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Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

Dartastic

Member
Guh. Need some help pronto. So this stupid TV that I just bought for black friday (samsung series 5003 LED, it looks gorgeous) doesn't have ANY audio outs. AT ALL. It just has two HDMI in, and 1 component in. Problem is, I have a surround sound system that I run by having my HDMI go into my TV, then have the audio go out from my TV into my surround sound system. I have a Bose Lifestyle 35, so it has no HDMI in. It just has optical and coaxial ins, both digital. This is obviously posing a massive problem, as I want to use my surround sound system and not these asstacular speakers on the TV. Help me GAF. I'm really tired as I haven't gone to sleep yet. I'm going to bed. When I wake up I really hope that you guys can help me on the cheap because I like this TV and I don't want to return it, and I'm really tired. =(

I should mention that I have a ps3 slim and 360
Slim I want to plug into it.
 

_RT_

Member
Guh. Need some help pronto. So this stupid TV that I just bought for black friday (samsung series 5003 LED, it looks gorgeous) doesn't have ANY audio outs. AT ALL. It just has two HDMI in, and 1 component in. Problem is, I have a surround sound system that I run by having my HDMI go into my TV, then have the audio go out from my TV into my surround sound system. I have a Bose Lifestyle 35, so it has no HDMI in. It just has optical and coaxial ins, both digital. This is obviously posing a massive problem, as I want to use my surround sound system and not these asstacular speakers on the TV. Help me GAF. I'm really tired as I haven't gone to sleep yet. I'm going to bed. When I wake up I really hope that you guys can help me on the cheap because I like this TV and I don't want to return it, and I'm really tired. =(

I should mention that I have a ps3 slim and 360
Slim I want to plug into it.
Cable box by chance? Hdmi to tv. Optical to bose. Ps3 to bose.
 

Whogie

Member
Gotta get an optical switch then. Manual ones are cheap and have worked fine for me (but require you to get up.) Or you could pay more and get a powered one.

Or use the excuse for a receiver with HDMI passthrough ^^;

Is there any point in waiting for Ivy Bridge for a new laptop? I've heard that the integrated GPU will be a big improvement, but I'm thinking of having an external GPU anyway. (maybe I can get SB machines for cheaper, when IB is out?)
(I didn't know external GPUs were even an option yet.) Well, at least you'll have a little bit more graphical power when you aren't lugging it around.
Ivy Bridge will use the new transistors which should improve battery life.
 

venne

Member
No cable box. I just have the PS3, 360, and TV. I realized that if I run optical audio out from my ps3 and 360 that should work, but I only have one optical input on my bose. =(

http://www.ehow.com/how_7486530_put-one-fiber-optic-input.html

Just don't run them both at once.


- - - - - -

I'm experiencing a weird issue with my ssd and windows 7. It says I have 20 of ~60gb free, but I am using about 28 GB not roughly 40. I've checked the usual suspects of hibernation, system restore, disk clean up, and other hidden files. For some reason I'm still missing about 12 GB of storage.

Any thoughts?
 

Dartastic

Member
Gotta get an optical switch then. Manual ones are cheap and have worked fine for me (but require you to get up.) Or you could pay more and get a powered one.

Or use the excuse for a receiver with HDMI passthrough ^^;
That would require buying an entire new system and I just don't have the money or desire to do that. I'm assuming for two cheap optical cables I should just hit up newegg.

Edit - Oh wow, 8 bucks for 2 optical cable and the splitter. YAY. PROBLEM SOLVED, I THINK.
 

Whogie

Member
I'm experiencing a weird issue with my ssd and windows 7. It says I have 20 of ~60gb free, but I am using about 28 GB not roughly 40. I've checked the usual suspects of hibernation, system restore, disk clean up, and other hidden files. For some reason I'm still missing about 12 GB of storage.

Any thoughts?
Page file?

That would require buying an entire new system and I just don't have the money or desire to do that. I'm assuming for two cheap optical cables I should just hit up newegg.
No, I'm talking about this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OBTT0Q/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Seems venne is referring to something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MQGR2/?tag=neogaf0e-20
(just have one device on at a time)
 

Dartastic

Member
Ah. Yeah. I bought the one I found for 90 cents off amazon. HOpefully this works. I like this tv.

Hah, we edited at the same time. Yeah. That's the one I'm referring to.
 

Fugu

Member
I'm not entirely sure that anyone will be able to answer my question but I'll give it a shot anyway.

My dad has had a rather powerful desktop kicking around for awhile and he just bought a nice laptop so he's giving it to me; the parts aren't new but they're barely used. I'm planning on taking the motherboard, CPU and RAM from it.

The CPU has had some... problems in the past (rapid and unexplainable overheats) that I attributed to a bad heatsink installation as after reseating everything the problems seem to have gone away. But as a time-saving measure I decided to test the components before I put them in my computer in case they were actually defective, so I ran Prime 95 at 8kb FFT with overlap with the intent being to just stress the processor. It ran error-free for about twelve hours, but when I came down to use the computer today (with Prime still running, as I only needed to do some browsing) after about fifteen minutes of use it BSOD'd, all without producing any errors in Prime. I monitored the temperatures before it did so and nothing seemed unusual (certainly high but well within the normal range and not as hot as they'd been).

So basically I'm just wondering if you guys suspect that I should be worried about the BSOD from a stability standpoint or if I can safely chalk it up to user error, as I don't really feel like starting another twenty-four hour cycle if I don't have to.

EDIT: Right. Missed an important detail. The CPU is an i7 920.
 

MIMIC

Banned
Hello almighty tech support GAF. I need some assistance.

I just bought a new Windows 7 machine (upgrading from my old Windows HP Home machine finally). I'm trying to transfer files between the two machines with an ethernet cable.

I've done all the steps regarding the shared folders and changing the IPs and whatnot.

Right now, I'm in the "Network" pane on the Windows 7 machine and my XP computer is listed as one of the computers that I can connect to. The problem is that when I attempt to connect, I am prompted with a user name and a password. I've already tried everything I can think of, but nothing works. So I want to know how:

a) I can find out the user name/password that is being requested or
b) If I can disable the prompt so I can connect

Thanks :)
 

Whogie

Member
Prime didn't even error. It kept running perfectly fine; as far as it knows, I just stopped it.
I mean your BSOD logs. Maybe you can find what driver failed/BCCode.

Hello almighty tech support GAF. I need some assistance.

I just bought a new Windows 7 machine (upgrading from my old Windows HP Home machine finally). I'm trying to transfer files between the two machines with an ethernet cable.

I've done all the steps regarding the shared folders and changing the IPs and whatnot.

Right now, I'm in the "Network" pane on the Windows 7 machine and my XP computer is listed as one of the computers that I can connect to. The problem is that when I attempt to connect, I am prompted with a user name and a password. I've already tried everything I can think of, but nothing works. So I want to know how:

a) I can find out the user name/password that is being requested or
b) If I can disable the prompt so I can connect

Thanks :)

Use the username/password you use to log into the machine you're connecting to. If it doesn't have a password, create one.
 

kottila

Member
Gotta get an optical switch then. Manual ones are cheap and have worked fine for me (but require you to get up.) Or you could pay more and get a powered one.

Or use the excuse for a receiver with HDMI passthrough ^^;


(I didn't know external GPUs were even an option yet.) Well, at least you'll have a little bit more graphical power when you aren't lugging it around.
Ivy Bridge will use the new transistors which should improve battery life.

Meant external graphics card. Bern a while since i've had to deal with hardware.
 
A while back I had to reformat my PC or something weird, and all the built in features were mostly disabled, including a program that allowed me to take pictures and record video with my camera.
Is there a way to fix this, or a program that does the same I can use?
 

sykoex

Lost all credibility.
Having an iTunes problem. I have my iTunes library on a separate partition. I had to format my main Win7 partition. So I reinstalled Win7 and iTunes, and pointed iTunes to my library on the other partition in the preferences "iTunes Media folder location". For some reason it isn't actually populating the data in that folder into iTunes. How can I fix this?

I even had iTunes download songs I've purchased from iTunes (a small portion of my total songs) and it downloaded duplicates to those same folders on the partition, and each of the duplicate files have a "1" on the end of the filenames.
 

Kammie

Member
Having an iTunes problem. I have my iTunes library on a separate partition. I had to format my main Win7 partition. So I reinstalled Win7 and iTunes, and pointed iTunes to my library on the other partition in the preferences "iTunes Media folder location". For some reason it isn't actually populating the data in that folder into iTunes. How can I fix this?

I even had iTunes download songs I've purchased from iTunes (a small portion of my total songs) and it downloaded duplicates to those same folders on the partition, and each of the duplicate files have a "1" on the end of the filenames.
You will need to drag-and-drop all the songs into iTunes (you can probably just drop the whole directory there).

The proper way to have made the migration would have been to save the iTunes library files, then set the Library to the same location in iTunes under the Advanced options. Put all the files in the same disk letter/directory they were in before and replace the library files. Open iTunes, and it would have carried over your playcounts, ratings, playlists. If you didn't do that you'll be starting from scratch.
 

Jzero

Member
A while back I had to reformat my PC or something weird, and all the built in features were mostly disabled, including a program that allowed me to take pictures and record video with my camera.
Is there a way to fix this, or a program that does the same I can use?
lol wut, you're just clicking stuff without knowing what you did? anyways, If you formatted and you had a brand computer( dell, hp, etc.) then you probably need to re-install the software and drivers. It may have come with cd's with your computer but if you don't have them then you can go to the manufacturer's site and download them from there.
 
lol wut, you're just clicking stuff without knowing what you did? anyways, If you formatted and you had a brand computer( dell, hp, etc.) then you probably need to re-install the software and drivers. It may have come with cd's with your computer but if you don't have them then you can go to the manufacturer's site and download them from there.
Yes, because im a complete idiot like that lol.

No, actually my gramps had to reinstall stuff or something because some things werent working right. He knew what he was doing but i forgot to ask him about this.

Thanks though.
 

sykoex

Lost all credibility.
You will need to drag-and-drop all the songs into iTunes (you can probably just drop the whole directory there).

The proper way to have made the migration would have been to save the iTunes library files, then set the Library to the same location in iTunes under the Advanced options. Put all the files in the same disk letter/directory they were in before and replace the library files. Open iTunes, and it would have carried over your playcounts, ratings, playlists. If you didn't do that you'll be starting from scratch.
Thanks for responding! I'll remember the library stuff next time I have to do this.
 
Hey guys, my desktop had some sort of virus today and I managed to fix it with a system restore. However, the external drive I had plugged in isn't showing any files in it anymore. When I go to properties it says that 300 gigs are being used so im guessing the files are still in there. How can I recover the files?? Thanks for the help.
 

Ashhong

Member
I got a photoshop question, hope thats OK. Can anyone help me out with this BS thats been happening for a while now?



Notice the color difference. That brown tinge is only visible in PS and goes away when I save and load the picture anywhere else, like windows, Chrome, you name it. I dont get it.
 

Jzero

Member
I got a photoshop question, hope thats OK. Can anyone help me out with this BS thats been happening for a while now?

[url]http://i.imgur.com/DvXvn.jpg[/url]

Notice the color difference. That brown tinge is only visible in PS and goes away when I save and load the picture anywhere else, like windows, Chrome, you name it. I dont get it.
i searched on google and found that it may be your monitor drivers, even though it sounds weird since everything would be brown but you might as well try reinstalling your monitor driver anyway. It's never happened to my photoshop so yea.
 

Ashhong

Member
i searched on google and found that it may be your monitor drivers, even though it sounds weird since everything would be brown but you might as well try reinstalling your monitor driver anyway. It's never happened to my photoshop so yea.

I just found out its a setting on PS. I go to View -> Proof Setup -> Monitor RGB and it goes to normal. Problem is that I have to press it everytime I load a picture. Can't seem to make it default...
 

Jzero

Member
I just found out its a setting on PS. I go to View -> Proof Setup -> Monitor RGB and it goes to normal. Problem is that I have to press it everytime I load a picture. Can't seem to make it default...
nevermind. couldn't find anything else on it.
 

Fatalah

Member
I just bought a new laptop, and it's my first that doesn't come with a Windows installation disc.

Does Microsoft provide a way to download and burn a clean Windows 7 disc? Perhaps by using the laptop OEM's Windows ID number?

Also: I bought a hard copy of Windows 7 when it came out. Can I use that disc with the OEM Windows serial number of my new laptop?
 

Jzero

Member
I just bought a new laptop, and it's my first that doesn't come with a Windows installation disc.

Does Microsoft provide a way to download and burn a clean Windows 7 disc? Perhaps by using the laptop OEM's Windows ID number?
You have to dowload the OEM ISO from somewhere on the internet and then you can burn it to a disk or make a bootable flash drive. I would usually download the iso's from http://www.mydigitallife.info/ but the site seems to be broken.

Thanks for trying
i would still re download the drivers for your monitor since the only person that was able to solve their problem did that.
 

Ashhong

Member
Tried it, didnt fix it. Weird because that "Monitor RGB" option is checked when I load PS, but when I click on it again anyway, it fixes the color. Guess I'll just be pressing it every time.
 

GorillaJu

Member
I just found out its a setting on PS. I go to View -> Proof Setup -> Monitor RGB and it goes to normal. Problem is that I have to press it everytime I load a picture. Can't seem to make it default...

You can make it default, but I wouldn't.

It's a color profile thing and has nothing to do with monitor drivers. Basically, Photoshop is displaying a color profile with a large color depth that is ideal for editing photography and represents a closer match to what you will get out of a printer or in the camera RAW
Data. Your browsers don't attempt to use a special color profile, so it'll just display it in a standardized RGB.

If you save the file with the same color profile you used in Photoshop, your browser will show it correctly. This isn't an issue of Photoshop displaying it incorrectly. PS is giving you a better color range than Chrome/Firefox is to help make the most color accurate photos.

For best results, edit the photo in a color profile that is optimized for the web and save it with that profile embedded (should be an option in the Save As or Save for Web dialog boxes.) That way you have an image that is going to be consistent across all computers that view it (relative to that computer's monitor setting. There is a right and a wrong color calibration, and most people's monitors are poorly calibrated, do it'll never reach perfect consistency). If you choose to print it, you should edit it in a profile that is optimized for photo printing, then convert it to the color profile for your printer and paper combination (available from printer and paper manufacturers) before printing.
 

Ashhong

Member
You can make it default, but I wouldn't.

It's a color profile thing and has nothing to do with monitor drivers. Basically, Photoshop is displaying a color profile with a large color depth that is ideal for editing photography and represents a closer match to what you will get out of a printer or in the camera RAW
Data. Your browsers don't attempt to use a special color profile, so it'll just display it in a standardized RGB.

If you save the file with the same color profile you used in Photoshop, your browser will show it correctly. This isn't an issue of Photoshop displaying it incorrectly. PS is giving you a better color range than Chrome/Firefox is to help make the most color accurate photos.

For best results, edit the photo in a color profile that is optimized for the web and save it with that profile embedded (should be an option in the Save As or Save for Web dialog boxes.) That way you have an image that is going to be consistent across all computers that view it (relative to that computer's monitor setting. There is a right and a wrong color calibration, and most people's monitors are poorly calibrated, do it'll never reach perfect consistency). If you choose to print it, you should edit it in a profile that is optimized for photo printing, then convert it to the color profile for your printer and paper combination (available from printer and paper manufacturers) before printing.

Damn man, I definitely appreciate the help but I don't understand what you're saying lol. I mean I kind of do, but it doesn't make sense why it's that way. The thing is, I never see that brown tinge anywhere. I can load it on a bunch of other computers and it will look great. If I printed it, I wouldn't see the brown either. I have printed several pictures before that looked weird on PS, only to come out in completely different colors.

I just want PS to show me what everyone else sees :(

Are you referring to the mydigitallife forums? My new laptop is an ASUS -- I can use any ASUS Windows OEM ISO?

Do you have the product key under your laptop on a little sticker or anything?
 

GorillaJu

Member
I see. In your case it does sound like Photoshop is showing you a different color profile which is giving it the brown tinge.

Generally the issue people have is that Photoshop displays the correct colors, but they don't know to save their image with the color profile embedded, thus other software displays the incorrect colors

In your case it looks like Photoshop is displaying your images through an additional color profile, "filtering" it in a sense. This is normally used for printing - for example it you're using a third party to print a magazine or poster, you will get the color profile (a .icc file) from the printer and use that to see in advance how the image will come out when printed.

Somehow or another your profile settings were modified, maybe third party software messed with your profiles? Never had this problem but I dont use Windows when I'm designing or editing. Maybe a clean reinstall will do the trick. :)
 

Jzero

Member
Are you referring to the mydigitallife forums? My new laptop is an ASUS -- I can use any ASUS Windows OEM ISO?
You have to use the iso for the particular version of windows that you have, so for instance if you have windows 7 professional 64 bit then you download the Windows 7 professional 64 bit OEM .iso it has to be the OEM iso though or your key won't work.
 

Ashhong

Member
I see. In your case it does sound like Photoshop is showing you a different color profile which is giving it the brown tinge.

Generally the issue people have is that Photoshop displays the correct colors, but they don't know to save their image with the color profile embedded, thus other software displays the incorrect colors

In your case it looks like Photoshop is displaying your images through an additional color profile, "filtering" it in a sense. This is normally used for printing - for example it you're using a third party to print a magazine or poster, you will get the color profile (a .icc file) from the printer and use that to see in advance how the image will come out when printed.

Somehow or another your profile settings were modified, maybe third party software messed with your profiles? Never had this problem but I dont use Windows when I'm designing or editing. Maybe a clean reinstall will do the trick. :)

Thanks for the info. I will have to try a clean reinstall sometime. It's been like this for the past couple of PS versions, but I have always done an upgrade I believe and not a complete reinstall.
 

DarkFlow

Banned
2nfFB.jpg


my computer has been buggy for a while. i think it's the 8gb ram i got last month. firefox crashes randomly. and yesterday i start getting BSOD. like 8 times in two hours. So this morning i reinstalled windows7 x64. and I'm still getting BSOD.

I'm going to swap in my old memory to see if its the new memory. But jesus fucking christ. this is really fucking annoying. any suggestions?

ugh....

Yeah that's most likely your RAM. If you have more then one stick, take one out and see how it goes. Maybe you can narrow down what one it is.
 

Fatalah

Member
Do you have the product key under your laptop on a little sticker or anything?

Yes, the Windows OEM serial number is at the bottom of the laptop.

You have to use the iso for the particular version of windows that you have, so for instance if you have windows 7 professional 64 bit then you download the Windows 7 professional 64 bit OEM .iso it has to be the OEM iso though or your key won't work.

My new laptop (Asus) came installed with Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit. Where exactly can I find this OEM iso download in mydigitallife.com?
 
Userscripts are broken in YouTube on Firefox, the large player button doesn't work, and it only autoplays HD in fullscreen. I've cleared my cookies and cache and it's still broken.
 
Hey guys, my desktop had some sort of virus today and I managed to fix it with a system restore. However, the external drive I had plugged in isn't showing any files in it anymore. When I go to properties it says that 300 gigs are being used so im guessing the files are still in there. How can I recover the files?? Thanks for the help.

I tried using some data recovery software called Recuva but all it came up with were some files I deleted previously :/ Any help?
 

Jzero

Member
I tried using some data recovery software called Recuva but all it came up with were some files I deleted previously :/ Any help?
Yea Recuva is not the best at the moment, you should try using better software. Just remember not save anything or everything you save will over write the files you're trying to recover.
 
GAF! Need some SSD Installation Help

I bought an Intel 320 SSD, and I can't figure out what I need to do for the power.

I got the SATA data cables connected.

For power, the cable I have looks like this (but from Foxxconn):
SATA-Power-Cable-1.jpg


I get the black part connected to the back of SSD, but the white cable doesn't go in anywhere in the motherboard or PC that I can find. But I see other cables sticking out with end points similar to the black part above.

I bought an adapter from Amazon but that ended up being the exact same cable so it was of no use.

Any idea on what I need to buy to get the SSD powered up?

Here are cable ends I see sticking out in the PC:

jenj6N8z0KVHK.jpg

jfXf37FI7LCvs.jpg
 

linkboy

Member
Uber dumb question time.

I just got this drive for my wife's computer

Lite-On Blu-Ray drive

Its an OEM drive, so it didn't come with any cables. Here's the uber dumb question, what cables do I need. I know its a SATA cable, but I really don't have much experience with SATA, so I don't know what cable to use.

Thanks.
 

Jzero

Member
GAF! Need some SSD Installation Help

I bought an Intel 320 SSD, and I can't figure out what I need to do for the power.

I got the SATA data cables connected.

For power, the cable I have looks like this (but from Foxxconn):
http://www.sierra-cables.com/Cables/Images/SATA-Power-Cable-1.jpg

I get the black part connected to the back of SSD, but the white cable doesn't go in anywhere in the motherboard or PC that I can find. But I see other cables sticking out with end points similar to the black part above.

I bought an adapter from Amazon but that ended up being the exact same cable so it was of no use.

Any idea on what I need to buy to get the SSD powered up?

Here are cable ends I see sticking out in the PC:

http://k.minus.com/jenj6N8z0KVHK.jpg
http://k.minus.com/jfXf37FI7LCvs.jpg
The white part goes into a molex connector from your power supply.
Your power supply already has Sata power connectors (the black ones) just connect one into the ssd and then plug in the data sata connector to the ssd as well like so:

you don't need that adapter.

Uber dumb question time.

I just got this drive for my wife's computer

Lite-On Blu-Ray drive

Its an OEM drive, so it didn't come with any cables. Here's the uber dumb question, what cables do I need. I know its a SATA cable, but I really don't have much experience with SATA, so I don't know what cable to use.

Thanks.
Any sata data cable should do like this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812270093


M2PKH.jpg
 
The white part goes into a molex connector from your power supply.
Your power supply already has Sata power connectors (the black ones) just connect one into the ssd and then plug in the data sata connector to the ssd as well like so:

you don't need that adapter.
M2PKH.jpg

Ok, thanks, the problem is the power cables are tight and might not reach the SSD. Is there any cable I can buy to connect the two?
 

Jzero

Member
Ok, thanks, the problem is the power cables are tight and might not reach the SSD. Is there any cable I can buy to connect the two?
Yes you could either use the adapter you already have and connect the white part to a molex connector which looks like this. All power supplies should have at least one.
http://i.imgur.com/ycAwF.jpg

or buy a sata power extender like this one so you can utilize the tight cables from your power supply.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812189190
 
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