer in order for it to go away. I had Best Buy take a look at it and they said there was nothing wrong with it. They had it for a few days and they couldn't replicate the problem, then it happened the following day after I got it home.
Regular screen
Blue Screen
My issue is every so often my screen tints blue on wake up. It's not like the old issues from the Windows 98 generation (or at least it doesn't look like that). It's very subtle and makes the screen dimmer than it should be. I have to restart the computer in order for it to go away. I had Best Buy take a look at it and they said there was nothing wrong with it. They had it for a few days and they couldn't replicate the problem, then it happened the following day after I got it home.
Regular screen
Blue Screen
I have a mid 2014 mbp retina 128gb ssd 8gb ram running 10.11.4
I recently got a warning that my hard drive was full. I opened it up and while the hard drive said it had ~116GB on it, all the folders on the hard drive only added up to ~87GB. I emptied the trash ad rebooted the computer and now it says it has 106GB on it. Still only finding ~87GB of content though.
I know none of these numbers are exact (when I open each folder with get info it's always a little bigger than finder says, but even then it's only an additional 2GB). Where is the missing ~20GB?
Thanks!
Edit: I turned on "show hidden files" and found two other folders, private and usr which I guess are other system folders. Those only add ~4gb, still more than 10GB unexplained.
I recently got a warning that my hard drive was full. I opened it up and while the hard drive said it had ~116GB on it, all the folders on the hard drive only added up to ~87GB. I emptied the trash ad rebooted the computer and now it says it has 106GB on it. Still only finding ~87GB of content though.
I know none of these numbers are exact (when I open each folder with get info it's always a little bigger than finder says, but even then it's only an additional 2GB). Where is the missing ~20GB?
Thanks!
Edit: I turned on "show hidden files" and found two other folders, private and usr which I guess are other system folders. Those only add ~4gb, still more than 10GB unexplained.
mrmisterwaa
Neo Member
MemTest.
It will give you an answer right away.
Once you verify that they are fine.
You have several paths to take - I personally underclocked my 2133 corsair dominators to 1866 as they were relatively unstable during heavy game-play.
Eye for an Eye
Member
It happened again, and I plugged it into the TV with an HDMI cable. The problem crossed over.
Regular Screen
Blue Screen
This is so annoying. It takes at least 2 minutes for a restart. I want a SSD drive but they're expensive and time consuming to transfer windows (if it can be done for free). But I'd just prefer for this problem to get resolved.
Regular Screen
Blue Screen
This is so annoying. It takes at least 2 minutes for a restart. I want a SSD drive but they're expensive and time consuming to transfer windows (if it can be done for free). But I'd just prefer for this problem to get resolved.
Zantetsuken88
Member
GAF don't fail me now:
I've created a Windows 10 install.wim image in order to build and deploy laptops for staff and everything has been going swimmingly until:
On the target machine, I've booted into Windows PE and used diskpart to reformat the disk as per the following:
I've then used Dism to deploy the image to the volume C:\
I'm now attempting to use BCDboot to configure the System partition but every attempt I make produces the error 'failure when attempting to copy boot files"
I've tried doing this from within both X:\windows\system32 and C:\windows\system32
Can anybody help me figure out what I'm doing wrong?
I've created a Windows 10 install.wim image in order to build and deploy laptops for staff and everything has been going swimmingly until:
On the target machine, I've booted into Windows PE and used diskpart to reformat the disk as per the following:
Code:
select disk 0
clean
create partition primary size=3000 id=27
format quick fs=ntfs label="Recovery"
assign letter="R"
create partition primary size=300
format quick fs=ntfs label="System"
assign letter="S"
active
create partition primary
format quick fs=ntfs label="Windows"
assign letter="C"
exitI've then used Dism to deploy the image to the volume C:\
I'm now attempting to use BCDboot to configure the System partition but every attempt I make produces the error 'failure when attempting to copy boot files"
I've tried doing this from within both X:\windows\system32 and C:\windows\system32
Code:
bcdboot C:\WindowsCan anybody help me figure out what I'm doing wrong?
So do you suggest trying the test with only the new RAM in? or doing it with my existing RAM? Because the computer won't boot with both in - so not sure exactly which approach to take.
Thanks btw.
Zepp Twofist
Member
I have a problem with a Windows 7 computer.
When you turn it on, or restart it, sometimes it will get past the Windows logo and then the screen goes black (no signal). After restarting several times, sometimes it will boot and when it does, it works fine. Windows logs have no info about what happens, and the computer never actually fails when doing anything else than booting Windows. Startup repair and restoring to previous versions doesn't seem to have any effect. It just boots sometimes and other times it doesn't. The hard drive also haven't got any errors (checked with built in HP tool).
I was wondering if anyone had some ideas before I try to reinstall the whole thing. I would rather not since it has some pretty specific configs that is a hassle to set up again.
This machine also recently started behaving like this. It has worked without error for a few years before this.
Edit/Update:
I solved this by the way. There was something wrong with the DP port/adapter causing display drivers to crash windows on load. Switching to DVI output solved it. Pretty ridiculous error to be honest. It's the second completely counter intuitive thing I've solved on this computer in a week. The other was Windows Update not being able to download and install updates because it wasn't able to draw it's tray icon. Solved by setting windows to always display all tray icons.
When you turn it on, or restart it, sometimes it will get past the Windows logo and then the screen goes black (no signal). After restarting several times, sometimes it will boot and when it does, it works fine. Windows logs have no info about what happens, and the computer never actually fails when doing anything else than booting Windows. Startup repair and restoring to previous versions doesn't seem to have any effect. It just boots sometimes and other times it doesn't. The hard drive also haven't got any errors (checked with built in HP tool).
I was wondering if anyone had some ideas before I try to reinstall the whole thing. I would rather not since it has some pretty specific configs that is a hassle to set up again.
This machine also recently started behaving like this. It has worked without error for a few years before this.
Edit/Update:
I solved this by the way. There was something wrong with the DP port/adapter causing display drivers to crash windows on load. Switching to DVI output solved it. Pretty ridiculous error to be honest. It's the second completely counter intuitive thing I've solved on this computer in a week. The other was Windows Update not being able to download and install updates because it wasn't able to draw it's tray icon. Solved by setting windows to always display all tray icons.
I got home from work today to find that my monitor is possibly not working. I turned on my PC and monitor, and despite the monitor displaying the usual manufacturer and EnergyStar logos, that was all it did before it went to a black screen. The little blue LED was on and solid, indicating that it was receiving a signal, just not displaying it. I tried disconnecting the monitor and restarting the PC with my TV plugged in via HDMI, but that did seemingly nothing. Only when I changed out my TV to a DVI to HDMI cable did it work properly. After this, I plugged the monitor back in to see if anything had changed, but it had not. Is it fairly safe to say that my monitor is dead?
I kind of think I might just replace it with this: Acer 27", but I'd rather just make this old one work if there is any way to revive it.
Update: I don't have a spare DVI cable around, though I'm not sure why that would be the issue. I did, however, plug my laptop into the monitor via VGA, and it seems to work fine in that regard. Naturally, my video card doesn't have a VGA output, so that's not exactly an option in any case.
I kind of think I might just replace it with this: Acer 27", but I'd rather just make this old one work if there is any way to revive it.
Update: I don't have a spare DVI cable around, though I'm not sure why that would be the issue. I did, however, plug my laptop into the monitor via VGA, and it seems to work fine in that regard. Naturally, my video card doesn't have a VGA output, so that's not exactly an option in any case.
RoryDropkick
Member
Ok, I feel like an idiot, because I know I've done this before and I don't know what to do now. I have a Ubee cable modem <Time Warner> that provides wireless, and a Buffalo WHR-G125 that is hooked up as a router with my PS4, WiiU and PC hooked up through powerline ethernet adapter. The Ubee can pick up all my wireless connections just fine, e.g. phone, printer 3ds etc, but when I go into my game room and log into my PC, I am unable to see any of my wireless devices in Windows 10. I would like to be able to print remotely. I can see the devices when I look at the Ubee's list of devices, and I have puropsely deactivated the wireless on the Buffalo as that was causing some issue with the ubee's wireless. What is the proper process to get this set up? Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
Sweetjebus
Member
Can I get my crt display working with gtx 960?
Gtx 960 has a Dual Link DVI-I output in which I have put my dvi-a-vga adapter and then vga cable to my monitor.
The monitor says no input even though the windows even detects the monitor display model I've got.Could an dvi-i to vga adapter help?
Gtx 960 has a Dual Link DVI-I output in which I have put my dvi-a-vga adapter and then vga cable to my monitor.
The monitor says no input even though the windows even detects the monitor display model I've got.Could an dvi-i to vga adapter help?
BIGWORM
Member
Is there any particular software that someone would suggest for controlling dual audio out through one sound card? I have a Soundblaster Z, and I have audio from the back, SPDIF specifically, going to my 2.1 system, and I have my headphones plugged in through the front audio out. Is there a way I can control the volumes of the outputs independently?
Edit: ALL of my problems were due to some shitty Nvidia drivers. The new 365.10 drivers fixed everything.
Something in my PC is not cooperating with sleep mode.
Whenever I play a game after waking my PC from sleep, I get something like 25% of my performance. DS3, and The Division are slide shows. Dota2 I was able to get to 30-45fps after turning basically everything off. In all cases, switching the resolution will temporary bring performance back to 100% until something in the game (UI popping up, a new effect going off (say, the effects from a grenade exploding for example)) causes it to revert to bad-performance mode.
I'm on Windows 10 with a Geforce 660. This seems to have started when I installed W10 a few weeks ago and has persisted across multiple GPU driver installations, so it seems to be pointing squarely at my W10 install. I'm kinda just wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to fix this that wouldn't involve re-installing Windows.
I think you're right on the money. DVI-I adapter will probably sort you out.
Something in my PC is not cooperating with sleep mode.
Whenever I play a game after waking my PC from sleep, I get something like 25% of my performance. DS3, and The Division are slide shows. Dota2 I was able to get to 30-45fps after turning basically everything off. In all cases, switching the resolution will temporary bring performance back to 100% until something in the game (UI popping up, a new effect going off (say, the effects from a grenade exploding for example)) causes it to revert to bad-performance mode.
I'm on Windows 10 with a Geforce 660. This seems to have started when I installed W10 a few weeks ago and has persisted across multiple GPU driver installations, so it seems to be pointing squarely at my W10 install. I'm kinda just wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to fix this that wouldn't involve re-installing Windows.
I think you're right on the money. DVI-I adapter will probably sort you out.
Song of the Turtle
Member
Something is very wrong.
I got a bluescreen out of nowhere (Win10, error message memory management) and now I get one everytime I try to boot. Sometimes it tells me that some checksume got calculated wrong (\windows\system32\winload.exe Code: 0xc0000221) and sometimes it says the OS couldn't load (\windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe Same code).
Sounds like I have to reinstall Windows. Any advice or idea how on earth this happend?
Edit: And please tell me this isn't a hardware problem :/
I got a bluescreen out of nowhere (Win10, error message memory management) and now I get one everytime I try to boot. Sometimes it tells me that some checksume got calculated wrong (\windows\system32\winload.exe Code: 0xc0000221) and sometimes it says the OS couldn't load (\windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe Same code).
Sounds like I have to reinstall Windows. Any advice or idea how on earth this happend?
Edit: And please tell me this isn't a hardware problem :/
Sweetjebus
Member
Oh well the DVI-I adpater didn't help. The monitor doesn't get signal while booting either. I need to test with another input if the problem is with the monitor or my graphics card.
Edit: The dvi-vga output isn't working well with my lcd monitor either. Screen keeps blanking and colors are disoriented.
I sold my 770 GTX to a buddy of mine. It's supposed to replace an older ATi / AMD card in his system, which has the Gigabyte GA-H61M-S1. He pulled the old card out, put the new card in, connected the 6- and 8-pin connectors ... nothing. System doesn't even power on. One of the LEDs on the mobo flashes for a second when he presses the power button, but nothing happens.
Any idea what the problem could be?
Any idea what the problem could be?
BIGWORM
Member
Uninstall drivers with old card in the system using DDU, select shut down within DDU (for new card installation), then try again.
That's good advice, but I don't think it's relevant to this specific problem. The system doesn't even power up, so I don't think it's a drivers problem (he uninstalled his old drivers btw). I told him to put the old card back in and update the BIOS, since 'improve high-end display card compatibility' and 'improve PCIEx16 graphic card compatibility' are metioned in the release notes. Hopefully that fixes it for him.
Hey guys so for about a week or so now my surface has been just cutting it's screen on while it's in my bag. or even while sitting on a table. This occurs while the Lid is closed too. It's causing my computer to overheat and kill my battery. It's getting really annoying.
Any Ideas on how to fix this
Any Ideas on how to fix this
GTX 970 -- i7 4790K -- 32gb RAM -- SSD
I by no means have a weak or struggling machine, but any game I play recently has an occasional stutter that comes in twos. Once every thirty minutes, the video freezes for a second or two and then quickly catches up, the audio never skips a beat. Only happens in game, never when using Photoshop/Chrome. Happens in Stardew Valley, Dark Souls 3 and Ori: DE.
I've uninstalled the NVIDIA display driver and reinstalled it to no avail. Any advice?
Thanks!
I by no means have a weak or struggling machine, but any game I play recently has an occasional stutter that comes in twos. Once every thirty minutes, the video freezes for a second or two and then quickly catches up, the audio never skips a beat. Only happens in game, never when using Photoshop/Chrome. Happens in Stardew Valley, Dark Souls 3 and Ori: DE.
I've uninstalled the NVIDIA display driver and reinstalled it to no avail. Any advice?
Thanks!
Sweetjebus
Member
This is fixed now. I got the monitor working through displayport-vga adapter.
Does anyone know of a way to get Windows 10 to mimic the Spaces feature in OSX? I have a MacBook Pro and a Surface Pro 3 for work, with access to two external monitors. I normally use my MacBook because the virtual desktop features are so good. They added virtual desktops to Win10, but I can't find a way to switch between them on independent monitors, which makes the extra desktops basically useless for me. I've been having to spend a lot more time in Excel recently and would prefer to work natively in Windows for that (I have Parallels on my MacBook, but it still performs a lot worse on there than it does on the Surface), but losing the independent management of my "spaces" is not worth the trade-off. Some Googling suggests that it might be possible with third-party applications, but I was hoping I was just missing a setting.