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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

claviertekky said:
I was going to suggest handbrake but I don't see anything about handbrake supporting conversion to AVI containers.

There's a list of converters on the wiki page regarding AVCHD: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AVCHD#Converters
A link to the one suggested: http://fixounet.free.fr/avidemux/

Otherwise, I suggest you get a hold of some better software like Sony Vegas or even per say borrowing a Mac with Final Cut Pro.




Check in your Programs and Features (from Control Panel) Add/Remove programs section to see if you already have realtek HD installed.

Here's the link to the drivers: http://218.210.127.131/downloads/do...=3&GetDown=false#High Definition Audio Codecs

Please double check though. It'll be helpful if you posted your motherboard as I'm assuming you're using your integrated sound card from there.
Oh sweet jesus thank you, it worked

I'll be able to sleep now

well... kind of. Movie maker won't open the resulting AVI files, but AVI is a lot easier of a file format to convert, so I think I can take it from here.
 

clav

Member
Malleymal said:
Thanks for helping me' clav... As for the two screens... The first screen is when I load up the comp normally or in safe mode or last good config.... The second screen is when I use the xp repair cd I made.

As for the type of drive... That I don't know, I was given the comp at work so it was already put together before I received it... I tried to do some stuff in bios but I am not an admin ...
Regarding your comment about "not an admin," are you saying you can't access the BIOS setup since it's password protected?

To better explain this, every computer has a BIOS setup you can access using a key button press or key combination. For most computers, it's the "Del" key and for some others it can be the F1 key.

You'll have to see as the key to enter setup is on the first screen with the computer logo/section when the computer tallies up the RAM. For computers that have audible speakers, it's the part after the computer beeps. You then press the corresponding key or key combination to enter setup.

If you understood that, does it ask you for a password?

------------------

I guess you're not familiar with the internals from the way you described it. Is there any chance you can open the case up and take a picture of what's inside?


balladofwindfishes said:
Oh sweet jesus thank you, it worked

I'll be able to sleep now

well... kind of. Movie maker won't open the resulting AVI files, but AVI is a lot easier of a file format to convert, so I think I can take it from here.

Like I said before, if you're still having trouble, find some better software like Sony Vegas or borrow someone's Mac who has iMovie or Final Cut Pro.
 

JaseC

gave away the keys to the kingdom.
Some time ago I was dual-booting Windows 7 and XP, and at some point the XP installation died and I went back to Windows 7 on itself. The problem is, the Windows folder from the XP installation is still residing on my F: drive and I want to get rid of it as it's both an eyesore and taking up space.

Obviously, deleting it via Windows Explorer isn't possible, so does anybody know of something I can use to force-delete it?
 

Jill Sandwich

the turds of Optimus Prime
I have an Acer Aspire T630 giving me a headache.
984591.jpg


It's been given to me wiped clean, and had a fresh coat of WinXP SP3. In Device Manager there are lots of question marks requiring drivers, which I've downloaded from the ACER website. None of the drivers will install, saying it can't find a suitable match. These are the drivers for the T630 from the ACER website!

So now I've been given the actual restore discs that came with the machine. I put them in and "This disc is for Acer computers only" pops up, then quits. I try running the Setup.exe from the same disc, it does the same thing. I try installing the drivers that are on the disc, they don't work.

What the fuck is wrong with this POS?
 

clav

Member
JaseC said:
Some time ago I was dual-booting Windows 7 and XP, and at some point the XP installation died and I went back to Windows 7 on itself. The problem is, the Windows folder from the XP installation is still residing on my F: drive and I want to get rid of it as it's both an eyesore and taking up space.

Obviously, deleting it via Windows Explorer isn't possible, so does anybody know of something I can use to force-delete it?
Use a Ubuntu CD/DVD or Windows PE (I.e. Bart PE) disk to do so.

Alternatively, you can just nuke the XP installation as it's on another partition, right? Did you install XP or 7 first?


Jill Sandwich said:
I have an Acer Aspire T630 giving me a headache.
984591.jpg


It's been given to me wiped clean, and had a fresh coat of WinXP SP3. In Device Manager there are lots of question marks requiring drivers, which I've downloaded from the ACER website. None of the drivers will install, saying it can't find a suitable match. These are the drivers for the T630 from the ACER website!

So now I've been given the actual restore discs that came with the machine. I put them in and "This disc is for Acer computers only" pops up, then quits. I try running the Setup.exe from the same disc, it does the same thing. I try installing the drivers that are on the disc, they don't work.

What the fuck is wrong with this POS?

Regarding the freshcoat of XP SP3, just run the setup.exe files from the website. I downloaded one, and sure enough there's a setup.exe in there.

As for the restore disks, they just don't work sadly as that's an Acer fail right there. They should be working if you're not lying that those disks were from the same computer. You are running the restoration disk through the BIOS boot, right? The disks are supposed to check for a SLP signature that's on the BIOS to verify it's an Acer computer.

Can you print screen the Device Manager question marks?
 
Jill Sandwich said:
So now I've been given the actual restore discs that came with the machine. I put them in and "This disc is for Acer computers only" pops up, then quits. I try running the Setup.exe from the same disc, it does the same thing. I try installing the drivers that are on the disc, they don't work.

What the fuck is wrong with this POS?
That's because you now have a retail version of XP on the system as opposed to the OEM version the system came with. I don't think you can use the restore disc now.
 

clav

Member
CrayzeeCarl said:
That's because you now have a retail version of XP on the system as opposed to the OEM version the system came with. I don't think you can use the restore disc now.
No that's not it. Restoration disks usually check the BIOS signature to see if it's their computer to proceed installation.
 

Jill Sandwich

the turds of Optimus Prime
Regarding the freshcoat of XP SP3, just run the setup.exe files from the website.
If you mean the driver .exe files, they refuse to work, as they need the chipset drivers first... which don't work.

As for the restore disks, they just don't work sadly as that's an Acer fail right there. They should be working if you're not lying that those disks were from the same computer.
These discs are genuine you cheeky sod. :)

You are running the restoration disk through the BIOS boot, right?

Yeah, I get a flashing red DOS screen that gives you seizures whilst informing you the disc is only for ACER PCs, I tried it in Windows as well knowing full well it wouldn't work, but after a while you'll try anything with a naughty PC.

Can you print screen the Device Manager question marks?

I will when I get home in 3.5 hours.
 

clav

Member
Jill Sandwich said:
If you mean the driver .exe files, they refuse to work, as they need the chipset drivers first... which don't work.


These discs are genuine you cheeky sod. :)



Yeah, I get a flashing red DOS screen that gives you seizures whilst informing you the disc is only for ACER PCs, I tried it in Windows as well knowing full well it wouldn't work, but after a while you'll try anything with a naughty PC.



I will when I get home in 3.5 hours.
Just noticed this on Acer's website. There's a hardware vendor detection utility.

http://global-download.gateway.com/FilesDownload/HWID/HWVendorDetection.exe
 
Hoping I can post it here as this falls more into video codec help.

I've been using my HD PVR to record Judge Judy (via Satellite DVR recordings) for my mom at 480p. I record it and edit it in .TS, and then convert it to MP4 with deinterlace and a 3000 bitrate in H264. And then use Windows DVD maker to make a quick and simple DVD and it looks fine. I would just keep it as a TS, except all my Media Players tend to have trouble playing TS files (screen gets blocky and glitchy when seeking).

What would be a good format/codec/setting that would look good burned to DVD AND be okay for PC playback?
 

Jill Sandwich

the turds of Optimus Prime
The Hardware Vendor Detection Utility just displayed the NVidea Graphics card, of which the drivers won't install. This is what Device Manager looks like.

imkfE.jpg
 

clav

Member
Jill Sandwich said:
The Hardware Vendor Detection Utility just displayed the NVidea Graphics card, of which the drivers won't install. This is what Device Manager looks like.

imkfE.jpg
Does it use an AMD processor?

I'm wondering if your board is a nForce2 chipset because judging from what you're missing almost looks identical to my 5-6 year old boards that are nforce2 based as these boards were very popular at the time. All the drivers are contained on the nforce2 package let me go find my driver set and upload them.

I think this may be turning into a case that your guys from work modified the internals and left the original T630 casing on there?

update: ok I found a set of nforce 2 drivers: http://www.mediafire.com/?zmzedz3gmjb

only do this if you have an AMD processor otherwise report back.
 
I don't know if this is the best thread for this, but maybe you guys can help. The problem is with Youtube, when I "fullscreen" a video it jumps in resolution (240 to 360, 360 to 480 etc.) automatically. As I am using a netbook this is pretty annoying( especially if I preload the vid before watching as the switch in resolution mean I have to wait for it to reload)
 

clav

Member
Cerebral Assassin said:
I don't know if this is the best thread for this, but maybe you guys can help. The problem is with Youtube, when I "fullscreen" a video it jumps in resolution (240 to 360, 360 to 480 etc.) automatically. As I am using a netbook this is pretty annoying( especially if I preload the vid before watching as the switch in resolution mean I have to wait for it to reload)
Google's making fun of us for having slow connections. I find it annoying, but my friends who have faster internet connections love it since they can stream it just fine and love how it plays in 1080p on full screen.

If you use Firefox, there might be a way using greasemonkey involved. I'm not familiar with it, but perhaps some researching can be done about it.
 
claviertekky said:
Google's making fun of us for having slow connections. I find it annoying, but my friends who have faster internet connections love it since they can stream it just fine and love how it plays in 1080p on full screen.

If you use Firefox, there might be a way using greasemonkey involved. I'm not familiar with it, but perhaps some researching can be done about it.


My connection can handle it(I think the bar fills up OK) but my netbook gets very choppy at 720p(& even 480p sometimes ). The odd thing is this doesn't happen on every video that has higher resolutions. Thanks for the help but unfortunately I use Chrome so I can't use Greasemonkey.
 

Jzero

Member
Cerebral Assassin said:
My connection can handle it(I think the bar fills up OK) but my netbook gets very choppy at 720p(& even 480p sometimes ). The odd thing is this doesn't happen on every video that has higher resolutions. Thanks for the help but unfortunately I use Chrome so I can't use Greasemonkey.
You can change that in your Account Settings>Playback Setup>Video Playback Quality
 

clav

Member
Jzero15 said:
You can change that in your Account Settings>Playback Setup>Video Playback Quality
That does it for not autoplaybacking HD, but it still changes the quality to 480p if you fullsize it from 360p.
 

PantherLotus

Professional Schmuck
Tech Support GAF, can anybody point me to the appropriate thread for asking what the absolute best already-built (and new) computer for less than $600 I can get is?
 
I switched my sata port so because of the p67 problems. Now I can't boot went to load my windows disc now I get a check sum error going to try later. Disconnected my other sata drives too. Just got my disc and ssd connected.
 
PantherLotus said:
Tech Support GAF, can anybody point me to the appropriate thread for asking what the absolute best already-built (and new) computer for less than $600 I can get is?

You can get a Phenom X6 now, with 6-12GB of ram and a 1TB HD for around $600 now. Might want to price some i5 2500k's too, but I'm not sure if production was halted because of the design defect.

100_0893.jpg


I have no idea what caused this, but there's a line going through my plasma TV now. It's not too old either, around 2 years. Has this happened to anyone else and is there a way to fix this? I've been gaming on the TV a bit more than usual, but that wouldn't be the cause, would it? It's not limited to just cable, its on all the inputs.
 

Schrade

Member
Jill Sandwich said:
The Hardware Vendor Detection Utility just displayed the NVidea Graphics card, of which the drivers won't install. This is what Device Manager looks like.

http://i.imgur.com/imkfE.jpg
Download the Chipset driver from this page: http://support.acer.com/us/en/product/default.aspx?modelId=392

Try to install that. (I couldn't tell if you tried that yet)

Order of installation:

1) Chipset drivers (install then reboot system)
2) Video Driver (don't reboot yet)
3) Sound Driver (don't reboot yet)
4) LAN Driver (OK, reboot the system)

Everything else you can install in whatever order you want.

You can get the drivers onto the system using a USB stick.
 
riceandbeans said:
You can get a Phenom X6 now, with 6-12GB of ram and a 1TB HD for around $600 now. Might want to price some i5 2500k's too, but I'm not sure if production was halted because of the design defect.

100_0893.jpg


I have no idea what caused this, but there's a line going through my plasma TV now. It's not too old either, around 2 years. Has this happened to anyone else and is there a way to fix this? I've been gaming on the TV a bit more than usual, but that wouldn't be the cause, would it? It's not limited to just cable, its on all the inputs.
plasma kinda work closer to old crts than lcd. if anything happens on a line it could potentially band across your whole screen. that line mine just be dead. :(
Avs says its could be anything from a bad video board, bad power supply to that line. Cant fix it at home. 100 at a local tv shop, if they can do maintentce, will at least give you diagnostic, and you can sell it saying it needs repair.
 

Tedesco!

Member
I would like to buy a blu-ray burner for my Mac Pro, but I am hearing that Mac doesn't support BR playback. Does anyone know if this is true?
 

Jill Sandwich

the turds of Optimus Prime
I tried all of that already Schrade, it won't accept any drivers, even though they are for that model downloaded from the Acer site.
Anyway I got the restore discs working as spread out on the discs were Ghost files, so I restored the image to the computer.
But the image is corrupt.

So fuck it, she can have her crappy pc back, I could have been doing better things this week.
 

clav

Member
Jill Sandwich said:
I tried all of that already Schrade, it won't accept any drivers, even though they are for that model downloaded from the Acer site.
Anyway I got the restore discs working as spread out on the discs were Ghost files, so I restored the image to the computer.
But the image is corrupt.

So fuck it, she can have her crappy pc back, I could have been doing better things this week.
Did you try what I suggested?

I was wondering if it was an AMD CPU.


Schrade said:
Download the Chipset driver from this page: http://support.acer.com/us/en/product/default.aspx?modelId=392

Try to install that. (I couldn't tell if you tried that yet)

Order of installation:

1) Chipset drivers (install then reboot system)
2) Video Driver (don't reboot yet)
3) Sound Driver (don't reboot yet)
4) LAN Driver (OK, reboot the system)

Everything else you can install in whatever order you want.

You can get the drivers onto the system using a USB stick.

I figured he did it correctly by the sound of it. I just don't know his system spec in terms of it's an AMD CPU or Intel CPU.

Chances are the internals are not what the T630 website has them remembered.
 

Ermac

Proudly debt free. If you need a couple bucks, just ask.
On my MacBook, the "Set as Desktop Picture" option disappeared in my right click menu. Anyone know where it went?
 

PantherLotus

Professional Schmuck
riceandbeans said:
You can get a Phenom X6 now, with 6-12GB of ram and a 1TB HD for around $600 now. Might want to price some i5 2500k's too, but I'm not sure if production was halted because of the design defect.

Where's a good place to look for the X6? Did I mention I don't need a monitor?
 

clav

Member
Ermac said:
On my MacBook, the "Set as Desktop Picture" option disappeared in my right click menu. Anyone know where it went?
http://discussions.info.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=11364571

PantherLotus said:
Where's a good place to look for the X6? Did I mention I don't need a monitor?

Amazon, newegg, zipzoomfly, tigerdirect, fry's.

If you want to save some money, you could find it used on eBay.


Tedesco! said:
I would like to buy a blu-ray burner for my Mac Pro, but I am hearing that Mac doesn't support BR playback. Does anyone know if this is true?

Blu-ray playback should be able to occur with just software. Are you planning on buying an external blu-ray player?
 
PantherLotus said:
Where's a good place to look for the X6? Did I mention I don't need a monitor?

The deals gone, but I'd keep checking Costco and look around Google. They had a deal for a Phenom X6 for $600 that had a 1TB harddrive and 6GB DDR3 ram. Not sure on the other specs. As far as pre-built price per performance goes, that's a pretty good deal.
 

clav

Member
belvedere said:
Word types from right to left. WTF.

Checked additional languages etc.

Cannot figure this one out for the life of me.

What languages do you have installed?

Also, do you have sticky keys turned on?
 

Malleymal

You now belong to FMT.
claviertekky said:
Regarding your comment about "not an admin," are you saying you can't access the BIOS setup since it's password protected?

To better explain this, every computer has a BIOS setup you can access using a key button press or key combination. For most computers, it's the "Del" key and for some others it can be the F1 key.

You'll have to see as the key to enter setup is on the first screen with the computer logo/section when the computer tallies up the RAM. For computers that have audible speakers, it's the part after the computer beeps. You then press the corresponding key or key combination to enter setup.

If you understood that, does it ask you for a password?

------------------

I guess you're not familiar with the internals from the way you described it. Is there any chance you can open the case up and take a picture of what's inside?




Like I said before, if you're still having trouble, find some better software like Sony Vegas or borrow someone's Mac who has iMovie or Final Cut Pro.
Thanks again for all your help... As for the bios, I can get in there but after I am in there, some things aren't changeable unless I have a password. I don't have admin rights.

I ran a diagnostics test and everything passed up until the optical drive test and I received this message

2ee7c2a0.jpg
 

clav

Member
Malleymal said:
Thanks again for all your help... As for the bios, I can get in there but after I am in there, some things aren't changeable unless I have a password. I don't have admin rights.

I ran a diagnostics test and everything passed up until the optical drive test and I received this message

http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff371/kamkorn/2ee7c2a0.jpg

I think you can remove the BIOS password by either clearing the CMOS jumper or removing the battery on the motherboard on the motherboard for some seconds and then putting it back in. You'll need to input the time + date settings again though after doing this.

As for your screen, hm. I never ran the self-utility test before although I suppose something's wrong with the cables inside. Did you try running the test without a disk in the drive?
 
So ever since I moved to Windows 7x64, I noticed that I can't actually boot my system cold. If I do, the BIOS won't detect the hard drive and say "No boot device detected." If I hit the reboot button Windows starts fine, and rebooting within Windows still works, but still this is annoying and I worry part of a larger problem.

Thought it might be the brand new WD Caviar Black drive I bought for Windows 7, so I RMAed it. Got the replacement yesterday, did a fresh Win7 install, same thing.

Thought it might have something to do with the fact that it's an AHCI drive and you're supposed to pre-load an Intel AHCI driver when installing Windows, or at least that's what I thought. I alternately tried installing Windows with that, and without. Problem happened either way. I still think that might have something to do with it but I don't know what.

Motherboard is Asus P5B Deluxe, latest firmware. Chipset is Intel ICH8.
 

Malleymal

You now belong to FMT.
claviertekky said:
I think you can remove the BIOS password by either clearing the CMOS jumper or removing the battery on the motherboard on the motherboard for some seconds and then putting it back in. You'll need to input the time + date settings again though after doing this.

As for your screen, hm. I never ran the self-utility test before although I suppose something's wrong with the cables inside. Did you try running the test without a disk in the drive?
So I would have to open the laptop to do this? Well removing the battery I know I would but the CMOS jumper thing would I also have to open it?

Also what are the signs that the hard drive is destroyed? Like there is no saving it... I have stuff on there from other jobs that I don't feel like sharing with this company and if I give it to them to fix, would they be able to copy those documents?
 

clav

Member
faceless007 said:
So ever since I moved to Windows 7x64, I noticed that I can't actually boot my system cold. If I do, the BIOS won't detect the hard drive and say "No boot device detected." If I hit the reboot button Windows starts fine, and rebooting within Windows still works, but still this is annoying and I worry part of a larger problem.

Thought it might be the brand new WD Caviar Black drive I bought for Windows 7, so I RMAed it. Got the replacement yesterday, did a fresh Win7 install, same thing.

Thought it might have something to do with the fact that it's an AHCI drive and you're supposed to pre-load an Intel AHCI driver when installing Windows, or at least that's what I thought. I alternately tried installing Windows with that, and without. Problem happened either way. I still think that might have something to do with it but I don't know what.

Motherboard is Asus P5B Deluxe, latest firmware. Chipset is Intel ICH8.
It has to do when the drive is actually detected in the BIOS.

I know for my 1TB refurbished Seagate, it takes at least 5 seconds to boot up after a bunch of clicking, and it gave me the same cold start error as you did. Hence I have removed that drive as my OS drive and used a Maxtor DiamondMax (rebranded Seagate 7200.10). I never found out a way to delay the BIOS start sequence aside from using a different drive.

I also use AHCI.


Malleymal said:
So I would have to open the laptop to do this? Well removing the battery I know I would but the CMOS jumper thing would I also have to open it?

Also what are the signs that the hard drive is destroyed? Like there is no saving it... I have stuff on there from other jobs that I don't feel like sharing with this company and if I give it to them to fix, would they be able to copy those documents?


Oh on a laptop, yeah, you have to open the top panel (underneath the keyboard) is where the CMOS battery usually is.

If you can boot a Ubuntu Live CD (free) or USB disk, you can retrieve your files there. I think you can change the boot option by mashing F12 on a Dell laptop.

Usually you can tell a hard drive is destroyed if the BIOS does not detect it. From an audio standpoint, you will sometimes hear intermittent clicking as the head is trying to park and find a starting point to read. You said everything checked out as one time my friend ran that tool when his Samsung drive died.

Tell me what you want to do: clear the password or save your files.
 

Ashhong

Member
Recently upgraded my Windows 7 Pro to Ultimate so that I could install Korean Language Packs. However for some reason its not always there when I turn on my comp.

What I mean is, originally the ID3 tags on some of my songs weren't displaying correctly in Explorer, so I installed Ultimate. After installing, the little language bar on the bottom right popped up and my tags were fine.

After restarting, the tags are messed up and theres no toolbar. I have to go to the language option, change my language to Korean, and then BACK to English for my tags and the bar to show again.

Is it supposed to be like this?
 

Schrade

Member
faceless007 said:
So ever since I moved to Windows 7x64, I noticed that I can't actually boot my system cold. If I do, the BIOS won't detect the hard drive and say "No boot device detected." If I hit the reboot button Windows starts fine, and rebooting within Windows still works, but still this is annoying and I worry part of a larger problem.

Thought it might be the brand new WD Caviar Black drive I bought for Windows 7, so I RMAed it. Got the replacement yesterday, did a fresh Win7 install, same thing.

Thought it might have something to do with the fact that it's an AHCI drive and you're supposed to pre-load an Intel AHCI driver when installing Windows, or at least that's what I thought. I alternately tried installing Windows with that, and without. Problem happened either way. I still think that might have something to do with it but I don't know what.

Motherboard is Asus P5B Deluxe, latest firmware. Chipset is Intel ICH8.
Go into the BIOS settings and set the AHCI drive delay to something longer than it is. There's usually an option in there to delay the detection.
 

Malleymal

You now belong to FMT.
claviertekky said:
It has to do when the drive is actually detected in the BIOS.

I know for my 1TB refurbished Seagate, it takes at least 5 seconds to boot up after a bunch of clicking, and it gave me the same cold start error as you did. Hence I have removed that drive as my OS drive and used a Maxtor DiamondMax (rebranded Seagate 7200.10). I never found out a way to delay the BIOS start sequence aside from using a different drive.

I also use AHCI.





Oh on a laptop, yeah, you have to open the top panel (underneath the keyboard) is where the CMOS battery usually is.

If you can boot a Ubuntu Live CD (free) or USB disk, you can retrieve your files there. I think you can change the boot option by mashing F12 on a Dell laptop.

Usually you can tell a hard drive is destroyed if the BIOS does not detect it. From an audio standpoint, you will sometimes hear intermittent clicking as the head is trying to park and find a starting point to read. You said everything checked out as one time my friend ran that tool when his Samsung drive died.

Tell me what you want to do: clear the password or save your files.
Just messing around I guessed the admin password, so now I can mess around with the bios... Anything you recommend I should do now?
 

clav

Member
Malleymal said:
Just messing around I guessed the admin password, so now I can mess around with the bios... Anything you recommend I should do now?
In hindsight now that you've told me it's a laptop, I don't think there's a setting to change something regarding AHCI and IDE. I'm terribly sorry about that. Check just to make sure.

Otherwise, I suppose you can enable the options to let you boot from other sources like a USB drive and DVD drive. What model Dell is that per chance?

So you want the files off that thing right? You might want to look into getting a Linux USB Live Distribution like Ubuntu and copy the files from there.
 

Malleymal

You now belong to FMT.
Dell latitude D520

Only thing that seems to work more than the computer rebooting itself is the little repair disk I made but like I said that also gives me' an error. Where can I find the unbuntu drive or are there some anti virus reboot discs out there?
 

clav

Member
Malleymal said:
Dell latitude D520

Only thing that seems to work more than the computer rebooting itself is the little repair disk I made but like I said that also gives me' an error. Where can I find the unbuntu drive or are there some anti virus reboot discs out there?
If you have a blank DVD or a spare USB Flash Drive that's 1GB big, you can make yourself a Linux OS that boots directly off a DVD drive or external USB device.

http://www.ubuntu.com/desktop/get-ubuntu/download

To me, your problem sounds more and more hardware related. If you can't get Ubuntu to boot successfully off a CD/USB drive, then you'll have to take the hard drive out and put it in an external enclosure, another laptop, or a desktop computer.

What repair disk was it?
 

Vyer

Member
Malleymal said:
Thanks again for all your help... As for the bios, I can get in there but after I am in there, some things aren't changeable unless I have a password. I don't have admin rights.

I ran a diagnostics test and everything passed up until the optical drive test and I received this message

2ee7c2a0.jpg

This is probably why you got the second blue screen - when you are trying to use your repair cd/dvd, it's failing because there is something wrong with your drive. This is one of the reasons you will see the pci.sys blue screen failure.

ie; whatever the problem with the OS is, faulty driver or corrupted Windows, any repairs involving your faulty drive are going to be a problem.
 
Schrade said:
Go into the BIOS settings and set the AHCI drive delay to something longer than it is. There's usually an option in there to delay the detection.
Looked at that, it was already set to 35s, the max. It definitely isn't waiting 35s before puking up the error though, closer to 10s.
 

sarcastor

Member
Sweet love of god i need some help. I somehow got infected with spyware and MS security found and removed it

But now I'm getting BSOD of death when i log onto my computer, even in safe mode. I can't find my W7 DVD and google is no help. What can i do?
 

Outlaw

Banned
sarcastor said:
Sweet love of god i need some help. I somehow got infected with spyware and MS security found and removed it

But now I'm getting BSOD of death when i log onto my computer, even in safe mode. I can't find my W7 DVD and google is no help. What can i do?


In the same screen where you select safe-mode:


have you tried using "Last known good configuration"?

You can also try to select safe-mode with command prompt and once in the command prompt enter: chkdsk c:/r where "c" is the drive letter.

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/682-command-prompt-startup.html
 

sarcastor

Member
Outlaw said:
In the same screen where you select safe-mode:


have you tried using "Last known good configuration"?

You can also try to select safe-mode with command prompt and once in the command prompt enter: chkdsk c:/r where "c" is the drive letter.

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/682-command-prompt-startup.html
I can't get to a commnd prompt when booting in safe mode. I get the BSOD And then reboot automatically. I found my win7 DVD but it's completely useless since auto repair does jack shit. I managed to get a dos prompt when booting off the win7 DVD but my keyboard doesnt #!#? work.
 
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