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[Somnid]

Alright this has been bugging me for months and I can't figure it out:

I have a Buffalo AirStation WZR-HP-G300NH that all of my devices connect to the internet through wirelessly and some crappy cable modem connected that. Now my problem is occasionally local computers become unreachable. They don't show up in homegroup or the network folder on any computer on the network. This usually happens after a period of days and I need to reset the router to be able to see them again. This doesn't affect internet connectivity at all, as all computers can still see the router.

My dad said it might be the lease duration but I can't even find an option to change that and it seems rather variable (sometimes it takes days for this to happen and sometimes weeks). Any good ideas?

 

[Slavik81]

I see this when playing flash video... Sometimes.

Other sorts of video seem perfectly ok. In switching back and forth between the html5 beta on youtube, I found that in flash, I'd get the green bar and the offset colors, but in html5 I wouldn't.

Thoughts and/or solutions? Hardware? Software?
Win7 32bit
Atom/ION based laptop (ASUS eee 1215N)

 

[LogicStep]

Recently, past month or so, my computer sometimes freezes after it boots up. Windows will boot up, I will hear the boot up sound and my icons and everything starts to load but after a few seconds before it is done loading everything it freezes. I have to reset and try again, usually takes 1 or 2 resets before it boots up normally.

Anyone know what may be causing this?

 

[f0nz0]

gahhh, ok heres another problem im facing,

windows 7 32bit
hp tx 1000

last night my wifi adapter completely stopped working, when i go to network sharing center, the adapter does not show up, when i go to device manager i see that i have a Yellow stop sign on the WAN MINIPOR IKEV2 driver, i cant connect to the internet to search for the driver automatically, i see that the actula driver is named agilevpn.sys so i downloaded that file and tried to update the driver manually, but windows says that my version is the latest version of the file, and still no internet connectivity,

any suggestions?

 

[Rewrite]

I don't know if anyone can help, but here it goes:

I have a 2Wire Router that was given to me through AT&T's DSL service a long time ago. I get an OK signal in my room, but if I move out towards other rooms, the signal becomes much weaker. Is there any way I can increase the signal of the router (It's set on channel 11)? Would I need to invest in a new router that distributes the wireless signal better and if so, what would you guys recommend for a good router? I've heard about bridging connections, but I'm not really informed about the subject. I've also heard you can buy like signal amplifiers, but I don't know if they're really going to get the job done.

 

[X26]

I always have the following in my hidden icons (Win7): adobe update, windows update, and java update

even when I click them and install any updates, I still have them there on my next startup. I'm worried them always being active is putting a strain on my netbook's battery life

 

[Zenith]

I have an Nvidia 8800 GT 512mb. It's damaged and gives artifacts during boot-up, crashes during windows and control panel says it's not enabled due to a code 10.

However it has the only plug socket to connect to my monitor. Whilst I wait for an RMA, is there a way to disable it so it's not affecting system stability but can still use the socket on the back? My CPU is powerful enough to handle all the Windows rendering.

Will VGA mode or safe mode do it, or will it still crash due to hardware?

 

[GraveRobberX]

Hey how good is the p6100 intel chip for PC gaming?

I got a Vaio that can play some games, was wondering if I can some decent games?

 

[clav]

Hey how good is the p6100 intel chip for PC gaming?

I got a Vaio that can play some games, was wondering if I can some decent games?

It's basically a Core 2 Duo in performance. As for gaming, get a desktop for that. You'll need a dedicated graphics card which laptops aren't very good for that kind of application.

Laptop gaming IMO is a no-no. Too bulky in size. Lots of heat. Less better life and heavy.

I don't know if anyone can help, but here it goes:

I have a 2Wire Router that was given to me through AT&T's DSL service a long time ago. I get an OK signal in my room, but if I move out towards other rooms, the signal becomes much weaker. Is there any way I can increase the signal of the router (It's set on channel 11)? Would I need to invest in a new router that distributes the wireless signal better and if so, what would you guys recommend for a good router? I've heard about bridging connections, but I'm not really informed about the subject. I've also heard you can buy like signal amplifiers, but I don't know if they're really going to get the job done.

Channel 11, lol. Higher numbers don't mean better. Too many devices these days use the 2.4 Ghz spectrum hence why signals are getting degraded faster at range (i.e. microwaves, cordless phones, cell phones.) If you have a tool that can scan what channel is not occupied, do so, and use a channel that is open and not shared by any nearby routers.

A more viable solution would be to hardwire your workstation using ethernet over power lines. You plug in these adapters into your electrical wall and they have ethernet ports. These will be connected via your power line so you can hardwire to the modem/router with ethernet cables at long distances in your house. Then, move the wireless router to a spot you'd feel you will spend your time wireless on. However, these adapters are not cheap ($50-$60 USD), so tell me your budget, and see what we can work from there.

Aside from the topic, I would get a new router (preferably that runs Tomato firmware) as I'm not a fan of all-in-one solutions. That way you can replace parts when they go down yourself. If decide so, then you would need to set your modem to bridge mode and enter your PPPOE information in the router.

gahhh, ok heres another problem im facing,

windows 7 32bit
hp tx 1000

last night my wifi adapter completely stopped working, when i go to network sharing center, the adapter does not show up, when i go to device manager i see that i have a Yellow stop sign on the WAN MINIPOR IKEV2 driver, i cant connect to the internet to search for the driver automatically, i see that the actula driver is named agilevpn.sys so i downloaded that file and tried to update the driver manually, but windows says that my version is the latest version of the file, and still no internet connectivity,

any suggestions?

Remove the wireless driver completely from Device Manager. Reinstall using the driver you downloaded.

If that doesn't work, does it work under Linux? Try a Live CD distro and report back.

I have an Nvidia 8800 GT 512mb. It's damaged and gives artifacts during boot-up, crashes during windows and control panel says it's not enabled due to a code 10.

However it has the only plug socket to connect to my monitor. Whilst I wait for an RMA, is there a way to disable it so it's not affecting system stability but can still use the socket on the back? My CPU is powerful enough to handle all the Windows rendering.

Will VGA mode or safe mode do it, or will it still crash due to hardware?

Just try it in safe mode. If it doesn't work and if you don't have friends who have old hardware that you can borrow from, then you're SOL.

I always have the following in my hidden icons (Win7): adobe update, windows update, and java update

even when I click them and install any updates, I still have them there on my next startup. I'm worried them always being active is putting a strain on my netbook's battery life

Having processes run will chew up CPU cycles. They are still active after installing? Something is not right.

One solution is to just use Chrome and uninstall all the Adobe stuff to get rid of Adobe update all together as Chrome has its own PDF reader and Flash player.

As for Java, if you absolutely need it, then definitely install each update. Each update brings security fixes otherwise your computer will be vulnerable even with proper protection. The most popular Java exploit is one utilized by Vundo. Otherwise, if you don't use Java, then uninstall completely. It's a bloated piece of shit.

Recently, past month or so, my computer sometimes freezes after it boots up. Windows will boot up, I will hear the boot up sound and my icons and everything starts to load but after a few seconds before it is done loading everything it freezes. I have to reset and try again, usually takes 1 or 2 resets before it boots up normally.

Anyone know what may be causing this?

Windows version?

If you can, there's a program called Event Viewer included with Windows. See if there are any "Critical" errors under the main window and report back. If you peruse the log in event viewer, it will actually tell you what your computer is doing at each time interval.

I see this when playing flash video... Sometimes.

Other sorts of video seem perfectly ok. In switching back and forth between the html5 beta on youtube, I found that in flash, I'd get the green bar and the offset colors, but in html5 I wouldn't.

Thoughts and/or solutions? Hardware? Software?
Win7 32bit
Atom/ION based laptop (ASUS eee 1215N)

Looks like artifacting possibly from the ION 2 chip. From what I read I heard the ION 2 was a downgrade from the ION 1, so it wasn't very good compared to the first ION. Nvidia dropped the ball on that one.

Check to see if your drivers are updated from Nvidia's site.

Alright this has been bugging me for months and I can't figure it out:

I have a Buffalo AirStation WZR-HP-G300NH that all of my devices connect to the internet through wirelessly and some crappy cable modem connected that. Now my problem is occasionally local computers become unreachable. They don't show up in homegroup or the network folder on any computer on the network. This usually happens after a period of days and I need to reset the router to be able to see them again. This doesn't affect internet connectivity at all, as all computers can still see the router.

My dad said it might be the lease duration but I can't even find an option to change that and it seems rather variable (sometimes it takes days for this to happen and sometimes weeks). Any good ideas?

Install a custom firmware called DD-WRT. Buffalo actually supports this themselves and made one available below. It is a newer version than the one on dd-wrt's homepage.

Download firmware: http://www.buffalotech.com/support/getfile/wzrhpg300nh-pro-v24sp2-14998.zip

You can upgrade this using the web GUI on your router. If I were you, I would definitely do this with a hard-wired ethernet cable. I've bricked a few routers trying to upgrade wirelessly due to a weak signal. I don't think you would like to go through the recovery process of building a JTAG cable and soldering it on to the board.

Not every song on iTunes has the right album. Some songs don't even have album covers. I'm too lazy to go through every song to pick out the ones with the right covers and the ones with the wrong covers and or none at all. Is there an addon to iTunes that doesn't replace iTunes and finds all the right album art?

Rip your music from your own collection, not from the Internet. You're SOL if you download it, and it doesn't have it. There's no such tool.

Hello, GAF. I need some help. Earlier I was playing Poker Night and my computer just shut down right in the middle of gameplay. Now when I turn it back on, my HD4890 has its fan on full blast (ridiculously loud) and nothing is displayed on my monitor. I've never had a problem like this for the year that I've had the card so I don't know what to do. ATI/AMD's site didn't really help and I don't want to try to RMA it yet. Anyone have an idea?

Sounds like your computer overheated. It shutdown to protect you. Was it hot when you touched the inners?

Monitor-GAF, help!

I have a Dell U2311H and Asus VG236H 3D/120hz monitor and I'm having a sudden problem with the Asus. I've had it for over a week now and I just moved...for some reason after reconnecting my PC I'm experiencing resolution issues.

Basically, Nvidia control panel keeps defaulting to "HD" mode which sets the monitor to 1920x1080, 60hz. However, when I try to set it back to "PC" mode, 1920x1080, 120hz, the screen resolution looks awful. Like, worse than 800x600 awful. Text is unreadable and the games look really poor.

I really have no idea what's causing it...it was perfectly fine 2 days ago so the only thing I can think of was maybe it was damaged in the move, despite how careful I was. Has anyone experienced this before?

Thanks...

Get another monitor that supports 120 HZ. Sounds like the computer is trying to put both monitors in a compatible mode for each other which would be 60 HZ.

For the meanwhile, just connect the one that does 120Hz and see if that works.

So I have a problem:

I have a Seagate FreeAgent 250gb. I'm trying to back up my my music folder on my Windows 7 x64 computer. It takes an extremely long time to actually back up the music file (I left it running for 1.5 hours, and still had 45 gigs left to transfer of a 48 gig file...). Then I start getting this error code (0x800704D)

I've transferred files from my external to my PC...which also takes an excruciating long time. Hell, it also takes an excruciating long time to access the actual external Hard Drive on Windows.

When I hook it up to an Ubuntu-powered laptop, however, I can quickly access and transfer files from and to the external though.

Anybody know what's up?

How does the computer react transferring files under safe mode? Try that and report back.

Is there a way on a Vista PC to see what programs, if any, are taking up bandwidth? Lately I'm getting a ton of latency and disconnects in online games, I thought it was my router at first but I still get it even when my PC is plugged directly into my modem. I don't have any bit torrent or P2P stuff open either, I'm wondering if it's some trojan, even though i've run checks with Malwarebytes and Microsoft Security Essentials.

Go to broadbandreports.com (or dslreports.com) and do a line test. I also recommend getting an account (free) to keep records of your tests and their forums have access to level 3 technicians and higher for faster troubleshooting support regarding your internet connection.

Post your results.

http://www.dslreports.com/pingtest

Specifically here. It'll test your connection using west coast and east coast USA servers.

You should be getting better ping the closer the location is and overall green colors. If your tests are showing a lot of yellow and red colors, then something's wrong with your internet physically. You'll need your ISP technician to come out and take a look at your connection.

 

[mrklaw]

I've just bought a Windows 7 laptop for 'family' use - mainly because the kids are needing one for homework and the MBP is not familar to them.

My wife is used to the Japanese IME on Windows XP, and she's having trouble with the Windows 7 version, which is different enough to annoy.

Firstly, the text you're typing doesn't appear in the app (Word 2010), it appears in a little floating window in the top-left corner of the screen. Is there any way to get it to appear in-line like it does on XP?

Secondly, after you type a word, you press 'enter' to confirm it. But then she can't type anything else. You seem to have to press cursor right to reset something and then when you type it appears in the floating window. Previously, just pressing enter was enough and you could carry on writing.

Any ideas?

 

[VALIS]

Nearly brand new AMD 6-core/GTX 470/watercooled machine shut it self off on Sunday, and subsequent attempts to turn it back on would see it stay powered up anywhere between 2-5 minutes before shutting itself off again. I figured it was a power supply issue, but took it to Geek Squad (I don't have the time to sort this shit out myself at the moment) where after multiple tests it was revealed to be a damaged motherboard. Sucks my balls. It's an Asus M4A77T, for what it's worth, if you're custom building and want to avoid this broken-in-2-months piece of shit.

 

[runlikehell]

EDIT: never mind, it's all sorted.

 

[brandonh83]

Nearly brand new AMD 6-core/GTX 470/watercooled machine shut it self off on Sunday, and subsequent attempts to turn it back on would see it stay powered up anywhere between 2-5 minutes before shutting itself off again. I figured it was a power supply issue, but took it to Geek Squad (I don't have the time to sort this shit out myself at the moment) where after multiple tests it was revealed to be a damaged motherboard. Sucks my balls. It's an Asus M4A77T, for what it's worth, if you're custom building and want to avoid this broken-in-2-months piece of shit.

My PC is experiencing random restarts too. Totally random though-- sometimes it's on for 20-30 minutes, sometimes, about 30 seconds. I've tried an assortment of things, from virus scanners to opening the PC, cleaning it out, making sure everything is seated properly, etc. So I'm not sure if it's an overheating issue, a motherboard issue, or a power supply issue.

When I start it in safe mode, it still happens, for whatever that's worth. Some info, it's a Gateway, purchased last summer, Windows 7, with an Acer motherboard, 650GB RAM, NVidia G210 card.

 

[Lionel Mandrake]

Recently opened up Garry's Mod after not playing in a long time. I noticed that since I've played that they've added a "ToyBox" option, and I was having some fun with that, and eventually I tried opening a helicopter. The game crashed, and my wireless stopped responding. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get my PC to detect my wireless adapter. I eventually shut it down, and ended up getting a quick blue screen before the whole thing powered off. Upon turning on my PC I got a the usual "Unexpected shutdown" message and whatever. I started up GMod again and started playing around some more, and then my connection died mid-download. The game didn't crash this time, I was just stuck in infinite download until I quit. My connection was gone again, adapter not responding.

I haven't had any connection problems before, and although my PC isn't amazing, it's enough to run Crysis at moderate settings (Albeit with a terrible framerate). I'm fairly certain I should be able to run these files.

Any quick fixes for this?

 

[clav]

Recently opened up Garry's Mod after not playing in a long time. I noticed that since I've played that they've added a "ToyBox" option, and I was having some fun with that, and eventually I tried opening a helicopter. The game crashed, and my wireless stopped responding. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get my PC to detect my wireless adapter. I eventually shut it down, and ended up getting a quick blue screen before the whole thing powered off. Upon turning on my PC I got a the usual "Unexpected shutdown" message and whatever. I started up GMod again and started playing around some more, and then my connection died mid-download. The game didn't crash this time, I was just stuck in infinite download until I quit. My connection was gone again, adapter not responding.

I haven't had any connection problems before, and although my PC isn't amazing, it's enough to run Crysis at moderate settings (Albeit with a terrible framerate). I'm fairly certain I should be able to run these files.

Any quick fixes for this?

Check your wireless + video card drivers. What are your temps inside your PC during gaming? Have you checked them recently?

I've just bought a Windows 7 laptop for 'family' use - mainly because the kids are needing one for homework and the MBP is not familar to them.

My wife is used to the Japanese IME on Windows XP, and she's having trouble with the Windows 7 version, which is different enough to annoy.

Firstly, the text you're typing doesn't appear in the app (Word 2010), it appears in a little floating window in the top-left corner of the screen. Is there any way to get it to appear in-line like it does on XP?

Secondly, after you type a word, you press 'enter' to confirm it. But then she can't type anything else. You seem to have to press cursor right to reset something and then when you type it appears in the floating window. Previously, just pressing enter was enough and you could carry on writing.

Any ideas?

How did you setup your Japanese IME? Mine works just fine. I type words into word, chrome, internet explorer, notepad, or whatever program, and it works by changing words on the screen, not in the little box you described.

This is how I did it:

http://www.coscom.co.jp/learnjapanese801/msime-win7-1.html

Are you typing in Hiragana mode?

Nearly brand new AMD 6-core/GTX 470/watercooled machine shut it self off on Sunday, and subsequent attempts to turn it back on would see it stay powered up anywhere between 2-5 minutes before shutting itself off again. I figured it was a power supply issue, but took it to Geek Squad (I don't have the time to sort this shit out myself at the moment) where after multiple tests it was revealed to be a damaged motherboard. Sucks my balls. It's an Asus M4A77T, for what it's worth, if you're custom building and want to avoid this broken-in-2-months piece of shit.

A computer shuts itself down when it experiences overheating as a precautionary measure. Other times, it can mean the motherboard went bad if the heatsinks are getting hot, and it's still shutting down.

Just RMA your motherboard. As for the water-cooling, I was never a fan (pun not intended). How heavy in terms of weight was that setup?

 

[Ashhong]

Can someone help me with getting asian characters to work properly? I have korean songs on my ipod. In iTunes and my iPod the characters show up fine. However if I actually right click the song and press "get info" the characters show up as weird boxes. I wouldnt care except that the titles dont show up at all on my cars system.

in short, Korean MP3 tags show in itunes but not when right I look at the details of the song. How can I make it always show?

 

[Schrade]

Can someone help me with getting asian characters to work properly? I have korean songs on my ipod. In iTunes and my iPod the characters show up fine. However if I actually right click the song and press "get info" the characters show up as weird boxes. I wouldnt care except that the titles dont show up at all on my cars system.

in short, Korean MP3 tags show in itunes but not when right I look at the details of the song. How can I make it always show?

You kind of need to specify OS...

 

[Ashhong]

You kind of need to specify OS...

My bad. Windows 7 64bit. I noticed that if I look at the properties of the korean tracks through windows explorer as well, and go to details, they come out as boxes. However I can see the korean characters in the file name. Weird. I feel like I'm explaining this poorly so I took a pic

Notice how the file name shows the characters but the tags do not. However the iTunes issue is even more confusing.

Arent I seeing the tags in Korean in the library? Why cant I see the characters in the "info" box?

 

[Schrade]

Have you installed the Korean Language Pack from Windows Update?

 

[Ashhong]

Have you installed the Korean Language Pack from Windows Update?

Do I need Windows Ultimate for that? I guess I haven't...but why is it showing in the Windows Explorer?

The reason I'm trying to fix this is because I was hoping it had something to do that unicode text stuff. I'm trying to get it to work on my cars system, and I think its related to these Windows problems.

 

[Schrade]

Do I need Windows Ultimate for that? I guess I haven't...but why is it showing in the Windows Explorer?

The reason I'm trying to fix this is because I was hoping it had something to do that unicode text stuff. I'm trying to get it to work on my cars system, and I think its related to these Windows problems.

You shouldn't need Ultimate but stupider things have been done by Microsoft.

Definitely go to your Windows Update, go to the optional updates (non critical) and if you see language packs there, install the Korean one. Maybe it'll fix the characters in the media/tag info.

 

[Ashhong]

You shouldn't need Ultimate but stupider things have been done by Microsoft.

Definitely go to your Windows Update, go to the optional updates (non critical) and if you see language packs there, install the Korean one. Maybe it'll fix the characters in the media/tag info.

Dont see language options, but I did find this in the help section when trying to find out how to install language packs

The Display language section will only be visible if you have already installed an LIP or if your edition of Windows supports an MUI. MUIs are only available in Windows 7 Ultimate and Windows 7 Enterprise.

Ridiculous. Another thing to note is that these same files display fine on OSX iTunes AND that when I load the songs onto my iPod through my Mac, the songs display in my car as well. Is Windows somehow changing my tags into a different text or something?

 

[NameGenerated]

Sounds like your computer overheated. It shutdown to protect you. Was it hot when you touched the inners?

I already replaced the card, so this is pretty much pointless now, but I'm pretty sure the thing just died. Numerous reviews on Newegg describe the same problem of nothing happens but the fan runs at 100% full blast.

 

[CrayzeeCarl]

Dont see language options, but I did find this in the help section when trying to find out how to install language packs



Ridiculous. Another thing to note is that these same files display fine on OSX iTunes AND that when I load the songs onto my iPod through my Mac, the songs display in my car as well. Is Windows somehow changing my tags into a different text or something?

I believe the issue with the boxes might just be the font used to display the text. If the character doesn't have a glyph defined in that font, it will just show a box instead.

I'm a developer and have run into this problem with my own Windows apps recently. I was able to fix it by changing the font from the default (MS Sans Serif) to Arial Unicode MS. So basically, I'm not sure there's anything the end user can do about this in iTunes except log it as a bug. In the Windows file properties however, there may be a font setting in the desktop appearance settings somewhere that controls that.

 

[jts]

Hey guys.

So I have set up an FTP server on my FreeNAS.

It's working fine and dandy with a dyndns domain, its port is properly forwarded, etc.

My gripe with it is that it works fast on a program like Cyberduck, but crawlingly slow via browser (in this case, Chrome). It's the difference between opening a directory instantly, or taking like 30 seconds.

Any reason for this?

 

[Ashhong]

I believe the issue with the boxes might just be the font used to display the text. If the character doesn't have a glyph defined in that font, it will just show a box instead.

I'm a developer and have run into this problem with my own Windows apps recently. I was able to fix it by changing the font from the default (MS Sans Serif) to Arial Unicode MS. So basically, I'm not sure there's anything the end user can do about this in iTunes except log it as a bug. In the Windows file properties however, there may be a font setting in the desktop appearance settings somewhere that controls that.

I'll have to look around for that. Any idea why my tags would change after importing to Windows 7 iTunes? They were visible in my car before, but now they arent.

 

[Ashhong]

So I guess nobody really knows what I should do about the language issue, oh well. But i have a new thing.

I put my computer (Windows 7 64bit) on sleep mode for the first time the other day. When I tried to bring it back, it turned off and started to do a complete reboot. It then said that Express Gate, an Asus program to help with the BIOS or osmething was uninstalled. THEN it said that my BIOS settings were erased or something and I had to change the time and all my bios settings again. WTF happened?

 

[Binabik15]

My brother´s pc won´t play music/sounds anymore. Vids work, but without sound. Windows Media Player gives the following failure number: C00D11B1. The webhelp isn´t really hepful, though, because the drivers are up to date, no new audio card was installed etc. Other programs like itunes, youtube, dvix don´t have sound, either.

There´s nothing loose or with bad contact on the hardware side.

It made a couple of windows sounds for me, which it didn´t for my brother, but nothing else.

Halp.

 

[Ashhong]

By any chance is it hooked up via HDMI for audio?

 

[Binabik15]

By any chance is it hooked up via HDMI for audio?

Nope.

Edit: this error message shows up when the pc is told to shut down.

 

[Slayven]

Firefox is no longer allowing me to scrolling the tabs with the mousewheel, did i hit some setting that turned it off?

 

[Piano]

Firefox is no longer allowing me to scrolling the tabs with the mousewheel, did i hit some setting that turned it off?

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/6501/?

 

[Fixed1979]

Excel question...hopefully someone has a solution.

I've created a basic spreadsheet to keep track of items I've ordered (for work). I have one column that is set up to tell me if the material is late or not.

G3 is my expected date and N3 is the balance I'm still expected.

=IF(G3="","",IF(AND(G3<TODAY(),N3<>""),"LATE","NOT DUE"))

Basically - If due date is blank then my "late" field is blank. Otherwise if it's not blank and it's earlier than todays date and my outstanding balance isn't blank then my shits late, otherwise it's still not due.

This works great...sort of...

So if the date I expect it is earlier than today and there's still material outstanding it will state "LATE".

I'm pretty sure I need this to auto-update when I open the spreadsheet or else unless I physically change the value of G3 or N3 my column that tells me if it's late or not won't actually let me know that my shit is late...

Hope that makes sense and someone can help...

 

[LogicStep]

Windows version?

If you can, there's a program called Event Viewer included with Windows. See if there are any "Critical" errors under the main window and report back. If you peruse the log in event viewer, it will actually tell you what your computer is doing at each time interval.

Yes I checked, this is what I found.

 

[Kirby102]

Hey TechGAF, I recently been handed down a computer from my friend, he gave me his Gigabyte GA-G32M-S2L MB and a 320GB SATA HDD. Now, the thing is I'm trying to format the HDD and do a clean install with Windows 7 64-bit, though once I click "Install Now" on the installer, Windows has a cry and says "Windows could not retrieve information about the disks on this computer".

I've been configuring my BIOS, which it has jack all, and it doesnt even have the SATA drivers for it. What do? I've been at it for a week already, it's quite annoying.

Cheers.

 

[LogicStep]

Man I'm trying to figure this out but I have no idea what could be causing my problem. For some reason I'm thinking maybe my power supply is going bad but I'm not sure how to go about testing if it is.

 

[BeeDog]

Sorry for bumping this topic, but I've run into some networking issues that I can't seem to solve.

Just the other day, my main stationary PC at home has had extremely slow access to the Internet; some pages that I know are working fine simply refuse to work at all (e.g. www.trackitdown.net), while other pages can be accessed somewhat fast. This is on a 100 Mbit Comhem connection (Sweden).

I have a modem connected to the ISP/wall here (coaxial/BNC cable I think), and a D-Link DIR-655 router connected to the modem, and then my PC is connected to the router. This setup hasn't given me any problems for months, but just now my Internet is awfully slow.

I connected my laptop wirelessly to the DIR-655 router, and I can access any web page just fine. I've done some minor troubleshooting so far; restarting both the modem and the router, flushing the DNS on my PC etc. But I seriously can't figure out how to troubleshoot this.

Can someone provide some hints on how I can proceed? Thanks in advance.

 

[Meus Renaissance]

There is a file on my desktop that I want to delete but it causes Explorer to crash whenever I even access that location (or the file). So I'm thinking of using cmd to remove it, but when I delete it using that it won't be in the Recycle Bin. So is that the same as deleting a file (normally) and then removing it from Recycle Bin?

 

[Fixed1979]

Man I'm trying to figure this out but I have no idea what could be causing my problem. For some reason I'm thinking maybe my power supply is going bad but I'm not sure how to go about testing if it is.

I haven't read all your post, but if your computer isn't restarting or shutting down then I doubt it's your power supply. If you still want to test it the only way I know of is a multimeter.

Can someone provide some hints on how I can proceed? Thanks in advance.

The website you provided is down so that may be the culprit. If some sites are running normally and other not then it's usually a server side (website) issue and not a user issue. You can always play around with a speed test website to see if you connection is actually slower than normal.

 

[slider]

HP laptop, G70 with a small screen problem. I've snapped a pic (but having only viewed it on my dodgy laptop screen I don't know if it captures the problem!).

There's a bit of flickering and, in parts (but sometimes totally, where the screen should be white it's a dithered pink. I did try to google a diagnosis but the flickering put me off. Oh the irony.

Any ideas? GPU, screen or something else?

EDIT: pic removed due to crappiness.

 

[Zeppu]

Macbook. Connected to AirPort, settings are all okay, IP is there and correct as are subnet and DNS. Ping works but I cannot access websites. MacBook Pro and PC connected to same network work fine.

Suggestions?

Tried removing and re-adding AirPort, restart etc..

 

[Corran Horn]

I just moved so I took my pc in the car with me and prevented as much movement possible. But when I start it turns off after a few minutes. Starting up the pc after sometimes gives me 8 beeps and also I noticed the cpu meter widget i have shows its running really high. The red led light saying proc hot is on.


So...my processor is running hot...but what would have caused that from the move? All cables are in tact and the fans are working, including the cpu and graphic card fans. What should be my next step?

Also running bios my hardware monitoring says:
Processor thermal margin: 0c
Internal temp: 36c
Remote temp: 30c

 

[Mangoverboard]

Ok GAF, bit of tech help needed here.

So I bought a Sont Vaio VPCF13MOE about 2 weeks ago now. I love it and it has been working perfectly.... until now.

I was using it away and then went downstairs to get dinner. A cousin was over so I was away from it for about 2 hours, I left it on. When I come back up my left click will not work. Can't click using the touchpad either. Right click is working fine. Tried rebooting (3 times) to no avail. Checed up online that it might be a problem with drivers but I can't get into the drivers without a left click. I have no external mice to plug in and try with them.

I'm posting from my really crappy old laptop. Note that the touchpad works fine for moving the pointer around, but I just cannot left click at all. Any suggestions?

 

[CrayzeeCarl]

Ok GAF, bit of tech help needed here.

So I bought a Sont Vaio VPCF13MOE about 2 weeks ago now. I love it and it has been working perfectly.... until now.

I was using it away and then went downstairs to get dinner. A cousin was over so I was away from it for about 2 hours, I left it on. When I come back up my left click will not work. Can't click using the touchpad either. Right click is working fine. Tried rebooting (3 times) to no avail. Checed up online that it might be a problem with drivers but I can't get into the drivers without a left click. I have no external mice to plug in and try with them.

I'm posting from my really crappy old laptop. Note that the touchpad works fine for moving the pointer around, but I just cannot left click at all. Any suggestions?

I'm pretty sure you can do just about anything in the Windows OS with just a keyboard.

Press Windows Key + Pause.
Then press the Right arrow key twice.
Then Tab once.
Then Space.
This will bring up Device Manager.
Then press Tab, then use the arrow keys to navigate to "Human Interface Devices".
Press the Right arrow key.
Then use the arrow keys to navigate to the touchpad device.
Then press Enter.
Then press Shift+Tab.
Then press Right arrow.
Then Tab twice.
Then Space to update the drivers.

If that doesn't work, you may have to download updated ones. That could be a bit trickier but may still be doable.

 

[Mangoverboard]

Great thanks! Its late here so I'll give it a go in the morning, hopefully will work!

 

[EL Beefo]

I'm having some color problems with my laptop, every time I start it/wake it up the color settings default to 16bit and I have to manually go into display settings to change it back. Any idea whats causing this, and is there a place I'm missing that changes the default?

 

[faceless007]

I'm preparing to move from XP to 7x64. When installing XP I needed to pre-install an Intel ACHI driver for the hard drive (later I just slipstreamed it in with nLite). Do I need to do the same thing for 7?

 

[Macho Madness]

I'm preparing to move from XP to 7x64. When installing XP I needed to pre-install an Intel ACHI driver for the hard drive (later I just slipstreamed it in with nLite). Do I need to do the same thing for 7?

Probably not. Most device drivers are now found in Windows Update.

 

[Scythesurge]

I think I'm having CPU overheating issues and I'm not sure what to do about or why it's happening. Basically, I was playing Borderlands and the game would crash about once a night. Then last night after crashing, I restarted and the system wouldn't boot past the first screen, I couldn't even get into BIOS. After some time, I was able to boot into Windows 7, but then the system restarted once I tried to load an area in Borderlands. After a couple of times, the system was not able to boot into Windows, and eventually it wouldn't output anything to the monitor and I left it for the morning.

This morning I turned it on and it booted into Win7 without any problems, kept it running for a couple of hours. Then I tried to reboot and it hung up in the same spot as the first time. So I tried to open it up and see if the fans were blocked, and they weren't, and I made sure all the fans and the heatsink are running, which they are. I booted into BIOS and the temperature of the CPU started at 44 and climbed its way up to 80C after a few minutes of just sitting there. For some reason my CPU is clearly not being cooled, but I'm not sure why as the heatsink seems to be running fine. This is what my heatsink/CPU look like:

I have an i7-930, built it in May 2010, if anyone could help me out at all I'd really appreciate it.

 

[Schrade]

I think I'm having CPU overheating issues and I'm not sure what to do about or why it's happening. Basically, I was playing Borderlands and the game would crash about once a night. Then last night after crashing, I restarted and the system wouldn't boot past the first screen, I couldn't even get into BIOS. After some time, I was able to boot into Windows 7, but then the system restarted once I tried to load an area in Borderlands. After a couple of times, the system was not able to boot into Windows, and eventually it wouldn't output anything to the monitor and I left it for the morning.

This morning I turned it on and it booted into Win7 without any problems, kept it running for a couple of hours. Then I tried to reboot and it hung up in the same spot as the first time. So I tried to open it up and see if the fans were blocked, and they weren't, and I made sure all the fans and the heatsink are running, which they are. I booted into BIOS and the temperature of the CPU started at 44 and climbed its way up to 80C after a few minutes of just sitting there. For some reason my CPU is clearly not being cooled, but I'm not sure why as the heatsink seems to be running fine. This is what my heatsink/CPU look like:
http://imgur.com/xtoMr.jpg

I have an i7-930, built it in May 2010, if anyone could help me out at all I'd really appreciate it.

In that picture it looks like you have two separate applications of thermal paste.

Clean it all off of the CPU and the heatsink (use alcohol to get it all off) then get some new thermal paste, apply it to the CPU so that CPU has a thin, even layer over its entire surface except for maybe leave about a millimeter of blank space toward the edges of the die (to allow for oozing).

Then, snap your heatsink in place over it.

It looks like you have two different kinds of paste on there, a white and grey one. Don't mix them!