Scythesurge
Member
With the i7 930, the heatsink already had thermal paste applied to it, so I didn't touch that.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small
- Thread starter Hawkian
- Start date
Schrade said:
Spot on. You've got a mixture of ceramic (white) and metallic (silver) TIMs there. Ceramic pastes are definitely not for CPU usage, you need a metallic paste like Arctic Silver.
Only thing I can add to this is use 93% or higher isopropyl alcohol with Q-Tips and cotton balls to clean the sink and CPU. Follow strict usage directions of the paste you end up using. Remember, you only are looking to have TIM over the die itself, so you don't need a shitload of it. Usually a small bead the size of a grain of rice is sufficient. Make sure you don't touch either of the surfaces after cleaning them though, even the slightest bit of oil from your fingers can create a pocket.
Usually takes 100 or so hours for the TIM to ultimately cure.
Anyone familiar with Wordpress could save me the last of my hair by helping me out here. I maintain a list of hack and slash ARPG's on my blog. I added two today, and embedded videos for each one. Neither of the videos show, and instead I get a replication of my facebook "like" button and a replication of my google ad block, neither of which should be anywhere near that spot. I added four other titles to the list, no problems at all with those entries. The post editor shows the correct embed links from youtube.
Would greatly appreciate any help.
EDIT: Problem occurs with the titles "Magicka" and "Lottie's Dungeon"
EDIT: Fixed! Was a problem with the new iframe embed links on youtube.
Would greatly appreciate any help.
EDIT: Problem occurs with the titles "Magicka" and "Lottie's Dungeon"
EDIT: Fixed! Was a problem with the new iframe embed links on youtube.
Lionel Mandrake
Member
Alright, I'm trying to format a file in html...
Edit: I just went ahead and wrapped each paragraph paragraph personally. Took about an hour of straight copy/pasting, but it worked.
Edit: I just went ahead and wrapped each paragraph paragraph personally. Took about an hour of straight copy/pasting, but it worked.
Splash Wave
Member
I just did a format of my Asus netbook to put a fresh install of Windows 7 Home Premium, and to get rid of the garbage that it came with. Upgrading from Starter to Premium seems to have cut my battery life down by about 3 or 4 hours, which concerns me. Are there any tweaks I can make to get the time back? It isn't a big deal, but it doesn't seem like a change of OS should make that big of a difference.
Great King Bowser
Property of Kaz Harai
Samsung NC10 running Windows 7 Home Premium
Keeps BSODing on me. Usually if I'm doing something involving multimedia e.g. listening to music or watching a video.
It's given me different error messages before, but that was the last one.
Keeps BSODing on me. Usually if I'm doing something involving multimedia e.g. listening to music or watching a video.
It's given me different error messages before, but that was the last one.
Robobandit
Member
Sebulon3k said:
What happens if you make the LG primary and choose extend desktops?
It makes sense that you got an "Out of Range" message when your primary was the westinghouse.. you can only extend desktops at a resolution equal to or less than the resolution of the primary display from my experience, thus your LG would have been limited to 1680x1050 instead of it's native 1920x1080.
Ideally you should be using digital cables anyway..
If you're in the US, you can get an excellent DVI cable from MonoPrice.com for $3
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2407&seq=1&format=2
Can someone tell me if this is a "micro-ATX" case or just a small regular ATX? I'm trying to order replacement parts (PSU) for a friend and I don't know if I can order a normal ATX power supply or if I have to get a micro-ATX one:
http://www.gateway.com/systems/product/529668665.php
Dimensions (System) 16.23" (H) x 7.09" (W) x 16.27" (D) or 412.24mm (H) x 180mm (W) x 413.2mm (D)
Here are some more pictures: http://www.ascendtech.us/itemdesc.asp?ic=PCGWDX484003EW7
http://www.gateway.com/systems/product/529668665.php
Dimensions (System) 16.23" (H) x 7.09" (W) x 16.27" (D) or 412.24mm (H) x 180mm (W) x 413.2mm (D)
Here are some more pictures: http://www.ascendtech.us/itemdesc.asp?ic=PCGWDX484003EW7
ChoklitReign
Member
My laptop has been plugged in for like 4 days now and the battery hasn't been charging. It's a Dell XPS M1530 and the battery is at 47% capacity (it lasts for 3-4 hours currently). It's 2 and a half years old now but the battery is more recent. Should I be concerned about its health and back up all my important data? I think I had this problem before and just ordered a new battery so maybe I don't have to worry about the HDD. Another concern is that I'm buying a desktop next month and I don't want to buy a new battery for a computer I won't be using much anymore. Should I restart a couple of times and buy a new battery if it isn't fixed?
microATXKorey said:
Rarely any normal consumer computers use ATX boards now because they're more expensive.
ChoklitReign said:
Backup your data frequently.
As for your battery, I suppose I would buy a new battery although I would first check if your computer has the latest BIOS.
Hmmm...dammit. Is the power supply/case MicroATX too? He has a similar older computer that's about the same size and I was able to swap his old power supply with a regular ATX one. I don't have access to his new computer right now but going to have him measure to see if the screws match.claviertekky said:
Judging from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX#Physical_Characteristics and your given dimensions, a regular ATX power supply will fit.Korey said:
I have a mATX build as my desktop is my gaming machine, and it works just fine. I made sure it take standard ATX power supplies.
ChoklitReign
Member
God damn Dell. I can't download the newest BIOS because it requires me to download a DOWNLOAD DEVICE which can't find the BIOS exe because I CAN'T DOWNLOAD IT. Plus I can't find the AC outlet for my external HDD. Fucking great.
It might be a tight squeeze to get the old power supply out though. Just a warning.Korey said:
If you're having trouble, disconnect the cables (for drives) and remove the DVD/CD/Hard drives first, then remove the power supply.
You could unmount the motherboard but I think that will be more of a hassle.
ChoklitReign
Member
The browser download option is gone one you download the other thing. Forget the BIOS, I need to know where to find a replacement AC outlet for my hard drive (an Iomega Prestige 500GB HDD, it requires both a power supply and a USB cord). Do most HDDs use the same kind of power outlet? It kind of looks like a 3.5mm headphone adapter.claviertekky said:
Does your external use a built-in power supply or does it use a brick?ChoklitReign said:
For reference, my PATA external use a brick-plug adapter and outputs 18Watts over 1.5 Amps from 12 volts.
------------------
edit: Reading from Amazon reviews, you can just pull 12V from a desktop power supply so I guess, take your hard drive down and head down to Radioshack.
Get one of these: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3807944
Also get the Adaptaplug that fits into your hard drive. Ask a guy to help you to find the right adapter head for your hard drive. That should do it although it's going to be expensive.
I have to say maybe it might be more cost effective to take out the hard drive and buy a new enclosure.
Does any of this make sense to you? I hope I guessed right about your power supply.
ChoklitReign
Member
Thank God I found the power supply! It was under a table and I have no idea how it got there lol. I don't know how to fix my battery but I can backup my data at last.
davidpdong
Member
Hi Tech Support GAF, this is more of a networking question but maybe someone can still help.
My ADSL modem is constantly losing sync. About once every 1.5hrs itll drop and then reconnect but this means I can game nor stream movies.
I've tried isolating it (disconnected my router and plugged straight into modem, ive tried different wall jacks, I even bought a new modem) and it doesn't SEEM to be any of my own equipment.
AT&T wont do shit, they keep telling me everything is fine and the tech they sent over said as much. As if I'm making this up.
Anyone cans h4lp?
My modems ive tried are a speedstream 4100 and an att brand westelle.
My ADSL modem is constantly losing sync. About once every 1.5hrs itll drop and then reconnect but this means I can game nor stream movies.
I've tried isolating it (disconnected my router and plugged straight into modem, ive tried different wall jacks, I even bought a new modem) and it doesn't SEEM to be any of my own equipment.
AT&T wont do shit, they keep telling me everything is fine and the tech they sent over said as much. As if I'm making this up.
Anyone cans h4lp?
My modems ive tried are a speedstream 4100 and an att brand westelle.
zazrx said:
God damn it, I thought I had fixed the issue but it just started doing it again today!!! Jesus Christ what does it take for the computer to tell me what is going on?! I'm thinking of doing a format and just starting fresh... It's just such a hassle to deal with all the backing up and getting drivers...
I know a lot about home networking stuff. I've had DSL for 7 years of my life from high school to post college, and I know a lot about cable and FiOS as well. Been through all the hassles and gripes about these sort of things.davidpdong said:
Let's start by pulling the stats page on the modem.
Tell me your Signal Noise Margins (SNR) and attenuation levels (both in dB), and I'll tell you what you can do from here.
If you're on the Speedstream 4100 modem, pull this page up (assuming you're not in bridge mode): http://192.168.0.1/statistics.htm
Report back with a screenshot or stats posted. What's your other modem?
zazrx said:
God damn it, I thought I had fixed the issue but it just started doing it again today!!! Jesus Christ what does it take for the computer to tell me what is going on?! I'm thinking of doing a format and just starting fresh... It's just such a hassle to deal with all the backing up and getting drivers...
I didn't think it was a graphics card problem to begin.
I thought it might be hard drive or motherboard related, so your computer freezes after a full boot?
Grab a copy of speedfan: http://www.almico.com/speedfan442.exe
Run the program as administrator.
Go to the S.M.A.R.T. tab. Select your hard drive and press "Perform an in-depth online analysis of this hard disk." It'll take you to a website.
There's a link you need to copy and paste from the text on that website: "The link to get back and see a new report about this hard disk in the future is this. Consider that new hard disks and new checks are added over time." Copy the hyperlink linked from the bolded "this." The hyperlink includes ReportCode and ReportVerification numbers.
Reply with the hyperlink here or just screenshot the page. I prefer the hyperlink.
zazrx said:
The computer will run better all around after a fresh install. May I suggest either partitioning your drive or getting a secondary? That way you can put all of your needed stuff there and be ready to go as soon the o/s is reloaded. I have a dedicated folder for all of my drivers and downloaded programs.
Also, if your computer boots, does it work fine after? Does it shutdown ok?
Trent Strong
Banned
I have a few videos that are 1440 by 1080. When I play these videos on my desktop PC with Windows Media Player, it stretches them to fit my 16:9 720p screen, but when I play them on my laptop, which is also a 720p screen, it will only play them in 4:3. I want to play them in 16:9 on the laptop too. Does anyone know how I can get them to stretch to fit the screen on the laptop? Both the desktop and the laptop have windows 7.
Use VLC.Trent Strong said:
Doesn't mess with the OS although do note the file associations during installation. Compiled for the big three operating systems out there. Has a lot of nice features. No need to download codec packs as everything is built-in.
You can change how the picture is zoomed.
Trent Strong
Banned
claviertekky said:
I'll try it. Thanks.
http://www.hddstatus.com/hdrepshowreport.php?ReportCode=4995669&ReportVerification=A1FBC432claviertekky said:
There it is. I just reformatted my computer last night and this morning I turn on my PC and it freezes on the windows logo... I wish I knew what is wrong so I can just go and buy a new part.
Thanks for the update. Your hard drive tests out great.zazrx said:
Test your RAM now. I had a similar problem that you're describing, and it ended up that I had two bad RAM sticks out of four I had installed.
To test your RAM, use the built-in Windows Memory Diagnostic utility. You can run this in three ways:
1. Can boot to desktop.
Click on the start button (Windows icon button) and type in: Windows Memory Diagnostic. Restart now and check for problems.
2. Can't boot Windows.
Load your Windows 7 installation DVD and instead of hitting install on the first screen to move your mouse, hit repair. Included is the same Windows Memory Diagnostic utility.
3. F8 before the "Starting Windows" Logo. Supposedly you can launch the memory diagnostic utility there as well as it is listed in your Safe Mode/Last Known Configuration menu.
I've only seen this once, but my memory is fuzzy here.
--------------------
Anyway, once testing begins, you can leave your computer now or if you have time you can stare at the progress bars until they finish.
1. If you stay:
There is a yellow text line that indicates the status of your memory. The system will run the test twice by default.
If through the entire test that "No Hardware Problems" text does not change, your RAM is fine.
If something is wrong with your memory, you will see it after one complete test run. The yellow text will change to "Hardware problems detected. Please consult a computer manufacturer for repair" or something like that.
2. If you don't stay:
Upon a successful bootup to desktop, Windows will tell you if your memory checks out ok from a small notification bar. From my experience, a balloon notification will say your RAM is OK. A straight-up application window will tell you your RAM is bad.
davidpdong
Member
So these are my stats.
SN Margin (dB) 13.5 -
Line Attenuation (dB) 45.5 -
look ok?
SN Margin (dB) 13.5 -
Line Attenuation (dB) 45.5 -
look ok?
I'll assume those are download syncs. Nothing for upload? Can you post a picture?davidpdong said:
If you don't know, the PrtScn button on your keyboard puts a snapshop of your current computer screen. Simply paste this screen into Paint (Ctrl V or Edit -> Paste) and upload that to a website like tinypic.com. If you have Windows Vista or 7, you can use the Snipping Tool application to assist you in that as well.
From that small quote it seem all right. You have an OK signal judging from the SNR at 13.5 dB as the modem needs 6 dB to hold a sync. I would really like a picture though.
Is your ADSL with a phone service or without phone service (dry-loop)? If you don't understand, do you have a landline in your house and make phone calls from there?
davidpdong
Member
claviertekky said:
Here is a pic:
its a dry loop (no phone service).
My roommate just set our PPP location on the modem instead of bridge mode in hopes this will fix the issue.
Also, thanks 100 million.
davidpdong said:Here is a pic:
its a dry loop (no phone service).
My roommate just set our PPP location on the modem instead of bridge mode in hopes this will fix the issue.
Also, thanks 100 million.
You're getting CRC errors which is not good as something's not clean on your line. I think having the PPP information on the modem actually would worsen your situation.
If you're still having trouble, the next time an AT&T tech comes over, tell him to cut off every jack from the NID (network interface device, grey box that hosts all the telephone wiring) in the house and choose ONE room to wire the modem directly. There might be some interference left over from the unused deteriorated copper wires.
I had a similar problem in college that somehow the SNR was fine, and I still got periodic disconnects even after using bridge mode. After the third visit from AT&T, I told them to cut off all the other jacks at the NID box and have the jack connected to the modem to be the only working telephone line in the house. My problems stopped.
Ran it, I stayed and the text didn't change, it was always No Hardware Problems detected. After it booted to Windows the balloon said No memory errors detected. So I'm guessing the RAM is ok.claviertekky said:Thanks for the update. Your hard drive tests out great.
Test your RAM now. I had a similar problem that you're describing, and it ended up that I had two bad RAM sticks out of four I had installed.
To test your RAM, use the built-in Windows Memory Diagnostic utility. You can run this in three ways:
1. Can boot to desktop.
Click on the start button (Windows icon button) and type in: Windows Memory Diagnostic. Restart now and check for problems.
2. Can't boot Windows.
Load your Windows 7 installation DVD and instead of hitting install on the first screen to move your mouse, hit repair. Included is the same Windows Memory Diagnostic utility.
3. F8 before the "Starting Windows" Logo. Supposedly you can launch the memory diagnostic utility there as well as it is listed in your Safe Mode/Last Known Configuration menu.
I've only seen this once, but my memory is fuzzy here.
--------------------
Anyway, once testing begins, you can leave your computer now or if you have time you can stare at the progress bars until they finish.
1. If you stay:
There is a yellow text line that indicates the status of your memory. The system will run the test twice by default.
If through the entire test that "No Hardware Problems" text does not change, your RAM is fine.
If something is wrong with your memory, you will see it after one complete test run. The yellow text will change to "Hardware problems detected. Please consult a computer manufacturer for repair" or something like that.
2. If you don't stay:
Upon a successful bootup to desktop, Windows will tell you if your memory checks out ok from a small notification bar. From my experience, a balloon notification will say your RAM is OK. A straight-up application window will tell you your RAM is bad.
Ok now this is a curveball at me. :lolzazrx said:
Thanks for the update.
It's not the hard drive. It's not the RAM. I suppose we have three factors left to consider:
1. Drivers
2. Power Supply
3. Motherboard (+ Overclocking)
It'll help if you listed out the specs of your machine with the manufacturer + model.
So this only happens on startup correct? Never during playing a game or editing a movie?
--------------------------------
DRIVERS
--------------------------------
Since you just did a fresh install:
Where did you get these? Also do you have any securtiy software (i.e. antivirus) installed? Did you remember to install the chipset driver?
--------------------------------
POWER SUPPLY
--------------------------------
Do you know if you have a friend who has an extra power supply sitting around you can borrow for a month?
--------------------------------
MOTHERBOARD (+ OVERCLOCKING)
--------------------------------
Do you overclock?
claviertekky said:
My computer's specs are:
RAM: 6GB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227366
Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128366
Processor: i7 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115202
PSU: 850W http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182072
Video card: GTX260 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130400
My computer only freezes during boot up. Sometimes it happens during the black screens/windows logos while other times it happens after the computer gets to the desktop and its loading everything like live messenger and Avast. I haven't had it freeze during any other time.
By the way, thanks a lot for your help so far claviertekky!
All right you're doing it right. The X58 chipset has all the drivers from Windows 7 directly although it won't hurt to run the Intel INF program to check the chipset is installed correctly: http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Driver/mb_driver_chipset_intel.exezazrx said:
Run that and tell me how that goes.
-------------------------------------
Question: What USB devices are plugged in your computer when you startup? Do you have any external hard drives, mouse, keyboards, usb hubs, usb-powered card readers or mp3 players?
Back when I had Windows XP and in the transition to Windows Vista, I had a problem with a USB Hub and a PS/2 to USB connector that would freeze at the Windows boot. They all worked fine before, but it surprised me that a USB device would stop my computer from booting properly when it booted up fine for months.
----------------------------------------------------
I'm going to see if there are any BIOS updates for your board regarding USB.
here's the main update page while we are at it: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=2959#ov
update: there are, and the latest one is F12i.
It's BETA, but supposedly safe as GIGABYTE claims it is.
the change log says:
There are no instructions from GIGABYTE, so I'll provide them to you what I think they are.
0. CLOSE ALL PROGRAMS AFTER THE DOWNLOAD.
1. Download this: http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/BIOS/motherboard_bios_ga-ex58-ds4_f12i.exe
2. Open it and extract it to a folder on your desktop or somewhere on your C: drive.
3. Right click autoexec.bat and "Run as Administrator."
4. Cross your fingers wait.
5. Windows will reboot with the new BIOS.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I guess it's up to you what you want to do. At least report back to me on what USB devices are connected to your computer and run the INF installation tool.
If you're feeling lucky, go ahead and do a BIOS update.