Sectorseven
Member
My computer won't POST. No error beeps, no picture, nothing. Just fans, LEDs etc. I tested the power supply under load and it's good. What's the next step?
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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Zepp Twofist
Member
Is this a new computer or an old one who recently developed the problem? If the former, try to assemble it outside of the case with just mobo, cpu, ram,gpu and see if it boots, if the latter the problem is usually PSU or motherboard related.
Sectorseven
Member
It's a few years old. This has been happening every so often for the last couple months, but it usually starts to work after a few power cycles.
Zepp Twofist
Member
Then I would expect it to be PSU related first. Alternatively the motherboard or the ram. Those are usually the things that break during normal use over a few years in that order. There really aren't good way to test which is at fault unless you have spare parts to test with. It can still be the PSU even if it works with a different computer.
Sectorseven
Member
When I finally get it to boot up should I just keep it on all the time?
User 479360
Banned
We're getting a mild thunderstorm, with some lightning and moderate rumbling.
My Internet cut out a couple of times. Not in the sense that my modem showed red lights or a disruption (at first), but pages wouldn't load. Then, the WAN light went solid red.
I disconnected the internet by unplugging the phone line earlier, because I needed to fax something. I then plugged it back in and it'd been working okay. It's now working fine, too, knock on wood.
When it was having issues, I reset the modem again.
My Internet cut out a couple of times. Not in the sense that my modem showed red lights or a disruption (at first), but pages wouldn't load. Then, the WAN light went solid red.
I disconnected the internet by unplugging the phone line earlier, because I needed to fax something. I then plugged it back in and it'd been working okay. It's now working fine, too, knock on wood.
When it was having issues, I reset the modem again.
Trying to help a friend nail down a router problem. He has some sort of D-Link router which came from the ISP connected to his cable modem. It works fine most of the time, but after he got a new laptop a short while ago, he finds that sometimes he can't connect to it on the laptop. When that happens, all other devices still work. I've tried to get him to go into the router settings to see what's up, but he can't seem to do that either. Doesn't know what the router address is, and when he tries to figure it out, it seems his devices are allocated weird internal IP ranges like 192.168.2.x and 192.168.3.x on different devices at the same time.
Before I recommend resetting everything to factory settings and just setting it up from scratch, anyone have more insight into what sort of fuckery his router settings could be in at the moment?
Before I recommend resetting everything to factory settings and just setting it up from scratch, anyone have more insight into what sort of fuckery his router settings could be in at the moment?
adamsapple
Or is it just one of Phil's balls in my throat?
Guys .. on a laptop with 12GB of Physical RAM (DDR3 1600 mhz) installed, what should the ideal Page file size be ?
I've got it at 8GB currently, is there such a thing as too much (or too little) paging file actually slowing the computer down during windows startup ?
I've got it at 8GB currently, is there such a thing as too much (or too little) paging file actually slowing the computer down during windows startup ?
Vangmeister
Member
If all other devices are working then the problem is likely with the laptop. If it's from the cable company there should be a tag on the bottom that gives you the information to connect. If he's comfortable with it then have him do a standard 30/30/30 reset to get back to stock settings.
If it's Xfinity, then they may have the "free wifi" feature turned on the router. It allows other people to utilize the router as a free hotspot, which is why it's giving out multiple IPs on different subnets.
http://lifehacker.com/disable-the-public-wi-fi-hotspot-feature-on-your-comcas-1585025053
Jzero
Member
The page file has never really done much for me. Switching to an SSD is better for Windows startup, I haven't messed with it since. You have a bunch of RAM just leave it at the default.
You can watch this video to help you understand virtual memory better.
MikeHattsu
Member
Sounds similar to other TV manufacturers policies at least.
My partners laptop ever since we got it for her has not been running smoothly, it takes forever to load quite a lot of things, even simple things like right clicking on a file would make it struggle.
The laptop is about 3 years old.
It's a HP Envy Touchsmart 15" Notebook PC (Laptop)
Came with Windows 8 but now has windows 10.
Processor: AMD A10-5750M APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics 2.50Ghz
Installed RAM 16.0GB (15.2GB Usable)
64-bit OS, x64-based processor
I'm not very PC tech savvy so ever since she's had it, the only 'upgrade' we've done is updating the OS to Windows 10. No driver updates or anything like that.
So, would anyone know why the system struggles to load things fast?
Is it the hardware itself?
Maybe drivers need to be updated?
Is it because it is an AMD processor instead of Intel?
Any assistance would be appreciated.
If you need more info let me know.
Thanks in advance
The laptop is about 3 years old.
It's a HP Envy Touchsmart 15" Notebook PC (Laptop)
Came with Windows 8 but now has windows 10.
Processor: AMD A10-5750M APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics 2.50Ghz
Installed RAM 16.0GB (15.2GB Usable)
64-bit OS, x64-based processor
I'm not very PC tech savvy so ever since she's had it, the only 'upgrade' we've done is updating the OS to Windows 10. No driver updates or anything like that.
So, would anyone know why the system struggles to load things fast?
Is it the hardware itself?
Maybe drivers need to be updated?
Is it because it is an AMD processor instead of Intel?
Any assistance would be appreciated.
If you need more info let me know.
Thanks in advance
Jzero
Member
The specs look pretty alright so I'm guessing it's the drive. I'm guessing it's not a Solid State Drive?
Lv99 Slacker
Member
Plan on signing up for Google Fiber, but want to use my own router (Asus AC5300) to get around the really limited wifi speeds imposed by the network box provided by Google. What do I need to do?
I dont have it with me at the moment, but I'm pretty sure its doesn't have a SSD. Just a standard 1TB HDD.
Would something like the hard drive really make the difference in loading such simple commands like right clicking a file? It sounds so absurd
Jzero
Member
I dont have it with me at the moment, but I'm pretty sure its doesn't have a SSD. Just a standard 1TB HDD.
Would something like the hard drive really make the difference in loading such simple commands like right clicking a file? It sounds so absurd
The SSD makes all the difference in speed with Windows. 1TB SSD's are still expensive though.
You should try the built in Windows Defragment tool to see if you get a speed up.
Hi Tech gaf. Quick question.
So. I'm using a Gigabyte sniper M5. (which is an M-ATX board)
I have a Titan plugged into the first PCI slot.(which takes up two spaces) and a Sound card in the third.
Now here's my question.
I want to plug in a capture card into the forth, but when something is in the fourth slot it cuts the PCI lanes in half (from X16 to X8) which isn't good.
And i was thinking, if i were to disable the card from the device manager when i wasn't using it, would it give me back my bandwidth. ?
Thank you for your time, and sorry in advance for my poorly worded question.
So. I'm using a Gigabyte sniper M5. (which is an M-ATX board)
I have a Titan plugged into the first PCI slot.(which takes up two spaces) and a Sound card in the third.
Now here's my question.
I want to plug in a capture card into the forth, but when something is in the fourth slot it cuts the PCI lanes in half (from X16 to X8) which isn't good.
And i was thinking, if i were to disable the card from the device manager when i wasn't using it, would it give me back my bandwidth. ?
Thank you for your time, and sorry in advance for my poorly worded question.
VindictiveGnome
Member
I got a quick question. Right now I have a two monitor setup at my computer desk. Sometimes it's nice to just game on the TV and couch, though. Is there a one touch way to send everything (video/audio) to the TV? Right now I go into display settings, connect the TV and extend the display, make it the main display, make sure audio is outputting to the TV's HDMI, then turn off the two monitors on my desk. I'm hoping to streamline it and just be able to click a button to get all this to work. I'm on Windows 10, btw.
Yeh, but I'm talking about simple stuff like right clicking a random file, not even opening it, just right clicking, sometimes it gets stuck for like a minute. It's insane.
Or sometimes even opening a USB. Same thing.
I'll try the windows defragment tool, see what that does.
Could it possibly it being outdated drivers causing these hiccups?
Is there a way to easily upgrade them all ?
Vangmeister
Member
Does this happen if she's not on the computer for a bit? Try turning off hard drive suspension in the power options. I think by default it's set to 20 mins, even on high performance. Set it to 0 to turn it off. It could a spin up issue with the hard drive. For USB, turn off the selective power option also under the power options.
So, I think my ssd is dying. It's a Crucial mx100 512GB drive. Here are the errors it's given me:
"cannot write cause of an I\O error"
"not accessible the semaphore timeout period is expired"
Trying to run the AS SSD benchmark, It stops at the read portion and spits out:
"system.IO.IOException"
I reformated it and tried using it to store adobe premier temp files and it'll just disappear from my computer after a file is written to it.
Has anybody had experience with Crucial support?
"cannot write cause of an I\O error"
"not accessible the semaphore timeout period is expired"
Trying to run the AS SSD benchmark, It stops at the read portion and spits out:
"system.IO.IOException"
I reformated it and tried using it to store adobe premier temp files and it'll just disappear from my computer after a file is written to it.
Has anybody had experience with Crucial support?
Jzero
Member
It looks like the same laptop (same specs) just different listings
No, it happens from the get go.
It takes her longer to get to her login screen and desktop than it does for me, and my laptop is 3 years older than hers. Mines pretty much <20 seconds to get to desktop from hitting the power button. Hers would be a solid minute.
I couldn't find the hdd suspension option in the power options.
I did spend about an hour last night going on HP's website, and downloading all the latest drivers and stuff for her specifc laptop, and i THINK it improved it quite a bit but still am not sure. Will need to test it next time I can look at it.
Hey was wondering if anyone gad any advice for my poor gaming computer. It has been flawless up until now and I have no idea what to do.
For the past week it has been randomly turning itself off and on, and sometimes when it does come on the monitor says there is no signal, don't believe the problem is any of my cords or powerboard.
Took out and put back in the CMOS battery and no problems for 3 days but It started again and now everytime I turn it on there is no signal, hopefully it's not my graphics card.
For the past week it has been randomly turning itself off and on, and sometimes when it does come on the monitor says there is no signal, don't believe the problem is any of my cords or powerboard.
Took out and put back in the CMOS battery and no problems for 3 days but It started again and now everytime I turn it on there is no signal, hopefully it's not my graphics card.
When you are able to get it to boot, do you get a message about how the drivers have stopped responding? I've been having a similar issue and all signs have pointed me towards it either being my power supply or GPU being damaged during a power outage.
Thanks for the response no message at all about the drivers and can't check now that the monitor won't recognise a signal anymore, friend also suggested it might be the power supply.
Might have to take it into the computer shop which is a complete pain in the ass gotta carry the huge think around the shopping centre.
Copying here what i said in the other thread:
My goddamn PC "died". Problem unknown. I didn't see what happened, the power kept on but the display doesn't show anything, and oddly, KB/M do not light up, not even when clicking them (usually, they light up even if the PC is shutdown and PSU power switch is on).
Removed R9 390 and plugged cables (different ones) to mobo but not getting image still.
All fans work. There has been some odd noise for a couple of weeks, and i still hear it if i turn the PC on; probably just coil-whine though. Only SSD, so all noise-makers are accounted for.
Temps have been normal as far as i can determine and the computer does not shutdown so it cannot be a CPU-heat problem, probably.
Any ideas?
My friend was pretty mystified.
Will do proper testing tomorrow but... man, finding out what's wrong without getting image is gonna be difficult...
My goddamn PC "died". Problem unknown. I didn't see what happened, the power kept on but the display doesn't show anything, and oddly, KB/M do not light up, not even when clicking them (usually, they light up even if the PC is shutdown and PSU power switch is on).
Removed R9 390 and plugged cables (different ones) to mobo but not getting image still.
All fans work. There has been some odd noise for a couple of weeks, and i still hear it if i turn the PC on; probably just coil-whine though. Only SSD, so all noise-makers are accounted for.
Temps have been normal as far as i can determine and the computer does not shutdown so it cannot be a CPU-heat problem, probably.
Any ideas?
My friend was pretty mystified.
Will do proper testing tomorrow but... man, finding out what's wrong without getting image is gonna be difficult...
YMMV but depending on your tech store, you may be able to buy a PSU, test it to see if the issue is the PSU and, if it's not that part, return it, which would save you the trouble of lugging around your tower.
Dubbedinenglish
Banned
Ok my disk drive keeps opening and closing on my PC. I ran virus scans to find nothing but it still does it. Like it does it in super rapid succession. Could be mechanical?
Yeah, so, about my problem:
Detaching SSD does nothing. Thus i can probably rule out a SSD failure?
MemTest does not run no matter how long i press the button. !!
No mobo LEDs blink when starting the computer beside power LED which is lit as normal if PSU power switch is on.
Not a display problem obviously, the display works with different cables. Not a GPU problem either. Display just gets no signal from the PC.
All fans work, including PSU fan.
Unsure what to do. Do i remove memory DIMMs one at a time to test each one? Could a failed memory DIMM cause this problem? Though based on the manual, the indicator LED should stay lit after POST (which does not seem to be happening at all) if there is a problem.
EDIT Sure as hell wasn't due to DIMMs. No effect.
Frankly, this seems like CPU problem now...
Some specs:
Core i5-6600K
Asus Z170-A
Kingston (IIRC) DDR4, 2x8GB
Crucial BX100 SSD, 500GB
Detaching SSD does nothing. Thus i can probably rule out a SSD failure?
MemTest does not run no matter how long i press the button. !!
No mobo LEDs blink when starting the computer beside power LED which is lit as normal if PSU power switch is on.
Not a display problem obviously, the display works with different cables. Not a GPU problem either. Display just gets no signal from the PC.
All fans work, including PSU fan.
Unsure what to do. Do i remove memory DIMMs one at a time to test each one? Could a failed memory DIMM cause this problem? Though based on the manual, the indicator LED should stay lit after POST (which does not seem to be happening at all) if there is a problem.
EDIT Sure as hell wasn't due to DIMMs. No effect.
Frankly, this seems like CPU problem now...
Some specs:
Core i5-6600K
Asus Z170-A
Kingston (IIRC) DDR4, 2x8GB
Crucial BX100 SSD, 500GB
Zepp Twofist
Member
If I were to guess, your motherboard is broken. Can also be CPU, but I think mobo is the most likely. It's hard to test if you haven't got spare parts though.
Not necessarily a tech SUPPORT question, but wasn't sure where would be better to ask.
I built a PC in ~2011, and last year, converted it to a Hackintosh after becoming acclimated to OS X through school. After a while, I got tired of dealing with drivers / support / etc, and gave in to buy a legitimate iMac.
So now, I'm looking to sell the tower I built. I'm not sure how easy it is to sell a custom-built computer though am I better off just selling the components individually? Or are there buyers out there who would be interested in the full tower? I'm in Canada, so the only option I can think for selling it would be Kijiji, unless someone knows of a better way.
I'm also not sure what I should be charging, whether individually or together.
Asus Z77 Extreme4 Motherboard
i7 Ivy Bridge 3770K (3.5GHz)
Gigabyte AMD Radeon HD 7950 (3GB VRAM)
8 GB G Skill 1333 MHz DDR3 RAM (2 x 4GB)
Crucial M4 64GB SSD (CT064M4SSD2)
1TB HDD
ATX Case (~$80 when purchased)
Corsair 850W PSU (HX850)
Any advice?
I built a PC in ~2011, and last year, converted it to a Hackintosh after becoming acclimated to OS X through school. After a while, I got tired of dealing with drivers / support / etc, and gave in to buy a legitimate iMac.
So now, I'm looking to sell the tower I built. I'm not sure how easy it is to sell a custom-built computer though am I better off just selling the components individually? Or are there buyers out there who would be interested in the full tower? I'm in Canada, so the only option I can think for selling it would be Kijiji, unless someone knows of a better way.
I'm also not sure what I should be charging, whether individually or together.
Asus Z77 Extreme4 Motherboard
i7 Ivy Bridge 3770K (3.5GHz)
Gigabyte AMD Radeon HD 7950 (3GB VRAM)
8 GB G Skill 1333 MHz DDR3 RAM (2 x 4GB)
Crucial M4 64GB SSD (CT064M4SSD2)
1TB HDD
ATX Case (~$80 when purchased)
Corsair 850W PSU (HX850)
Any advice?
Zepp Twofist
Member
The PC builder thread might have people better equipped to answer stuff about prices in different markets.
Robot Carnival
Member
I'm trying to see if I can fix this problem I have with my laptop via help of GAF.
so earlier this year my laptop started to act kinda odd. the battery won't recharge and I have to keep the thing plug in (not like I unplugs it that often anyway thou). Windows also won't update any more, and keeps telling me that there are updates to be install while there's nothing there. I took some screenshots, hopefully someone can help me with this. much appreciated.
does this have anything to do with me still using Windows 7?
so earlier this year my laptop started to act kinda odd. the battery won't recharge and I have to keep the thing plug in (not like I unplugs it that often anyway thou). Windows also won't update any more, and keeps telling me that there are updates to be install while there's nothing there. I took some screenshots, hopefully someone can help me with this. much appreciated.
does this have anything to do with me still using Windows 7?
Se7enSword
Banned
Hello again, TechGAF!
This time I have another bizarre issue, my laptop's control key has stopped functioning on its own. Both, the left and the right one. It works rarely, like 2~3 minutes in a day, then just stops functioning. This issues occurred since 2 days ago.
Last night I was messing around with all the keys in my keyboard and it suddenly worked, but then a few minutes later the problem resumed. So i'm certain that's it's not a hardware issue, especially since i've barely ever used the right CTRL key as well. Copy/Pasting is a nightmare right now, and I would really like to get it resolved.
The laptop is a Sager NP8268-S with a Windows 10 OS, using an external keyboard is unfortunately not an option for me right now (It does work though).
I don't use sticky keys or anything, so that's not causing an issue. I did try pressing Alt+Fn+Ctrl and that did nothing. Tried uninstalling the driver and rebooting which did nothing as well. Any advice/suggestions?
This time I have another bizarre issue, my laptop's control key has stopped functioning on its own. Both, the left and the right one. It works rarely, like 2~3 minutes in a day, then just stops functioning. This issues occurred since 2 days ago.
Last night I was messing around with all the keys in my keyboard and it suddenly worked, but then a few minutes later the problem resumed. So i'm certain that's it's not a hardware issue, especially since i've barely ever used the right CTRL key as well. Copy/Pasting is a nightmare right now, and I would really like to get it resolved.
The laptop is a Sager NP8268-S with a Windows 10 OS, using an external keyboard is unfortunately not an option for me right now (It does work though).
I don't use sticky keys or anything, so that's not causing an issue. I did try pressing Alt+Fn+Ctrl and that did nothing. Tried uninstalling the driver and rebooting which did nothing as well. Any advice/suggestions?
Jzero
Member
I'm going to guess that your battery is dead, how old is the laptop?
To make sure follow this to remove the battery from the device manager
http://www.pcworld.com/article/225265/battery_not_charging.html
If the key works on an external keyboard then it is a hardware problem. I had never even heard of Sager before.
I did a bit of googling and some people say that power cycling can help fix their keys for some reason so try this:
• Shut down the laptop
• Remove battery
• Press and hold the power button for 60 seconds
• Replace the battery
• Start the laptop
You might also need to clean your keyboard with compressed air just in case there's something stuck under the keys
Zepp Twofist
Member
That it works with an external keyboard is a clue that it's probably HW related. It's not inconceivable for both CTRL keys to be wired on the same grid, but I would almost assume more than two keys would be affected if that were the case (though I am not that familiar with the finer details of how a keyboard works).
You might end up needing to replace the keyboard if the aforementioned cleaning/power cycle doesn't resolve anything.
Se7enSword
Banned
Errr no, i didn't mean it like that.
It's a built-in keyboard, i can't plug it in to any other device. I meant that I could use an external keyboard and not bother with this issue, but i don't have that option right now.
it does work on its own, i know it's not a cleaning issue or anything of the sort.
It's a built-in keyboard, i can't plug it in to any other device. I meant that I could use an external keyboard and not bother with this issue, but i don't have that option right now.
it does work on its own, i know it's not a cleaning issue or anything of the sort.
I'll try this later tonight, thanks!
HawksWinStanley
Member
Does anybody have any solid suggestions for a wireless router under $100?
I do pretty heavy video streaming and gaming, often at the same time.
It just needs to be compatible with Comcast and be reliable. I'm coming from a Netgear WNDR4500 which I actually liked but the support for it was nonexistent and apparently they're susceptible to power outages which I found out after the storm we had last night and it bricked.
I've been looking at the TP-Link Archer C5 or C7 since it seems to get the most praise when searching but when I read buyer reviews on Amazon and Newegg they don't seem all that great.
I do pretty heavy video streaming and gaming, often at the same time.
It just needs to be compatible with Comcast and be reliable. I'm coming from a Netgear WNDR4500 which I actually liked but the support for it was nonexistent and apparently they're susceptible to power outages which I found out after the storm we had last night and it bricked.
I've been looking at the TP-Link Archer C5 or C7 since it seems to get the most praise when searching but when I read buyer reviews on Amazon and Newegg they don't seem all that great.
White_sox
Member
Hey guys I have a monitor issue. I've had the monitor (ASUS VW246H) for about 6 years and I can no longer get power to it. When I plug it in, I can occasionally get the power button to blink, but it's just for a split second.
I purchased a new power cord, but that did not help.
Does anyone have any troubleshooting ideas or is it time to purchase a new monitor?
I purchased a new power cord, but that did not help.
Does anyone have any troubleshooting ideas or is it time to purchase a new monitor?
Jzero
Member
It's time buddy. It's probably a blown capacitor that you won't be able to replace yourself anyway.
White_sox
Member
Thanks for the response. Considering the miles I've gotten out of it, I guess I can't complain. Any suggestions on a 24-27 inch monitor? My only real request is that it has an HDMI port.
Se7enSword
Banned
Unfortunately none of the supposed solutions work at all.
Kinda frustrating that it works whenever it feels like it. Oh well, I guess i'll see if reformatting can clear it up.
Kinda frustrating that it works whenever it feels like it. Oh well, I guess i'll see if reformatting can clear it up.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
So I've got a serious problem going on. I've been using my PC this way for I don't even know how long but I only just now noticed the insane temps I'm getting. I'm using a Hyper 212 which I know for sure is installed properly. I'm not really sure how I could improve upon the airflow in my case (Corsair 200R... it's not the easiest to figure out how to cool.) I've got three exhaust and three intake (Exhaust out of rear and top and intake on bottom and two in front).
Last I checked I didn't get temps over 80 degrees under load. I'm not overclocking anything and have no fucking clue what could be causing these kinds of temps. As a precautionary measure I bought a Noctua NH-D15 and three Noctua case fans but those will take roughly a week to arrive. In the meantime I kind of don't want to use my computer because... well... have a look. Does anyone have any advice?
These are my temps after about 10 seconds running Intel Burn Test.
Last I checked I didn't get temps over 80 degrees under load. I'm not overclocking anything and have no fucking clue what could be causing these kinds of temps. As a precautionary measure I bought a Noctua NH-D15 and three Noctua case fans but those will take roughly a week to arrive. In the meantime I kind of don't want to use my computer because... well... have a look. Does anyone have any advice?
These are my temps after about 10 seconds running Intel Burn Test.
Here's one for you guys...
My friends parents computer died and they want me to backup the user documents. I took the HDD out of the broken computer and put it into mine.. the disk is divided into a few partitions but its basically empty save for some core windows folders.
The user account is missing and so is the Program Files folder, the operating system is clearly corrupted right?
I found a random log file called SetupAct_offline.log under $SysReset/Logs and the second line in it is this:
Yeah... So my question is, what's the best open source program for me to recover some deleted documents from the computer? I tried TestDisk PhotoRec or whatever it was but its literally dragging every single file temp or otherwise thats ever been on the computer and dumping them into unsorted folders. Is there anything better that could perhaps scan and find the documents/pictures folder for example? I told my friend about the troubles I'm having and they said pictures of their old doggy is the most important thing to recover.
Any help would be much appreciated guys.
Edit: In response to Mineshaft_Gap, when did you last check the temperature with it not going above 80c? Could it simply be the summer weather and ambient temperature of the room causing the increase in cpu temp? What temps do you hit when gaming because i've never used Intel Burn Test. Let us know what difference the new CPU cooler makes, I personally wouldn't worry too much, even then if it gets too hot it will shut itself down to prevent any damage yeah?
My friends parents computer died and they want me to backup the user documents. I took the HDD out of the broken computer and put it into mine.. the disk is divided into a few partitions but its basically empty save for some core windows folders.
The user account is missing and so is the Program Files folder, the operating system is clearly corrupted right?
I found a random log file called SetupAct_offline.log under $SysReset/Logs and the second line in it is this:
Yeah... So my question is, what's the best open source program for me to recover some deleted documents from the computer? I tried TestDisk PhotoRec or whatever it was but its literally dragging every single file temp or otherwise thats ever been on the computer and dumping them into unsorted folders. Is there anything better that could perhaps scan and find the documents/pictures folder for example? I told my friend about the troubles I'm having and they said pictures of their old doggy is the most important thing to recover.
Any help would be much appreciated guys.
Edit: In response to Mineshaft_Gap, when did you last check the temperature with it not going above 80c? Could it simply be the summer weather and ambient temperature of the room causing the increase in cpu temp? What temps do you hit when gaming because i've never used Intel Burn Test. Let us know what difference the new CPU cooler makes, I personally wouldn't worry too much, even then if it gets too hot it will shut itself down to prevent any damage yeah?
Compressed air? Shit gets dirty.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
Very clean inside the case, I've dusted everything and results haven't changed. I'm going to reseat the heatsink when I have the chance. Unfortunately my Amazon prime sub ran out and I need to order new TIM.
Mineshaft_Gap
4077th
I was getting temps close to 90 (high 80s) in Crisis 3. My noticing of the high temps using the MSI Afterburner OSD is what led to my discovery of the issue in the first place.