Support NeoGAF

[davidpdong]

OK, Ima call the tech and ask her to do that for me.

So you're saying I should set my modem back into bridge mode and my router on PPPoE?

(also, nominate Tekky for Dr. Who of GAF)

 

[LogicStep]

All right you're doing it right. The X58 chipset has all the drivers from Windows 7 directly although it won't hurt to run the Intel INF program to check the chipset is installed correctly: http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Driver/mb_driver_chipset_intel.exe

Run that and tell me how that goes.
Ran it, it installed, didn't seem like any problems happened.

-------------------------------------

Question: What USB devices are plugged in your computer when you startup? Do you have any external hard drives, mouse, keyboards, usb hubs, usb-powered card readers or mp3 players?

Back when I had Windows XP and in the transition to Windows Vista, I had a problem with a USB Hub and a PS/2 to USB connector that would freeze at the Windows boot. They all worked fine before, but it surprised me that a USB device would stop my computer from booting properly when it booted up fine for months.
I have a couple actually. Keyboard, mouse, camera, and an ipod cable (though no ipod is connected).

----------------------------------------------------

I'm going to see if there are any BIOS updates for your board regarding USB.

here's the main update page while we are at it: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=2959#ov

update: there are, and the latest one is F12i.

It's BETA, but supposedly safe as GIGABYTE claims it is.

the change log says:



There are no instructions from GIGABYTE, so I'll provide them to you what I think they are.

0. CLOSE ALL PROGRAMS AFTER THE DOWNLOAD.
1. Download this: http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/BIOS/motherboard_bios_ga-ex58-ds4_f12i.exe
2. Open it and extract it to a folder on your desktop or somewhere on your C: drive.
3. Right click autoexec.bat and "Run as Administrator."
4. Cross your fingers wait.
5. Windows will reboot with the new BIOS.
I did as you said but nothing happened. I saw a command window pop up for like half a second but after that nothing.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I guess it's up to you what you want to do. At least report back to me on what USB devices are connected to your computer and run the INF installation tool.

If you're feeling lucky, go ahead and do a BIOS update.

Also, earlier I left my computer on doing nothing and it went into sleep mode or something. When I came back to it, it woke up but if froze right there so I had to do a hard reset.

(also, nominate Tekky for Dr. Who of GAF)

Yes I agree. =D

 

[clav]

OK, Ima call the tech and ask her to do that for me.

So you're saying I should set my modem back into bridge mode and my router on PPPoE?

(also, nominate Tekky for Dr. Who of GAF)

Mm. The phone level 1 techs never understand anything. They're there to read and perform by script.

If you want a more effective way of getting help although it's similar to posting on a forum, register an account at DSLReports.com (aka broadbandreports.com). They have company direct forums that customer service reps will respond to you better. I don't know if you're interested.

Either case, you're going to have be adamant telling AT&T you have a problem and that you need a tech. Once you get a tech appointment setup'ed, then you tell the tech what to do when he arrives at your house.

Also, earlier I left my computer on doing nothing and it went into sleep mode or something. When I came back to it, it woke up but if froze right there so I had to do a hard reset.


Yes I agree. =D

1. So you ran the Setup file for the INF, correct? The file itself is an extractor like the BIOS download.

2. Just wondering are the keyboard/mouse cables bad in any way?

3. I just ran the flashspi.exe itself and apparently stupid GIGABYTE packaged the flash installer with the DOS version.

Working on a solution for BIOS update. I remember updating a friend's GIGABYTE board and there was a built-in utility called Q-Flash.

You had to put the BIOS file (in this case EX58DS4.12I) onto a FAT(32) formatted flash disk at the root (i.e. E. Then you go to the BIOS to run the flashing utility with the USB drive plugged in.

Hm, so it sounds like you have a sleep/resume problem which one of the earlier BIOS updates addressed.

------------------------------

There are two ways to update the BIOS as I saw this in your features list:

Support for @BIOS
Support for Q-Flash
Support for Dual BIOS
Support for Download Center
Support for Xpress Install
Support for Xpress Recovery2
Support for EasyTune (Note 4)
Support for Dynamic Energy Saver Advanced
Support for Time Repair
Support for Q-Share

You could do it the Q-Flash way that I described earlier. (I think you hit the END key on the GIGABYTE screen or you can access it via the BIOS setup) or you can use the automated @BIOS utility.

http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/121/tech_a_bios.htm

 

[LogicStep]

1. So you ran the Setup file for the INF, correct? The file itself is an extractor like the BIOS download.

2. Just wondering are the keyboard/mouse cables bad in any way?

3. I just ran the flashspi.exe itself and apparently stupid GIGABYTE packaged the flash installer with the DOS version.

Working on a solution for BIOS update. I remember updating a friend's GIGABYTE board and there was a built-in utility called Q-Flash.

You had to put the BIOS file (in this case EX58DS4.12I) onto a FAT(32) formatted flash disk at the root (i.e. E. Then you go to the BIOS to run the flashing utility with the USB drive plugged in.

Hm, so it sounds like you have a sleep/resume problem which one of the earlier BIOS updates addressed.

The wires are good.

I'm going to try and do what you described here. BRB

 

[clav]

The wires are good.

I'm going to try and do what you described here. BRB

All right. When it's all said and done, be sure to "Load Optimized Defaults."

----------------

If somehow you're on another computer reading this message after the flash and can't boot, check to see what SATA mode your drives are in. Are they in Compatible (IDE) mode or AHCI mode? I hope you know.

 

[LogicStep]

I'm trying to do it but when I go to the Q-Flash thing and hit Update BIOS from drive it says "No drive found" so I don't know what to do.

Looking at what you mentioned:
SATA RAID/AHCI Mode : Disabled
Onboard SATA/IDE Device : Enabled
Onboard SATA/IDE Ctrl Mode : IDE

 

[clav]

I'm trying to do it but when I go to the Q-Flash thing and hit Update BIOS from drive it says "No drive found" so I don't know what to do.

What's the USB Key drive formatted in? If it's FAT32 , try FAT. If that still doesn't work, try different USB ports and use the ones in the back.

You have this file, EX58DS4.12I, on there right?

If this doesn't work out for you, then use the @BIOS utility I mentioned earlier. I remember I had a lot of trouble getting it to work the way I told you initially (which is probably why I remembered how it was done.)

http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/121/tech_a_bios.htm

SATA RAID/AHCI Mode : Disabled
Onboard SATA/IDE Device : Enabled
Onboard SATA/IDE Ctrl Mode : IDE

Ok. IDE it is. Usually that's what all mobos default to. Remember that.

Do not turn on AHCI unless you plan to reinstall Windows 7 from scratch.*

* Actually there is a fix, but please don't play with that right now.

 

[LogicStep]

Ok, the @BIOS was a painless procedure. I successfully updated my BIOS. Don't know if the problem is gone though, I guess we will find out sooner or later.

I just did a reformat, is running AHCI better than IDE?

 

[clav]

Ok, the @BIOS was a painless procedure. I successfully updated my BIOS. Don't know if the problem is gone though, I guess we will find out sooner or later.

I just did a reformat, is running AHCI better than IDE?

AHCI allows the ability to hot swap your SATA drives. To explain, basically you can plug the power connectors and SATA drives out of the system without shutting it off.

For SSDs, I think (I don't own a SSD) some features like TRIM require AHCI to be enabled.

I hope someone can correct me here.

If you're fine how it is setuped now, then don't bother. If you're going to upgrade to a SSD anyway, you would want to fresh install then and even for some computers having AHCI enabled might not let Windows complete the installation.

 

[LogicStep]

AHCI allows the ability to hot swap your SATA drives. To explain, basically you can plug the power connectors and SATA drives out of the system without shutting it off.

For SSDs, I think (I don't own a SSD) some features like TRIM require AHCI to be enabled.

I hope someone can correct me here.

Ah, ok I won't bother with that for a long time then.

Thanks for all the help clavier, I'll post an update if the freezing persists.

 

[clav]

Ah, ok I won't bother with that for a long time then.

Thanks for all the help clavier, I'll post an update if the freezing persists.

You could test this out right now by putting your computer to sleep.

Then wake it up.

 

[LogicStep]

You could test this out right now by putting your computer to sleep.

Then wake it up.

Well I just did and it's working. Hopefully this isn't as random as the boot up freezes.

 

[clav]

Well I just did and it's working. Hopefully this isn't as random as the boot up freezes.

Awesome. Hope it stays that way.

 

[DJ_Tet]

My PC has been running at what seems to be 1/1000 speed or so. Beyond crippling slow, ever since my power went out (I know should have had a UPC etc.)

The computer will boot, and eventually it will run. I've tried to reinstall the OS (overnight, gets about 5% or so.) I've tried taking the RAM out and using just one module at a time, there was no difference. The RAM seems to all work.

What is wrong with my PC? Is it beyond fucked?

 

[clav]

My PC has been running at what seems to be 1/1000 speed or so. Beyond crippling slow, ever since my power went out (I know should have had a UPC etc.)

The computer will boot, and eventually it will run. I've tried to reinstall the OS (overnight, gets about 5% or so.) I've tried taking the RAM out and using just one module at a time, there was no difference. The RAM seems to all work.

What is wrong with my PC? Is it beyond fucked?

I'm going to wildly guess your hard drive is dead.

Have you tried a different hard drive?

How old is the computer btw and what is it?

 

[faceless007]

Is System Restore on Windows 7 supposed to work?

Setting up a week-old Win 7 x64 install, installing all games and everything, somewhere along the way I did something wrong and Windows wouldn't boot. It went into some Safe Diagnostic mode , I told it to restore from a System Restore point (but oddly it wouldn't let me pick which one), it tried and said it failed. Awesome. But then I tried to boot normally and it worked.

Then I realized that it looked like certain things I'd done recently had been reverted but others hadn't in a way that makes no fucking sense. I loaded Firefox and the Download history showed files I had downloaded recently, but some of the files themselves were gone. I had applied a bunch of no-cd cracks, but now some of them are partially reversed (the original .exe is still there, as is the backup copy). In one case, there was a program I had unzipped (consisting of 4 files), and then moved its folder to another folder. I now find that folder exists in both locations, 2 of its files in one place and 2 in the other. WTF? Now I have to try to remember every fucking thing I did today and see if it actually kept in every possible way, I can't just assume if one file is there the rest of the program's files are.

 

[clav]

Haha. One of the first things I do when I install Windows is turn System Restore off. I don't use it, and I like fixing things by myself rather than let a machine automate it.

It's supposed to work as I've seen cases that it can rollback Windows OS updates. It's not however to be used to roll back a virus/spyware infection. That would actually worsen the situation.

If you want to backup your OS hard drive, use the "Backup and Restore" program and create a system image periodically on a hard drive.

Or, if you have an old computer lying around, install Windows Home Server and have it backup your OS hard drive daily.

 

[Servbot #42]

So i have been having some problems with my barely used dvd writer LG GH22NP20, it's not reading DVD discs. Whenever a DVD is inserted Windows doesn't acknowledge it at all, CDs work fine it's just DVD discs that give me problems. The weird part is that sometimes DVD do work and they work pretty much flawlessly.
Any suggestions on how to fix it? I read that the dvd laser may be dirty and that a good cleaning may fix the problem tough i dunno since i have never done that before.

 

[clav]

So i have been having some problems with my barely used dvd writer LG GH22NP20, it's not reading DVD discs. Whenever a DVD is inserted Windows doesn't acknowledge it at all, CDs work fine it's just DVD discs that give me problems. The weird part is that sometimes DVD do work and they work pretty much flawlessly.
Any suggestions on how to fix it? I read that the dvd laser may be dirty and that a good cleaning may fix the problem tough i dunno since i have never done that before.

You're right that the problem is related to the DVD laser.

If you're comfortable taking apart your DVD drive, you can easily access the laser and use some rubbing alcohol + cotton swab to gently clean the laser. If that doesn't work, then you'll need a multimeter and a small screw driver to do some POTS calibration.

Also look for a firmware update for your drive.

If you don't feel like doing any of this, then buy a new DVD drive. They don't cost much these days as I've consistently seen a $17 price tag on weekly Newegg deals.

On a side note, I've gone through 3 DVD drives on my laptop and a couple on my desktop.

 

[DJ_Tet]

I'm going to wildly guess your hard drive is dead.

Have you tried a different hard drive?

How old is the computer btw and what is it?

I thought I did but perhaps I didn't.

I'll give it a shot. It's a PC that is about 2-3 years old, quad core AMD. Nothing that has ever run that slowly.

 

[LogicStep]

Awesome. Hope it stays that way.

Well I just booted up and when I hit the desktop it froze =\...

 

[clav]

Well I just booted up and when I hit the desktop it froze =\...

:O

Well, I'm exhausted. I haven't used Avast for years since Avira and then MSE were released. Maybe your problem is software related?

I guess post a hi-jack this log, and I'll see if there's anything weird.

http://www.trendmicro.com/ftp/products/hijackthis/HijackThis.exe

 

[LogicStep]

:O

Well, I'm exhausted. I haven't used Avast for years since Avira and then MSE were released. Maybe your problem is software related?

I guess post a hi-jack this log, and I'll see if there's anything weird.

http://www.trendmicro.com/ftp/products/hijackthis/HijackThis.exe

Here is the log:

Logfile of Trend Micro HijackThis v2.0.4
Scan saved at 8:58:20 PM, on 1/31/2011
Platform: Windows 7 (WinNT 6.00.3504)
MSIE: Internet Explorer v8.00 (8.00.7600.16700)
Boot mode: Normal

Running processes:
C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows Live\Messenger\msnmsgr.exe
D:\Steam\Steam.exe
C:\Users\Alan\AppData\Roaming\Dropbox\bin\Dropbox.exe
C:\Program Files\Alwil Software\Avast5\AvastUI.exe
C:\Program Files (x86)\iTunes\iTunesHelper.exe
C:\Program Files (x86)\Mozilla Firefox\firefox.exe
C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows Live\Contacts\wlcomm.exe
C:\Program Files (x86)\Mozilla Firefox\plugin-container.exe
C:\Users\Alan\Downloads\HijackThis.exe

R1 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Search Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R0 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Start Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=69157
R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Default_Page_URL = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=69157
R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Default_Search_URL = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Search Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Start Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=69157
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Search,SearchAssistant =
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Search,CustomizeSearch =
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Local Page = C:\Windows\SysWOW64\blank.htm
R1 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Internet Settings,ProxyOverride = *.local
R0 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Toolbar,LinksFolderName =
F2 - REG:system.ini: UserInit=userinit.exe
O2 - BHO: Groove GFS Browser Helper - {72853161-30C5-4D22-B7F9-0BBC1D38A37E} - C:\Program Files (x86)\Microsoft Office\Office12\GrooveShellExtensions.dll
O2 - BHO: Windows Live ID Sign-in Helper - {9030D464-4C02-4ABF-8ECC-5164760863C6} - C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Windows Live\WindowsLiveLogin.dll
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [avast5] "C:\Program Files\Alwil Software\Avast5\avastUI.exe" /nogui
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [QuickTime Task] "C:\Program Files (x86)\QuickTime\QTTask.exe" -atboottime
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [iTunesHelper] "C:\Program Files (x86)\iTunes\iTunesHelper.exe"
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [GrooveMonitor] "C:\Program Files (x86)\Microsoft Office\Office12\GrooveMonitor.exe"
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [msnmsgr] "C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows Live\Messenger\msnmsgr.exe" /background
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [Steam] "D:\Steam\Steam.exe" -silent
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-19\..\Run: [Sidebar] %ProgramFiles%\Windows Sidebar\Sidebar.exe /autoRun (User 'LOCAL SERVICE')
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-19\..\RunOnce: [mctadmin] C:\Windows\System32\mctadmin.exe (User 'LOCAL SERVICE')
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-20\..\Run: [Sidebar] %ProgramFiles%\Windows Sidebar\Sidebar.exe /autoRun (User 'NETWORK SERVICE')
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-20\..\RunOnce: [mctadmin] C:\Windows\System32\mctadmin.exe (User 'NETWORK SERVICE')
O4 - Startup: Dropbox.lnk = Alan\AppData\Roaming\Dropbox\bin\Dropbox.exe
O8 - Extra context menu item: E&xport to Microsoft Excel - res://C:\PROGRA~2\MICROS~2\Office12\EXCEL.EXE/3000
O9 - Extra button: Send to OneNote - {2670000A-7350-4f3c-8081-5663EE0C6C49} - C:\PROGRA~2\MICROS~2\Office12\ONBttnIE.dll
O9 - Extra 'Tools' menuitem: S&end to OneNote - {2670000A-7350-4f3c-8081-5663EE0C6C49} - C:\PROGRA~2\MICROS~2\Office12\ONBttnIE.dll
O9 - Extra button: Research - {92780B25-18CC-41C8-B9BE-3C9C571A8263} - C:\PROGRA~2\MICROS~2\Office12\REFIEBAR.DLL
O10 - Unknown file in Winsock LSP: c:\program files (x86)\common files\microsoft shared\windows live\wlidnsp.dll
O10 - Unknown file in Winsock LSP: c:\program files (x86)\common files\microsoft shared\windows live\wlidnsp.dll
O18 - Protocol: grooveLocalGWS - {88FED34C-F0CA-4636-A375-3CB6248B04CD} - C:\Program Files (x86)\Microsoft Office\Office12\GrooveSystemServices.dll
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\Alg.exe,-112 (ALG) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\alg.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: Apple Mobile Device - Apple Inc. - C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Apple\Mobile Device Support\AppleMobileDeviceService.exe
O23 - Service: avast! Antivirus - AVAST Software - C:\Program Files\Alwil Software\Avast5\AvastSvc.exe
O23 - Service: Bonjour Service - Apple Inc. - C:\Program Files (x86)\Bonjour\mDNSResponder.exe
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\efssvc.dll,-100 (EFS) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\fxsresm.dll,-118 (Fax) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\fxssvc.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: iPod Service - Apple Inc. - C:\Program Files\iPod\bin\iPodService.exe
O23 - Service: @keyiso.dll,-100 (KeyIso) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @comres.dll,-2797 (MSDTC) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\msdtc.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\System32\netlogon.dll,-102 (Netlogon) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: NVIDIA Driver Helper Service (NVSvc) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\nvvsvc.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\psbase.dll,-300 (ProtectedStorage) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\Locator.exe,-2 (RpcLocator) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\locator.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\samsrv.dll,-1 (SamSs) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\snmptrap.exe,-3 (SNMPTRAP) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\snmptrap.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\spoolsv.exe,-1 (Spooler) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\spoolsv.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\sppsvc.exe,-101 (sppsvc) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\sppsvc.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: Steam Client Service - Valve Corporation - C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Steam\SteamService.exe
O23 - Service: NVIDIA Stereoscopic 3D Driver Service (Stereo Service) - NVIDIA Corporation - C:\Program Files (x86)\NVIDIA Corporation\3D Vision\nvSCPAPISvr.exe
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\ui0detect.exe,-101 (UI0Detect) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\UI0Detect.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\vaultsvc.dll,-1003 (VaultSvc) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\lsass.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\vds.exe,-100 (vds) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\System32\vds.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\vssvc.exe,-102 (VSS) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\vssvc.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%SystemRoot%\system32\Wat\WatUX.exe,-601 (WatAdminSvc) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\Wat\WatAdminSvc.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%systemroot%\system32\wbengine.exe,-104 (wbengine) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\wbengine.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%Systemroot%\system32\wbem\wmiapsrv.exe,-110 (wmiApSrv) - Unknown owner - C:\Windows\system32\wbem\WmiApSrv.exe (file missing)
O23 - Service: @%PROGRAMFILES%\Windows Media Player\wmpnetwk.exe,-101 (WMPNetworkSvc) - Unknown owner - C:\Program Files (x86)\Windows Media Player\wmpnetwk.exe (file missing)

--
End of file - 7472 bytes

 

[clav]

The only thing I can say is the time I had dropbox on my laptop before a reinstallation is that it froze the computer on boot up but resumed within 50 seconds. What I later found out was there was a bad sector on my hard drive that the disk still was unwillingly to mark bad and I think it was related to dropbox. I still don't use the dropbox client though, so I wouldn't know for sure although glancing at the changelog, it seems they fixed that issue.

With that in mind, let's see if your hard drive contains bad sectors:
http://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

Post a picture of the error scan.
----------------------

As for that, I'm pretty much out of ideas, and I'm sorry you're still having troubles. It's annoying me, too, as I've been thinking about it since you mentioned it. I guess people will be laughing and linking at this post since some people on here don't like me giving advice.

I suppose you can play around with a clean start-up as I mentioned Dropbox did cause boot up issues for me at the desktop.

After that, I guess try out another power supply or your motherboard is just bad.

I hope someone can help you out here.

 

[LogicStep]

The only thing I can say is the time I had dropbox on my laptop before a reinstallation is that it froze the computer on boot up but resumed within 50 seconds. What I later found out was there was a bad sector on my hard drive that the disk still was unwillingly to mark bad and I think it was related to dropbox. I still don't use the dropbox client though, so I wouldn't know for sure although glancing at the changelog, it seems they fixed that issue.

With that in mind, let's see if your hard drive contains bad sectors:
http://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

Post a picture of the error scan.
----------------------

As for that, I'm pretty much out of ideas, and I'm sorry you're still having troubles. It's annoying me, too, as I've been thinking about it since you mentioned it. I guess people will be laughing and linking at this post since some people on here don't like me giving advice.

I suppose you can play around with a clean start-up as I mentioned Dropbox did cause boot up issues for me at the desktop.

After that, I guess try out another power supply or your motherboard is just bad.

I hope someone can help you out here.

Alright man, I'm running it right now but it will take a while before it's done. I will post a picture when it's done. I really don't know what's wrong, this problem just started happening randomly out of nowhere. Oh wel... don't know how to deal with it. I guess I'll learn to live with it. Thanks for all the help man.

 

[clav]

Alright man, I'm running it right now but it will take a while before it's done. I will post a picture when it's done. I really don't know what's wrong, this problem just started happening randomly out of nowhere. Oh wel... don't know how to deal with it. I guess I'll learn to live with it. Thanks for all the help man.

Desktop freezing is not normal behavior.

That really shouldn't be happening, so when it occurs, you can't hit CTRL SHIFT ESC or CTRL ALT DEL?

Man, if you lived close, I would go over right now just to see what's going on as I would do for my friends.

 

[DJ_Tet]

Turns out I had tried both of my HDs, but both were in the machine (and I suppose potentially running when the power went out.) Bought a new HD off NewEgg, hopefully that will clear everything up. If not I'm hitting this thread hard lol.

 

[Choppasmith]

Okay I've got a weird little problem with my W7 PC.

I have a catch all "Download" folder that I set to "View by Modified" so I can easily access my latest downloads and recently modified files.

I copy a few files from my screen dead netbook via Wireless Network and now, whenever I open the folder, it takes a good 30 seconds to load (it'll show the files alphabetical before it loads the files by modified date)

Any way I can fix this little problem? It can't be space because I've got over 100 GB free left on the drive.

 

[LogicStep]

Can't post it right now but the test came out perfect. No bad sectors it was all green.

Maybe this has something to do with it. I was just watching some video on youtube and I hit my desk by mistake kind of hard that my PC shook some and the computer froze but the audio kept going like nothing...

 

[Splash Wave]

xpost from the stupid questions thread:

Is my external hard drive dying? Music (stored on the hard drive) wouldn't play through iTunes, and when I restarted my computer, my computer (mac) said my drive isn't readable. Unplugging the power from the hard drive fixed the problem, but should I start looking for a new one?

If so, what's a reliable brand?

 

[Ashhong]

Okay I've got a weird little problem with my W7 PC.

I have a catch all "Download" folder that I set to "View by Modified" so I can easily access my latest downloads and recently modified files.

I copy a few files from my screen dead netbook via Wireless Network and now, whenever I open the folder, it takes a good 30 seconds to load (it'll show the files alphabetical before it loads the files by modified date)

Any way I can fix this little problem? It can't be space because I've got over 100 GB free left on the drive.

Is the catch all rolder that you put it into an actual folder on your PC or is it the W7 "Libraries" folder?

 

[Choppasmith]

Is the catch all rolder that you put it into an actual folder on your PC or is it the W7 "Libraries" folder?

It's the actual Download folder, though I do have it set as one of the library folders.

 

[clav]

Turns out I had tried both of my HDs, but both were in the machine (and I suppose potentially running when the power went out.) Bought a new HD off NewEgg, hopefully that will clear everything up. If not I'm hitting this thread hard lol.

Oh you had two HDs?

I wanted to try a few other things before confirming it.

xpost from the stupid questions thread:

Is my external hard drive dying? Music (stored on the hard drive) wouldn't play through iTunes, and when I restarted my computer, my computer (mac) said my drive isn't readable. Unplugging the power from the hard drive fixed the problem, but should I start looking for a new one?

If so, what's a reliable brand?

Your enclosure that houses the USB board might be dying. I've seen those go first before the hard drive.

You should be keeping copies among multiple hard drives.

 

[Malleymal]

Hey guys maybe you can help me'


My comp will not load windows at all.... It's xp and out of nowhere it will do the whole boot up, but as soon as the window desktop is about to start the screen flashes blue and restarts ... So I try to go into safe mode and the same thing happens.. It goes to the blue screen and resets again .... Everything resets no matter what. It won't restore to anything either. Any advice?

 

[Ashhong]

It's the actual Download folder, though I do have it set as one of the library folders.

Hm I thought maybe if it was the Libraries folder it was searching for the network computer...but I am not sure why its lagging if its not. Have you tried removing the files that you added and seeing if that fixes it? Maybe single out the file causing the problem?

Hey guys maybe you can help me'


My comp will not load windows at all.... It's xp and out of nowhere it will do the whole boot up, but as soon as the window desktop is about to start the screen flashes blue and restarts ... So I try to go into safe mode and the same thing happens.. It goes to the blue screen and resets again .... Everything resets no matter what. It won't restore to anything either. Any advice?

Take picture of blue screen to get the code

 

[Choppasmith]

Hm I thought maybe if it was the Libraries folder it was searching for the network computer...but I am not sure why its lagging if its not. Have you tried removing the files that you added and seeing if that fixes it? Maybe single out the file causing the problem?



Take picture of blue screen to get the code

Thanks, I removed a few Itunes videos I had in there (which I had copied from the laptop) and that fixed it for the most part, I probably have a couple small files that I simply forgot. But now it's just 1 or 2 seconds of lag. Much better. Thanks. I have no idea why that would do it.

 

[Maddog]

Edit: Solved. Yay.

 

[DJ_Tet]

Oh you had two HDs?

I wanted to try a few other things before confirming it.

Yeah I've got two HDs, and they both have OSes on them that both load (at an abysmal rate.)

I'm open to ideas, like I said I've checked all the RAM and switched the HDs out (but not with one I KNOW to be good.) Both HDs were in the PC and were both running when my power went out(Was transferring a large file between the two.)

Would pulling the CMOS battery potentially do anything? I haven't tried taking out the video card yet, that's another piece I could check.


edit: Like I said earlier, it's like the computer is running at 1/1000 clock speed or something. Everything eventually works, but something is obviously very wrong. The fact that everything still works is throwing me for a loop. It's almost like there might be a virus? But it definitely happened when my power was cut. PC never worked right after that.

 

[clav]

Hey guys maybe you can help me'


My comp will not load windows at all.... It's xp and out of nowhere it will do the whole boot up, but as soon as the window desktop is about to start the screen flashes blue and restarts ... So I try to go into safe mode and the same thing happens.. It goes to the blue screen and resets again .... Everything resets no matter what. It won't restore to anything either. Any advice?

F8 and choose Last Known Configuration as you have never successfully booted into Desktop. If that works, you're gold.

But if it doesn't, at this point, I would just grab a LiveCD distribution of Ubuntu or a Windows Preinstallation Environment disk like BartPE, put all the files on a second hard drive, and bail out to prepare for a clean install.

You could try a repair install with a XP CD. Basically what it does is it deletes the Windows folder and installs over again.

I would go with a clean install for Windows 7 although try Last Known Configuration first.

Yeah I've got two HDs, and they both have OSes on them that both load (at an abysmal rate.)

I'm open to ideas, like I said I've checked all the RAM and switched the HDs out (but not with one I KNOW to be good.) Both HDs were in the PC and were both running when my power went out(Was transferring a large file between the two.)

Would pulling the CMOS battery potentially do anything? I haven't tried taking out the video card yet, that's another piece I could check.


edit: Like I said earlier, it's like the computer is running at 1/1000 clock speed or something. Everything eventually works, but something is obviously very wrong. The fact that everything still works is throwing me for a loop. It's almost like there might be a virus? But it definitely happened when my power was cut. PC never worked right after that.

Tell me your specs on your computer as in parts.

You could reset the CMOS by yes 1. pulling out the battery or 2. shorting the reset jumper and then putting it back to the normal jumper position.

 

[DJ_Tet]

Tell me your specs on your computer as in parts.

You could reset the CMOS by yes 1. pulling out the battery or 2. shorting the reset jumper and then putting it back to the normal jumper position.

It appears to not be the HD

I have a 2.2 gHz quad core AMD processor with 3 GB ram (3 1 GB sticks). Got a Radeon 4750 HD video card. Not sure what else might be relevant.

Haven't tried resetting the CMOS, I know how to do it just wasn't sure if it would help.

It would seem if there was an issue with the processor, the whole PC wouldn't work. I've never heard of a PC just running ass-slow like this (I'm a tech too but obviously not a very good one.)

 

[Barrett2]

Need help. Computer has some kind of spyware. Typical crap, all the sudden i start getting a million popups telling me to install crap because the computer is infected. It won't let me run Malwarebytes.

What should i do? Should I try booting in safe mode and run Malwarebytes from there? When i boot into safe mode it asks me if I want to log in as administrator or my normal user profile. Does it matter which one i boot into to run Malwarebytes?

 

[Ashhong]

Need help. Computer has some kind of spyware. Typical crap, all the sudden i start getting a million popups telling me to install crap because the computer is infected. It won't let me run Malwarebytes.

What should i do? Should I try booting in safe mode and run Malwarebytes from there? When i boot into safe mode it asks me if I want to log in as administrator or my normal user profile. Does it matter which one i boot into to run Malwarebytes?

Safe mode, admin. I honestly feel like the computer is never the same if its been infected that badly. I would back shit up and reformat.

 

[CrayzeeCarl]

Safe mode, admin. I honestly feel like the computer is never the same if its been infected that badly. I would back shit up and reformat.

.

 

[clav]

It appears to not be the HD

I have a 2.2 gHz quad core AMD processor with 3 GB ram (3 1 GB sticks). Got a Radeon 4750 HD video card. Not sure what else might be relevant.

Haven't tried resetting the CMOS, I know how to do it just wasn't sure if it would help.

It would seem if there was an issue with the processor, the whole PC wouldn't work. I've never heard of a PC just running ass-slow like this (I'm a tech too but obviously not a very good one.)

Do you have a multimeter?

Measure the voltages. If it's showing 4V for 5V and 10V on a 12V rail, then your power supply is bad.

Otherwise, it's the motherboard or RAM. Also check your cables. Replug them.

Need help. Computer has some kind of spyware. Typical crap, all the sudden i start getting a million popups telling me to install crap because the computer is infected. It won't let me run Malwarebytes.

What should i do? Should I try booting in safe mode and run Malwarebytes from there? When i boot into safe mode it asks me if I want to log in as administrator or my normal user profile. Does it matter which one i boot into to run Malwarebytes?

If reformat is not an option for you, then bust out the bad boy: combofix.

From my past experience working part-time while at school, I was under strict regulation that reformat is not an option, so I had to work out a lot of spyware/virus fixes without reformat. This was always my last resort.

Download: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/anti-virus/combofix

Run this in safe mode under either. Let it do its magic.

Once you get back to Windows XP, run your malwarebytes with definitions updated and on full scan.


What kind of antivirus do you use? I suggest using the latest Microsoft Security Essentials, but first clean up your mess first.

Safe mode, admin. I honestly feel like the computer is never the same if its been infected that badly. I would back shit up and reformat.

You can get it back to normal like I said above. It just require some work.

Your mentality is a bit OCD-ish.

 

[DJ_Tet]

Do you have a multimeter?

Measure the voltages. If it's showing 4V for 5V and 10V on a 12V rail, then your power supply is bad.

Otherwise, it's the motherboard or RAM. Also check your cables. Replug them.

I do have a multimeter. I actually seem to have fixed the issue. Either resetting my video card or removing the CMOS battery fixed the problem. I wish now I hadn't done both at once but the battery was right below the video card so not much of a choice.

Either way things seem to be back on track now. Thanks very much for your help!

 

[Aesius]

I'm having some major problems with my display resolution. I have a 23" ASUS LED monitor, which is capable of displaying 1080p@60hz. My graphics card is an ATI 4850.

On the desktop, everything is fine. 1080p works with no problem. But when I try to play games at 1080p, the screen is either horribly distorted or simply won't accept the resolution at all (changing the res on Crysis to 1080p gives me an "out of range" error on my monitor).

This is fucking bullshit, because it just randomly started doing this. Previously I could play all games at 1080p with no problems whatsoever. I'm thinking it's a problem with the refresh rate, because Windows 7's monitor adapter window shows my refresh rate as always being 59hz, even after I change it to 60. It just reverts back immediately.

WTF can I do? Is there a program I can download to lock the resolution and refresh rate at 1080p@60hz?

 

[Servbot #42]

You're right that the problem is related to the DVD laser.

If you're comfortable taking apart your DVD drive, you can easily access the laser and use some rubbing alcohol + cotton swab to gently clean the laser. If that doesn't work, then you'll need a multimeter and a small screw driver to do some POTS calibration.

Also look for a firmware update for your drive.

If you don't feel like doing any of this, then buy a new DVD drive. They don't cost much these days as I've consistently seen a $17 price tag on weekly Newegg deals.

On a side note, I've gone through 3 DVD drives on my laptop and a couple on my desktop.

sorry for the late reply, i guess my best bet now is to see if i can update the drive's firmware to see if that fixes the problem. If that fails i'll just look up some youtube tutorials and take apart my dvd drive in order to clean it like you said. Thanks a lot!

 

[X26]

with chrome is there a way to change it so you can revert a tab that's already open to your most visited pages tab?

 

[enzo_gt]

I'm SURE someone knows how to do this.

When I printscreen a fullscreen game, and paste my image into an image editing program, the image that I pasted is in the same res but appears all black. How do I fix this? Did this on my Vista machine but forgot how, currently on Windows 7.

 

[clav]

I'm SURE someone knows how to do this.

When I printscreen a fullscreen game, and paste my image into an image editing program, the image that I pasted is in the same res but appears all black. How do I fix this? Did this on my Vista machine but forgot how, currently on Windows 7.

I think it has to do something with Aero ruining the print screen, hence making it black.

Try modifying the game's application settings by right clicking on its shortcut -> Compatibility tab -> Disable desktop composition

This will disable Aero when you launch the game and allow you to print screen appropriately.

with chrome is there a way to change it so you can revert a tab that's already open to your most visited pages tab?

??? Are you asking that when you ctrl shift T it goes to the new tab page as opposed to Ctrl T?

I'm having some major problems with my display resolution. I have a 23" ASUS LED monitor, which is capable of displaying 1080p@60hz. My graphics card is an ATI 4850.

On the desktop, everything is fine. 1080p works with no problem. But when I try to play games at 1080p, the screen is either horribly distorted or simply won't accept the resolution at all (changing the res on Crysis to 1080p gives me an "out of range" error on my monitor).

This is fucking bullshit, because it just randomly started doing this. Previously I could play all games at 1080p with no problems whatsoever. I'm thinking it's a problem with the refresh rate, because Windows 7's monitor adapter window shows my refresh rate as always being 59hz, even after I change it to 60. It just reverts back immediately.

WTF can I do? Is there a program I can download to lock the resolution and refresh rate at 1080p@60hz?

Do you have a dual monitor setup? Any third-party programs that modify the desktop in any way?

Have you tried uninstalling your old ATi drivers and installing the latest ones?