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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

Persona7

Banned

Ashhong

Member
Question about Android, hopefully it's ok to ask in here.

Can someone explain how the Gmail app works? By syncing emails, is it downloading said emails to my phone? My Gmail app on my Android is using over a gig of space. My Gmail app on iPhone is using 100mb. I can access all of my emails on my iPhone so I'm not sure what the size discrepancy is from.
 
I have a photoshop problem that I've never seen before.

I'm trying to make a gif and when I click 'Import Frames To Layers' I keep getting an error message that says "dynamiclinkmediaserver has encountered an error. [..\..\Src\DirectoryRegistry.cpp-283]" and PS locks up for a minute. Then I get an error message that says "Could not complete Video Frames to Layers command because the DynamicLink Media Server is not available."

I did uninstall Quicktime a few days ago and a couple sites suggested that may cause an issue, so I reinstalled it to test and I get the same errors.

Anybody have a clue about this, cause I cant find any resolution.
 

Aiustis

Member
How good are we talking? Dual band? How far is your router? Does size matter? Do you want USB or PCI?

USB...mostly for web surfing and light gaming, and I don't know how far it is from the router.

Second question:
So I heard a lot of clicking going on in my computer, briefly but my HDD might be dying. I'm putting in a new motherboard and CPU anyway; how would I go about moving my OS to a different drive?
 

kamakazi5

Member
Ok so my wife's computer just stopped turning on the other day. No apparent cause, it worked one day and then a week or so later she went to use it and it didn't come on. I checked the connections and of course nothing had come loose so I assumed the power supply died. I ordered another and hooked everything up and nothing again, no lights inside or out, it doesn't even attempt to power on.

Is there a way to test the power supply on my own PC without needing to disconnect and reconnect every single wire in my tower?

Could this be any other issue?
 
Ok so my wife's computer just stopped turning on the other day. No apparent cause, it worked one day and then a week or so later she went to use it and it didn't come on. I checked the connections and of course nothing had come loose so I assumed the power supply died. I ordered another and hooked everything up and nothing again, no lights inside or out, it doesn't even attempt to power on.

Is there a way to test the power supply on my own PC without needing to disconnect and reconnect every single wire in my tower?

Could this be any other issue?

it could be the motherboard
 

Armaly

Member
So I recently got my first ssd and i'm trying to transfer the os over. The issue is that my os is on a 1tb drive and my ssd is 500gb. Tried using the samsung cloning software and it estimates that 400gb will be transferred over. Is there a different/better program I can use to transfer purely the os?

I don't get much of a choice with the samsung software. For example, i'd like to keep most of my program files folder to my hdd while moving all the windows program files folder to the ssd. I pretty much want purely my windows folders on my ssd. Before anyone asks i'm trying to do a clean install to the os as an absolute last resort because I have some very specific audio and mic set ups that'll be a huge pain to set up again. Thanks.
 
The Samsung Cloning software has the option to exclude certain folders. It might only turn up if your SSD is too small to do the full cloning though.

But why not just transfer everything and then remove what you don't need afterwards? You should keep you program files on the SSD anyway, or you have to reinstall most programs in order to not break registry and shortcuts.
 

Armaly

Member
The Samsung Cloning software has the option to exclude certain folders. It might only turn up if your SSD is too small to do the full cloning though.
It doesn't line up properly. For example in my audio files menu it only offers to exclude 34.9gb. I looked through the menu and it's missing the option to exclude a specific 100gb+ folder. This is the same with my video and picture folders.

But why not just transfer everything and then remove what you don't need afterwards? You should keep you program files on the SSD anyway, or you have to reinstall most programs in order to not break registry and shortcuts.

Could I just rip my program files out and throw it back on my hdd? Is it really that simple? Thanks.
 
Could I just rip my program files out and throw it back on my hdd? Is it really that simple? Thanks.

No, after you have done cloning everything, the only way you can move the program files folder is by using a tool that will keep track of and update system files (I think CCleaner has that function, but you have to double check) or by using symbolic links, which is a bit more advanced.

But in general, isn't it a better idea to first clone everything, then move back user type files like Documents, Music and so on to the HDD. With 500GB you have enough space for a lot more software than just the Windows installation, and you generally want to keep your software on the SSD anyway to get a speed boost when starting programs.
 

Armaly

Member
No, after you have done cloning everything, the only way you can move the program files folder is by using a tool that will keep track of and update system files (I think CCleaner has that function, but you have to double check) or by using symbolic links, which is a bit more advanced.

But in general, isn't it a better idea to first clone everything, then move back user type files like Documents, Music and so on to the HDD. With 500GB you have enough space for a lot more software than just the Windows installation, and you generally want to keep your software on the SSD anyway to get a speed boost when starting programs.

Yeah I originally wanted this ssd purely for the os and games. So cloning then transferring the unwanted docs, music, etc. folders back to the hdd is my best bet? Thanks.
 
Hi guys. Today my PC ran into a strange issue, it booted to a black screen with a cursor after showing the windows logo, so I reset it, and it said windows didn't shut down normally and when I tried to repair it, it said it couldn't be repaired. Now it will start up, but goes very slowly and eventually gives me this screen:
mZcr2tQ.jpg


Not sure what it could be. The only big things I've done recently are install Team Speak and Overwatch. Wondering if I should just reformat or if something else is going on.

Please help.
 
My monitor is having trouble displaying a signal from the desktop. When I turn the computer on the monitor will often fail to wake up from standby mode. If I turn the monitor off and then on again while the desktop is running the monitor will flash a no signal notice and then re-enter standby mode. Even when I reboot the computer the monitor will still remain in standby mode. When I tried to instal the latest Nvidia driver the monitor flashed to black and then went into standby mode while the driver finished installing. I had to shutdown the computer and wait a few minutes after several reboots failed to wake the monitor back up.

The only solution I've found so far is to this problem is to turn the monitor and computer off, wait a few minutes, and then turn the computer on first and the monitor on afterwards. This solution doesn't work every time. Unfortunately I don't have a spare monitor to hook up to my desktop so my troubleshooting options are limited. Does anyone have any suggestions or should I buy a new monitor?

Thanks in advance Tech Support GAF.

Desktop:
i5-3570k
8 GB RAM
EVGA Nvidia GTX 970
Windows 10

Monitor:
Viewsonic 1080p LED
 
Most likely it is the monitor, but on the off chance that it is the cable or the terminals, you could try using a different cable. Both a different DVI cable, but also a different connector like HDMI or DPort if your monitor have different inputs to rule out possibilities.
 
Most likely it is the monitor, but on the off chance that it is the cable or the terminals, you could try using a different cable. Both a different DVI cable, but also a different connector like HDMI or DPort if your monitor have different inputs to rule out possibilities.

I'll order an Amazon basics DVI cable and see if that solves the problem.

Thanks!
 

Hari Seldon

Member
I upgraded to Win10 grudgingly so I coudl use virtual desktop. I updated to the latest AMD drivers and after I install them everything is fine, but I put the computer to sleep and come back and the catalyst control center has disappeared. I thought "that is weird" and reinstalled the drivers again and it was deleted again. What the fuck is going on? I'm about to rollback this shit and say fuck virtual desktop.
 

RK9039

Member
I've been having some issues with my PC lately, hopefully someone can give me advice on what I should do.

Whenever I play certain games, Witcher 3 for example, my PC completely freezes after playing for an hour or so, I then have to power the PC down and reboot it. The same problem doesn't exist when playing smaller indie titles, even games like Stellaris are working fine. This has been happening since last week, I've been playing the W3 since release and this has never happened before. I tried other 3D games like Archage which has also started to freeze since last week.

Here's a quick summary of my PC plus temps during idle:

untitledmeu81.jpg


I actually had a problem last year with my heat sink which I had to replace because it wasn't working properly. I don't think it's an overheating problem because I would have seen it on speccy, plus I opened my PC up to check the fans. I'm currently installing a few 3D games right now to check temps. I also checked the PSU fan and temp, it was really cool.

I ran memory diagnostic and everything was fine there as well.

Er... this doesn't seem normal:

untitleddxu2r.jpg


And I've noticed this since last week, I've never seen it show up red before. It's not always like that, it keeps going up and down but mostly it's under 10% when not gaming. Anyway I tried disk defragmenter, analyze and optimize but it was under 5% so I'm not sure if was even required. I am using Windows 10 and I have dealt with the SuperFetch thing and also disabled app notifications or whatever under system/settings. I'm not sure if memory is supposed to be that high as well, I saw when playing the Witcher 3 it would go up to 60%.

When I first started getting this issue I couldn't boot to Windows properly sometimes, I had to keep powering down and rebooting until I could get to the login screen. Then it would work for awhile but eventually freeze even if I was just browsing. I reformatted my main HDD since then and at least that problem has been resolved. It's just these taxing games now which keep freezing on me.

I'm running out of ideas here, I can't pinpoint what exactly is causing this other than my hdd or maybe RAM. Blood and Wine comes out next week and I lost my Witcher save. Superman help me.
 

_RT_

Member
Having a problem I'm hoping someone can help with...
I recently moved and the new house had Fios available to it. I wanted nothing more than to dump comcast, so I did.

Although it's a different set up (ont vs. modem), everything is up and running the way it should be and I'm more than happy with the speeds.

Except with my HTPC (of course).

Here is the issue:
1. Wifi speeds from laptop:
9ms ping
95 Mbps dl
75 Mbps ul

2. Wifi on phone:
10ms ping
63 Mbps dl
74 Mbps ul

3. Laptop connected with cat5e to router:
9ms ping
100 Mbps dl
120 Mbps ul

4. HTPC connected with exact same cat5e cable to exact same port on router:
203ms ping
4.27 Mbps dl
0.13 Mbps ul

I've tried updating the drivers. I've tried restarting a billion times. I've tried a number of command line prompts to reset the connection.
NOTHING makes a dent.
This worked fine at the last house with my regular router/modem setup.

Any suggestions?
 

oneran

Member
Having a problem I'm hoping someone can help with...
I recently moved and the new house had Fios available to it. I wanted nothing more than to dump comcast, so I did.

Although it's a different set up (ont vs. modem), everything is up and running the way it should be and I'm more than happy with the speeds.

Except with my HTPC (of course).

Here is the issue:
1. Wifi speeds from laptop:
9ms ping
95 Mbps dl
75 Mbps ul

2. Wifi on phone:
10ms ping
63 Mbps dl
74 Mbps ul

3. Laptop connected with cat5e to router:
9ms ping
100 Mbps dl
120 Mbps ul

4. HTPC connected with exact same cat5e cable to exact same port on router:
203ms ping
4.27 Mbps dl
0.13 Mbps ul

I've tried updating the drivers. I've tried restarting a billion times. I've tried a number of command line prompts to reset the connection.
NOTHING makes a dent.
This worked fine at the last house with my regular router/modem setup.

Any suggestions?

Have you tried another Ethernet cable? perhaps it was damaged during the move.

If it's run a long way I would suggest just moving the PC closer to the router and use a short patch cable.

I upgraded to Win10 grudgingly so I coudl use virtual desktop. I updated to the latest AMD drivers and after I install them everything is fine, but I put the computer to sleep and come back and the catalyst control center has disappeared. I thought "that is weird" and reinstalled the drivers again and it was deleted again. What the fuck is going on? I'm about to rollback this shit and say fuck virtual desktop.

Check your windows update history and see it's installing a different display driver over yours.
 

_RT_

Member
Have you tried another Ethernet cable? perhaps it was damaged during the move.

If it's run a long way I would suggest just moving the PC closer to the router and use a short patch cable.



Check your windows update history and see it's installing a different display driver over yours.

I've tried another cable. But regardless... the exact cable that is connected to the HTPC works perfectly fine with my laptop. Same port on the router too.

Argh...
Quick update. I booted into Safe Mode (with networking) and ran a speedtest. It was running as fast as it should. Must be a program causing the issue. Well.... This is going to be a drag.
 

bundaberg

Banned
I've tried another cable. But regardless... the exact cable that is connected to the HTPC works perfectly fine with my laptop. Same port on the router too.

Argh...
Quick update. I booted into Safe Mode (with networking) and ran a speedtest. It was running as fast as it should. Must be a program causing the issue. Well.... This is going to be a drag.

Obviously something with the PC (or something on the new router that the HTPC doesn't mesh with.)

A relatively easy way to test is to boot from a Linux live distro and test the network under that.

edit: saw your edit....there it is :)
 

bundaberg

Banned
I've been having some issues with my PC lately, hopefully someone can give me advice on what I should do.

Here's a quick summary of my PC plus temps during idle:

First thought is overheating. Open your case and point a pedestal fan in there and see how it goes during some stress testing with your game of choice.

If you're concerned it's hard drive related, run HD Tune and look at the SMART status of the drive: http://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

If the SMART status shows anything but a green "OK" then it's time to replace the drive.
 

bundaberg

Banned
Hi guys. Today my PC ran into a strange issue, it booted to a black screen with a cursor after showing the windows logo, so I reset it, and it said windows didn't shut down normally and when I tried to repair it, it said it couldn't be repaired. Now it will start up, but goes very slowly and eventually gives me this screen:
mZcr2tQ.jpg


Not sure what it could be. The only big things I've done recently are install Team Speak and Overwatch. Wondering if I should just reformat or if something else is going on.

Please help.


You (and the people helping you) could potentially spend a bit of time and possibly fix it but from the quick Googling I've done, seems like it maybe faster to just re-install.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/316751 (XP related)
http://www.sevenforums.com/bsod-help-support/330072-bsod-c00002e3-windows-7-underlying-issues.html
 

Fezan

Member
GGgyGkq.jpg


So gaf is my gpu dying. It shows similar lines even in bios. If I increase the resolution lines increase. Yesterday it was working fine. Just installed windows 10 and this happened. Even when installing driver my monitor goes blank and nothing happens
 

_RT_

Member
Obviously something with the PC (or something on the new router that the HTPC doesn't mesh with.)

A relatively easy way to test is to boot from a Linux live distro and test the network under that.

edit: saw your edit....there it is :)

Figured it out.
Program was causing the issue.

Thanks for the help all-
 

oc

peanutbutterchocolate
GGgyGkq.jpg


So gaf is my gpu dying. It shows similar lines even in bios. If I increase the resolution lines increase. Yesterday it was working fine. Just installed windows 10 and this happened. Even when installing driver my monitor goes blank and nothing happens
Tried onboard video? Different cable? Different video port? Different gpu slot?
 

Fezan

Member
Tried onboard video? Different cable? Different video port? Different gpu slot?
Connected monitor with my laptop and it was working fine. Don't have on-board gpu. I have another pcie slot but powercable will not reach gpu then. Will try this in the morning
 

jotun?

Member
I have a PC in my house that I'd like to be able to access with remote desktop from other PCs in the house (same network, all running Windows 10 Home).

I want there to be NO password on the PC for physical access, but I do want there to be a password for the remote desktop login. Is there a way to set it up that way? Or should I set it up with VNC instead?

Also, is there anything special I need to do to be able to wake it up from sleep remotely to log in with either remote desktop or VNC?
 
You can have a different user account with password to use for rdp. As far as I know there is no way to do rdp without a password. Alternatively use pin for local login.
 

Dimefan3

Member
Hi GAF,

Would anyone have any ideas on what could be causing jerky/lagging video? Everything runs smoothly in general, but the jerk/lag happens every 10 seconds or so. (both on videos/youtube and games)

I don't think it's my OS, as it was doing it for me when I was using Windows 7, but it's sill there for Windows 10.

I'm running a Pentium G3258, plus an EVGA GeForce GTX 750 2GB (did a driver update last night) with 8 gig of ram. SSD drive too.
 
Hi, I recently re-opted to get windows insider builds since I Wanted the mobile integration stuff. However, the downloaded build won't install, I just get an update and shutdown/restart option whenever I click power to turn off my pc. I tried opting out of insider builds, it's still trying to install the insider build which has been downloaded.
 
I have a D-Link DIR-632 router and just got a new modem from the cable company, I put the modem into bridge mode, connected the modem to the WAN port on the router as usual but get no internet connection at all? It is a Hitron CGN3 modem from Rogers in Canada

Any ideas?
 

THE:MILKMAN

Member
Need a bit of advice as to where to start diagnosing my PC randomly hard locking up (keyboard/mouse stop working. USB ports stop working) while watching Youtube videos on both Chrome and Opera. Today it locked up on both videos played, one under Chrome and Opera but yesterday I played quite a few videos without a problem.


Specs:

CPU: i5 6500
MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-GAMING 5
RAM: Corsair Vengence LPX 3,000MHz
PSU EVGA SuperNova 550W G2
SSD: Samsung EVO 850 250GB
Win 10 Pro

Currently no dGPU.

I had an issue on day 1 with what turned out to be a known issue with the drivers for the Killer LAN drivers on the Gaming 5 and I think I'm now up to date with the motherboard chipset drivers etc. I then had no issues for a good while before this issue in the last ~month.

Any pointers of where to start here?

Thanks.
 
Lately my File Explorer will randomly stop responding. I'll be browsing through my files, and at some point I won't be able to open any files at all. The only way to fix the problem is usually to restart my PC, but it'll happen again after a few hours.

I'm using Windows 10
 

Rufus

Member
Lately my File Explorer will randomly stop responding. I'll be browsing through my files, and at some point I won't be able to open any files at all. The only way to fix the problem is usually to restart my PC, but it'll happen again after a few hours.

I'm using Windows 10
Are you trying to access something on a mechanical hard drive when that happens? They stop spinning when they are not needed for a while and can take a while to spin up again.

If it's completely locking up and never recovering, then I have no idea.
 
I'm having issues when gaming. I have Win10 and whenever I play a game in windowed mode it starts "dimming" on and off every few seconds. It only just now started and I'm a bit confused. I have the Dell Gaming S2716DG 27.0" Screen LED-Lit Monitor.
 
Lately my File Explorer will randomly stop responding. I'll be browsing through my files, and at some point I won't be able to open any files at all. The only way to fix the problem is usually to restart my PC, but it'll happen again after a few hours.

I'm using Windows 10

Your hard drive might be dying
 

Oblivion

Fetishing muscular manly men in skintight hosery
Guys, got a problem.

These pair of brand new speakers aren't working correctly. Audio only comes out of one speaker. I tried to check the audio levels and all the L/R channels seem to be at the same level, so I don't know if that's the problem. And it's not that the speakers are defective because even putting in headphones has the same problem. The computer has windows 10.

HALP!
 

Rufus

Member
Guys, got a problem.

These pair of brand new speakers aren't working correctly. Audio only comes out of one speaker. I tried to check the audio levels and all the L/R channels seem to be at the same level, so I don't know if that's the problem. And it's not that the speakers are defective because even putting in headphones has the same problem. The computer has windows 10.

HALP!
Stupid question maybe, but are the cables plugged in all the way?
 

Flare

Member
So my laptop hard drive is really close to being dead. I get constant blue screens (the windows 8/10 variant of them), Windows constantly freezes up, huge lag/loading times, etc

My question is, say I buy a new laptop hdd. How would I go about getting windows on it, I don't particularly care for the files on my current hdd.

Because I'm pretty much unable to create a recovery disk, would ms be able to provide me with windows installer for my new hdd?

Thanks in advance guys.
 
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